My last visit was in 2003 but that was on official business so it shouldn’t count. In 1986 and 2000, I was there. First as a student, the next as a tourist. Most things remained the same, but for the price of West End tickets. As a newbie watching musicals for the first time, I was very lucky to be there when Les Miserables first showed some 3 months before my arrival in 1986. With my student discount, it was a steal watching it and quite frankly, I was beyond awed. I’ve never seen the likes of it till then. I’ve watched it several times since, both in West End and Broadway, and even back in my home country. This Cameron Mackintosh was my new hero. Fast forward 2019. Ticket prices have spiralled. Lowest-priced musicals still hovered from £30 upwards. Some at £200 and up. And I mean really upwards. If you’re aiming to watch only one or 2, sure you can splurge. But not if you’re meaning to watch more. And so, rather than stay longer in London, we moved to stay nearly a week in Amsterdam and then another week in Brussels before heading back to London and onwards for 8 nights in Bath and The Cotswolds. We made many day trips from our chosen city base using trains, buses and vans. This is our Trip Summary from May 19 to June 12, 2019.
Always in my mind. Always in my list. Been to Stratford-upon-Avon on its north side, and south of it, Bath, but never stepped into the real Cotswolds territory. Until now. Time well spent in the English Countryside. In some places, time stood still. The honey-coloured stone cottages, the centuries-old market halls, “wool churches” and biscuit-hued houses with dry stone wall fences. So lovely!
And finally, Chippenham, where the wedding was held. The reason why we’re here. The Lost Orangery in Euridge Manor was the perfect venue for such a fairytale wedding.
Not too many have been to the Cotswolds. And when visiting Cotswolds, Corsham isn’t exactly top of mind. But we’re happy to have decided to stay here since it’s very near to the 3 wedding events we were attending one weekend. Euridge Manor in Wiltshire and Castle Combe aren’t too far away, just 15-20 minutes drive. And Lacock is just some 10-15 minutes drive away. Besides, Corsham has its own charm too, without being soooo isolated. The latter is important since we didn’t want to drive and therefore considered the hotel’s proximity to shops, number of dining outlets, attractions and facility in hailing cabs. Alright, staying above a pub is a plus too.
But really, how often do you walk the town’s streets along with peacocks and peahens? They’re officially Corsham residents and have grown used to people. We stayed in one of those pubs in the area. Yeah, like getting your room and a beer too. And I bet these peacocks watch out for those who’ve had one too many beers. Methuen Arms can be noisy at night especially on weekends. But their restaurant serves very good food and has a good wine selection. Breakfasts here were just heavenly. One breakfast, I had a squirrel staring me down from a window. Must be jealous of the toasted bagel and smoked trout with mashed avocado I had for brekkie.
Full English Brekkie? Bagel with Salmon or Trout? Toasties?
The 17th century schoolroom and almshouses, Town Hall, Post Office, Elephant Bums, Corsham Court, Flemish Cottages, are all walking distance from the hotel. And they stand right next to more pubs, tiny offices, craft shops, convenience stores, coffee joints and restaurants. We even spotted an Indian and a Chinese restaurant which seem to be popular among the locals. (You guessed right, one of us ordered some noodles and another dish to takeaway — for midnight snacks!)
Only a parking lot and a backyard separates Methuen Arms from the Corsham Court and Saint Bart’s Church. There are paved and cobblestoned paths, but it was an easy, short walk across Corsham Park. Saint Bart is short for St Bartholomew, a church which dates back to Saxon times. A marker on its wall honours the Corsham men who perished during the First World War. The graveyard is right next to the Church, looking real pretty for an old cemetery. On the other hand, Corsham Court used to house a Saxon royal manor and belongs to the Methuen family since 1745. It was perfect as location setting for the movie “Remains of the Day” starring two of my favourites: Anthony Hopkins and Emma Thompson.
Corsham Court
They do look like Elephant Bums, right?
The Saint Bart and the adjacent cemetery may look too pretty. In my book, I like the experience of seeing peacocks roam High Street where one finds 17th century Flemish cottages then built for the Flemish weavers who revived the wooden industry in this town. The days we spent in this area, we were extremely busy for the wedding events. But it only took a few hours of leisurely walking to reach these tourist spots. We found Corsham very orderly and clean — despite the pub noise! And amidst that pub noise, I overheard 2 authors discussing a book they are writing together. Either that or one is an editor. With that lovely erudite-ish British accent, i was drawn to their exchange, eavesdropping and finding delight in it. My bad!
Saint Bart’s
The Graveyard beside St. Bart’s
Next time I visit the Cotswolds, I’d likely go back to this former coaching inn with Georgian-style architecture – Methuen Arms – but time the visit in spring. Either to stay or enjoy a good meal and a beer. Or both. Still won’t drive, but biking can be an option. Also learned there’s a hiking trail in the Cotswolds. Now, that even makes it more interesting. Why not?
Trivia: Camilla And Andrew Parker-Bowles lived here in Corsham until they divorced in 1995. Their house was then sold to former Pink Floyd drummer Nick Mason who still lives in the Corsham estate with his wife.
Also, the Duke of Edinburgh (Prince Philip, married to Queen Elizabeth) spent time in Corsham teaching cadets in the HMS Royal Arthur at the time he was engaged to marry the then future Queen.
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