Tag Archive: Incredible India



India is never short on ancient forts, palaces, towers, temples, monuments. Among its many heritage sites is this 12th century complex which includes this soaring 75-meter tower erected soon after the defeat of Delhi’s last Hindu Kingdom. Come sunset, it glows as a lovely redstone and marble minaret. The complex is quite manageable to explore, and we picked a lovely time of the day to do it.

 

 

The 2nd tallest minaret in India, just a few kilometers south of Delhi.

The 2nd tallest minaret in India, just a few kilometers south of Delhi.

We found many local tourists within the complex.

We found many local tourists within the complex.

 

 

We visited the Qutab Minar complex on our last day in India, just hours before our departure. Glad we didn’t miss this site which is another UNESCO World Heritage Site. The minaret towers above some ruins much like The Forum in Rome, Italy. Built to honor the onset of Islamic rule in India, Qutub Minar is not without controversy. Sometimes called Qutab, after the first Islamic ruler, or Qutub which literally translates to “pole of justice”, the tower symbolizes “Islamic Justice”in this corner of the world.

 

 

It was a lovely time of day to visit Qutab Minar.

It was a lovely time of day to visit Qutab Minar.

Islamic calligraphy (verses from the Quran) and Hindu motifs combine in many of the monuments to be found here.

Islamic calligraphy (verses from the Quran) and Hindu motifs combine in many of the monuments to be found here.

 

 

Earthquakes. Wear and Tear. All these left the tower damaged and tilted slightly on one side. The first 3 storeys are made of red sandstone, the next 4th and 5th of marble. The many steps could be scaled before but a recent accident involving schoolchildren forced authorities caring for the monument to stop such uphill excursions. Access is not allowed now. The view from the top must be lovely, especially at sunset, when the adjacent red sandstone ruins within the complex glow as the sun fades from view.

 

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He is called by many titles, but one sticks out in my mind. The “King of Marvels”. Rightfully so. It would have been enough to say he founded Taj Mahal, to honor his beloved Mumtaz Mahal, his favorite wife. But there is more. Truly, his reign was marked by a golden era in arts and architecture in this exotic country. Incredible India, Incredible Shah Jahan! 

 

 

It sparkles under the sun. It glistens under a crescent moon.

It sparkles under the sun. It glistens under a crescent moon.

This is how the Taj Mahal looks when viewed from Agra Fort, just 2 kms away.

This is how the Taj Mahal looks when viewed from Agra Fort, just 2 kms away.

 

 

Besides Taj Mahal, give credit to Shah Jahan for a few more heritage sites. There’s Agra Fort, just a stone’s throw from the iconic Taj Mahal. It is also the place where Shah Jahan breathed his last. Right there in the Octagonal Tower of Agra Fort where he was imprisoned by one of his own sons following a war of succession. Sad. As cliché as it sounds, it’s where he viewed the “eternal teardrop on the cheek of time”. And while Taj Mahal sparkles, the Agra Fort is another marvel in its own right. 

 

 

Moti Masjid  (Pearl Mosque) inside Agra Fort

Hall of Private Audience (Diwan i Khas) inside Agra Fort

You get more than enough dose of those arches here. Lovely!

Diwan I Aam. Hall of Public Audience.

 

 

Once the capital of India before Shah Jahan moved it to Delhi, Agra is never short on monuments and forts. Most people just visit the Taj Mahal. Well, it is certainly worth seeing, and I perfectly understand if tourists spend more time there or wish to simply have their “moments” by not adding more sites to their list after seeing the Taj. But the Agra Fort sort of completes the journey to Agra. Shah Jahan is an absolute builder of marvels and his preference for buildings made of white marble shows in this addition to the red sandstone fort started by his grandfather. The Moti (meaning pearl) Masjid is a fine example of Mughal architecture.

 

 

The 16th century Mughal monument known as Agra Fort

The 16th century Mughal monument known as Agra Fort

Agra has lots to offer beside the Taj Mahal.

Agra has lots to offer beside the Taj Mahal.

 

 

There are more. But Shah Jahan’s final masterpiece is the Jama Masjid, touted as the largest mosque in India. Amidst the chaos of the bazaar just across it, this “Friday Mosque” can hold as many 25,000 devotees. Like many other temples, we left our footwear just outside the mosque to walk on tiles dating from the 17th century. Towering over Old Delhi, the mosque is an aberration in this otherwise chaotic world of rickshaws and narrow alleys. A ride in one of these rickshaws past many open-fronted stalls, many spilling into the alleys, breaks all tranquility gained from a few minutes inside the Mosque courtyard. Incredible!

 
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Ranakpur is some 5 hours drive from the blue city of Johdpur. The 15th century temple in the Aravali Valley hardly invited my attention for 2 reasons. First, I knew zilch about Jainism. Second, I have the beginnings of temple and fortress-fatigue by now. It didn’t help that the roads leading to Raknapur was such a rugged landscape, no lush forests nor vegetation, and our long trip was marked only by an occasional strange rock formation here and there.

 

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Out of the mud, cow dung and rubbish littering Johdpur’s narrow alleys into Aravali Valley past processions of holy cows and goats meandering along the major roads, we came face to face with monkeys guarding the temple gates. I confess monkeys scare me out of my wits but these monkeys were quiet, oblivious to our presence and obviously uninterested in humans. The nearly peaceful demeanor must have something to do with the tenets of Jainism which invokes that all living things have divine souls.

 

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This belief kept the Jains inside their homes by sunset, wont to linger outside in the dark where they may accidentally step on bugs and other tiny insects. You bet you won’t see a Jain swat a fly or shoo shoo a flying beetle. The idea drives me insane but such is their faith which commands respect and yes, admiration.

 

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Jainism is one of 3 ancient Indian religious traditions along with Buddhism and Hinduism. It promotes not only non-violence to living creatures but also non- possessiveness or absence of wordly attachments. Some Jains believe monks should be naked, completely renouncing all passions and bodily instincts and senses. A tough order, if you ask me. Yet for all its non-material attachments, I do find their temple an architectural wonder in marble. What with the corbelled ceiling and ornately designed arches as well as all 1,444 pillars — no 2 pillars are the same —intricately decorated.

 

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It may not have spread across oceans outside India, but there remain Jain communities within this incredible nation. Naked Jains? We spotted one. And frankly, it’s easier for me to understand that than letting tiny bugs bite them young babies. I won’t, can’t aspire to be a Jain. Non-violence yes, but I think I’d still instinctively hit a mosquito within swatting distance. 😔

 

 

 

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Sourced from the Net. The entire Fort with its MANY palaces.

Sourced from the Net. The entire Fort with its MANY palaces.

Another day, another palace. I can get used to this. Before this visit, I have only heard of the Taj Mahal, Amber Fort and Udaipur’s Taj Lake Palace. Yet our iti included meal stops in former palaces or royal manors, and each city — pink (Jaipur), white (Udaipur) or blue (Johdpur) — has its own top attraction in the form of another fortress or palace. For sure, the monarchs of that time didn’t scrimp on their extravagant residences. 

The Fort, perched atop a hill, enclosed by the Blue City of Johdpur.

The Fort, perched atop a hill, enclosed by the Blue City of Johdpur.

Photo Credit: Ernie Albano

Photo Credit: Ernie Albano

From a distance, Mehrangharh Fort reminded me of Table Mountain in Cape Town, South Africa. BUT with the addition of imposing thick walls enclosing not one or two, but several palaces high above the blue city of Johdpur. Its sheer size renders it one of the largest forts in India, right atop a rocky hill known as the mountain of birds. We climbed up through a winding path passing several gates, mindful of many birds flying above us. In Sanskrit, Mehrangarh means “Sun Fort”. Inside, one finds the Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace), Phool Mahal (Flower Palace), Sheesha Mahal (Mirror Palace) and a few more. You may have guessed “Mahal” means Palace. Like “Pur” means city (Jaipur, Johdpur, Udaipur) while “Than” (as in Rajasthan) means place.

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My friend Emy on uphill climb towards one of the formidable Gates.

Y My friend Emy on uphill climb towards one of the formidable Gates.

It is not surprising to hear that the Fort is haunted. After all, a man was burned alive in its foundation as a sort of offering. Past the gate are markings of small handprints — the self-immolation marks of royal widows who threw themselves on the funeral pyres of their maharajas. What a way to die!

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From latticed windows, the wives and concubines watch goings-on in the palaces’ courtyards. One palace has a ceiling made of gold filigree and mirrors. Another has stained glasses which look marvelous in the glow of the afternoon sun. Only shows off the wealth and power of Marwar’s rulers of that period. Museum pieces include many paintings and other art pieces — a glimpse into royal hobbies and interests. And how about those polo outfits which found their way into today’s fashion? Johdpur’s they’re called — those riding pants with many folds and looking loose on your hips but tight from the knees down.

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I wish I can look out from any of those arched windows!

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Mirrors, glass all around!

Have I mentioned that the place is haunted? There must be lots of stories to tell.

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“All travel has its advantages. If the passenger visits better countries, he may learn to improve his own. And if fortune carries him to worse, he may learn to enjoy it.” – Samuel Johnson

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The Man and His Camel

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The Many Bright Colors of Indian Fabrics

India is a progressive country, yielding so many young billionaires like it’s in fashion! I saw the riches, glamour and the princely pleasures of the majaranas and maharajas in their past echoing into their current life situation, as well as the poverty and chaos to be found in the rural villages and narrow alleys of the cities.

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Diwali “flowers” Sold Along Major Streets

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A Bullock Cart Ride Across A Rural Village near Bijay Niwas

Twilight Zone it seemed as one is transported from the comforts of a former royal manor to a rural village where cow dung is held sacred. Or being whizzed through narrow alleys past stalls selling nearly anything from candied sweets to multi-colored grains and spices, to fabrics glowing with gemstones to carpets sold as cost overruns and rejects from fashionable name stores in Paris and Milan. Truly, a sensory overload and I have not even begun to describe our actual experience.

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Street Photography

Parasols In Lovely Colors

Parasols In Lovely Colors

Photographers would have a blast capturing human interest shots here. Indian women are so beautiful, so exotic-looking, especially with their colorful sarees. The wide-eyed children with curly locks aren’t camera-shy and would even prod you to photograph them. What’s best is many locals love having their photos with tourists like us. Many times I evaded the cam thinking I’m photobombing —- only for the locals to ask me to stay put and pose with them. Incredible Indians!

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The markets here extend way over the main roads, sometimes spilling right in front of temple gates or along fortress walls. Camel and donkey carts, along with the occasional elephant, compete with rickshaws and tuktuks for attention. Haggling is an art, as ancient as the forts and palaces. I didn’t observe any zoning system, finding mansions side by side with shanties. There is absolutely no pretense to hide the bad, the ugly, the dirty. The stark and naked truth either shocks or charms you. Either way it hits you, India is truly incredible to the core.

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The eve of the Diwali Festival fell on October 23 this 2014. This is like New Year’s Eve across India where a festival of lights, fireworks and gifts of sweets is celebrated nationwide. It is a 5 day festival where homes and buildings are festooned with lights and people get busy days or weeks before, cleaning their premises and hanging those lights. People also buy new clothes to wear and the nightsky get all lit up by fireworks, much like welcoming the new year.

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Diwali comes from the Sanskrit word deepavali which means “row of lights”. It is celebrated by Hindus, Sikhs and Jains alike in the tradition of welcoming home Rama and Sita based on the Sanskrit epic Ramayana (Hindu), or the release and homecoming of Guru Hargobind (who was imprisoned by a Mughal emperor) in the Sikh tradition. Among Jains, Diwali celebrates the attainment of enlightenment of Lord Mahavira who laid down the tenets of the Jain religion as practiced today.

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However it is celebrated and regardless of faith, the festival is marked by fireworks, gifts of dry fruits or sweets, acts of charity, lighting of oil lamps and prayers to deities. Here, the celebration of good over evil, light over darkness, and knowledge over ignorance assume universal appeal. We were lucky to celebrate this lights festival with locals in Jaipur’s Diggi Palace.

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It was a perfect excuse for us to buy and don our sarees. What a chore to choose from all those lovely, vibrant colors! And what an even bigger chore to wear them. I did mine in a jiffy but felt uncomfortable the entire night, worrying I’d leave so many yards of gossamer fabric like a heap on the floor. It took us too long — along with the picture-taking — to leave our hotel for the dinner-show cum fireworks display in Diggi Palace. We caught the last few numbers of the cultural performance while enjoying dinner under the night sky.

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Today, many cities elsewhere in the world observe Diwali Festival. Diwali decorations adorn homes and buildings especially in areas where there are Hindu, Sikh and Jain communities. We were only too happy we celebrated it while we were in Jaipur.

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Slept after a leisurely walk around the pond and the pool from where the illuminated City Palace — now part Museum, part Hotel — stands in view across silvery Lake Pichola. After a gruelling bus ride from Johdpur through Raknapur to more quiet, cleaner Udaipur, I felt soooo rewarded with a most comfortable sleep. Can’t even recall if I managed to switch off the TV, but I do remember staring blankly from the room window and waking up to the same majestic view this early morning.

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The birds woke me up as they chorused around the Lily Pond made even more famous in the 1983 James Bond film “Octopussy”. Too late for yoga lessons now as I went in search of my new friends. I can do with some stretching and more relaxation but it can wait till tomorrow morn. The Octopussy pond with all the chirping birds beckons and I promptly obliged.

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Praveen and Lekha of Taj Lake Palace Hotel are my new friends. You know you get good service when you sit under one of those colorful umbrella tents by the pond and someone quietly serves you your double espresso without being told. You linger longer without going in to check the breakfast buffet and you’re presented with a bread basket, jams and marmalade. A menu was left on my table, where I easily picked Eggs Benedict to start my day. No one pushed me to get more from the sumptuous breakfast buffet. Praveen and Lekha knew I was savoring the moment. My friends either still asleep or stretching on the rooftop terrace while catching the morning breeze. Me? I enjoyed the solitude. Praveen and Lekha, good early morn companions, should there be any need for human interaction.

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By the 2nd morning, I was ready for yoga lessons and a full breakfast after. Someone has already claimed my fav prized spot by the pond but I found a choice seat inside with a full view of the lake and this long boat in vibrant red nearly framed by the arched window. Post-yoga, I was famished. Couldn’t decide between an Indian brekkie or Continental fare, so I had both. Poori, that deep-fried unleavened bread, all crispy and golden, and all those excellent dips compete with my fav cheeses and cold cuts. Happiness. Gluttony wins!

Poori!

Poori!

Fresh Almonds for Brekkie! lavash and some cold cuts and cheese.

Fresh Almonds for Brekkie! lavash and some cold cuts and cheese.

My only regret here in Taj Lake Palace was dining in the same dining outlet for breakfast and dinner. There is this posh Indian Restaurant within the hotel that I should have tried. Plus I should have ordered a bottle of wine (rather than my beer) till I’m so drunk I’d crawl back to my hotel room via this long corridor mindful I don’t stray and fall into the pond. Pipe dreams!

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Lovely morns at The Taj.

Lovely morns at The Taj.


I love to read, write and listen. A good story is never wasted on me. But sometimes, I am simply overwhelmed by the truth. That’s when incredulous me sneaks in. And it happened a lot in India. 

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Or perhaps the many truths about the Indian way of life compel me to overthink and digest each and every morsel of truth at times so incongruous with modern times and practices. Like I can’t help feeling pity for the poor Indian widows left at the mercy of parents and inlaws, at times reduced to praying at the temple for a measly sum of 7 rupees. Or dealing with 20,000 rats in a Rat Temple (we didn’t go there, but shrieked just the same at this trivia). Twenty thousand! Must be some maternity hospital for busy, pregnant mice. Our guide said that when one dies in the village, a new mouse is born. Really. Another story goes that a sickly child fully recovered soon after drinking milk from the same milk plate fed to the temple rats. Incredible!

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And how about those burning bodies sent afloat in the Ganges River where many faithful bathe themselves and more? Was the tradition an offshoot of this beautiful lady (Ganga) who threw all her 7 babies (believed to be demons) into the same waters? So many tales. So many traditions. Cultural practices preserved through many generations.

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In a country where eunuchs are commissioned to bless houses, Incredulous Me gaped in misbelief upon learning that some men actually undergo surgery to be a eunuch. Eunuchs NOT by birth, but via surgery? How could anyone even consider chopping off that part of the body, pray tell? Why would someone wish to acquire such unfortunate deformity? Do these eunuchs truly absorb all negative vibes like a magnet for ills and misfortunes? (The idea is for them eunuchs to rid or bless the house free of bad luck)

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Then there’s the Jains. Followers of Jainism believe every living thing has a divine soul. They don’t venture out of the house come nighttime for fear they’d step on a bug or any living thing. When we reached Raknapur’s Jain Temple — marvelous marble temple where no 2 pillars are the same — we had to leave all leather stuff because they come from cattle or some other animal.

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My, so many stories. I’d add more here as I remember more. Meanwhile, let me review my notes on KAMASUTRA. KAMA = love. SUTRA = tied together. Kamasutra = 84 ways to express love. And they say it’s NOT all about SEX. Dim lights. Love sounds. Longer kisses. Think EmperorAkbar with his more than 300 wives. AHEM.

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I feel useless with my cam. No photo does justice to the vision in front of me. Incredible India, indeed. The monarchs of the olden days then had it real good. The fortresses, palaces, temples as well as the erotic imagery expressed in some architectural bits, friezes, and at times, columns all point to a royal’s life of leisure and pleasure.

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Pure hedonism? Who’s to say? Based on what I’m seeing now, I see EXTREMES. Dirt. Poverty. Even negligence? Juxtaposed against the remains of a palace’s grandeur. Incredible indeed. In India, there’s symmetry even in the prevalent chaos. I need to brace myself for the next few days’ surprises.

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From the time we waited for our small boat that ferried us to our palace hotel in the middle of Lake Pichola to the moment we rested our backs in beds inside rooms with windows facing the City Palace across the lake till the time we ungrudgingly woke up for early morning yoga sessions….. it was dreamland.

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Built in 1746 on a 4-acre rock foundation, it was initially called Jag Niwas. Its founder Jagat Singh intended this architectural masterpiece as a resort palace for his descendants. In 1961, this white-washed island palace on a manmade lake was converted into a luxury resort and expanded in 1971 to house 83 rooms. Undeniably among India’s best, it is now ranked among the world’s top 10 hotels.

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It’s hard to describe our Taj Lake Palace experience without sounding like it’s an exaggeration. I confess I was so looking forward to a luxurious experience…… and got it! Upon arrival, we were accompanied to our room and shown around in a hushed, low key, quiet elegance. On our way to our room on the 2nd floor, we could hear the birds flitting from one tree branch to another, reminding us to proceed with serenity. I knew then I would want to stay longer than the 2 nights we booked here!

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Watch this page. The Taj Lake Palace Hotel adventure continues. (Thanks Ernie Albano & Bien Anupol for a couple of photos on this spread)

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My second morning here. Another glorious day in Incredible India. Perfectly timed while I turned 60+1 in this Pink City of Jaipur where Maharajas of the Mewar Dynasty once lived. You may ask: Maharaja (Sanskrit)  or Maharana (Hindi)? Both mean “great king” or “high king”.  In my book, either refer to royalty. The Mewar Dynasty is one of the oldest dynasties in the world, having produced 75 rulers from 600 AD to 1947. Quite a feat, especially with the many forts and palaces built during their reign. But what history lessons for the young Indians. I couldn’t even remember a few monarchs’ names, so I can imagine how nerve-wracking it is for Indian youth to review their history lessons. 

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The Lake Palace. In JAIPUR. Lovely, isn’t it?

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The highlight of today’s trip is the ride on caparisoned elephants up to Amber Fort in Jaipur —- reminiscent of the Royal lifestyle of the Maharajas of Rajasthan.

Pink is the Rajput color of hospitality. Where I stand (rather, sit “rocking” on an elephant) now, I see Pink. Not really pink. It’s more like faded terracotta or my fav SALMON PINK hue splashed on Rajasthan’s lovely Jaipur with its many hill forts and series of palaces I could hardly commit their names to memory.  Also called Amer Fort some 11 kilometers from the city of Jaipur.  Its sheer location tells you this is a fortress palace with an encompassing view of the entire pink city.  Built in 1592, the hues range from honey-colored to salmon pink to terracotta orange. Not exactly pink, but NEAR PINK.

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A snake charmer hides his prized pet when we tried to take photos. A dollar for a photo, please. But we managed to sneak a few.

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It’s a rocky ride as the elephant sways left and right, and sometimes sprinkles some water (?) on its back, reaching its unsuspecting passengers.

The pink shade of the stone used exclusively in the walled city is a major attraction by itself. Same with the City Palace. Now throw in the beautiful filigree screens, the myriad honeycombed and latticed windows bathed in the special glow of the afternoon light, and you feel like walking into a period movie set. Bollywood, baby! I wonder what movies or TV series were filmed here.

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As soon as you get off, the interiors of the fortress palace compel you to wander around to view the city from all angles, and to check out the many pillars and latticed windows.

Pink takes on a variety of shades here depending on the time of day. The colorfully clad Rajasthanis complement the big picture of this truly fascinating place.  The only sore point is the unrelentless sun on this humid day. Lines were manageable, and a good time to sneak a few shots of the elephants queuing to climb up. 

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Another shot of the climb up the fortress palace on caparisoned elephants.

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Rajasthans, no. But I couldn’t resist posing with these sweet young things in our newly-purchased saree. Perfect for our Diwali Festival Night at the Diggi Palace.


POSTSCRIPT: Prepared this while preparing to attend the Diwali Festival in Jaipur’s Diggi Palace. Uploaded using iPhone cam shots on the coach ferrying us to the Fest. Please revisit this blog as I upload better photos from my and my friends’ cam 😄