Tag Archive: Laoag

Where and What To Eat In Ilocos?

September 3, 2011

From Laoag City to Vigan and back, we remember our wonderful dining experiences in these 4 restos. If there was more time, I’m sure we would have tried other dining places in between those yummy bagnet, longganiza and empanadas. So. Let’s not beat around the bush. Whenever the subject is food, no one should be kept waiting.

Vigan Empanada

Herencia Cafe

Best dining location ever. Pick a table by the window and enjoy a panoramic view of the Paoay Church in all its majesty. It rained while we were cruising in a van from the airport thru a couple of touristy sites before sitting down for a proper lunch here. A late lunch, but no one was complaining.

This is the home, the birthplace of the famous Pinakbet Pizza. Pinakbet as in that very Ilocano dish which found its way to almost every Filipino family’s dinner table. Pizza as in that most famous export of Italy, along with spaghetti. And it was such a treat to be able to taste the authentic Ilocano dishes such as Bagnet, Poqui Poqui, Dinengdeng and Crispy Dinuguan.

Herencia Cafe : Right Across Paoay Church

Herencia Cafe: Home of Pinakbet Pizza

Bagnet, Kilawin, Pinakbet Pizza, Poqui Poqui, Dinengdeng, Crispy Dinuguan

La Preciosa @Laoag City

Our van driver wanted to bring us here on our very first day. Perhaps he felt an authentic Ilocano meal here would have made a fine introduction to Ilocos Norte. He wasn’t wrong. Even if we actually “ended” our trip with a meal here on our last day.

The restaurant has a bakeshop right beside it. Which is fine if we have grown “tired” of Ilocano cuisine. Not so though. We have not outgrown our taste for Dinengdeng and Crispy Dinuguan which they call Crispy Dinardaraan here.

La Preciosa

But we were not prepared for Warek Warek. No Ilocano has ever introduced me to this local dish of pig’s meat and entrails (tongue, liver, intestines) parboiled with calamansi, grilled, sliced, served with the juice of more calamansi and seasoned with salt and pepper. Having tried it, I was convinced we should not order any more dish involving innards. So no Higadu for us. But don’t miss the chance to try it when you get here. Along with the Inabraw, Insarabasab, and Duyduy.

Cafe Leona

No one goes to Vigan without a “proper stroll” along Calle Crisologo. You can do it during the day, but we strongly recommend you don’t miss it at night. It had just rained when we got here, and the rainwashed cobble-stoned paths glistened as the lights from colonial-inspired lamp posts reflected on the water. At the end of Calle Crisologo is Cafe Leona. I didn’t mean to stop here for a meal except for my usual late afternoon brew. Thought it would be a good place to sit out while the rest of the family explore. By the time they were back, they were famished and ready for an early dinner.

Cafe Leona. Along Calle Crisologo, Vigan

Cafe Leona’s menu is as confused as my current state while there, minding my 2 “elves” while their parents and aunts camwhore outside. Thinking the best thing to do was to submit to Fusion Cuisine, that was exactly what we did. I wasn’t too happy with my Pasta with Longganiza, but the kids were happy with theirs. Guess this place provides a “good break” while our stomach enzymes were still busily digesting our Ilocano breakfast and lunch.

Kusina Felecitas / Cafe Uno @ Grandpa’s Inn

Grandpa

In Vigan, we would have been quite content with the empanadas filled with Vigan longganiza, egg and papaya. But in Kusina Felecitas in Grandpa’s Inn, we found this rare Malaga fish on its Menu, prepared in sour broth as with any other sinigang dish, but soured with the local santol fruit! We also indulged in the famous Vigan longganiza, the usual accompaniment of Poqui Poqui and Dinengdeng, and the Kulintipay Shells. These shells are actually the very same capiz shells you see framed in the sliding windows of Grandpa’s Inn. I have not seen them for ages, much less, ate them. Well, we were in luck in Vigan!

Sinigang na Malaga Sa Santol

Among all the dining places we have tried, this one’s our favorite in terms of ambience. The restaurant looks more like an art gallery. The paintings hanging on the walls cover all the way to the Inn’s coffee shop aptly called Cafe Uno. Next time we are in Vigan, we would most certainly check in at this lovely Grandpa’s Inn.

Kulintipay Shells

More? Read my TravelBlog post.

Tags: Cafe Leona, Cafe Uno, Food Trip, Grandpa's Inn, Herencia Cafe, Ilocano Food, Ilocos Norte, Ilocos Sur, La Preciosa, Laoag, Paoay, Philippines, Vigan

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Laoag and Vigan: Our Colonial Past

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March 4, 2011

An hour or so away by plane, all of 8 to 9 hours travel by road. Take your pick.

Fort Ilocandia

Fountain Inside Fort Ilocandia

We chose to fly, then rent a car from our base which is Fort Ilocandia Hotel and Resort. The hotel is a good base for many day trips to various parts of the Ilocos Region. Top of the list is a visit to Vigan, the only surviving colonial town in the country. Declared a UNESCO Heritage Site, it is a must see for all visitors who want to catch a glimpse of how it was in the 18th and early 19th century. Time stood still in this part of Northern Philippines. It helped too that Vigan , unlike Cebu and Manila, was spared of the bombing last World War II. Do not forget that Manila is the second most bombed city during that war. By God’s mercy, Vigan survived and preserved its antiquated houses, cobbled pathways, even the calesas or horse-drawn carts. The township with all its narrow streets speak of an architecture which blends Spanish, Asian and Mexican influences. At the time, it was called Ciudad Fernandina before it became Vigan which comes from the word “kabiga-an” where a tuberous plant called “biga” abounds. Then famous as a commercial and trading post, it attracted Chinese junks sailing from the South China Sea. Some of these Chinese seafarers married natives and settled in Vigan. This was long before King Philip II of Spain sent Captain Juan de Salcedo who then “founded” the town in 1572 and called it Ciudad Fernandina in honor of the King’s son Ferdinand who died at an early age. Since then, Augustinian missionaries visited Vigan and the rest of Ilocos Region and initiated the evangelization of the area. Many churches and monuments still stand today , spared from the bombings of World War II.

Paoay Church

Paoay Church Sideview

Paoay Church, A Very Spanish Legacy

Back in Laoag, Ilocos Norte, we spent the next day visiting Paoay Church, another UNESCO Heritage Site. I have not seen a church compound anywhere in the Philippines as grand as this one. Paoay Church stands proud. It is by no means as grand as the churches you’d find in Europe, but the colonial heritage and the Spanish legacy give it its well-deserved grandeur. Built of bricks and coral blocks, the architecture combines Gothic, Baroque and Oriental. Built over a period of nearly 200 years, the church belltower is a fitting reminder of the Christianization of the Philippines as well as its role in the Philippine Revolution when it was used as an observation post by the local rebels called Katipuneros. Another church , the St. William’s Church, was built by the Augustinian frailes or priests in 1612 in the Italian Renaissance design. Right next to it is the Sinking Belltower leaning slightly to the North. This is our local though much scaled-down version of the Pisa tower. A 3rd church we visited was Sta. Monica Church , a century old church of neo-classical and baroque architecture.

Batac

Sinking Bell Tower

Ferdinand Marcos Hails from Ilocos

Of more recent history is the fact that ex-President and strongman Ferdinand Marcos hails from Batac, not too far from Laoag. The ancestral house of the Marcoses is now the Marcos Museum and Mausoleoum where the late President’s body lies like a wax statue. During his 20 year reign, Marcos built a Malacanang of the North (Malacanang in Manila is the official residence of the President, much like the White House in Washington DC). The mansion is an expression of opulence and overlooks the lovely Paoay Lake. Now a museum, visitors can tour the mansion for a minimal fee.

Bangui Windmills

Bantay Belfry, Ilocos Sur

These days, the Ilocos Region is still considered Marcos land despite the fact that the dictator has passed on many years ago. His only son, Ferdinand Junior, Bongbong to most, is the current congressman representing the Ilocos Region. Bongbong earlier served as governor of the province, during which time the Bangui Windmills were established. This wind farm lies nearly next to Pagudpud and now has 15 wind turbines. It has since attracted many visitors to the area just to view the 70 meters tall wind turbines. And not too far from here is the Cape Bojeador , a lighthouse built in 1892 north of Laoag City. It is the highest, and I think the oldest, lighthouse in the country.

Vigan's Heritage Site

Cape Bojeador Lighthouse

Many Ilocanos to this day idolize the late President Marcos. Without dwelling on politics, I will venture to suggest that the more prominent and admirable Ilocanos should be Juan Luna , Diego Silang and his equally brave widow, Gabriela. All three are martyrs and heroes of the land. They have done far more for our country than any other Ilocano. That said, let me invite everyone to visit our land!