Marseilles. Our boat docked mid morning here and we promptly disembarked soon after breakfast and cabbed all the way to Vieux Port to meet our guide at 11am. We were in luck. Our guide is a history teacher and anthropologist who is so knowledgeable in a way that didn’t sound nerdy. It helped EZ had a good sense of humour and every so often injected fun facts and trivia to his “history lessons”. I have been to Marseilles many moons ago but have not exactly explored this oldest city of France. As with Paris & Strasbourg where we earlier spent time, there were protests or “manifestations” all over. EZ guided us through streets and alleys, keeping in mind to avoid the protesters. I’d say we were always a good 5-10 minutes ahead of them — in the Town Hall or Hotel de Ville, and around the corniche in Vieux Port. We found ourselves in Hotel de Ville which was almost empty, and detoured to some side streets walking towards Le Panier.


We had a good run. EZ led us walking for nearly 3 hours, never losing our attention as we climbed up the hilly parts of Le Panier. This bohemian neighborhood reminded me of Montmartre in Paris . Street murals, cozy cafes, artisan shops, cobblestoned paths and laundry hanging to dry off balconies paint a very bohemian vibe. This is Marseilles’ oldest neighborhood and houses the Cathedrale de la Major. From colorful graffiti to religious edifices, Le Panier has much to offer. And it’s an easy walk from the old port.


If I were to head back to Marseilles, I’d definitely spend more time here. It would be nice to try some of the hole-in-the-wall coffee shops where one sips coffee under an artfully done mural. Or to check out the many artisan shops selling anything from soaps and souvenir items. EZ lived in Le Panier some 15 years ago when he just arrived here from Argentina, and so knew the neighborhood like the back of his hand. He had recommendations also on where to enjoy a good bouillabaisse. We heeded his advice and tried Au Bout du Quai’s bouillabaisse, panisse de aoili, and oysters. Cravings satisfied!


By the time we were ready to leave the area to get back to our boat, the protest has gone wild and it was reported that the young rioters have stormed the Hotel de Ville. Some in our group got caught in the melee and experienced some tense, tear gas moments. The taxi ranks are devoid of taxis and we were just lucky to veer off the main port road and found a cab driver drinking coffee in some obscure corner. We cabbed back in time to board our boat, happy with our adventures. And this is only our first stop on this Mediterranean Ctuise. Genoa next!













































































