We are at least 2 weeks early. Those lavender fields when abloom make postcard-perfect sceneries. Yeah, I’ve seen the postcards, the posters, the photos. I’ve even watched the video clips! But we’re too early. Abbaye Notre Dame de Senanque drew out cash from our pockets as we enjoyed their shops but no luck with those lavender fields. Just the same, this 12th century abbey near Gordes, is still a functioning abbey run by Cistercian monks who hold spiritual retreats and pray 7 times a day. We prayed that next visit we make, the field of lavender would bloom so profusely for us.
What we dream of vs reality
But Gordes was truly a surprise. Apos each love Ménerbes and Roussillon but their grandma favours Gordes more. We even chanced upon a wedding in the local church at the time we visited.As Italians proclaim “La dolce vita”, the Frenchies say “La vie est belle”. Life is beautiful indeed. And the locals here in Gordes exude that relaxed way a la Provençal!
Namedone of the most beautiful villages in the Luberon area — alongside Ménerbes and that red city Roussillon — it is quite an experience weaving through its narrow, cobblestoned streets while spotting a Renaissance castle, some fountains, a flight of stairs to get from one level to another, emerging onto tiny plazas and a spotting of impressive maisonor mansions and chateaus here and there.
Oh, Provence! Have I actually romanticised you or are you really such a beautiful province of France? Between the Rhone and the Mediterranean, I “hear” and sense your cultural identity speaking much louder in the countryside than in the big cities. Luberon Valley is truly a gem and we can just imagine how even lovelier you must be in July when those fields of lavender are abloom in all its splendour. For now, we’d settle for poppies, the fragrant jasmine flowers, some other spring blooms and the occasional sunflowers. The young lavenders, we smell you as you start to sprout, and that’s enough for now.
Our day excursion to Luberon covered 4 hilltop villages. Just when I dropped my trainers, and donned my wedge espadrilles, our day tour included many uphill climbs on uneven paths. Not the best decision. In Ménerbes, we walked around winding roads in this rocky outcrop named after the Roman goddess Minerva. Home to only 1,000 inhabitants, this village retained its exceptional old world charm with its architecture and character.
La Vie Est Belle. Life is Beautiful. Ménerbes is a walled village atop a hill in Luberon.
La vie est belle. Life is beautiful. Many of the windows of these stone houses look out to a panorama of green meadows and pastures. Driving along the winding roads can be a chore, more so the parking, because of the narrow and steep inclines. We spotted the huge stone building acquired by Picasso and given as a gift to one of his (many) mistresses Dora Maar, who is an artist herself, but more popular as Picasso’s muse in many of his weeping lady paintings. She died at a very old age and was reportedly so invested in the Provençal lifestyle when still alive. After her death, the property transferred ownership and is now used as a retreat house for artists, poets and novelists.
These houses can do with some scrubbing but I’m not sure if the charm rests on its worn-out look. In Menerbes, we saw the huge building Picasso gifted his mistress, Dora Maar.
Roussillon is just as sparsely populated but as the guide promised, it is so different from Ménerbes. It sits atop one of the largest ochre deposits in the world and these deposits give the village its natural reddish brown appeal much like how Colorado in USA is. Unfortunately, my nieto suffered a vertigo spell here so after viewing the cliff side views, we sat it out by the pharmacie waiting for the meds to run its course. Besides, the heat was really getting to us. Tropical babes that we are, it was just so hard to walk uphill with the sun shining fiercely and sweating profusely as the walks generated heat against this onset of summer temps.
The ochre cliffs of RoussillonRoussillon Pharmacie
Tourism is alive in the Luberon area. There were many groups who came in vans good for 8 pax. No big buses , perhaps because of the narrow roads in the area. It’s always a good idea to visit Provence. Though Provence has been a part of France for well over 400 years, it has retained its cultural identity much like the Catalans and the Basques in Spain have. Same, Same but different. And I wouldn’t even venture to clearly define the dividing line here. La vie est belle . 😊 Smile!
From our Avignon base, we hopped on a train for Tarascon- sur-Rhone. We passed this small town on our train from Nimes to Avignon, and thought it’s worth a visit judging by the castle and old stone buildings we spotted along the way.It took less than a half hour on the train and as soon as we stepped out of the lonely station, we felt like we stepped into a ghost town. Hardly anyone was outside the apartments or homes. Heard none nor saw any children. Many shops were closed and the cafes that were open were few. Where is everyone?
A medieval castle and a church dedicated to St. Marthe Inside the Church of St. Martha
At the time we visited, the temps rose to 29C with hardly any breeze. We were sweating as we headed for the castle and the church. Interesting trivia here is the legend where St. Marthe was able to tame a monster that ruled the town. The monster was called “La Tarasque” so we all know where Tarascon got its name. In the local museumwe visited, there was a representation of the amphibian dragon monster that really looked more cartoon-ish but then again, it’s a legend and it stuck with Tarascon! Trivia aside, the town does have its own charm. The narrow, cobble-stoned and winding alleys and the colorful windows and pastel- coloured stone buildings compose a fairy tale village. Like Beauty & the Beast. Somehow, I was expecting either Belle or Gaston to peek out of those blue windows.
Picturesque row of stone buildingsNo one is home? Population: 15,000
Tarascon takes pride in its own theatre and as the site of the Souleiado Museum. Souleiado is synonymous with high-priced, unique, Provençal fabric. Established in 1806 in a former Capuchin convent, the brand has since put on sale scarves, skirts, blouses, table linen, curtains, dresses usingthis Provençal fabric made in strong, vibrant colors. If you’re interested in fashion, this special museum will interest you.
Tarascon Opera House seems to have lined up a lot of shows. Speaks volumes of its small community of 15,000! Inside Souleiado Museum
On our way out of town towards the train station, we chanced upon a food stall selling oysters and mussels. I was so delighted with this random find that I ate a dozen off the street. The vendor happily shucked the oysters open for me, gave me a lemonand watched me devour the oysters. All told, this wasn’t a wasted afternoon. A castle, a church, a couple of museums, rows upon rows of stone houses, an oysters stall. Oh, I shouldn’t also forget we had a wonderful lunch here.
We are spending 7 days, 6 nights here in Avignon. That’s after 3 nights in Nimes. Soak up a bit of Provençal life and do day trips from this walled city to explore other parts of Provence. My 3rd trip here, actually. The first time, a friend and I drove from Paris through Tours and Lourdes to Provence before meeting up with friends in Barcelona. That was in 2003. Soon after, I headed back after visiting Lourdes, hopping on a train to Toulouse then boarding an onward train all the way to Avignon. In both trips, I felt shortchanged that I didn’t spend as much time as I could. All rushed, busy with day trips to explore Arles, Nimes, Aix en Provence, Le Baux, Saint Remy de Provence and Marseilles. All touch and go. Just “sightseeing”. I’m not doing that again. I’m spending a whole week in Avignon!
Palace of the Popes best viewed & enjoyed with sorbet on a hot day. Having my Quiche Lorraine in my hotel room.
This time, we checked out the Saturday Market in Avignon, did some retail therapy, dined in French restaurants and a pizza parlor in the city center and ate a lot of ice cream and sorbet! I love Provençal cuisine as it blends French with Spanish dishes with a sprinkling of Italian from its being under the Romans for some time. South of France literally means near the border of Northern Spain. Also, Avignon is NOT exactly that provincial — the city vibes are there, in the shops, in the many touristy stalls, cafes, theatres, gelato bars and restaurants. But so much more relaxed and milder in temperament or character than Paris. Easy to cover the entire walled city in 2-3 days but it’s a convenient base for excursions to explore more of Provence. We enjoyed the spacious hotel room we booked, unpacked with comfort, claimed the 3 closets in the room and made good use of the sitting room for our dine-in dinners while our laundry dries.
The Papal Palace GardenAvignon has many “old” and modern spots.
The ticket costs only €13 for the Palace, Garden and the Bridge. The tablet guide they give you is so high-tech it took some time to figure out how to make it work. Took an hour and a half but going to the viewpoint for St. Benezet Bridge or Pont de Avignon requires some uphill climb. If you don’t care to walk or climb, just hop on the tiny, silver Choo-choo train for €10. I won’t tire you with details on the Papal Palace and the Avignon Papacy. Suffice it to say that 7 popes lived in Avignon rather than Rome from 1309 to 1376 because of conflict with the French crown. Thus, Avignon holds that distinction of being the papal capital for some time.
Avignon Bridge or Pont d’ BenezetInside the Palais de Pape
We enjoyed our twice-a-day ice cream sessions here. And the punishing summer heat (29C) must have worked up our appetites too. The outdoor cafes and restaurants offered many options. Paella, steak Charolais, fillet mignon, salmon risotto, entrecôte, salad nicoise, Magret de canard, pizza and pasta. And some ice cream and granita bars offer as many as 74 flavours! You can’t go hungry in Avignon. C’est La vie!
We enjoyed many good meals here. No French portions; the servings overwhelmed me!
It’s 2023 and it’s been 4 years since I first visited this capital and largest city of the province of West Flanders in the Flemish Region of Belgium. Just a day trip from Brussels then but as I mentioned in my last blog, I’d head back for at least a couple of nights here the next time around. And so it went, a weekend in Brugge or Bruges or however it’s spelled. Stayed in a hotel housed in a 17th century structure that used to be a brothel just a few blocks from the plaza.
Bruges at SundownBruges without the tourist crowd
As soon as we checked in, we stepped out to have brunch at House of Waffles. Easily found a table and enjoyed our savoury and sugary waffles and liege. The next few times we passed it, there was always a long queue of tourists. So we satisfied our hunger in a burger joint with the most splendid view. That, and a visit to the old brewery where locals congregate for happy hours. Proost!
House of WafflesBurger King Snacks with a View
There is this old brewery which seems to be favoured by many locals called De Halve Maan (Half Moon). We asked for the blond beer, which tasted a tad sweet, def not bitter, just like ale. From here, we walked back to the city hall area where a free concert was about to begin. We claimed our seats and listened as the orchestra played for a good half hour.
Blond Beer from De Halve MaanEnjoyed an orchestra playing for a half hour here.
We had a lovely weekend here. Our hotel provided breakfasts and we chose to have it in the tiny garden and braved the slight chill. Enough to perk us up every sunny morning. Choosing to stay nights here was a good decision. We found and enjoyed Brugge sans the tourist crowd. Indeed, this medieval city is like Disneyland. You get the crowds from morning till early evening, then have it quiet, serene and lovelier without the crowds by sundown. Perfect!
The canal cruise Have you watched the movie “In Bruges “? That’s the wooden house in that film.
We covered a lot of museums in Amsterdam. Like 7! But only 1 museum in Brussels. Both cities proud of their Van Gogh and Magritte. One with a troubled Dutch mind who found expression in his art. Another who was quite happy with his life as artist, husband, leader and friend and expressed his joys in his art.
The Van Gogh collection is impressive. In his short life, Vincent was prolific, painting almost every single detail of his brief existence. With his numerous self-portraits, you can say he indulged in selfies. The dark rooms and galleries are intended to safeguard and protect his many artworks. The art world has Theo (Vincent’s brother) to thank for supporting Vincent throughout his turbulent moods and insecurities. This brother’s love is soooo moving, and one can understand how and why Theo passed nearly as soon as Vincent left. And just as touching was how Theo’s wife Jo made sure this Van Gogh collection found their way into our world today. Once more, the power of love made everything possible. How wonderful!
On the other hand, I find René Magritte’s collections so well-curated in the museum in Brussels. For less than half the admission price of major museums in Amsterdam, the Magritte Museum is truly value for money. The museum is massive and the collections hung so impressively. Like a lot of thought went into planning how the artworks should be displayed. It is easy to spend a whole afternoon here, and even to “space out” to enjoy this master’s works. The crowds are mostly locals, like Belgian schoolchildren and young adults likely studying art here.
I know. You love Van Gogh. Can’t miss it in Amsterdam. But do visit Magritte Museum in Brussels too. Twice as big if not more than Vincent’s museum in Dutchland, and equally impressive.
The MOCO is one of 4 museums in Museumplein along with Rijksmuseum, Van Gogh and Stedeldijk Museums. Of these 4, we missed only the Rijks but didn’t skip on the Rembrandt Huis which was surprisingly entertaining and engaging. The interactive element of this museum visit wasn’t lost on us. But MOCO? It’s the tiniest of the 4 hardcore museums we visited but packed with the more popular mod art that includes collections of Banksy, Basquiat, Keith Haring, Warhol, Kaws, Icy & Sot, Yayoi Kusamaand more. Well curated and very very entertaining, the MOCO won’t fail to engage a young crowd. Artworks on display bear statements on the artist and the philosophical messages, either perceived or articulated by the artists themselves. For sure, The MOCO has its own philosophy and that message rang throughout the tiny museum. Not imposing, neither conflicting, but quite tolerant and persuasive.
The MOCO
The younger generation seems to relate more with contemporary art and modern art. Perhaps because of the more relatable and provocative messages that their artworks convey. The pop culture is also very persuasive with rebellious advocacies and non-conformist and thought-inducing ideas. Banksy, Icy and Sot are geniuses more than vandals. Their street art have made them familiar with their local audiences across all ages and economic strata. And there’s that element of mystery and danger too as they ply their art under illegitimate circumstances and situations.
Viewing these artworks is like having a dialogue with these artists breaking out of some censorship and restrictions. Not quite the same as viewing the works of Renaissance masters. Both appeal to the senses, but in a different way. I’m rambling, but that’s my take on it. 😊
Take Kaws. This American ex-freelance artist used to do work for Disneyas graphic illustrator and has successfully breached the gap between fine art and commerce. Imagine Mickey Mouse with X eyes. Familiarity with icons like the Mouse plus other brands made Brooklyn-based Kaws’ collectibles such a craze among art fans. A stroke of genius, really, where art crosses the line towards commerce.
Then there’s Basquiat. He and his powerful messages behind his art. Dead too soon such that the art world had to compete for the limited supply of his artworks. Potent expressions on the great divide between rich and poor, black and white, the powerful and the powerless. In his very short life, Basquiat’s not too subtle advocacies found such an effective expression in his art.
All told, MOCO is for everyone to enjoy. In fact, all 4 museums in Museumplein in Amsterdam deserves a visit, plus a separate trip to nearby Rembranthuis. In Amsterdam, that’s what you do!
How do you spend Mother’s Day with your 2 elves? We’ve booked a 2pm walking tour today and the sun promises to be out the entire day with temps high enough to keep us comfortably warm throughout the day. At the last minute, one of the elves booked a Heineken Experience — a beer museum to educate us on the origin and history of this Dutch beer. The ticket is actually more expensive than tickets to Van Gogh and other major museums but it comes with 3 beers! And NOT just your ordinary beer. This one’s just made and delivered 2 days prior so you can’t get it any fresher. 🍻
There were many fun things to do inside the original Heineken brewery. More fun as you say “Proost!” often enough while lifting your beer glasses. The crew here are all young and fun, like they’re all slightly tipsy and friendlier. What it may have lacked in “substance” (how much can you tell about beer, anyway?) , it made up for it in golden liquid experience. Proost!
By 2pm, the walking tour commenced. It grew warmer by now and the sun was beating on us. The history lessons were good but after Heineken, it was difficult to jam all that info in one’s head. Trivia running from the city’s architecture, trading/merchant history, drug issues, red light district, “unplanned” monarchy, gay movement, water/flood engineering, etc. — all these clouded my mind enough.
As we walked back to the Centraal Station for the trip back to our hotel, we decided we’d drop in on the Sex Museum. It’s there. No harm dropping in and costs only €9. Well, that’s money wasted though it drew laughs among us so the fun makes it worthwhile, I guess. Be warned though. No subtleties here. Kamasutra fanatics may welcome the gross installations but really, it’s money and time wasted.
JORDAAN. It’s very bohemian here. Very trendy. My kind of neighborhood. And my elves love it too! A great starter for this trip, despite the first and hopefully the only boo-boo I made. Thought we’d arrive the next day but whoa, it was the same-day (of departure) late evening arrival for us in Amsterdam. Made last-minute booking and Day 1 went smoothly as we woke up bright and cheery in our hotel beside the train station just 2 stops from Schipol.
My 2 “elves” hitting this hip neighborhood. Jordaan and its narrow canals and streets.
Brunch was in Joordan at Espressobar Tazzina after a visit of Noordermarkt. We didn’t want to miss this mercado because it’s open only on Saturdays and Mondays. Neither did we miss Bloemenmarkt to check out the “floating” flower market. The morning nourishment continues at Pancake Amsterdam near Anne Frank Huis. But we didn’t go there; instead we went to OUR HOUSE, a Museum of Electronic Dance Music. Really a techno music museum that’s a haven for DJ wannabes. Honestly didn’t think I’d find myself here but hey, I actually enjoyed it to a point where I may have embarrassed the young adults with me. 🤣 Amazing how technology has changed the music world and how the shift has focused towards world-famous DJs who rocked the club scene. Everything was completely relatable for people across generations — like how I came to reminisce over dance clubs where the tempo is dictated by the choice of danceable music mixed by creative deejays.
Noordermarkt where you’d find organic produce, along with antiques, vintage clothes and jewelry! M playing like a real DJ! Espressobar Tazzina where we preferred to sit by the window looking out onto the busy, vibrant street scene.
By mid afternoon, we found ourselves in Rembrandt House. This interactive museum showed us how the Dutch Master lived, painted, prospered, taught and welcomed friends in his lovely home. The house sits at a corner near the canal and each of the rooms — from the reception area to the large studio and meeting/negotiation room paints a dimension of Rembrandt as a painter, art trader, loving husband and friend. In particular, we loved the room where one is invited to sit and do sketches. A wonderful and meaningful way to spend at least a quarter to half hour in this house. Of course, one can take home his own sketches.
Into Visual Art and Audio Art Rembrandt House
By the time we returned to our hotel, we were dead tired. Joordan, OUR HOUSE, Noordermkt, Bloemenmarkt, Rembrandt House — all compose a fine Day 1 spent in Amsterdam.
It’s been 9 weeks. And before then, around 4 weeks of clinic visits and lab procedures. I haven’t had 13 slow and easy weeks in the last few years. A quick check of my busy travel calendar the last few years confirm this. And you know what? If you’ve been under “house arrest” for a considerable time, the first day out heightens all your senses to appreciate the air you breathe, the noise you hear or perhaps the lack of it, the temps that make you sweat or the breeze that cools your skin. The Harbour Square within the CCP Complex is a favorite spot within the metropolis. Antipolo too but it’s too far out and the traffic going there is near-unbearable. So between the waters and the mountains, I longed to instead count the yachts bobbing up and down in the bay.
There are still a few days before the year is over but Bali was def the last trip in 2019. Thoroughly enjoyed with the family despite the intermittent chest pains, which I assumed must have been acid reflux. My guardian angels must have worked overtime to bring me home safely and guided a family doctor to remind me to see my cardiologist instead of a gastro-enterologist. I did, and then had medical attention in the nick of time. After more tests pre- and post-stenting, my cardiologist declared I’m good to travel again. Yey! Two trips lined up for next year, and now working on a possible 3rd and 4th. I am so happy. And thankful for the trips made in the year 2019 without mishap. I still cringe at the thought that any one of these trips could have turned really nasty. I am thankful as I remember.
Same group on 2 separate trips to Brunei and Malaysia
Ticked off a few squad goals including this Hokkaido in Winter!
So what’s in the drawing boards this coming 2020? Well, there’s a booked Nile cruise in Egypt, and the South American adventure should soon be firmed up, plus there’s that wedding later in the year in Barcelona. Same travel buddies…. unless of course we start growing tired of each other 🙄. We have yet to plan for that trip to Europe with my soon-to-graduate #aponimamu. And another adventure with my soon-to-retire dear friends. We’ll see. Meanwhile, let’s have a truly Merry Christmas in our hearts and a Prosperous, Harmonious New Year ahead.
A third of the fambam in London.
lifeisacelebration 