Category: Italy



The whole plan involved 2 cruises. One off the Rhine River and the next aboard MSC sailing out of Barcelona. At the last minute, the Rhine Cruise was cancelled, leaving us “stranded” in Strasbourg. Thank goodness we had booked a 2nd cruise with MSC and that pushed through as scheduled. We tweaked our travel schedule so we can stay longer in our Strasbourg hotel and booked extra nights in another Barcelona hotel prior to the MSC Mediterranean cruise. Just 7 nights but with lovely ports of call one can dream of.

Inside the MSC World Europa

First port was in Marseilles in the south of France. Think panisses and bouillabaisse — Marseille’s signature seafood stew and chickpea flour fritters. We booked a walking tour here and decided on a lunch recommended by our guide. In Genoa — our 2nd port of call — we winged it on our own and heard Sunday Mass in the beautiful Cathedral of San Lorenzo, just a stone’s throw from the Chiesa del Gesu. More photos and details here.

Marseille

Genoa

Notre Dame Marseille & Vieux Port
It’s all about Focaccia in Genoa

In the past, we’d just breeze through Napoli and instead spend time in Positano, Sorrento and Capri. The Amalfi Coast is so breathtaking while Naples has gained quite a bad rap. I wasn’t confident to check out the city on my own but having crafted our own walking tour, we got off the boat and took a cab all the way to the Chiesa del Gesú Nuovo which is just a stone’s throw from the Monasterio delle Santa Chiara. Both churches run along the Spaccanapoli. We walked all the way back to the cruise terminal without any incident. Have a read.

Napoli, Italia

Taormina, Sicily

Galleria Umberto in Naples

Taormina

By the time we docked in Valletta, Malta, we were almost sad it’s our last port of call. It was a near perfect ship itinerary. From the south of France down south off Italy, with a day at sea to sail back up to Barcelona. But Malta is super impressive. It’s so small but soooo packed with history and culture. We wonder how the streets look and the vistas off the cliff after sundown when the swarming cruisers have gone back to boat.

Valletta, Malta 🇲🇹

Look at those iconic wooden closed balconies!

I spent my birthday at sea. So happened it’s the last whole day (on the boat) before disembarking in Barcelona. What a fun way to celebrate as the boat and its crew drummed up the beat before seeing us all off. Champagne and dancing all around. So much energy. Just perfect!


We docked early in Taormina, Sicily. And I must say, we were all dripping in excitement to walk the ancient cobbled paths of this Sicilian hill town resort town. Lying on the eastern part of Sicily, Taormina houses an ancient amphitheater that looks out to the Ionian Sea. The ancient Greek theatre is the second largest theatre in Sicily next to the one in Syracuse, and it’s been sitting there since the 3rd century BC. It was rebuilt by the Romans around the 2nd century AD and has since been the top attraction in Taormina.

Taormina, Sicily
Greek-Roman Amphitheatre

A day here simply isn’t enough. It would have been ideal to wander freely through the Corso Umberto past the Porta Messina just to browse through the many quaint shops, cafes, gardens and gelato bars. And don’t forget the cannoli! There is also the Palazzo Corvaja just past the arched gate to this commune. From its second level, one can observe the crowds moving through the Corso looking for souvenir items to buy or casing the ancient street to choose from the many cafes and bars.

We found an alley off the Corso lined by many trattorias and had an al fresco lunch of pulpo salad, pasta vongole and sardines in a place called Momma Rossa. The light, dry white wine I had with the very Italian lunch was all I needed after the uphill walks in and around the amphitheater. For a few minutes, I worried I was having one of those vertigo spells. But it passed. And we rewarded ourselves with a good proper lunch. The quaint shops with charming Sicilian vendors sent me back on the boat with a bag full of chocolate coated nuts and trinkets. After all the samples I had, only fair to buy stuff from those charming ladies. Let’s see if those chocs endure the trip home — I may be tempted to much on them while the trip lasts 😋

Lunch at Momma Rossa
Palazzo Corvaja

The Palazzo Corvaja just past the Porta Messina was actually closed for the day but for some reason, we managed to enter all the way to the second floor until a kind lady informed us that it wasn’t open. Well, that was a quick “tour” and with some time to spare before riding the shuttle back to our bus, we took some alleys leading to the Villa Comunale Gardens. This garden park used to be a private garden of an English noblewoman named Lady Florence who was then married to Taormina’s Mayor. We could have spent more time here despite the rain, but word got to us that most everyone is back ready to hie off for the return to our boat. If we had more time, we could have lingered and reached the garden’s spot which offered a majestic view of Mt. Etna and the sea. All’s well as we reminded ourselves we need another visit of Taormina as well as other parts of Sicily. Till next time!

Villa Comunale Garden
Villa Comunale Garden

I don’t understand why this city gets a bad rap. All the time we were here, I never felt unsafe or threatened. Yes, the cab drivers just outside the cruise terminal were bullies without exception but we knew better and walked away. A young taxi driver then politely asked us where we’re going and we negotiated a fixed €20 cab ride with him. He drove us all the way to the front steps of Gesù Nuovo to admire its distinctive striped facade and entered the church before it closed at 1pm. Soon after, we walked a few steps to the nearby Santa Chiara but didn’t have enough time to check out its lovely tiled cloisters. Like Gesù Nuovo, it closed at 1pm. As we exited its gate, we tracked our way towards Museo Capella Sansevero on the off chance somebody cancelled a timed admission to view the Veiled Christ sculpture (Cristo Velato). Tickets were fully sold for the next 2 weeks and we can only sigh in despair we didn’t book early enough. Serves us a good excuse to head back to Naples!

Inside Gesu Nuovo
Santa Chiara

The very street straddling both Gesu Nuovo and Santa Chiara is the Spaccanapoli. We wandered the historic street, browsed the little shops and simply enjoyed the atmosphere around Piazza San Domenico Maggiore. We even found a candy store where a kindly old signore offered us his risotto, even spoon feeding us! Like good children, we opened our mouths and thanked him for the Italian rice dish. Back on the Spaccanapoli, we walked back towards Via Toledo and found an old pizzeria that has been in operation since 1833. Lunch was a Pizza Margherita and fritto mixto in this ristorante called Pizzeria Mattozzi. In operation since 1833, it stands among Napoli’s most historic culinary institutions.

Pizza Margherita and Fritto Mixto
Maradona in the Spanish Quarter

We pretty much covered our planned itinerary except for missing the Museo Capella Sansevero which was fully booked. But we chanced upon the centuries-old pizzeria that has been one of Napoli’s historic culinary institutions. This birthplace of pizza has pizzerias all over the place. And the Spanish Quarter has many tiny al fresco dining spots along narrow alleys with walls adorned by the image of the much-loved soccer legend Maradona. The numero 10 before my fav Messi. Along Via Toledo, and meandering around the narrow alleys of the Spanish Quarter, we walked back towards the cruise terminal. Passed by Galleria Umberto, a piazza and an opera house. Also the Castel Nuovo right across where our boat was docked. Don’t know much about this “new castle” but since we had time before boarding time, we dropped in and snapped some photos before bidding Napoli ciao.

Galleria Umberto
Castel Nuovo
My AI-generated Walking Map

I’ve always loved Italy and here we are prepping for Sunday Mass in Genoa, our 2nd port of call on this Mediterranean Cruise. After Marseille, we were hoping for no youth riots and some Sunday peace. We got it. We cabbed our way from the cruise terminal to Piazza Ferrari. It is just a short walk from this piazza to Palazzo Ducale near the Catedrale de San Lorenzo. Passed some interesting shops and focaccia stalls and promised ourselves we’d be enjoying some Genovese bread and pastries.

Piazza Ferrari

Palazzo Ducale aka Doge’s Palace

The Cathedral has a lot of history. A World War 2 bomb hit the church but did not detonate. Dropped by the British in 1941, the bomb damaged the roof but failed to explode. Lodged in the church roofing, it is so incredible that the bomb was disarmed and now on display inside the church as a reminder of this miracle. The Genoa Cathedral draws many tourists wishing to view this beautiful church with Gothic portals and centuries-old frescoes. Besides, kept inside the cathedral are the ashes of San Giovanni Battista (Saint John the Baptist) who is the patron saint of Genoa.

Catedrale de San Lorenzo

The “Miracle” Bomb

We tried entering the Museo del Tesoro adjoining the church but it was closed. It is an underground medieval museum actually with access from inside the church. Among the relics is Sacro Catino, a dish allegedly used by Jesus Christ in the Last Supper. Not too far from the Cathedral is another beautiful church — the Chiesa del Gesù. Just like all other Gesù churches, the outside architecture and the interiors are so elegantly beautiful.

Chiesa Del Gesù

We didn’t leave Genoa or Genova without trying the famous Genovese focaccia. We queued up to buy the Classic as well as the focaccia della chipolla. We ate them standing up, like locals 😋 and for good measure, snatched up a pan dolci pistachio e chocolato and torta di nonna (which was soooo good). We traced back our steps to Piazza Ferrari after those snacks, and cabbed our way back to the boat. Back to our floating crib. Our second port of call is over.

Focaccia e Dintorni

Same time last year, I was only too happy to welcome the new year. It was a very challenging 2023 then and by God’s grace, we breezed through 2024 with many pleasant surprises and happy developments. And just like that, here we are on the last few weeks of 2024, looking forward to a very Merry Christmas and an even happier 2024.

Nightcap at Fairmont Hotel

The first quarter of 2024 was nearly uneventful until my visit to our OZ branch in Sydney. The visit was actually a prelude to an even longer trip crossing 3 time zones. Sydney was our takeoff point for our South American adventure. I waited to join my travel buddies on a flight to Santiago, Chile on April 2. The “barkada trip” covering Chile and Peru spanned over 2 weeks but I left earlier than the rest to join my 2 “apos” in the beautiful city of Venezia for the biennale exhibition. But that’s getting ahead of my story. Patagonia on Chile’s side is magnificent — the kind of adventure you should have planned for when you were younger. Seriously. But visiting it now still stirs that adventurous juice within you. The vista was so dreamy it casts a magical spell. We’ve had some mishaps and coming into Peru, experienced altitude sickness of sorts. Yet, we all cherish the memories and weeks after the trip, found it a chore to move on. We’ve traveled to many beautiful spots together but this South American journey is one for the books. Santiago, Patagonia, Machu Picchu, Cuzco, Lake Titicaca and all the places in between comprise one magical holiday, compelling us to rethink our future travel plans.

Torres Del Paine. Patagonia. Chile.
Cusco. Peru

It was agonizing to leave this happy group to take that last seat on a flight from Lima, Peru to Madrid, Spain for a connecting flight to Venice, Italy. By the time I landed in Venice, I felt brain-fogged and nearly deaf after all those flight hours and anxieties over missing my connecting flight. My 2 elves were waiting for me by then as I managed to join them on the exhibit opening day. Without change of clothes, we didn’t miss a beat and went straight to the gallery where my grandma pride took over as I stared at apo’s lone entry hanging on a wall at Palazzo Mora. Grateful. Proud. Beyond Happy. We celebrated the day I arrived with a sumptuous Italian dinner before I hit the sack and snored the night away. Just one night. The following morning, we took the train for Florence where we spent 6 nights and then to Rome for 3 more nights before flying home. It was an Italian holiday that went better than planned.

Venezia

London

Some friends ask me where I get the energy. By September, we got ready for yet another art exhibition in London. Before the London exhibit, we took side trips to Liverpool and Edinburgh in Scotland. A most rewarding trip in 3 cities in the United Kingdom. Apo and her mom enjoyed these detours and prepped us good for the exhibit of Filipino artists in D Contemporary in the Mayfair area of London. Took all of nearly 3 weeks for this UK journey. Stayed home less than 2 weeks before flying back to Sydney — a second visit this year, and this time as a prelude to a New Zealand cruise aboard the Celebrity Edge. Not my first cruise but my first trip to further Down Under! Twelve nights on this big boat, half of which spent at sea. Our big group of 29 made it across those unpredictable waters and found the NZ spots under the tourist radar quite interesting, if not charming.

Celebrity Edge Cruiseship Behind me.

Marina in Auckland, New Zealand

I am home now. Happy to have bonded with my OZ family before and after my NZ cruise. Happy to be back to attend a reunion with college friends and of course, to spend Christmas and New Year with my family. No trips outside the country nor out-of-town. We are staying home to spend time with balikbayan kin and friends. The Yuletide calendar is full, marking a couple of birthdays and a wedding anniversary as well. We have made some Yuletide traditions simpler over the years. Simpler, but more “present”. Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas. May 2025 bring us peace, prosperity, harmony and many treasured moments with our loved ones ❤️

My OZ family
Christmas Party

Gramping. It’s becoming a trend where grandparents travel with grandchildren. It can be fun, but it can also be disastrous for some especially if there are no shared interests and food preferences. I have taken trips with the “apos” (grandchildren) before — once to Madrid to stay with a niece, and another time to Sydney to visit our relatives. But lately, we have taken trips together on our own, staying in hotels or apartments, charting a travel itinerary based on what the 3 of us wish to do and deciding each day on what and where to dine. Mostly, we ended up visiting museums and cultural attractions but we also managed to squeeze in a concert in each of the trips. The very first gramping was in 2023 starting in Amsterdam where we literally exhausted as many museums we can cover, checking out the bars and sleeping in most mornings. Our days started late unless we planned some day trips and we almost always managed to eat well. From Amsterdam, we took trains to move around and based ourselves in Brussels, Brugges, Nimes and Avignon before moving to Paris. Food porn all the way without minding the calories as we burned them just walking all around. It was a wonderful trip and we delighted on our food discoveries while tracing Van Gogh’s provençal life. Wrote many blogs about this gramping adventure but here’s the blog summary.

It has been under a year since that gramping when we found ourselves haphazardly planning a 2nd gramping. This time to Italy. An invitation for my nieta to join a few other Filipino artists to exhibit their works in Venezia is simply too difficult to pass up. And so it went that I caught up with them on their last day in Venice, as I was coming off another trip. The plan was to train from Venice to Florence where we based ourselves and did day trips to many other Tuscan spots before settling in Rome where we flew back to our Manila nest. Just 2 weeks. Too many places we wish to visit but not enough time. As I came off another trip, the apos crafted our travel itinerary right down to where and what we’d eat as well as some time for a cafe crawl and bar hopping. Once more, we had a wonderful time. Never thought I’d pile up so many journals for this rather short trip but the memories just overflow and required some “order” for proper safekeeping!

By this time, we 3 are pretty sure we travel well together. Apos are now quite adept crafting travel itineraries, hotel bookings, train reservations and dining options. The last item is important. With only 3 of us, it is nearly impossible to share meals if we don’t have similar food preferences. We also share the same passion for a good brew and gelato breaks are a given whenever we’re traveling. Happy hours are delightfully enjoyed and this is when we love chatting about our favourite spots and plan where else to go. We have also mastered the art of grocery shopping for some lazy dinners and breakfasts while doing our laundry.

And now, we’re off again. The full activity in UK beckons so watch this page for updates. Ciao for now.

Around London

If I had my way, I’d either go to Lake Como or head south to Sicily. Perhaps even jump off from there to visit Malta, which has been in my bucket list for sometime. But this is an unplanned trip and the principal destination is Venezia for nieta’s participation in an art exhibit there. Met up with them, spent just another night in Venice and hopped on a train the next day to Firenze. Having based ourselves there for 7 days and 6 nights, we spent 3 whole days doing excursions to explore Tuscany and the Italian Riviera. After a week, off we went to the Eternal City. Not enough time to cover as much ground in historic Rome but we managed quite well. Nothing rushed. We skipped some but enjoyed whatever we managed to visit. This blog summary lists all the cities and neighborhoods we ticked off in about 2 weeks. Just click the links for more photos and details. Ciao!

Trastevere and Monti

Touristy Spots in Roma

Cinque Terre

Leaning Tower of Pisa

Monteriggioni and Chianti

Siena and San Gimignano

Around Firenze

Touchdown: Florence

Overnight in Venezia

Palazzo Mora. Venezia Biennale 2024.
Florence
Rome

After a visit to Maxxi Museum of Contemporary Art, we took a cab to Trastevere for dinner. Tourists and locals alike seemed to be all here, lining up for dinner. We’ve chosen to try Tonarello, in the Piazza Della Scala. We each ordered pasta as our “primi” and then shared a bowl of mussels. I know, we didn’t want to disappoint the Italians by making a meal out of our pasta dishes — Cacio y Pepe, Carbonara and Amatriciana — but those carbs served in their pans can be very filling. We love the moules, as well as the Prosecco. We even love the chaos and the noise you get when eating al fresco in some corner in Trastevere. The “shouts” to those in line when a table is vacated is a practiced skill. For desserts of gelato and tiramisu, we tried another bar within the same area. As in somewhere more quiet. 😉

Trastevere
Church of Santa Maria Della Scala

Because traffic is banned from some sections like the piazzas, outdoor dining especially when it’s near-summer is truly delightful. Just around the block, tables under huge umbrellas were laid out with handicrafts, artisan jewellery, art pieces, and other curios. There was also an abundance of antique bric-a-brac in the outdoor stalls as well as in tiny vintage shops. The good coffee shops — called bars here — are easy to spot. There is almost always a line. Same goes for gelaterias which are spread all over Rome.

Al fresco Dining in Trastevere
Sant’ Eustachio Coffee on the go

Not sure if it’s because of the time of day we visited, but Monti seems less crowded. We had breakfast in one of the bars here. A breakfast which may well be a post-meal dessert as we ordered tiramisu and cannolis to go with our coffee. Well, we’re in Rome! The busker music then drew us out of the bar and into these cutesy, tiny vintage shops and record bars which of course took some of our precious time. All’s well, we’re having a good time. Not rushing, just browsing. At mid-morning, some activities have just began. Like bread deliveries to trattorias, shop openings, street-sweeping, etc. You can tell these Italians start their days late. And enjoy their coffee under the morning sun. (We took our breakfast table INSIDE).

Monti Neighborhood
Monti

We’re glad we spent time in this neighborhood. The vibrant scene has such a local flavor that’s missing in many tourist traps. Of course, The tourists have already discovered these bohemian spots but somehow, that old character remains. Was trying to figure out what changed — and I’m guessing the tourists are here “on their own”, taking less photos, and NOT herded around in groups with a tour guide. No umbrellas! No pushing for that impossible “sans crowd” posterity shot before a fountain, a building, a Bernini sculpture. No cam whores! Why? Besides, the visitors seem to be more interested in the trattorias and osterias here. They must be hungry like us too, so the concerns and priorities differ. What do you think? 🤔


I’m praying I still have some leftover energy for this last stop in Italy before heading home. With 4 more nights in the Eternal City, we needed to decide which spots TO MISS. Easier to decide on which to give up, rather than which are the must-sees. There are just too many. As it turned out, the basilica interiors can wait. The walk-through the Roman Forum and the Colloseo interiors are struck off the list. The Vatican Museum and other museos can wait another day. And so it happened so naturally that the must-see spots were narrowed down to Saint Peter’s Square, the Vittorio Emmanuel and Piazza Venezia, Piazza Navona, Pantheon, Trevi Fountain, Spanish Steps, the Colloseo and the Roman and Imperial Forum from the roadside.

Fontana Di Trevi
Saint Peter’s Square
Vittorio Emmanuel

It was a struggle to maintain one’s sanity given the flux of tourists in ALL the “must-tick- off” list in Rome. Unless you get there real early — as in the break of dawn — expect tourist traps. Even museum visits can be an ordeal when one pushes or gets pushed by the thick crowd. It was hot and humid when we reached Rome, and people around aren’t in the best of moods. We saw many gelato scoops on the ground — must have been dropped there by tourists angling for snapshots while navigating the crowds. We joined a walking tour “for context” as my apos would say. But we DIY’d the Vittorio Emmanuel, Saint Peter’s Square and Piazza Venezia. We made time to visit a museum of contemporary art, and lingered in 2 bohemian neighborhoods in Rome.

Colloseo
Piazza Navona
Pantheon

I think we did pretty well. The apos can always visit the spots they missed next time around. I remember renting a room in Rome with my niece in 2006 for 11 days. Thought that gives us much time to cover more ground but naaahhh, one should always be willing to pass up some good spots. On this trip, we only had 4 days. Ergo, we decided on a core list of mandatory visits if only so we can roam freely in some of the neighborhoods we found more interesting. Besides, the heat, the crowd, the sun were beginning to bother us. We have also been hailing cabs or booking Uber rides. All energy sapped to even take the bus or train. Thank goodness we’ve been eating real well here and elsewhere in Italy. We are adequately “nourished” and that kept our sanity intact.

Spanish Steps
Altar of Fatherland

Next and final blog will be on the neighbourhoods we spent more time in. Monti and Trastevere charmed us. We liked the bohemian vibe and the dining scene we found very interesting. Watch this page 🙂

“I’m a big believer in winging it. I’m a big believer that you’re never going to find perfect city travel experience or the perfect meal without a constant willingness to experience a bad one. Letting the happy accident happen is what a lot of vacation itineraries miss, I think, and I’m always trying to push people to allow those things to happen rather than stick to some rigid itinerary.”

  • Anthony Bourdain

It’s been on my bucket list for the longest time. Oh well, there’s a lot more in that list and I’m just thinking Italy here. Italy draws me back time and again. It’s always been my happy place and I’m not just thinking food. And since I’m showing first-timer apos around, we did the holy triangle (Venice, Florence, Rome) but I made sure I squeezed in a destination that’s a first visit for all 3 of us. And Cinque Terre it is. Would have loved staying a few nights to explore all 5 villages but time was against us. We did just a day trip and covered only 4 towns: Manarola, Monterosso, Riomaggiore and Vernazza. We’ll check out Corniglia another time. Frankly, I would have been happy with just 2, but doing 2 more is a pleasant bonus.

Vernazza
Manarola

Our tour bus took us on an easy (but early) ride from Florence to La Spezia. Upon arrival, we took brief train rides going from one village to the next. In Manarola, there was a short hike if one were to get a magnificent view of the colorful houses built along the slope of the hill. Many tourists hiked up along a rocky path with railings and some spots presented photo opps . We spent some time here and yes, snapped a lot of photos. Our first set of posterity shots in Cinque Terre! Along the rocky path, we spotted doors presumably leading to residences. I imagined myself coming out of one of those doors opening up to these awesome scenes especially the sunset views.

Monterosso
Riomaggiore

Manarola was our “introduction” to this fabulous place. Can’t believe I missed this place in all my visits to Italy. It’s less than 3 hours from Florence, even nearer than Venice. We love the vibe of all coastal villages. My “beach bum” dream comes into gear whenever we get near any body of water. There is something very relaxing watching the sun rise or set against an ocean or sea view. Or sipping your coffee as the sea breeze wafts through your hair. Gelato stops became the order of the day, and since we are in the Ligurian region, it’s trofie pasta with pesto sauce for lunch. Too bad we failed to try their anchovies! But the seafood salad appetizers made up for it. 😘

You need good strong legs to do this again.

After Manarola, we came upon Vernazza. Easily my favorite town. I love how the “busyness” of the town with bustling street vendors and the lively church by the shore with many small boats not so neatly “parked” side by side, make up a vibrant village replete with al fresco cafes and fruit stalls. It’s like a scene from a movie. The same tourist crowd seems to be charmed by the next 2 lively towns of Monterosso and Riomaggiore. But Monterosso boasts of a longer shoreline, attracting a beach crowd. It was a cold day when we visited but the sun is out so the low temps didn’t deter the younger ones to lay out beach towels and strip to their swimsuits and hit the water. Oh, the recklessness and energy of youth!

Our trip took a solid 12 hours, about 5-6 hours accounted for by the time spent on the bus. It’s like spending just slightly more than an hour in each village. It would be nice to revisit and spend nights in one of the towns. Dilemna is, which town? I’d likely choose Vernazza but one vote went to Monterosso. We all agreed we’d hike up to Corniglia next visit. So there. Ciao!