By noontime, we trooped to Mestre Train Station for our ride to Florence. Made sure our trip has 0 stops as I doubt we have the energy to switch trains and drag our big bags. We were famished by the time we reached Firenze SMN Station. Our apartment is just off the Basilica Di Santa Maria Novella but it took all of our energy to walk with our luggage in tow. Having checked in, we fell in love with our apartment. With 6 nights to spend here, I’ve decided to stay in for a much-needed rest to recover my sapped energy, do the laundry (3 weeks load!) and send off the apos to make other arrangements like meet some friends, hit more art galleries, do shopping or whatever else in the next 2 days. The NEXT couple of days. Today, some introductions are in order.
Basilica of Santa Maria Novella The oldest pharmacy — now perfumery — in the world.
As soon as we loaded the first batch of laundry into the washing machine, we took off. Very near our apartment is the oldest running pharmacy in Florence, and in the world: the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. It all started in 1221 with Dominican friars developing a botanical garden of plants and herbs to produce healing ointments, balms and other medicines. Over time, the concoctions produced perfumes which counted royalties and prominent families among its clients. We sniffed around — and liked the scents but didn’t end up buying any. From this pharmacy, we walked a few blocks to reach Palazzo Strozzi where we promptly bought tickets to view Anselm Kiefer’s exhibit “Fallen Angels”. Very impressive. Not our first impression though, but his art grows on you as you spend more time with the artworks.
Kiefer’s “Fallen Angels” in Palazzo Strozzi
On our first day in Florence, we passed the Piazza Di Santa Maria Novella, visited the world’s oldest pharmacy, viewed an art exhibit, admired the magnificent Duomo, chanced upon the Odeon Theater cum Bookshop, and ended up in Mercato Centrale for dinner. We wanted to eat in the nearby trattorias but we were so hungry that we found the long lines frustrating. And so, we had our first bistecca florentina at the Mercato. Rarely that we dined without any conversation, but this is one moment. We devoured the Chianina beef like there’s no tomorrow. Gelato for a good finish and we had the best flavor ever — buontalenti, named after Bernardo Buontalenti, the Florentine inventor of Gelato.
Bistecca alla Florentina GelatoMercato Centrale
Having crossed 3 timezones, I looked forward to the next 2 days of doing nothing. Well, not exactly nothing. Like a doting abuela, I did the laundry and even cooked dinner. I also managed to book excursions for the next 2 days : one to Cinque Terre and another day trip to visit Siena, San Gimignano, Chianti and Monteriggioni. Plus a dinner booking at a nearby Trattoria il Giardino. Nieto y Nieta were on their own the first 2 whole days in Firenze, meeting their Abuela only for dinner either at the apartment (for a home cooked meal) or in a nearby trattoria. We did return to the Mercato Centrale to buy dinner to eat in the apartment. Even the young get exhausted as they preferred to stay in in the apartment that became our cozy home for a week. And they’re only on their second week while their Abuela has already clocked 6 weeks. 😜
More to write about Firenze. Wait for the next blog.
Good pasta, osso buco and coccoliSoft music on a chilly night. I’m on holiday 💤
Since retiring in 2001, I’ve visited a new place annually. Something new. Or rather, someplace new. Except for the pandemic year 2021, I managed to tick off a new destination. I even squeezed in a trip just before the March 2020 lockdown and 3 trips in 2022 when the world slowly eased out of the global tragedy. My ever growing bucket list now includes not just new spots but NEW EXPERIENCES too. Since I retired, my banner year was 2015 when I did my first ever Camino de Santiago de Compostela and visited such exotic spots like Myanmar, Phuket, Morocco, a Scandinavian cruise,Berlin and some areas in Spain under the tourist radar.
Since 2001. Except only 2021 because of the pandemic. Sahara Desert. 2015.
Were there any favorite sights? The answer is YES. I have since repeated many trips if only to repeat the same experiences. Dining around Spain and Japan goes right up there at the top of the list. Doing the pilgrimage walks is an experience my travel and camino buddies won’t mind doing again and again. France — specifically Provence and Paris evoke warm and nostalgic vibes. Always a brilliant idea I’d never ever grow tired of. African safari I fortunately tried twice, both ranking among my best animal adventures. Kenya, Tanzania, Zambia, South Africa. After the safaris, I vowed never to visit another zoo. Locally, my whale shark (butanding) experience I shared with my family. Just had to bring them to Sorsogon after my first time 2 months earlier. I also wish I can take them to Sri Lanka, Myanmar and Israel but the present peace situation won’t allow such. A pity.
Myanmar First Camino. 2015.
This 2024, I will visit Machu Picchu a second time. That Incan citadel is hard to shake off one’s memory. And while there, might as well head south on that long Chilean strip all the way down to Patagonia. This is that one major trip originally scheduled — later cancelled — in 2020 before the pandemic shook the world. Off to that South American adventure via Sydney where I plan to visit family. Towards the end of the year, another trip Down Under for some Kiwi cruise experience.
An African SafariMachu Picchu. Just once more this 2024.
Way too many in my list. First times and repeats. Earlier, I thought I should scratch off the repeats to compose a list of more visited spots. But why not? Those who gain “favorites” want to repeat, as in food adventures. After all, no 2 trips are ever the same. The experience varies according to season, company and moods. Emphasis on the moods. Visiting some places in the company of first-timers give a new dimension to the travel experience. The enthusiasm, the excitement and the “frenzy” can be quite infectious and that whiff of mirth — priceless!
Train Experience in Sri LankaWhale Shark Adventure off Sorsogon
Hopefully, I can tick off many more in my list. Aurora Borealis sightings? Got that listed, along with more countries in South America. I do want to do another camino, and wishing I can do so with younger members of my family. I am lucky to count many travel buddies but family trips are still the best. As for solo trips, my confidence is still there but I know such will burden my family with anxieties. So maybe I can “adjust” that by flying solo but joining an organized tour somewhere. Anything for an adventure. As they say, I don’t need therapy. Just needed to travel. 😘
BhutanThat trip when my buddies flew home and I opted to stay around solo and extend my stay.
This 2023 is a year marked by so many milestones. In a couple more months, we’d prep to welcome a new year and I just can’t wait to give my yearend update! I know, I’m 2 months early but there is just so much to tell. Or write about. Early on, the year started with health travails within the family. Throughout the year, we’ve learned to manage the heartbreaks and inconveniences. To some extent, we even managed to ignore the problems and carried on celebrating life. At this stage, we felt we just can’t skip nor miss, or worse, waste the opportunities. Life will always have its ups and downs. The challenge lies in how we can stay happy. And hopeful.
Half Full or Half Empty? To see or not to see? Dead of Winter in Early January in Japan
Started the year with a winter trip to Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. A visiting niece has long wanted and has never been to Japan so I obliged. After all, Japan is always a good idea. Yeah, I was in this land of the sun just last November 2022 and it hasn’t been 2 months yet! And a few months later around spring, I’d find myself back again in the Kansai region with my 2 other nieces. I can’t believe I made 3 trips to Japan in a span of 5 months. Not that I’m complaining. I love Japan.
Trio in Kansai for SakuraA 3-week trip to Europe
We planned our trip to Europe in between trips to the hospital’s emergency room. One of us got her visa a day before departure. 😩 We were scheduled to arrive late in Amsterdam without a hotel room on our first night. Managed to book a room only from the airport’s departure lounge. All’s well. And the trip turned out to be truly unforgettable with a few mishaps here and there. I traveled with my 2 grandchildren from Amsterdam to Brussels to Brugges to Provence to Paris. The train connections we arranged as we went along.
Up North in Sapa, VietnamAn unplanned trip to Phuket, Thailand
The trip to northwestern Vietnam was a welcome break amidst all the stress from life’s uncertainties. Never mind that it took 6 hours going from Hanoi to Sapa. If only for the clouds rolling through the mountains carved by rice field terraces, as well as the coffee scene, this trip to Northern Vietnam is worth it. And the impromptu meet-ups in Phuket, Thailand with our OZ branch of the family turned out to be the perfect stress-buster. As they say, when life hands you lemons, make lemonade! Such a lovely time we had basking under the sun and digging our toes in the sand. The holiday resort we stayed in was perfect for us. The resort activities kept us entertained and there was plenty of time to catch up with one another too.
The Grand Homecoming of MC ’73Reunion
The year 2023 likewise marked the golden jubilee for my college batch. More than 5 decades of friendship. We did well with a yearbook, a beach weekend, trip to a pottery workshop, many luncheons and cocktails, and a lovely video and collage of all our homecoming events. What a blessing to experience all these — reminiscing our teenage years in college and delighting in how we still manage to enjoy each other’s company as we rolled into our 70’s. With some now living abroad, we have missed each other far too long. But it never took that long to pick up where we left off. An old joke persists. An old story repeated countless times.
Degustacion Treat at MetizBirthday Lunch at Beso Beso
And the golden jubilarian turning septuagenarian? It all happened in 2023. What a milestone! In our batch, I was the youngest. The last to turn 70. To my elves, I’m ancient. The same elves who treated me to a degustacion in Metiz Restaurant. Not wanting to go home yet after dinner, we lingered at our favorite hotel lobby just chatting till they closed shop. On the very day I turned 70, we had lunch in Beso Beso which translates to “kisses”. A lovely time for the family as we then proceeded to hear Sunday Mass after lunch and indulged in some shopping later, before another family dinner at Made Nice. It was a Sunday, a birthday truly made nice as we stayed together a good part of that day. Quite rare now as everyone gets busy with new jobs, a career, some projects. An opportunity not to be missed. Nor wasted. Memories. Life is a celebration.
I’m home now. The fond memories of a recent trip still make me smile with gratitude. Happy Hours 24/7 for 3 weeks with my Nieto and Nieta. Obviously I am not yet done writing and posting (on FB and IG) about the trip, especially the last leg in Provence and in Paris. But that is not to say we didn’t enjoy Amsterdam, Brussels and Bruges. Each of the cities visited holds fond memories of the sights and experiences. Forever etched in our memories that even a croissant can easily evoke happy thoughts!
Our first croissant in Joordan, Amsterdam.
Those 3 weeks taught these young adults how to craft their travel itinerary, book walking tours, shop for online museum admissions, register for concerts and cluster/sequence our travel activities. I know this entailed some research including where to find accommodations and timing our train schedules. But way over this trip planning, the young adults learned how to use a laundromat, hand wash some items, press clothes and dealing with hotel front desks for a few demands. Google map has made navigating the areas a cinch, and Uber for transport and food deliveries made life much easier.
A Laundromat Experience
We didn’t scrimp on our meals. Enjoyed our Dutch, Belgian, Provençal and French meals. Even our beers! We spent on food whatever we saved on laundry expenses. I refused to pay €10 for each pair of pants that needed washing. The laundromat was our best friend, at only €6 for wash and €2 for a quick spin/drying per batch. In Provence, we used the hotel’s laundry services for only €15 each machine. Except in Amsterdam and Bruges, we skipped the €18 breakfasts and instead bought our breakfasts off supermarkets (fruits, salads and wraps) and boulangeries. Those fresh pears, peaches, strawberries and white asparagus gave me “highs” and started off my days. Nieto and Nieta ate more veggies (salads) too on this trip. Swell 💕
A new Instagram account (Jolli.belly) chronicled our dining adventures.
We had a good run. We missed out on a few spots and activities for lack of time or because we didn’t want to exhaust ourselves crazy (we’re on holiday!) but we enjoyed good weather even if the temps rose in Provence. We only encountered 2 “mishaps” but nothing that can’t be remedied. We just ended up feeling very annoyed but a good meal quickly took care of that. There were many pleasant surprises and we are very thankful for all these blessings. We prayed before stepping out of our hotel or apartments and expressed our gratitude every so often. In my heart, I know a good habit was reinforced and our faiths were fortified. “Thank You, Lord”was and is our mantra. 🙏
Who grows tired of Paris? There’s always something else to discover, to explore, to enjoy in this city. I think it’s my 7th time around Paris but this is my 1st time stepping into Eglise Saint Sulpice. It’s the 2nd largest church in Paris next to the Notre Dame Cathedral, but I suspect it became more popular because of the Da Vinci Code, a bestseller by Dan Brown turned into a movie topbilled by Tom Hanks. You remember the book? Or the blockbuster movie? I’m not sure if they still run “Da Vinci Code” tours 20 years after, but it sure was a popular thing to do then. And quite naturally, the tours started with a visit here, notwithstanding that the film company was never allowed to film here. The movie’s starting scene was actually shot in a Hollywood studio. All because Dan Brown sparked controversy with his claims that the Church insists aren’t founded on history and the bible truth.
Eglise Saint Sulpice in the Latin QuarterOn our way to Luxembourg Gardens, we stopped here for lunch. Our last lunch in Paris and on this trip. 🥲
Church visit done; lunch at Cafe Tournon. This being our last full day in Paris, we decided on a proper French lunch. I think we chose well and got lucky with a very accommodating crew. We likewise decided to separate so the young adults can meet up with friends while grandma goes to her favorite chapel. That means the hip Cafe Kitsune for the young ones and the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal at Rue du Bac for Mamu.
Lunch at Cafe TournonMeet-ups with Childhood Friends
Every time I visit Paris, I always try to come here. But it was closed when I got there and would reopen at 2:30 pm yet. There was a good hour to waste. I did remember there was a nearby Bon Marché Store with a marvellous gourmet food section. Next block; just across the street. I remember some random food finds here which I brought home for friends and family. Like always, good food excites me as it did while I navigated around the shelves and food sections in Bon Marche’s gourmet area. Some pâté here, fresh strawberries and peaches there, big, fat white asparagus about to go off season, some maché and rocket for my salad, and an assortment of bread and pastries. A happy place! Before I knew it, it was past 2:30 pmso I promptly paid and headed back to the chapel. Before long, I was at the metro station and got off at Liege near Rue du Moscou. Looked around the apartment, packed my bags for next day’s departure, prepared some salad and ate while staring out the window. I can bring these memories home so I want to remember them well. La vie est belle!
Chapel of Miraculous Medal at Rue du BacWe are only 3 but nieto deserves 2 servings. View from our Apartment Window
In our last few days in Paris, we hit 2 more museums. First off, Musée de l’Orangerie in the Jardin des Tuileries.Housed in an iconic edifice on the western section of the Tuileries garden, this was our chance to view Monet’s famous eight Water Lilies mural. Monet painted water lilies for well over 30 years till his death at 86. His lily pond in Giverny where he lived provided much inspiration resulting in over 300 artworks. Some in large format like the egg-shaped hall where a colossal mural greets you. For the first time since we landed in Europe, I wanted to shh shhh the crowds milling around the murals. It would have been nice to sit in the center of that hall to appreciate these huge works of Monet. Alas, it was noisy, and too crowded.
The 8 panels were Monet’s gift to the State, to be displayed based on his very specific conditions and design. Done just a few years before his death, but finally displayed only after he passed on. These panels are significant considering that Monet suffered from failing vision years before he died, so much so that he even had to label the colors of his paint tubes. He also painted other subjects, but still mostly from his gardens in Giverny. After all, the artist indulged in gardening as a favorite pastime and he loved painting outdoors.
By the time we moved to Musée d’Orsay, we were growing tired and frankly, overwhelmed. Too much stimulation from the first museum visit, the walks under the sun, crossing the Seine and struggling with the heat. It didn’t help that we were made to line up outside without shade even though our ticket specified a time for the visit. When we got in, we passed most everyone and decided to start on the upper floors first. Besides, the Van Gogh pieces were there.
Next, we went in search of Rodin. I earlier intended to bring them to Musée Rodin but there wasn’t enough time. Wow, Musée d’ Orsay is really huge. Some actually prefer it to the Louvre and I don’t blame them. I do like Orsay too especially since it has a really nice cafe inside and the ex-train station building is kind of a romantic setting for this museum. Not to forget, it also has a lot of nooks and quiet corners with stone benches where one can sit it out and rest! We called it a day after 2 hours. Guess we didn’t do justice to these museum visits. But our energy levels are really low now, having been “on the go” the last 3 weeks. I haven’t really counted but I suspect we’ve done at least 15 museums on this trip. The major art galleries should be around 7 or 8. Wow. We need to sit it out in the park now or head back to our apartment for a quick pre-sleep sleep. Or maybe we should hit the bar to celebrate 🥂 🤣
The Cafe inside the museum. Look at that huge clock, often a feature of train terminals.
My first time in Montmartre was unplanned. I was in a conference in London in 2003 and a friend invited me to stay with her while exhausting the remaining lease on her daughter’s flat in Paris. I said yes, and so did another friend who trained in from Zurich. The 3 of us spent dinner nights between Montmartre and Saint Germain des Pres and had an immensely wonderful time. In 2017, I brought my nieta here but only for a night. It was a chilly night so the artists left the square in Place Du Tertre earlier. The “painters’ neighborhood” was without painters that night it threatened to snow. So here we are, back again, with all the sunshine we need on this spring-soon transforming into summer Paris day.
Last time we had a meal in La Bonne Franquette. This time at Le Consulat. Coffee and Dessert at La Maison Rose or the Pink House in Montmartre.The “painters’ neighborhood” in Place Du Tertre.
Montmartre has many cafes and bistros. If you’ve been watching Amelie and Emily in Paris, the winding streets and hilly paths here would seem familiar to you. Le Consulat and La Bonne Franquette are both hangouts of many artists centuries ago, like Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Picasso, to name a few. Some have even set up studios here. And actually lived here, like Van Gogh and Dalí. In one corner, you’d find Espace Dalíwhere you’d find 300 of his works from a private collection of Beniamino Levi. Levi was one of Salvador Dali’s art collectors and art dealers.He intended to make popular then Dali’s sculptures and engravings aside from his paintings. This gallery is worth a visit if you’re a Dalí fan.
Espace Dali in Montmartre From Le Consulat where we had lunch, it was a short walk to the Pink House in one direction and the Espace Dali in the opposite direction.
So next time you visit SACRE COEUR Basilica, take a few more steps towards Place Du Tertre (if you’re a Filipino, it’s easy to remember this place that bears a name that sounds like one ex-Prez) to find centuries-old bistros frequented by many artists, poets and novelists. The coffee scene in the Saint Germain des Pres may be great but Montmartre has a number of good cafes too. And for tourists, the souvenir shops here may be more reasonably-priced, methinks.
Montmartre teeming with locals and tourists! Off Abbesses Metro Station. (I prefer getting off at Anvers)
We could have covered more in Provençe in 10 days. In 2003 and 2004, I managed to include Le Baux, Aix-en-Provence and Marseilles. All very beautiful destinations. The kids wanted to go to Nice and Cannes (French Riviera) too but we decided to just cover Luberon and the Van Gogh trails. No regrets. The rest can wait for another trip. But there were highlights to this Provençal trip. Before we left the area for the City of Lights (Paris), we talked about what thrilled, surprised and pleased them most. Guess what — they loved all the food, ice cream/sorbet and even the grocery purchases in Provence. We even made sure my Instagram account (jolli.belly) chronicled all our food and snacking adventures!
Le Cheval Blanc in front of the Arenes de Nimes. La Dolcezza (Nimes) is one of our 2 fav gelaterias. Restaurante Mercadante in Nimes
Since we stayed longer in Avignon, we had more meals here. And more ice cream / sorbet where Regal Glacé with its 74 flavours won hands down. Twice a day we’d troop to this gelateria after lunch at any of the bistrot along Hotel de Ville (City Hall) area. First off, we tried La Grande Brasserie Le Cintra nearer the walls. Salad, entrecôte and pasta composed our first lunch in this walled city. The next day, we hopped on a train to Tarascon and found a tiny, family-run cafe/bistrot and enjoyed the best chicken burger, dorade and a big chunk of steak. On our way back to the train station, we stopped by an oyster stall — happiness in a shell!
La Grande Brasserie Le CintraLe Bistrot des Anges de Tarascon
Around the Hotel de Ville area, there’s a row of restaurants just past the carousel. We tried the Restaurant Le Venaissin (the paella and Magret de canard were 👍), La Civette Avignon (try the Boeuf Charolais — that French breed of cattle), and Le Citron Vert (I should have tried their Moules Frites than the very dry and grilled entrecôte and sauce-smothered dorade). “Jolli.belly” on Instagram has snapshots of the food we ordered. Had to load/post them photos right away lest we forget where we ate. Naturally, we failed to do this each time and yes, promptly forgot the Resto name.
Paella and Magret de Canard at Le VenaissinSteak Charolais, risotto and fillet mignon at La Civette AvignonWhat we stuffed into our mouths in Provence! (Check out jolli.belly on Instagram)
The trips to Carrefour and the desserts at Regal Glacé or that other gelateria in front of Palais de Papes have become rituals during our stay. So with “a proper lunch” in a brasserie or Bistrot, and a salad and wrap/ sandwich off the Carrefour shelves for dinner in our hotel room. Trips to the Boulangerie or Patisserie for our croissants and pain au chocolat and ahem, let’s not forget the occasional crème brulee. On a Saturday Market Day in Avignon, we had a home cooked lunch of pasta and pizza at Mama Rossa who gladly wrapped our leftovers to take back to our hotel. The portions were so generous that I had them for dinner and breakfast the next day!
Mama Rossa’s Pizza at the Saturday Market in Avignon That bowl of Bolognese was hardly touched and saw its way back to our hotel room for an eat-in dinner. Soft-serve, gelato or sorbet in a cup or cone, granitas to cool off!
So, yeah. Food is always a big part of our travels. And we never hesitate to repeat or head back to a fav restaurant and order the same stuff. My 2 young travel buddies love their meat while grandma prefers seafood. They eventually got hooked on salads (for dinners) which are quite filling — think salad nicoise and some other Mediterranean salad with pasta shells and big chunks of grilled chicken, or with couscous or quinoa. Somehow, we managed a “balanced diet” with delightful purchases of fresh white asparagus, peaches, strawberries, etc. as in-between snacks. 😊 Eases the guilt off the sugar spikes from the ice cream and crème brûlée.
It was the last stop for the day. My recollection of my 2003 visit here was driving through Roman and Greek ruins which are the iconic landmarks of this ancient town. Think Julius Caesar. But we didn’t come here for these archaeological sites. Nor did we visit because it’s the birthplace of Nostradamus. We came for Van Gogh. That genius of a man had himself admitted in Saint-Paul de Mausole’s psychiatric institution as he sensed his mental health deteriorating despite the hospital treatment he was getting in Arles. Arles and Saint-Rémy-de-Provenceare nearby towns not too far from Avignon and Vincent stayed in the monastery cum psychiatric clinic here for a good one year.
The Greek and Roman ruins of St. Rémy de Provence. This is the image in my mind from my 2003 visit. Saint Paul de Mausole along Van Gogh Avenue
While he only stayed a year here, his 150 or so paintings are among the popular pieces spread and displayed in prominent museums all over the art world. His lonely and desolate rooms were painted on canvas — the bed, the chair, the window, the landscapes and blooms viewed from the window. Since he stayed a year, his works captured the seasonal changes including the mistral as well as the dry spells brought in by the Provençal summers. The farms, the peasants, the flowers and trees — all these were reflected on the 150 inspired works of art. Walking around Van Gogh Avenue, there would be repros of Vincent’s artworksagainst a backdrop of the actual scenes. One can say Van Gogh simply never stopped painting. Whether art was his therapy or not, it certainly occupied his mind 24/7.
The monastery garden and courtyard provide enough inspiration. Very beautifully laid out. Amidst arcades, fountainsand beds of flowers, one feels compelled to sit for a few moments and space out. The gardens behind the monastery can be viewed from Van Gogh’s room and studio, so it is easy to imagine how the blooms change with the seasons. More so how the landscapes changed as viewed day or night. A pity we were a couple of weeks early till the lavenders fully bloom. That must be a pretty sight. The flowers were just starting to sprout when we visited but we can already sense a faint smell of the soothing buds.
The monastery courtyard. In summer, this field is littered with lavenders!
Our driver guide gave us enough time to linger. We made a second pass of the artist’s quarters and the back gardens before settling down in the courtyard. Seeing my nieta open her sketchbook and watercolours, I gingerly turned back towards the museum shop. Heaved a sigh of relief that the weather cooperated so we can enjoy the sunlight rather than the forecast of showers and gray skies. While loitering around gardens, I spotted a young man with an easel seemingly looking for a quiet corner. His search ended with a good spot amidst the arcaded passageways between columns but a perfect view of the courtyard bathed in sunlight. Bless these artists for cheering us up with their creations!
A dream come true for Nieta y Nieto. For their abuela too. Prepped ourselves good with an afternoon visit of Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, read up on countless books and articles on this genius, and checked out his many artworks both popular and not so. There were many of the latter too. After all, Van Gogh was such a prolific painter (over 2,000! — nearly half of which painted in Provence in his short life’s last 2 years) that countless works didn’t earn as much distinction as those made into posters, postcards and other merch. Being big fans of Vincent, we made sure we didn’t miss the Van Gogh Tour as a day trip from our Provençal base in Avignon. The driver guide we had for this adventure was named after the artist. His namesake, another Vincent. He wasn’t the best driver and the 3 of us had vertigo spells as Vincent weaved through the traffic and hardly stepped on the brakes. We leaned left, right, forward just like Van Gogh’s sunflowers caught in a mistral. But he was a good guide, and obviously loves the place of his birth, Provence. In Arles, he brought us first to the garden park where Van Gogh painted many landscapes. The “lighting” and bright colors he was searching for, he found in the south of France. The trees have grown since over a century ago, and the layout must have changed. But the sheer thought that we are treading on the same soil and may have stood on the same spot as the great artist is mind-blowing. The apos were thrilled!
Espace Van Gogh
A marker stands by the park’s frontage. A loving dedication to a most venerated visitor-resident who moved from Paris to this Provençal town. He may have been “chasing the softer light” in Provence but I suspect what he found as well was something to “quiet” his soul and pacify his troubled mind. Away from the city chaos, Vincent painted away madly in Arles, as he did in St. Remy de Provence while in asylum and finally in his last residence in Auvers-sur-Oise. The exhibit we viewed — “Final Moments in Auvers” — at the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam prepared viewers to the artist’s mind’s turmoil as he moved from Arles to St. Remy to Auvers. In today’s world, science may have tagged him as bipolar or suffering from ADHD. Who knows? What’s known for sure is that he painted a lot in a very short period of his artistic life. Darn, he painted madly in his short life. Dead at 37, he left behind many sketches, etchings, paintings of landscapes, nature, still lifes, peasants, and quite a pile of self-portraits. In all this, he proclaimed: “Art is to console those who are broken by life.” Poignant message. Pierces the soul.
Street Scene in Arles? A Roman Arena in Arles
Who can say what he found in Arles while he lived there? Stayed 15 months, created over 300 masterpieces. Just like Picasso, Arles ignited his passion and provided him innumerable objects of inspiration. He loved painting nature, and painted it in bold, dramatic hues. He may have exaggerated the “force” of the howling wind from the Mediterranean, brightened up several notches the starlights and the moon and the sun, deepened the blue hues of the sky. My apologies — I’m rambling. No art expert here. Just a regular fan’s musings. Indulge me. 😊
Espace Van Gogh
For sure, he found time to indulge himself. The Cafe de Van Gogh is marked as a tourist trap but how can you dismiss nor ignore this place? He painted Cafe Terrace at Night with this inspiration. The starry night background started a series and it is reported that Van Gogh has developed a stargazing habit which may have been prompted by some religious attachment. He proceeded to paint more star-filled skies after this, the most epic of which is “Starry Night”. At the same time, his stay in Arles was marked by an ear-slicing incident that brought him to a hospital just before Christmas. He had a serious altercation with Gauguin who lived with him in Arles briefly in a two-storey yellow house immortalised in a painting. Sadly, this incident marked the start of the artist’s deteriorating mental health. It won’t be long after this hospital stint that Vincent volunteered to be admitted in an asylum in St. Remy de Provence. Amidst all this turmoil, he created many works of art. The hospital courtyard is now called “Espace Van Gogh” and is included in every typical Van Gogh Tour around Arles.
“Great things are not done by impulse, but by a series of small things brought together.” — Van Gogh
lifeisacelebration 