Outside of Paris lies Colmar in the beautiful Alsace Region. Been in my bucket list for years, especially after looking at those lovely Alsatian Christmas markets . But what floored me more than its scenic landscape and pretty village is its true treasure, the Musee Unterlinden housed in a 13th century convent and what used to be a public baths building. The entire building keeps a massive collection but given our limited time, we concentrated on the breathtaking Isenheim Altarpiece. If only for these masterpieces by the German Renaissance painter Grunewald & carver Haguenauer, no one wonders why and how this Musee receives as many as 200,000 visitors yearly.
Collected from some churches, abbeys, convents and monasteries, the religious artworks were recently restored (2018-2022) and now on display in all its vivid colors. Impressive paintings and sculptures of the Nativity, Annunciation, Crucifixion and Resurrection were commissioned for a monastery hospital in Isenheim back in 1512-1516, and later moved to Colmar some 20 kms away in 1792 during the French Revolution.
It’s almost sinful to spend just an hour in Musee Unterlinden. Viewing the altarpieces and retablo alone can easily take 3 hours. The massive polyptych adorned the high altar of the monastery hospital’s Antonite chapel until the French Revolution. It is claimed that these masterpieces provided spiritual comfort to the sick and dying in the hospital. I haven’t heard about Grünewald and a quick search tells me he has not acquired as much fame as many Renaissance masters. Sad to think that he was not that popular then and even now but his works speak for themselves.
Lastly, the 13th century convent hosting this Musee Unterlinden is one impressive structure complete with cloisters and a basement where the public baths once were. I certainly need to brush up on this museum and its Isenheim collection as my knowledge prior to this visit is zilch. Watch this page for updates.
