NIMES. Pronounced NIM. As in denim. And yes, denim originated here. Denim means “from Nimes” in French. The sturdy fabric as we know today was “accidentally” manufactured here in the 17th century while trying to make “serge de Nimes”, a heavy-duty fabric. So you see, this pair of modern jeans really has a more European history attached to it. But denims aside, Nimes truly has an interesting story to tell.
The last time I was here was in 2003. As we were just driving around Provence, I only had time to check out the amphitheater and Maison Caree. This time, we visited Tour Magne which involved an uphill climb that proved to be a longer stretch because some construction work blocked the street towards the Roman ruins. Refreshed by lunch at Mercadante (best carbonara and fish with risotto) and some ice cream and sorbet from La Dolcezza, we also visited and sat around the Jardin de La Fontaine near the Temple of Diana. Nimes isn’t big, very walkable, but packed with so much history! Visitors to Provence should mark Nimes as a worthy detour.
Amazing how many of Nimes’ Roman ruins are so excellently preserved. Since first century, Nimes became like a “prototype” of Roman colonisation in Gaul. Visiting it now, you get a sense of how rich this town was during Roman times. The huge and well- preserved Arenes de Nimes seats 24,000 now used for concerts, the occasional bullfights and other events. The best preserved Roman temple is also in Nimes. Maison Caree (French for “square house”) was built in 4-7 AD, dedicated to the grandsons of Emperor Augustus Caesar, both of whom died young. Designed with 6 Corinthian columns, it inspired the Eglise de La Madeleine in Paris, another iconic landmark. The temple stands proudly in the town Center. As for the Tour Magne, this was used as a watchtower and was actually part of the Roman city wall in ancient times. One can only imagine how Nîmes looked then as a walled city.
We had some of our best meals and desserts here too. The “modern” part of this historic town gives off L.A. vibes. Even in the Jardin de La Fontaine near the Temple of Diana where we spent an hour or so idling time away, we met many locals with their unleashed dogs. Some furry friends took the chance to jump in and enjoy the pool while the swans looked menacingly. I was actually expecting a “fight” for territory but none happened. I guess everyone’s good and calm here. C’est La vie!
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