Category: Philippine Travels



Let me ask……..when was the last time you visited the Museum?

 

Don’t look at me. It’s something I don’t do on a regular basis. But I would love to spend many afternoons there. And I continue to wish there is a good coffee corner somewhere within the building where I can take a break before pursuing a second run of the Gallery.

 

 

The National Art Gallery with the Balangay Diwata ng Lahi

 

 

As it turned out, I was good for just a couple of hours. No breaks. Glucose level drops in 2 hours after walking from Hall to Hall , up and down the 3 floors. And then I start longing for a cup of good brew and some munchies. Having said that, let me advise you to go in the morning after a good breakfast! Or in the afternoon after a good lunch 😉

 

 

The Museum Of the Filipino People

 

 

When I got there, I decided to do the National Art Gallery first. The Museum of the Filipino People is good for a separate visit. “Slow by slow.” 😉 Who says you can rush through a Museum? The best time is always a time when you don’t care about the time. Go slow. Read all those markers. Every piece of art has something to say. Either written or visual or sensed. If you’re like me who hardly picks up an art or history book, this maybe a fine time to brush up on art and history. You just have to trust that the most relevant information are encapsulated in all those reading materials and markers.

 

 

Juan Luna

Felix Ressureccion Hidalgo’s “Assassination of Governor Bustamante”

 

 

You may want to start with the Hall of Masters. Be prepared to be blown away. Juan Luna’s “Spoliarium” has that effect on most people. On the other hand, Hidalgo’s “Assassination of Governor Bustamante” reveals a violent side of Spanish friars of that period. See it to know what I mean. Sly. Sly.

 



 

There are special halls showcasing the Museum collections of Juan Luna, Hidalgo, Amorsolo, Botong Francisco, Napoleon Abueva, etc. I cannot write about all of them, and would have to limit myself to a few favorites. After all, the “selection” is a very personal decision. No pretensions here. In my book, art assumes significance when these treasured pieces “talk” to me. Or “touch” me. I may misinterpret its message, or completely misunderstand it. But why and how the message was conveyed to me is entirely my own perception. Or sensation? This may sound like it takes too much away from the artist himself. But I dare say that the artists’ messages affect people in different ways. Happy, sad, empty, peaceful, anxious, relaxing, refreshing, uplifting…… we feel as we feel.

 

 

How lucky were those who posed for Amorsolo! They have been immortalized by this National Artist’s magical hands. Truly, a “Pamana” or inheritance. Amorsolo’s legacy lives through these masterpieces. Thank God for this prolific painter, our very first National Artist. From Philippine landscapes to traditional Filipino practices and everyday life , to these portraits, one is transported back in time as one takes in all those details of his artful strokes. For sure, his uncle Fabian de la Rosa, another great Filipino artist, must be so proud having mentored Amorsolo in his younger days when he and his family (Amorsolo’s mom is De La Rosa’s cousin) lived with them after Amorsolo’s father died.

 

 

 

 

 

First off, I was very very happy to find the Museum Foundation Hall where one views Botong Francisco’s murals which were ‘rescued’ by the Foundation from Philippine General Hospital (PGH) where they were earlier housed. The murals represent the progress of medicine in our country, so it was fitting to have them in PGH. Over time, these art pieces hardly invited attention, much less admiration and respect, as PGH visitors had other mundane things in mind. Cleaned up, restored to its former glory, and accorded its due respect in a Hall focusing on the greatness of this National Artist is an answered prayer. Aaaaah. Those wooden benches looking like “hagabis” (were they? ) let one rest and simply take in all the beauty of the masterpieces.

 

 

 

 

Vessels of Faith. That’s what it says. Honestly? I don’t know one bit about this exhibit. So, I devoured all “lessons” to be learned right in this Hall. Remember what I told you? The good guys who made this exhibit possible would have read up on these art pieces, and like “Twitter” are constrained to write down/display all that information in as few words as possible. This is history “shortcut”, if I may call it that. And it is just what I need. Right then and there, I did my “cramming” as if I would have to pass an exam as I exit from the National Art Gallery.

 

 

 

 

So, how much do we know of the Tau-Tao? A quick reading gives ample background on this Bagobo myth on afterlife. The myth is complete with all those colorful characters which reminded me of those Ramayana tales and Panday movies. Imagine Lumabat’s journey from earth, crossing the horizon to reach the skyworld. Meeting and vanquishing a snake with sharp teeth and a mouth that opens wide and shut to cut one person half, chasing a deer 9 times around the world, belly-opening procedures to take out one’s intestines to free Lumabat of his earthly desires (hunger)! Oh, this is part of our history — all those pre-Hispanic beliefs and myths comprising the Filipino spirituality!

 

 

 

 

 

I lament that I did not take my history lessons seriously. How I wish we had the equivalent of an Ambeth Ocampo (myIdol) in my student years! Now I cram. And it takes more than a few visits to really appreciate our heritage housed in the National Arts Gallery. So much. Too much. So I have decided on my “slow by slow” mode as my memory bank is not as efficient as it used to be. A few exhibits at a time. A few artists at a time. And once more, how I wish there is a Coffee Shop within the Museum! Caffeine-starved, my memory bank screams “full”. No storage space.

 

 

Talk to you later, guys!


Art Gallery.  Old House for the night.  Good food. 

You may think that San Pablo City is way too far to have dinner.  On a good day, or a good night,  it is not.  More so if you have lined up activities for the day and planned to unwind and indulge yourself come dinnertime on your way back to Manila.  It would also be a good excuse to have a few winks after dinner on that 2 hour drive home.  Yes, just 2 hours. Give or take fifteen minutes or so. 

That, in fact, is the idea behind the Viajes del Sol.  The only problem with this Southern Luzon Travel Itinerary is that one is presented with too many dining choices that it is sheer agony having to choose from among these off-the-beaten path cafes and inspiring artists’ studios.

In San Pablo City alone,  it is a chore to decide where to dine.  If you only had a day, you need to decide beforehand if you wish to dine with a lakeside view, visit a sculptor’s workshop, a nature sanctuary, an organic farm, or an art gallery.  And that’s only in San Pablo City.  The final choice is Sulyap Cafe, where a visit is best timed around dusk when the “bahay na bato” is lighted up and turns magical.   The structure was originally from Tiaong, Quezon and transferred to this one-hectare property in San Pablo City where another structure houses an antique shop from lamps to beds to trunks to chairs. The dining areas actually involve 2 structures: one is good for big groups where one finds a sumptuous buffet spread, the other cozier as in superb dating place. 😉

Right across the restaurant but still within the one-hectare compound is Casa Obando. Newly-opened. Newly-minted Bed & Breakfast place, following the same “bahay na bato” theme.  I would love to stay a night here sometime soon. 

Magical , isn’t it?  And there’s the antique shop too, if you care to do some serious shopping.  Do notice the “burda” (laces) and “espejo” (stained glass) used extensively in the interior decor. 

I “lost” myself in this antique shop, just checking out the antique rocking chairs , until I realized I was the only left inside the shop cum art gallery.   I knew I was alone even before I looked around. Creepy. 

So tell me, who wants to book a room here?  Or a table? Er….have I talked about the food yet?

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Art and the Artist.  And then, food.

We had an  early start that day, and felt really spent by the time we reached Tiaong, Quezon where Ugu’s Pottery Shop and Gardens are. No, we had no reservations for dinner here.  Just dropping by on our way to Sulyap Cafe where we had a dinner reservation.  That is to say that we plan to visit again, if only to check out the food here. Good reviews, I hear.

 

We wandered around.  The decor and the layout made for a very relaxing stroll especially after a tiring day.  Ugu was around when we got there.  He proudly showed us around his shop and the gardens.  

I am way past shopping. Especially on this humid day.  The art pieces make for great conversational centerpieces for a coffee table.  Some in the group went shopping while I was quite happy just walking around.  

The first hut beside Ugu’s residence is not strictly Filipino, but more Asian-inspired.  The decor, the arrangement of interesting art pieces set the mood.  Like someone pushed PAUSE.  Just what we needed. 

Just what I needed.

The reclining Buddha we saw conveys exactly that message as I felt my eyelids droop in tandem with the setting sun.  Just before dusk, I glimpsed a tiny hut in another property beside Ugu’s and wondered if he also owned the adjacent lot.  

Before we knew it, it was time to board the bus. This stopover is almost a dream.  Was I really there? 

Disclaimer:  This is not a food blog. Neither is this a travel blog. Just musings and ramblings of an old, tired lady on her way home.


From Laoag City to Vigan and back, we remember our wonderful dining experiences in these 4 restos. If there was more time, I’m sure we would have tried other dining places in between those yummy bagnet, longganiza and empanadas. So. Let’s not beat around the bush. Whenever the subject is food, no one should be kept waiting.

Vigan Empanada

Herencia Cafe

Best dining location ever.  Pick a table by the window and enjoy a panoramic view of the Paoay Church in all its majesty. It rained while we were cruising in a van from the airport thru a couple of touristy sites before sitting down for a proper lunch here.  A late lunch, but no one was complaining.  

This is the home, the birthplace of the famous Pinakbet Pizza.  Pinakbet as in that very Ilocano dish which found its way to almost every Filipino family’s dinner table.  Pizza as in that most famous export of Italy, along with spaghetti.  And it was such a treat to be able to taste the authentic Ilocano dishes such as Bagnet, Poqui Poqui, Dinengdeng and Crispy Dinuguan

Herencia Cafe : Right Across Paoay Church

Herencia Cafe: Home of Pinakbet Pizza

Bagnet, Kilawin, Pinakbet Pizza, Poqui Poqui, Dinengdeng, Crispy Dinuguan

La Preciosa @Laoag City

Our van driver wanted to bring us here on our very first day.  Perhaps he felt an authentic Ilocano meal here would have made a fine introduction to Ilocos Norte.  He wasn’t wrong.  Even if we actually “ended” our trip with a meal here on our last day.  

The restaurant has a bakeshop right beside it.  Which is fine if we have grown “tired” of Ilocano cuisine. Not so though.  We have not outgrown our taste for Dinengdeng and Crispy Dinuguan which they call Crispy Dinardaraan here.  

La Preciosa

But we were not prepared for Warek Warek.  No Ilocano has ever introduced me to this local dish of pig’s meat and entrails (tongue, liver, intestines) parboiled with calamansi, grilled, sliced, served with the juice of more calamansi and seasoned with salt and pepper. Having tried it, I was convinced we should not order any more dish involving innards. So no Higadu for us. But don’t miss the chance to try it when you get here.  Along with the Inabraw, Insarabasab, and Duyduy.

Cafe Leona

No one goes to Vigan without a “proper stroll” along Calle Crisologo.   You can do it during the day, but we strongly recommend you don’t miss it at night.  It had just rained when we got here, and the rainwashed cobble-stoned paths glistened as the lights from colonial-inspired lamp posts reflected on the water.   At the end of Calle Crisologo is Cafe Leona.  I didn’t mean to stop here for a meal except for my usual late afternoon brew.  Thought it would be a good place to sit out while the rest of the family explore.  By the time they were back, they were famished and ready for an early dinner. 

Cafe Leona. Along Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Cafe Leona’s menu is as confused as my current state while there, minding my 2 “elves” while their parents and aunts camwhore outside.  Thinking the best thing to do was to submit to Fusion Cuisine,  that was exactly what we did.  I wasn’t too happy with my Pasta with Longganiza, but the kids were happy with theirs.  Guess this place provides a “good break” while our stomach enzymes were still busily digesting our Ilocano breakfast and lunch. 

Kusina Felecitas / Cafe Uno @ Grandpa’s Inn

Grandpa

In Vigan, we would have been quite content with the empanadas filled with Vigan longganiza, egg and papaya.  But in Kusina Felecitas in Grandpa’s Inn,  we found this rare Malaga fish on its Menu, prepared in sour broth as with any other sinigang dish,  but soured with the local santol fruit!   We also indulged in the famous Vigan longganiza, the usual accompaniment of Poqui Poqui and Dinengdeng,  and the Kulintipay Shells.   These shells are actually the very same capiz shells you see framed in the sliding windows of Grandpa’s Inn.  I have not seen them for ages, much less, ate them.  Well, we were in luck in Vigan!  

Sinigang na Malaga Sa Santol

Among all the dining places we have tried, this one’s our favorite in terms of ambience. The restaurant looks more like an art gallery. The paintings hanging on the walls cover all the way to the Inn’s coffee shop aptly called Cafe Uno. Next time we are in Vigan, we would most certainly check in at this lovely Grandpa’s Inn

 

Kulintipay Shells

More? Read my TravelBlog post. 


We were on our way to Club Balai Isabel in Talisay, Batangas and took the SLEX/Star Toll Route. We passed the Mabini Shrine in Barrio Talaga, Tanauan and took the chance to visit this historical site. Frankly, we weren’t expecting that the Shrine would be situated in this huge property along the main road in the birthplace of this nearly unheralded hero of the Revolution.

Apolinario Mabini Shrine in Tanauan, Batangas

A Few History Lessons

For someone who took on odd jobs, even worked as a houseboy, just to get through school, Mabini’s intellect certainly shone through in academics. Shabbily dressed as any poor student could be, shunning ridicule, he earned a scholarship and taught children to earn money for his board and lodging. Unlike Dr. Rizal, the Luna brothers, and many revolutionaries learned in the ways of the world outside of his own country, Mabini stayed to earn a local education but in no way any less than his generation’s erudite patriots. Unlike Padre Burgos who gave in to his mother’s wish for him to be a priest, Mabini refused to pay heed to his mother’s wishes. He passed college with the highest honors and went on to earn his law degree from the oldest university, University of Santo Tomas, in 1894. All that time, while laboring, working his way through school.

Many remember Mabini as the “Sublime Paralytic” who served as the very first Prime Minister cum chief advisor to then President Emilio F. Aguinaldo. He crafted the very first Constitution of the Philippines, the very first also in Asia, thus earning him the unofficial title of “Brains of the Revolution”.

When America defeated Spain, he refused to swear his allegiance to the new set of colonizers leading to his arrest in Nueva Ecija. After having been exiled to Guam along with other revolutionary leaders, Mabini returned in February 1903 and resumed his patriotic work, much to the chagrin of the American colonial officials.  He didn’t live long enough as he fell ill and died of cholera in Sta. Mesa, Manila  in May 1903 . Not many know that Mabini died single at the age of 38.   His remains were transferred to his town of birth where a Shrine now stands on his simple grave. A replica of the house where Mabini was born was constructed in the Shrine site which also houses some of his memorabilia.  A distant relative is one of the caretakers in the Mabini Shrine.  Failed to get his name, but look him up, for more  Mabini trivia.

Trivia:  A Most Unfortunate, Undeserved Controversy

The life of Mabini was hounded by controversy, especially regarding the cause of his paralysis.  During his lifetime, it was rumoured that Mabini suffered from syphilis which resulted in his paralysis. A subsequent exhumation  and autopsy of his bones disproved this rumour and confirmed that the paralysis was caused by Polio.  Unfortunately, the malicious rumour has done its rounds and was debunked much too late in 1980. No less than National Artist F. Sionil Jose erred in his book Po-on, for which the novelist offered the following apology, which reads in part:

I committed a horrible blunder in the first edition of Po-On. No apology to the august memory of Mabini no matter how deeply felt will ever suffice to undo the damage that I did…. According to historian Ambeth Ocampo who told me this too late, this calumny against Mabini was spread by the wealthy mestizos around Aguinaldo who wanted Mabini’s ethical and ideological influence cut off. They succeeded. So, what else in our country has changed?

If you don’t have the time and the resources to visit all the Lakbay Jose Rizal@150 Sites, or at the very least want a glimpse of what you can find there, you may wish to do this.

One morning I visited the National Museum,  I found myself way too early before Museum hours and so I lingered around. First off,  I checked out the Balangay Diwata ng Lahi behind the National Arts Gallery. Looking at this sea vessel makes you wonder how our ancestors rode the treacherous waters in open seas back then.  Also reminds us that the ancient Pinoys were really a seafaring people and competent boat builders! Can you imagine them sailing based on their ancient methods of reading through the stars, cloud formations, and bird migration patterns?  

Balangay Diwata ng Lahi @National Arts Gallery

An hour before the Museum doors opened to the public, and having viewed the Balangay,  I wandered off behind the 2 Museum Buildings and found myself walking around the Agrifina Circle where one also finds the lovely Department of Tourism Building.  Standing guard over all these art-deco buildings is a huge bronze statue of Lapu Lapu.  Our likely first hero way before the Spaniards ruled the land, and most certainly way before the Americans “guided” us in choosing our heroes. ;-)

Lapu Lapu Statue Standing Guard Around The Valencia or Agrifina Circle

Off on one side a few meters away is a man-made pond where a huge relief map of the Philippines is to be found, right beside the Children’s Playground. All around this pond are glass-encased photos of various Rizal heritage sites named in the Lakbay Jose Rizal@150. Aptly called One-Stop Heritage Trail, it was unveiled only last May 2011. There is no excuse now not to learn more about these sites, if only to know our national hero better, appreciate his journey through life, his struggle, and his heroism.

Relief Map of the Philippines with the LapuLapu Statue in the Background

I found myself moving from one encased photo to the next.  Tried to get a decent photo, but this amateur had problems with the reflections on the glass.  Epic fail.  But I read through some of the relevant and interesting  trivia on each encased photo and thought I’d share with you just the same these awful shots I took. Just think I’m saving you the trip.  Or perhaps you can be motivated to go to get a ‘better picture’. 

Rizal’s boat, the S.S. España arrived in Dumaguete City. Dr. Rizal went ashore, visited Governor Regal of Negros Occidental, visited a classmate Herrero Regidor and operated on the captain of the Civil Guard.

The same  boat, the S.S. España, arrived at Iloilo where Dr. Rizal had the chance to visit Escolta and the Church of Molo in Iloilo. 

Then the  S.S. España docked in Cebu on August 2, 1896 for a routine one-day stop over. After breakfast on board, Commander Carcinero took Rizal under custody to the Spanish Military Commander of Cebu, Gen. Adulfo Montero in the Military Headquarters located in Fort San Pedro.

The official residence and administration building of the politico-military governor of the district, Rizal lived there from July 17, 1892 to March 1893 before he was transferred to Talisay, now the Rizal Dapitan Shrine.

A National Cultural Treasure in Dapitan, Zamboanga del Norte.  Rizal created this map as an aid in teaching history and geography to the locals while in exile from 1892 to 1896.

 

I took notice of this lamp post. Love the base with the calesa design. Thought this lamp post is far better than all those multi-colored cheap-looking lightposts you find all over Metro Manila.  

There were more photos on display around the pond where you see the relief map of the Philippines. But it is now time to head back to the Museum. 


Ever heard of it? It is right along Shaw Boulevard near Cherry’s Foodarama. A 3-storey 50+ year old Mansion sitting on a 6,000 square meter prime lot in Mandaluyong.  The heritage house used to be the residence of the illustrous Laurel Family, which includes a former President (Jose , 1943-1945) and a former Vice President (Salvador, or “Doy” to many, 1986-1992).

In those days, this palatial house and lawn must have been one of the grandest in the entire metropolis. I’ve seen some in the Malate and Ermita areas, and a number too in the New Manila Area and San Juan. But I like the layout of this white house sitting right in the middle of a very spacious lawn complete with a wooden bridge over a pond, surrounded by old balete and royal palm trees.

For a while,  the house looked destined to ruin as the gardens needed trimming and the house demanded a fresh coat of paint.  It was even reported that the ceiling was about to collapse on the dirty tiles and flooring.  For some 7 years, the house went unoccupied.  Then Senator Manny Villar bought the house from the Laurels and converted it into the Nacionalista Party Headquarters. Some sprucing up here and there, but the architecture, the layout , the garden fountain and pond were all retained by the new owners. Not one tree removed or even moved, thank God! The history and dignity of the house was retained. And that includes the 2 markers found in the house.   The first notes the date when the Laurel patriarch built the property in 1957. The second commemorates the visit of Indonesian President Sukarno, who twice slept at the mansion.

You bet the once-hallowed grounds became real busy back in 2010; but of late, it is almost sad passing by this former residence poorly lighted at night. Not much activity these days, except for a few charity events and political affairs. 

Mea culpa. A Bad Shot, but it's my only night shot of the garden.

No, the property is not open to the public. But who knows, you may get invited to some affairs still held in these grounds.

The house used to be called Villa Paciencia.  And yes, that is how it is spelled, in honor of the late President’s wife, Paciencia Hidalgo. It is one of the three residences that Laurel built. There is  a house in Tanauan, which the Laurels consider their ancestral home, and another in Paco, Manila, called the Villa Peñafrancia. 


We had lunch at Cafe Uno / Kusina Felecitas @Grandpa’s Inn.  Little did we know that we would not only enjoy our lunch, we actually fell in love with the place.  My “elves” wanted to stay in this inn and wished we didn’t have to go back to our hotel in Vigan. Frankly, I was quite tempted to pack up and transfer to this place too and forego a night’s paid room in the other hotel.  

This small hotel is located  near Plaza Burgos.  The jeepney we hired took us here after visiting Burgos Museum.  Exact address is  No. 1 Bonifacio St. cor. Quirino Blvd.  We could have walked.  It should be an easy walk from Calle Crisologo too. 

The hotel is called Grandpa’s Inn, an ancestral house transformed into this charming 22-room inn.  Its dining place is called Kusina Felecitas and its coffee shop, Cafe Uno Restaurant.  Oozing with old world charm along with the many paintings hanging on its brick walls,  the place is also a gourmand’s delight given its extensive menu.  (Food here deserves a SEPARATE blog……coming!)

A marker by the entrance to the Inn states that the ancestral house was a wedding gift of 3 spinster sisters to their younger brother Mariano.  The sisters were children by first marriage. Young Mariano was one of 8 children by 2nd marriage.  (Their father remarried after 2 years from the death of his 1st wife)  Of them 8 by the 2nd marriage, only Mariano and a sister got married.  On the other hand,  only 2 of the 7 children by 1st marriage got married.  Hmmm, talk about sibling love here! I simply love this trivia. Love Love Love!

A Case of Sibling Love. Read This Marker!

Reception Desk of Grandpa's Inn

All around, from the Reception Area to the Second Floor Sitting Room, to the ground floor restaurant, we found very interesting art pieces. Ended up buying one painting.   Quite an experience to dine here, really.  

Isn't this a lovely painting of Calle Crisologo? Like ur walking right into it!

Reception Area: More Art Pieces That Seem To Jump Off The Canvas

It was hard to peel ourselves away from the Calesa Rooms.  The fact that they were vacant made us agonize whether to transfer to this Inn or not. The kids loved this room!

Sitting Room at the Second Floor

Calesa Beds?

You can check out the hotel rates but allow me to say that given its location and charm,  I find the room rates very reasonable.  In fact, they even come out a wee bit cheaper than the other hotel we stayed in. 

Room Good For 8: Dormitory!

And if that Calesa Room good for 4 pax is reasonably-priced,  the Dormitory Room good for 8 pax wins hands down!

So there.  More photos in this blog than write-up.  Just had to show you where we plan to stay next time we’re in town.  Coming up:  Food Tripping in Ilocos

Here's the Painting I Bought For My Friend!

And here’s the painting I could have bought for myself but decided against buying because the painting makes me feel sad. Lovely piece of art. But sad. Who’d want to feel sad?  Not this old lady. Er, I mean not me.  

😦 😦 😦 😦 😦


If there’s Hispanic Philippines in Intramuros and Chinoy Philippines in Binondo,  then Harbour Square may well be your American Philippines.

Just realized it has been awhile since the last time I was here.  I remember idling time away here soon after I quit my job. The breeze, the view, those speedboats bobbing up and down the waters of Manila Bay, the skyline,  all make for a lazy morning. Or afternoon.  Wide range of dining choices too, should you go hungry.  You can go all American at Army Navy, full-throttle Pinoy at Dencio’s, Mediterranean along with a flute of champagne or glass of white or red wine at Grappa’s, Japanese shabu shabu or Teriyaki Boy,  Chinese, or go budget meals at Jollibee.  Or perhaps you can talk well into the night while sipping your brew at Starbucks.

The place is ideal for dating couples.  Whether you are in a romantic mood or gearing for a lover’s quarrel,  you’d find some “privacy” while strolling the walkway by the Bay, circling  Cultural Center of the Philippines, Folk Arts Theater, Aliw Theater, Star City, all the way to Sofitel if you like.  If all that walking didn’t settle the score, well…….get a room.  😉  Well, apart from being more private you also get to take a better twilight photo of the Bay area.  Seriously though,  this part of Manila is more “quiet”, less chaotic, good for the nerves and spirit. 

Guess Where This Shot Was Taken!

And here’s another one too……………. 🙂

Twilight at the Bay Area

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Gomburza.  How much do we know of Fathers Gomez, Burgos and Zamora?  Years before Dr. Jose Rizal was executed in 1896, there were these 3 martyrs garroted in Bagumbayan in 1872 for their suspected role in the Cavite Mutiny. Their martyrdom inspired our national hero to write another novel.  El Filibusterismo was dedicated to their memory. I would even venture to add that they may have actually planted the seeds of rebellion or at the very least, inspired subsequent Philippine independence advocates. To them, we owe much. Indeed, the freedom we now enjoy was nourished by the blood of these martyrs.  Let no one forget that.

The Museum Opens Up To This Cozy Garden

The bodies of the three priests were buried in a common, unmarked grave in the Paco Cemetery which was built in 1820, and was originally intended for the victims of cholera epidemic. There they lay nearly forgotten. So so forgotten that a toilet once stood right above the place where the 3 martyrs were buried! Such irreverence.   

Beside Burgos Museum is the Provincial Jail where former President Quirino was born. His father was then the Provincial Jail Warden. Some trivia for you!

Presently, a Gomburza Marker stands in Rizal Park where the 3 priests were executed, just a little behind and to the left of the Rizal Monument.  Not too many know about it. If they do find it, they may even likely be surprised with the discovery. Don’t you just wish these martyrs were accorded more respect and attention?  

Wen Manong Makes 3

Father Gomez hails from Santa Cruz, Manila.  Father Jacinto Zamora hails from Pandacan, Manila. Both Manilenos.  Only Father Burgos hails from the province.  He is a purebred Ilocano from Vigan, Ilocos Sur.  He grew up in this lovely 2 storey house built in 1788 which over time served as a Post Office (American Occupation) and as an office of the Philippine National Bank (1946-1965). 

 

Right beside the Burgos Ancestral House is the Provincial Jail where the former President Elpidio Quirino was born. His father was then the Provincial Jail Warden. Still it does not explain why and how his mother happened to be there where his father worked.  😉  Perhaps there is a Provincial Health Officer or Doctor or Midwife in the Provincial Jail then? We asked, but no one seemed to know. 

 

 

During the Spanish colonial period, there was an “imaginary” caste system in society. The Spaniards born in Spain were called “peninsulares”.  Those born in Spanish colonies (to include the Philippines) were called “insulares”.  And then there were the “mestizos” or half-breeds. And the lowliest of them all — the “Sangleys” (Chinese and/or Chinoys) and the rural “Indios”.

 

The Burgos Ancestral House. Now A Museum.

 

Father Burgos belongs to the “insulares”, having a Spanish army officer for a father and mestiza mother. A photo of  his lovely mother hangs on the wall with an inscription that cites how the young Jose Burgos desired to be a lawyer but was dissuaded by his mother to instead become a priest. 

 

Inside the Burgos Museum


When we visited the Burgos Museum,  we were quite happy to find that the Museum is well-managed and has an interesting collection of archaelogical finds as well as memorabilia of Father Burgos and his family. Of interest , and quite unexpected, is the diorama showing local historical events.  Like the construction of the lovely Paoay Church in Ilocos Norte. There was even a “Wall of Fame” featuring eminent Ilocano  heroes and achievers.  Guess who were there! As a hotbed of social unrest against colonial abuses,  the Ilocos Region was most certainly not short on patriots in the league of Padre Burgos, the poetess  Leona Florentino (sounds familiar? yes, of the Cafe Leona fame), the first Ilocano President, Elpidio Quirino, and ahhhhh, guess who’s the other Ilocano President? 😉

 

Diorama of the Execution of The 3 Martyr-Priests

A Diorama of Paoay Church Under Construction

The Kitchen

This Corner I Find Just A Little Creepy

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