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Category: Spain

#14 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Palacio Real and Its Gardens

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March 19, 2012

Palaces, castles and humongous cathedrals fascinate every Filipino. 🏰The grandeur, the pomp and pageantry associated with royalty is simply not our reality. Even Malacanañ Palace is really a token 2-story palace compared with what one finds in other parts of the world.

Palacio Real literally translates to “Royal Palace”, much like Real Madrid (of football fame) means “Royal Madrid”. 👑All of 2,800 rooms covering a floor area of 135,000 square meters, it is THE largest palace in all of Europe. So…. Buckingham Palace, move over!

The present King has chosen to live with his royal family 👸elsewhere (Palacio de la Zarzuela) on the outskirts of Madrid. Thus, the State-owned Palace is only used for official or state ceremonies. At the time I visited, the Palace was closed owing to some State ceremony. Though I missed viewing the interiors of this architectural wonder, I joined many others – Madrileños and tourists alike – waiting through all the pageantry. Changing not only of the guards, but also of the horses! And my, those guards are all cuties, I kid you not! Take it from this over-the-hill hag….. I hardly use those words to describe MEN. But I must confess that I do find King Juan Carlos ~~a HUNK~~ very, very charming!

And look at these horses! What is it called — the Spanish Riding Academy? But that’s in Vienna, near the Hofburg Palace. Confused? The Riding School in Vienna was so named because the “noble” horses originated from the Iberian Peninsula. I know zilch about horses but I have read that the Spanish and Arabic horses rank up there among other breeds. No wonder they rub elbows (or butts?) with royalty. ☺

The Palace is just a short walk from the Opera. I took the metro 🚉 up to Opera and walked on the right side of the royal theatre till I reached the Plaza de Oriente, a well-manicured garden on the side of the royal palace. I also didn’t miss the chance to stroll along the Sabatini Garden where I felt I intruded on many a romantic trysts. 💗 Oooooops!

Tags: Europe, Madrid, Palacio Real, Royal Palace, Spain

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#13 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Parque de Retiro Es Rizal’s Favorito

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March 18, 2012

Here’s another favorite haunt of our national hero while he was here in Madrid. Can’t blame him. Parque de Retiro, which used to be exclusive to royalty, is such a pleasure to be in anytime of day. Just take the Linea 2 (red line) metro 🚉 to Retiro and it’s right there as you exit out of the station.

Now, I wonder how many times Rizal went on dates in this park. Remember, JPR lived a frugal life here in Madrid and a paseo around Parque de Retiro would have been a cheap but romantic way to take out a señorita.

These days, you’d find street musicians 🎺🎷🎸🎤 and illegal vendors (selling their wares on laid out rugs)👜💼👢 around the park. It was a bit of a challenge to take a good photo of the pond and the monuments without these characters. And then there are the lovers. 👫💑 Of all kinds.

Sundays are crowded in Parque de Retiro where locals enjoy just strolling around the gardens, 🚲biking, renting boats 🚤 to row around the pond, drinking their cafe con leche ☕ or cafe cortado, shopping for “smuggled” bags 👜peddled by vendors on blankets or rugs laid out on pavements, skateboarding, or simply shooting the breeze while listening to street musicians. 🎤

JPR must have been so inspired by this ex-royal garden that he named his place of exile in Dapitan as “Mi Retiro.” This is also the place where an Igorot woman died in the dead of winter while “on exhibit” in the Exposición de Filipinas in 1887. The exhibit meant to showcase Philippine artifacts, art works and botanical specimens which included “sample Philippine tribe peoples” like the Igorots, Manobos and Negritos. You can just imagine how JPR criticized Spain for its violation of Filipinos’ human rights which resulted in the death of this Igorot human specimen, while other tribe “samples” contracted pneumonia due to the bitter cold.

Tsk. Tsk. It’s stories like these that make me ever so grateful for the sacrifices and bravery of our national heroes. As a reminder of what they went through as against the freedoms that we now enjoy, one can’t help but lament how much we have forgotten. Truly, we as a nation need to reconnect with our past so we do not fail to take things for granted and more importantly, to regain our national identity and pride as a people.

Aaaaahhhh…… Enough said. Or written. 📝

Tags: Europe, Jose Rizal, Madrid, Parque de Retiro, Retiro, Rizal, Rizal's Favorite Haunt, Spain

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#12 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Searching for Luna In Madrid’s Senado

Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 5 Comments

March 16, 2012

Three men fascinate me. Jose Rizal. Ernest Hemingway. Juan Luna. I suspect it is the wild side and mystery about each of these men that attracted me to them. 😉Like you admire them one second. And wish to mother them the next sec.

Back home, Juan Luna’s “Spoliarium” in the National Art Gallery is the highlight of any afternoon spent at the Museum. I’m glad this masterpiece was given ample space to view the obra maestro in all its glory. When my family went on a trip to Ilocos, a visit to the Luna Shrine was most definitely the highlight of that family holiday. When I heard there would be a lecture on Luna and his Art at the GSIS Museum, I thought it was a good idea to combine the lecture with a viewing of Parisien Life, that most controversial GSIS acquisition. When I learned Luna’s “Battle of Lepanto” hangs in the Senate Hall in Madrid, I knew I couldn’t leave Madrid without viewing it!

I sent an email to the Madrid Senado’s website if I may be allowed entry. 🇪🇸 There was an exchange of emails between me and Mercedes who was most kind and accommodating. We fixed a date and time, then she put me in a group of visiting Spanish ladies and apologized that the “tour” would be in Spanish. Bueno!

Of course, no photographs were allowed. We were ushered inside a hall with 4 murals of Spanish painters. One 1859 mural almost tempted me to cheat on Mercedes and take a photo with my iPhone. “La Coronacion de D. Manuel Quintana” (who is he?) by Luis Lopez Piqueo, huge at 428 x 561, is slightly bigger than Juan Luna’s Battle of Lepanto (350 x 550) which hangs on one wall along a narrow corridor. Mercedes was kind enough to open the meeting room across Luna’s mural just so I can have a good view of what I came for. She spoke lengthily about Juan Luna and why I’m so interested in seeing it. Unfortunately, she spoke in Spanish while all the distinguished-looking Doña Victorinas were eyeing me with new interest. 😊

Having seen what I came for, Mercedes invited me to stay on to visit the Senate Hall itself where she said I can take photographs. It looked more like a theatre! Then, we were led to the Library which was really, really awesome. There was this man reading old periodicals while we ladies roamed about with oohs and aaahs (a universal language, I soon learned). The lighting was bad if you ask me, but there were reading lamps. I sneaked a photo of the very Spanish-looking gentleman inside the library just as we were led out to visit another hall in the Senado. This time, it’s a more modern hall. On the way out, there were again paintings of contemporary Spanish painters. I saw one of Joan Mìro. And I dare not cheat on Mercedes again as she reminded everyone that photography is not allowed in these areas. Which is fine — I’m happy with my snapshot of the Spanish Señor inside the Library. 😉

As I thanked Mercedes for a lovely one hour tour of the Senado, she handed me books as souvenirs. Now, isn’t that muy bien? Ha sido un placer en Madrid Sendo. Muchas gracias, Mercedes!

Tags: Battle of Lepanto, Juan Luna, Madrid, Senado, Spain

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#11MADRID BLOG SERIES: The Street Artists of Madrid

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March 15, 2012

They do it for a living. I dare not say “begging artists” simply because they don’t. They offer their artistry, and one is encouraged to “donate” out of appreciation. Mind you, there is pride in their work too.

Right in Puerta del Sol, you’d find lots of them buskers. In fact, you may be standing right next to one. They may appear like stone, marble or wooden statues…….until they start poking at each other, bow, or turn towards you.

There was one busker I saw almost everyday, in various places. Once at Puerta del Sol. The next time in Plaza del Oriente near Palacio Real, the 3rd time as I was waiting for my metro ride!

More than just song and dance numbers, some of these artists play mime, display motor skills with their skateboards or roller blades, make beautiful music with crystal glasses, dress up like Hollywood celebrities, strum their guitars or sing opera songs. You find them in plazas, theatre areas, parks, inside the metro stations, or even inside the trains !

Then, of course, there are those who are not as creative……

Tags: Madrid, Spain, Street Artists

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#10 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Chocolateria San Gines OR Valor?

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Filed under: Europe, Food Trip, Spain, Travel, travels — 4 Comments

March 12, 2012

I have earlier blogged on my first desayuno (breakfast) of churros con chocolate here in Madrid. Where else, but in Chocolateria San Gines. There, I reminisced about my first taste of the churros con chocolate “to die for” back in 2002. I remember telling my nephew then that when I grow old, I would love to put up a coffee bar or Chocolateria like this where a corner table will be reserved for me….. much like the owner — an old man and his dog we met back then.

When I blogged about getting lost tracing my steps back to Chocolateria San Gines, and actually learning (the hard but delicious way) how easy it could have been to find the place (just off Calle del Arenal, walking from Puerta del Sol), a couple of friends suggested I also try the churros con chocolate at Valor. I did. More than that, I also tried a boxful of Valor chocolates!

After more than a couple of weeks setting up house here in Madrid, I finally found time to check out this other chocolate shop. I was surprised to find that it is so near Puerta del Sol. Well actually, much nearer Plaza Callao. A metro ride to Plaza Callao, walking towards Postigo de San Martin, it was delightful to find Chocolateria y Bomboneria Valor.

So, what’s the verdict? Admittedly, Valor is “better located” as Chocolateria San Gines is actually in an alley behind the Iglesia San Gines. Surprisingly, I also met 3 Filipinas waiting on tables in Valor. Now, some say Valor’s interiors are better, especially as one can look out to a livelier street scene in this corner off Plaza Callao. True. But I do like the old charm of San Gines.

The chocolate in Valor is mas sabroso. But I prefer the churros of San Gines! So if I were to choose between the 2, I would really rather get lost searching for Chocolateria San Gines. So there. ☕☕☕

Tags: Chocolate, Chocolateria San Gines, Churros, Madrid, Spain, Valor

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#9 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Jose Rizal’s Favorite Haunts

Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 7 Comments

March 10, 2012

It started with Dr. Jose Rizal’s monument (built in 1996) in Avenida de las Islas Filipinas. Then a friend reminded me of Viva Madrid, the national hero’s favorite restaurant while he was still in university here. Finally, my search for 👨 Juan Luna’s award-winning paintings led me to Hotel Ingles where Filipino patriots met to celebrate his and Felix Resurrecion Hidalgo’s winning the gold and silver medals for their obra maestros.

It was a good walk 👣 from Puerto del Sol, away from Calle Mayor and along Carrera de San Jeronimo. The Net 📲 came in so handy with this guide on which metro line 🚉 to use, where to get off and 👣 walking instructions on how to reach Viva Madrid 🍴Calle Francisco Fernandez y Gonzalez, 7. Love it! My very own GPS. 👌👏

Soon, I found Viva Madrid. Right behind Teatro Español. I checked out the menu and was secretly hoping there is a “Rizal’s Favorite” or something. A drink? Or a dessert? I found none. 😞 But I found a marker.

Just off the corner from Viva Madrid is Los Gabrielles, a music bar then where Filipino propagandists met regularly. I think this venue, described by Rizal in a letter to one of his sisters as having beautiful murals made of ceramic tiles, now hosts flamenco dance performances. 💃👯💃

A few steps more, on the same Calle Echegaray, is Hotel Ingles, 🏫 venue for the banquet tendered in honor of Juan Luna and Felix Resurreccion Hidalgo when they won in the Madrid Exposition of Fine Arts in 1884 with their masterpieces “Spoliarium” (now at the National Art Gallery in Manila) and “Las Virgenes Cristianas Expuestas Al Populacho (Christian Virgins Exposed to the Populace, now at the Metropolitan Museum of Manila). In this banquet, our national hero — who’s said not to have eaten the whole day for lack of funds — gave more than a toast to honor Luna and Hidalgo. More like a speech. A speech so full of bravado and spunk, where Rizal frontally attacked the religious establishment. Perhaps a preview of the Padre Damasos and Padre Silvas in his Noli Me Tangere.

This same hotel is also where our Filipino patriots met for 🎇 🎉 🎆New Year celebrations, or where they usually had their cenas or late dinners. For sure, they didn’t venture far. You see, Hotel Ingles and Los Gabrielles are just likely 30 steps away from each other, and Viva Madrid is just off the corner — perhaps another 30 steps. All in the same neighborhood! And all behind the lovely Teatro Español 🏢🇪🇸…. Errrr, another 30 steps.

Part 2 of Rizal’s Favorite Haunts 🏃👣🚶in the making. Watch this site!

Tags: Francisco Fernandez y Gonzalez, Hotel Ingles, Los Gabrielles, Madrid, Spain, Viva Madrid

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#8 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Bahay Bahayan 101 En Madrid

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Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 2 Comments

March 5, 2012

This is not a travel blog. No travel advice here. Rather, this simply chronicles the steps we took and adventures we experienced while setting up house here in Madrid.

As soon as we found the flat, we spent the past few days window shopping, canvassing and actually buying the stuff we need. Easy to get overwhelmed. So, we listed the “must- haves” and “nice to have” stuff.

Where to sleep? We didn’t scrimp on the bed. A long day at the office demands a good bed to spend as much as 8 hours of relaxation. An extra mattress would double that, while keeping a spare for would-be guests without requiring storage space. The sofa easily converts into a bed at night. So that settles it. Nights would be a dream……

Where to eat? This white dining table and 4 chairs should be adequate. Easy to scrub clean. There is that option to string some cushions too, if one wishes. The set matches a trolley cart which can serve many purposes.

Now comes the starter set, along with the pots and pans. These should take care of the kitchen and dining areas. We can actually eat in!

Now, the sad part. Laundry items! If only we can forget about this. How to keep our clothes clean, dry and pressed good to wear. 😦

Alas, we can now deal with the “minor stuff” — items from the supermarket. From food stuff to toiletries. From pots and pans to detergent and fabric softeners. From bed linen to towels to blankets. Haaaaaaay 😦

Tags: House Hunting, Living in Madrid, Madrid, Spain

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#7 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Toros y Matadors

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Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

March 2, 2012

Back in 2002, I had the chance to watch a bullfight in Madrid’s Plaza de Toros. I still remember vividly the simple decisions we made which spelled a helluva difference on how much we enjoyed the bullfight. Like buying a ticket for a seat that’s “half out in the sun, half in the shade”. And renting cushions for the stone seats. Frankly, I don’t think I’d last 2 hours sitting on those stone seats under the sun! And you’d thank me for heeding this most important advice.

Bullfights begin in May. So maybe I’d get a chance to watch another one before I head home. But I do want to see the Plaza de Toros early on, remembering how impressed I was with the plaza cum colloseo built in neo-mudejar style in 1929 that seats as many as 22,000 spectators.

It took many Metro stops to reach Ventas. As soon as I climbed out of the Metro Station, the same, familiar expanse of the Plaza greeted me. I went to the ticket booth to inquire, possibly buy tickets for the next corrida. Instead, I ended up buying a ticket for a tour of the Bullring and the Museo Taurino inside.

Of course it is not the same as being there hearing all the yelling and cheering during an actual corrida. My 2002 memory was a mixed bag of anxiety, thrill, panic, and pity for the poor beast. This time around, I needed the sobriety of being shown around empty stone seats with this young good looking Spaniard rendering a history in the best English he could muster. Besides, it was quite thrilling for me to be standing right there in the middle where matadors and bulls face off!

The Museo Taurino did not allow photography. I did the next best thing to do. Do the museum TWICE! No worries, it is a small Museo with exhibits of busts, paintings and paraphernalia of famous matadors. I missed the only bullfighter I know, errrr I heard of. Manolete. Realizing I was at the exit area as soon as I saw the sign SALIDA, I asked if I could go back and look for dear old Manolete. The old Spanish gentleman at the gate was kind enough to let me and even shouted instructions to the lady guard inside to ensure I’m guided to Manolete’s gallery. Muy bien!

(Last photo sourced from the Net, to give you an idea of the size of this bullring)

Tags: bullfights, corrida, las ventas, Madrid, plaza de toros, Spain

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#6 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Paseos, Museos and Searching for Luna

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March 1, 2012

Today I’m ready for another Photowalk. Best in the mornings, then brunch, then siesta? It’s amazing how days somehow fall into some kind of routine.

Free hours at the Museum are late afternoons or early evenings anyway. (Cheapskate!) But I can’t wait. When I saw that the Museo de Prado has some Hermitage artworks on exhibit, I immediately bought a ticket so I can have more time to leisurely view the collections. Spent all of 2 hours viewing the Prado collections and another 2 hours for a quick lunch in the Museum Cafeteria and the Hermitage exhibits.

No photographs allowed inside. But I’m happy. Truly, the Prado is Madrid’s pride. The immense hoard of Spanish treasures, along with those of Flemish, Dutch, Italian masters feed the soul. My favorites are Goya’s “The Naked Maja” , Rubens “Adoration of the Magi” and “Three Graces”, El Bosco’s “The Garden of Delights” and Van der Weyden’s “Descent from the Cross”. I also liked Velasquez’ Meninas and Crucified Christ. The Hermitage Collection is an added bonus. I have been to the Hermitage in St. Petersburg back in 2004 and promptly concluded that Catherine the Great is the greatest shopper, collector and hoarder of them all. I’m no art connoisseur but I enjoyed my time at the Museum.

How I wish Juan Luna’s painting of “The Battle of Lepanto” is also hanging here rather than in Madrid’s Senado. I have yet to figure out how to view this masterpiece, but I’m determined not to leave Madrid without seeing it. (I actually did. Check out my blog on it) It also gives one immense pride to see Juan Luna’s “Death of Cleopatra” hanging side by side with Spanish Masters. Unfortunately, the 2nd time I visited the Prado to view this Luna painting once more, it was no longer there. When I checked with the Information Desk, I was informed it was put on storage. 😦

As i walked out of Prado, I turned green with envy of the guests staying in the adjacent Ritz Hotel. Such a lovely edificio! And in the best location too! One day. One day soon. I shook off the envy and instead dropped in on nearby San Jeronimo Church before rounding up the corner to view the Plaza de la Cibeles. One thing I love about Madrid is the many rotundas, gloriettas, museos, plazas, monuments, fountains and gardens they have. This city, both cosmopolitan and “old world” at the same time, makes each day a photowalk day.

I was tempted to walk back to Puerta del Sol from the corner where Banco Espana stood and where I can get a glimpse of Cybele, the Greek fertility goddess, looking smug seated on a chariot pulled by 2 lions. Naaah. Not today. No rush. Today is strictly Museum Day. Prado Day. Thyssen and the rest can wait another day.

Can’t resist including this excerpt from Rizal’s impromptu speech at a dinner in honor of Luna and Hidalgo at the Hotel Ingles:

“Luna and Hidalgo are as much Spanish glories as they are Filipino. Just as they were born in the Philippines, they could have been born in Spain, because genius has no country, genius blossoms everywhere, genius is like the light, the air, it is the heritage of all”

Tags: Cleopatra, Death Of Cleopatra, Juan Luna, Luna, Madrid, Museo de Prado, Prado Museum, Spain

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#5 MADRID BLOG SERIES: Los Indios Meet Rizal In Madrid

Filed under: Europe, Spain, Travel, travels — 6 Comments

Another photowalk till my legs ached. Calling it quits for the day, I took the same path towards our hotel for the week. 🚶Along the way, I stopped by the Islas de Filipinas and Madrid’s equivalent of our Rizal Park. ⛲There are similar parks for the other countries which centuries before were colonies of Spain.🇪🇸

Inside the park, there is a joggers’ path 👣👟🏃and a bike lane.🚲 Several benches were scattered inside the park where the center has been developed into a golf range.⛳ In one corner, there was even a cervezaria. 🍺The classier version of our beer garden. 🍻

At the corner is the monument to our national hero, flanked by two tablets of Dr. Jose Rizal’s Mi Ultimo Adios and its Filipino translation.📝 Imagine that! Dear Spain had this man, our national hero, wiped off the face of the earth yet built this monument in his memory.