Category: Food Trip


WABI-SABI: What Can I Say?


In an earlier blog, I shared our latest discovery. The Collective. Hip, Twisted, Quirky. In this complex located in Malugay Street in Makati, we found a number of food establishments lining the graffiti-filled walls. My “elves” took turns having their photos amidst all that art painted on walls.

 

 

 

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When we first visited, my “elves” extracted a promise from me to head back to dine in this complex. They had their eyes set on Wabi-Sabi. Obviously a play on the words “Wasabi” and “Wala akong masabi”. The elves didn’t have long to wait. In a week’s time, we were back.

 

 

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The tiny place had only about 5 tables. Menu spelled out on blackboards hanging above the counters and printed on hard paper much like many Japanese eateries. But it wasn’t at all ALL JAPANESE. For noodle soups, there’s a choice between Vietnamese Phô and Japanese Shoyu Ramen. Or one can choose the simple clear Miso soup. Vegetarians would love it here. The mushroom siomai was so good we had seconds. Then there’s the cuapao and 2 kinds of siopao. My elves claim the Milk Tea is sooo good. I was quite content with my Lemon Grass tea as well. Now, you’d likely wonder. Is this a food blog without the food photos? Well…….mi apologia. Those kids were quick to the draw! No chance to snap photos! 😄

 

 

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When my “elves” asked me to take them to this place day after day, I knew they wouldn’t stop until I give in. Telling me to buy film from here for their Polaroid cam was a lame excuse. I knew there was more to this than a Polaroid film.

 

 

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Non-descript Frontage of The Collective

 

Entrance through a narrow alley opened up to a spacious court hemmed in by walls painted with surreal art. The shops within this gym-like structure have the most brilliant titles or names. Certainly for the hip, unpretentious crowd. Thought-provoking… As with the art plastered on the walls.

 

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Very artsy, don’t you think?

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My “Elves” took turns having themselves photographed here.

 

 

There are a number of dining options here. Don’t be surprised to know the elves extracted a promise from me to head back for either late lunch or snacks here. They’re eyeing some of these curious eateries.

 

 

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Art On Walls.

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Will try out this place next time.

 

 

Quite honestly, I do like the place. Artsy, yes. Slightly twisted, yes. Irreverent, very. Yet there’s something about the place that makes you feel comfortable. The rock stools I found odd, yet ingenious. The painted walls and irreverent signs remind me of some Parisian scenes. The whole place is very Bohemian.

 

 

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Very Hip, indeed.

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Ingenuity. These rock stools may not be comfortable though, per one of the elves.

 

 

Though not exactly new, this is yet another hangout for the young and artistically-inclined. I’m neither. Yet I know I’d be back. With the elves. And then with the not-so-young to check out some of the food joints.

 

 

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All reasonably priced, I assure you.

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Check out the menu on the right!

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Here you go. Menu of Kubyertos.

 

 

Friday and Saturday nights must be busy nights. I can imagine a rock band playing while foodies check out the tiny cramped food joints. So…. Is it a date?

 

 

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Love this alley!

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Coffee & Saints is a coffee shop run by the Don Bosco PUGAD, a project for migrant youth from all over the country. Other projects include bread making and water filtering stations where young men aged 17-21 gain technical skills and self-worth.

 

 

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You’d find the coffee shop right beside the Don Bosco Church and within the church compound and parking lot. In my earlier blog, I wrote about a few of its simple menu offerings. Today, the tiny coffee shop now offers home-cooked meals at very affordable prices. Check out these daily offerings through the photos below.

 

 

 

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Remember how we used to troop to Amicí just outside the church compound after hearing mass? At the time, it was just a simple “carinderia” with great pasta offerings and many gelato flavors. Well, Coffee & Saints is no trattoria and no, they only offer Pinoy everyday meals. But from the “Silog” series come these comfort food at prices well within one’s budget. Who says you can’t enjoy home-cooked comfort food while staying frugal? Plus the tiny dining place is tidy, packed with ambience, and manned by eager to please migrant youth.

 

 

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And if you’re still stuck with Coffee & Saints’ original “Silog series”, they’re still available. EVERYDAY. Same with their desserts, except that some of the “Kakanin” are available only at certain hours of the day. Me? I promise to try a new dish every visit along with my “standard daing na bangus”. And if you don’t care for their desserts, ask for the Pugad cookies priced at P20 each. There are cookies flavored with malunggay or ashitaba leaves. The same leaves you’d find in your ginisang mongo and dinuguan dishes.

 

 

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And oh, don’t forget to try their Barako coffee or the chocolate batirol. The Pugad boys will cheerfully serve them while you’re waiting for your orders. Bless these boys. God bless you too for patronizing this place!

 

 

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COFFEE & SAINTS


I’m very happy with my parish. St. John Bosco Parish along Arnaiz Avenue and Amorsolo Street in Makati gives so much to its community and involves itself in many issues affecting everyday life. Never passive. Very pro-active. My kind of parish.

 

 

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Today, I’m even happier. Right within the church compound, on the left side of the church, and claiming a corner off the church parking lot is a coffee shop manned by migrant youth. Coffee & Saints is a one-of-a-kind coffee shop. Just a few tables, a very simple menu, and a cheerful staff who’d bid you “God bless you” as you leave. What’s more, it is very cheap that I had to ask the waiter if they ever make money.

 

 

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After the noontime mass, I dropped in on Coffee & Saints and ordered a meal consisting of coffee, 3 pandesals and a cheese omelette. All that for P65. You will also find other combo meals like longsilog, corned beef , bangus, etc with a cup of Barako brew for the same price or slightly more. And there’s Colly de Don Bosco, much like French Toast with ham filling. Goes well with a cup of Cappuccino. While waiting for your meal, you may want to browse through some books on saints. Better still, drop in on the Parish Store and buy Fr. Faroni’s books for only P25-75. Yes, that dirt cheap. I bought a couple of books for only P100!

 

 

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So, next time you are in the area, how about dropping by Coffee & Saints? Bring your friends. Enjoy the pandesals or cookies baked by the Pugad boys. (In 2002, PUGAD started a new apostolate for migrant youth, or poor young men, ages 17 to 21, who take technical skills training at the Manpower Training Department of Don Bosco Technical Institute. Most come from the outskirts of Metro Manila and far-flung provinces and PUGAD has become a haven where they can study and work with ease and comfort.) Don’t expect top-class service though and leave room for the boys’ learning curve. It’s the least you can do to help this Parish which is so committed to the plight of the migrant youth. Help them. Encourage them. Bless them.

 

 

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Whatever you do, do from the heart,
as for the LORD and not for others…
— Colossians 3: 23


Was it an authentic boma dinner? Who’s to tell? I love it. Bush dinner under open starlit skies only African nights can offer. Listening to the rhythm of African drums as the aroma from various meats grilling to perfection wafted through the thin dusty air. Curries stewing in open metal pots. Camp fires and blankets failing to keep us warm.

 

 

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Campfires at 6 Celsius? Hand me that blanket!

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Steaming hot. Just the way we want it.

 

 

The drum beats and a motley group of singers and dancers entertained us in the Entabeni Private Game Reserve. So, this is what dining in the bush is all about. Another “experience” tucked under our belt. Hard to appreciate then because of the cold. Too cold that the thought that a beast may lurk somewhere in the dark hardly mattered. Too dark that we hardly cared what exotic meat we may be eating.

 

 

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Interactive Drum Session. (I’d rather dance)

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Medium Rare. Perfection.

 

 

But it must be said. They sure know how to do their steaks here in Africa. In Tribes in the Emperor Palace Complex in Jo’burg where we dined, I enjoyed my 300 gram rump so much. Before that, the Congo Wild Mushroom topped with creamed spinach and cheese is “to die for”. Better than Portabello, if you ask me.

 

 

 

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Order the Congo Mushrooms and the Rump. You won’t regret it. Then some Malva Pudding as African dessert.

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Malva Pudding on your lower left, folks.

 

 

And how about all those exotic meats in the buffet spreads in Zambezi Sun Hotel? The crocodile meat I found rather bland. But the Impala and Kudu meat…. Now, that’s real game dish I won’t pass up. Better than the biltongs, boerewors, kudu pies and ostrich bobotie I’ve tried in the Western Cape. (The springbok pie in Berluda Farmhouse is still tops)

 

 

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Choose your WILD!

 

For the life of me, I never thought I’d fall for antelope meat that much. The Zambezi fish was so good yet I just couldn’t pass up the exotic meats. Guess I knew they’re to be “experienced” best here than anywhere else. Truly, the “taste of Africa”. Speaking of which, I didn’t fail to visit the store by the same name to take home some pâtés made from the same exotic meats: crocodile, impala, kudu, ostrich, springbok.

 

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Exotic meat pates: Crocs, Kudu, Ostrich, Impala, Springbok.

 

 

For sure, this is an African cultural and culinary experience. Chatting up locals, engaging in culinary adventure, drinking their local beers and wines, bush dining under African skies. Quite a sensory experience, don’t you think?

 

“Do we really want to travel in hermetically sealed popemobiles through the rural provinces of France, Mexico and the Far East, eating only in Hard Rock Cafes and McDonalds? Or do we want to eat without fear, tearing into the local stew, the humble taqueria’s mystery meat, the sincerely offered gift of a lightly grilled fish head? I know what I want. I want it all. I want to try everything once.”
― Anthony Bourdain, Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly


I like the vibe here. More than anywhere else. It has the “truly African” feel to it. Or perhaps, I should say “Truly Zambian”.

 

 

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Just a few meters away is the edge of the cliff. Have your Eggs Benedict breakfast here while “listening” to the smoke that thunders. Victoria Falls!

 

 

Breakfast right by the “smoke that thunders”. What beats that? I’d readily give up my oyster and champagne breakfast for this experience. Yes, it is more than just breakfast. It’s quite an experience to munch through your Eggs Benedict while listening to the gushing waters from the falls and feeling that “spray” of water as the wind blows your way.

 

 

 

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Thank you, Chikie, for this photo. I really hammed it up, didn’t I?

 

 

To think I was already so pleased with Zambezi Sun’s buffet breakfast. And my premier breakfast spot right by the pool, which Ngandan secures for me every morning! Can’t complain about this Zambian leg of my African journey. Everything worked out perfect here. It’s in the stars!

 

 

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Royal Breakfasts indeed! A local, Ngandan, secured this spot for me each morning.

 

 

From our hotel, it’s only 2 kilometers trailing a path to view the Falls from different angles. Make that 4 kilometers for a return trip. The sun is out but the path is slippery owing to the water spray from the waterfalls. I’ve read about this tourist who slipped and fell from the edge (yes, he died) when a baboon sprung from nowhere to snatch his bag. So let me just say I took great care scaling those steps, crossing the wet bridge, watching out for baboons and yes, snapping way too many photos.

 

 

 

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An aerial shot of the Falls with the Zambezi Sun Hotel on the lower left. From this spot, we hiked towards the steel bridge where we had a better viewing of the Falls and the Livingstone Bridge. Had a good “spray” too!

 

 

You can only take so many photos of the SAME Victoria Falls. From a helicopter, from the edge, from the bridge, from the many viewing spots. Lighting differs quite a bit, and the mist from the Falls can make or break a shot. After a while, you stop. Wiping my camera lens, I can only feel gratitude in my heart for all these natural wonders. The Falls. A rainbow here and there. Standing on a spot of land in Zambia, while looking out to the other tourists standing on a spot of land in Zimbabwe just across the Falls. Or looking down to the Zambezi River where some dare white-water raft or swim at Boiling Point. Such beauty. And I was there!

 

 

 

 

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Photo Credits: Chikie. (That’s me up front, busy snapping photos while getting slightly wet from the water spray)

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That’s the hiking trail. Just 4 kilometers return trip. And look at that rainbow!

 

 

Oh, by the way, there are some others who’d rather view the Falls while jumping off Livingstone Bridge which connects Zambia to Zimbabwe. If you care for a jump, just remember that a young woman once bungee-jumped and the rope snapped and she plunged straight into the waters. She had the presence of mind to swim under the currents to pull her feet off the rope then swim up to the nearest rock to wait for rescue. Now, what are the chances you can do a repeat of that? Best of luck, chap!

 

 

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You can only take so many photos of the same Falls.

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SEE THAT BUNGEE-JUMPER? IT’S THAT TINY RED DOT BELOW THE LIVINGSTONE BRIDGE WHICH CONNECTS ZAMBIA TO ZIMBABWE.

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THE LIVINGSTONE BRIDGE. AND THE ZAMBEZI RIVER BELOW. SOMEWHERE THERE IS THE “BOILING POINT”.


The view takes your breath away. And that’s not an overstatement!

 

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Oh, that lonely bench again! I see it everywhere. With a promise of a perfect view!

 

Knysna Heads. Imagine pre-steam ships going through that gap sailing into the lagoon. I can sit here all afternoon till sundown just staring into those breakers, watching the tides flow without breaking a stride to spill out into the vast Indian Ocean. Truly, an impressive view especially when the tides lift and flow over the rocks and sandbars.

 

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Walking Towards the Rocks and the Lighthouse

 

The scenery before we stopped to appreciate this lagoon view somehow prepared us. My, this is really prime property with this premier view! The rocks, the tides, the lighthouse. Sitting on that bench with a cup of good brew or a flute of champagne should complete the deal. And don’t tell me it’s too early for my bubbles!

 

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The Lighthouse

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Framed by the Bus Window. So Lovely On This Wintry Day!

 

So, what did we miss? This foodie missed something big time. We passed it on our way to the lighthouse. Didn’t give it much attention as we were eager to see the views from the rocks. Read about it. But it didn’t stick. Aaahhhh….. This old hag must be losing it.

 

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I want to cry. Waaaaahhhhh!

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And we just passed it without giving a hoot! Waaaaahhhhhh.

 

And it’s just not the view. Breakfast all day in this cafe. Good coffee and wine selection. No pretensions. Just good home-cooked comfort food. EASTHEAD CAFE. Yay! Knysna truly surprises. The lagoon, the waterfront, the quays, the lighthouse, the quaint cafés and bistros. I can live here!

 

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The Coffee Connection in Old Knysna

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Lemon Meringue Pie and a Frothy Coffee @Coffee Connection

 

You lose some. You win some. In the “Old Knysna” I didn’t miss checking out Coffee Connection. This social hub has the best lemon meringue pie I ever tasted. Climbing up the stairs to go to the loo, I noticed how quaint the staircase, flooring and restrooms are. As it turned out, this 20-year old coffee hub is housed in an 18th century building which has since become a landmark in the “Old Knysna”. Nice. I got my frothy coffee, the best pie and the old charm of an 18th century landmark edifice. Swell.

 

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SAY THAT AGAIN!

 

 

Easthead Cafe just had to wait for my next visit! Maybe I can spend more time here in Knysna. Charming place. Good food. My neighborhood!


Leaving Capetown is an ordeal. It’s heartbreaking to leave a place as lovely and postcard-pretty as Capetown. The sea and mountain sceneries are in perfect harmony here. Whether you are facing the Atlantic or the Indian Ocean, you will be dazzled by these magnificent backgrounds. The coves, where sailboats blow across the waters like toys, pulled by their colorful sails, can render the romantically-challenged quite desperate. Ahem. I can’t count the number of times I listened to the surf of the ocean and heaved a deep sigh in this lovely South African city.

 

 

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There is much to do in Cape Town. Like revisiting all those places we’ve seen. Its charm drives you to do that.

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The sound of the Ocean lulls one to an almost melancholy state. The surge and the spray just in time to wake you from that mindless state.

 

 

Off to the farm, the caves, the ranch we go. But first, some serious business. LUNCH. And what perfect pitstop. The R62 Deli in Joubert-Tradauw Wine Estate makes your day. Place is so intimate it makes you feel like you dropped in on your best friend’s for some home-cooked meal. As with many perfect meals, lunch here is simply made with the simplest, freshest ingredients. It leaves just enough room for everyone to indulge in their wines, be it rosé, Sauvignon or shyrah.

 

 

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I almost grew tired spotting and snapping shots of the rainbow.

The resident mascot of Joubert Tradauw Wine Estate’s R62 Deli

 

 

The bean soup reminded me of my best Hungarian goulash somewhere in Eastern Europe, and the salads couldn’t be more Mediterranean. I can stop there, maybe even skip the dessert (a rare occasion) and linger around the wine estate on this pleasantly cool day. The very playful dog (Jacquie?) made everyone feel at home. I bet he’d tag along for a stroll. We also sneaked in and checked the small kitchen where more bean soups stewed, fresh arugulas and fruits ready to compose a salad, a chocolate cake freshly-baked and ready to be sliced.

 

 

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Freshly-harvested greens and fruits. Straight from the farm. And their wines go well with the Klein Karoo tapas.

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I want to remember every detail through an old sepia-colored filter. Call me romantic. Or romantically-challenged? But this tiny place is oozing with charm that even an ordinary brew of coffee would likely taste better.  But wait, hand me that French Chocolate Cake! 

 

 

French Chocolate Cake!

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At the end of this dining area is the small Mediterranean-style farm kitchen which is open for everyone to step in to check what’s cooking!

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I can drink gallons of coffee or tea here.


Been here more than a week and sampled quite a variety of South African delicacies. What stands out though was the oyster and champagne for breakfast we had in Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa. By itself, the breakfasts served here are alright even without the champagne and oysters. But there you go. Luxury. They’re few and far between — ahem — so, why not? Let those flutes clink to good health and a safe journey. Indulge. What a treat!

 

 

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The succulent oysters for breakfast at Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa

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Kudu pies, vegetable salads, boerewors and koeksisters.

 

 

Then there are all those biltongs and pies made with minced meat. Not your ordinary minced meat though. I’ve tried kudu and springbok meat, both from the antelope family. Didn’t really like the boerewors sausages nor the very sweet koeksisters dessert, but I do like ostrich meat now and the fresh salads – both vegetables and fruits, freshly harvested from the farm – served us in Berluda Farmhouse and R62 Deli in Joubert-Tradauw Wine Estate. I was so looking forward to lunch at the Two Oceans Restaurant at Cape Point on Day 1 in Capetown but a change of plans landed us in Seaforth in Boulders Beach  instead. View is perfect but lunch could have been better. Well, no big problem a glass of Castle beer won’t cure.

 

 

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For all the treats on the table, I enjoyed the roasted sweet potatoes (kamote) the most. Those, plus the veg bredie and fruits.

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R62 Deli deserves a separate blog. Watch this page! Love their green and fruit salads!

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A seafood platter from Seaforth Restaurant in Boulders Beach, just a skip and a hop from the penguins.

 

 

And speaking of beers, Mitchell’s is perfect when you dine at Tapas and Oysters in Thesen Island. The coastal oysters are so succulent that one will most certainly ask for more than the “tasting” portion. Tapas consisted of fresh calamari, samosas, shrimps, fries, and an assortment of sauces and dippings. And what better way to cap this lunch but with a stroll along Knysna Quay and a coffee and lemon meringue at Coffee Connection.

 

 

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Tapas and Oysters live up to its reputation. No pretensions, no frills. Just honest to goodness good and fresh seafood!

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Quiche or Bobotie? Ostrich steak or fillet? Springbok is deer or antelope? Doesn’t matter what it’s called so long as it’s good only dear Rosie can make them!

 

 

You can’t beat the views at the very exclusive Plettenberg Hotel and Spa. Dining al fresco here is quite an experience. The seafood buffet could have been more fresh though. For someone who loves oysters and shrimps, it was surprising to find myself yearning to get back to Tapas and Oysters for a beer and cowboy lunch.

 

 

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Unbeatable views at Plettenberg Hotel and Spa!

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Coffee and Lemon Meringue Pie at Coffee Connection in Knysna Quay. FTW!

 

 

Leaving the cosmopolitan life and into the bush, the Entabeni experience was really more than just the safari. A bush dinner at 9Celsius? Even the constant drum beating and African music can’t keep me warm enough. Nor the camp fires and the red wine. But I love it! Steaks couldn’t have been more rare. And it helps that it’s dark to miss the steak juice (aka blood) oozing out of the carving. There were more sausages and others say the chicken was good. Since I missed the superb steak served in Hyatt Regency Oubaii Hotel in George the night before, I’m going rare tonight! And in the bush!

 

 

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Aaaaah. Carnivores…… let us celebrate!

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How do you want your eggs?

 

 

And if you think I can’t have a hearty breakfast after that rare steak dinner the night before, you’re dead wrong. We’re in Africa, baby! On to our safari on full stomachs! 🙂


Ready for the farm? This city girl surprisingly made it through a very wet 2-night stay in an ostrich farm run by a septuagenarian by the name of Rosie and her charming family.

 

 

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It’s the farmhouse transport system, ei?

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Coming here is like coming home. Like a home in the range.

 

Home, home on the range,

Where the deer and the antelope play;

Where seldom is heard a discouraging word

And the skies are not cloudy all day.

 

But the skies were cloudy. It rained the couple of days we were here. Just the same, we felt so at home especially when Rosie takes charge and refuses to serve dinner till everyone is present. Rosie cooks a mean feast. Her springbok pie with its drippings for gravy poured over steaming rice is “to die for”. I had 2 servings and made sure I cleaned out my plate lest Rosie calls my attention. Soooo….. Not a morsel of food left on my plate!

 

 

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Springbok Pie. Spring = jump. Bok = antelope or goat.

 

What’s a springbok? Spring means “jump” and “bok” means antelope or goat. It’s a brown and white gazelle from the south and southwestern part of South Africa. Is it a deer or an antelope? Honestly, I don’t know. But here’s how it looks before Rosie decided to make it our dinner.

 

 

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Springbok. Before it became dinner 😦

 

 

And here’s more. Rosie proudly announced that our dinner was hunted by her young pre-teen grandson, Jan Henrich. Jan gladly though shyly posed for photos with some of us appreciative diners. And as always, Rosie did her rounds to make sure we are eating well. Imagine your grandma fussing over your dinner, if you will. With the fireplace well-stocked with logs to burn, we lingered over our coffee and desserts. Swell…..

 

 

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Jan Henrich and his granny, Rosie.

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Dessert!

 

 

As Berluda Farmhouse is an ostrich farm, we had ostrich pâtés as well as ostrich steaks. You can say I’m a convert now. It helps that I’m not particularly fond of this bird, so I can have my guilt-free dinners. Rosie kept the kitchen staff real busy even when the farmhouse experienced a power failure. For a while then, I worried what she’d serve for dinner. Her quiché didn’t disappoint. Simple meals made with exotic meats and freshly-harvested greens and fruits never disappoint. Same goes for the homemade pâtés and marmalades.

 

 

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Mashed guava, kiwi and some peaches.

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Rosie’s Savoury Quiche!

 

 

I would love to post more food photos but it wouldn’t be fair to the resident ostriches, would it? But I’m not about to apologize that this turned out to be a food blog. I’m drooling as I write. Mi apologia.

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Was Never Fond of These Birds. But I love their MEAT! And yes, I won’t mind a bag made of ostrich leather.

 

 

And here’s what’s left of that ostrich 😉 Y.U.M.

 

 

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Ostrich Steak for dinner.