Back in 2002, I had the chance to watch a bullfight in Madrid’s Plaza de Toros. I still remember vividly the simple decisions we made which spelled a helluva difference on how much we enjoyed the bullfight. Like buying a ticket for a seat that’s “half out in the sun, half in the shade”. And renting cushions for the stone seats. Frankly, I don’t think I’d last 2 hours sitting on those stone seats under the sun! And you’d thank me for heeding this most important advice.
Bullfights begin in May. So maybe I’d get a chance to watch another one before I head home. But I do want to see the Plaza de Toros early on, remembering how impressed I was with the plaza cum colloseo built in neo-mudejar style in 1929 that seats as many as 22,000 spectators.
It took many Metro stops to reach Ventas. As soon as I climbed out of the Metro Station, the same, familiar expanse of the Plaza greeted me. I went to the ticket booth to inquire, possibly buy tickets for the next corrida. Instead, I ended up buying a ticket for a tour of the Bullring and the Museo Taurino inside.
Of course it is not the same as being there hearing all the yelling and cheering during an actual corrida. My 2002 memory was a mixed bag of anxiety, thrill, panic, and pity for the poor beast. This time around, I needed the sobriety of being shown around empty stone seats with this young good looking Spaniard rendering a history in the best English he could muster. Besides, it was quite thrilling for me to be standing right there in the middle where matadors and bulls face off!
The Museo Taurino did not allow photography. I did the next best thing to do. Do the museum TWICE! No worries, it is a small Museo with exhibits of busts, paintings and paraphernalia of famous matadors. I missed the only bullfighter I know, errrr I heard of. Manolete. Realizing I was at the exit area as soon as I saw the sign SALIDA, I asked if I could go back and look for dear old Manolete. The old Spanish gentleman at the gate was kind enough to let me and even shouted instructions to the lady guard inside to ensure I’m guided to Manolete’s gallery. Muy bien!
(Last photo sourced from the Net, to give you an idea of the size of this bullring)
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