Tag Archive: Austria



August 22 Sunday

After missing out on the Cosmos’ Russian River Cruise to join the Placinos (which got fully booked one year prior to departure) , change in Trafalgar bookings for lack of time to secure all the visas, and the ordeal relating to the issuance of the Russian visas, Emy and I are finally ready for our holiday. Emy was running late but arrived at the airport with time to spare for a heavy snack of gyoza and chicken sotanghon. Our first wise decision……we were served dinner at 9pm yet on our Air France 161 flight for Paris. All of 16 hours with hardly a wink, plus another 1 ½ hr flight from Paris to Zurich. Wide awake on the plane, we hardly resisted all the meals served. We arrived in Zurich with a bloated stomach or distended intestines or both, and facial skin so dehydrated it is crying out for moisturizer. 

August 23 Monday

Only my good friend Lylah looked good among us 3 girls on this morning’s 8:50 am arrival in Zurich. What a relief that Lylah found a parking slot very near the arrival gate! We may just have one big suitcase each, but Emy and I hardly have the energy to load our luggage into Lylah’s trunk. It took a real full breakfast of croissants and cold cuts in Lylah and Fredy’s Fraunfeld house some half hour away to raise our energy levels back to normal.

With Lylah in Santis, Schwagalps
With Lylah in Santis, Schwagalps

With Lylah in Santis, Schwagalps


Today being a sunny day and a cloudy forecast for the next 3 days, Lylah decided to drive Emy and I straight up to the mountains . We somehow got lost on our way, what with all the chatting while driving in between munching Lindt chocolates, but we finally managed to get to Schwagalps to catch our cable car ride from there to the mountaintop of Santis. (Fredy said he cannot manage to get lost even if he planned to…..some Swiss brand of humour here) We’re glad Lylah insisted on doing this trip today as our “introduction to Switzerland”….. the views from the mountaintop plus the cable car ride, was simply amazing. Before our eyes spread a whole panorama of snowcapped mountains with Lake Constance in the background. It was just so postcard-pretty. Of course, Emy can’t join Lylah and I up to the very top….. the altitude plus the howling wind didn’t help to calm her nerves……but we managed to take good photo shots with Emy literally hanging by my sleeve. From the top, we can scan some mountain climbers with unbelievable stamina and courage. And not all of them are young. Emy, Lylah and I can only look at each other with an exasperated “shame on us” look. At the foot of the hill, we took pictures in front of Berghotel Schwagalp and dropped in on this little cheese shop. 

On the way back to Frauenfeld, Lylah brought us to this quaint little town called Appenzel. It’s a very charming town with old wooden houses decorated with bright paintings just like what one would see on postcards. Lylah pointed out that this town of local farmers-artists are known for their naïve paintings, samples of which we found in many souvenir shops. We were even so lucky to find a band playing in one of the small country hotels there. The bandmembers wore traditional red jumpers (for lack of a better term), hats trimmed with flowers (Lylah claims they’re edelweiss) and dangling earrings (just on one side) with this cute little spoons. Oh yes, these men wore dangling  earrings! We also found this really old wooden house (built in the 16th century) near a small square from where we strolled to cross the town center. There were window shops with cow bells, embroidery, naïve paintings, etc alongside a bank ATM machine which I naturally didn’t ignore. Oh, the wonders of techno-banking! 

Stein Em Rheim
Stein Em Rheim

Home in Frauenfeld in time for dinner with the boys. We also met the house pet “Odin” whose meows get louder when he sees the mistress of the house. The ‘Welcome to Switzerland’ dinner of bratwurst, schublig, cervelat and many other sausages and cheeses I can’t name was just superb! Take that with generous helpings of artichoke salad littered with plump olives. With this kind of dinner, Emy and I knew it’s impossible to grow hungry in Frauenfeld. 

August 24 Tuesday

In true Lylah’s tradition, there is no wake up call. Without planning to, I woke up too early and took the chance to stroll around the Abendweg area. Ms. Moonlight wakes up just before noon…..and happily whips up a hearty omellette with parsley that go so well with the croissants earlier baked by Fredy. Emy and I have by this time learned where the sausages, tete des moines and nostrano salamis are stored, and shamelessly picked what we like . 

Today’s excursion included a trip to Schaffhausen just northwest of Fraunfeld. Here we saw the largest waterfall in Europe. They are impressive as they are noisy. Climbing up and down the stairs to get different views of the “Chutes du Rhin” (Rheinfall) again reminded us girls how physically unfit we were. Just a short car ride from Schaffhausen is the medieval town of Stein am Rhein. Here we found the frescoed, half-timbered centuries-old houses we have often read about in many travel books. We strolled around this quaint charming town that is simply so “European”. The old world charm just wows you. And while being wowed, Emy gets her first “lecture” on how to operate her borrowed digital camera. 

A waterfall and a medieval town…..the adventure doesn’t stop there. We crossed over to Germany over Lake Constance with our car joining us on that short ferry ride towards Meersburg/Bodensee. SwF15 one way and you get your car to cross the lake. By this time, Lylah thought we are now ready for a German seafood dinner and Meersburg is just the right place. A Filipina waited on us in Restaurant Zum Anker and helped us order a sumptuous dinner of egli (perch) and felchen (fera), both presumably fished out of Lake Constance. We each had a piece of the delicious egli smothered with almond slivers and shared the felchen cooked in a savoury sauce as well as the ramschnitzel served with spatzli, which are boiled pasta dumplings that don’t look like dumplings at all. More like pasta in broken sizes! We stuffed ourselves real good…..excellent dinner. 

August 25 Wednesday

Today we head for Germany again via several detours, passing St. Gallen, Lindau, Isny, towards Fussen to visit Hohenschwangau and Neuchsweinstein Castle built by Mad King Ludwig II of Bavaria. This fairy tale castle is always featured in travel books as the prototype of Sleeping Beauty’s Castle in Disneyland. Many times, I have planned to go to this castle in the middle of a forest (or so it looked in the pictures) but always missed out on the chance for this sidetrip. Finally, I’m doing this side trip! After 3 hours on the road

Hohenschwangau, Germany
Hohenschwangau, Germany

Hohenschwangau, Germany


and after a good snack of apple and white cheese struddle at Schlosshotel Lisl, we took this 15 minute uphill bus ride. We got off the bus on this fork which leads to Mary’s Bridge or the Castle. We took the road downhill towards the castle, joined the guided tour and sympathized with Mad King Ludwig II whose love and life story is simply heartbreaking. Story aside, this trip once again physically challenged us . We thought we’d drop from sheer exhaustion. The only break I got was when I asked this fellow to take my picture with Hohenschwangau Castle in the background. He did just that; except that my entire face dominated half of the picture frame. My nose is as big as the castle in the background 🤣

All that walking up and down made us decide to reward ourselves with yet another good dinner. Breakfast in Switzerland, lunch in Germany and dinner in Austria …. That’s how we planned it. It took sometime though to find a good eating place in Bregenz, Austria which borders Switzerland. Finally, we found Wienerwald where we were served goulash, wiener schnitzel and another dish (T…..rosti?) I can’t recall. 

Saas Fe
Saas Fe

So far, the Swiss and German dinners are better. We got home past midnight. 

August 26 Thursday

We didn’t wake up Lylah and let her sleep through the whole morning. After all, she was driving the whole day yesterday! After brunch, she took us shopping. No crazy adventures today, no long drives, just a simple shopping day for us. 

But not that simple. Dinner tonight is the best we’ve had in this whole trip. Though served only during winter, we had our raclette tonight!!!! The variety of cheese along with a bottle of good white wine, plus the assortment of pickles …….. wow, what a dinner. Melting cheese over boiled potatoes accompanied by pickled young corn, onions, gherkins, olives etc. is truly a Swiss adventure all its own. Marvelous dinner! Emy and I worried we won’t get up the following morning. 

August 27 Friday

Emy and I feel almost sad to leave our Frauenfeld home, a home that is never locked at night, where neighbors’ voices are hardly heard, where the only noises you’d hear would be the washing machine spinning or the coffee beans grinding. Or our loud 

Saas Fe, Valais
Saas Fe, Valais

Saas Fe, Valais

Filipino voices and laughter! Lylah and Fredy , plus the 2 boys, have become our family in Switzerland. 

Fredy and Lylah Rutschmann have been such fine hosts and Emy and I truly appreciate their kindness and hospitality. More than that, these two made sure we truly gained a very Swiss experience from the places we visited, to the friends we met, and finally to the food we ate! God bless the Rutschmanns!



We’ve long wanted to visit Slovenia so we drove from Vienna to Ljubljana with a Graz pit stop. Clean and green, plus it’s such a small country offering so much. Lake Bled comes to mind, but Piran stole our hearts. On a Food Trip, we included Trieste, Italy in our itinerary. Yes, that small strip of land off the Adriatic and the Italian border to Slovenia. As home to Illy Coffee, plus the prospect of seafood harvested off the Adriatic and cooked the Italian way, we couldn’t go wrong. Next, the van took us on a road trip visiting the small towns of the Istrian Peninsula. All of these destinations couldn’t have been better. By the time we left Istria and reached Zagreb, we were almost unfamiliar with big city vibes. And Plitvice? That was the highlight of my trip.

Just click on the following titles to the blog links .

From Vienna to Graz, Austria

Clean and Green Ljubljana

A Rainy Day in Lake Bled

Going Italian in Trieste

Driving Back to Slovenia’s Piran

Groznjan’s Art and Culture

More Truffles in Motovun

How Do You Say Rovinj?

Rijeka Off the Adriatic

Opatija’s Classy Vibe

Summery Day in Pula

Finally, Zagreb!

A Near-Miss in Plitvice

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Trip Length: 12 Days

Hotels:

Hotel Galeria

Hotel Coppe

Hotel Jadran

Hotel Dubrovnik

GRAZ In a Heartbeat


We touched down in Vienna around 8 in the morning and was promptly whisked away in a van towards Ljubljana. All of 5 hours drive for more than a dozen sleep-deprived people from the Tropics. Not wasting time, we planned this pit stop in Graz, just over 2 hours south of the Austrian capital. So what’s in Graz, you ask? As the capital of the Austrian province of Styria and 2nd largest next to Vienna, it has much to offer. You may even say it’s a disservice to spend only a few hours here, do lunch and to visit it “just because” it’s along the way towards our destination in Slovenia. For starters, it was the cultural capital of Europe once upon a time. Not too long ago, it was also hailed as a city of culinary delights. This last one has a special charm to our group of food adventurers.

It was, however, a very brief visit. Just enough time to do the City Square where a Food Market was in full swing. We had our fill of bratwurst, schnitzel, beer and other sausages here. Nothing fancy as we only had 3 hours to tour around. From the square, we walked towards the river to view Kuntshaus, Murinsel, and finally the Schlossberg. The latter gave us a 360 degree panoramic view of the city from the Clock Tower area.

The Schlossberg has a well-manicured garden at the top, and an open air cafe bar. What’s interesting about the Schlossberg is the way up and back. One can take the lift, funicular or climb up. Then exit via the same lift, the same staircase or SLIDE! We chose to take the lift but cheered those brave enough to slide down through a transparent cylinder that zigzags down. That 35 second slide ride can’t possibly convince me.

If you don’t have the nerve to try the slide, nor the time to cover all the attractions in Graz, then just enjoy the city view from the top. From the Square to this hilltop attraction, you’d find many interesting architectural landmarks. Enjoy!

Christmas Markets of Vienna


Let it snow 🎶 let it snow 🎵 let it snow 🎼 We didn’t bargain for a White (early) Christmas but we sure got it. Along with frozen fingers and backs stiff from the cold. I should have worn my boots but there’s no saying it won’t rain which means melted snow that could turn icy. So, back to my rubber shoes for better traction. Better safe than sorry. And for good measure, 4 layers on mah’ self! Too cold for my bones at minus 4 Celsius. I know, some of you would say it’s nothing, but do remember we’re babes from the Tropics 🙄

Rathausplatz by Gizelle Jose

Rathausplatz. 📸 Gizelle José

Rathausplatz

Of the 4 Christmas Markets we have visited, I like the Christmas Market in Rathausplatz the best. Having said that, it attracts the most tourists and the crowd even goes thicker after sundown at 4pm. Yes, Virginia. Sunset at 4pm. It turns magical after dusk with the majestic town hall building as backdrop in all its illumination. The market stalls selling lanterns, toys, Christmas balls and charms look even lovelier as one sips mulled wine or punch while watching all that revelry. In front of the Town Hall is the ice skating lane that weaves around a giant Christmas Tree and another tree adorned with red heart-shaped bulbs. So pretty especially at night!

Rathausplatz 📸 Gizelle José

Rathausplatz. 📸 Gizelle José

The Christmas Markets seem to sell identical items (some say Made from China ⁉️), including food. But I noticed the lone Italian booth in Stephanplatz selling salume, prosciutto, pecorino and parmeggiano reggiano. We also found a stall selling raclette with pane from Rathausplatz which we didn’t find in the other markets. Gluhwein we found almost everywhere. And many, many candied nuts and fruits, muffins, as well as souvenir items. Hand mittens, winter coats, wraps and mufflers in Christmas-sy designs? Trinkets? They’ve got them!

Stephansplatz

Stephansplatz

Stephansplatz

A giant Christmas Tree, chestnuts roasting, the aroma of spiced mulled wine and punch wafting in the air. But Karlsplatz seems to cater more to children. I spotted a Ferris wheel from a distance and there’s also a Merry-go-round spinning on the strength of a lone man pedalling a bike. It isn’t too big but the size of this Christmas Market is manageable for young parents bringing in their kids. I am amused that the gluhwein stalls stand right beside the merry-go-round. I saw many parents enjoying their warm, spiced vino 🍷 there while watching their kids spinning around.

Karlsplatz

Karlsplatz

There are many more but we only managed 4 Markets. The last one, but certainly not the least, is the one in Schönbrunn. The Parade Ground where the market booths are are completely blanketed in snow. So pretty especially with the Palace in its imperial yellow hue dominating the background. There was a choir singing when we visited and the stalls are farther apart so that one doesn’t feel crowded in. There were also stand-up kiosks with tables where groups can chat over their gluhwein and langos or grilled sausages. Frankly, I felt the Christmas spirit more here. It must be the effect of all that space, all that snow and the singing of Christmas carols. So, do I love Christmas Markets? You bet I do, even in this freaking cold weather! Will I do it again? Why ever not? There’s more gluhwein to drink, and more raclette to partake. Frohe Weihnacten.

Ho Ho Ho! ☃️⛄️⛄️

Schönbrunn

Schönbrunn 📸Gizelle José

Merry Christmas!


We’re a band of baby boomers, Generation X and millennials who just can’t stay put. But we all share the same penchant for food and serendipitous adventures. Having just recently returned from Vienna, Budapest and Bratislava, our beer-drinking group of 6 grew to a band of 15 pax. Quite an assortment, if you ask me. We’ve had a few trips tucked under our belt and I must say, we had so much fun. And this happy bunch is going again! I ditched earlier plans to go to Slovenia and Croatia to join the Happy Bunch for a holiday in Bologna and Vienna. Switching from the city of dragons (Ljubljana) and towns along the Adriatic, it’d be a week instead of food porn in this part of Italy where trufa, prosciutto, tortellini, mortadella, balsamico, tagliatelle, parmeggiano, Lambrusco reign supreme!

And this was only last July!

Touchdown, Bologna!

While some of us are visiting first-timers, Bologna as homebase offers many possibilities. Florence, Lucca and Pisa are just a half hour away by train and so is Modena, and a bit farther down, Parma. Then there’s Venice, Verona and Padua or Padova. The boys would likely not miss the chance to check out the museums — NOT of artworks, but those lovely machines going by the names of Lamborghini,Ducati and Ferrari. Different folks, different strokes. That’s what I love about this group. We’d split up to chase our own dreams, and reunite in a heartbeat. Like when we all agreed to visit one day the little republic of San Marino together and hopefully do a side trip to Ravenna. But most importantly, we agree on the food and vino. That’s important — and that’s how we ended up in Ristorante Victoria for our first meal and in Mercato delle Erbe for cocktails cum dinner after our walking tour.

Prosciutto, Mortadella, Burrata

Tagliatelle al Ragu

We had mussels cooked in wine and also with tomato sauce. Both really good!

Almost devoured before we remembered to snap a photo of Tortellini al Panna

It’s only Day 1. And we plan to do a more leisurely tour of Bologna after a good rest. For sure, we’d be back in Piazza Maggiore and visit the basilica and cathedral. There’s enough time as we’d be holed up in the same hotel for the next 5 nights. Bologna is not as cold as Vienna but single digit temps outdoors walking around the piazzas need some serious consideration. After all, it’s truly beginning to look like Christmas everywhere. The Christmas trees are up, so with the Christmas lights that make the place look so festive and magical. Much time to enjoy the illuminations since sunsets are early. Like 5pm!

On our way back home, we’d catch our homeward flight out of Vienna. Staying a few nights in this capital makes me giddy with anticipation. Why? There’s the many Christmas Markets of Vienna! Too many to count. It’s the Christmas Market of my dreams! A genuine Christmas Winter with temps hovering at low single digits or negatives. Gluhwein or mulled wine, raclette, bratwurst, apple strudels, Sacher torte and all those flaky baked delights. All savoured in negative temps. I’m excited, if you haven’t caught the drift. White Christmas feels? Let’s do this!

The Christmas Market of my dreams!


My Schengen visa is good till December 12 of this year. I do want to use it again and in fact drew up several options — like back to Spain for a week’s camino with my apo but he refused, thinking it’s too much hard work (hiking), or going to Croatia, or Iceland, or Poland — places I haven’t been to — or visit a friend in Switzerland. All plans fizzled out. Then some of my friends invited me to join their small group on an “impulsive, whimsical” trip to Vienna, Budapest and Bratislava. Problem is they are leaving Manila while I’m still in Vietnam. So I did the next best thing. I booked a ticket flying to Vienna on the same day I’m arriving from Vietnam to catch up with them. Why not? Or as they say here, “wine not”?

I was very tired when I landed early morning in Vienna. I should have slept throughout the 12-hour flight from Taipei to Viena but flying solo makes me all too cautious and alert that I must have slept only 3 hours max. I found my friends ready to hit the city when I reached our hotel soon after they were done with breakfast. And so we set off. By 9am, they were eager for their Viennese coffee after only an hour of city walk. (I was keen on having a beer though — yes, at 9am!) – and so we sat down and ordered our preferences. 🍺☕️

Since they got here earlier and covered the major Vienna attractions already, we planned on just a few more. It’s my 4th visit here so I don’t mind missing some of the sights. But I haven’t been to Belvedere Palace, so we did that. Plus a visit to the St. Stephen’s Cathedral. 🙏🏻

After Belvedere, St. Stephen’s and another pass of the Hapsburg Palace, we went in search for a good lunch in the Naschmart. Then we headed back towards the hotel for some rest. By evening, we set off for the Rathaus where a musical concert is taking place and where a lively, festive mercato-type food court is set up. I love these summer concerts and food camps. Dinner was an assortment of Viennese, German, Hungarian and Slovak delicacies although we likewise spotted some Asian food stalls. Here, we had our wine, spritzer and beer. Plus assorted sausages, meatloaf, and whatever else we spotted in the next table! It was crowded and we were lucky to get a table. No chairs. But we’re just too happy with our drinks, pica pica and music that we can’t complain.

Since the musical concert wouldn’t start yet and we’re done with dinner, we decided to make good use of our time. The coffee and pastry shop at the corner beckoned. It was time for iced coffee, lattes, sacher torte and apple strudel. We picked a good spot to people-watch that we had to struggle getting up and out to claim our seats in front of the Rathaus for the musical concert.

While my friends stayed 3 nights in Vienna, I only managed a night. No worries. I’m really more keen on the trip’s 2nd leg: Budapest in Hungary. So, the next day we geared up for the train ride to Budapest. Watch this page!