Tag Archive: Shinjuku



This is my neighbourhood. It’s a bit off the CBD, perhaps a couple of blocks. But here lies a slice of Japan with a cluster of izakayas serving authentic Japanese food with price tags ranging from quite cheap to pricey. Makati Cinema Square is now called Makati Central Square, MCS for short. Within this old mall are many tiny Japanese restos, the most popular of which is Manmaru. That is, judging by the queues nearly every mealtime outside this Japanese eatery. A few more restos within the same mall is Unakichi (entrance near Mcdo and KFC area) which specializes in unagi and Sakura Yakiniku (near Unakichi) and Yakiniku Kenshin (beside Manmaru). There is also our fav Wabi Sabi (2nd floor above Kenshin) for vegetarian ramen, dumplings and homemade ice cream. From MCS, we step out and cross the street towards LITTLE TOKYO which is another cluster of izakayas with a truly Japanese vibe. The Torii gate, narrow alley lined with red lanterns look more Japanese in the evenings when the lanterns are lighted and the courtyard seems more festive with banners.

It’s easy to miss it but this Torii gate is just across Manmaru in Makati Central Square
Behind the Torii gate is this narrow alley
towards the izakayas.

Within Little Tokyo, the most popular and my personal favorite is Kikufuji whose entrance fronts the main road (Chino Roces Avenue), and for ramen, there is Shinjuku. Both are iconic izakayas in the Little Tokyo area fronting the main road and must have stood there for at least 2 decades along with Hana which is situated in the inner “courtyard”. Parking is always a challenge so I’d advise parking in the MCS basement and just walking across to Little Tokyo.

Izakaya Kikufuji may look rundown but it consistently ranks among the best izakayas in Makati.
Hana is in the interior part of Little Tokyo and is one of the 2 oldest izakayas there.

Inside Little Tokyo, you may choose to go for simple snacks like takoyaki, kakigori (flavored ice shavings), okonomiyaki (pan cake) or have serious yakiniku or bento boxes. Plenty of choices here. Menus are on display by the izakaya’s door so there shouldn’t be any surprises especially if one is on a budget. You may also opt for al fresco lunch or dinner or step into the tiny air conditioned spaces. I have tried Kikufuji, Shinjuku, Yakiniku, Hana and Oishinbo in the Little Tokyo cluster. Pricing observes a wide range as it largely depends on what you order. Less expensive would be the rice bowls or rice toppings, called donburi. Ask also if they have set meals which are really combo meals to include your chosen dish, miso soup, pickles, rice and sometimes a drink. There are a few more izakayas waiting for me to try. 😁

Oishinbo in INSIDE Little Tokyo
Inside Hana

Seryna is also quite popular. It is right beside the Torii gate entrance and across Manmaru in MCS. But my personal favorite remains to be Kikufuji — love those wagyu cubes and sushi. Just that it is always fully booked so I always end up settling for Shinjuku ramen or one of those bento boxes in either Hana or Oishinbo. Unless of course I’m craving for unagi which means crossing towards MCS’ Unakichi. As for Manmaru, I’d rather order online (via Grab) than braving those long lines!

Wagyu Cubes from Kikufuji
Little Tokyo at Night

The latest addition to this izakaya cluster is EDOYA. It is right beside Seryna and a Japanese grocery store and right across Manmaru housed in Makati Central Square. Some of the food we ordered tasted good but they’re still on soft opening when we visited so the service can actually be improved. It took a while for our food to be served. Also, we stayed in one of the cubicles on the 2nd floor and we found the acoustic properties of the place to be problematic. I hope they do something about this because the place looks nice and we’re willing to give the Resto a second chance. The iced coffee bevs are ok but we were frustrated that none of their ice shaving desserts were available. I promise to dine there a 2nd time and update this blog. So there. 😉

EDOYA
EDOYA

Been here countless times, each time with someone visiting Japan for the first time. That means checking out all spots in a tourist’s itinerary and getting “trapped” in camera-touting crowds. I wrongfully assumed that the crowds would have thinned because it’s winter but obviously that idea is way off. Shinjuku, Shibuya, Asakusa, Ginza, Harajuku, to name a few. There wasn’t even enough time in the 5 days we were in the capital to check out Odaiba or Roppongi!

Memory Lane or Piss Alley?
Mt. Fuji and the Metropolis

Our hotel was in Shinjuku area right across the Observatory at the top of Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building. Quite a surprise to view Mt. Fuji very clearly from many of its glass windows, sans any clouds. As they say, the great dame makes a solid appearance come winter time. A short walk from here is the Shinjuku JR Station which is right next to an alley fondly referred to as Memory Lane as it’s been there since the 1940s after the war. It is now called Omoide Yokocho, home to some 60 bars and food stalls. Not exactly the comfiest place to have a proper meal but if you’re into a few drinks and bar food like “anything grilled” and some seafood, it’s the place. Claim your stools and enjoy. We had a marvellous time drinking and dining with 3 young Aussies and a couple of locals who love raising their glasses, shouting Kampai! Even the bar hostess grilling and serving our drinks looked like having a good time with us.

Sensoji Temple

Now, if you want to do some temple and shrine-spotting, don’t miss Sensoji Temple in Asakusa. The way to the temple is far from spiritual though as crowds mill around the many souvenir and snack booths. But if it’s serious shopping you plan to do, there’s Harajuku, Ginza and Shibuya-jungamae. Well frankly, there’s more but for this trip we only managed these spots. The alley in Takeshita-Dori right across the JR Harajuku Station caters to the younger set while the other two have shops with more variety. Some signature shops can be found there as well, and we were lucky to find Louis Vuitton’s pop up store in collab with Japanese renowned contemporary artist Yayoi Kusama in Jungamae. The installations were fantastic and somehow, the experience made up for my missing out on a visit to the artist’s museum in Tokyo.

Tokyo is for the young. I still can’t get used to the rushing subway crowd and the so many confusing exits at every train station. My heart pumps nearly out of my chest each time, right through the ride standing toe to toe during rush hours and heaving a sigh of relief only upon exiting. Maybe that explains why and how we ended up taking the Shinkansen with our green pass to savor country air in the less touristy spots.

Yayoi Everywhere


Yayoi Kusama Museum in Tokyo in my list but no way I could just drop in as the Museum is fully booked the entire week we were in Tokyo. Bummer. But some days you get lucky. It just so happened that Louis Vuitton has set up a pop-up store in Harajuku, Tokyo to showcase its 2nd collaboration with the renowned Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama. The store is near the JR Harajuku Station’s Takeshita Exit and runs till January 22, 2023.

Louis Vuitton in collab with Yayoi Kusama

Unmistakably Yayoi with the ubiquitous polka dots, the fashion house truly outdid itself. The space has a lifelike sculpture of the famous contemporary artist wearing the distinctive yellow and black polka dotted shirt to contrast her signature red hair. Her designs are carried in LV’s bags and other leather products, RTWs, accessories and even perfumes. In a separate space, one finds mirrored balls and other installations. All these I enjoyed without having to buy anything from the pop-up store nor even from the permanent LV Store which I likewise visited. I would have wanted to but the price tags gave me a migraine. 😉

Our luck held on till the next day when we visited the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building’s Observatory. A grand piano bearing Yayoi’s polka dot design sits in one corner of the top floor, inviting visitors to try their hand and play a tune. So, if you’re visiting Tokyo after January 22, you can view Yayoi Kusama-inspired installations in any of the permanent LV stores or pop in at the Tokyo Met Government’s Observatory in Shinjuku.