Tag Archive: Spain



This is not a travel blog. No travel advice here. Rather, this simply chronicles the steps we took and adventures we experienced while setting up house here in Madrid.

 

 

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As soon as we found the flat, we spent the past few days window shopping, canvassing and actually buying the stuff we need. Easy to get overwhelmed. So, we listed the “must- haves” and “nice to have” stuff.

 

 

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Where to sleep? We didn’t scrimp on the bed. A long day at the office demands a good bed to spend as much as 8 hours of relaxation. An extra mattress would double that, while keeping a spare for would-be guests without requiring storage space. The sofa easily converts into a bed at night. So that settles it. Nights would be a dream……

 

 

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Where to eat? This white dining table and 4 chairs should be adequate. Easy to scrub clean. There is that option to string some cushions too, if one wishes. The set matches a trolley cart which can serve many purposes.

 

 

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Now comes the starter set, along with the pots and pans. These should take care of the kitchen and dining areas. We can actually eat in!

 

 

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Now, the sad part. Laundry items! If only we can forget about this. How to keep our clothes clean, dry and pressed good to wear. 😦

 

 

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Alas, we can now deal with the “minor stuff” — items from the supermarket. From food stuff to toiletries. From pots and pans to detergent and fabric softeners. From bed linen to towels to blankets. Haaaaaaay 😦


 

Back in 2002, I had the chance to watch a bullfight in Madrid’s Plaza de Toros. I still remember vividly the simple decisions we made which spelled a helluva difference on how much we enjoyed the bullfight. Like buying a ticket for a seat that’s “half out in the sun, half in the shade”. And renting cushions for the stone seats. Frankly, I don’t think I’d last 2 hours sitting on those stone seats under the sun! And you’d thank me for heeding this most important advice.

 

 

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Bullfights begin in May. So maybe I’d get a chance to watch another one before I head home. But I do want to see the Plaza de Toros early on, remembering how impressed I was with the plaza cum colloseo built in neo-mudejar style in 1929 that seats as many as 22,000 spectators.

 

 

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It took many Metro stops to reach Ventas. As soon as I climbed out of the Metro Station, the same, familiar expanse of the Plaza greeted me. I went to the ticket booth to inquire, possibly buy tickets for the next corrida. Instead, I ended up buying a ticket for a tour of the Bullring and the Museo Taurino inside.

 

 

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Of course it is not the same as being there hearing all the yelling and cheering during an actual corrida. My 2002 memory was a mixed bag of anxiety, thrill, panic, and pity for the poor beast. This time around, I needed the sobriety of being shown around empty stone seats with this young good looking Spaniard rendering a history in the best English he could muster. Besides, it was quite thrilling for me to be standing right there in the middle where matadors and bulls face off!

 

 

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The Museo Taurino did not allow photography. I did the next best thing to do. Do the museum TWICE! No worries, it is a small Museo with exhibits of busts, paintings and paraphernalia of famous matadors. I missed the only bullfighter I know, errrr I heard of. Manolete. Realizing I was at the exit area as soon as I saw the sign SALIDA, I asked if I could go back and look for dear old Manolete. The old Spanish gentleman at the gate was kind enough to let me and even shouted instructions to the lady guard inside to ensure I’m guided to Manolete’s gallery. Muy bien!

 

 

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(Last photo sourced from the Net, to give you an idea of the size of this bullring)


Today I’m ready for another Photowalk. Best in the mornings, then brunch, then siesta? It’s amazing how days somehow fall into some kind of routine.

 

 

Free hours at the Museum are late afternoons or early evenings anyway. (Cheapskate!) But I can’t wait. When I saw that the Museo de Prado has some Hermitage artworks on exhibit, I immediately bought a ticket so I can have more time to leisurely view the collections. Spent all of 2 hours viewing the Prado collections and another 2 hours for a quick lunch in the Museum Cafeteria and the Hermitage exhibits.

 

 

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No photographs allowed inside. But I’m happy. Truly, the Prado is Madrid’s pride. The immense hoard of Spanish treasures, along with those of Flemish, Dutch, Italian masters feed the soul. My favorites are Goya’s “The Naked Maja” , Rubens “Adoration of the Magi” and “Three Graces”, El Bosco’s “The Garden of Delights” and Van der Weyden’s “Descent from the Cross”. I also liked Velasquez’ Meninas and Crucified Christ. The Hermitage Collection is an added bonus. I have been to the Hermitage in St. Petersburg back in 2004 and promptly concluded that Catherine the Great is the greatest shopper, collector and hoarder of them all. I’m no art connoisseur but I enjoyed my time at the Museum.

 

 

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How I wish Juan Luna’s painting of “The Battle of Lepanto” is also hanging here rather than in Madrid’s Senado. I have yet to figure out how to view this masterpiece, but I’m determined not to leave Madrid without seeing it. (I actually did. Check out my blog on it) It also gives one immense pride to see Juan Luna’s “Death of Cleopatra” hanging side by side with Spanish Masters. Unfortunately, the 2nd time I visited the Prado to view this Luna painting once more, it was no longer there. When I checked with the Information Desk, I was informed it was put on storage. 😦

 

 

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As i walked out of Prado, I turned green with envy of the guests staying in the adjacent Ritz Hotel. Such a lovely edificio! And in the best location too! One day. One day soon. I shook off the envy and instead dropped in on nearby San Jeronimo Church before rounding up the corner to view the Plaza de la Cibeles. One thing I love about Madrid is the many rotundas, gloriettas, museos, plazas, monuments, fountains and gardens they have. This city, both cosmopolitan and “old world” at the same time, makes each day a photowalk day.

 

 

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I was tempted to walk back to Puerta del Sol from the corner where Banco Espana stood and where I can get a glimpse of Cybele, the Greek fertility goddess, looking smug seated on a chariot pulled by 2 lions. Naaah. Not today. No rush. Today is strictly Museum Day. Prado Day. Thyssen and the rest can wait another day.

 

 

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Can’t resist including this excerpt from Rizal’s impromptu speech at a dinner in honor of Luna and Hidalgo at the Hotel Ingles:

 

 

“Luna and Hidalgo are as much Spanish glories as they are Filipino. Just as they were born in the Philippines, they could have been born in Spain, because genius has no country, genius blossoms everywhere, genius is like the light, the air, it is the heritage of all”


Another photowalk till my legs ached. Calling it quits for the day, I took the same path towards our hotel for the week. 🚢Along the way, I stopped by the Islas de Filipinas and Madrid’s equivalent of our Rizal Park. β›²There are similar parks for the other countries which centuries before were colonies of Spain.πŸ‡ͺπŸ‡Έ

 

 

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Inside the park, there is a joggers’ path πŸ‘£πŸ‘ŸπŸƒand a bike lane.🚲 Several benches were scattered inside the park where the center has been developed into a golf range.β›³ In one corner, there was even a cervezaria. 🍺The classier version of our beer garden. 🍻

 

 

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At the corner is the monument to our national hero, flanked by two tablets of Dr. Jose Rizal’s Mi Ultimo Adios and its Filipino translation.πŸ“ Imagine that! Dear Spain had this man, our national hero, wiped off the face of the earth yet built this monument in his memory.

 

 

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I may not speak Spanish but somehow feel unintimidated by this somewhat familiar language. I couldn’t resist eavesdropping whenever and wherever I am, catching a few understandable words but get stumped not being able to figure out the whole deal.

 

 

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I downloaded this Spanish Talk Pad and thought it was a most clever thing to do. Ha! Ha! And another Ha! The easy part is when you are able to express yourself, with or without the Talk Pad, either with a question or a statement. The hard part is getting a response and not understanding it. Duh 😦

 

 

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Like getting directions. Easy enough to begin with “Donde……” and getting confused with the isquierda (left) and derecha (right!) directions. These are words which found their way into our local language….. but somehow the meanings got crossed or lost.

 

 

So, imagine us Indios hunting for an apartment in Madrid. With all the Internet research on available flats within our budget, picking up that phone to dial the number and inquire is an ordeal. ☎ You see, hand gestures don’t work over the telephone. Yay, what to do?

 

 

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We prayed for an angel. We found one. Through a friend, we met this Pinay working as a waitress in an Italian Resto who speaks Spanish fluently. What’s more, she just happens to be on a one-week leave. For 3 days, she made telephone calls, scheduled the visits, and accompanied us inspecting the apartments. She even negotiated in our behalf. We “followed” her negotiations through the familiar uno-dos-tres numbers we Pinoys have grown used to. Thank God!

 

 

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This morning, we finally found the flat we wanted. Not exactly in the price range we wanted for its size, but we drew comfort in the friendliness of the porter and admin staff and the location. Move-in set this March 5. We’re “squatters” in Doyee’s flat 2 floors down while Mayette’s own flat is not yet ready for occupancy. Time to do our laundry too. Having concluded the deal, I passed one bar and decided to have my regular brew. No hot chocolate this time. Nor cafe con leche. Too much milk there. Had cafe cortado instead —- more coffee than milk. β˜• My usual. And a cinnamon roll. Then, back to my hotel for some siesta. The next few days would be devoted to some serious IKEA shopping.

 

 

Hasta luego! I’d get busy with the laundry.

 

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Day 2 in Madrid. No jet lag. Perfect weather. A tad cloudy but not so cold. Hotel wifi sucks. Books to read. Need a perfect spot somewhere quiet. But not before a good stroll cum exercise around Plaza Mayor.

 

 

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Kilometro O….. No Tio Pepe signage in sight. Instead, Β I found mimes and Disney characters within the Puerta del Sol.

 

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Walking along Calle Mayor, I smiled when I spotted Museo de Jamon as I remembered a lunch here with my nephew and dear friends some 10 years ago. Also, searching and finding Chocolateria de San GinesΒ Β brings cheer. Churros con chocolate never fails!

 

 

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Another discovery off Calle Mayor is Mercado de San Miguel. (Soon my fav place here in Madrid) This place was teeming with SeΓ±ors y SeΓ±oras having their late lunch here. Food porn to the max. Had lunch on my feet as I moved from stall to stall! Ohhh, those croquettes were sooooo delicious!

 

 

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Finding my way back to Plaza Mayor, I took photos and videos of lovely Spanish children with their kindergarten teachers. How delightful to just watch them laughing and pushing each other!

 

 

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From Sol, I took the Metro to pass the remainder of the afternoon and early evening in Retiro Park. Found a bench where I read my book with music provided by these street artists.

 

 

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What a 2nd day well-spent! Back in the hotel, I reviewed the photos and was pleasantly surprised (and envious?) to find a lovely gay couple in this photo. Not intentional. But there. Don’t you love it?

 

 

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The last time I was here was back in 2002. To this day, I still remember the chocolate con churros we had at the famous Chocolateria de San Gines. Having resolved that this is where my first Desayuno in Spain will be, my Day 2 in Madrid got me up and out of the hotel by 8:30am.

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But first things first. I dropped in on a nearby Iglesia. πŸ’’Guess what, I ended up staying for the 9am mass. Lovely way to start the day. Seated on the last pew, I was startled as a young boy sidled up to me and made guttural sounds. Turns out he was there by himself, and that he didn’t mean any harm. Just being playful. Like any other boy. πŸ‘Ό Just the same, I moved up to the front pew after communion. Found this old man and another young boy — maybe aged 5 or 6 — seated in front of me. Found it so touching to see this caring boy prompting his grandpa to stand, sit or kneel during the mass. These scenes touched me so.πŸ™

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So, on a happy note and on this cloudy day, ☁I began my journey to the center of Madrid. The blue line took me from Rios Rosas Station to SOL.πŸšƒπŸš‰ Kilometro 0 to be exact. I tried searching for the Tio Pepe signage but found none. Must be on that building now under renovation. I steeled myself from going to the El Corte Ingles πŸ‘’πŸ‘—πŸ‘œdepartment store and instead walked along Calle Mayor in search of Plaza Mayor.

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Back on Calle Mayor, I passed Museo De Jamon🍴 (my beloved pig!) and turned too many corners in search of Iglesia de San Gines. I was lost! Rested on a bench somewhere where I took this lovely shot of a white cross in a small plaza just off a corner store with a “fancy name”.

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Though lost, I’ve got to say I had no worries. Everything looked familiar. Perhaps because we got lost too back in 2002. My, this chocolate con churros makes a determined glutton out of me.β˜• Soon, I found the chocolateria just off the Iglesia de San Gines. Having existed since 1894, I wonder if any of our national heroes have tried breakfast here too.

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For €3.70, you get a cuppa of hot, sticky chocolate and 6 pieces of churros to die for! I felt guilty leaving a couple of pieces and wished I had company. Four pieces of churros in one sitting is a lot for me. So I decided to “get lost” some more to deal with all the extra glucose and starch. Aaaaaaah, HAPPINESS. πŸ˜„πŸ˜πŸ˜±

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Just before this journey into cuchinillo country, we took time to visit Cebu. Land of Lechon and Chicharon. I still have my backblogs on our visits to Boljoon, Dalaguete, Carcar and Simala, but these would have to give way to my first journal on our flight out of Manila into this land of cuchinillo, tapas, flamenco y abanicos. ✈

 

 

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Still reeling from my hypertensive moments post-Cebu, I promised myself I’d stay away from my beloved pig. On February 22 we took our 11:40pm Emirates flight into Madrid via Dubai. All of 15 hours combined or so, plus 3 hours waiting in Dubai for the connecting flight. The 2 flights each served 2 meals which I happily munched through 4 in-flight movies. Didn’t even get the chance to read my book. Had a few winks, only to wake up and agonize over whether to have the Arabic Mezze or the Deli platter. And that’s only for breakfast!

 

 

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Dubai airport is truly grandiose but lacks the character I found in Singapore’s Changi or Hongkong Airport. Perhaps I missed a few interesting corners, so I vowed to give it a second review on my homeward journey. As for Madrid’s Barajas Airport, it looks like any other as we breezed through immigration and got out in this bitter cold weather at 12:30pm! Immediately, I felt justified squeezing in my fleece vest into my 10 kilo trolley bag.

 

 

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By the time we reached our NH Breton Hotel in the Chamartin area, I was lusting for a quick shower and jumping into my bed. The hotel is centrally located. Just off the corner is a bus stop and the Metro. Right in front of the hotel is a fruit store and beside it, a 24 hour convenience store. I promptly bought 4 big bottles of mineral water, a dozen oranges, bread, cold cuts, yogurt and vegetable salad. And some lip balm and skin cream too. My chapped lips and dry skin need some TLC after only a few hours out in the cold.

 

 

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Having freshened up, I did a quick round up for a late afternoon walk and check-see of the metro station and nearby dining places. I was pleased to find that Rios Rosas Metro Station is just a short walk from the hotel. I took mental note of the Blue and Red Lines which will take me to the Sol and Retiro Stations. Also of the food outlets serving Desayuno (breakfast of churros con chocolate or cafe con leche) for only €2. This is way better than the €12 breakfasts available in the hotel! On lazy mornings, I can even make my own sandwich with the bread, cold cuts and vegetable salad I bought.

 

 

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Self-Served Breakfasts!

 

 

All things looking up. Except one very important thing. Internet. Enjoyed the free 30minute wifi, only to be prompted to buy at €8.85 per day for unli-surfing. I made full use of the free wifi in the hotel. Refusing to pay the €8.85 daily Internet rate (who are they kidding?), I find it uncool to pay €80 for a room with no free wifi.

 

 

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I am NOT cranky yet. I have my books. But these Internet withdrawal symptoms are getting in the way. Woke up early at 5am. Looked out the window from our hotel room. By 7:30am, it was still dark. Sunlight came at 8am. I downed 4 naranjas in one sitting just to shake off the blues. Got to find a coffee shop with free wifi. Tried 2, but no luck. The waitress said they don’t share the password with paying diners. And this is Madrid in the heart of Europe! Ooooops. There goes the temper. Gawd, I need another shower.

 

 

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View From Our Hotel Window