Tag Archive: art


No Touristy Stuff in Firenze?

Filed under: Europe, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
May 15, 2024

We had all of 7 days and 6 nights here in Florence. Minus 2 whole days for out-of-town excursions. I stayed in to recharge for 2 whole days while apos visited more museums and met up with friends. I made sure I sent them off to Uffizi Art Gallery and the Medici Museum but interestingly, they also visited the Ferragamo Museum and the Gucci Garden Museum. I remember they enjoyed the Dior Museum in Paris last year. After all, the lines are blurred between art and fashion. On Day 1 here, I joined them viewing Kiefer’s exhibit at the Palazzo Strozzi and the oldest pharmacy in the world. We also passed the piazza where the Duomo is, and we had meals at the Mercato Centrale. Beyond that, their interests seem to lie elsewhere. Just off Palazzo Strozzi is an impressive theater cum bookshop. Cinema Odeon is housed in a Renaissance palace with an amphitheater-like structure where you can claim a seat among stacks of books. We spent a lot of time here, and I’m told they went back the next day without me.

Palazzo Strozzi
Uffizi Gallery

We were all fascinated by the art exhibit we viewed almost on a whim (Kiefer in Palazzo Strozzi) and Cinema Odeon — a very unique bookstore around Piazza Strozzi. So with our random dining finds for best gelato, best pizza, best bistecca, best paninis, best affogato and best rooftop bar. While we decided on our first bistecca at the Mercato, we chanced upon this gelateria which suggested we try this very local flavor called “buontalenti”, named after the inventor of the Italian gelato himself! The movie “Eat, Pray and Love” featured this pizza joint which now proudly hangs a photo of Julia Roberts — and we dare say it isn’t a hype. We actually enjoyed their Napoletania and Primavera pizzas, along with those Italian rice balls called arancino. Dining tips came in handy too from the hotel concierge and we’re glad we heeded Alex’s advice. Missed the ribollita and pasta I had years earlier in Trattoria ZaZa and Trattoria Garibaldi, but we totally enjoyed our dinners at Trattoria il Giardino (loved the Tuscan coccoli) and Trattoria Burrasca (best bistecca!). As for happy hours, nothing beats sipping rosé at sundown in Art on View Rooftop Bar. If this all sounds to you like a food trip, it seriously is. The same DNA runs in their veins, after all.

View on Art Rooftop bar.
The Duomo

The days I wasn’t with them, they went for quick lunches at All’ Antico Vinaio. And ate more gelato. They also swore they had the best affogato in Vivoli and promised to take me there. And I swear they were not lying! I offered to take them around the historic center to check out spots they missed but these 2 had other interests. Told you 😜 A food trip in Italy? Not a bad idea. As for me, I’m ready for our out-of-town excursions. Makes life simpler just hopping in a bus to take us to touristy spots with a laid-out itinerary guided by a tour director. No bus or train tickets to buy. No lunch reservations to book. And I ensure these 2 learn some history outside of the dining scene. Ciao!

Best Affogato!

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Post-Biennale, Off to Firenze

Filed under: Europe, Food Trip, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
May 13, 2024

By noontime, we trooped to Mestre Train Station for our ride to Florence. Made sure our trip has 0 stops as I doubt we have the energy to switch trains and drag our big bags. We were famished by the time we reached Firenze SMN Station. Our apartment is just off the Basilica Di Santa Maria Novella but it took all of our energy to walk with our luggage in tow. Having checked in, we fell in love with our apartment. With 6 nights to spend here, I’ve decided to stay in for a much-needed rest to recover my sapped energy, do the laundry (3 weeks load!) and send off the apos to make other arrangements like meet some friends, hit more art galleries, do shopping or whatever else in the next 2 days. The NEXT couple of days. Today, some introductions are in order.

Basilica of Santa Maria Novella
The oldest pharmacy — now perfumery — in the world.

As soon as we loaded the first batch of laundry into the washing machine, we took off. Very near our apartment is the oldest running pharmacy in Florence, and in the world: the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. It all started in 1221 with Dominican friars developing a botanical garden of plants and herbs to produce healing ointments, balms and other medicines. Over time, the concoctions produced perfumes which counted royalties and prominent families among its clients. We sniffed around — and liked the scents but didn’t end up buying any. From this pharmacy, we walked a few blocks to reach Palazzo Strozzi where we promptly bought tickets to view Anselm Kiefer’s exhibit “Fallen Angels”. Very impressive. Not our first impression though, but his art grows on you as you spend more time with the artworks.

Kiefer’s “Fallen Angels” in Palazzo Strozzi

On our first day in Florence, we passed the Piazza Di Santa Maria Novella, visited the world’s oldest pharmacy, viewed an art exhibit, admired the magnificent Duomo, chanced upon the Odeon Theater cum Bookshop, and ended up in Mercato Centrale for dinner. We wanted to eat in the nearby trattorias but we were so hungry that we found the long lines frustrating. And so, we had our first bistecca florentina at the Mercato. Rarely that we dined without any conversation, but this is one moment. We devoured the Chianina beef like there’s no tomorrow. Gelato for a good finish and we had the best flavor ever — buontalenti, named after Bernardo Buontalenti, the Florentine inventor of Gelato.

Bistecca alla Florentina
Gelato
Mercato Centrale

Having crossed 3 timezones, I looked forward to the next 2 days of doing nothing. Well, not exactly nothing. Like a doting abuela, I did the laundry and even cooked dinner. I also managed to book excursions for the next 2 days : one to Cinque Terre and another day trip to visit Siena, San Gimignano, Chianti and Monteriggioni. Plus a dinner booking at a nearby Trattoria il Giardino. Nieto y Nieta were on their own the first 2 whole days in Firenze, meeting their Abuela only for dinner either at the apartment (for a home cooked meal) or in a nearby trattoria. We did return to the Mercato Centrale to buy dinner to eat in the apartment. Even the young get exhausted as they preferred to stay in in the apartment that became our cozy home for a week. And they’re only on their second week while their Abuela has already clocked 6 weeks. 😜

More to write about Firenze. Wait for the next blog.

Good pasta, osso buco and coccoli
Soft music on a chilly night.
I’m on holiday 💤
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Last Seat to Venice

Filed under: art, Europe, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment

The original plan was just Chile and Peru either via California or Sydney. Choosing the latter, it was a no brainer to fly ahead and spend some weeks there to be with family. And then the Venice exhibit of Nieta popped up. Of course, we had to be there! But there’s the business of visas and bookings. And I’d be on my last couple of days in Peru when the vernissage and exhibit opening happens. Apos would have to go on their own while their abuela arranges to later join them. My brain matter was all over the place. Temporary hotel bookings were made but the flights out of Lima, Peru didn’t offer many options. That last seat was non-refundable and non-rebookable. Take it or leave it. I took it. Problem is I’d be flying from Puno to Lima, Peru a day prior on LatAm and based on my previous experiences, this airline wasn’t the most reliable. Sweeping all anxieties aside, I crossed my fingers and prayed for a seamless flight out of Lima to arrive in time for the Venice Biennale 2024 exhibit opening.

Touchdown, Venezia!
Around Venice

The Iberia flight out of Lima had a Madrid stopover. I was tempted to enjoy some churros or tapas with Rioja but chose to remain sober and clear-minded for the connecting flight. Can’t miss this connection. Anxieties spilling all over, overflowing. Thankfully, the flight was uneventful and so was the airport shuttle I took for Mestre Station near our hotel in Venice. Oh, did I tell you? The hotel I booked in Venice near the exhibit venue cancelled our booking. A major headache since the Venice Biennale 2024 was already in full swing and most hotels are either fully booked or if available, at outrageous rates! Because my apos will arrive some days before me, I wanted to make sure they have reliable hotel bookings and that being first-timers in Venezia, they will easily find their hotel. Venice being Venice, it isn’t easy wandering around this car-less city and dragging luggage from one vaporetto station to the next. So Mestre was our choice. And what a relief hearing these 2 apos calling out to me as soon as I got off the shuttle at the Mestre train station. All’s well. We’re together now. And as soon as I dropped off my bag in our hotel, we took off for lunch and the exhibit.

Lunch was here.

After lunch, we proceeded to Palazzo Mora to view apo’s “From Here, To There” artwork. I may have missed the cocktail reception for the artists and invited friends, but I got here in time for the public opening. Said a Thanksgiving prayer, as I felt my heart swell with pride and love. Not just for apo’s piece but also for the 11 artworks of other participating Filipino visual artists included in this exhibition in Venezia. So proud of all of them. I was nearly dancing out of Palazzo Mora when done, and celebrated with apos with a gondola ride to imbibe Venetian vibes and savor every moment of this magical moment. The gondolier sang us a beautiful Italian song — not the typical O Sole Mio or Santa Lucia, but it was beautiful and so soothing on an exciting day like this one. Our nerves calmed, we hopped out of the gondola to wander around St. Mark’s Square, Bridge of Sighs and the Rialto Bridge.

Dreams do come true.
I cried just viewing Nieta’s artwork in Palazzo Mora.
Our Gondola Ride

While apos have been here some days before me, I spent only a night here as we’ve decided to train out the next day for our next base for Tuscan excursions in Firenze. It’s my 5th visit here but felt like it was my 1st as I saw Venice through Nieto y Nieta’s perspectives. We wandered around while enjoying our gelatos and rode the vaporettos with the locals. All in a half day. By sundown, I was ready to drop. Bushed. Can’t even remember where we had dinner. I only managed to take a bath and pull out my sleeping garment and next-day wardrobe for the train ride to Florence. Mercifully, the train leaves noontime so we were all able to sleep in the whole morning. 💤

Posterity Shot at Piazza San Marco

Arrivederci, Venezia

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Around Circular Quay

Filed under: Australia, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
March 25, 2024

A stopover in Sydney demands at least one visit to the Circular Quay. Whether or not you’re riding the ferry, it’s mandatory to enjoy that view of the harbour, the bridge and the grand dame — the Sydney Opera House. Trust me, the joy of seeing this view never ever fades regardless how many times you’ve been here. Beats all Harbor views, in my book. And if all you have to do in Sydney is take ferry rides, you’d never run out of things to do. There are many spots around Sydney from where you can enjoy a view of the bridge and Opera House. Always a delight! And from the Quay, there are many walking paths — towards The Rocks, The Royal Botanical Garden, Museum of Contemporary Art ( Sydney Biennale ongoing), and Sydney Conservatorium of Music where I enjoyed a Lunch Break jazz concert.

Harbour Bridge
Lunch Break Jazz Concert

From the suburbs, I took the nearly hour’s ride to Circular Quay and on my second visit, I was delighted to encounter this mega-city of a boat called the Celebrity Edge. Many passengers starting to board for the nearly 2 week cruise to New Zealand. I was thrilled to see the boat as my friends and I have just booked a 12-night cruise in November this year. Huge! And I tried to imagine where our cabins would be. Exciting!

Celebrity Edge docked in Circular Quay
The Customs House. This is one spot I won’t miss during the Vivid Sydney season.

Meanwhile, there’s the Sydney Biennale in the Museum of Contemporary Art right around the quay. And on the other end, the Opera House, Conservatory and the Gardens. The latter offers truly blissful walks. And if you care to break the walk to enjoy some coffee and a pies or wraps, you’d easily spot a Café within the gardens.

Sydney Biennale 2024
A View of the Opera House from Cremorne Point

Easily, one can spend a whole day here without even taking a ferry ride. However, should you wish to take the ferry towards Manly, Watson’s or Mosman Bay, or just do the quick ride to Barangaroo, Darling Harbour, Cremorne Point or wherever else, I’d advise you leave early enough to beat the crowds. We enjoyed our lunch in one of the restaurants in Gateway just behind the Quay Station Building, and witnessed the long lines at the wharves past noon. Enjoy!

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The Mundane Things To Enjoy

Filed under: Musings & Ramblings — 2 Comments
January 27, 2024

The adventures — the parties, travels, dinner dates, reunions, concert dates, birthdays — happen throughout the year and we mark them on our calendars like we live looking forward to such major events. But what about the daily routines? The trip to the groceries, picking out the bread, the coffee rituals in the mornings, the trips to the doctors and the lab, the church, the mundane stuff we do everyday?

Ratatouille Empanada & Blueberry Muffin

On a daily basis, I try to find a balance — praying a good hour in solitude , for others, and expressing my gratitude for many everyday blessings. Often, I grind, brew my own coffee and in my book, it’s my first luxury of the day that truly makes me happy. On alternate days I go and hang out on dates with my fun apos (grandchildren) and dear friends. The dynamics differ yet each gives me joy and satisfaction. You can’t ignore the fun, laughter and banter exchanged with my lifetime friends — the friends who know me inside and out. No pretensions. No holds barred. All boundaries crossed! Yet I find them most respectful of my private space and least bothered by my forgettable past and future plans. In our books, only US matter. As an Abuela to my elves, the bonding moments are precious. Just an hour over coffee or wine, and we’re cool. Happy hours every time. I reserve a day to devote to “compassion” like visiting, praying for a sick friend or relative, doing a good and surprise deed to someone who least expects it, and just simply remembering to be kind throughout the day. My theory is practicing to be kind can develop into a habit and later comprise one’s character. I admit I’m one straightforward person and holding my tongue is a skill to be acquired. I’m not exactly unkind but for the longest time, I preferred being honest than kind. At my age now, I’ve found ways of being kind without having to be dishonest. Another skill. The secret? Staying QUIET. And walking away. Not every thing requires a reaction. That I’ve learned in my late age. And the grudges? Easier to forgive as I still need to forget. But I’m getting there. 🙏

My semi-annual battery of tests
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Vincent in St. Remy de Provence

Filed under: Europe, Travel, travels — 2 Comments
June 7, 2023

It was the last stop for the day. My recollection of my 2003 visit here was driving through Roman and Greek ruins which are the iconic landmarks of this ancient town. Think Julius Caesar. But we didn’t come here for these archaeological sites. Nor did we visit because it’s the birthplace of Nostradamus. We came for Van Gogh. That genius of a man had himself admitted in Saint-Paul de Mausole’s psychiatric institution as he sensed his mental health deteriorating despite the hospital treatment he was getting in Arles. Arles and Saint-Rémy-de-Provence are nearby towns not too far from Avignon and Vincent stayed in the monastery cum psychiatric clinic here for a good one year.

The Greek and Roman ruins of St. Rémy de Provence. This is the image in my mind from my 2003 visit.
Saint Paul de Mausole along Van Gogh Avenue

While he only stayed a year here, his 150 or so paintings are among the popular pieces spread and displayed in prominent museums all over the art world. His lonely and desolate rooms were painted on canvas — the bed, the chair, the window, the landscapes and blooms viewed from the window. Since he stayed a year, his works captured the seasonal changes including the mistral as well as the dry spells brought in by the Provençal summers. The farms, the peasants, the flowers and trees — all these were reflected on the 150 inspired works of art. Walking around Van Gogh Avenue, there would be repros of Vincent’s artworks against a backdrop of the actual scenes. One can say Van Gogh simply never stopped painting. Whether art was his therapy or not, it certainly occupied his mind 24/7.

The monastery garden and courtyard provide enough inspiration. Very beautifully laid out. Amidst arcades, fountains and beds of flowers, one feels compelled to sit for a few moments and space out. The gardens behind the monastery can be viewed from Van Gogh’s room and studio, so it is easy to imagine how the blooms change with the seasons. More so how the landscapes changed as viewed day or night. A pity we were a couple of weeks early till the lavenders fully bloom. That must be a pretty sight. The flowers were just starting to sprout when we visited but we can already sense a faint smell of the soothing buds.

The monastery courtyard.
In summer, this field is littered with lavenders!

Our driver guide gave us enough time to linger. We made a second pass of the artist’s quarters and the back gardens before settling down in the courtyard. Seeing my nieta open her sketchbook and watercolours, I gingerly turned back towards the museum shop. Heaved a sigh of relief that the weather cooperated so we can enjoy the sunlight rather than the forecast of showers and gray skies. While loitering around gardens, I spotted a young man with an easel seemingly looking for a quiet corner. His search ended with a good spot amidst the arcaded passageways between columns but a perfect view of the courtyard bathed in sunlight. Bless these artists for cheering us up with their creations!

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Anna Bauti’s Journey in Art

Filed under: art, Musings & Ramblings — 2 Comments
July 16, 2022

Her first solo exhibition was in 2019. That early,her fascination with empowered women spoke through her symbolic “Maria Claras” expressed as modern Filipinas. Through the years, this theme almost always found expression in many of her art works. Somehow evolving, but the message remains and its meaning more clearly professed and manifested. Added in are the iconic abanicos (fans) and the kalachuchi flowers.

A few taking residence in her temporary art studio.
In Her Studio

Mona Clara. I remember this as the title of her first painting of a Modern Filipina. Mysterious just like Mona Lisa. “Confused” just like Maria Clara. Maria Clara in today’s language has come to mean either the country’s costume, or describe the traditional, shy, demure, noble and virginal Filipina. It is also one of the main characters in the book “Noli Me Tangere” where she is said to symbolise the state and sad plight of the motherland, our Philippines.

In this artist’s mind, her character MONA CLARA combines the qualities of mystery, tradition, confusion and some traces of humor. Perhaps one can even detect a subversive element. Through the years, the series depicted the Modern Filipina in today’s culture in a very satirical way. The approach and treatment leave the viewer to draw his/her own interpretation. Without question, the artist wittingly invites the viewer to discern a serious message.

LEÓN GALLERY
Work In Progress

This 6th solo exhibition is titled “Redefinition”, which explores, celebrates and challenges what it means to be a Modern Filipina. Using the Filipino terno as a visual device, it is a challenge to the standards set by Maria Clara — by Filipinas themselves, through the brushstrokes of Filipina artist Anna Bautista.

Emblematic of the history of Maria Clara, the Philippine terno has long stood for tradition. These were what a woman was to wear but more than that, what a Filipino woman had to be. It is a living time capsule of the culture,art, fashion, government systems, politics and societal norms that thrived in old Philippine society. Anna believes the Philippine Terno has evolved alongside Filipinas — partly in how it looks, but mainly in what it stands for.

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A Palace-full of Memories

Filed under: Food Trip, Musings & Ramblings, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 2 Comments
April 17, 2022

It started out as a heritage house tour and simple get-together of long time friends, then as bienvenida for visiting family members, and finally as a pseudo wedding reception for a young couple whose most significant ceremony we all missed because of the pandemic. There were 18 adults and 2 toddlers meeting for the first time who hardly warmed up and interacted with each other. Topics covered a broad range and the long table divided between the senior and younger members of the family. All’s well.

Palacio de Memoria

We nearly went overboard with the pseudo wedding reception. A bridal bouquet, a flower girl’s flower basket, the ring bearer’s pillow, the wedding cake. All in good fun. That happens when we all felt deprived missing a young couple’s wedding. The sprawling garden provided a beautiful backdrop for our group picture as well as bridal bouquet toss up between a spinster and a widow! The little girls from the past have all grown up, some with their adult children and toddlers. And the more senior members have done away with the dyes, proudly bearing their greying hair. The laughter across the long table sounded just as loud and crisp, the jokes nearly the same, and the banter seemingly endless but fun.

All In The Family
The Long Table

Here’s one unforgettable get together of family and friends. Never mind that the museum tour was cancelled and the bar housed inside one of the airplanes (spotted the 3 aircraft collections parked in the lawn) were closed. We enjoyed the antipasti and the main entrée as well as the refreshing beverages and vanilla-flavoured wedding cake. The pre-ordered al fresco lunch was seamlessly served and there was time enough to loiter around the gardens. For sure, I’d be back for the guided tour and the date at the bar. Por supuesto!

The Antipasti and the Wedding Cake
A Choice of Lamb, Beef, Salmon or Pasta

Palacio de Memoria is now an events and auction venue consisting of a historic mansion restored to its pre-war glory. Abandoned for 2 decades and now owned by the Lhuilliers to house their antique collections including the 3 aircraft, one of which has since been converted into a bar. One can just imagine how this heritage mansion cut a majestic vista right along the wide Roxas Boulevard just across the Manila Bay before parts of the Bay were reclaimed. I bet many parties were held in its sprawling lawn while the breeze gusts in from Manila Bay. At the time we visited, tents were being set up in the front lawn for what looked like a wedding event. I can also imagine what great parties one can host here to celebrate birthdays, anniversaries or just about any momentous occasion. And there’s La Loggia Restaurant housed in a separate al fresco structure right beside the Mansion to provide the Italian food and refreshments. I heard one can even arrange picnics under one of the trees or just outside the airplanes with a picnic basket packed by La Loggia. Swell!

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Pandemic-Inspired Art

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July 20, 2021

It’s been over a year now and while the lockdown has restricted us to our sacred bubbles and sanctuaries, I am particularly entertained by how productive my Nieta has been with her art. Since the pandemic changed our new normals, Nieta has had 3 solo exhibits and a spattering of group exhibits. Of her artworks, some evoke more Covid memories in my book. I’m sure the ones who purchased these art pieces would look back to these times whenever they view and hopefully appreciate the meanings behind these expressions.

From “PAUSE”, her 2nd Solo Exhibit (Online)
Art By Anna Bautista

Her models revolved around our household staff and condominium’s maintenance and security crew. In her 3rd solo exhibit, her recurring theme of consumerism marked her artistic interpretations of the fruits, plants and flowers mostly found in the gardens. Some expressions even found its way on silk scarves. And resin trays.

Anna Bauti’s 3rd Solo Exhibit
Anna Bautista’s 3rd Solo Exhibit at MODEKA Art Gallery
Exhibited at Pintô Art Museum July 12-25, 2021

In between her 2nd and 3rd Solo Exhibits, she painted for charity projects and group exhibitions. Here, she drew inspiration from the “new normal” permeating our daily lives as well as current social issues. It was even interesting to discern that very rare but relevant political concerns in her artworks.

“Sapin-Sapin”, inspired by the ABS-CBN Shutdown

Her 4th solo exhibit dwelled on everyday chores —- seemingly “gray matters” or dull moments which are now punctuated by interpretations of how life can be made more exciting with pockets of colour to cheer us on. Truly, pandemic fatigue and lockdown depression can set in, but one’s attitude (and I say, gratitude) is what it takes to brighten our moods. Just like how many of us found joy in growing plants, herbs and flowers. Or in enhancing our kitchen skills like baking and cooking. The new norm may stick for a few more months, even years. And with such, new skills are deployed to strike a new balance in our lives.

It may be a while before the next solo exhibit next year. After all, she was on a roll since 2020. Now a college graduate and gainfully employed, Nieta has to mindfully manage her time. Good luck, apo.

Art on Scarves by Anna Bautista
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Before The Year 2020’s Over

Filed under: art, Musings & Ramblings — 4 Comments
December 15, 2020

Life under quarantine. The new normal. Covid times. Social Distancing. These describe our present situation. No one was prepared for it. As the situation unfolded, acceptance of such reality took time. Unless and until lockdowns were put in place, flights may have gone on, dine-outs and parties pursued, get-togethers and meet-ups going non-stop. After 9 months, people have adapted to the more restrictive lifestyle. Zoom meetings replaced physical meet-ups. Online masses rather than actual trips to the church. Even weddings are via zoom. It’s a chore to go to the salon for haircuts and beauty treatments. Online shopping is doing brisk business. Same goes with food deliveries. So, how are we surviving?

We’re saving a lot of money making our own coffee. And it’s an adventure to try different beans and pods. Three coffee machines occupy space in my tiny studio and the first decision for the day is which machine to run. Our “Manang” regularly checks YouTube for baking lessons and her repertoire now includes bread, cakes and pies. More savings! The fragrant aroma wafting from the kitchen may have inspired the resident artist to paint for her 2 solo exhibits last April and October, and a couple more group exhibits she joined. Though few and far between, the light traffic encouraged me to drive again — just short trips to the tiny, boutique art galleries in the neighbourhood before or after meals in some outdoor cafe. At home, we have also grown experimental with our cocktails. And Netflix has become a way of life for us.

We’ve adapted reasonably well, but I do miss meeting my friends for lunch or coffee. More than that, I miss my travels and trips to the beauty and massage parlours. I get by with drive-thru bloodworks and medical consultations via Zoom but I do miss my regular visits to my dentist! And because of the restrictions, day-outs are very infrequent but absolutely treasured. My smiles come really cheap whenever I step out of the house with either family or with friends. We’ve also rediscovered the joy in joyrides! Yet again, a new routine has emerged and my daily life is truly nothing to complain about. Our only anxieties are health-related but our paranoia has dwindled down without being reckless. A few more months, maybe. Or perhaps a year or so. We’d all manage. We can overcome this!

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