Tag Archive: el born



I was here not too long ago so I’d likely skip many must-do’s like the Sagrada Família, Casa Batlló, Casa Mila, Park Güell, Palau de Musica Catalana, Ciutadella Parque, even the Barceloneta. But I need a repeat of La Boqueria and the many dining spots around here. They say food is an integral part of one’s travels but I’m beginning to think u travel for the food. 🤣 Especially Spanish food! From desayunos to almuerzos and unforgettable dinners, España ranks up there in my book. From cafe cortado to churros con chocolate, from paellas to fideuas, from ham to jamones and many more.

La Boqueria
This is lunch. An assortment of seafood from sea bream, prawns, navajas, salmon, clams, mussels etc

From Barcelona Cathedral to Santa Maria Del Pi and Del Mar, we’ve had our hours of prayers in these majestic Iglesias. All within walking distance from our hotel in Barrio Gotic, the birthplace of Joan Miro. Just off the corner, there was Antic Tapas de Ferran where we had our first Catalan almuerzo of pulpo, paella, gambas, anchoas, and my favorite pimientos de padron! Completed the day with postres (desserts) of crema catalan y gelato in Plaça Reial where people watching is par for the course. Que sabroso!

Lunch in Carrer Ferran, Barrio Gotic
Postres en Plaça Reial in Barrio Gotic

While we took eating real seriously, we paid equally serious attention to Catalan art and made it to Fundacio Joan Miro, Moco Museum and Picasso Museum. Fundacio Miro is a half hour Bus 55 ride from Plaça Catalonia to Montjuic Hill. The 2 museos in El Born is just a short walking distance from our Barrio Gotic crib. Did my souvenir shopping in the museos’ tiendas. That walk also meant passing this superb tortilla place called El Xampanyet recommended by our friend D. It has been around for nearly a century — since 1929. It’s a hole in the wall but long lines are the norm. We found a corner table near the tiny kitchen manned by a huge stocky Catalan who moved and cooked the tortillas so briskly it’s almost a spectacle. I also enjoyed a good tinto de verano here. Still good as it feels summery here than autumn-ish. Yes, at 24C!

Best tortilla in my book. El Xampanyet in El Born.
The collections from Fundacio Joan Miro

We’d be returning to Barcelona after our Mediterranean cruise so we’re not exactly in a rush to hit the Catalan attractions here. But the nearby Santa Maria del Pi has an ongoing exhibit — some art installations depicting “Childhood in Exile” and dwelt on sad and broken feelings of isolation and sufferings. Too heavy and I must say depressing. Before long, we stepped out of the Iglesia and walked towards Plaça Reial in search of an oyster place.

I’m not a shopper but there were good finds in Moco Museum Shop
“Childhood in Exile. Sacred Childhood”

Well, the oyster place wasn’t exactly what we dreamed of. I mean the oysters were good (you can’t mess with fresh oysters, anyway) but everything else is meh — fish soup, fideuas, berenjenas (eggplant) and sea bream . Can’t win them all but the service in Quinze Nits likewise sucks. Not ever will we head back. And this serves as a good lesson — the Plaça Reial is right next to our hotel so it was no sweat walking easily to find a place for some seafood stew and oysters. But it’s a square for the tourists in the Barrio Gotic area who are too lazy (like me us that night) to search for dining spots with good reviews. One hard lesson.

Albondigas, “Chicharon” and more pimientos at El Rincon de las Tapas

So on our last day in Barcelona before boarding our boat for the Mediterranean cruise, we dined in Asador de Aranda. An absolutely special lunch of lechal (suckling lamb) and hake carpaccio. Soooo good. I completely ignored the ribeye steak and totally enjoyed my lamb lunch. Hits a spot, for sure. Our Barcelona (Part 1) adventure ended on the right note despite some mishaps. And we hope to fully enjoy the second episode after our cruise.

Ribeye & Lechal

Museu Picasso (Barcelona)


We didn’t even have to discuss it. But the lines, the crowds, the noise, got to us. Gaudi had many fans, judging by the crowd that stood in line for Sagrada Familia, Parc Güell, La Pedrera and Casa Batllo. There was an area in Parc Güell where we nearly had the spot all to ourselves. But not for long. As for the rest of Gaudi’s masterpieces, one simply co-exists with the rest of adoring fans. My nieta and I wanted some quiet time. Ciutat Vella is charming but the La Rambla y Barri Gotic areas are littered with camera-toting humans. A few more meters away and we settled in La Ribera. Still teeming with a vibrant vibe, but less touristy. We liked it better here, including El Born area.

My nieta had Museu Picasso in her bucket list but we failed to buy tickets online. We missed the one in Paris so we just had to check this one out. The line for the museum was tolerable, thank God. Housed in 5 of La Ribera’s centuries-old medieval palaces, we were eager to get in and view Picasso’s earlier works. I have to confess I enjoyed the collection better in San Francisco’s MOMA, but I guess we needed to understand that the collection should be appreciated from another perspective. As I said, these are the master’s earlier works and one traces how his art evolved from the traditional and academic to modernist and contemporary. Imagine his works at age 14. So young, yet his brush strokes spoke of his genius and artistry.

Although born in Malaga, Picasso chose to have this museum in Barcelona presumably because he likely feels more connected to this Catalan city. His good friend Jaume Sabartés had quite an extensive collection of his paintings, prints and drawings but Picasso himself added, albeit donated, much of the museum’s extensive collection. More donations were acquired — from Picasso’s widow, friends, other art collectors and various art galleries. Although the major works on exhibit included early Picasso works like the First Communion and Science and Charity, I am more intrigued by the artist’s portraits of himself and beloved father as well as his 58 “versions” of Velasquez’ Las Meninas.

I am a big fan of Diego Velasquez. His Las Meninas is prominently displayed in the Museo del Prado in Madrid. Pablo Picasso must be a big fan too. But why the 58 versions? What was he thinking? He donated his “recreation” of this major artwork when his good friend Sabartes died in 1968. And this is a quote from Picasso himself:

“If someone wants to copy Las Meninas, entirely in good faith, for example, upon reaching a certain point and if that one was me, I would say..what if you put them a little more to the right or left? I’ll try to do it my way, forgetting about Velázquez. The test would surely bring me to modify or change the light because of having changed the position of a character. So, little by little, that would be a detestable Meninas for a traditional painter, but would be my Meninas.”

— Picasso

Frankly, I still don’t get it. I mean, 58 versions kind of smack of an obsession, IMHO. The pieces jump out in vivid colors, unlike the original piece. But Picasso surely made them “his own” in that “distorted, cubist style” so prevalent in his art. Quite prolific, this artist. Well, he did live to a ripe, full age with not an ounce of passion lost through his many (20,000!) works in an astonishing range of style. Maybe it pays to keep inspired? For sure, he had several muses but I’m not going into that. 🙄

Indeed, Pablo Picasso is one significant artist of the 20th century. He started off being trained by his own father, copying many major artworks, and later inventing and reinventing his art. The world became better. He left us with many creations. As well as notable quotes. Quite a man, this Picasso!

“The very act of creation is first of all an act of destruction.” – Pablo Picasso

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