I was looking forward to visiting Simonstown not only to check out the Jackass Penguins in Boulders Beach but likewise to visit Jubilee Square. Ever heard the story of “Just Nuisance”? That’s the name of the Great Dane who “served” in the Royal Navy back in the 1940s.
Errrr, do I have your attention now? The story certainly got my attention. You see, Just Nuisance is one very popular and well-loved dog who has become part of the town’s history. Story goes that sailors in the town’s naval station regularly fed this Great Dane who has acquired a taste for fries, beer and other drinkers’ crumbs. When these sailors went for R & R in Capetown, the spoiled canine would follow them, hopping on trains even. For sure, this dog felt he “belonged” to the Royal Navy and counted many sailor friends. So loved was he that a bronze statue in Jubilee Square was made in his honor.
Penguin Colony at Boulders Beach. Simonstown. South Africa.
Jackass Penguins or African Penguins? (Photo Credits to E. Ong)
The Penguins. Not The Dog.
But wait. We’re talking about the Penguins here. These tuxedo-ed residents of Boulders Beach have been here for a while. There was an entire colony of these African Penguins just a few meters from Seaforth Restaurant where we had lunch. An entire colony! There they were going about their business, unmindful of us camwhoring tourists. There were signs warning visitors from feeding nor touching them. Good thing they built a boardwalk where we can actually “follow” them, watch them, photograph them, observe them. These look like “happy birds” not “angry birds” who wouldn’t hesitate to interact with humans swimming in the nearby waters. We found some nesting, with those cute-sy “holes” in the sandy beach. Others busily playing by the shore. I can imagine them rolling on beach towels laid out by beach swimmers on some summer days. Happy Feet!
Penguins Having A Party! (Photo Credits: E. Ong)
Play Time for these African Penguins!
African Penguins in Boulders Beach. Some on the boulders. Others a-swimming!
Check out this video of these charming birds. Just a glimpse of Happy Feet in this penguin colony.
Leaving Capetown is an ordeal. It’s heartbreaking to leave a place as lovely and postcard-pretty as Capetown. The sea and mountain sceneries are in perfect harmony here. Whether you are facing the Atlantic or the Indian Ocean, you will be dazzled by these magnificent backgrounds. The coves, where sailboats blow across the waters like toys, pulled by their colorful sails, can render the romantically-challenged quite desperate. Ahem. I can’t count the number of times I listened to the surf of the ocean and heaved a deep sigh in this lovely South African city.
There is much to do in Cape Town. Like revisiting all those places we’ve seen. Its charm drives you to do that.
The sound of the Ocean lulls one to an almost melancholy state. The surge and the spray just in time to wake you from that mindless state.
Off to the farm, the caves, the ranch we go. But first, some serious business. LUNCH. And what perfect pitstop. The R62 Deli in Joubert-Tradauw Wine Estate makes your day. Place is so intimate it makes you feel like you dropped in on your best friend’s for some home-cooked meal. As with many perfect meals, lunch here is simply made with the simplest, freshest ingredients. It leaves just enough room for everyone to indulge in their wines, be it rosé, Sauvignon or shyrah.
I almost grew tired spotting and snapping shots of the rainbow.
The resident mascot of Joubert Tradauw Wine Estate’s R62 Deli
The bean soup reminded me of my best Hungarian goulash somewhere in Eastern Europe, and the salads couldn’t be more Mediterranean. I can stop there, maybe even skip the dessert (a rare occasion) and linger around the wine estate on this pleasantly cool day. The very playful dog (Jacquie?) made everyone feel at home. I bet he’d tag along for a stroll. We also sneaked in and checked the small kitchen where more bean soups stewed, fresh arugulas and fruits ready to compose a salad, a chocolate cake freshly-baked and ready to be sliced.
Freshly-harvested greens and fruits. Straight from the farm. And their wines go well with the Klein Karoo tapas.
I want to remember every detail through an old sepia-colored filter. Call me romantic. Or romantically-challenged? But this tiny place is oozing with charm that even an ordinary brew of coffee would likely taste better. But wait, hand me that French Chocolate Cake!
French Chocolate Cake!
At the end of this dining area is the small Mediterranean-style farm kitchen which is open for everyone to step in to check what’s cooking!
Been here more than a week and sampled quite a variety of South African delicacies. What stands out though was the oyster and champagne for breakfast we had inTwelve Apostles Hotel and Spa. By itself, the breakfasts served here are alright even without the champagne and oysters. But there you go. Luxury. They’re few and far between — ahem — so, why not? Let those flutes clink to good health and a safe journey. Indulge. What a treat!
The succulent oysters for breakfast at Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa
Kudu pies, vegetable salads, boerewors and koeksisters.
Then there are all those biltongs and pies made with minced meat. Not your ordinary minced meat though. I’ve tried kudu and springbok meat, both from the antelope family. Didn’t really like the boerewors sausages nor the very sweet koeksisters dessert, but I do like ostrich meat now and the fresh salads – both vegetables and fruits, freshly harvested from the farm – served us in Berluda Farmhouse and R62 Deli in Joubert-Tradauw Wine Estate. I was so looking forward to lunch at the Two Oceans Restaurant at Cape Point on Day 1 in Capetown but a change of plans landed us in Seaforth in Boulders Beach instead. View is perfect but lunch could have been better. Well, no big problem a glass of Castle beer won’t cure.
For all the treats on the table, I enjoyed the roasted sweet potatoes (kamote) the most. Those, plus the veg bredie and fruits.
R62 Deli deserves a separate blog. Watch this page! Love their green and fruit salads!
A seafood platter from Seaforth Restaurant in Boulders Beach, just a skip and a hop from the penguins.
And speaking of beers, Mitchell’s is perfect when you dine at Tapas and Oysters in Thesen Island. The coastal oysters are so succulent that one will most certainly ask for more than the “tasting” portion. Tapas consisted of fresh calamari, samosas, shrimps, fries, and an assortment of sauces and dippings. And what better way to cap this lunch but with a stroll along Knysna Quay and a coffee and lemon meringue at Coffee Connection.
Tapas and Oysters live up to its reputation. No pretensions, no frills. Just honest to goodness good and fresh seafood!
Quiche or Bobotie? Ostrich steak or fillet? Springbok is deer or antelope? Doesn’t matter what it’s called so long as it’s good only dear Rosie can make them!
You can’t beat the views at the very exclusive Plettenberg Hotel and Spa. Dining al fresco here is quite an experience. The seafood buffet could have been more fresh though. For someone who loves oysters and shrimps, it was surprising to find myself yearning to get back to Tapas and Oysters for a beer and cowboy lunch.
Unbeatable views at Plettenberg Hotel and Spa!
Coffee and Lemon Meringue Pie at Coffee Connection in Knysna Quay. FTW!
Leaving the cosmopolitan life and into the bush, the Entabeni experience was really more than just the safari. A bush dinner at 9Celsius? Even the constant drum beating and African music can’t keep me warm enough. Nor the camp fires and the red wine. But I love it! Steaks couldn’t have been more rare. And it helps that it’s dark to miss the steak juice (aka blood) oozing out of the carving. There were more sausages and others say the chicken was good. Since I missed the superb steak served in Hyatt Regency Oubaii Hotel in George the night before, I’m going rare tonight! And in the bush!
Aaaaah. Carnivores…… let us celebrate!
How do you want your eggs?
And if you think I can’t have a hearty breakfast after that rare steak dinner the night before, you’re dead wrong. We’re in Africa, baby! On to our safari on full stomachs! 🙂
Ready for the farm? This city girl surprisingly made it through a very wet 2-night stay in an ostrich farm run by a septuagenarian by the name of Rosie and her charming family.
It’s the farmhouse transport system, ei?
Coming here is like coming home. Like a home in the range.
Home, home on the range,
Where the deer and the antelope play;
Where seldom is heard a discouraging word
And the skies are not cloudy all day.
But the skies were cloudy. It rained the couple of days we were here. Just the same, we felt so at home especially when Rosie takes charge and refuses to serve dinner till everyone is present. Rosie cooks a mean feast. Her springbok pie with its drippings for gravy poured over steaming rice is “to die for”. I had 2 servings and made sure I cleaned out my plate lest Rosie calls my attention. Soooo….. Not a morsel of food left on my plate!
Springbok Pie. Spring = jump. Bok = antelope or goat.
What’s a springbok? Spring means “jump” and “bok” means antelope or goat. It’s a brown and white gazelle from the south and southwestern part of South Africa. Is it a deer or an antelope? Honestly, I don’t know. But here’s how it looks before Rosie decided to make it our dinner.
Springbok. Before it became dinner 😦
And here’s more. Rosie proudly announced that our dinner was hunted by her young pre-teen grandson, Jan Henrich. Jan gladly though shyly posed for photos with some of us appreciative diners. And as always, Rosie did her rounds to make sure we are eating well. Imagine your grandma fussing over your dinner, if you will. With the fireplace well-stocked with logs to burn, we lingered over our coffee and desserts. Swell…..
Jan Henrich and his granny, Rosie.
Dessert!
As Berluda Farmhouse is an ostrich farm, we had ostrich pâtés as well as ostrich steaks. You can say I’m a convert now. It helps that I’m not particularly fond of this bird, so I can have my guilt-free dinners. Rosie kept the kitchen staff real busy even when the farmhouse experienced a power failure. For a while then, I worried what she’d serve for dinner. Her quiché didn’t disappoint. Simple meals made with exotic meats and freshly-harvested greens and fruits never disappoint. Same goes for the homemade pâtés and marmalades.
Mashed guava, kiwi and some peaches.
Rosie’s Savoury Quiche!
I would love to post more food photos but it wouldn’t be fair to the resident ostriches, would it? But I’m not about to apologize that this turned out to be a food blog. I’m drooling as I write. Mi apologia.
Was Never Fond of These Birds. But I love their MEAT! And yes, I won’t mind a bag made of ostrich leather.
Victoria Falls, discovered by Livingstone in 1855 and named after then reigning Queen Victoria.
The quick boat ride up until the edge.
The walking tour to view the falls from different angles before and after crossing the bridge.
Then the helicopter flight for a 360 degree view of the majestic falls shared by Zambia and Zimbabwe.
All 3 ways , plus more, to see Victoria Falls can’t be missed. With rainbows a dime a dozen in this area, how can you go wrong?
Bungee-Jumping , anyone?
Rainbows a certainty in this part of the world.
Bungee-jumping not for me. Nor micro light flying. Or white water rafting through the Zambesi River. No thanks. No high-octane activity for me. No chance of dicing with Death. Not this soon. Can only go as far as a heli flight. But that is not to say one should miss the walking tour and the boat ride to the edge. If you’re lucky, you’re bound to meet up with some elephants up the river. Or hippos. Also crocs. Don’t you think that’s enough excitement without having to jump off the bridge?
Fancy meeting you here, Mr. Elephant!
The Smoke that Thunders!
Sitting on rocks by the edge, I listened to the gushing waters of Victoria Falls. Sat there. Immobile. Still. Mesmerized. The sound of gushing waters can be quite hypnotic. Then slowly looked down and checked out the end of the rainbow. It’s a lovely day to be out with temp a perfect 23 C. Wisps of steam coming off the falls as I peered down. Thank God the early fog had lifted. But too bad Devil’s Pool is not open for wading/swimming adventurers because of the high water level in the pool. I would have loved to wade through its waters to reach the very edge. In fact I was ready with my swimwear under my jumper dress.
Zambia on your left. Zimbabwe on your right.
On our helicopter flight, we flew over a bush veld and found more elephants. The Batoka Gorge is awesome! And the flight through its gorge over the Zambezi river approximates starring in some action-adventure movie the likes of Star Wars and Indiana Jones. As with my other adventures in Africa, I wish to remember every detail of this trip with gratitude in my heart. So thankful for this blessing!
A bit of trivia: Livingstone was only 42 when he discovered Victoria Falls in 1855. He died of Malaria and Dysentery. Britain took his body back but the Zambians took his heart out to remain in Zambia where locals feel it belongs. Dr. Livingstone, I presume?
Helicopter flying right into the Batoka Gorge!
Check out the elephants on the island………..
Another rainbow!
If you have 9 minutes, watch this video clip of our heli-flight over Victoria Falls.
The early fog had lifted and the sun’s rays streamed through like the curtains falling between acts of a play. We pulled ourselves out of the duvet folds to prep for whale cruising. From the Hyatt Regency Oubaii Hotel in George, we rode the coach giddy with excitement for our first-ever Ocean Safari Premium Cruise.
The sun played hide and seek behind wooly grey clouds. The seas not as calm as we would have wanted for our close encounters with the whales. We proceeded to some craft shopping at Knysna Quays to while away the time, still hoping we can do our whaling adventure. As it turned out, we weren’t in luck. Sad. Very sad. Of course, it’s best safe than sorry but still….. a major, major letdown. Now there’s good excuse for a next visit. Hmmmm.
And so, it was the Bird Sanctuary instead for this otherwise exciting day. I’m no bird enthusiast. I would have uncomplainingly gone back to the hotel instead and reminisced over our trip to Boulders Beach back in Capetown where we met the penguins up close.
Or perhaps gone back to this rocky place with fantastic ocean views. Truly, South Africa is blessed with so many natural wonders that leave one with this gnawing feeling that this trip just can’t be your last. I only pray that next visit, the weather condition would be perfect for that much-coveted whale adventure.
So yes, there is always that next visit. With that prayer came this plea that we won’t be deprived of more adventures when we do the safari drives. Did we get lucky? You bet Lady Luck shone on us. We may have missed the whales, but the safari drives made up for it! Woo hoo!
We finally reached Entabeni Game Park Reserve after 3 1/2 hours on the road from Johannesburg. Made it with a couple of hours before sunset. A cooling breeze gusted under a hazy sun, perfect time for pleasant thoughts. I wanted to let out a blood-curdling scream with the exuberance of an 8 year old. “We’re in Africa, ready for our first safari!”
Entabeni Mountain. The Rock. All of 1.8 Billion Years Old. Jurassic!
Young Henri Taking Our Photo Here
The Entabeni Mountain looks so majestic in all its orange-ness. Entabeni means “place by the mountain”. Would you believe this natural wonder is 1.8 billion years old? Yes, Virginia. Jurassic. Imagine them dinosaurs crowding around this majestic creation in those times. Maybe planting some eggs around the 22,000-hectare park beside those humongous termite mounds we found littering the savannah.
Wildebeest or Gnus? Entabeni means “Place By The Mountain”
As my friend says “the swan of the African Savannah”
Did we get lucky on our first drive? We had the youngest, newest park ranger driving for us today and the next couple of days. Henry is a fine young man of 22 on his first job. Just a month on the job, and we’re in luck to be his first group. We climbed into our safari vehicle like we do it everyday, eager for our first adventure. With the wind riffling through our hair, we gathered dust as our safari jeep cut across the savannah in search of the Big 5. And more.
Free rider bird on a friendly Impala.
Our First Rhino. A White Rhino. And that has nothing to do with the color. Fierce.
In a matter of minutes, we had our fill of impalas, warthogs, eland and wildebeest. Then, our very first rhinoceros in all its 2-ton fierceness! As the day approached dusk, we found our giraffes. Looking truly regal, the giraffes walked ever so gracefully and elegantly twisting its long neck just enough to show us those wonderful eyes drooping with those luscious eyelashes. If there’s a Big 5 in the safari world, the giraffes should top the list for the Lovely 5 among the safari animals. Truly lovely in a regal sort of way.
Hi Gorgeous! Look at those eyes with those luscious eyelashes!
Elands. Like Kudus with straight horns and sometimes no body lines.
Henry showed us some rhino dung, followed some lion tracks, showed some impala dung, searched for more safari animals, talked about the birds, the trees, the termite mounds, and more dung. Before long, we asked our dear Henry “no more dung” for today. He obliged. What a lovely, sweet, young man! The same can be said of the rest of the safari rangers we met. Juan, Philip, Adrian and another fellow (who guided us through our Pedi Village Tour) whose name I can’t recall. All so friendly, cheerful and polite.
Our friend from Knysna Elephant Sanctuary. Trivia: Males are bulls. Females are cows. Babies are calves. Just like cattle!
NO, this is not a photo from the website. This is actual photo of our encounter with a Rhino who kept us still and quiet as it passed by the side of our safari jeep.
We’ve seen and touched the elephants inKnysna Park. We saw our first rhinoceros on our first safari drive. Done with 2. (The cheetahs, giraffes, hippos and zebras we found don’t count.) So, on our 2nd day we were drooling with excitement to see the next 3: cape buffaloes, lions and leopards.
Maybe hard to imagine why cape buffaloes would land in the list of the Big Five. Our very able guides and safari rangers explained how hunters feared these buffaloes as they can attack without any provocation at all. Much unlike the lions, leopards, cheetahs and many other fierce- looking animals, these buffaloes can attack even if they don’t feel threatened at all.
Sssssh….. This cape buffalo is staring us down.
Horses with stripes? ZEBRAS.
To be honest, I had my apprehensions sitting in an open safari vehicle before this trip. Without any protective bars, I imagined cruising across the savannah in search of safari animals completely EXPOSED and UNPROTECTED. I was tempted to google search safari accidents before signing up for this trip but decided against it. I’d never consider chickening out, for sure. Let those lions roar. Just don’t expect me to walk into a thicket and step within a few feet of a lion’s paws. I’m adventurous with a capital A but my nerves get in the way sometimes.
Rawr! This is my territory, roared the tawny lion with a fluffy mane.
Get outta here, this lion seems to say!
We found an entire herd of cape buffaloes on our afternoon safari drive. Looks like they’re having a party! Actually, Entabeni has a breeding farm and we just happened to stumble upon these breeders. They don’t look threatening at all but we kept still and quiet as our safari rangers advised. A lucky break came just before dusk when we spotted a pride of lions in the bushes. Busily feeding on what looked like wildebeest or what’s left of it, we watched a cub happily munching its feast while mommy lion grabbed another piece of dark meat for the other cub. My heart must have skipped a beat, thudding like crazy. Lions in the wilds! So this is how it feels like watching them. Therein lies the thrill, an odd feeling of detachment. I don’t remember how long we stayed, but I do remember there’s a brittle air of expectancy as I looked into a pair of eyes that seem not to miss nothing. I’m telling you, the spirit of adventure is a snatch more intense here. A few meters away, yet the sounds are closer!
Hunter Lioness is busy feeding her cubs.
Warthogs. Pumba?
As my pulse steadied and my heart found its rhythm, I forced myself to breath deeply. I can’t speak for the others in the same safari cruiser with me, but I bet their heartbeats weren’t normal like mine. Our ranger said they have been searching for these lions the past 2 days. Weren’t we in luck! The saying “Be careful what you pray for” couldn’t be more true in this instance.
Mommy Lion takes a rest while her cubs happily feast on what looked like a cursed wildebeest.
The Savannah and the Mountains. Check out the lone cheetah under the tree.
Exhaling after holding my breath for what felt like years, I realized I had my mouth wide open in a mindless gape of surprise, excitement, and fear. In that order. As my mind went on a sabbatical, my fingers busily pressed for snapshots to document this rare animal experience. Wish my shots were clearer, but can’t complain. A video of a cub shaking its head as it pulled, chewed and enjoyed its meal in the wilds makes my day!
And now there are 2 cheetahs.
Hippos playing hide and seek?
Most certainly, this is the highlight of my African adventure. Thank you, Travel Bounty! Thank you, dear Henri of Entabeni Private Game Reserve.And thank you Juan and this fellow from the Pedi Village who “rescued” me out of an African toilet. Now , that episode deserves a separate blog. Meanwhile, here’s the link to our African Safari video.
The most famous tag line is “this is the southwestern most tip of Africa”. But I remember more the trivia that this is also where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Indian Ocean. From Cape Point, one can do a 1 1/2 hour nature trek towards the Cape of Good Hope Nature Reserve.
Cape of Good Hope
Fish-Eye Image of the Cape where Atlantic Ocean meets Indian Ocean!
I felt like an impressionable teenager when we reached the place. Errr, no. More like “as we drove along Chapman’s Peak“. The bus window was like a slide show of oceans, mountains, and gardens. If you’re lucky, you’d even spot a humpback whale etched on the glassy surface of the Atlantic Ocean as it blows and gushes water up. Aaaaaahhh. And that’s when I heave one deep sigh.
Made in Heaven!
God was busy with his creations here in Capetown!
Brace yourself for more sighs as you view a chaotic mass of wild African plants dotting the landscape. Nature has truly blessed this corner of the world with the rare combination of sea and mountain sceneries and allowed God’s glorious creatures to roam around this Eden. Makes one think. Did Noah’s Ark land here with all those paired animals? (A friend says NO. It landed in Mt. Ararat)
I can live here!
Ostriches completely oblivious to camwhore tourists!
When we reached the Cape of Good Hope, there were some ostriches grazing on the patchy land oblivious to the human intruders. They sure looked like they’re used to tourists all eager for a snapshot behind the signage proclaiming this area as the “southwestern most part of Africa” complete with the relevant latitudes to support that claim. They must have found the human creatures, myself included, really funny. 😄☺😉
Check out those latitudes!
Heave a big sigh for this beauty!
When I scaled the steps towards the Lighthouse in Cape Point, I saw similar latitudinal signs marking Cape Point in relation to Jerusalem, Sydney, New York, etc. The view from here is incredibly breathtaking. (Another sigh…..)
I am just a plain tourist here. No adventurous breaks like cage diving with those sharks, nor the extremely interesting hobby sport of bird watching. But I am so happy with this lucky break. Spotted this raven as I was climbing up to the Lighthouse. It flew just when I got my cam ready for a shot. Voila! Happiness.
There’s the RAVEN sitting contentedly as I scaled the steps.
The weather forecast says rainy Sunday. Just what we need to dash any hopes of a cable car ride to the Table Mountain. But not enough to cancel the boat ride to Seal Island in Hout Bay. Inevitably, my mind goes autopilot to remember those stinky, hysterical seals in San Francisco’s Fisherman’s Wharf. This time around, we sail from the pier in Simon’s Town, brave the swells of the not too calm waters of Hout Bay, up to this island where seals are pleasantly quiet, either swimming not too far from that tiny patch of land stones clustered to form an island, or simply basking in what’s left of the sun on this cloudy day.
The Seals of Hout Bay
It took some effort to remain calm. At one point, I was up front when I felt “lifted” as the boat passed a swell, momentarily up in air, before bouncing back to let hull meet water. Thank God that was just ONE moment. As the boat rocked, I anxiously and gingerly walked back to join my group. I never ever imagined myself as a sailor but I managed to hold my breakfast during the entire ride.
Rough. Bumpy. Wavy.
HOLD TIGHT, FELLAS!
While I thoroughly enjoyed the inflight movie “Dark Tide”, I wish I saw it AFTER this Hout Bay episode. By itself, the boat ride – swells and all – was fine. It’s just that the movie reminded me that these are shark-infested waters and I worried for a while if those great white sharks may prefer me in my “tourist’s outfit du jour” over their typical meal of seals. Yes, you may call me paranoid. But try watching that movie! (Movie is about shark encounters and I don’t mean whale sharks. It’s the real thing, baby. Give the great white sharks some respect, honey.)
Before heading for Sunday Mass, we stopped over at Green Point Stadium of football fame. You know, that white porcelain bowl sitting on reclaimed area.
In South Africa, Green Point touches a sensitive chord. Its history embraces many childhood memories for many South Africans. Home to an 18,000-seat stadium dating from the 1940s, it hosted many football matches and concerts of great artists the likes of the late Michael Jackson and Whitney Houston. It was also the modest venue for the Concert for the benefit of AIDS victims in 2003.
To pave way for a colossal stadium hosting the World Football Cup (FIFA) 2012, this historic building was (regretfully?) demolished in 2007. History erased.
Now 15 storeys high. Spanning 6 city blocks. Seating all of 68,000 eager spectators. Retractable glass roof to allow more natural light. 530 toilets, 16 lifts and a jail (Yes, Virginia, a jail!) 250 VIP lounges. 59 gates. 115 entry turnstiles. 530 lavatories . And four TV studios. The edifice rises like a porcelain bowl somewhere in this posh “white” neighborhood. Very impressive, indeed. And for sure, this stunning white apparition looking like a UFO cost the South African and city government a whole bunch.
Was it worththe US $330 million spent on it? Well, one thing’s for sure. Football is BIG here in South Africa.
lifeisacelebration 