Tag Archive: Barcelona


Museu Picasso (Barcelona)


We didn’t even have to discuss it. But the lines, the crowds, the noise, got to us. Gaudi had many fans, judging by the crowd that stood in line for Sagrada Familia, Parc Güell, La Pedrera and Casa Batllo. There was an area in Parc Güell where we nearly had the spot all to ourselves. But not for long. As for the rest of Gaudi’s masterpieces, one simply co-exists with the rest of adoring fans. My nieta and I wanted some quiet time. Ciutat Vella is charming but the La Rambla y Barri Gotic areas are littered with camera-toting humans. A few more meters away and we settled in La Ribera. Still teeming with a vibrant vibe, but less touristy. We liked it better here, including El Born area.

My nieta had Museu Picasso in her bucket list but we failed to buy tickets online. We missed the one in Paris so we just had to check this one out. The line for the museum was tolerable, thank God. Housed in 5 of La Ribera’s centuries-old medieval palaces, we were eager to get in and view Picasso’s earlier works. I have to confess I enjoyed the collection better in San Francisco’s MOMA, but I guess we needed to understand that the collection should be appreciated from another perspective. As I said, these are the master’s earlier works and one traces how his art evolved from the traditional and academic to modernist and contemporary. Imagine his works at age 14. So young, yet his brush strokes spoke of his genius and artistry.

Although born in Malaga, Picasso chose to have this museum in Barcelona presumably because he likely feels more connected to this Catalan city. His good friend Jaume Sabartés had quite an extensive collection of his paintings, prints and drawings but Picasso himself added, albeit donated, much of the museum’s extensive collection. More donations were acquired — from Picasso’s widow, friends, other art collectors and various art galleries. Although the major works on exhibit included early Picasso works like the First Communion and Science and Charity, I am more intrigued by the artist’s portraits of himself and beloved father as well as his 58 “versions” of Velasquez’ Las Meninas.

I am a big fan of Diego Velasquez. His Las Meninas is prominently displayed in the Museo del Prado in Madrid. Pablo Picasso must be a big fan too. But why the 58 versions? What was he thinking? He donated his “recreation” of this major artwork when his good friend Sabartes died in 1968. And this is a quote from Picasso himself:

“If someone wants to copy Las Meninas, entirely in good faith, for example, upon reaching a certain point and if that one was me, I would say..what if you put them a little more to the right or left? I’ll try to do it my way, forgetting about Velázquez. The test would surely bring me to modify or change the light because of having changed the position of a character. So, little by little, that would be a detestable Meninas for a traditional painter, but would be my Meninas.”

— Picasso

Frankly, I still don’t get it. I mean, 58 versions kind of smack of an obsession, IMHO. The pieces jump out in vivid colors, unlike the original piece. But Picasso surely made them “his own” in that “distorted, cubist style” so prevalent in his art. Quite prolific, this artist. Well, he did live to a ripe, full age with not an ounce of passion lost through his many (20,000!) works in an astonishing range of style. Maybe it pays to keep inspired? For sure, he had several muses but I’m not going into that. 🙄

Indeed, Pablo Picasso is one significant artist of the 20th century. He started off being trained by his own father, copying many major artworks, and later inventing and reinventing his art. The world became better. He left us with many creations. As well as notable quotes. Quite a man, this Picasso!

“The very act of creation is first of all an act of destruction.” – Pablo Picasso

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A perfect day. Gaudi surrounds. Gaudi abounds in the city. You see it. You smell it. You almost taste it. Casa Batlló, Casa Mila, Parc Güell, Sagrada Familia. There’s more. A Gaudi overload.

 

 

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Rooftop. Casa Batllo. Barcelona.

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Parc Guell. Barcelona.

 

 

It should have been a perfect day for my girls. Barcelona does not disappoint. Gaudi overwhelms, but you can break the sensory overload with a visit to the Black Madonna. Such a trip to Montserrat is both a pilgrimage and a bonus adventure.

 

 

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Interior Shot. Montserrat Basilica.

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Montserrat.

 

 

My girls must have been so carried away with the “serrated” (thus MontSERRAT) mountain scene that they’ve lost track of time. The line to see the Black Madonna up close, the aisle view from the top, the lighted candles in varied colors, the cold breeze — all these add to the spirituality of the shrine.

 

 

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The Black Madonna.

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Lost in time. Wrapped in their thermals. The last funicular just left and my girls must be lighting more candles, whispering their prayers.

 

 

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Twilight in Montserrat.

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Just one option left to return to the city. A downhill hike. An hour in the cold with only the serrated mountains as company. Stony buddies.

 

 

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Well, they got back well before dinner. Huffing and Puffing. And darn COLD. 🙂


What’s all the hype?

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It’s really just a pedestrian path bordered by 2 narrow streets. One attraction is the market in La Boqueria. A convent used to stand on this site. Now it is a busy market bursting with camera-toting tourists snapping photos of fruits, vegetables, Jamon y Quezos and such stuff in lively colors. There are dining places within the market. Not the most comfortable, if you ask me. But we felt compelled to do this touristy thing so we can strike it off our list of must-do’s and must-experience. For the rather steep price we paid, I would rather eat someplace cleaner. 😒

 

 

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Fruits. We found many exotic fruits here, including mangoes and pineapples. My niece bought a pack for us to eat as appetizers while waiting for our paella, pulpo ala gallego, boquerones, and patatas bravas. We ate with our bags on our laps, while listening to an altercation 2 tables away. The diners there were complaining about their “cuenta” or bill. So much for “ambience” dining here where floors are as dirty as can be.

 

 

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Thick with tourists, we easily found tables here. Not as many tourists eat here, I guess. After all, you can have your fill ordering bocadillos while walking along Las Ramblas. This weekend was particularly crowded as even local tourists are here to add numbers. The red, blue and green “hop on, hop off” buses are almost always full. We decided to do the whole route for the red and blue tourist buses rather than hopping off every so often. Besides, not too many sites invited our attention outside of the Gaudi stuff. For sure though, those buses unloaded many tourists here in Las Ramblas. And many stayed till nightfall. The noise in the nearby hotels must be unbearable.

 

 

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Just like back in Madrid, there were policemen spread around the area. This is a haven for pickpockets and scam artists after all. Am not surprised. Every 3-4 persons I met along the path walking from Catalunya all the way to Licieu needed no intro as tourists given their cameras, belt bags and Barcelona maps. My advice? Be sure you have decided where to go before stepping out of your hotel. Commit the directions on the map to memory. Or take a photo with your phone cam. Checking your cellphone invites less attention than spreading a map in the middle of a street. Remember that they don’t just pick pockets here. They can snatch your bags too. I should know. A friend of mine lost a bag containing cash, passport and travel documents here some 10 years ago. Hard lesson to learn.

 

 

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Gaudi. When he graduated from Architecture School, the school director said he’s either a fool or a genius. We all know now how he turned out.

 

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Sagrada Familia is in everyone’s list when visiting Barcelona. Gaudi’s spirituality, religiosity and love for the environment manifest in all his works. His understanding of nature and how he integrated it into his art or his architecture is simply beyond imagination. Unfortunately, Gaudi never taught nor left any written documents of his work.

 

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Inside the Sagrada Familia, one senses Gaudi’s religiosity most profoundly. While his work remains unfinished to this day, this genius spent over 40 years on the Sagrada Familia until his tragic death in 1926. From a well-groomed “man-about-town” given to gourmet tastes, Gaudi’s last few years were marked by frugality. When he was accidentally hit by a tram while crossing a street and lost consciousness, he was mistaken for a beggar and was not given immediate medical attention. Such a sad ending for a man whose works now give Barcelona unparalleled pride.

 

 

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And the details. All of 18 towers representing the 12 apostles, 4 evangelists, Virgin Mary and Jesus Christ. The Nativity facade and all its statues. Inspired by the organic shapes of nature, the interiors integrated Gaudi’s architecture with other crafts where he gained skills like ceramics and stained glass. This modernist style also finds expression in Casa Battló, La Pedrera and Park Guell, to name a few.

 

 

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Gaudi’s style is so distinct, so seemingly unrestricted to a point of flamboyance. You don’t need a tour guide to spot a Gaudi when walking the streets of Barcelona. Casa Batlló is a prime example of Gaudi’s art. The “wavy” structures, ceramic-filled towers, stained glass windows framed by intricately-designed ironworks.. For sure, Gaudi raised a lot of eyebrows during his time!

 

 

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And then there’s Park Güell. Like a fantasy land with all those vibrant colors! My only regret when I visited the park was that I didn’t go much earlier. The crowd was so thick it diminishes one’s delight over this lovely park. Nearly all benches were taken. The grand staircase is so thick with tourists snapping photos of the dragon which has since become a Barcelona landmark.

 

 

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There’s so much more of Gaudi in Barcelona. But be warned. There are long lines. I strongly advise you go early to the Park one morning. Line up early for either Casa Battlló or La Pedrera the next morn. You can fill up the remainder of each day with “non-Gaudi” activities such as Las Ramblas, La Boqueria, Port Véll, Fundacio Joan Miro, Olympic Site, etc.