Just like Groznjan, Motovun is another medieval village in the heart-shaped Istrian Peninsula where locals are largely part Italian and part Croatian. The character of the village is no less different, considering that it’s only a half hour drive apart. But where Groznjan is into arts and music, Motovun is into films. In fact, they hold Film Festivals here where international films from all over the world are screened. Also, there’s a more pronounced Tuscan fortified town feel in Motovun perhaps because of its medieval walls, tunnels and well-preserved 13th century bell tower from where one glimpses a panoramic view of the verdant valleys below. At the same time, the town also reminds me of Le Baux De Provence in France. But comparisons aside, Motovun is truly a charming village to visit.
Because it rises high above the Motovun Forest, the village is also popular for Istria’s famous truffles. Both the white and black varieties of this fungus abound in this dark, damp forest. Some of the visitors here actually go on truffle hunting adventures with certified truffle hunters along with their canine assistants. Here in Istria, I have so much respect for their pride in having their own truffles, Motovun wine and Istrian prosciutto. Having said that, you’d think it’s a no-brainer to choose Motovun as our lunch place. Well, our local driver actually recommended we lunch here and we stumbled upon this place visited by much-admired Anthony Bourdain called Konoba Mondo. There was a photo of dear, departed Tony with 2 of the trattoria’s waiters (or is one the owner?) and a New York Times article proclaiming it as the best little bistro in town. There was indoor seating and an outdoor terrace. Menu expectedly listed truffle dishes. At our table, we each ordered a dish of truffle pasta (no sharing!) but we shared a bowl of salad. The servings were generous, with many slices of the coveted truffles. 😋
Lunch done, cravings satisfied. We got ready to walk slightly uphill tracing the city walls and through 2 short tunnels towards the church. Passing more outdoor cafes along the walls, I imagined many happy sundown cocktails here, while enjoying the amazing view of the terrain. Most diners were locals and there was hardly any crowd in Motovun. I hear ding-ding-ding for another medieval village worth visiting. I won’t suggest staying the night here though, as there seemed to be a lack of lively town square vibe here. Well, perhaps it has an appeal to the artists, the writers, who need their “space” and find it here in this ancient hilltop village. Me? I’m happy with my truffle pasta lunch. 👍
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