Category: cruise



The whole plan involved 2 cruises. One off the Rhine River and the next aboard MSC sailing out of Barcelona. At the last minute, the Rhine Cruise was cancelled, leaving us “stranded” in Strasbourg. Thank goodness we had booked a 2nd cruise with MSC and that pushed through as scheduled. We tweaked our travel schedule so we can stay longer in our Strasbourg hotel and booked extra nights in another Barcelona hotel prior to the MSC Mediterranean cruise. Just 7 nights but with lovely ports of call one can dream of.

Inside the MSC World Europa

First port was in Marseilles in the south of France. Think panisses and bouillabaisse — Marseille’s signature seafood stew and chickpea flour fritters. We booked a walking tour here and decided on a lunch recommended by our guide. In Genoa — our 2nd port of call — we winged it on our own and heard Sunday Mass in the beautiful Cathedral of San Lorenzo, just a stone’s throw from the Chiesa del Gesu. More photos and details here.

Marseille

Genoa

Notre Dame Marseille & Vieux Port
It’s all about Focaccia in Genoa

In the past, we’d just breeze through Napoli and instead spend time in Positano, Sorrento and Capri. The Amalfi Coast is so breathtaking while Naples has gained quite a bad rap. I wasn’t confident to check out the city on my own but having crafted our own walking tour, we got off the boat and took a cab all the way to the Chiesa del Gesú Nuovo which is just a stone’s throw from the Monasterio delle Santa Chiara. Both churches run along the Spaccanapoli. We walked all the way back to the cruise terminal without any incident. Have a read.

Napoli, Italia

Taormina, Sicily

Galleria Umberto in Naples

Taormina

By the time we docked in Valletta, Malta, we were almost sad it’s our last port of call. It was a near perfect ship itinerary. From the south of France down south off Italy, with a day at sea to sail back up to Barcelona. But Malta is super impressive. It’s so small but soooo packed with history and culture. We wonder how the streets look and the vistas off the cliff after sundown when the swarming cruisers have gone back to boat.

Valletta, Malta 🇲🇹

Look at those iconic wooden closed balconies!

I spent my birthday at sea. So happened it’s the last whole day (on the boat) before disembarking in Barcelona. What a fun way to celebrate as the boat and its crew drummed up the beat before seeing us all off. Champagne and dancing all around. So much energy. Just perfect!


I don’t understand why this city gets a bad rap. All the time we were here, I never felt unsafe or threatened. Yes, the cab drivers just outside the cruise terminal were bullies without exception but we knew better and walked away. A young taxi driver then politely asked us where we’re going and we negotiated a fixed €20 cab ride with him. He drove us all the way to the front steps of Gesù Nuovo to admire its distinctive striped facade and entered the church before it closed at 1pm. Soon after, we walked a few steps to the nearby Santa Chiara but didn’t have enough time to check out its lovely tiled cloisters. Like Gesù Nuovo, it closed at 1pm. As we exited its gate, we tracked our way towards Museo Capella Sansevero on the off chance somebody cancelled a timed admission to view the Veiled Christ sculpture (Cristo Velato). Tickets were fully sold for the next 2 weeks and we can only sigh in despair we didn’t book early enough. Serves us a good excuse to head back to Naples!

Inside Gesu Nuovo
Santa Chiara

The very street straddling both Gesu Nuovo and Santa Chiara is the Spaccanapoli. We wandered the historic street, browsed the little shops and simply enjoyed the atmosphere around Piazza San Domenico Maggiore. We even found a candy store where a kindly old signore offered us his risotto, even spoon feeding us! Like good children, we opened our mouths and thanked him for the Italian rice dish. Back on the Spaccanapoli, we walked back towards Via Toledo and found an old pizzeria that has been in operation since 1833. Lunch was a Pizza Margherita and fritto mixto in this ristorante called Pizzeria Mattozzi. In operation since 1833, it stands among Napoli’s most historic culinary institutions.

Pizza Margherita and Fritto Mixto
Maradona in the Spanish Quarter

We pretty much covered our planned itinerary except for missing the Museo Capella Sansevero which was fully booked. But we chanced upon the centuries-old pizzeria that has been one of Napoli’s historic culinary institutions. This birthplace of pizza has pizzerias all over the place. And the Spanish Quarter has many tiny al fresco dining spots along narrow alleys with walls adorned by the image of the much-loved soccer legend Maradona. The numero 10 before my fav Messi. Along Via Toledo, and meandering around the narrow alleys of the Spanish Quarter, we walked back towards the cruise terminal. Passed by Galleria Umberto, a piazza and an opera house. Also the Castel Nuovo right across where our boat was docked. Don’t know much about this “new castle” but since we had time before boarding time, we dropped in and snapped some photos before bidding Napoli ciao.

Galleria Umberto
Castel Nuovo
My AI-generated Walking Map

Marseilles. Our boat docked mid morning here and we promptly disembarked soon after breakfast and cabbed all the way to Vieux Port to meet our guide at 11am. We were in luck. Our guide is a history teacher and anthropologist who is so knowledgeable in a way that didn’t sound nerdy. It helped EZ had a good sense of humour and every so often injected fun facts and trivia to his “history lessons”. I have been to Marseilles many moons ago but have not exactly explored this oldest city of France. As with Paris & Strasbourg where we earlier spent time, there were protests or “manifestations” all over. EZ guided us through streets and alleys, keeping in mind to avoid the protesters. I’d say we were always a good 5-10 minutes ahead of them — in the Town Hall or Hotel de Ville, and around the corniche in Vieux Port. We found ourselves in Hotel de Ville which was almost empty, and detoured to some side streets walking towards Le Panier.

Hotel de Ville
Protesters walking towards Hotel de Ville

We had a good run. EZ led us walking for nearly 3 hours, never losing our attention as we climbed up the hilly parts of Le Panier. This bohemian neighborhood reminded me of Montmartre in Paris . Street murals, cozy cafes, artisan shops, cobblestoned paths and laundry hanging to dry off balconies paint a very bohemian vibe. This is Marseilles’ oldest neighborhood and houses the Cathedrale de la Major. From colorful graffiti to religious edifices, Le Panier has much to offer. And it’s an easy walk from the old port.

If I were to head back to Marseilles, I’d definitely spend more time here. It would be nice to try some of the hole-in-the-wall coffee shops where one sips coffee under an artfully done mural. Or to check out the many artisan shops selling anything from soaps and souvenir items. EZ lived in Le Panier some 15 years ago when he just arrived here from Argentina, and so knew the neighborhood like the back of his hand. He had recommendations also on where to enjoy a good bouillabaisse. We heeded his advice and tried Au Bout du Quai’s bouillabaisse, panisse de aoili, and oysters. Cravings satisfied!

By the time we were ready to leave the area to get back to our boat, the protest has gone wild and it was reported that the young rioters have stormed the Hotel de Ville. Some in our group got caught in the melee and experienced some tense, tear gas moments. The taxi ranks are devoid of taxis and we were just lucky to veer off the main port road and found a cab driver drinking coffee in some obscure corner. We cabbed back in time to board our boat, happy with our adventures. And this is only our first stop on this Mediterranean Ctuise. Genoa next!

Bouillabaisse, Panisse de Aoili
Cathedrale La Major
Notre Dame at the top of a hill

Knowing we have this long trip and a very late lunch before reaching our houseboat, we woke up early and was greeted by a lovely sunrise vista. Simply beautiful 🌞 It makes us anxious that it would be another 5 hour backbreaking, butt-numbing bus ride. Our houseboat is waiting for us in Allepey. From zigzag roads hemmed in by tea fields, we navigated around mountains and hills in the same zigzag pattern. Milder though this time. 🤪 Lush forests dotted by coconut trees 🏝️and rubber trees, we passed a few towns’ temples, schools, and churches. After about an hour, we stopped to drop in at Pattumala Church, a Marian Pilgrimage Center also known as the Shrine of Our Lady of Good Health. Unique Gothic- inspired architecture, built entirely of granite, impressive interiors but I’m not a fan of the punishing staircase to reach the church from the street. Phew!

Sunrise in Thekkady
Shrine of Our Lady of Good Health or Pattumala Church

Our houseboats were ready to receive us way after lunchtime. The bus ride took nearly 5 hours. Late lunch was ready as soon as our (smaller) overnight bags were delivered to our rooms. The river cruise starts after lunch till sunset. Some took off to explore the rural town before dinner while others idled the early evening hours enjoying cocktails. Allepey is teeming with tourists eager to board ferries plying the river or hire houseboats for the night. The sound of the boat engine can lull you to sleep and houseboats plying the river make a pretty sight. I love our rooms with wide glass windows as well as the dining room with a long table that can seat 30 people. By sunset, our 3 houseboats were docked side by side that some of the boys in our groups can easily jump from one houseboat to the next off the open deck. All meals are cooked by the Chef on board. Some of us got off the boat and bought shrimps to add to the buffet dinner of Keralan cuisine.

Houseboat gliding along the river in Allepey
Vista from the deck

This sleeper houseboat is quite an experience. We are only too glad that we have Chef on Board and that the rooms are sized just right. I can imagine Ernest Hemingway hiring a one room houseboat, having early evening cocktails with the boat staff, perhaps even writing a whole book here. Very calming. Balm for the soul. Just what we need.

You can hold a board meeting here!
Sunset in Allepey 📸Eman Capuno

With so many sea days aboard Celebrity Edge, we needed to line up activities to keep us off the buffet counters and fancy restaurants. Not so easy. The food beckons and we’re not exactly keen on pool activities with the wind blowing out at sea. The theatre offerings provided entertainment and there’s the games and shopping to distract us. The cabin’s verandah provided scenic distractions too but again, the wind and chill factors often kept us off it.

A Shrimp Tower

Panoramic Views off the verandah

What to do? The dining scene is overwhelming. There were 4 complimentary fancy restos — the Normandie, Cyprus, Tuscan and Cosmopolitan and the more casual Eden, Mast Grill, Spa Cafe and Oceanview Buffet Resto. We likewise tried the Le Grand Bistro for the special Le Petit Chef dinner but I skipped the Raw on 5 sushi place. There were more, but I was quite happy with the ones I’ve tried. As for entertainment, there were concerts every night and some educational /informative talks but I like best the talks by Captain Matt and that of the Cruise Director especially that part where they talked about their lockdown experience for 8 months! Oh yes, the pandemic truly wreaked havoc to the cruise industry. Imagine these good men and women as “prisoners” in their own boat. They used the Celebrity app to communicate with each other, locked in their cabins and seeing each other only on screens. Awful. But they endured, through games and costume/themed “parties” just to amuse each other. There were more talks — ranging from trivia on jellyfish or “jellies”, to global finance, artificial intelligence and destination experiences. It is easy to fill up one’s personal calendar by signing up for all these events. And if one is coming aboard alone, there are solo travellers meet-ups!

Early this year, the Celebrity was made a subsidiary of the Royal Caribbean Group. I’ve cruised with Royal Caribbean before and find the same brand of service in my first experience with the Celebrity Cruises. So if you’re curious if I’m cruising with this group again, the answer is yes. Perhaps with my family next time. Cruising is a fine bonding adventure for families and good friends. An opportunity to spend 24/7 for at least a week, without mundane duties like fixing meals and housekeeping. Not unlike doing staycations with your loved ones and attending concerts every night. Not unlikely to find it a chore to be “on dates” at short intervals and dining fancy every single night, so it’s best to craft a plan. There is variety in the entertainment department and if one needs solitude, you can always stay in your room or stay in one of the deck chairs reading a book. So there. ⛴️


On a single sea day, our cruise ship passed the Dusky Sound, Doubtful Sound and Milford Sound. The first was allegedly teeming with wildlife and I had my fingers and toes crossed we’d have the luck to spot an albatross or a pod of dolphins. Or even fur seals. Not so lucky in that department but the 3 fiords are all so beautiful especially the last. We cruised passing snow-capped and rocky mountains and verdant rainforests alongside smaller boats out with tourists waving from their decks. The whole “sound visits” started at 8am till 4pm but we were slightly delayed leaving Milford Sound as one of the passengers on our ship had a medical emergency. I appreciate that the Celebrity crew was most efficient in handling the emergency and that Captain Matt Karandreas even went on the P. A. system to update us that all’s well. 

Milford Sound

Of the 3, Milford Sound is the crown jewel. We felt welcomed by a panoramic view of majestic waterfalls and rocky peaks. Because the ship actually cruised in and turned around to exit out, we saw both sides of the sound from our cabin’s verandah. We decided against going up the viewing points from the poolside deck or the solarium to avoid the cold breeze and splashes from the sea waves and even from the swimming pools! Crossing the Tasman Sea into and out of New Zealand can be an ordeal but we were in luck cruising from Sydney towards New Zealand.  This time around, the return trip met higher, wilder swells and fiercer winds. Our Captain Matt Karandreas (from the beautiful country of Greece) gave a talk on how the ship navigates the waters and more interestingly, about himself. What a charming man especially as he articulated what really happens while cruising and the decisions only the Captain can make. His self-confidence, competence and seeming decisiveness reassured us that The Edge has “the edge” in this maritime industry. It is my first cruise with Celebrity Cruises so that is comforting.


We anchored at one of the largest and island-dotted natural harbours in New Zealand. Tauranga welcomed us with cloudy skies and what looked like a truly busy port. After all, it is close to the world’s Kiwi fruit capital, Te Puke. Am not a big fan of kiwi, but the ones I tried on the boat are very sweet and tasty such that it adorned my plate every single day. We are visiting Tauranga just a day before the Remembrance and Veterans Day and our boat will honor it with a moment of silence. Reminds me of those earlier visits to Gallipoli in Turkey and Omaha Bay in Normandy. Lest we forget! I have only deep respect for  these men and women and likewise to those, who to this day, compel us to remember. We should remember. 

We did the hiking trail and enjoyed sweating out all those accumulated calories we consumed by non-stop eating on the boat. I stayed away from meat as much as I could but the desserts are another story. Like ordering 2 starters, skipping the main entrees but failing to resist the ice cream or sorbet, eclairs, or panna cottas. Frankly, the hike hardly dented nor offset all that food intake but we certainly enjoyed the scenery and the workout. And then we got bolder with a trike ride around town, breezing through the coastal roads with our “daredevil pilot” Michael who called us ladies Dorothy 1,2 and 3. Now, there’s a private joke behind that and we’d rather keep it private. 🤫 For a 30 minute trike run, we paid NZ$195 including tax and boy, did we ladies have fun! Wanted to do this as early as our first offshore excursion to Pahia in the Bay of Islands but I guess, the adventure had to happen here in Tauranga instead. 

“Daredevil Michael” took us to the oldest tree in all of New Zealand, the kiwi factory offices, the campus, the posh waterfront houses (selling for NZ$13.5 Million!) and the streets lined with interesting cafes and restaurants. He also pointed out the many trees abundantly grown there which they they simply call Kiwi Christmas trees but he’s not sure why. His guess is that it’s called that because they grow bright red flowers around the end of the year, adding to the festive season. From time to time, he’d rev up the engine and let us girls feel the breeze like we’re racing, much to our screaming delight. At our age, it’s something we ticked off our list to do. Well, don’t judge us. We simply wanted to feel somehow reckless while having fun. All around town, we waved to people who looked like they came off the same cruise ship. Many waved back. The cruisers are in town but will soon sail out! 

Hey, I’m writing this in a rush just to chronicle our doings here. Forgive the typo and other errors. Will edit, polish when wifi connection is more stable. Likely after the cruise. See ya!