We were in luck. Even the driver who fetched us from the cruise terminal to whisk us to Girona was so excited we’d be around to witness the medieval city’s fiesta. Just some 100 kilometres from Barcelona, Girona celebrated its Fires de Sant Narcis. This fiesta runs till November 1 and features more than 200 public events like parades, concerts, Castells (human towers), craft and artisan markets, amusement rides, big heads (capgrossos) , gegants (giants), singing and dancing competitions. Imagine walking across one of so many bridges over the Riu Onyar or the narrow streets and alleys and meeting some senior or teenage drum and bugle bands. Just watching so many girl dads with bebes on their shoulders, little drummer boys in full costumes, and just street dancing is a delight!
The Onyar River splits Girona between the old historic town (Barri Vell) and on the West Bank, the modern city center. Our hotel is on the West Bank but just a few steps from the Pont de les Peixateries Velles, loosely translated to the Old Fish Market bridge. But it is more popularly called the Eiffel Bridge because it was designed by the same fellow who built that iconic tower in Paris. Trivia: Gustav Eiffel built this beautiful red lattice iron bridge BEFORE he constructed Eiffel Tower. The houses lining the river are tightly packed and come in traditional vibrant hues of yellow, ochre and red. Girona also celebrates another Catalan architect — Rafael Maso — who prescribed the now iconic color scheme for these “hanging houses”.
For a while I wondered if I liked Girona because we timed our visit perfectly with the opening or start of the fires or fair. But nah. Girona is truly a gem. It is compact, so easy to navigate, very charming. The shopping and dining scene is fab and the city is so rich in history and culture. The Roca Brothers gave Girona more prominence when their restaurant claimed the world’s top spot. And now, the same brothers made exquisite dining more casual with their new restaurant and tapas bars that are easier on the pocket. We tried their Vii, Tapes I Platillos located in Plaça Del Vi where the Fires de Sant Narcis commenced. How lovely (and convenient) to eat your croquetas and gulp your canya (a small draft beer) while the procession went underway.
Meandering around the Jewish Quarter in the Old Town is a must-do. It’s hard to get lost — or rather, it’s easy to get lost but one just as easily finds his way back by simply walking towards the river and crossing any of the bridges. The Cathedral is a beauty and the Sunday Mass organ music is heavenly. After the cathedral visit, you can start walking, shopping and stopping every so often for bites to eat. There’s the 2 other more casual Roca brothers-owned Bar Normal and Ristorante Normal. Very intimate dining spots. Good food. And there’s Espresso Mafia for gooooood coffee to dip under historic stone arches. Right beside it is La Xurreria for yummy churros con chocolate and soft dough xuixos filled with cream that looks as sinful as it tastes. If all that still doesn’t satisfy, there’s a nearby basque tapas bar on the same street called Zanpansar. In these tapas bars, you just order your txacoli or canya, grab some tapas plates. Payment system is via counting the skewers on your plate. Swell!
