Category: Food Trip



This is my neighbourhood. It’s a bit off the CBD, perhaps a couple of blocks. But here lies a slice of Japan with a cluster of izakayas serving authentic Japanese food with price tags ranging from quite cheap to pricey. Makati Cinema Square is now called Makati Central Square, MCS for short. Within this old mall are many tiny Japanese restos, the most popular of which is Manmaru. That is, judging by the queues nearly every mealtime outside this Japanese eatery. A few more restos within the same mall is Unakichi (entrance near Mcdo and KFC area) which specializes in unagi and Sakura Yakiniku (near Unakichi) and Yakiniku Kenshin (beside Manmaru). There is also our fav Wabi Sabi (2nd floor above Kenshin) for vegetarian ramen, dumplings and homemade ice cream. From MCS, we step out and cross the street towards LITTLE TOKYO which is another cluster of izakayas with a truly Japanese vibe. The Torii gate, narrow alley lined with red lanterns look more Japanese in the evenings when the lanterns are lighted and the courtyard seems more festive with banners.

It’s easy to miss it but this Torii gate is just across Manmaru in Makati Central Square
Behind the Torii gate is this narrow alley
towards the izakayas.

Within Little Tokyo, the most popular and my personal favorite is Kikufuji whose entrance fronts the main road (Chino Roces Avenue), and for ramen, there is Shinjuku. Both are iconic izakayas in the Little Tokyo area fronting the main road and must have stood there for at least 2 decades along with Hana which is situated in the inner “courtyard”. Parking is always a challenge so I’d advise parking in the MCS basement and just walking across to Little Tokyo.

Izakaya Kikufuji may look rundown but it consistently ranks among the best izakayas in Makati.
Hana is in the interior part of Little Tokyo and is one of the 2 oldest izakayas there.

Inside Little Tokyo, you may choose to go for simple snacks like takoyaki, kakigori (flavored ice shavings), okonomiyaki (pan cake) or have serious yakiniku or bento boxes. Plenty of choices here. Menus are on display by the izakaya’s door so there shouldn’t be any surprises especially if one is on a budget. You may also opt for al fresco lunch or dinner or step into the tiny air conditioned spaces. I have tried Kikufuji, Shinjuku, Yakiniku, Hana and Oishinbo in the Little Tokyo cluster. Pricing observes a wide range as it largely depends on what you order. Less expensive would be the rice bowls or rice toppings, called donburi. Ask also if they have set meals which are really combo meals to include your chosen dish, miso soup, pickles, rice and sometimes a drink. There are a few more izakayas waiting for me to try. 😁

Oishinbo in INSIDE Little Tokyo
Inside Hana

Seryna is also quite popular. It is right beside the Torii gate entrance and across Manmaru in MCS. But my personal favorite remains to be Kikufuji — love those wagyu cubes and sushi. Just that it is always fully booked so I always end up settling for Shinjuku ramen or one of those bento boxes in either Hana or Oishinbo. Unless of course I’m craving for unagi which means crossing towards MCS’ Unakichi. As for Manmaru, I’d rather order online (via Grab) than braving those long lines!

Wagyu Cubes from Kikufuji
Little Tokyo at Night

The latest addition to this izakaya cluster is EDOYA. It is right beside Seryna and a Japanese grocery store and right across Manmaru housed in Makati Central Square. Some of the food we ordered tasted good but they’re still on soft opening when we visited so the service can actually be improved. It took a while for our food to be served. Also, we stayed in one of the cubicles on the 2nd floor and we found the acoustic properties of the place to be problematic. I hope they do something about this because the place looks nice and we’re willing to give the Resto a second chance. The iced coffee bevs are ok but we were frustrated that none of their ice shaving desserts were available. I promise to dine there a 2nd time and update this blog. So there. 😉

EDOYA
EDOYA

As I often say, our pleasure barometer has nothing to do with the price tags. Dining options, for one, can range from cheap to pricey. But there is always a fine middle ground where something really good can be enjoyed for a reasonable price. Not necessarily cheap cheap, but value-for-money. Yum without burning a hole in the pocket.

Beef Tripe Porridge from GOTO MONSTER near
Pablo Ocampo and Kamagong Streets
Laksa from Nanyang

I like soupy dishes so that explains my love affair with porridge, ramen, laksa. The first photo — goto or beef tripe porridge — is from Goto Monster which is listed in the international book “Where Chefs Eat”. It is truly a comfort food, and by itself a wonderful, satisfying meal. It is also the kind of food you’d like to serve someone who’s sick or on the mend. Don’t ask me why. But it seems uncomplicated but filling enough. As for ramen or laksa, now this is a tad more complicated. It may look like a simple dish but in actuality, requires good kitchen wizardry to come up with a good version. And it’s always easy to tell if it’s good or not with the first spoonful. Trust me.

Katsu Curry Ramen or Odori Ramen from Surugin Ramen House in Alfonso, Cavite
Thai Street Eats is 1 of many food trucks and booths in GYUD Food Hub within UP Diliman Campus

If you like quick meals but do not favor sandwiches, these soupy dishes can solve your hunger pangs in a few spoonfuls. Another foolproof tip on where to find affordable eats is to search within, around or near campuses. Here and abroad, this theory applies. At student prices, you can scour the area for good eats. That means where students line up. Gyud Food Hub is one such example. It is inside the UP Campus near the College of Fine Arts and just off Jacinto Street. Many choices here from Thai to Chinese, Persian, Indian or Pinoy. They even have steak meals at affordable prices. These dining outlets price their meal sets within a student’s budget. Overhead is kept to a minimum as paper plates and bowls are used and dining is al fresco.

Near Greenbelt along Palanca Street is Panco Cafe
For Vietnamese Coffee, try Pao Cafe in Yakal Street

Around Makati, our random finds include 2 coffee shops with good food. Panco Cafe may have a limited menu but quite frankly, we keep ordering the same food because, well…. they’re good! In my book, it is always a choice between the breakfast brisket or the Inasal. And yeah, try their coffee or their not so ordinary beverages. Great concoctions! But if you like Vietnamese coffee and food, try Pao Cafe in Yakal Street. We have been searching for iced coconut coffee which we first tried in Sapa and Hanoi, Vietnam and we’ve found Pao Cafe. They also serve good bentos (tried the roast pork), Bahn mi, spring rolls, and buncha, which we now prefer over the more popular pho (though Pao Cafe serves good pho too). We noticed they also have good cakes and pastries so we’re sure to try those come next visit.

The Annex House in Poblacion, Makati
Bibingka or Puto Bumbong from Cafe Via Mare

One can easily do a cafe crawl within the Poblacion area in Makati. So many choices. It is easy to miss Annex House as it is really a house in what looked like a compound behind a closed gate. But if you’re one who loves to discover new places, here’s a good one for you. They don’t serve hot meals to pair with your coffee but there are buns and pastries. The coffee concoctions are interesting so you can just imagine what they come up with in the cocktails department. Annex House presents itself as a social club — so feel free to drop in for coffee or some pub drinks. But hey, where do you bring your balikbayan friends for good old Filipino dishes and snacks? Cafe Via Mare is one of those default places if only for their bibingka (rice cake), puto Bumbong or halo halo. Priced higher than the average snack shop but if you want a reasonably decent place, and guaranteed good food, this is the place.

Try this from a booth spread all across Manila

Lastly, let me mention Avocadoria. Seen this almost everywhere. A small food booth in many malls. Never gave it a thought till a cousin fetched a cup for me to try. OMG it’s sooo good. I bet it’s packed with calories but trust me, it’s worth all the calories 🤣 I love frozen desserts — halo halo, maiz con hielo, bingsu, kakigori, anything with ice shavings OR ice cream, sorbet, sherbet. Try this sweet ending as an alternative to what you’ve been having thus far. If you love avocados, all the more that you should give this a try. Yum. Won’t regret it. 👍

Update:

Just needed to update to include more value-for-money eats. We need not skip those bonding moments with fam and friends just because dining out can be expensive. There are still many dining spots offering under P500 meals.

Botejyu in Greenbelt 3 or Newport Mall
Bon Pho and Roll in Parqal Mall and Alphaland in Malugay St, Makati
Mamma Kopi Tiam in Glorietta 1
Whenever I visit Makati Med, I almost always drop in in either Banh Mi or Pancake House on 3rd floor
Another Vietnamese restaurant: Old Saigon

Located in Linear Towers at Yakal Corner Mayapis

Remember Ling Nam Noodle House? Now in Grid Co-Living along Yakal Street in San Antonio Village

It’s been awhile since my nieta quit her day job, concentrating only on her art for a living. Without juggling between her passion and her day job, she had more free time to go on dates with her abuela. Not that her art didn’t demand much of her time. It does. But her breaks from painting hours are her happy discovery hours with Mamu. Started off on Tuesdays, then it became Thursdates with the grandma, until it evolved into “Dates With Mu“. Mu is how they call me. Short for Mamu and endearment for Grandma.

Cocktails at Sampiro
Cocktails at Bomb Vinos in Malugay Street

Cafe and Pub Crawl is our thing. Since they graduated into this phase called young adulthood, happy hours have taken in a whole new dimension. And just like me, my young adults enjoy discovering new places. Cafes, pubs or wine bars. Dining spots with the whole, broad spectrum of cheap eats and fine/gourmet dining. I constantly remind them it’s a skill, if not a talent. And there is guaranteed pleasure in the research, discovery and actual experience. The bonus is the euphoria post-experience and the happy memories. Win Win, por supuesto. A whole day to research, another day to experience and another day to reminisce & savor the pleasure. That’s half of the week, without forsaking weekends which are allocated for the entire family.

Degustacion at Metiz
A Birthday Lunch in Beso Beso

Birthdays are special occasions and celebrated several times. 🎂 At least in my family. Food is our love language if one cares for an explanation 😘. And with two celebrants a few weeks apart, you can say we kept ourselves busy. And yes, fancy. I love how the young adults have mastered the art of researching on new and fancy joints. The dining options are very meticulously searched on, to include some trivia on the place, the chef and the food. You bet the last piece of information is the price. You get your adrenaline pumping, grow giddy with the excitement, and then the budget. Such is the price of pleasure. And that’s how I term it. Some people may have the “budget” for all the luxuries, but the capacity for joy is a gift. Fancy dining or cheap eats, our pleasure barometer does not discriminate. But there is obviously an element of bonus pleasure in having to dress up, being politely served and being seated amidst elegant ambience.

A Birthday Lunch at Metronome
A Sunday Dinner at Made Nice in Rockwell

Lest I forget, the “discussions” after the gastronomic adventures are another thing. Judging by how they come up with their IG and TikTok posts, I can tell they take their dining experiences seriously. I have also since created a separate account to chronicle my dining adventures, much like a food diary. That’s upon their suggestion too, even observing that my social life straddles between my travels and dining and museum pleasures. Well, I remind them that isn’t bad. And they might as well throw in my trips to the theater.

La Latina in GB5 for South American Cuisine
Unplanned afternoon at Bondi and Bourke
CCP’s Ignacio Gimenez Theatre

This 2023 is a year marked by so many milestones. In a couple more months, we’d prep to welcome a new year and I just can’t wait to give my yearend update! I know, I’m 2 months early but there is just so much to tell. Or write about. Early on, the year started with health travails within the family. Throughout the year, we’ve learned to manage the heartbreaks and inconveniences. To some extent, we even managed to ignore the problems and carried on celebrating life. At this stage, we felt we just can’t skip nor miss, or worse, waste the opportunities. Life will always have its ups and downs. The challenge lies in how we can stay happy. And hopeful.

Half Full or Half Empty? To see or not to see?
Dead of Winter in Early January in Japan

Started the year with a winter trip to Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. A visiting niece has long wanted and has never been to Japan so I obliged. After all, Japan is always a good idea. Yeah, I was in this land of the sun just last November 2022 and it hasn’t been 2 months yet! And a few months later around spring, I’d find myself back again in the Kansai region with my 2 other nieces. I can’t believe I made 3 trips to Japan in a span of 5 months. Not that I’m complaining. I love Japan.

Trio in Kansai for Sakura
A 3-week trip to Europe

We planned our trip to Europe in between trips to the hospital’s emergency room. One of us got her visa a day before departure. 😩 We were scheduled to arrive late in Amsterdam without a hotel room on our first night. Managed to book a room only from the airport’s departure lounge. All’s well. And the trip turned out to be truly unforgettable with a few mishaps here and there. I traveled with my 2 grandchildren from Amsterdam to Brussels to Brugges to Provence to Paris. The train connections we arranged as we went along.

Up North in Sapa, Vietnam
An unplanned trip to Phuket, Thailand

The trip to northwestern Vietnam was a welcome break amidst all the stress from life’s uncertainties. Never mind that it took 6 hours going from Hanoi to Sapa. If only for the clouds rolling through the mountains carved by rice field terraces, as well as the coffee scene, this trip to Northern Vietnam is worth it. And the impromptu meet-ups in Phuket, Thailand with our OZ branch of the family turned out to be the perfect stress-buster. As they say, when life hands you lemons, make lemonade! Such a lovely time we had basking under the sun and digging our toes in the sand. The holiday resort we stayed in was perfect for us. The resort activities kept us entertained and there was plenty of time to catch up with one another too.

The Grand Homecoming of MC ’73
Reunion

The year 2023 likewise marked the golden jubilee for my college batch. More than 5 decades of friendship. We did well with a yearbook, a beach weekend, trip to a pottery workshop, many luncheons and cocktails, and a lovely video and collage of all our homecoming events. What a blessing to experience all these — reminiscing our teenage years in college and delighting in how we still manage to enjoy each other’s company as we rolled into our 70’s. With some now living abroad, we have missed each other far too long. But it never took that long to pick up where we left off. An old joke persists. An old story repeated countless times.

Degustacion Treat at Metiz
Birthday Lunch at Beso Beso

And the golden jubilarian turning septuagenarian? It all happened in 2023. What a milestone! In our batch, I was the youngest. The last to turn 70. To my elves, I’m ancient. The same elves who treated me to a degustacion in Metiz Restaurant. Not wanting to go home yet after dinner, we lingered at our favorite hotel lobby just chatting till they closed shop. On the very day I turned 70, we had lunch in Beso Beso which translates to “kisses”. A lovely time for the family as we then proceeded to hear Sunday Mass after lunch and indulged in some shopping later, before another family dinner at Made Nice. It was a Sunday, a birthday truly made nice as we stayed together a good part of that day. Quite rare now as everyone gets busy with new jobs, a career, some projects. An opportunity not to be missed. Nor wasted. Memories. Life is a celebration.

Dinner at Made Nice

Happiness

Having “Thursdates with Mu” and apo says Tagaytay gives her Sapa vibes. Sapa in Northern Vietnam was our recent travel together and we still remember that hill town “in the clouds”. Foggy when we arrived in Tagaytay, rainy when we slurped our ramen somewhere in Alfonso, and clear now as we sip our beers. Hello, everyone! Let’s do a field trip / cafe crawl in Tagaytay /Alfonso, Cavite. Apo had a long list of cafes, restos and a brewery to visit, all very neatly plotted on a map. My “trainee” is doing even better than me in the travel research department! On our ride here, we settled on 3 spots in her itinerary. A ramen lunch, a coffee stop and a brewery to check out. Sounds like a good plan?

Dining Al fresco or inside one of these
Edo-inspired wooden houses? This is Surugin Ramen House “deep” in Alfonso, Cavite. Just waze it!
Katsu Curry Ramen & Odori Ramen

Surugin Ramen House reminded me of an Edo town somewhere near Kyoto as we slurped our steaming ramen and devoured the gyoza. It drizzled while we enjoyed our lunch al fresco under a shed. There were just the two of us here on this Thursday though I hear weekends are real busy. As in long queues! Just as well we came on a weekday. Took us all of 2 hours though, driving from Makati. Some portions of the expressways ain’t no express drives. Especially before and soon after the toll exits. Anyway, we “owned” the place so we took the chance to loiter around the gardens and checked out the cottages while waiting for lunch to be served. A pity though that they don’t serve hot tea. The only “flaw” to a good ramen meal. Tsk. Tsk.

Kape’an is some 15 minutes away from Surugin
Kape’an is huge! Perfect for big events.

Post-lunch, we headed to our next stop for some coffee. Frankly, café has been more a dessert for moí lately. The coffee concoctions have been bolder, sweeter and overall more “sinful” unless you settle for a simple, straight-out espresso or good ol’ black coffee. We chose to drink our coffee hot this time, as it started to rain and the temps grew cooler. It even went foggy on our drive here which triggered our Sapa memories. 😍 We were also pleasantly surprised that Kape’an even has a fishpond and a hotel. The sprawling gardens make for perfect spots to enjoy your latté or non-coffee bevs like my “Nut-so-coffee”. We spent more time here than necessary. Drawn to check out the hotel rooms, we walked deep into the estate and passed a pond and several more al fresco coffee spots on our way to the hotel. I can’t believe this hotel existed since 2015! Very well maintained, I must say. We checked out the rooms and found a detached unit that suits a family of 6 or even 8. The unit has a bedroom and a loft (with 4 beds!) plus a sitting room and a kitchenette. I was tempted to book it right away for a family staycation. Staying in shouldn’t be a problem since there’s Kape’an and a restaurant within the hotel compound. The swimming pool looked very inviting too.

The Pond.
Abagatan Ti Manila Hotel

There could have been a couple more stops but we opted to spend more time in this brewery before calling it a day. We’ve heard horror stories about the traffic even on expressways. Papa Bolo Brewery is a revelation. I’ve been to Heineken Brewery in Amsterdam and find that the same experience can be repeated here. The place looks so impressive with all the modern touches. The menu has many offerings and while we’ve tried only 2 kinds of beers, both were good. I can imagine many events taking place here. And seriously? The place looks so inviting with the barrel dining and drinking spots on all 3 floors, each with a view of the glasscased brewery . Then there’s an area where bigger groups can enjoy small parties in comfort with game machines around.

Papa Bolo Brewery in Tagaytay
Beer, anyone? There’s Piña Niña, Cowboy Classic, Fruity Booty and More.

All told, it’s been a good day to discover new places. I’ve always loved Tagaytay. It’s my own “Disneyland” when I was a child. My happy place. Of course, it was way simpler, less busy and not crowded then. I am delighted that there has been many flourishing restos, boutique hotels and shops around here. And the vibrant coffee scene! I only wish the authorities manage this development very well. There have been a lot of blunders in the past administrations but I remain hopeful that local businesses here can be nurtured while made responsible and sustainable. After all, it’s a go-to destination for most tourists as well as locals because of its proximity to Manila. With the traffic even getting worse, I hope for better infrastructure for ease of transport and access for everyone. There’s only one Tagaytay and one Taal Volcano and Lake, the sights of which never fail to mesmerize me. Fell in love with that scene as a child, and still recall a big painting in our living room of the same scene. As a child, I don’t remember a morning that I didn’t look at that painting. Still stuck in my mind. 🥰

For bigger groups

Our catamaran took us on a day trip of Phi Phi and the nearby islands including Maya Beach which was featured in the Leo Di Caprio movie “The Beach” . My second time here. It was a long day of swimming, snorkeling, kayaking, paddle boarding, beer-drinking and beach bumming. Life is a beach indeed. The little boy in our family was most active in all departments except in the beer-drinking. Gave us a scare one moment when we couldn’t find him for some 2 minutes. Turned out someone from the boat crew took him snorkeling a little away from the bunch to a spot with better fish-viewing. The boatman was actually quite impressed with our little man’s swimming and zest for water adventures. Still, we got worried for some moments.

Such clear, turquoise water!
From Country to Country. From Beer to Beer.

It was a long day. We started at 9am and called it a day around 5pm. In and out of water, hopping from island to island, capped by a rocky boat ride on our way back to pier. It was exhausting but so much fun. Family bonding to the core. I couldn’t remember how many island stops we made. There were at least 5. The high temps didn’t even deter us from basking under the sun with a bottle of cold beer or cantaloupe juice in hand. Every so often, the boat crew would serve us slices of sweet pineapple and watermelon. There was also an endless stock of cold drinks from coconut water, cantaloupe, orange and pineapple juice. Lunch was delicious too, buffet-served in a restaurant in one of the islands.

First of Many Dips
Kayaking Family

Family trips are my thing. Staying together 24/7, sharing all meals, enjoying the same outdoor activities and conversations running from the most mundane to random topics like travel blunders and celebrity crushes. This is where and when you get your updates on most everyone especially the younger members of the family. Growing up, their dreams and perspectives are ever changing and the family trips help us keep apprised on their goings-on and evolving characters. As a child, I still recall our fond memories of the family beach outings, picnics, concerts, reunions, sports activities and special dinners and stuff.

Life is a beach!
Water Taxi

Koh Phi Phi is a good island/boat destination but it has also become so popular it seems to have transformed into a party island. Last time I was here was 10 years ago in 2013. Even then, it was kind of busy. I am glad we chose to stay in the quiet part of Phuket. Mai Khao is isolated from the more popular beach resorts and an hour’s drive from the resort town of Patong. Judging by the crowds in the street markets, local beaches and the boat traffic between the nearby islands, the Phuket evenings must be so vibrant and festive, if not noisy. All told, the memories we created here should serve the “little boy” well into adulthood. Likewise with the adults, while smarting from the fatigued muscles gained from all those dips in the water and the tans on their skins! Life is indeed a celebration. 🎉

One rough homebound ride in this Catamaran
One framed souvenir photo for each member of family.

Whenever I get an invite from friends to go on a trip to Bangkok, it’s almost always a “food trip” or more aptly, a “fruit trip” in our minds. I’ve tried going in summer so there are more fruits in season, but the heat and humidity is nearly a curse so I promised myself I’d never go in summer. To welcome October, my niece and I flew into Bangkok on our way to catch a connecting flight to Phuket the next morning. Just time enough to check in our bags at an airport hotel and gorge ourselves on all the fruits we fancy (many we stuffed into our bags flying into Phuket) before calling it a day. Half of our OZ family is waiting for us in a beach resort in Phuket and we are dripping in so much excitement. My niece-in-law who is Thai, her family and ours, are waiting. But first, we “fruitify”. Got that word from my apo’s friend with whom my apo shared the fruit box I prepped whenever I fetched her from school then.

Custard or Sugar Apple, Strawberries, Guapple, Jackfruit, Grapes of all kinds and sizes, Watermelon, And More
My All-Time Favourite along with Persimmons

We also found the time — rather failed to resist — trying Thai curry and seafood pot rice in the mall a short cab ride from our airport hotel. (Incidentally, the spartan but spotty clean airport hotel is one I’d recommend. Nothing fancy but value-for-money for just a night to rest your bodies before an early morning flight. No rush means no anxieties!) Not to forget, have you tried fish flakes with your watermelon? Ours was served that way and it’s an interesting combo.

Watermelon with Fish Flakes
Fruits Galore

From Amari Don Muang Airport to Rangsit Future Park Mall is around 100-120 baht by taxi. There, you can buy as much fruit as you can HARDLY muster. I wanted to try all of them! And the food court offers both cheap and delish samples of Thai cuisine. We tried S&P, which had a good display of bread and pastries we could buy for next day’s breakfast in our room, but ended up sitting for a proper meal. Just be warned: my chicken curry was smoking hot. Even the papaya salad served with it was so spicy. But really good. I’m just warning you to have a glass — or a pitcher — of water ready. 😝

Chicken Curry with Coconut Rice and Papaya Salad
Seafood Pot Rice from S&P

Bellies full, bodies rested, we walked from our airport hotel to Terminal 2 of the domestic airport. In under 15 minutes, we’ve checked in and walked with the robot-sweeper towards our gate. Did I tell you we had a cute-sy budget airplane flying into Phuket? Lookee…..

Don Muang Domestic Airport
Nok Air.

Vietnam is a fascinating state with an equally fascinating history, culture and cuisine. I’ve made at least 4 trips here and this fifth time around, ventured into the mountain areas up in Northwestern Vietnam. I have always enjoyed Vietnamese cuisine and thought I knew enough about it and wrongfully assumed Vietnamese cuisine up in the mountainous areas of Lao Cai are the familiar dishes I found in Ho Chi Minh, Hue, Hoi An, Danang and Hanoi. Wrong! Sa Pa cuisine is a culture in itself. Those hotpots and bamboo rice are no way familiar at all. Fish means either salmon or sturgeon. And meat can be beef, pork, buffalo, (black) chicken, horse or (brace yourself) dog meat. So we made sure we struck off horse and dog meat from the menu. Seriously. It is a vegan paradise though , with an assortment of vegetables and herbs served to us. And if you like fish stew, you’d enjoy these soupy dishes. After a few days, we grew tired of the local cuisine and went in search for Western dishes. Pizza, pasta, meatballs, steaks saved us. All’s well 😉

Sa Pa Cuisine

The French may have influenced gustatory arts in the more cosmopolitan areas but that influence may have fizzled out in the mountain areas of Northern Vietnam. Food was nothing “fancy” but served in great quantities, too much in fact. And I seriously missed my desserts 😞. It’s a good thing the coffee scene was soooo great and the coffee concoctions are truly more desserts than coffee in my book! (Tip: try the coffee shops — ate some real good apple crumble in Le Gecko) Best of all, the mountain sceneries & meet- ups with hill tribes are memorable experiences with all the local colors & flavors (pun intended).

Tribal Women and Bebes In Watercolour

Just click on the blog link below for more photos and details.

Touchdown, Sa Pa

Bac Ha Sunday Market

Fansipan Adventure

Dining in Hanoi

Glass Bridge

Cafe Crawl in Sa Pa

Red Dao Herbal Baths & Moana

Bun Cha OBAMA

Coffee Scene in Hanoi

A Museum, More Cafes, Sky Bar

ENJOY!


We are back in Hanoi and still seriously in search for the best egg coffee — and where else should we look but where it all started? First discovered, or rather concocted in 1925, when an ex-bartender of the famous 5-star Metropole Hotel thought of substituting fresh milk with egg to make Hanoi’s “cappuccino”. It was the perfect solution at a time when milk was a luxury and scarce. Only problem then was that it took an entire half hour to beat the high-quality free-range eggs to make a cup of egg coffee! Thankfully, the egg blenders have made this tedious process a thing of the past now. It can only be expected that the man — Nguyen Van Giang — who created and introduced the egg coffee runs the best egg coffee place in Hanoi. Still in the same unpretentious building and yes, still the same recipe but likely using egg blenders. For the life of me, I was kind of hesitant to try raw egg yolks in my coffee but Mr. Giang’s recipe reportedly uses only eggs from free-range hens fed on natural food! They say there’s a secret ingredient but I bet Mr. Giang shared that with his daughter who now runs the 2nd best egg coffee shop “Dinh Cafe”.

Egg Coffee. One with cinnamon.
We took a Grab to reach Cafe Giang

Since we’ve already tried the iced coconut coffee of Cong Ca Phe when we were in Sapa, Northern Vietnam, we skipped their Hanoi outlet and instead booked another grab ride to arrive in the Hidden Gem Cafe. Truly hidden! The narrow alley snaked past a garage and two flights of stairs. But we’re so happy to be here. Amazing how the owner recycled so much stuff and seamlessly put them all together here. Here, we tried the sticky rice iced coffee, a good looking lemonade with blue tea and an iced coconut coffee. Their bahn mi and rolls may not be the best but they’d do if you’re hungry. It simply is exciting to be in this spot which we found bohemian and artsy. Just be sure you beat the crowds by coming real early or at odd hours. I’m sure it gets busy and because it’s not air conditioned, you may not get the spot we had where there’s a breeze to ward off the heat.

The Hidden Gem Cafe
Lemonade with Blue Tea

This coffee place didn’t waste any walls nor corners. There was always something going on on some walls — a mural, a garden, something both artistic and odd. The 2 flights of stairs get you on the 3rd floor that’s more “al fresco”. Better than the 2nd floor which we found more stuffy. I am not sure we’d find this place on our own. Booking a grab ride was easy and real cheap! So install that app if you haven’t.

More Iced Coconut Coffee?
Bahn Mi and Rolls at Hidden Gem Cafe

But in case you haven’t tried Iced Coconut Coffee — that modern-day concoction of coffee, coconut cream, milk and ice cream — there are several outlets of Cong Ca Phe in Hanoi. Choose one nearest you, and have that iced coconut coffee fix! This time, feel the communist vibe here with the cafe’s military-green walls, a server clad in military uniform and comm posters straight out of the 1970s to instill that vibe! Mind you, we had the best iced coconut coffee here. Oh, there’s the green rice coconut coffee too which I particularly liked. More like a dessert. Enjoy ☕️ 🧋

Cong Ca Phe
Hidden Gem Cafe

Parts Unknown by Anthony Bourdain is one of my fav shows. Lamentably, Tony is no longer around to guide us. Not only in terms of what and where to eat, but on how to appreciate food in the context of culture and even traditions. One show on Hanoi food adventure is that one where Bourdain dined in some honky-tonk joint with no less than THE PRESIDENT OBAMA. So what do you expect from a food show that features a dinner date between Tony and Barack?

Bun Cha

I remember searching for a pho joint in Ho Cho Minh City whose claim to fame is that President Bill Clinton happened to eat there. Pho 2000 isn’t bad but I’d say food taste is really just your average Joe. Or average Huy or Nam, if you like. And now, there’s Bun Cha Huong Lien. But first a lesson on what is pho vs Bun Cha. Pho is a noodle soup while bun cha is more dry. Like having barbecued pork over your vermicelli plus some really, really good broth flavoured with sweetened vinegar and fish sauce. I love bun cha!

They call it Combo Obama👌
The Combo Obama goes with this Seafood Roll

Price-wise, this joint is a winner. You can’t go wrong at these unbelievably low prices for some truly good soupy dishes. And the servings are soooo generous. The veggies and vermicelli are all laid out on a platter even before you order anything. I guess the veggies and thin noodles go with anything you order. Go help yourselves, folks. Just don’t expect fancy tableware nor linen service 😂 . Service is not impeccable but fairly prompt and standard. Honky tonk that it is, we actually enjoyed the same bun Cha and Combo Obama that Barack and Tony Bourdain enjoyed. Value for money it is.

Bun Cha 👌

Oh, btw, “bun” in Vietnam means vermicelli and “cha” means grilled pork. Bun Cha is one of the iconic dishes here in Vietnam and certainly worth a try! And once you’re done eating, how about going up to the upper floor to check out the glass-encased box on display where Obama and Bourdain ate their bun Cha along with their dining sets and tiny stools. Such is Bun Cha Huong Lien’s claim to fame. Enjoy!