Philippine Travels | lifeisacelebration

Category: Philippine Travels

Awestruck. Starstruck. Beachstruck.

January 10, 2013

It was nearly sunset when we reached El Nido. But the last half hour driving before reaching our destination, we have been awestruck by the looming limestone cliffs jutting out from Bacuit Bay. It was a good intro to what lay at the end of this butt-numbing road trip. The boats are back from their rounds, as the generators roar to a hum and establishments lining the shore start switching on their lights.

Bacuit Bay with its many limestock cliffs jutting out of the waters.

The shoreline is not as long as that in Boracay, but has the same white sandy shore.

The long drive didn’t dampen our spirit. But the power failures nearly did. City people like us felt threatened whenever the power was turned off and the generators failed to switch on soon after. The “gap” gave us anxiety attacks. We had mixed emotions listening to the murmurs of the sea as the waves came rushing to shore, and the erratic hums of the gas-fed generators. We braced ourselves for the worst just as we observed there weren’t too many local tourists in El Nido. Perhaps many cancelled their holidays because of the typhoon. The foreign visitors seem to have been long time guests, completely familiar with El Nido “living conditions”. We hardly heard a complaint whenever the power shuts off, even when the “gap” stretches to more than half an hour. By nightfall, I took out my bottle of sleeping pills and popped one into my mouth. I didn’t wish to take any chances. It would be a full day of island-hopping the day after and sleep-deprived that I already was, I needed the energy for the next day’s adventure.

Vista at 5 am. The lights lining the shore reflected off the waters of Bacuit Bay.

By 6am, the entire shoreline is bathed in sunlight. From our beach cottages, we are treated to this view 24/7.

Because I slept extraordinarily early, I was up even before sunrise. From our beach cottage, I watched the lights lining the shore till it was bright and boatmen got ready to do their island tours. The hotel restaurant didn’t open till past 7 am. I was getting grumpier by the minute, missing my favorite brew. I watched men, women and dogs frolicking by the shore. These views are the types that would make me dawdle over my coffee. Except that there was no coffee. 😦

Our teenage girl is ready to island hop, snorkel, swim and laze under the sun.

And our pre-teen boy is ready too!

By half past 8, we were boarding our small boat to do Tours A and B. That’s right, we are doing both in a single day. We expected to be hopping from island to island the entire day while there was still light! It wouldn’t allow us the luxury to linger in each island, but it would save us quite a bit by combining the 2 tours covering some 10 islands. The idea was we’d only get off in a few islands and just sightsee the rest. For 900 pesos (about US$22) for Tours A and B, we were happy.

10 islands to cover under Tours A and B. Our favorites are Miniloc Island’s Small and Big Lagoons, Shimizu, Entalula and Snake Island.

It’s waist deep getting into that small opening to the Small Lagoon. Then it gets deeper.

We enjoyed the 1st island most of all. Small Lagoon of Miniloc Island would have taken up our entire morning until we reminded ourselves there were still 9 or so islands to cover. The Big Lagoon was awesome too but quite crowded with people and sea urchins! In Shimizu and Entalula Islands, the kids enjoyed the beach and engaged in fish feeding. The waves were fierce too as we struggled against the current while feeding the fish. Lunch was served in Entalula Island, where we enjoyed a simple meal of barbecued chicken, grilled squid and steamed vegetables.

Sea Urchins in Miniloc Island’s Big Lagoon.

Aaaahhhh……. El Nido Islands will certainly charm you!

Low tide in the Big Lagoon?

Busy feeding the fish!

By the time we we were sailing towards Snake Island, the waters became choppy. We could see the swells and felt the rolling waves off Bacuit Bay and in our minds, crossed off some islands in our itinerary. The sandbar we found connected 2 islands, one of which must be Snake Island. There must be people residing here as we found a dog crossing the sandbar, oblivious to the tourists descending on their tiny paradise.

Just passing through…………

Snake Island’s Resident Canine

As we sailed over the rolling waves, we momentarily longed to head back to Entalula or Shimizu Island to simply enjoy the beach and feed the fish. But there was Cudugnon Cave to explore. Not much of an adventure, really, but there was this thrill of squeezing one’s self through a hole before emerging in this small atrium inside the cave. So…. alright, maybe the kids would like it.

Cudognon Cave

I can sip coffee and read a book here to while away the afternoon.

The next cave was strictly for strong swimmers. You swim towards the mouth of Cathedral Cave and pray those swells won’t lift you towards the rocks and against the corals….. Or away in open sea! We passed it of course and here began our “sightseeing”. No more stops. We were all eager to get back. The boatmen pointed out and sailed nearer the islands but without stopping to let us off.

Cathedral Cave. Looks massive!

You have to be a strong swimmer to swim against the current towards the mouth of Cathedral Cave.

If you ask me, one need not check out each and very island. We didn’t want to do that just to keep count. Tours A and B offer many islands but I would have been happy with just 5. I wouldn’t miss the Small and Big Lagoons of Miniloc Island, the fish feeding and beach bumming in Shimizu and Entalula Islands, and walking on the sandbar in Snake Island. Sure, you may want to get off and wait for the sunset in Seven Commandos Beach. Perhaps with bottles of beer and some pica picas. But I wouldn’t want to be sailing in the dark after sunset even if I were confident about my swimming. As we passed Seven Commandos and viewed Helicopter Island not too far away, we felt secure that we were near our beach cottages already. We had enough adventures for the day. No need to be “thorough”…… Life is a beach, after all. By the time the island is blanketed by night, it’s time for some stargazing!

By 5 pm, we were rushing to get back to base.

Spotting Helicopter Island, we knew our beach cottages are somewhere off the bend.

Back to the base now. One of our beach cottages is right up front , with this view!

Tags: El Nido, El Nido Islands, Island Hopping in El Nido, Palawan, Philippines, Tour A, Tour B

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Chasing A Typhoon in Puerto Princesa?

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 5 Comments

A typhoon hit Palawan the day before our arrival. The same typhoon was expected to move out of the province late afternoon of our arrival. And so with fingers and toes crossed, our group of 9 pax trooped to the airport ready to be crushed. All those weeks of planning for this family vacation wasted? Not so for this group of intrepid travelers.

On the airport bus, we were asked to get off and wait for further announcements. After over an hour, we boarded the bus to the plane, and flew out of Manila. Just a 2 hour delay.

Our flight out of Manila was delayed by 2 hours but we had a good flight and landed safely in Puerto Princesa. The Underground River Tour was cancelled though so we decided to rebook on the day of our departure instead. This was the wisest decision we ever made. There was time to drive north to El Nido, hop around the many islands, drive to the twin beaches of Nacpan and Calitang and then drive back to Puerto Princesa early morning of the day of our return flight to Manila.

This is Buenavista where we made a brief stop to take photos before reaching Sabang Port.

This is Sabang Port. Those small boats literally “flew” over the waves and swells of West Philippine Sea aka South China Sea.

Just 2 stopovers on the day we were to fly out of Puerto Princesa. A pee-stop in Buenavista, then on to Sabang Port where we took the boat to Saint Paul Subterranean Park. Not my first time, but it is for my family and some friends making up our contingent of 9 pax. West Philippine Sea was far from calm, but we braved the short boat ride. Mercifully, the monkeys and monitor lizards “guarding” the boardwalk in the park were tame and didn’t add to our anxieties.

This monkey guarded the entrance to the Underground River Tour.

The Boardwalk towards the mouth of the Underground River. Watch out for monkeys and monitor lizards.

I purposely didn’t tell my family how the Boatmen cum Tour Guides conduct the Underground River Tour. The “spiel” on the rock formations inside the cave is a carefully crafted one. Tinged with witty humor, it was no surprise that our group thoroughly enjoyed the hilarious narration on the stalactites, stalagmites and the colony of bats inside while doing the slightly more than a kilometer boat ride. The entire length is not open to the public, but the kilometer boat ride is enough for the slightly over an hour’s tour. Hailed as one of the 7 New Wonders of the World, my family and friends were only too happy to have experienced this adventure and visited this heritage site which renders every Filipino proud.

All set and ready to enter the Saint Paul Subterranean Underground River.

An interior shot showing another boat of tourists with our light focused on some rock formation.

The references to Sharon Stone, a variety of fruits and vegetables, animals and holy images were most interesting. Amazing how natural forces like water and wind shaped these rock formations to resemble such. As we sailed out of the cave, we met other boats filled with tourists sailing in. Our guide remarked we were 10 coming in, and now number 9 going out, with a request for the next boat to pick up our missing companion. I’m sure it’s part of the script. I’ve heard that spiel before, yet I laughed just as hard like I heard it for the first time. 🙂

Inside the Cave. And yes, Martin, this is right inside that limestone mountain you saw outside!

The Holy Trinity.

Is it a coconut husk?

Towards the exit.

Tags: Heritage Site, Palawan, Puerto Princesa, St. Paul Subterranean Park, Underground River, UNESCO Site

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KA INATÔ : A New Food Find in Puerto Princesa

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 5 Comments

January 9, 2013

Ka Inatô was a surprise waiting for us. It wasn’t planned, but Ka Lui was closed on the day we arrived in Puerto Princesa City. Our 3rd disappointment after a flight delay of 2 hours and a cancelled Underground River Tour. Our van driver suggested lunch here before our northbound trip to El Nido. Well along the way, Ka Inatô is in Rizal Street just as you approach the exit out of the city center.

Ka Inato along Rizal Street just as you approach the exit out of Puerto Princesa City.

Interesting wooden sculptures. Very artsy.

I’ve read somewhere that Ka Lui partly owns Ka Inatô. If true, it explains the “KA” in the name, the ambience and the food quality. It’s unconfirmed, but let’s just say I wouldn’t be surprised. I wanted my family to experience dining in Ka Luí but the place was closed. So was Kinabuch’s. My apprehension over Ka Inatô was completely wiped out upon seeing the place. Very charming. Very artsy.

Open air. The wind chimes add to the rural, carefree ambience. I love how this resto was laid out. Simple decor but each item placed somewhere with careful thought.

This corner reminds me of a rural sari sari store. The paintings are of children exuding innocence and fun.

The “open air” atmosphere added to the ambience. The wooden sculptures, paintings and hanging chimes all combined to give a local flavor. We were early for lunch so it was not a problem choosing a table. Judging by the menu, the place caters to all clientele. Pinoys would love the local cuisine. As well as the seafood dishes. Then there are pasta dishes for the foreigners …. and for the teenager in our group. Fruit shakes and frothy iced teas complete the deal.

Somehow, I feel like I’m in some gallery somewhere in Angono, the art capital of the Philippines.

Service quality was likewise commendable. The service crew was most attentive despite our indecisiveness over what to order. Bless the children in our group who knew exactly what they wanted to eat while the adults agonized over what to order.

Love the colors and the layout of this resto!

Everywhere you look, there would always be a piece of art inviting a lingering look.

Art surrounded us while we waited for our lunch. Somehow, I felt I was in some gallery in Angono, Rizal. There were enough art items inviting our attention. And the food didn’t disappoint. LUNCH!

Freshly-grilled stuffed squid, shrimps in some savory sauce, steamed veggies wrapped in banana leaves, grilled fish with vegetable sidings. Yummy lunch!

This is their signature dish. Chicken Inasal to many. Inato here in Palawan.

The Pasta dish didn’t disappoint too!

Ka Inatô’s signature dishes include their local inasal (called inatô) or grilled chicken. But we won’t be deprived our seafood favorites and guilt-diffusers like steamed veggies. The kids ordered their favorite shakes and iced tea. I have to say that food presentation pleased the senses. Simple. Not exactly a cut above the rest, but for the price tags, I’ve got to say Ka Inatô knows how to please their guests.

Fruit Shakes and Frothy Iced Teas!

Cheap! Value for Money, indeed. But we should have ordered the other signature dish….Sinuglaw. Combination Sinugba (grilled) and Kinilaw (local ceviche)

And there’s more at very low prices. There’s a meal for every budget !

By the time we were done with lunch, we were all smiling in content. Notwithstanding the long drive, we were all raring to get into the van, all psyched and longing for a long afternoon nap. Aaaaahhh, never underestimate the power of a good meal. Uncomplainingly, the children claimed their seats in the van and snored away. 🙂

Tags: food porn, Food Trip, Ka INATÔ, Palawan, Puerto Princesa

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WORDPRESS FIREWORKS IN 2012

Filed under: Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 14 Comments

January 2, 2013

Aside from “Travel Blog“, I also maintain a “personal blog” site in WordPress. Lifeisacelebration has surpassed the 100,000 views in 2012 even if I dare not call it a travel blog. Lifeisacelebration chronicles my travels, my food adventures, and…… my musings and ramblings. There is more “writing” in “TravelBlog” while I simply just blah-blah’ed my way through wordpress. These 2 sites are my stress-busters. Truly, writing provides solace. I’m a writer, not in the professional sense, but I simply write a lot. I write when I’m overflowing with joy. I write when struggling out of affliction.

Photo Credit: WordPress

Another Photo from WordPress

I found it interesting that my most viewed blogs involved domestic destinations I visited even before 2012. I guess readers want to read Filipinos writing about the Philippines. And found these Philippine travel blogs more interesting than my 2012 trips to Spain, South Africa and Zambia. I was a prolific writer while living in Madrid. Over 40 blogs in nearly 3 months. I struck off African Safari from my bucket list and learned how awfully and totally wrong I was about Zambia. Yet….. Readers chose to read more my Ilocos posts — especially the one on Grandpa’s Inn in Vigan, Ilocos Sur — and that most controversial blog about a “collection of heritage houses and structures” in Bagac, Bataan.

Grandpa’s Inn in Vigan, Ilocos Sur. Just a few steps from Calle Crisologo and Syquia Mansion.

Love those Calesa Beds!

I lament that our government does not take heritage preservation more seriously and consequently, take on the responsibility of funding restoration and preservation work. Funding is really, really essential. As I wrote in reply to a comment on my blog on “Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar” .

“I really hope something’s done about how best to preserve historical treasures. Either via legislation or a simple act of funding to take care of restoration work. It isn’t cheap and I can only sympathize with the owners that they’re unable to preserve the places for fellow Filipinos like you and I to appreciate. Mockery or not, money/funding is essential. That’s WHAT we should figure out to do so these owners don’t sell out to the likes of Acuzar.

We can rant all we want, but I’m too old for any hostility. We all love the same country. Cheers!”

Las Casas de Filipinas de Acuzar. Taken way before the place opened to the public.

Photo Credit: Romy Ramirez.

A Collector’s Dream, indeed!

Two of my blogs attracted controversy. Well, sort of, judging by the “hits” registered. The other blog is about the whale sharks of Donsol, Sorsogon. Some readers may have “generalized” ALL whale shark-watching adventure as contrary to animal and wildlife care and preservation. I was “harassed” by some wildlife conservation enthusiasts for even blogging about this. True, the one in Oslob, Cebu demands attention and outright condemnation, but this one in Donsol is way different and altogether more responsible! Even WWF wrote a piece about it.

That’s Randy, our Butanding Whisperer in Donsol, Sorsogon.

Photo from WordPress. Only my Philippine blogs topped the list!

Thus, I want to do more Philippine destinations this year. I have yet to trek Mount Pinatubo and brave the boat ride in the Batanes Islands. I must confess though that I hardly write for my readers. Please do not take offense. I honestly write to express myself, much like writing in one’s diary. That explains why I hardly give directions and expense accounts, etc in my blogs. When I give details on directions, history and other specifics, I confess it is more to store some data lest I forget how I got somewhere, what places I visited, what foods I enjoyed and what historical footnotes I wish to remember. But that is not to say I am not flattered by the stats and more importantly by the comments you took time to send. Being read by others from 142 countries give you a “high” and I appreciate them all. For all these, i only have this to say. Thank you.

Not enough views, really. But hey, I wasn’t expecting this. Salamat!

Alright. I’m no Jessica Parker. Nor a Julia Roberts. I don’t really agonize over my blogs. Once I get started, I just simply write away. Writing from the heart is like writing on one’s diary. Something I’ve been doing since I learned how to write! At the time, I would just DRAW on the diaries my mom gifted me with.

Tags: Blog Stats, Fireworks, Statistics, Wordpress

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MY YEAR-ENDER PHLOG (A Photoblog of My Life in 2012)

Filed under: Africa, Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Spain, Travel, travels — 2 Comments

December 30, 2012

It’s the last day of the year. In less than 24 hours, it’ll be 2013. And I have yet to firm up my travel plans this coming year. Been putting it off for sometime. For once, I’ve either run out of ideas or I have grown so confused on what I want to do the year I turn senior. So, I’d give it a rest. And for the moment, I’m looking back on how my travel calendar went this 2012. The photos show what kept me “busy”.

The Park Near Fort San Pedro in Cebu City

3 hours on the road, but no luck with tuki sightings in Oslob, Cebu

Just before I left for Madrid in February, I made a quick trip to Cebu. No luck with tuki sightings (whale sharks) in Oslob, so we instead toured the towns of Boljoon, Dalaguete, Carcar in Southern Cebu. In Madrid, I helped a niece set up house. Stayed nearly 3 months, and blogged every other day! Walked the streets of Madrid every single day. Visited way too many churches and museums. Lucky to be in all the right places to witness Holy Week Processions especially in Sevilla and Cordoba. Went on random day trips to Toledo, Avila, Segovia, Alcala de Henares, Valencia, El Escorial, Valle de Los Caidos, Aranjuez via car, bus and trains and planned a few weekend get-aways to Andalusia and Barcelona. In between furniture shopping, palenque trips and household chores, I was busy!

Cloudy Day in Parque del Retiro in Madrid

Day Trip To Cochinillo Country in Segovia. And Not Just Once.

Good Friday in Cordoba. Some religious procession!

Toledo, Valencia, Aranjuez, Alcala de Henares, Segovia, Avila, El Escorial, Valle de los Caidos, Barcelona, Segovia, Cordoba. Then there’s Plaza de Toros, Plaza Mayor, Almudena Church, Palacio Real, Retiro Park, Puerta del Sol, the Museos of Prado, Reina Sofia, Morolla, Thyssen, Riza’s Favorite Haunts, Senado, Plaza de Cibeles, etc just around Madrid.

Photo Credit: Sarah. All my photos of this great monument were epic failures. Thank you, Sarah.

Spain was many things to me. I was alone often and my human interaction was limited to just a few hours a day. When I got back to Manila, I missed the daily walks and the solitude so much that I started on many solo trips to Chinatown, Intramuros, University of Santo Tomas, Batangas, Cavite, Pampanga, Bulacan, as well as trips to the National Museum, Metropolitan Museum and Ayala Museum.

The lovely Betis Church in Guagua, Pampanga

University of Santo Tomas. Oldest in Philippines. Oldest in Asia.

Before long, I left again. This time, to South Africa and Zambia. Cape Town and the rest of the Western Cape of South Africa did not disappoint. Well, except for the botched cable car ride to Table Mountain and whale-watching adventure. The weather did not cooperate, but luck was on us searching for the Big 5 and other beasts. Yes, the trip highlight was the African Safari. But I must say Victoria Falls in Zambia was such a delightful surprise!

In the kingdom where lions are kings, the males are def prettier than the mane-less females. Entabeni Park.

And if there is a Big 5 of the Safari — elephants, rhinos, lions, leopards and cape buffalos, the GIRAFFE ranks high up there among the Lovely 5.

The Wildebeests of Entabeni Park. Just before sunset of the 2nd safari day, one of these served as early dinner for them lions. 😦

We kept still and quiet as this lone rhino walked ever so slowly, and passed the side of our safari jeep. (Look Ma, no protective bars!)

We had the best hotel in Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa in Cape Town. Champagne and Oysters for breakfasts? Who’s complaining?

Our Biggest Surprise : Victoria Falls in Livingstone, Zambia. Double Rainbows were so uncommon!

In Zambia, it is a must to take that 25 minute helicopter flight if only for this vista! Zimbabwe on your left. Zambia on the right. That bridge spans both countries.

The African adventures fired me up so much I needed to do more than the usual day trips once I got home. My niece and I planned on a Mount Pinatubo trekking adventure but ended up spending a long weekend in Sagada instead. Not bad, especially in terms of many “firsts”.

Spelunking in Sumaguing Cave? At my age?

Roadtrip from Sagada through Bontoc to La Trinindad Valley

A few more day trips and …… a cemetery tour. And that was it for me in 2012. I should be heading back to Madrid, likely in 2 separate trips as there’s the May election and a grandson’s March graduation. I also have Myanmar, Laos and Hanoi in my mind. There’s a few more, but I will likely confuse myself even more. The only trip “fixed” for now is autumn and Christmas in Madrid in 2013. Before then, who knows where my feet will take me?

Scene from Club Balai Isabel in Talisay, Batangas. Taal lake and volcano in the background.

Corregidor Island Tour for some history lessons. A 1 hour ferry ride back and forth from the Sun Cruise Terminal in CCP Complex.

Tags: Phlog, photoblog, Travel, travels, yearend journal

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MANILA PENINSULA: An Urban Get-Away

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Food Trip, Philippine Travels — 4 Comments

December 22, 2012

It’s nearly Christmas. And it turns out many urbanites had the same idea for this weekend. With traffic jams in nearly every corner within the metropolis, many Makati residents dared not venture out of the city for a weekend getaway. What’s next best then? A Staycation in Manila Peninsula!

There was a line of urbanites checking in. Can’t blame them. The Pen has always been a place “to chill” within the city. You save a lot on fuel (and time!) staying here. The pool is certainly not of Olympic proportions, but around this time of the year, the poolside is such a pleasant place to read your book, have a drink, and of course to swim. The same pool area and garden can be viewed from 2 of Pen’s dining areas : Spices and Escolta.

While the kids swim, there’s the option to check out the gym or the spa. Or both. This weekend, both are busy. So with the poolside bar. The cool breeze abruptly halted any prolonged stay in the pool. So out of the pool and back to the room. But not without passing the lovely lobby festooned with Christmas decor and a giant Christmas tree. As the band played Christmas carols, I was tempted to stay and order a mango daiquiri. The tea buffet was tempting too. 🙂

I remember bringing my “elves” here when they were toddlers. It was their “park” — only cooler (air conditioned), kid-safer (the 2nd floor area where the band plays is carpeted), and tops in sounds. Always, music from the lobby entertains. And with Christmas in the air, who doesn’t love listening to Christmas carols?

Tags: Makati Staycation, Manila Pen, Manila Peninsula, Peninsula Weekend, Staycation

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Strange Conversations in Sagada

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 4 Comments

December 12, 2012

It was a long weekend. And since I’ve long wished to visit Sagada, my niece arranged everything for this trip. Deprived of many winks, I wasn’t in the best of moods when we made our breakfast stop.

Me: Chow King? Chow King for breakfast?
Driver: The group in the 2nd van wants a Chinese breakfast.
Me: Hmmmm. I’m walking to the corner where there’s a Jollibee. (*not smiling*)

Me: Coffee and Hamdesal for me. Where are the newspapers?
Jollibee Girl: *no reaction*
Me: Bakit ayaw mo sumagot? (Why won’t you answer?) *grumpy now*

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Niece takes over, and I move to take a seat and a table for us. As it turned out, no hamdesal for me. The girl at the counter took my order as another breakfast rice meal. Hungry, I had no energy to insist on my first order. *looking defeated*

Mood Changer: First Sight of Banaue Rice Terraces

Banaue Rice Terraces

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Me (in SUMAGUING Cave): Paano katagal ito? (How long will this take?)
Cave Guide: 1 1/2 hours. Pero sa inyo, baka 2 1/2 hours. (In your case, maybe 2 1/2 hours)

Mood Changer (looking at companions): Will you take my photos, please?

Spelunking in Sumaguing Cave. DAW. :))

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Venue: Log Cabin (arrived 1 hour early for 7pm buffet dinner)

Me: I’m an hour early for my dinner reservation. Can I sit by the bar while sipping a glass of wine?
Wait Staff (Girl): No wine by the glass. You must order 1 bottle.

—- The wait staff (Boy) squeezed himself behind the bar and snagged his shirt.—–

Wait Staff (Boy): OMG. (Some expletives…. then makes out like he’s about to cry)
Me (*feeling sorry*): Sayang. It’s a nice shirt, but you can stitch it up.
Wait Staff (Boy): It’s Chanel. Very expensive. (Slips out, comes back in a new shirt)
Me: That’s another nice shirt.
Wait Staff (Boy): It’s another Chanel.

Wait Staff (Boy): Your dinner table is outside. You can sit by the bonfire meanwhile.
Me: I want a table inside. Too cold outside.

Later…….

Wait Staff (Girl): I got you a table inside. Follow me. (They set up a table INSIDE 1 of the rooms)
Me: It’s a small table. We’re 7 pax.
Wait Staff (Girl): Nothing I can do. You made late reservations.
Me: That’s odd. We were told days before of our confirmed reservations.
Wait Staff (Girl): Well, I don’t handle reservations here. Blah Blah Blah

Later……… A group of 4 complaining ladies were also brought inside the room. Guess what, they had ANOTHER table set up good for 4, while 7 of us squeezed ourselves around a table good for 5.

Mood Changer: I stuffed my plate with food from the buffet. (The spread was a disappointment, but that’s another story. I got mostly veggies as they “rationed” the carving. When we went for seconds, there was none left. They offer you PANCIT instead )

They set up a SMALL table good for 5 pax (we were 7) INSIDE one of the bedrooms. When we said the table’s too small, they ho-hummed us. Later, they set up ANOTHER table for 4 complaining ladies. So there was ANOTHER table!

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On the short hike up to Kiltepan Peak to view the sunrise, the place was a-buzz with youngsters oozing with morning energy as compared to my “low-batt” state. As mentioned in my earlier blog, a lady fiscal went berserk so early in the morn. Confronting a driver who allegedly told her to move to the side of the dirt road, she went a-cussing and a-cursing. Not exactly the kind of language welcomed by early-risers out to enjoy a Kiltepan Sunrise.

Me: Who is that angry lady?
One Youngster: Tita (Aunt)….. Must be AMALAYER.
Me: Who?
Another Youngster: Not AMALAYER. Sounds like AMA-FISCAL.

Then, the sky brightened as the sun peeps out. There was thunderous applause, enough to drown out the monologue started by AMA-FISCAL..

Mood Changer: Laughter. That’s enough, no videotaping allowed. We laughed, we clapped, we enjoyed our Kiltepan Sunrise.

Crowd waiting for Kiltepan Sunrise

Tags: Mountain Province, Philippines, Sagada

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AMALAYER Nearly Ruined Our Kiltepan Sunrise

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

December 11, 2012

I’m a liar. AMALAYER. Of late, this has been a not so private joke among Filipinos especially those from the city traversed by MRT and LRT. The videotaped monologue from this young lady nearly screaming at the top of her lungs versus a lady guard caught the attention of not a few urbanites. Perhaps she woke up on the wrong side of the bed. Maybe she’s going through something. Definitely the guy who videotaped the scene shouldn’t have. Well, that’s my take on the matter. But that is not to condone all that verbal abuse. as what happened here in Kiltepan Peak.

Thank you Rex for this lovely photo!

Even Siri didn’t fail. Methinks. I can still feel the breeze.

After that backbreaking overnighter ride to Sagada and that very torturous (but rewarding) spelunking episode at SUMAGUING Cave on the very day of arrival, we pulled ourselves out of bed at 4:30 am to be up and ready for the Kiltepan Sunrise. Still sleepy on the van ride, we missed the bend, backed up and drove on dirt road all the way to where many vans and cars were already parked. We knew there was quite a crowd before us judging by the noise of early morning chatter as we sniffed the morning air.

The Crowd @Kiltepan Peak.

Pleasure in Tranquility!

But wait. It wasn’t just senseless morning chatter we were hearing. Someone was cursing and cussing. So early in the morning!

Foolish woman I am. Should have reminded myself to bend like the grass, to welcome whichever way the wind blows, to simply observe, perhaps with a grin that couldn’t be wiped off my face, to accept but without conforming. But I couldn’t help remarking (just to my companions) that early risers like us don’t deserve this eardrum-stinging “AMALAYER” language directed at one of the drivers from this lady fiscal. How can this lady even brag she’s a lady fiscal with the power to put her adversary behind bars? Tsk. Tsk. One couldn’t help eavesdropping. One and all were all hostages to this drama. The unwanted scenario quickened my pulse; blood surging through my face. Creating reddish splotches. Unbidden. Good thing it was still dark. I felt I’d rather put my head on the chopping block than listen to all the cussing.

Another lovely shot, Rex.

Why do i get a feeling some vampire lurks behind those pine trees? Photo Credits: Rex.

I wondered apprehensively and waited patiently for what’s to happen next. I have to commend the crowd of youngsters for restraining themselves, suffering like me throughout that offensive monologue. And then the sky slightly opened up. And the crowd cheered! The lady fiscal mercifully shut up. As the sun rises, the moon fades. Coffee mugs a-ready and we were all set for some peace and quiet. Finally. And beauty. Nature never fails.

Caught. By. Rex.

Shaky Hands. Moon Fading.

I sniffed as the drama ended. Looked behind me as I caught the last image of a fading moon. Before me, the sun threatened to brighten a day which didn’t start very well. I inched closer for a shot. No DLSR nor my trusted G12 with me. Just Siri, my iPhone cam.

The better shots displayed above were taken by my young friend Rex of Spaceman T-Rex. Thank you, Rex.

Mevlana Rumi: Come, come again, whoever you are, come!
Heathen, fire worshipper or idolatrous, come!
Come even if you broke your penitence a hundred times,
Ours is the portal of hope, come as you are.

Tags: AMALAYER, Kiltepan, Kiltepan Sunrise, Mountain Province, Philippines, Sagada

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SAGADA Blues: Backbreaking Rides, Hanging Coffins and Terraced Rice Paddies

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 5 Comments

December 6, 2012

It was a long, backbreaking, butt-busting ride. Half a day on the road with half of Manila packed in vans, cars, jeeps and buses weaving through the winding roads to Banaue and Sagada. Obviously, the long weekend lured many city people to check out the mountain air and remote villages in Mountain Province. The van we hired for our group of 7 pax was actually very comfortable. BUT, it was a very lonnnnnggg ride. Traffic along zigzag routes kept us glued to our seats, munching junk snacks whenever we wake up from brief naps.

Topload! (I wouldn’t dare…) Photo Credits: Peter

Love this photo of Manong and his wooden bike. Sagada 2012. (Peter, you do have an eye for great photos like this one!)

By the time we found this old man in his local “Igorot” costume with his wooden bike, we had the sun shining on us. As well on the Banaue Rice Terraces. Having tinkered with my camera on the long ride, I messed up and couldn’t put the cam to its original settings. Too much light, good only for zoomed-in and close up shots. What did I do? And we just got here! Thank God I was traveling with 2 photography nuts. Many of the shots here were taken by Peter and my niece Sarah. A few i took, using my iPhone cam. Thank you, Peter and Sarah. Thank you, Siri!

Banaue Rice Terraces. How about waking up from a long, butt-busting van ride to a vista such as this? Photo Credits: Peter

Lovely View of the Rice Terraces @ Banaue.

By the time we reached Sagada Homestay, we were all feeling like old men and old hags. Dropped our bags, napped for an hour or so, before checking out the hanging coffins and the “punishing” SUMAGUING Caves. Lunch was in Masferre’s while dinner was in this hip joint called Kimchi Cafe and Bar. A tiny eccentric place that easily transforms into a charming folk house as soon as the sun sets. This is where you find good, artistic use for bottle caps 🙂

Masferre’s for Lunch. But what we really wanted to do was lie down and sleep!

Dinner at Kimchi Cafe and Bar. Look at how they used bottle caps to decorate the place. Perfect with bottles of beer and music by Bob Marley!

After SUMAGUING Cave, I was completely wasted. Got out of the cave at 7pm and found my niece asking nearly everyone coming out if they’ve seen me with my guide James. Sarah has been here before and it was she who had so much faith I can do this spelunking expedition. She regrets now she didn’t catch on video the first words off my mouth as I climbed out of the cave :-0

The long, hot shower was very soothing. As I cleaned my feet and legs of mud, I realized why I kept slipping on the climb up. Too wasted to wash my own muddied clothes, I gave them away. No Internet, no TV as I didn’t need any prodding to hit the sack. As I closed my eyes, I must have fallen asleep just as my back touched the bed. I woke up at 2am just as my niece got in. I barely heard all the banter among tourists around a bonfire just outside the Homestay. I sensed the fun, the drunkenness, even the coquettish laughter from women speaking English with varied accents. It would have been fun to eavesdrop but my body and all my senses were longing to get back to sleep. SUMAGUING Cave does that to you.

Don’t I look LOST? Sumaguing Cave. Thank you Peter, for this shot.

Hanging Coffins. And we did ask. The natives used ladders to put and hang these wooden boxes bearing their dead. If you look closely, you’d find a skull and some bones on top of one of the boxes. Photo Credits: Peter

Knocked out good and completely re-energized for the Kiltepan sunrise, I even managed to make my coffee before stepping out of the Sagada Homestay. While some went for more “punishment” via the Bomod-ok Falls, others checked out the terraced rice paddies, more hanging coffins and rock gardens. You looking at me? You guessed right. No falls for me. Having stubbed my big toe inside the cave, I’m not doing any more trekking to explore natural waterfalls in Sagada.

NO, I’m not following the leader. Terraced rice paddies in Sagada.

Fresh mountain air. Great mountain view. Sagada.

Sagada. Mountain Province. Philippines.

Tags: Hanging Coffins, Kimchi Cafe Bar, Masferre, rice terraces, Sagada, Sagada Homestay

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ROCK & ROLL @SUMAGUING CAVE

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

December 5, 2012

Here’s one for the books. No, I wouldn’t call it spelunking. Not even caving per se. In my book, it’s pure and simple curiosity and blind courage that found me at the mouth of SUMAGUING Cave in Sagada one late afternoon and mindlessly saying “yes” to this adventure. After all, so many of my young blogger-friends have blogged about it. So, I was naturally curious. AND ….. adequately challenged. 😊

The Descent.

Directional Sign to Sumaguing Cave

I’ve been to many caves and had my fill of stalagmites and stalactites. You can say I didn’t have much by way of expectations. My only concern is to get out of it before nightfall as it was already 4pm when we began our descent. James, our guide, looked nonchalant seeing there’s a not-so-young adventurer in his group of 5 pax. I looked around and concluded I must be among the oldest, if not THE oldest, with the curious lot of caving enthusiasts that late afternoon.

Interior Shot. Traffic Inside the Sumaguing Cave! Sagada.

That headlamp was a brilliant (pun intended) idea!

The cave was packed with youngsters who shared the same not-so-brilliant idea with us to spend the long weekend in Sagada. The crowd meant long waits as the group of descending first-timers wait for a line making way to climb up and out of the cave. The extended waits made me rethink my intentions. And as I pondered, I knew this was more a challenge rather than a sightseeing adventure. One look at our guide James competently balancing a lamp between his thigh and left hand while offering his right hand to me, and I knew I just had to get this over and done with.

More Traffic Down Below, Inside the Sumaguing Cave.

Getting All Muddied Up Inside Sagada’s Sumaguing Cave

I was ready. With a headlight and gloves, I made my way down. The initial descent was over slippery rocks. I felt more confident when we did away with footwear, gripped our soles over rocks around pools of water, and slowly, carefully dipped our toes, then our entire legs in cold waters. All the while, I refrained from asking James how much further we should go let I lose heart. I knew the options were quite limited. James had to go with the group and should I choose not to continue, it’s either I go with another group climbing out or I wait for our team. Besides, I was actually growing confident myself, even excited!

No Way To Go But Barefoot Inside Sumaguing Cave

A Natural Beauty @ Sumaguing Cave

This rock cavern gave me a most memorable souvenir when I stubbed my big toe as I nearly slipped climbing up. It was nearly 7pm by the time we got out of the cave. But that was not really the exciting part. Nor was climbing up a rope. From the cave bottom, our guide James positioned himself in a way where he can actually pull us up with one hand through huge rocks a la Jackie Chan. I grabbed his hand, made big strides up and over the rocks but couldn’t pull myself over! Knowing James couldn’t hold my full weight, I didn’t waste more seconds. One hand held by James, I straddled my left leg over the rock and……… ROLLED! Oh yes, even James wasn’t sure what I was doing! But….. I made it.

Yee Haw! I made it!

Now, Where’s the rest of my group? (Lost Inside Sumaguing Cave)

ROCK AND ROLL, indeed! Surely, that made my day. Aching calf, thigh muscles and sore shoulders, the pain remained long after my uber-dirty, muddied clothes were washed and dried. Oh my, what was I thinking then???