Tag Archive: Spain


Museo Cerralbo (Madrid)


It used to be a private mansion, though it looks more like a palace to me. Its former owner, the Marquis of Cerralbo,  was a patron of the arts as his collections obviously show.  The Museum opened in 1944 and can be found a few meters from the corner of Calle Bailén/Calle Ferraz and Calle Ventura Rodriguez, 17, in Madrid. If you are in the area visiting Plaza de España and Templo de Debod, it’s a good pitstop (from the cold or all that sun) before proceeding towards Calle Bailén to view the Palacio Real or Royal Palace and Almudena Cathedral. 

 

 

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Museo Cerralbo is along Calle Ventura Rodriguez, 17, just off Plaza de españa and Templo de Debod.

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Frankly, the staircase and interiors of museo cerralbo intimidate me. But then again, a Marquis lived here!

 

 

From Plaza de España, I was walking towards Templo de Debod along Calle Bailen growing into Calle Ferraz, when I was tempted to take a right turn in Calle Ventura Rodriguez upon seeing the marker towards Museo Cerralbo. I joined many locals, including young students, when I got there, and felt like i was the only tourist.  First off upon entry, the ornately decorated staircase and walls with many prized and large paintings —- like they were running out of space —- simply floored me.  Whoa, some treasure here! 

 

 

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This Salon must be their equivalent of a living room? Look at that ceiling!

 

 

It makes for a good break after visiting the “BIG 3” in the Paseo del Prado. Of course you can’t miss the Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen-Bornemisza Museums.  But what I love about small museums is that they’re “manageable”, won’t overwhelm, and best of all….they are  mostly former residences of the collector or artist himself!  Another museum, Museo Sorolla, ranks high among my favorites as the museo gives a glimpse of how the artist Sorolla lived and painted during his life.  As for Museo Cerralbo, here is one example of how the aristocrats lived then. Their mansions have huge salons fit for parties and their dining halls are meant for banquets. Adorning the walls is an impressive spread of their art collections. I can imagine them aristocrats taking a “stroll” along these corridors, pausing here and there, appreciating the many art pieces. 

 

 

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St. Joseph and the Child Jesus. Quite a takeoff from the usual Madonna and Child.

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The marker says it is one of many versions done by Girolamo Muziano (1580-1590)

 

 

The first oil painting is NOT attributed to any artist. Yes, it’s ANONYMOUS.  The marker says it was sourced from  an Italian School,  done presumably by one of its art students who drew inspiration from a Madonna and Child painting by Guido Reni, a master from a school in Bologna. This anonymous piece of art got my attention.  I love art themed on the Madonna and Child.  EXCEPT that this is NOT your usual Madonna & Child. Rather, it’s Saint Joseph with the Child Jesus. The second oil on canvas is done by Girolamo Muziano, the same 16th-century painter who did the same versions in at least 3 more Italian churches including the Saint Peter’s Basilica.

 

 

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This one is from the Spanish School where works are mainly religious paintings.

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A very intimidating corridor, fit for royalty.


 

Having actually lived here, the Mansion has its living, dining and sleeping quarters. Mind you though, they are far from the ordinary or standard quarters. I bet the Marquis did a lot of entertaining. After all, what are all those conversation pieces for? The collection could have covered conversations good for a month or longer! Besides, many royal guests from the nearby Palacio Real or Royal Palace must have whiled away some time here in the Mansion. Imagine them walking along the corridors, pausing for a break in the huge salon, or dining in the banquet room.

 

 

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The Banquet Room in Museo Cerralbo.

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Too many conversation pieces inside Museo Cerralbo 🙂

 

 

For all its grandeur though, I am perplexed how or why the Marquis chose to keep his bedroom so modest. It just doesn’t add up. Maybe sleeping or resting ranks low in his priorities? Check out the last photo here and tell me what you think. 😉

 

 

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Yes, he’s the man. Don Enrique de Aguilera y Gamboa, 17th Marquis of Cerralbo.

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Would you believe this is the royal bedroom of the Marquis?

Now compare that with one of his offices……..

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It was one of Rizal’s favorite haunts in Madrid. A “hangout”, if you like, with fellow patriots, to enjoy tapas y vino. And how convenient that it is just a few meters away from his apartment and 3 other hangouts: Teatro Español, Hotel Ingles and Los Gabrielles, another hangout famous for its azulejos or glazed tiles. Viva Madrid is in the heart of Madrid’s historic center along Calle de Manuel Fernandez y Gonzales, 7. Not too far from Puerto del Sol and just a stonesthrow from Plaza Santa Ana, this restaurante is quite a looker from outside with its murals, and even better-looking inside. The warm interiors match the friendly service and delicious food. This place is good for both dining, people-watching or simply basking in “Rizal’s life in Madrid”.

 

 

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Viva Madrid in Calle de Manuel Fernandez y Gonzales, 7.

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Imagine Rizal enjoying his vino y tapas here.

 

 

The rioja y tapas were a perfect prelude to the blackest, inkiest, most flavorful paella negra to be had in Madrid. Very negra indeed. And muy delicioso,especially with generous servings of salsa alioli. Thanks to Jaime Marco, the go-to guy for Rizal’s Madrid, for bringing me here. Jaime is not only a Filipino historian and Rizal expert but a foodie through and through. Dining in Viva Madrid combines the best of both worlds: food and history. 😉  

 

 

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Jamon y Salmon…. Con Brie.

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Piece de Resistance. Paella Negra.

 

 

How fortunate that Viva Madrid exists to this day. Not like nearby Los Gabrielles, which has closed. Every Filipino visiting Madrid should dine here. Just be warned that the food may distract you from appreciating the lovely interiors of Viva Madrid. The same glazed ceramic tiles adorn the interior walls, framed by columns and dark wood panels. Imagine our national hero sitting in a quiet corner here, enjoying his light meals and vino. Imagine many of our propagandists whiling away their time here while discussing what gets printed on La Solidaridad.

 

 

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Lovely Interiors. Then, as in Now.

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Rizal’s Corner.

 

 

When you get here, do ask for Rizal’s corner. Jaime says it’s the one near the 2 columns. Check out the 6th photo. And on your way out, check out the Rizal marker. Doesn’t that make you proud?

 

 

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Good for family dining too!


Earlier, I blogged about my ‘food trip’ while spending nearly 3 months based in Madrid, Spain. If you’ve been following my blogs, you won’t be surprised to know that food is an essential part of all my travels. In that earlier blog (Eating Around Spain), I rattled on and on over Spanish paella, cochinillo, boquerones y rabo de toro. I have reminded many of my friends never to miss Mercado de San Miguel near Plaza Mayor which just happened to be one of my “happy places” while in Madrid. Obviously, I have gained more favoritos in my first 2 weeks here and now feel compelled to make these additions.

 

 

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Best Cocido Madrileño. Only in La Gran Tasca in Calle Santa Engracia near cuatro caminos.

 

 

While cocido madrileño is traditionally a winter dish, it is mercifully available yearround, so don’t fret. Try it in what claims to be the best cocido in Madrid. La Gran Tasca Ristorante. You won’t miss it. Just take the metro (2) line and get off at Rios Rosas and walk along Calle Santa engracia towards Cuatro Caminos. It should be on your left side. For more details, just click on the link.

 

 

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Pricier as it is trendier. Love the anchoas del cantabrico here in mercado de san anton.

 

 

Filipino historian and Rizal expert Jaime Marco gave me a “Rizal’s Madrid” tour here, as well as introduced me to such delightful dining places I missed the last few trips. I soooo love Mercado de San Miguel near Plaza Mayor. Love the vibe, even the crowds. But if you really want to eat, claim a stool, leisurely sip your cortado or cafe con leche, and savor quality deli food, go to Mercado de San Anton in the chueca neighborhood just off Gran Via. You’d know what i mean when you get there. For details and directions, just click on this link. Buen Provecho!


Food is an integral part of my travels and yes, you may say food defines many of my adventures. The passion to search for certain kinds of food is serious business. Going to great lengths for a food particular to the area builds the excitement as much as checking out the local attractions. So, here’s a compilation. It is a living, breathing list as I intend to add more as I get busy celebrating life. A few inches more on the waist, on the hips won’t hurt 🙂

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EATING AROUND THE PHILIPPINES

It all starts at home. While the Philippines has national dishes like adobo, sinigang, Kare Kare and lechon, there are regional cuisines that are must-try eats. Check these out.

Philippine Cuisine

Regional Cuisine: Northern Philippines

What and Where to Eat in Laoag and Vigan

As Spicy As It Gets in Bicol

What To Eat In Batanes

Eating Frogs and Crickets From the Philippines’ Culinary Capital

DINING101 in AFRICA

Boma Dinner and the Exotic Meats of Africa

South African Cuisine

BUEN PROVECHO EN ESPAÑA!

Eating Around Spain

Best Churros Con Chocolate

FOOD PORN IN BANGKOK

EATING AROUND BHUTAN

PHÔ & MORE IN HO CHI MINH

BEYOND NASI GORENG IN INDONESIA

FOOD COMA IN KOREA

SUBJECT TO ADDITIONS, NO DELETIONS.


A perfect day. Gaudi surrounds. Gaudi abounds in the city. You see it. You smell it. You almost taste it. Casa Batlló, Casa Mila, Parc Güell, Sagrada Familia. There’s more. A Gaudi overload.

 

 

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Rooftop. Casa Batllo. Barcelona.

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Parc Guell. Barcelona.

 

 

It should have been a perfect day for my girls. Barcelona does not disappoint. Gaudi overwhelms, but you can break the sensory overload with a visit to the Black Madonna. Such a trip to Montserrat is both a pilgrimage and a bonus adventure.

 

 

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Interior Shot. Montserrat Basilica.

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Montserrat.

 

 

My girls must have been so carried away with the “serrated” (thus MontSERRAT) mountain scene that they’ve lost track of time. The line to see the Black Madonna up close, the aisle view from the top, the lighted candles in varied colors, the cold breeze — all these add to the spirituality of the shrine.

 

 

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The Black Madonna.

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Lost in time. Wrapped in their thermals. The last funicular just left and my girls must be lighting more candles, whispering their prayers.

 

 

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Twilight in Montserrat.

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Just one option left to return to the city. A downhill hike. An hour in the cold with only the serrated mountains as company. Stony buddies.

 

 

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Well, they got back well before dinner. Huffing and Puffing. And darn COLD. 🙂


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Here is a summary of the day trips I took while based in Madrid last year (2012). Thought it would be easier to check out which blog interests you by giving you this list. Just click away!

Avila

Saint Therese of Avila

Segovia: Home of Cochinillo

El Escorial: Not Just Another Gravesite

Valle De Los Caidos: El Hombre Generalissimo Franco

La Segunda Vez En Sevilla

Semana Santa In Cordoba

Eating Around Spain : In Madrid and Elsewhere

An Easy Day Trip to Toledo

Early Start To Valencia, Spain

Do-It-Yourself Trip to Aranjuez

Barcelona

Montserrat in Barcelona

Las Ramblas In Barcelona: What’s All The Hype?

Alcala de Henares: A Pleasant Surprise


 

Four months. Four Countries. November 2011 through February 2012. Extended till May 2012. Vietnam. Thailand . Bhutan. Spain. Each country a delight to visit. Each country with its own distinct, unique cuisine. The languages compete with the culinary delights to render you “tongue-twisted”.

 

 

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It lasted about a week each in Vietnam and Bhutan. And some 4 nights in Bangkok, Thailand. Then all of 10 weeks in Spain. My taste buds were never as confused as they were in the last 4-6 months. But if this is what confusion means, I wouldn’t mind being in that state for a prolonged period. 😊😍😘

 

 

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Vietnamese cuisine tastes “clean” and subtle. Happily combining Asian flavors with French mastery of the kitchen, the dishes are beautifully plated even if purchased off a corner stall in the market. Besides, Vietnamese dishes are more veggies than meats which lessen one’s guilt but not the pleasure. The same aesthetic value can be said of Thai dishes. The vibrant colors combine so well in every single plate or tray whether they are vegetables, fruits or meats. And the sauces! Each single dish presents a variety of options by way of sauces. Major decisions!

 

 

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The food in Bhutan is an altogether different story. There isn’t much by way of meat choices unless you are craving for yak burgers. Vegetarians would have a field day here in this Himalayan kingdom but the spices are just too much for my liking. But I like their mountain rice and the simplicity of their vegetable dumplings and soups.

 

 

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Aroused by the flavors of the Orient , my taste buds were ready to be assaulted by the varied, meaty, cheesy, olive-oily dishes of Spain. From the very beginning, I knew 10 weeks won’t be long enough to try all 500 or so bacalao dishes. But really, I can’t complain.

 

 

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We tried and compared the churros con chocolate from Chocolateria De San Gines and Valor, we sampled the croquetas and quezos in Mercado de San Miguel, we dined in 101 Tapas in Andalucia, traveled to Valencia for their authentic and original paella, ate not once but twice in Segovia for that cochinillo we’ve dreamed about, relished the morcilla from Burgos and the Leche flan and crema de Catalan of Barcelona.

 

 

So, after 4-6 months….. What do you think am I craving for? Sure I miss those Vietnamese rolls, the pad Thai, momos, Jamon y Quezos . But nothing beats food from home. I shamelessly requested a good friend to cook my favorite pancit, ordered halo-halo in the middle of a board meeting, drove all the way to Binondo for my lumpia and quikiam fix, waited mornings for the taho vendor, emptied my dish of dinuguan and puto in record time, and to this day, still dreaming of bibingka with kesong Puti and my favorite seagrapes (Lato) salad. Pinoy food rocks! 😝

 

 

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This is a Phlog. That’s short for Photo Blog. Here goes. My life in Madrid in Phlog.

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Live like it’s the last day of your life? Naaah. If that’s my mantra, I’d likely just stay home and spend time with family. Or pray in a convent or church.

 

I live like there are many days ahead to celebrate life. I go to the Prado and take in just a few. Knowing there would be other days to enjoy more. Leisurely. No rush. I visit Barcelona for a weekend thinking there would be many more weekends to spend there. I love visiting and revisiting places I enjoyed. That explains why I take photos in the exact same places where I had my photos taken years ago. The unwanted pounds. The unwanted lines and wrinkles. Little reminders of time past. Who cares? I’m enjoying life. Without the rush.

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It’s not that I recommend it, but more than a few times I find myself buying a ticket from a vending machine to catch a train departing in less than 5 minutes. Imagine the thrill of brisk walking to the escalators, down to the ramps or platform, and hearing the train doors close behind you after having just hopped in.

 

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And how about the excitement of reaching your destination? No matter how much you’ve read up on the place, I like the momentary ignorance and madness of deciding which way to go out of the train or bus station. Do I turn right, left or go straight? When I went to Aranjuez, I wondered whether I’m getting off in the middle of a forest. That’s how it looked just before the train stopped and I heard the announcement that we have reached Aranjuez. I walked for about 10 minutes to reach the Royal Palace and Gardens. No one to ask as most others who got off the train took the bus or were fetched by friends or relatives. It would feel the same way going to Valle de Los Caidos, except that most bus passengers are likely tourists like you too.

 

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Fortunately, Spain has a superb transport system. The Metro, regional trains, fast trains, buses are all so easy to deal with. And clean! I also found the Spanish very friendly and helpful. Once, there was this middle-aged lady who actually walked with me for some blocks till the last corner just before my destination. In Alcala de Henares, the young students tried to be very precise with their directions (a plaza or square lined with plane trees, a building with many columns, a house with bronze statues and a fountain, etc).

 

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It helps that google allows me to do virtual tours and obtain directions. While I do get maps and check out the attractions in each place, I always seek to get images of the palaces, museums, parks or whatever else I intend to visit. This allows me to easily “spot” the sites I intend to visit.

 

 

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What I love about traveling solo is I get to linger longer in places I like, and eat whenever it suits me. The only drawback is that I don’t get to eat all I like. I mean, you can only order so much for yourself, right? No one to share with. My routine is normally to eat small portions but more often, so I get a variety of the foods I’d like to try without appearing like a glutton.

 

 

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Good research, with lots of allowances for spontaneity, and a good pair of walking shoes. Or boots to keep those walking legs warm when the temp drops. This is important. No way I’m walking anywhere unless I have comfortable footwear. Many make this mistake of looking fashionable rather than comfortable. Trust me, they are not mutually exclusive.

 

 

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So who says you’re too old to travel solo? I have no talent in the kitchen. Just survival cooking for moí. I’m pretty neat at home but it’s not like I enjoy domestic chores. I love to read, but my pocketbooks travel with me. A bench in the park and a cup of good brew make perfect companions. I get my adrenaline rush chasing trains, snapping photos and eating local delicacies. When I am home, I am more likely doing my “research” or blogging rather than busy with my knitting needles. C’est la vie! 😉😉😉

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Why ever not? Stayed away from my beloved pig for some weeks since Segovia. Time to have that memorable moment to savor before going home to Manila.

 

 

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Casa Botin or Sobrinos de Botin is in the Guinness Book of Records as the OLDEST RESTAURANT in continuous operation in the world. Established in 1725, its claim to fame is even bolstered by an endorsement from no less than Ernest Hemingway who once said the place serves the best cochinillo. Like Hemingway, many Spanish and Western authors have been lured to this place and actually had the restaurant as setting in their novels.

 

 

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Be warned though. The place is a tourist trap. Make sure you have reservations. Decide whether you’re having the suckling pig or the suckling lamb. Both are good. And if you’re a party of say 4pax, you can actually share a couple of cochinillo and an order of Cordero. Tell the waiter you are sharing and they’d take care of splitting the 3 orders into 4 platefuls of the coveted meat. Then share a pitcher of sangria or a bottle of house wine. No sense ordering the set menu of €43 per pax when the included dessert is just some dollop of ice cream. And if you’re skipping dessert, you might as well order the morcilla from Burgos for appetizers, if you like.

 

 

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After your Botin dinner, walk off all that cholesterol to the Mercado de San Miguel for errrrr…… more cholesterol. There’s a bounty of choices here. Nougats or turrones, crema de Catalan, meringues, yogurt, etc. And if by chance you’re able to work up an appetite other than for desserts, visit this TV guy named Senen and check out his tortilla española. Buen Provecho!

 

 

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