We were in luck. Even the driver who fetched us from the cruise terminal to whisk us to Girona was so excited we’d be around to witness the medieval city’s fiesta. Just some 100 kilometres from Barcelona, Girona celebrated its Fires de Sant Narcis. This fiesta runs till November 1 and features more than 200 public events like parades, concerts, Castells (human towers), craft and artisan markets, amusement rides, big heads (capgrossos) , gegants (giants), singing and dancing competitions. Imagine walking across one of so many bridges over the Riu Onyar or the narrow streets and alleys and meeting some senior or teenage drum and bugle bands. Just watching so many girl dads with bebes on their shoulders, little drummer boys in full costumes, and just street dancing is a delight!
Gegants or Giants 📸 Gizelle
The Onyar River splits Girona between the old historic town (Barri Vell) and on the West Bank, the modern city center. Our hotel is on the West Bank but just a few steps from the Pont de les Peixateries Velles, loosely translated to the Old Fish Market bridge. But it is more popularly called the Eiffel Bridge because it was designed by the same fellow who built that iconic tower in Paris. Trivia: Gustav Eiffel built this beautiful red lattice iron bridge BEFORE he constructed Eiffel Tower. The houses lining the river are tightly packed and come in traditional vibrant hues of yellow, ochre and red. Girona also celebrates another Catalan architect — Rafael Maso — who prescribed the now iconic color scheme for these “hanging houses”.
For a while I wondered if I liked Girona because we timed our visit perfectly with the opening or start of the fires or fair. But nah. Girona is truly a gem. It is compact, so easy to navigate, very charming. The shopping and dining scene is fab and the city is so rich in history and culture. The Roca Brothers gave Girona more prominence when their restaurant claimed the world’s top spot. And now, the same brothers made exquisite dining more casual with their new restaurant and tapas bars that are easier on the pocket. We tried their Vii, Tapes I Platillos located in Plaça Del Vi where the Fires de Sant Narcis commenced. How lovely (and convenient) to eat your croquetas and gulp your canya (a small draft beer) while the procession went underway.
Who watched Game of Thrones? Inside the Girona Cathedral
Meandering around the Jewish Quarter in the Old Town is a must-do. It’s hard to get lost — or rather, it’s easy to get lost but one just as easily finds his way back by simply walking towards the river and crossing any of the bridges. The Cathedral is a beauty and the Sunday Mass organ music is heavenly. After the cathedral visit, you can start walking, shopping and stopping every so often for bites to eat. There’s the 2 other more casual Roca brothers-owned Bar Normal and Ristorante Normal. Very intimate dining spots. Good food. And there’s Espresso Mafia for gooooood coffee to dip under historic stone arches. Right beside it is La Xurreria for yummy churros con chocolate and soft dough xuixos filled with cream that looks as sinful as it tastes. If all that still doesn’t satisfy, there’s a nearby basque tapas bar on the same street called Zanpansar. In these tapas bars, you just order your txacoli or canya, grab some tapas plates. Payment system is via counting the skewers on your plate. Swell!
Bar Normal is my kind of place. My sweet tooth isn’t complaining.
Now, crossing the Onyar River presents some good prospects. There was a bridge lined with artisan shops so good luck to you as you cross the street 🤣 Plaça Independencia is a square framed by charming buildings housing cafes, bars and restaurants. We tried the Casa Marieta and lucky to earn a reservation one night here. That duck in pear sauce and chicken with shrimp were sooo good. Some of us found the Mercat but the day we tried, it was closed. Instead, we lingered in an amusement park we passed. There were rides, and there were street food. It’s a fair after all! The chestnut stalls are hard to resist. And the gelato? Why ever not? 😋
I was here not too long ago so I’d likely skip many must-do’s like the Sagrada Família, Casa Batlló, Casa Mila, Park Güell, Palau de Musica Catalana, Ciutadella Parque, even the Barceloneta. But I need a repeat of La Boqueria and the many dining spots around here. They say food is an integral part of one’s travels but I’m beginning to think u travel for the food. 🤣 Especially Spanish food! From desayunos to almuerzos and unforgettable dinners, España ranks up there in my book. From cafe cortado to churros con chocolate, from paellas to fideuas, from ham to jamones and many more.
La BoqueriaThis is lunch. An assortment of seafood from sea bream, prawns, navajas, salmon, clams, mussels etc
From Barcelona Cathedral to Santa Maria Del Pi and Del Mar, we’ve had our hours of prayers in these majestic Iglesias. All within walking distance from our hotel in Barrio Gotic, the birthplace of Joan Miro. Just off the corner, there was Antic Tapas de Ferran where we had our first Catalan almuerzo of pulpo, paella, gambas, anchoas, and my favorite pimientos de padron! Completed the day with postres (desserts) of crema catalan y gelato in Plaça Reial where people watching is par for the course. Que sabroso!
Lunch in Carrer Ferran, Barrio GoticPostres en Plaça Reial in Barrio Gotic
While we took eating real seriously, we paid equally serious attention to Catalan art and made it to Fundacio Joan Miro, Moco Museum and Picasso Museum. Fundacio Miro is a half hour Bus 55 ride from Plaça Catalonia to Montjuic Hill. The 2 museos in El Born is just a short walking distance from our Barrio Gotic crib. Did my souvenir shopping in the museos’ tiendas. That walk also meant passing this superb tortilla place called El Xampanyet recommended by our friend D. It has been around for nearly a century — since 1929. It’s a hole in the wall but long lines are the norm. We found a corner table near the tiny kitchen manned by a huge stocky Catalan who moved and cooked the tortillas so briskly it’s almost a spectacle. I also enjoyed a good tinto de verano here. Still good as it feels summery here than autumn-ish. Yes, at 24C!
Best tortilla in my book. El Xampanyet in El Born. The collections from Fundacio Joan Miro
We’d be returning to Barcelona after our Mediterranean cruise so we’re not exactly in a rush to hit the Catalan attractions here. But the nearby Santa Maria del Pi has an ongoing exhibit — some art installations depicting “Childhood in Exile” and dwelt on sad and broken feelings of isolation and sufferings. Too heavy and I must say depressing. Before long, we stepped out of the Iglesia and walked towards Plaça Reial in search of an oyster place.
I’m not a shopper but there were good finds in Moco Museum Shop“Childhood in Exile. Sacred Childhood”
Well, the oyster place wasn’t exactly what we dreamed of. I mean the oysters were good (you can’t mess with fresh oysters, anyway) but everything else is meh — fish soup, fideuas, berenjenas (eggplant) and sea bream . Can’t win them all but the service in Quinze Nits likewise sucks. Not ever will we head back. And this serves as a good lesson — the Plaça Reial is right next to our hotel so it was no sweat walking easily to find a place for some seafood stew and oysters. But it’s a square for the tourists in the Barrio Gotic area who are too lazy (like me us that night) to search for dining spots with good reviews. One hard lesson.
Albondigas, “Chicharon” and more pimientos at El Rincon de las Tapas
So on our last day in Barcelona before boarding our boat for the Mediterranean cruise, we dined in Asador de Aranda. An absolutely special lunch of lechal (suckling lamb) and hake carpaccio. Soooo good. I completely ignored the ribeye steak and totally enjoyed my lamb lunch. Hits a spot, for sure. Our Barcelona (Part 1) adventure ended on the right note despite some mishaps. And we hope to fully enjoy the second episode after our cruise.
Look at these pictures. It’s not some Ku Klux clan rally or some costume party or some parade. This is a Good Friday procession in the heart of Seville, Spain. We stayed in Hotel Don Paco, and right in front of our hotel, some 4 to 5 processions must have passed. Carried on the shoulders of locals called “costaleros” , the pasos(religious statues) weaved through the narrow streets from almost all corners! Behind and in front of the pasos walked locals called “nazarenos” wearing capes as you’d see in these photos. Some are in white capes, others in purple, some in blue, and many others in black and green . From our hotel , we watched as all these processions emerged from all streets………..and seemed to merge in the plaza near the shopping center (Serpies). Not too far away, we found a St. Joseph’s chapel where we heard Good Friday mass . It was ironic that the streets outside were fully packed with crowds of all ages, and then find many vacant seats inside the church. Among the churchgoers were senior folks, young children obviously towed by their grandparents, and us. The other adults and young teens were all out in the streets watching the religious processions and then disappeared into the many tapas bars all around Sevilla. A bit sad about this, but then times have changed. Walking back to our hotel, we got stuck with more processions.
City Tour of Seville
The following morning, our local guide Carmen toured us around Seville, starting with Casa Pilatos which sadly pales in comparison with Alhambra. But of course. Yet it is not bad at all. Then there is the cathedral with the Giralda Tower which only happens to be the 3rd largest Gothic Cathedral and the biggest altar in the world after St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican , and St. Paul’s in London. The Cathedral also happens to be the resting place of Christopher Columbus. And then there is the Alcazar, the royal palace where Muslim taifa rulers and Christian monarchs including Pedro I (Peter the Cruel) lived. Before calling it a night, we went to watch a Flamenco Show in this place crowded by tourists of almost all nationalities. The ticket to the Patio Sevillano show already included a glass of diluted wine or some diluted juice. The show started with 4 female flamenco dancers, each one good. It was wonderful to watch the dancers’ agility with the fans, castanets or even their shawls! But the best was the solo performance of this male flamenco dancer who sweated through his routine. He stomped the floor like there was no tomorrow, he flipped his hands better than the women dancers, his back arched more than any other. That performance alone, makes it worth it. Such intensity!
A famous landmark in Seville is the Plaza Espana in Maria Luisa Park where they had the 1929 American – Iberian Exhibition marking 500 years since the time Christopher Columbus discovered America. Truly a panorama of tiled ballustrades, fountains, towers, etc. Most of the lovely buildings were converted into embassies. We took many of the photos on this spread in this park.
Lunch meant more tapas and a good paella. But we were finding it difficult to appreciate the paella here as we were not used to a very wet paella. Perhaps that is really how the Spaniards cook their paellas? Mind you, we have tried many while touring around Spain.
Here in Sevilla, it was not different. It was just as wet as the other paellas we have tried. But then, there were the many tapas to try. Jamon Iberico, quezo manchego, and those baby eels. Hmmm. Yummy.
Remember the opera “Carmen”? Our guide reminded us of this young maiden working in a tobacco factory where 6,000 other women worked, and which magnificent building now houses a college in Seville. This is very near the Sevilla Pavillion which by the way, now houses a casino. And here’s some trivia from our local guide: Lope de Vega, Cervantes and Shakespeare all died in the same year. Hmmm. Okay.
The next day, we left Sevilla soon after breakfast on our way to Lisbon, Portugal. Two hours into the ride, we reached the border. Before crossing, we stopped by this village where they make my favorite ham : Jamon Iberico de Jabugo. What makes it so special? Hogs used to make this ham are fed acorns! After this, you can forget Jamon Serrano.
Spain is one country certainly worth visiting. But if there is one area where we would choose to stay longer, that would be Sevilla. Tapas, flamenco, jamon jabugo. If you get lucky, you may even watch a bullfight.
Just a short, comfortable one hour drive from Madrid to reach this impressive city of 3 cultures. I have to admit that I had my expectations of Toledo, having seen too many paintings of the Spanish city. Yet, I was still awed by its sheer beauty. This place shouldn’t be missed, and should be in everybody’s list to visit after Madrid. Through many narrow alleyways, we passed many houses with Moorish balconies. These ‘extensions’ served as ‘peek out’ places for Muslim women staying indoors and preferring not to be seen. I can just imagine them sneaking a look into the vibrant street scene in Toledo’s narrow alleyways while fiddling with their worry beads.
The mixture of artistic styles speaks volumes on how Arabs, Christians and Jews once lived together in this former imperial capital. Much like the mixed settlements found in the walled city of Old Jerusalem ( check out my earlier blog: When Every Prayer Bead Counts in Israel). The maze of streets make up this city bound by walls and accessed through various gates. We entered through the main gate, the Bisagra Gate, and passed a number of synagogues, mosques and churches. The highlight of my trip to Toledo is easily the Church of Santo Tome , made famous by El Greco’s painting “El Entierro del Conde Orgaz” which translates to “The Burial of Count Orgaz”. By itself, this painting makes the trip to Toledo truly worthwhile. To this day, I can still imagine the many shades of black in this painting. El Greco is truly a genius. The sheer white organza over the black garment showed his genius to the fore. One can almost feel how thin and gossamer the organza fabric was. So with the lacy cloth adorning the necks of those depicted in the scene. El Greco lived out his sunset years in Toledo and truly paid homage to his second home as he immortalized the now famous vista of the entire township, the skyline dominated by the Alcazar and the Toledo Cathedral, and the many winding alleys and cobble-stoned pathways of this place so rich in history and steeped in culture.
Mudejar Style In Art and Architecture
All around the historic city, there is the mozarab (Christians who lived under the Muslim rule) and mudejar styles expressed in the art and architecture.
The arches, ornately designed windows , and other architectural elements envelop you as you walk their streets. While viewing Toledo’s famous cathedral, we saw many tourists shunted to the sides as cars weaved through the very narrow streets of this former capital of La Mancha, now declared a heritage site. (That is the 3rd time I used the word narrow). While waiting for the cars to pass, it was easy to get tempted to get inside some of the quaint looking stores selling mazapan and turrones. And so we allowed ourselves to be tempted and then and there, decided to leave space in our bags before flying home to load up on these goodies. While munching our new finds back into the square, we paused to take in the cathedral with its very flamboyant Gothic architecture. The doorway, with its 3 doors, depicted features of hell, forgiveness and judgment. It was reported that there was a time when indulgences were granted to penitents passing through the door of forgiveness or pardon. These days, it is almost always closed except for very special occasions.
A Hero’s Sorrow
On a hill to the right of the Cathedral isthe Alcazar, the military citadel. A most interesting story has been attached to this monument of art and heroism. The Siege of Alcazar recounts the heroism and supreme sacrifice in the name of patriotic duty of General Jose Moscardo Ituarte back in 1936. For 70 days, Moscardo held out for General Franco’s Nationalist forces and defended the citadel. The Republicans then captured Moscardo’s 16 year old son, Luis, and threatened to shoot him unless Moscardo cedes the citadel. Asking to speak to his son, Moscardo said “Commend yourself to God and die like a patriot” to which his teenage son replied “That, I can do”. Truly, Luis is his father’s son. Moscardo lost his son and up to his final days, wore a black cloak of mourning over his army uniform. The drama and the tragedy are now integral to any story relating to the cathedral.
Long after we left Toledo, we can’t help wondering if the religious tolerance accounted for the very diverse character of this heritage site. Imagine the very Gothic Toledo Cathedral with Mudejar characteristics (claimed to be the 3rd largest in the world), or houses lining the alleys with their Moorish balcony extensions over your heads as you pass, as well as imagining the interfaith harmony as Arabs, Jews and Christians all established their settlements here in this place where their respective arts and culture were allowed to flourish and blossom. The peace and harmony fostered by this religious tolerance may have encouraged many Arab, Jewish and Christian scholars to settle in Toledo and hone their crafts. Just like the Pax Romana where art and culture flourished, here is another example that indeed, “Peace Pays” .
I have been practicing my Spanish for a while………and felt confident enough to go around Spain just a month after my surgery. My doctor said I drive her crazy. My surgeon said I should go ahead and celebrate life. Between those 2 medical opinions, I favored my surgeon’s advice.
Long Trip to Madrid From Manila
With my nephew Ryll and good friend Emy in tow, we braved the long trip from manila to madrid. Left 5 pm Monday; arrived noon next day in Madrid. It was a long trip via Hongkong and Paris. And that is not counting the 3 hour wait in each airports! The Air France flights all went smoothly, and we actually enjoyed all the in-flight meals and movies.
Talking about first experience in good old Madrid……….we hired a cab as soon as we stepped out of the airport to take us to Hotel Praga where we would meet up with our travel group same day 6pm. The taxi driver was some hustler who reminded us so much of Mel Gibson with his unshaven moustache and beard. Senor Gibson overcharged us – we paid 50 euros for a cab ride that should have just cost us only 30 euros. He said it was the Spanish fiesta, as we arrived right on Fathers’ Day (which we later learned was the Feast Day of St. Joseph), and therefore there are extra cab charges. We did not bother arguing with him on our first hour on Spanish soil. By the time we reached Hotel Praga in Madrid, we were just too eager to wave him goodbye.
We met Roberto, our tour director from Cosmos, along with 48 (yes, 48) fellow travellers. A real big group which included 11 Filipinos including the 3 of us. There was this Filipino-Chinese family of 6 pax and a couple from Dallas, Texas who have not visited the Philippines for nearly 2 decades. The tour group also counted some Canadians, British, Australians, Mexicans, Americans. Mostly senior citizens except for the Canadian group made up of young Cornell University graduates, maybe in their mid 20’s. Emy and I roomed up, while Ryll roomed up with Douglas. After our meeting with the Tour Group, Ryll , Emy and I didn’t waste time and went to explore Madrid straight away. We took the bus from the hotel to reach Plaza Mayor.
Right smack in the middle of Puerta del Sol near Plaza Mayor is Kilometro 0 where 10 streets converge and where distances are all measured. There were so many people around. And so many pickpockets too! Too many shops, tascas, tapa bars. Except that the shops were all closed because , as Senor Gibson said, today is a holiday!
Long Walk For A Cup of Chocolate and Some Churros
Armed with our Lonely Planet travel book, we walked up to Calle de Preciados and found Iglesia de San Gines. No, we weren’t planning to go to church today. The LP book had the iglesia as landmark to find what was allegedly the best place for churros con chocolate. Mind you, the Chocolateria de San Gines has every right to boast it has the best churros in town. It was an experience just dunking those churros in that thick hot chocolate. While enjoying all this, we can’t help but notice this old man we assumed to be the owner of the chocolateria with his loyal dog by his side, seated at a corner table. He saw everyone in, and barked orders from his seat. We likewise assumed that the busboy , cashier and other servers must be his son and daughters. I told Ryll that i can see myself in that old man. Tucked into a corner with a loyal dog, reading a good pocketbook, sipping good chocolate or coffee, and barking orders without let up!
Energized by the hot choco and churros, we tried walking back to the Plaza Mayor to catch our bus back to the hotel, but instead ended walking along Calle de Alcala. It was the other way. No problem. The LP book said we should find the Plaza de la Cibeles and the Palacio de Communicaciones here. What a magnificent sight! And it is only their Post Office. The lights did justice to the ancient building, so we took turns having our photos taken here with all that illuminated background. We were sure the Goddess Cybele wouldn’t mind. We also found a church nearby, which happened to be St. Joseph’s Church. The Church was all darkness with lights focused only on the altar where a small choir was singing church hymns. Got goose bumps right that moment, just watching and listening.
Of Siestas, Old Restaurants And A Bit of Shopping
On the way back to the hotel, we also found El Corte Ingles, a famous department store chain. Of course it was closed. We thus kept our money. And since it is nearly Holy Week, we expect to save a lot of money at the rate the Spaniards spend siestas and close shops on almost any excuse or holiday. Let us just hope the restaurants, tavernas, tascas remain open. After all, we do have a long list of Spanish food to check out: paella, callos, cocido madrileno, chochinillo, fabada, bacalao al pilpil, manchego cheese, jamon jabugo, jamon serrano, chorizos, pescado en salsa verde, sopa castellano, turrones, etc.
On our way out of Madrid, we did have a chance to dine at Casa Botin, the acclaimed oldest restaurant in the world. Or so it is claimed in the Guinness Book of Records. El Botin is famous for its cochinillo (suckling pig), cordero (roast lamb), pescado (fish) with accompanying mushrooms and green beans. Ernest Hemingway was said to have dined here often, even had a favorite spot by the brick wall. You can only imagine how many diners tried to sit in that same spot (I should know, I did) and rub their backs on the brick wall.
Other than Casa Botin, there was also that unforgettable lunch at Museo del Jamon. No callos at the time we were there. Instead, we had Fabada, Frituras, Sopa Castellana, Chorizo, Quezo and Gambas. You bet we didn’t miss the chance to try the Manchego cheese. We were still drooling over our lunch here only to be roused out of our dreamy adventure when someone tried to pickpocket Ryll. Nothing stolen, but those 2 gypsies sure came close to it as they managed to unzip Ryll’s front pockets!!!!
No shopping, all eating. Not a bad deal. As we waved temporary farewells to Plaza Colon, Plaza Callao, Plaza Espana, Royal Palace, Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor, on our way out of Madrid, we felt our bulging waistlines and thought………….Espana is threatening to fatten us for the next 2 weeks.
The first 20 kilometers or so was a gruelling uphill climb. Up until the Refugio Orisson, and further up to La Vierge (12 kms) where we arranged to be picked up by our mountain shuttle service. Further up is the Cross Thibault. I have great respect for those who hiked the entire 25 (or 27.5?) kms from SJPP to Roncesvalles in a single day. Man, that was hard! We broke the stage over 2 days and it still was challenging. For some, 25 or 27.5 kilometers may not seem so daunting. I’ve walked far longer in earlier Caminos but gaining over 1,300 meters elevation spells a major difference! The last time I did this was in 2017 but I took the Valcarlos route because Orisson was all mist and the center closed the route for the pilgrims. This time, I wanted to do the Napoleon Route which passes Orisson and Borda. The claim that this stretch is the most difficult because of the ascent is very true. Can’t disagree with that. It helped that the Pyrenees is simply so lovely and the mountain scenery in all its misty beauty distracted us from the rhythm of painful strides as muscles here and there ached. Beautiful meadows and farms and looking back, breathtaking vistas of the valley. Plus the wildlife, counting sheep, wild horses and cattle with mountain bells strung around their necks. I only started worrying when we strayed off the mountain roads and walked on cliffside rocky inclines. Too careful I’d step on and dislodge some stones or slip over some rolling rocks, my cliffside glimpses somewhat affected my sense of balance. And confidence. But we made it. Struggling, but not miserable. We persevered.
From what I’ve read, many pilgrims miss the La Vierge — a spot where a statue of The Virgin stands — and the border between France and Spain as one crosses the Pyrenees. This is Navarre. We were mindful to keep this in mind. We also took note of the highest point — this is Col Lepoeder. No way one would miss this. It’s that high point from where it’s nearly all downhill for 5 kilometers or so. It is also the spot where one decides to go left into the beech forests (one of Europe’s largest) or right via “abandoned” country roads. Either way you end up in Roncesvalles. Reportedly, “left is death” and “right is life”. You bet we headed right. And even then, I have committed the numbers 112 into my memory. That’s the European emergency numbers. Like 911. About 3 kilometers down the country roads, one glimpses the rooftop of the grand looking monastery of Orreaga. That’s Roncesvalles in Navarra. A big sigh at this point. The struggle is about to end. The very welcoming hospitaleros in the historic monastery stamped our pilgrim’s passport and promptly led us in to book our beds. But alas, our mountain shuttle was there to ferry us back to Saint Jean Pied de Port for our 3rd straight night. We boarded our van like little children, eager to reach our crib and put up our aching legs before a hot shower. How sweet to get this over and done with. How fulfilling that we persevered and completed the first stage of Camino Frances. Hopefully, my companions will find themselves back on the mountain and forest paths to complete their pilgrimage walk.
This time, with my niece and my Sydney-based grandnephew. As expected, it’s the typical drill. Gaudi’s masterpieces, La Rambla, Passeig de Gràcia, Ciutat Vella, El Born, the beach, Montjuic and the Palau de la Musica Catalan. The colors of Gaudi’s Barcelona, the food options in Mercat de La Boquería, the chaotic tourist crowd, the vibrant music and sports — all these define Catalan Barcelona. An adequate, if not exuberant introduction to Europe for #aponimamu #withanaccent !
Park GuellPlaça CatalunyaParc Guell
Having arrived mid-morning, we left our bags in the hotel and hit the ground running. Mercat La Boqueria is closed on Sundays but some seafood restaurants deep inside were open for desayuno (breakfast). But we wanted a substantial (!!!) seafood lunch before the Spanish lunch hour. Por supuesto, we had our way. And we were fed adequately and hopped off with jolly bellies. Paella de Marisco, butifarra, pan con tomate, pimientos padron, and patatas bravas made for a good start.
Lunch at Ancora in La BoqueriaMercat de La Boqueria The Pooper
Meant to do a day trip to Girona or Sitges but time wasn’t enough. Gave up on those short trips and instead decided to explore more of Barcelona. Glad over this decision as we found time to visit Palau de la Musica Catalan and spend an early evening at La Barceloneta. Palau deserves more attention, for sure, and the beach is so much better (and more comfortable) during late spring or early summer. What struck me most however is the growing Filipino community here in Barcelona. Our hotel in the Old Town sits across a church apparently frequented by Filipinos. Heard Sunday Mass there where a Filipino priest said Mass and the church is 2/3 full, mostly with Pinoys. And brace yourself, the entire service was in our local language! I was even invited to offer flowers (“Flores de Mayo”) at the end of the service and by the time I stepped out of the church, there was a line of Filipino vendors offering Filipino snacks and other foodstuff. Made me feel like I was home. For a good 1 hour, the only language I heard was Filipino!
San Agusti Church Arco Sagrada Familia
Barcelona is a must-destination. It has a different vibe from the rest of Spain. Must be the Catalan flavor. Plus art, music, history, the beach and gastronomy all play so beautifully together in this one destination. Gaudi’s many masterpieces alone should take at least 3 days even if all entry tickets have been pre-booked! Just that the thick tourist crowd can be exhausting, with skilled pickpockets utterly threatening and annoying. They say local residents dislike tourists and make no bones showing their disgust but fortunately we didn’t experience any of this resentment.
Barcelona. There’s more than just Gaudi. Like there’s the Palace of Catalan Music standing proud, holding concerts since 1908. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was designed in that Catalan modernist style by Architect Montaner, allegedly Gaudi’s mentor. Surely, there is no shortage of geniuses in the Catalan art world.
Concert HallEntrance to Palau De La Musica Catalan
We took a guided tour of the concert hall and was mesmerized by the beauty both inside and outside. Flamboyant, some might say, and likely invited critics during its day. The chandeliers, stained glass windows, the columns and pillars, the flower and animal decor in all its intricate detail. Built from 1905 to 1908, this concert hall was designed for a choral society founded in 1891. The Orfeó Català spearheaded the Catalan cultural rebirth and the magnificent edifice was declared a UNESCO heritage site in 1997. Since its 1908 opening, it has not stopped promoting local composers and artists. Many premieres of musical compositions have been staged here, and some movies and tv shows have featured the palace in all its grandeur.
Ticket Window
I would have wanted to stay longer in Barcelona if only to watch an opera or a flamenco and guitar show. The calendar lists Madame Butterfly in a couple of days but alas, we leave before then. A pity. Hard to leave this elegant edifice, so we had our simple lunch in its Cafe Palau. Just as grand. Every inch of space a masterpiece. For some reason, the cafe cortado and tinto de verano taste better 😉 The bocadillo may be forgettable but I enjoyed the caprese empanada.
Cafe PalauCafe Palau
Truly an architectural marvel. I couldn’t even get past that ticket window ! Next time I make a trip to Barcelona, I will surely check Palau’s concert and opera calendar to time my visit. Stunning is an understatement. Mind blowing, close.
I have been to Barcelona a few times but have never taken the cable car ride to Montjuic Castle. Meant to throw in a visit to the Fundacion Miro to view this Catalan’s artworks but the Museo was closed on Mondays. Darn. 🙄 Settled for a castle tour at high noon and soaked in all that summer heat. I can feel the tan covering my arms and face.
Montjuic Castle
There isn’t much to see within the Castle. I guess much of the excitement begins and ends with the cable car ride. Just a short ride, which in my book, I can do without considering the €17 fee. Didn’t know the buses can bring us to the castle from the funicular station. So if you wish to scrimp, you can save €17 by ditching the cable car. Use the bus to get around the Montjuic area. We could have, but the summer heat exhausted us. I am sure it’s better when temps are lower.
Barcelona Olympics. Estadi Olimpic 1992. But at the moment, I hear that Barça will play their home matches here while Camp Nou is under renovation. I’d love to watch one of those games even if Messi isn’t with the Barça team anymore. There’s Lamine Yamal. And Pedri. And Gavi. And Lewandowski. (No, I don’t like Raphinha) Yay, I digress. Happens all the time once football 🏈 (NOT soccer) is talked about. How I love the sport! Especially Messi. Big fan here 😉
We called it a day after snapping shots of the city from the castle’s ramparts. We could make out the Sagrada Familia at a distance and the Torre Glories looking like a giant bullet shining under the sun can’t be missed. So with the iconic W Hotel in La Barceloneta. After a walking tour around the Old Town (Ciutat Vella), visits to Montjuic and La Barceloneta completed our first whole day in Barcelona.
One thing really going for Barcelona (as compared with other major cities in Spain) is its beach. Once home to Catalan fishermen, La Barceloneta is now a vibrant neighborhood by the Mediterranean Sea famous for its sandy shores, small clubs and boutique restaurants and bars serving seafood tapas.
We were in luck. Sun was out. And the sandy shore wasn’t so crowded with sunbathers. The seafront restaurants had empty seats which we readily claimed. As a former fishing village, its claim to fame as the best source of seafood is justified. Allegedly, the best Paella de Marisco is served here. Big fan of seafood here so I’m always on the lookout for those briny fresh harvests from the sea.
Moritz Bar . I had my cava here. Much like Prosecco, its Italian cousin. Perfect with anchovies on toast. The wait staff were so nice that one called me “Ate” (older sister) even though he could pass as my son. I was rather expecting tourists patronising this seafront barbut instead found locals. A good sign. The prices were also quite reasonable considering its prime spot for sunset views, sea breeze and shore access. Nothing was outrageously priced. That was a pleasant surprise.
Coming from Montjuic where we endured the heat and the uphill climbs, we were prepped to just go easy here in the playa (beach) and then perhaps check out the mercato in the neighborhood. Anything to take our minds off the frustration of visiting Fundacion Miro in Montjuic on a Monday when it was closed! The sea breeze not only ruffled our hair, but clearly emptied our minds of earlier woes. Just that I kind of expected temps to drop as the evening progressed but we were constantly reminded that summer has begun.
Failed to wait till sunset. Couldn’t wait till 9pm. Must be lovely in this part of coastal Barcelona. But our tired bodies pulled us off our seats to start our trek back to our hotel. Maybe next time. Meanwhile, we passed old residential buildings along narrow streets and alleys with laundry hanging from balconies or windows. A few more blocks walking back to the metro station was a row of seafood restaurants and lively bars. Ciao!
