Category: France



The whole plan involved 2 cruises. One off the Rhine River and the next aboard MSC sailing out of Barcelona. At the last minute, the Rhine Cruise was cancelled, leaving us “stranded” in Strasbourg. Thank goodness we had booked a 2nd cruise with MSC and that pushed through as scheduled. We tweaked our travel schedule so we can stay longer in our Strasbourg hotel and booked extra nights in another Barcelona hotel prior to the MSC Mediterranean cruise. Just 7 nights but with lovely ports of call one can dream of.

Inside the MSC World Europa

First port was in Marseilles in the south of France. Think panisses and bouillabaisse — Marseille’s signature seafood stew and chickpea flour fritters. We booked a walking tour here and decided on a lunch recommended by our guide. In Genoa — our 2nd port of call — we winged it on our own and heard Sunday Mass in the beautiful Cathedral of San Lorenzo, just a stone’s throw from the Chiesa del Gesu. More photos and details here.

Marseille

Genoa

Notre Dame Marseille & Vieux Port
It’s all about Focaccia in Genoa

In the past, we’d just breeze through Napoli and instead spend time in Positano, Sorrento and Capri. The Amalfi Coast is so breathtaking while Naples has gained quite a bad rap. I wasn’t confident to check out the city on my own but having crafted our own walking tour, we got off the boat and took a cab all the way to the Chiesa del Gesú Nuovo which is just a stone’s throw from the Monasterio delle Santa Chiara. Both churches run along the Spaccanapoli. We walked all the way back to the cruise terminal without any incident. Have a read.

Napoli, Italia

Taormina, Sicily

Galleria Umberto in Naples

Taormina

By the time we docked in Valletta, Malta, we were almost sad it’s our last port of call. It was a near perfect ship itinerary. From the south of France down south off Italy, with a day at sea to sail back up to Barcelona. But Malta is super impressive. It’s so small but soooo packed with history and culture. We wonder how the streets look and the vistas off the cliff after sundown when the swarming cruisers have gone back to boat.

Valletta, Malta 🇲🇹

Look at those iconic wooden closed balconies!

I spent my birthday at sea. So happened it’s the last whole day (on the boat) before disembarking in Barcelona. What a fun way to celebrate as the boat and its crew drummed up the beat before seeing us all off. Champagne and dancing all around. So much energy. Just perfect!


Marseilles. Our boat docked mid morning here and we promptly disembarked soon after breakfast and cabbed all the way to Vieux Port to meet our guide at 11am. We were in luck. Our guide is a history teacher and anthropologist who is so knowledgeable in a way that didn’t sound nerdy. It helped EZ had a good sense of humour and every so often injected fun facts and trivia to his “history lessons”. I have been to Marseilles many moons ago but have not exactly explored this oldest city of France. As with Paris & Strasbourg where we earlier spent time, there were protests or “manifestations” all over. EZ guided us through streets and alleys, keeping in mind to avoid the protesters. I’d say we were always a good 5-10 minutes ahead of them — in the Town Hall or Hotel de Ville, and around the corniche in Vieux Port. We found ourselves in Hotel de Ville which was almost empty, and detoured to some side streets walking towards Le Panier.

Hotel de Ville
Protesters walking towards Hotel de Ville

We had a good run. EZ led us walking for nearly 3 hours, never losing our attention as we climbed up the hilly parts of Le Panier. This bohemian neighborhood reminded me of Montmartre in Paris . Street murals, cozy cafes, artisan shops, cobblestoned paths and laundry hanging to dry off balconies paint a very bohemian vibe. This is Marseilles’ oldest neighborhood and houses the Cathedrale de la Major. From colorful graffiti to religious edifices, Le Panier has much to offer. And it’s an easy walk from the old port.

If I were to head back to Marseilles, I’d definitely spend more time here. It would be nice to try some of the hole-in-the-wall coffee shops where one sips coffee under an artfully done mural. Or to check out the many artisan shops selling anything from soaps and souvenir items. EZ lived in Le Panier some 15 years ago when he just arrived here from Argentina, and so knew the neighborhood like the back of his hand. He had recommendations also on where to enjoy a good bouillabaisse. We heeded his advice and tried Au Bout du Quai’s bouillabaisse, panisse de aoili, and oysters. Cravings satisfied!

By the time we were ready to leave the area to get back to our boat, the protest has gone wild and it was reported that the young rioters have stormed the Hotel de Ville. Some in our group got caught in the melee and experienced some tense, tear gas moments. The taxi ranks are devoid of taxis and we were just lucky to veer off the main port road and found a cab driver drinking coffee in some obscure corner. We cabbed back in time to board our boat, happy with our adventures. And this is only our first stop on this Mediterranean Ctuise. Genoa next!

Bouillabaisse, Panisse de Aoili
Cathedrale La Major
Notre Dame at the top of a hill

Right. So here’s what happened. We intended to stay just 3 nights in Strasbourg before boarding our boat for the Rhine Cruise. But we got word the cruise is cancelled because of the Rhine’s low water situation. Plan B set into motion, but not without complications. We’re staying 2 extra nights in Strasbourg and 3 extra nights in Barcelona before we board our boat for the Mediterranean cruise. As we spend our weekend here in Strasbourg, we are thinking of another day trip somewhere or maybe just stay put here to check out the weekend food market or maybe even ride a small boat around Petite France. There’s also many Alsatian dishes to try here near the border with Germany. 😋

Notre Dame Strasbourg
Inside Notre Dame

Being “stranded” in Strasbourg isn’t a bad idea. This charming corner of France with a very rich and vibrant Franco-German heritage offers many picturesque spots like scenic river walks, centuries-old half-timbered houses, a majestic cathedral, pretty bridges, cozy cafes and brasseries. Petite France looks straight out of a fairy tale, sitting pretty along the Ill River. The Grand Rue that runs along the water is kept busy with pedestrians checking out the cheese stores, boutiques, bistros and cafes. It’s been a good week now in France and after Paris, it is nice to just relax and take leisurely walks with hardly a plan except to eat well and snap a few lovely photos as souvenirs of the Alsace Region.

Petite France
Petite France
Petite France

I should be updating this blog as we go along. For the moment, we’re cooling our heels around here. The morning showers aren’t exactly welcome but perfect days aren’t the norm. So there. And yes, we’ve been eating well. Food is French-German and we’re loving it. Watch this page.

Le Tire Bouchon
Winstub La Vieille Enseigne

Outside of Paris lies Colmar in the beautiful Alsace Region. Been in my bucket list for years, especially after looking at those lovely Alsatian Christmas markets . But what floored me more than its scenic landscape and pretty village is its true treasure, the Musee Unterlinden housed in a 13th century convent and what used to be a public baths building. The entire building keeps a massive collection but given our limited time, we concentrated on the breathtaking Isenheim Altarpiece. If only for these masterpieces by the German Renaissance painter Grunewald & carver Haguenauer, no one wonders why and how this Musee receives as many as 200,000 visitors yearly.

Collected from some churches, abbeys, convents and monasteries, the religious artworks were recently restored (2018-2022) and now on display in all its vivid colors. Impressive paintings and sculptures of the Nativity, Annunciation, Crucifixion and Resurrection were commissioned for a monastery hospital in Isenheim back in 1512-1516, and later moved to Colmar some 20 kms away in 1792 during the French Revolution.

It’s almost sinful to spend just an hour in Musee Unterlinden. Viewing the altarpieces and retablo alone can easily take 3 hours. The massive polyptych adorned the high altar of the monastery hospital’s Antonite chapel until the French Revolution. It is claimed that these masterpieces provided spiritual comfort to the sick and dying in the hospital. I haven’t heard about Grünewald and a quick search tells me he has not acquired as much fame as many Renaissance masters. Sad to think that he was not that popular then and even now but his works speak for themselves.

Lastly, the 13th century convent hosting this Musee Unterlinden is one impressive structure complete with cloisters and a basement where the public baths once were. I certainly need to brush up on this museum and its Isenheim collection as my knowledge prior to this visit is zilch. Watch this page for updates.


Never skipped a Montmartre visit whenever in Paris. Thick tourist crowd, yes, but beyond Place du Tertre, Sacre Ceour, Moulin Rouge there are still pockets of tranquility and beauty. Soon after rounding up the public square taken over by artists cum portraitists, an assortment of souvenir shops, cafes, creperies and gelato bars, the side streets and winding alleys are both interesting and challenging. Not exactly under the tourist radar, but we found these spots less crowded and somehow devoid of scammers and pickpockets.

Moulin de la Galette sits under a historic windmill, a spot where a cabaret once stood too.
Moulin de la Galette at the corner of Rue Lepic and Rue Girardon

Moulin de la Galette offers outside seating where we enjoyed traditional French cuisine while passersby took photos of the historic windmill immortalized in Van Gogh’s The Guingette, A Cafe Terrace in Montmartre and The Moulin de la Galette. Other artists likewise painted these historical monuments including the cabaret crowd — A. Renoir, Henri de Toulouse-Latrec, Picasso. At the time, Montmartre was a village of wine growers, millers and cabaret owners. It is claimed the dance halls aka cabarets gave birth to the French cancan whose prominent stars allegedly had their debuts here. Since the 1900’s, many famous actors similarly frequented the area to enjoy their galettes with muscat wine. As for us, we enjoyed the landmark restaurant under a windmill’s moules fritte, French onion soup and Beouf with Bernaise Sauce.

Place Dalida
Marcel Ayme

Not too far from this corner is Place Dalida named after a famous French-Egyptian singer who once lived in the area. Dalida’s bust and square featured in some movies and tv series like Emily in Paris. The story goes that Dalida once had a brief romantic alliance with the famous French actor Alain Delon. At the time, both were unknown artists when they first met as struggling neighbors. While both gained prominence in their respective arts, Dalida became a musical icon, selling millions of records but unfortunately committed suicide in 1987 at age 54. Several of her former partners earlier committed suicide, including one ex-husband. What a sad life for beautiful and talented Dalida. Off some corner here is the interesting bronze sculpture of Marcel Ayme, a French short story writer, playwright, and essayist. Among his works is The Man Who Could Walk Through Walls. You can find this sculpture by Jean Marais at the intersection of Rue Girardon and Rue Norvins.

Cafe Deux Moulin
La Maison Rose aka Pink House

If you have watched and liked the classic French movie Amelie, you’d likely be interested to dine in Cafe des Deux Moulins along Rue Lepic on a downhill slope towards Moulin Rouge. Obviously, the cafe was named after Montmartre’s two famous and historical windmills — the Moulin Rouge and Moulin de la Galette. The character Amelie worked in this cafe, serving that very French creme brûlée with hot chocolate chaud. The movie’s massive international success featuring Audrey Taotou made this cafe very famous. She is the same French actress who appeared in Da Vinci Code (2006) and Coco Before Chanel (2009).

Walking around Montmartre means climbing a lot of stairs and struggling against uphill climbs.
Sacre Coeur

The La Maison Rose or Pink House is further up, nearer Sacre Coeur along the beautiful street Rue de Abreuvoir. Many tourists find this cafe very “instagrammable” as it sits in a corner serving classic French and Italian country cuisine. I’ve only had cafe allongé and a lemon tart here but they do serve a classic but limited menu. If you’re around this corner, do take an outside table across the Pink House and enjoy watching people passing, posing and snapping photos of the Maison. Quite an experience. You’d likely even be requested to take some of their pictures. 🤫


This wasn’t planned. On this trip, my travel mates booked an evening Seine cruise which I decided not to join. Took off on my own instead and checked in for a night of adoration at the Hôtellerie de la Basilique du Sacre Coeur de Montmartre. I never missed a visit to this lovely basilica up on a hill with every trip to Paris. No matter how tight the travel schedule is. I also try not to miss every First Friday Mass (and if possible, every Friday Mass) and novena to the sacred heart. When I learned the basilica allows vigils (from 11pm to 6am) and provides accommodation to volunteers at this guest house attached to the basilica, I readily signed up. Weekend vigils are almost always full but Mondays are relatively “lacking” in numbers. I booked a room — very spartan — and dinner prior to confession, mass, adoration and prepped myself for a night under the dome. At dinner, I met the staff and some volunteers. We were 15. So I assumed we can easily assign the adoration hours amongst us. It turned out more than half of the people around the table made up the staff. For a good hour, I think I was all alone inside the basilica. I could almost feel the echo of my laboured breathing and coughing. I stared at the lighted candles and mindlessly watched if the lights seemed to sway right or left. Wondered how the light flickered when there didn’t seem to be any wind blowing within the vast space. I didn’t trust myself to wander around under the big dome. I only managed to look behind me and panned the camera, hoping I won’t find any moving shadows. It was so eerily quiet. And very dark. Only the altar was lighted. Plus the candles. For a while, I wasn’t so sure about the passageway that connected the basilica to the hotellerie. Yay.

When I checked in at 4pm, I had time to rest in my room one level below ground. Very spartan. There was a window looking out to an empty space hemmed in by trees and a white statue of the sacred heart. Dinner was served one level lower. The bridgeway that connects to the basilica is one level above ground. So from my room, I needed to climb 2 flights of stairs. Around 8pm, the confessionals were kept busy. A priest must be taking his break, walking around the church. I approached him and asked if I can make a confession and he led me to his confessional box. Then the 10pm mass where this same father-confessor was the presiding priest. I stayed long after the mass. I initially counted 4 of us, maybe 5 as I detected a shadow behind me. Before long, all’s quiet and I felt alone. What a lovely time to pray. From the many church doors, I was trying to figure out which led to the bridgeway and prayed I won’t get lost. Oh, I admit I found a staircase beside the altar leading down and curious me took it. I climbed back up promptly when i sensed it was leading to a crypt. 😳

Every so often, I would travel with my family or friends and somehow manage to exclude myself from the group for some “me time”. This was my “me time” and I’m glad I was able to do this. It was kind of difficult to sleep as my senses were full on but it was a wonderful time to pray. Looking back, I wasn’t sure what I prayed about. I think I just sat there quietly and “listened”. And many happy thoughts wafted through my mind. The gratitude in my heart floated through, leaving me aware of how I actually ended up here. Nothing happens by accident. It appeared unplanned, but somewhere deep in the recesses of my mind, I felt “chosen”. I couldn’t ask for more. I am grateful to feel the way I do now.

The following morning, I skipped the breakfast provided for the volunteers and instead walked around Montmartre. I love this bohemian neighborhood with all its quirky cafes, tiny museums, creperies and brasseries. I just don’t enjoy the sloping streets especially when going uphill. And that Rue Lepic which snaked down to Pigalle which threw off all my sense of direction. I’ve never seen a street corner of the same street! Like Rue Lepic lying perpendicular to another Rue Lepic. Oh well. I’m only too glad with the discovery even if it made me lose track of where to go. So, heading back to our Paris crib now . But not before breakfast. Will I do this again? Why ever not? 🙏🙏🙏


Touchdown, Paris. It’s a Sunday so we decided we’d be off to hear mass after dropping our bags in the hotel. Meant to hear the 1130 mass in Notre Dame but the wait from landing to going through passport control and arriving in our hotel ruined our plans. The streets around the hotel near Champ Elysees were so crowded with dog walkers and our hotel transfer wasted precious hours snaking around detours. By the time we were ready to leave the hotel, we couldn’t even hail a cab. Taxi ranks overtaken by “The Sausage Walk 2026”. Yay, this is Paris indeed. Dog walkers all over the place. So we decided to instead take the metro to Hotel de Ville across Notre Dame. From there we walked towards our chosen restaurant for our Sunday late lunch across the Seine. Au Bourguignon du Marais did not disappoint. Walking along Rue de Rivoli to reach this bourguignon place meant passing by (and dropping in) some shops along Rue de Rivoli, a very trendy street in Le Marais. Tempting to stop for some retail therapy, but after a long flight and muscles begging for a stretch, lunch is the 1st order of the day. And make that a traditional French lunch. A very French lunch.

Beef bourguignon was the bistro’s signature dish and we certainly enjoyed that. Magret de Canard did not really stand out but the dishes that were served before the main entree were truly frenchy good. Love the escargot, the French onion soup and the ouef mayonnaise. More than enough for the four of us. Not bad for our first French meal soon after touchdown. I skipped my inflight meal having decided to sleep through my connecting flight but no luck on catching some winks on these flights. Sob.

The yummy starters before the real deal.

We passed on desserts since we planned to indulge in Carette after this heavy lunch but Carette had to wait. Our random plan to visit Musee Carnavalet ended so uncomfortably warm and humid. Don’t misunderstand — Carnavalet is certainly worth a visit (and it’s free) but temps hiked after our late lunch and it was unbearably warm and humid. We didn’t stay too long and upon exit, dragged ourselves to the nearby square, the oldest in Paris. Place des Vosges. Carette and Maison Victor Hugo are both just around the square but after a long sleepless flight, the rising humidity and the thick Sunday crowd, we lost energy and decided to call it a day.

The taxi that brought us home had to deal with closed-off streets and detours. Upon reaching our Paris crib, we were wasted. Ready to hit the sack. But not before a glass of vino rouge.


And just like that, we only have a couple of weeks before the year 2026 sets in. This early, we’ve mapped out some travel plans already for the coming year. Siargao in January. Kerala, India in February. Back to Sydney in March for quite a time, till June. And for the 2nd half of the year 2026, a river cruise along the Rhine. God knows where else we’d find ourselves in in between those planned trips. There’s Hokkaido and Medan, Indonesia in the drawing boards. And of course, that forever plan to watch Messi play — either with Inter Miami or with his national team Argentina for the coveted back to back win in the World Cup. Busy 2026? Perhaps busier than this year 2025. I’ve skipped many trips with my travel mates this year — choosing to spend more time and holidays with the family. All good. 👍

Hiroshima

Started 2025 with a trip to Fukuoka although we stayed in Hiroshima for the most part. Despite the grim reminders of the horrors of war, the white and pink Sakura blooms cheered us up all throughout that spring holiday. For the 3rd time, I visited Miyajima Island to enjoy once more the iconic Torii gate and the succulent oysters and eels the island is famous for. Back in Manila for the necessary preps for a bigger trip to Spain and France. This European holiday is my first trip with a grandnephew based in Sydney, plus a niece whom I wanted to introduce to the camino as well as take to Lourdes, France for some “spiritual experience”. From the Gaudi-inspired city of Barcelona, we took the train to Pamplona and met up with cousins to Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles to Lourdes to Paris. It was time very well spent. The sightseeing, the pilgrimage walk, time with family, the art and culture aspects of a trip and most importantly, the bonding time while experiencing all these lovely adventures and creating happy memories.

Walking out of Saint Jean Pied de Port in France to cross the Pyrenees into Spain.

Soon after this European trip, I only had a few days to pack for another holiday. This time, in Bali, Indonesia where more kin from Sydney flew in to join me for 5 days of sun and sand. We made sure the trip is “senior friendly” as my 81 year old sister and brother-in-law are joining. That is not to say this newly-arrived (from a hectic trip) septuagenarian didn’t need a break. Quite honestly, I actually rested so well in Bali. It was truly a relaxing holiday after a fast-paced holiday with a younger set. Just what I needed!

With family in Bali.

Fukuoka in spring. Fukuoka in end of summer. Yes, I returned to this lovely city in September, this time with my “Apos” to attend my nieta’s art exhibit. But I hardly did anything outside of just being present. The twenty-somethings did all the planning, flight and tour bookings. Including all dining and shopping itineraries. Not bad. I can get used to this. We ate well, even if I thought we had too much coffee and ramen. I sat out the shopping part, but I enjoyed the new spots which the younger sets prefer. Besides, we are actually here for the Art Fair Asia Fukuoka !

Before the year ended, I joined my friends for yet another trip — to Kaohsiung in Taiwan. This is my first time here as I’ve only been to Taipei and nowhere else in Taiwan. Just a quick trip. Aside from shopping and eating, I only managed to visit Pier 2 Art Center. On 2 consecutive days, I visited the area which is just a short walk from the hotel we booked. Just as well. The pier is a massive place dotted with brick warehouses cum shopping and dining areas, and parks with very interesting art installations. I’m sure my young family members would love it here. But next visit, I’d be sure to time it during cooler temps. It’s hard to endure the sun in the open-air art spots. The afternoons by the river are more pleasant though.

Pier 2 Art Center. Kaoshiung, Taiwan.

And so, here ends 2025. How has it been? We look back with gratitude and look forward with hope. In a few, the year 2026 beckons. A third of the coming year is all planned out this early but the remainder is still there, leaving room for exploration. For adventure. For surprises. Oh, don’t we all love surprises? I am ready for the coming year. Are you? 💕🎉🙏🍾🚘💃✈️🚂🛳️⛱️🏕️⛰️🏝️


Been watching this popular tv series “Emily in Paris” during the pandemic and like many, got hooked. It starred Lily Collins as Emily with a low-key French actor named Luca Bravo as the French Chef Gabriel. An ideal role for Luca, who in reality is an aspiring chef. He may not have met with much success in his kitchen but he has many women fans now after only 2 seasons. For sure, future seasons will still revolve around his and Emily’s romantic affair which seems to be beset with roadblocks or foul timings. It’s very complicated, as they say.

The Apartment where Emily and Gabriel Live
Chef Gabriel’s Bistro

Joined this “Emily in Paris” tour guided by a cast member from the series who regaled us with many stories , and gossips even. We started at the Pantheon where the series started — with Emily on the phone with Douglas her soon ex-boyfriend. In no time, she met Chef Gabriel — that hunk of a man whose romantic liaisons are as complicated in real and reel life. Our tour had “guessing games” to earn yummy macarons provided by Luzia. Most everyone participated in the games — either they’re big fans of the tv series or they like the macarons.

The Fountain Between the Apartment Building and the French Bistro
Many lunch scenes were filmed here

The tour should have taken 2.5 hours but it took us more than 3 hours. That’s all walking from the Latin Quarter through Saint Germain des Pres crossing Pont Neuf and all the way from Notre Dame to Palace Garnier. When the tour ended, we made our way to Galerie Lafayette and thereafter to Le Bon Marche near the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal. Late lunch was at Les Mouettes in Rue du Bac where we enjoyed our meals in relative quiet. A prelude to the chaos that soon enveloped the city after riots broke out post-victory of PSG in the Champions League. Took us hours to reach our hotel as some metro lines stopped operating. Oh, what a mess. We’re only too glad we’re on the last day of our holiday. But still, it should have been a happy occasion to celebrate PSG’s victory but the merrymaking went out of hand. A pity.

A fav chat spot of Emily and Mindy
Many shots were taken here.

What’s best to come after a short camino break from Saint Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles? A visit to Lourdes where we spent 2 meaningful nights. The train ride from SJPP went easy and smooth, despite the transfer at Bayonne.

This is my 7th visit and each holds a special meaning to me. This time, with my niece and grandnephew. Their first. Reminds me of my first visit in 2002. Then as now, I feel grateful for the chance. Now more than ever, I feel this resolve to bring every member of family here. Back in 2002, I received the gift of healing and reconciliation. Quite an epiphany for me. I resolved to be a fierce prayer warrior — the best gift I can ever give anyone. Much like how I received, and still enjoy and celebrate, the gift I was blessed with. Praying for each other (and even for those I hardly know) has become my mantra. I find joy in praying. A fulfilment, even.

Lourdes. The Grotto. This is the very first time I visited where there wasn’t much of a crowd. There were a lot of young volunteers in and around the complex and I noticed the rosary procession wasn’t as long nor as thick as they were before Covid. For a while, I worried that the Church may be losing its Marian pilgrims. I snapped out of my revery only when I found this nun contently napping under a tree, oblivious to the passing crowd. God bless her.

The baths have since COVID transformed into “water gestures” except for 5 special spots. In our hearts, the faith remains and our hope and beliefs prevail. There were not too many Filipinos we met, like the previous times. I surmised it’s because the school break back home is almost over. But we found the same Filipino restaurant off some corner near the Sanctuary. Asian Delices it’s called. Again, no Filipinos though the Caucasian servers spoke really good Tagalog. Groups of Asians came to dine, mostly Chinese and Koreans. I think we were mistaken for Malaysians or Indonesians as we were offered sambal sauces.

With each visit, I pray for a next time. To pray for my family and friends. God’s mercy through the intercession of Mama Mary. This is a journey of faith. And a thanksgiving for the many gifts and countless blessings. Thank You, Lord. 🙏🙏🙏💕💕💕