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SUNSETS IN ZAMBIA


How many sunset shots before you give your camera a rest? How many Mosi beers or red wines or cocktail drinks while cruising along the Zambezi River before you call it a day? How many beast surprises – an elephant here, a croc there, a hippo by the riverbank – before you realize THIS IS AFRICA!

 

 

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Sunset While Cruising the Zambezi River

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Cruising Till Sundown

 

 

Here in Zambia, Lady Luck was with me all the way. The 25-minute helicopter flight, the Livingstone Island Visit, the African Queen Sunset Cruise. I’ve seen more elephants and hippos here than in all my zoo visits combined in my lifetime! Like I hardly remember how I felt when I saw that lone elephant while on a boat to Livingstone Island. We spotted more on our heliflight as the copter flew over an island with as many as 7 elephants there! Like I could hardly contain my enthusiasm over the nearly guaranteed viewing of hippos while doing the Sunset Cruise. They were not few. One too many, with one managing to draw oooohhhhs  and aaaaahhhs from the cruise passengers as he opened his mouth as in a big yawn.

 

 

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Ever wondered why elephants flap their ears?

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Hippos Are Main Attractions Too.

 

 

All that excitement……. helped along by an “OPEN BAR” and a very friendly English-speaking crew. I started and ended with red wine. Tempting to try Mosi Beer. Truly Zambian, but that can wait another day. Every now and then, I’d carry my glass from the bar to the deck. Who ever grows tired of sunsets?

 

 

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This is the little “sister” of the African Queen Sunset Cruise.

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The crew of friendly sailors were all so friendly on the whole 2 hour cruise.

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Who ever grows tired of sunsets?

 

A bit of trivia here: Elephants flap their ears to cool themselves as when it’s hot or when it’s upset. When you see one, don’t bother guessing if it’s feeling warm or upset. Best is to simply stay away.

 

Cheers, everyone! GESONDHEID!

 

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Truly Zambian!


The view takes your breath away. And that’s not an overstatement!

 

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Oh, that lonely bench again! I see it everywhere. With a promise of a perfect view!

 

Knysna Heads. Imagine pre-steam ships going through that gap sailing into the lagoon. I can sit here all afternoon till sundown just staring into those breakers, watching the tides flow without breaking a stride to spill out into the vast Indian Ocean. Truly, an impressive view especially when the tides lift and flow over the rocks and sandbars.

 

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Walking Towards the Rocks and the Lighthouse

 

The scenery before we stopped to appreciate this lagoon view somehow prepared us. My, this is really prime property with this premier view! The rocks, the tides, the lighthouse. Sitting on that bench with a cup of good brew or a flute of champagne should complete the deal. And don’t tell me it’s too early for my bubbles!

 

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The Lighthouse

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Framed by the Bus Window. So Lovely On This Wintry Day!

 

So, what did we miss? This foodie missed something big time. We passed it on our way to the lighthouse. Didn’t give it much attention as we were eager to see the views from the rocks. Read about it. But it didn’t stick. Aaahhhh….. This old hag must be losing it.

 

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I want to cry. Waaaaahhhhh!

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And we just passed it without giving a hoot! Waaaaahhhhhh.

 

And it’s just not the view. Breakfast all day in this cafe. Good coffee and wine selection. No pretensions. Just good home-cooked comfort food. EASTHEAD CAFE. Yay! Knysna truly surprises. The lagoon, the waterfront, the quays, the lighthouse, the quaint cafés and bistros. I can live here!

 

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The Coffee Connection in Old Knysna

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Lemon Meringue Pie and a Frothy Coffee @Coffee Connection

 

You lose some. You win some. In the “Old Knysna” I didn’t miss checking out Coffee Connection. This social hub has the best lemon meringue pie I ever tasted. Climbing up the stairs to go to the loo, I noticed how quaint the staircase, flooring and restrooms are. As it turned out, this 20-year old coffee hub is housed in an 18th century building which has since become a landmark in the “Old Knysna”. Nice. I got my frothy coffee, the best pie and the old charm of an 18th century landmark edifice. Swell.

 

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SAY THAT AGAIN!

 

 

Easthead Cafe just had to wait for my next visit! Maybe I can spend more time here in Knysna. Charming place. Good food. My neighborhood!


Nearly a half hour’s drive from the principal town of Oudtshoorn lies the limestone mountains of the Klein Karoo. The Cango Caves claim to have one of the biggest stalagmite formations in the world. Now, I’m not a big fan of caves and stalagmites or stalactites, but thought the supervised tour would be a good opportunity to spend a “productive” hour or so.

 

 

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This is the “atrium”. Looks like a hall waiting for a concert to commence!

 

 

The caverns and tunnels opened up to “atriums” like the photo above. Like there’s a big hall ready for a concert. The stalagmite formations are very impressive. I had to deliberately stop snapping photos after convincing myself that one can only have so many photos of these natural wonders.

 

 

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Dripstone caverns. Cango Caves claim to have the largest stalagmite formations in the whole world.

 

 

An adventure tour is available where one can view more drip stone caverns while fumbling on all fours. Not for me. As we walked through the tunnels and passageways, I was peeling off layers of shirts I earlier put on as the cave temp rose. Besides, I was quite content to see and photograph “Cleopatra’s Needle”. All of 9 meters and “only” 150,000 years old. Easily, it’s the main attraction inside the Cango Caves.

 

 

 

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The many drip stone formations which took millions of years to form are breathtaking. And that’s coming from someone who doesn’t dig caves and stalagmites/stalactites. Amazing how these caverns can exist beneath these limestone mountains! As we were leaving, I reviewed some interior shots and found this. I couldn’t make heads or tails off the last photo. Can you?

 

 

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BOO!


You don’t go to Africa to visit a zoo, right? But then again, you may not get so lucky with your safari drives so…… consider this a “preview” of what’s good to see. This is Cango Wildlife Ranch just outside Oudtshoorn, the principal town of the Little Karoo.

 

 

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Cango Wildlife Ranch in the outskirts of Oudtshoorn. South Africa

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The leopard we missed in the safari.

 

 

As it turned out, we missed 1 out of the Big 5. The LEOPARD was very elusive. We saw the lions, cape buffaloes, elephants and the rhinos. Four out of 5 ain’t bad for a first safari adventure. More so if one has seen more antelopes that one can name, plus the cheetahs, hippos, baboons, wildebeest, warthogs, crocs (or were they alligators?) and many bird species.

 

 

 

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Simba’s Dad?

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In the animal kingdom, I’ve got to admit the male lion with his lovely mane is so much lovelier than the lioness.

 

 

It was a cold, rainy day when we reached the Wildlife Ranch. Protected by disposable raincoats, we passed the hanging bridge and boardwalks to view the many animals, crocs and birds. I was reminded of “Residence Inn” in Tagaytay, only better. At least the lions, tigers and leopards freely roam around a rather limited but adequate space rather than put in cages too small to drive them crazy over time.

 

 

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The wildlife ranch (zoo to many) is well-kept, clean and nearly odorless. And the guides are very very good.

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No tigers in Africa. But there’s one here in Cango Wildlife Ranch.

 

 

Some visitors came for photo ops with the beasts. There was a man looking a tad tentative for his pictorial with a cheetah. The beast must be fed well to be so unmindful of visitors and obedient to its trainers or zookeepers. We had a very playful guide touring us around. Twice, on a bend, she hid to surprise me with a tap on my shoulder or a “bite” on my leg. Each time, it earned a mild scream from moí. She was good!

 

 

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Cold and rainy day.

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To this day, I wonder what he’d do if that cheetah so much as roared.

 

 

Small and manageable, the ranch must be a hit with children too young for safaris. The flamingos, bats, vultures and other birds look happy residents. The ranch is well kept, clean and nearly odorless. The visit is best combined with a visit to the Cango caves some distance from the town, if you have time to spare. But don’t forget to leave some time for wine tasting in this wine region. There are a number of wine estates here with superb dining outlets. Now, wouldn’t that complete your day!

 

 

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Now, that’s a real vulture!

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Friends who know me know that I don’t have much interest in shopping. I do not begrudge those who do, but I’m always armed with a good book (or even a map!) to while away the time while my buddies do the shopping. A good brew or a glass of syrah helps too. My family would always spot a good corner in some cafe or bar where they’d deposit me while they shop.

 

 

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The Exotic Pates of Africa: Crocodile Meat, Impala, Ostrich, Springbok, Kudu Pate.

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Rooibos Tea. No caffeine. Really!

 

 

But I’m a sucker for food items. And if they come in small packages, I’d surely knock them off the shelves. Out of Africa and Taste of Africa offered such African delicacies that I couldn’t resist snatching up bags of the caffein-free rooibos tea. Good and healthy. And how about the pâtés from such exotic meats like crocodile, impala, kudu, springbok and ostrich? Yeah, quite a find! These I most certainly need to bring home.

 

 

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Chair Made With Ostrich Leather!

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Benches Made with Ostrich Leather. Love the Blue Color!

 

 

Small parcels like those pâtés and local teas are fine. But how about the ostrich leather chair and benches from Berluda? I want those! I probably should have purchased one of those ostrich leather bags or purses instead. But retired that I am, I would likely spend more time on that chair than carry a bag to wherever. And so I left without any ostrich souvenir. 😂

 

 

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PLEASE> No more biltongs.

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Love the colors!

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Knysna Quay is a treasure trove of curio shops and coffee bars!

 

 

In Knysna Quays, we did some craft shopping. There are nice beadwork to be found here. Matching African neckwear and bracelets. Got a couple of those. In the Elephant Park, there are more souvenir items like magnets, keychains and headwear. If you’re into safari vests and jackets, you’d find some with the words “Cango Wild Ranch” or “Knysna Elephant Park” emblazoned on the chest.

 

 

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The Knysna Elephant Park Sun Visor (Thanks Beth!)

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Refrigerator Magnets, and other souvenirs.

 

 

In Hout Bay before our boat ride to the Seals Island, there were street vendors with local handicraft for sale. Bulky souvenirs I call ’em. I’d stick to my small parcels of table delights!

 

 

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Craft finds in Hout Bay

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Wooden Bowls from Hout Bay


Ebony and Ivory. Black and White. Remember the Beatles song composed by Paul McCartney? Named “Song of the Century” this song assumes more relevance as South Africa struggled out of apartheid to give more meaning to the song’s message of whites and blacks living in harmony.

 

 

From Cape Town through Barrydale and Oudtshoorn to Knysna with sleepovers along the way in the lovely landscape, seascape and flynbo gardens of South Africa. I wanted to see them elephants in the wilds. So, why here in Knysna Elephant Park?

 

 

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We hold hands. They hold trunks. Sweet!

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Remember Paul McCartney’s Ebony and Ivory?

 

 

Well, these are abandoned elephants now cared for in a controlled but free-range environment just outside the lovely town of Knysna. For a few rands, you can buy buckets of apples and oranges to feed the elephants. Amazing how these young mahouts trained these animals to stand behind a metal bar, waiting to be fed, every time a tractor “van” unloads park visitors. My only regret is that the baby elephants are blocked out by the bigger ones come feeding time. Once I tried feeding the baby who was reaching out with his trunk to pick up an orange, only to be loudly and angrily shooed off by the adult elephant. The not so little one scampered off. Hungry. Poor baby. 😒🐘

 

 

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Ready with our buckets full of apples and oranges!

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Here, Baby. Mommy has a bucketful of oranges for you! Sssshhhh….

 

 

I’m sure it’s an altogether different experience seeing them in a wildlife park. But the vastness of this park assumes a natural habitat where they graze freely, even if their residents are a little spoiled and “bucket-fed” by park visitors. Since you can’t get up close to one in the wilds without risking being trampled upon by these beasts, this experience is good for first-timers like us. Interestingly, many safari accidents involved elephants more than lions, leopards or some other fierce animals. Just remember that an elephant’s foot, measured in circumference, multiplied by 2.5 approximates its height. So, if you’re following some elephant tracks in the wilds, you’d have an estimation of this animal’s size.

 

 

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Mommy Elephant or Daddy Elephant? (AT KNYSNA ELEPHANT PARK)

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More park visitors off the tractor van. More food!

 

 

Feeding the elephants should be an exciting experience for kids. If I was thrilled getting an elephant’s trunk hover and snatch up the orange on my palm, what kid won’t? Yet for all its size, I am amazed how gently and quietly these big animals move. A big one can sneak right behind you and snatch that apple or orange before you’re ready! One actually nudged one of the ladies, nearly pushing her back with the elephant’s trunk. Naughty elephant! so remember NEVER to turn your back on an elephant. 🐘🐘🐘

 

 

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One of the lady visitors got a nudge on the back. Naughty elephant!

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My Sweet Caroline! (At Knysna Elephant Park. South Africa)

 

 

Gentle giants. That’s what they are. Moody, maybe. But they have such a sweet, endearing nature. Men as predators of these gentle creatures make me sick. Those beautiful tusks are their curse. Many of the elephants in Knysna Park were orphaned when poachers killed their parents to retrieve those prized ivory tusks. Knysna provided a sanctuary for them. One can only wish time will come when these animals are spared from poaching and allowed to live in the wilds without the threat of extinction.

 

 

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They’re moody. They’re sentimental. They’re sweet. Orphaned elephants in this sanctuary in Knysna are cared for with tons of love and affection.

 

 

TRIVIA: Male elephants are called bulls. Females are cows. And the baby elephants are calves. Just like cattle. When you see a herd of elephants, it’s likely the adult elephants are cow elephants. All female. Why? The bull elephants stay with the herd only till the young reach puberty. Then they’re on their own, coming back only for mating purposes. Those bastards! (Excuse my French)


I was looking forward to visiting Simonstown not only to check out the Jackass Penguins in Boulders Beach but likewise to visit Jubilee Square. Ever heard the story of “Just Nuisance”? That’s the name of the Great Dane who “served” in the Royal Navy back in the 1940s.

 

 

Errrr, do I have your attention now? The story certainly got my attention. You see, Just Nuisance is one very popular and well-loved dog who has become part of the town’s history. Story goes that sailors in the town’s naval station regularly fed this Great Dane who has acquired a taste for fries, beer and other drinkers’ crumbs. When these sailors went for R & R in Capetown, the spoiled canine would follow them, hopping on trains even. For sure, this dog felt he “belonged” to the Royal Navy and counted many sailor friends. So loved was he that a bronze statue in Jubilee Square was made in his honor.

 

 

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Penguin Colony at Boulders Beach. Simonstown. South Africa.

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Jackass Penguins or African Penguins? (Photo Credits to E. Ong)

The Penguins. Not The Dog.

 

But wait. We’re talking about the Penguins here. These tuxedo-ed residents of Boulders Beach have been here for a while. There was an entire colony of these African Penguins just a few meters from Seaforth Restaurant where we had lunch. An entire colony! There they were going about their business, unmindful of us camwhoring tourists. There were signs warning visitors from feeding nor touching them. Good thing they built a boardwalk where we can actually “follow” them, watch them, photograph them, observe them. These look like “happy birds” not “angry birds” who wouldn’t hesitate to interact with humans swimming in the nearby waters. We found some nesting, with those cute-sy “holes” in the sandy beach. Others busily playing by the shore. I can imagine them rolling on beach towels laid out by beach swimmers on some summer days. Happy Feet!

 

 

 

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Penguins Having A Party! (Photo Credits: E. Ong)

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Play Time for these African Penguins!

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African Penguins in Boulders Beach. Some on the boulders. Others a-swimming!

 

 

Check out this video of these charming birds. Just a glimpse of Happy Feet in this penguin colony.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBpz4gZpuvM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

 

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That’s the Boardwalk around the Penguin Colony in Boulders Beach

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I wonder what these 2 Jackass Penguins Are Saying To Each Other


Leaving Capetown is an ordeal. It’s heartbreaking to leave a place as lovely and postcard-pretty as Capetown. The sea and mountain sceneries are in perfect harmony here. Whether you are facing the Atlantic or the Indian Ocean, you will be dazzled by these magnificent backgrounds. The coves, where sailboats blow across the waters like toys, pulled by their colorful sails, can render the romantically-challenged quite desperate. Ahem. I can’t count the number of times I listened to the surf of the ocean and heaved a deep sigh in this lovely South African city.

 

 

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There is much to do in Cape Town. Like revisiting all those places we’ve seen. Its charm drives you to do that.

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The sound of the Ocean lulls one to an almost melancholy state. The surge and the spray just in time to wake you from that mindless state.

 

 

Off to the farm, the caves, the ranch we go. But first, some serious business. LUNCH. And what perfect pitstop. The R62 Deli in Joubert-Tradauw Wine Estate makes your day. Place is so intimate it makes you feel like you dropped in on your best friend’s for some home-cooked meal. As with many perfect meals, lunch here is simply made with the simplest, freshest ingredients. It leaves just enough room for everyone to indulge in their wines, be it rosé, Sauvignon or shyrah.

 

 

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I almost grew tired spotting and snapping shots of the rainbow.

The resident mascot of Joubert Tradauw Wine Estate’s R62 Deli

 

 

The bean soup reminded me of my best Hungarian goulash somewhere in Eastern Europe, and the salads couldn’t be more Mediterranean. I can stop there, maybe even skip the dessert (a rare occasion) and linger around the wine estate on this pleasantly cool day. The very playful dog (Jacquie?) made everyone feel at home. I bet he’d tag along for a stroll. We also sneaked in and checked the small kitchen where more bean soups stewed, fresh arugulas and fruits ready to compose a salad, a chocolate cake freshly-baked and ready to be sliced.

 

 

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Freshly-harvested greens and fruits. Straight from the farm. And their wines go well with the Klein Karoo tapas.

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I want to remember every detail through an old sepia-colored filter. Call me romantic. Or romantically-challenged? But this tiny place is oozing with charm that even an ordinary brew of coffee would likely taste better.  But wait, hand me that French Chocolate Cake! 

 

 

French Chocolate Cake!

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At the end of this dining area is the small Mediterranean-style farm kitchen which is open for everyone to step in to check what’s cooking!

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I can drink gallons of coffee or tea here.


Been here more than a week and sampled quite a variety of South African delicacies. What stands out though was the oyster and champagne for breakfast we had in Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa. By itself, the breakfasts served here are alright even without the champagne and oysters. But there you go. Luxury. They’re few and far between — ahem — so, why not? Let those flutes clink to good health and a safe journey. Indulge. What a treat!

 

 

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The succulent oysters for breakfast at Twelve Apostles Hotel & Spa

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Kudu pies, vegetable salads, boerewors and koeksisters.

 

 

Then there are all those biltongs and pies made with minced meat. Not your ordinary minced meat though. I’ve tried kudu and springbok meat, both from the antelope family. Didn’t really like the boerewors sausages nor the very sweet koeksisters dessert, but I do like ostrich meat now and the fresh salads – both vegetables and fruits, freshly harvested from the farm – served us in Berluda Farmhouse and R62 Deli in Joubert-Tradauw Wine Estate. I was so looking forward to lunch at the Two Oceans Restaurant at Cape Point on Day 1 in Capetown but a change of plans landed us in Seaforth in Boulders Beach  instead. View is perfect but lunch could have been better. Well, no big problem a glass of Castle beer won’t cure.

 

 

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For all the treats on the table, I enjoyed the roasted sweet potatoes (kamote) the most. Those, plus the veg bredie and fruits.

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R62 Deli deserves a separate blog. Watch this page! Love their green and fruit salads!

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A seafood platter from Seaforth Restaurant in Boulders Beach, just a skip and a hop from the penguins.

 

 

And speaking of beers, Mitchell’s is perfect when you dine at Tapas and Oysters in Thesen Island. The coastal oysters are so succulent that one will most certainly ask for more than the “tasting” portion. Tapas consisted of fresh calamari, samosas, shrimps, fries, and an assortment of sauces and dippings. And what better way to cap this lunch but with a stroll along Knysna Quay and a coffee and lemon meringue at Coffee Connection.

 

 

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Tapas and Oysters live up to its reputation. No pretensions, no frills. Just honest to goodness good and fresh seafood!

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Quiche or Bobotie? Ostrich steak or fillet? Springbok is deer or antelope? Doesn’t matter what it’s called so long as it’s good only dear Rosie can make them!

 

 

You can’t beat the views at the very exclusive Plettenberg Hotel and Spa. Dining al fresco here is quite an experience. The seafood buffet could have been more fresh though. For someone who loves oysters and shrimps, it was surprising to find myself yearning to get back to Tapas and Oysters for a beer and cowboy lunch.

 

 

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Unbeatable views at Plettenberg Hotel and Spa!

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Coffee and Lemon Meringue Pie at Coffee Connection in Knysna Quay. FTW!

 

 

Leaving the cosmopolitan life and into the bush, the Entabeni experience was really more than just the safari. A bush dinner at 9Celsius? Even the constant drum beating and African music can’t keep me warm enough. Nor the camp fires and the red wine. But I love it! Steaks couldn’t have been more rare. And it helps that it’s dark to miss the steak juice (aka blood) oozing out of the carving. There were more sausages and others say the chicken was good. Since I missed the superb steak served in Hyatt Regency Oubaii Hotel in George the night before, I’m going rare tonight! And in the bush!

 

 

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Aaaaah. Carnivores…… let us celebrate!

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How do you want your eggs?

 

 

And if you think I can’t have a hearty breakfast after that rare steak dinner the night before, you’re dead wrong. We’re in Africa, baby! On to our safari on full stomachs! 🙂


Ready for the farm? This city girl surprisingly made it through a very wet 2-night stay in an ostrich farm run by a septuagenarian by the name of Rosie and her charming family.

 

 

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It’s the farmhouse transport system, ei?

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Coming here is like coming home. Like a home in the range.

 

Home, home on the range,

Where the deer and the antelope play;

Where seldom is heard a discouraging word

And the skies are not cloudy all day.

 

But the skies were cloudy. It rained the couple of days we were here. Just the same, we felt so at home especially when Rosie takes charge and refuses to serve dinner till everyone is present. Rosie cooks a mean feast. Her springbok pie with its drippings for gravy poured over steaming rice is “to die for”. I had 2 servings and made sure I cleaned out my plate lest Rosie calls my attention. Soooo….. Not a morsel of food left on my plate!

 

 

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Springbok Pie. Spring = jump. Bok = antelope or goat.

 

What’s a springbok? Spring means “jump” and “bok” means antelope or goat. It’s a brown and white gazelle from the south and southwestern part of South Africa. Is it a deer or an antelope? Honestly, I don’t know. But here’s how it looks before Rosie decided to make it our dinner.

 

 

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Springbok. Before it became dinner 😦

 

 

And here’s more. Rosie proudly announced that our dinner was hunted by her young pre-teen grandson, Jan Henrich. Jan gladly though shyly posed for photos with some of us appreciative diners. And as always, Rosie did her rounds to make sure we are eating well. Imagine your grandma fussing over your dinner, if you will. With the fireplace well-stocked with logs to burn, we lingered over our coffee and desserts. Swell…..

 

 

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Jan Henrich and his granny, Rosie.

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Dessert!

 

 

As Berluda Farmhouse is an ostrich farm, we had ostrich pâtés as well as ostrich steaks. You can say I’m a convert now. It helps that I’m not particularly fond of this bird, so I can have my guilt-free dinners. Rosie kept the kitchen staff real busy even when the farmhouse experienced a power failure. For a while then, I worried what she’d serve for dinner. Her quiché didn’t disappoint. Simple meals made with exotic meats and freshly-harvested greens and fruits never disappoint. Same goes for the homemade pâtés and marmalades.

 

 

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Mashed guava, kiwi and some peaches.

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Rosie’s Savoury Quiche!

 

 

I would love to post more food photos but it wouldn’t be fair to the resident ostriches, would it? But I’m not about to apologize that this turned out to be a food blog. I’m drooling as I write. Mi apologia.

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Was Never Fond of These Birds. But I love their MEAT! And yes, I won’t mind a bag made of ostrich leather.

 

 

And here’s what’s left of that ostrich 😉 Y.U.M.

 

 

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Ostrich Steak for dinner.