It’s the Anzac weekend here in Australia and we’re spending it in Culburra Beach . Booked a 4 bedroom beachfront cottage good for our entire family plus pets. Reminded me of our Lake Conjola weekends until my nephew lost the lake house in a New Year’s Eve bushfire 🥲 The temp’s dropping and this tropical dame started worrying over her inadequate wardrobe. Having arrived here over a month ago with clothing good for only 3 days and hardly any fit for chilly mornings, I had to make do with a borrowed hoodie, fleece coat and puffer jacket. No chance I’d be out there in the sandy beach with the dogs. From beach end to end, it’s a 5 kilometer stretch and one has many spot options to watch the sun rise or set. I can choose to stay out with the kids and pets while the rest of family preps our meals. A perfect way to shun kitchen duties, but one has to endure the cold. Not exactly a brilliant idea to chill (pardon the pun) 🥶
Culburra Beach in the South Coast
We brought 2 dogs and 2 guinea pigs with us. I wonder if they’re excited to spot a pod of dolphins here or a romp at the beach is enough to make them happy. Maybe we’d all be lucky to even spot whales? Gritting my teeth as the cold wind blows, I remember previous beach weekends in Narooma, Kiama, Jervis Bay and Anna Bay. My OZ family is very outdoorsy and the men are very much into rock climbing and bush walking. Like we can talk the whole evening just talking about hiking shoes and sneakers. As for the women? We talk about the men and their idiosyncrasies 🤣 And between my sister and me, we have a long history to recall.
Culburra SunriseOur crib for the AnZac weekend
So you get the drift. This family weekend trip is all we need to chatter endlessly, stroll the beach, walk the dogs and feast on Filipino food like Trump finally managed to start World War III. You’d be shocked to find our food stash being unloaded from the car trunks. A weekend? You’d think we’d be here for 2 weeks! But that’s par for the course. If there’s something we typically overdo, it is in the feeding department. Culburra just happens to be the chosen destination and chilly or not, we’re here to have a fun weekend.
Back in the city in time for the Sydney Biennale 2026 titled “Rememory” which runs till June 14. That gives me enough time to visit most of the biennale venues, starting with the Art Gallery of New South Wales within The Domain near the Botanical Gardens and the Saint Mary’s Cathedral. The other venues for the Biennale of Sydney begs subsequent visits and thankfully, I have all the time. Thankfully too, admission is free and judging by the attendance on this first visit, not too crowded. The gallery has 2 buildings and the biennale exhibits are housed in the lower level of the smaller building. Without missing a beat, we proceeded to check out the Ngurrara Canvas II which is an 80-square meter floor canvas created in 1997 by 43 artists from the Great Sandy Desert in Western Australia. The artwork represents the “living map” of waterholes and song lines claimed as evidence in native title proceedings. Song lines, you ask? Think Australia being “mapped” by this rather unique, albeit strange method practiced by aborigines through song, dance, art and story. Navigation across Australia’s territories is guided by song cycles in specific order tracking landmarks that define boundaries. Amazing, isn’t it? I’m floored!
The Art Gallery of New South WalesNgurrara Canvas II
The impressive canvas may be the largest Aboriginal painting made by Western Desert artists. Just imagine how this piece of art was created and presented to the National Native Title Tribunal to support the Ngurrara people’s claims for native titles. It is regarded as the last time the floor canvas will travel away from its Western Australian home and as such, the final chance for Sydneysiders to see this very rare and meaningful work of art and piece of history.
Ngurrara Canvas II from the opposite side. Ngurrara, Up Close
“Rememory” as the theme for the 25th Biennale of Sydney marks this city Down Under as the host of the largest contemporary art event in the whole of Australia. The large scale installations alone are quite an experience, but do not diminish the smaller but equally bold artworks on display. In the hall where Ngurrara Canvas II is laid out, it is very difficult to just focus on the floor canvas as the paintings hanging around the hall’s walls and the installations adorning the corners compete for serious attention. On canvas or fabric, it is hardcore creativity.
I will most definitely be back here in the Art Gallery of NSW, not just for the biennale but also for the many artworks on exhibit in this gallery. A couple of hours won’t cut it. This will require repeated visits which I plan to do. Meanwhile, let me check the other biennale venues:
White Bay Power Station
Chau Chak Wing Museum at the University of Sydney
It has been a week since I arrived here in Sydney. From the airport, Ate (older sister) whizzed me to Casula where the rest of the family waited. The barbecue night was fun, with many of the younger members now towering over us seniors. My Ate’s children are obviously much older now with some thinking of retirement in about a decade. I know, a decade may sound like a long time, but in my experience time flies fast. Like this is only my 2nd Easter in Australia and I still remember the egg hunt with the then much younger apos (grandkids). How did they grow tall and old so fast? Obviously, we’re not planning any Easter egg hunt anymore. Rather, it’d be a party complete with a bar. Yes, a bar. But I’m getting ahead of my story. It won’t be Holy Week till next, and till then, I’m here to check out a niece’s new pad, shop for clothes as I only brought stuff good for 3 days, accompany Ate on her medical consultations, and simply laze around.
Touchdown, SydneyAte Levs playing the piano for me.
The next few days meant recovering from my flights as I just returned from Kerala, India, stayed in Manila a couple of weeks before flying to Sydney. It’s only been a week here but I’ve “cased the joint” around my niece’s new pad in Merrylands. I’ve walked to and heard masses in the 2 churches nearest our crib, checked the train routes to the city and Ate’s home while enjoying the trains breezing in and out of the station, surveyed the offers from the neighborhood fruit and veggie stores as well as butcher shops and bakeshops. The new pad is a pleasant surprise. The balcony view is perfect even if one needs to strain to see the Harbor bridge from a distance. I can imagine the New Year’s Eve fireworks seen from this balcony. And the neighborhood? No way you’d get bored especially if you’re a shopper. The nearby mall and interesting coffee and deli bars need some fierce willpower to resist. My only wish is the coffee shops are nearer to the church and park area. That would have been really nice.
View from the BalconyOur Crib
A choice of 3 supermarkets in one mall. And a spattering of Thai, Indian, Turkish, Lebanese, Persian, Singaporean-Chinese dining spots. Have yet to see a Vietnamese and Japanese restaurant but I’m sure there are. The food chain giants are here too — KFC, McDonald’s and Hungry Jack. I see “Halal” shops in every corner and a 7-Eleven meets stiff competition from the many interesting mom and pop tiny stores. Thus far, I’ve tried the Thai Resto, the Turkish Gozleme shop, the crispy fried chicken house across our flat, the Lebanese roast chicken, Chinese takeaways, the fish and chips, and the yogurt.
Wish the little kid heads back to find these toys he left in Saint Margaret Mary’s Church in Merrylands, NSWLovely flower bouquets. Not cheap, though.
Ate Levy visits from time to time and I try to include a church visit (and mass, whenever possible) when I do my daily walks either in the morning or just before dinner. I’m catching up with my readings and have just put down a book. There’s also my personal journals to jot down my musings and ramblings like what I’m doing now. On a daily basis, I’m in touch with family back home (in Manila) and thank technology for this. Like we can literally talk to each other while having breakfast or brunch. For the first time in a long time, I need not worry about zoom meetings now since I’ve walked away from my professional commitments. As I reflect on my recent decisions, I am only grateful that I find myself in this path where He wanted me to be. Detached. And more present. The simple life suits me. And I’m happier for it.
We’re home now. Nature-tripping in the southern part of India was nourishing to the soul. We weren’t so lucky with the wildlife sightings but that’s alright. I’m not exactly that eager to spot a tiger. Nor an elephant. The only Ellie I found was in this spot near the theater where we watched a Kathakali Show. Sadly, the elephants here were used for “rides” through the nearby forest. Sad. 😞
Our group photo by the Lake Kundala
So, it’s a wrap. South India from Cochin to Munnar’s tea estates to Thekkady’s wildlife sanctuaries to Alleppey’s backwaters. Swell. Here are the links to my blogs on Kerala:
This is my 2nd trip to India, my 1st to Kerala. Admittedly, the first few days did not overwhelm as there was so much time wasted on bus rides. As we drove 4-5 hours each journey from Cochin to Munnar to Thekkady to Allepey, the joy of travel was only enhanced by good company and shopping. I’m NOT a shopper but I don’t mind tagging along or waiting while others shop and dump their bags of purchases by my feet while I sip my coffee or wine in some bar. Problem was I never enjoyed the coffee here. And alcohol isn’t as available as one wanted in this corner of the world. The whole trip we only enjoyed our wine in the hotels and found the coffee in Spice Village in Thekkady, Kumily as acceptable. I honestly wished this was our hotel as it has a sprawling garden, a good buffet spread, good coffee and a stone’s throw from the bazaars!
Bags of all sizesCtto: Enan Capulo
Shopping was good anywhere in India. I still remember the sarees and kurta I bought from my first trip. This time, the big tote bags and clutch bags filled my suitcase along with the black tea with masala from the tea gardens of Munnar. No shopping in Allepey though as we were happily on “houseboat arrest”. These were the tranquil moments before reaching Cochin where the adrenaline rush started pumping again because of the shopping options. From bags to shawls to purses and tote bags to bangles to paper products to table linen. And for the serious shoppers, the handicrafts and jewelries.
Srishti ProductsSrishti Paper Products
There were lovely pants and skirts to choose from. Very Indian. In vibrant hues and exotic patterns. Matched with lovely and colorful duppati which can be worn loosely like a shawl. Almost always, our pee stops included some shopping outbursts. Well, you’d never know what you’d find in the most unusual places. But I did find shopping in Shristi Charitable Trust in Munnar the most meaningful. The products are made by underprivileged children under the Trust’s care. Beautiful products like paper from different non-wood materials. The Trust is dedicated to the upliftment of these children through education, skills development and health care. God bless them 🙏
We arrived back in Cochin by noontime to catch our midnight homeward flight to Manila. Enough time to do a 2nd pass of the Kochi Muziris Biennale 2026. The first visit was in a small, restricted venue called David Hall, an art gallery cum cafe. But on our next shot of the Kochi Biennale, we visited the main exhibition in Aspinwall House, a waterfront heritage mansion that used to be the headquarters of a British trader of spices, coffee, rubber and coir. Distinctively Dutch colonial in style, Aspinwall House is now a major cultural hub typically open to the public during the biennale. A fine choice for the prestigious exhibition, with its white-painted buildings, high ceilings, and large verandahs. On one side are verandahs looking out to sea and the inner courtyard is littered with leaves crunching as people step on them. Spotted around 5 old ladies sweeping the leaves all afternoon we were there. A pretty, mesmerizing sight.
Aspinwall House. This all white seafront mansion is the primary venue for the Kochin – Muziris Biennale 2026 titled “For The Time Being”.Sweepers around Aspinwall House
I do not know the artists but this once in 2 years biennale is certainly well-curated and couldn’t have chosen a better venue for its primary hub. The Dutch colonial heritage house is so pretty in all its whiteness and gabled facade. It was just a short line to get in and we found many local visitors to this biggest contemporary art festival in the whole of Asia. 66 artists from 25 countries. 29 venues. We could have spent more time but had to squeeze in some last minute shopping before rushing to the airport to catch our flight. A pity. I particularly liked the series of etched copper plates suspended from the high ceiling made by Delhi-born and now Sydney-based artist Kirtika Kain. Very evocative.
A series of etched copper plates suspended from the high ceiling of Aspinwall House made by Delhi-born and now Sydney-based artist Kirtika Kain.Another evocative installation made by Panjeri Artists Union, an anti-caste collective organized in 2021 in West Bengal near the India and Bangladesh border. Handwoven fabrics made by manual labor replaced by mechanical weaving machines. The message is deep, provocative and a tad heartbreaking.
The works on exhibit evoked many socio-political undertones. The social-cultural backgrounds of the participating artists may have a lot to do with that but in my book, there is so much to learn about Indian history.Prompts me to read and learn more about this fascinating nation of over one billion. So much to research and my curiosity crosses beyond the era of maharajahs and more into more recent Indian history.The art pieces have deep, profoundmessages that may be easily missed because of the beauty and colors of the artworks. Yay, I wish we had at least another whole day to spend in Cochin. The Biennale was a pleasant surprise and I’m only too glad we timed our trip well. But there’s so much more to explore in this busy port city, not to mention the exotic cafes, seafood stalls and great shopping!
Brightly illuminated installations of carnivorous flowers by Dhiraj Rabha, a visual artist from Assam, India. Title: The Quiet Weight of Shadows . Dhiraj reflects on his childhood in Goalpara Camp. This was taken in David Hall near Fort Kochi Beach. Another Dutch colonial house we visited on our first day in Cochin. Another biennale venue — there were 29 — all across Fort Kochi. Now operates as an art gallery and cafe.
Knowing we have this long trip and a very late lunch before reaching our houseboat, we woke up early and was greeted by a lovely sunrise vista. Simply beautiful 🌞 It makes us anxious that it would be another 5 hour backbreaking, butt-numbing bus ride. Our houseboat is waiting for us in Allepey. From zigzag roads hemmed in by tea fields, we navigated around mountains and hills in the same zigzag pattern. Milder though this time. 🤪 Lush forests dotted by coconut trees 🏝️and rubber trees, we passed a few towns’ temples, schools, and churches. After about an hour, we stopped to drop in at Pattumala Church, a Marian Pilgrimage Centeralso known as the Shrine of Our Lady of Good Health. Unique Gothic- inspired architecture, built entirely of granite, impressive interiors but I’m not a fan of the punishing staircase to reach the church from the street. Phew!
Sunrise in Thekkady Shrine of Our Lady of Good Health or Pattumala Church
Our houseboats were ready to receive us way after lunchtime. The bus ride took nearly 5 hours. Late lunch was ready as soon as our (smaller) overnight bags were delivered to our rooms. The river cruise starts after lunch till sunset. Some took off to explore the rural town before dinner while others idled the early evening hours enjoying cocktails. Allepey is teeming with tourists eager to board ferries plying the river or hire houseboats for the night. The sound of the boat engine can lull you to sleep and houseboats plying the river make a pretty sight. I love our rooms with wide glass windows as well as the dining room with a long table that can seat 30 people. By sunset, our 3 houseboats were dockedside by side that some of the boys in our groups can easily jump from one houseboat to the next off the open deck. All meals are cooked by the Chef on board. Some of us got off the boat and bought shrimps to add to the buffet dinner of Keralan cuisine.
Houseboat gliding along the river in AllepeyVista from the deck
This sleeper houseboat is quite an experience. We are only too glad that we have Chef on Board and that the rooms are sized just right. I can imagine Ernest Hemingway hiring a one room houseboat, having early evening cocktails with the boat staff, perhaps even writing a whole book here. Very calming. Balm for the soul. Just what we need.
You can hold a board meeting here!Sunset in Allepey 📸Eman Capuno
It took over 4 hours by bus from Munnar to Thekkady. The zigzag journey was only broken by photo ops as we passed more tea gardens left and right of the uphill road. Kerala is truly India’s tea capital. We never expected how extensive the tea plantations are, like a green carpet over the hills all around Kerala. As my grandniece said, it’s like Royce Matcha Chocolates spread all over the place. The patterns make me curiousas the carpets of tea fieldsnever seem to end.
The road to Thekkady. 📸 @eman capuno
Kathakali Show in Thekkady
The night we arrived, we went to watch a centuries-old Kathakali show. The classical dance drama retells stories from Hindu epics without any dialogue. The entire tale is expressed through facial expressions that really seemed like facial contortions, as well as symbolic hand gestures. Only two characters, plus a narrator and the music/drummer man. The theater setting is very simple, yet intimate. Glad they continue to show these aspects of their culture. After all, Kathakali started right here in Kerala since the 17th century. 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
Boat Safaris in Periyar Lake
The following morning was all foggy amidst the sound of chirping birds in the hotel where we stayed. We spent the morning on a boat safari cruising Periyar Lake for some wildlife sightings. I wish I can write we spotted some tigers or elephants but we didn’t. And frankly we weren’t hopeful we would. But we spotted some birds, deer and wild boars. The lake cruise took less than 2 hours and in our safari boat, most visitors are locals — from Mumbai and New Delhi. Met a pair of British tourists, but I didn’t see many more. I wonder how lucky others were in spotting tigers. I learned there are only about 40 of them. Must be a truly elusive adventure.
The Snakebird
The birds looked really pretty. Must be a birdwatchers’ haven. There were storks too but forgive me, I can’t name them birds 😞. There were also deer and wild boars but the images are quite blurry from a distance. While cruising though, we welcomed the peace and quiet as we passed tree stumps where some birds we can’t name took rest. Like these lovely birds, these travelers need some slow-time too after those backbreaking long bus rides. The pee breaks were a challenge as there were not too many options to stop and have a proper tea and pee break. But this we all admit — shopping here is soooo good. Even non-shoppers like me would be tempted. So there. You know what it’s like!
Munnar is known as the tea capital of Kerala. It took us 4 hours to drive from Cochin to Munnar with at least 3 pitstops. Reminded us of trips to Baguio, our country’s summer capital as we passed waterfalls, visited a Spices Garden and sensed the temps dropping. A long day as we settled in our hotel to prep for the next 2 days visiting tea plantations amidst misty hills and placid lakes. While we found time to enjoy cooler temps, we weren’t prepared for the zigzag drives climbing hills along narrow roads. We can hardly look as buses and cars glide past each other with only a few inches between them. Not even the green, verdant hills and serene lakes can calm our nerves as traffic grew congested while tracking steep roads and navigating sharp curves. These Keralan drivers are simply good and patient, like tight situations are par for the course.
Admittedly, we lost a lot of time because of the slow traffic. Our driver and guide tried to push it all the way to the top hill station. The Echo Point by the lake is where we stopped to stretch our limbs and vocal cords. True, the sounds reverberated as we shouted out names, and some Pinoy inanities. Another challenging episode were the trips to the loo. And if something weird or crazy is about to happen, you bet it will happen to me. But that’s another story I hope my travel mates will not repeat outside our group 🤣
Echo Point. Ctto: TrishaGroup Shot by the lake. ctto: Eman
Today, we’re headed to a Tea Museum and perhaps a stroll in the nearby tea gardens. Will update this blog after today’s visit! See ya.
Update: Went to the Tea Museum and to Srishti, a charitable trust and welfare institute — a haven for specially-abled children of Munnar’s plantation workers. It aims to prepare and empower these children for life where they can positively contribute to society by learning skills like traditional craft techniques. Some of us bought fabric, bakery products, traditional apparel, paper products made from the fiber of non-wood raw materials like tea leaves, bananas, coffee, papyrusand marigold flowers. The day after, we saw more tea gardens and some locals asking to have photos with them. I find that very warm and welcoming. As for the tea gardens, my apo said they remind her of Royce matcha chocolates cut neatly into tiny rectangles. Hmmmm, you know, she is actually right.
The drive took 4 hours from Kochi to Munnar, taunted as the “Kashmir of Southern India”. We broke the 120 kilometer journey with several pitstops, the first one being only after a half hour to visit the Hill Palace Museum in Tripunithura. The largest archaeological museum in Kerala is just 12 kilometers away from Kochi but traffic can be so bad in this corner of the world. By the time we arrived, we found many local tourists, largely older ladies elegantly garbed in sarees. We joined them locals in climbing up the many steps to reach the palace museum where we were required to take off our shoes to walk inside few of the many buildings within the complex. The first building we entered is the former residence of the Cochin Maharaja. Housed here is a huge royal elephant statue crafted from rosewood and bearing original ivory tusks. It’s a beautiful seated elephant statue, an impressive example of Keralan craftsmanship . Built in 1865 by the Maharaja of Cochin, the Cochin royal family ceded ownership to the Kerala government in 1980. Judging by how the rich collection of royal artifacts, royal jewels, weapons, antique furniture, old photos, ancient manuscripts and royal carts are artfully displayed and curated, the government of Kerala has done a good job of preserving Kerala’s heritage for future generations.
The former residence of the Cochin royal family is now the Hill Palace Museum, just 12 kilometers from Kochi. Those are real ivory tusks attached to the seated elephant statue crafted from rosewood.
The former royal palace has a very elegant architecture. We love the windows and doors as much as we love the floorboards and tiles. Outside, the gardens are another thing. Even to this day, the palace looks “lived in” unlike palatial edifices echoing in its emptiness. The ambience is warm, and those tiles look like many happily stepped on them. Well, I sure hope so. With the death of the last Maharaja in 1964 and the complex growing into disrepair, the palace complex being transformed into a palace museum served to preserve Kerala’s heritage and culture.
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