Tag Archive: Scotland



Summer officially ended while we were on our train ride from sunny Liverpool towards the capital of Scotland. We chose Edinburgh for many reasons. Many (free) museums. Culture. Scotch Whisky. Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace. Harry Potter. Bagpipes and men in kilt! But all throughout our stay here, we experienced overcast skies and showers every now and then. Wet and cold in Edinburgh but we’re not complaining. Behind our apartment is the Holyrood Park and Arthur’s Seat beckons. Many young hikers all geared up for the hike, some with their fur babies — and I only managed to watch them while sipping coffee and enjoying scones in the Holyrood Cafe by the Palace.

Vennel Steps @Grassmarket
Holyrood Palace

The Scottish pride left me with a good impression 38 years ago. I just love how they feel proud of their independence and their national icons. Alexander Graham Bell, Robert Burns, Alexander Fleming and the more contemporary Andy Murray and Sean Connery of 007 fame. J.K. Rowlings is British but she drew inspiration from many spots around Edinburgh for her 7-volume Harry Potter books. In fact there were way too many Harry Potter tours around here to show visitors the Elephant House, the self-proclaimed birthplace of Harry Potter. The Greyfriar Kirkyard, the burial site of Thomas Riddle aka Lord Vxxxx “who must not be named”. (Rowlings picked out names from the graves here, and no one knows who this Thomas is). The beautiful Victoria Street emerged in her imaginary Diagon Alley and you’d be surprised how many wands they sell around here. Plus many more.

The hike to Arthur’s Seat
Victoria Street

But it would be a waste to miss the Scottish Museum of Modern Art (there were 2 across each other).A tad distant from the center with a wide expanse around the buildings. Then there’s also the National Gallery of Scotland and the Portraits Gallery. If it were sunny or at the very least rainless, it would be nice to lay out a picnic mat and just chill. I noticed though that all the flat whites and hot chocolates I drank in the museums were all good! And yes, their scones, muffins and brownies were too. One lunch we had (and repeated) was in Rock Salt Cafe along Jeffrey Street. The Scottish Breakfast was truly a big brekkie with ham, eggs, hash brown, haggis, sausage, black pudding, pork and beans and the thickest slices of really good sourdough. If that is not enough, let’s see if you can resist their baklava and other yummy pastries.

The Scottish MUSEUM OF MODERN ART
If you visit the National Gallery of Scotland , it’s a short distance to get here. So is the Scott Monument

So there. Edinburgh may give you a lot of rain or spoil your mood but there are always the museos and the good food waiting for you. From big breakfasts to the national dish of Scotland called haggis, to the many pubs serving draught beer or whisky bars, to the many gelato and pastry shops! Many housed in century old apartment buildings.

Scottish Breakfass at Rock Salt Cafe
The gelato flavors from Mary’s Milk Bar

It’s been 38 years and finally, I’m back. Hardly had any photos back in 1986 and visited only a few sites then — pre-digicams, no Google maps, no uber. This time around, we’ve pre-booked our train rides, apartment, Johnnie Walker experience and tours of the Old Town and New Town for 2 straight days and left the other days for whatever we fancy doing at the moment. It’s only Day 2 and we have 2 more days to go. But my legs are up from all that walking uphill and downhill and my arms are sore holding an umbrella up. I promise to wear a raincoat tomorrow if it still rains! Or maybe we should do the Museums when the weather doesn’t cooperate.

First Order of the Day: Johnnie Walker
Next Order: Haggis, Neeps and Tatties

As soon as we got off the train and dropped our bags in our rented apartment, we took the road via the nearby Holyrood Park and booked a ride to the Johnnie Walker Shop for a tour much like the one we did in Amsterdam. Enjoyed the history and the rest of the Scotch Whisky tasting experience. One even takes a “quiz” so you can enjoy your own “blend”. Personalized. Customized. Enough to rev up our appetite for a dinner of haggis with neeps and tatties, steak pies, fish and chips at the Tolbooth Tavern which has stood the test of time the last 200 years. The next day we found another 200 year old lunch place — easy to do here in Edinburgh. Old is in vogue so it’s quite interesting to try “new things” in this Scottish capital. Like the Harry Potter tours. But please… no ghost tours for me.

Diagon Alley inspired by Victoria Street
Elephant House is the “birthplace” of Harry Potter. A cafe where J.K. Rowling wrote the famous series.

But if you ask me, I like best the strolls around Dean Village by the water of Leith, and the park around Scott’s Monument. And yes, the view of Edinburgh Castle from the Vennel Steps is one of the unbeatable shots. Just be prepared to scale those steps! And when visiting Holyrood Palace, check out the Holyrood Park and meet new canine friends who enjoy all the grassy space. As for Arthur’s Seat — I have watched “One Day”, both the movie starring Anne Hathaway and the series (which I prefer), but I’m still not convinced I’d like to do this hike. But then again, we still have 2 more days. Between the hike and the museums here, you know where the preferences lie.

Scott’s Monument

Dean’s Village in New Town

Edinburgh Castle

Thought I’d stay home today. It’s Friday the 13th.  So. Where’s Freddy Krueger?

“When the joints ache,

when the hips break,

When the eyes grow dim,

Then I remember the great life I’ve had,

And then I don’t feel so bad.”

The other day, I thought of my favorite things.  Feeling “Julie Andrews”.  More so when I had to fetch my granddaughter from swim school with my red umbrella. 😀  But really, just thinking of all my favorite things busts any lists.   Even thinking of my favorite “travel-related” things or events or moments can easily fill up a list. No Top Ten list for me here.  It just wouldn’t be fair.  There were far too many random acts of kindness here and all over the world that I still vividly remember to this day.  And these were random acts of kindness from strangers.  Complete strangers.  I did not even bother to get their names.  The ones I got, I promptly forgot. Quick kind acts;  instant good deeds. As the good book says:   ASK, BELIEVE AND CLAIM!  You guys pray for angels before and while traveling? I do. All the time.  And it never fails to amaze me the many shapes, forms and “colors” of the angels sent my way.

No Top 10 List.  But 2 stand out, worthy of mention.

Back in 1986. I was in Scotland for a weekend. Right in the middle of winter.  Trained in from Bradford, England.  Walked around Inverness and decided to join this local tour around Loch Ness.  You know, that famous monster the size of a dinosaur that claimed a whole lake as its official residence?  Well, Nessie the Monster that was. Or is.  The local tour cost me £7 back in ’86.  Not cheap ,  based on my cash-starved pockets at the time.   I was sleeping in pension houses for only £8 a day (low season), and that goes with that very heavy English (or Scottish)  breakfast which is about the only proper meal of the day for me.

The local tour is like a family outing.  The driver cum tour guide with his blue van, and all 8 of us “kids” at the back. Yeah, that’s how he called us.  He, without a name.  Lol. Sounds like a Lord Voldemort line from Harry Potter. 🙂 But he was really a nice guy, acting out like a dad to us “kids”.  He made 2 stops before proceeding to the lake.  He also divided us into 2 groups of 4 members each.  Each group was given a grocery list.  I was with the 1st group, and promptly took over the shopping assignment.  Bread, cheese and some cold cuts.   The 2nd group was assigned to take care of the drinks.  Hot choco, water and orange juice.  We were having a picnic by the lake………IN WINTER!

Have I managed to bore you with all these details?  Alright, I’d get on with it.  The local tour guide finished his job. We who paid £7 each were satisfied.  When it was over,  he who has no name invited me and another Fil-Am, and a Brazilian to his house for lunch.  Not one to pass up a free meal (cheapskate!),  we accepted the invitation without thinking why we 3 were singled out and the other 5 were not invited.  It was a simple but filling lunch. Some kind of meat loaf dished out by his charming, hospitable wife who was just as surprised as we were to be invited to their home. Over cups of steaming hot tea (with milk),  he who has no name told us a story.  He used to be with the army.  Had stints in the Philippines and somewhere in South America (not Brazil).   He said he met locals who have shown him random acts of kindness which he will never forget.  Not much details.  But there it was, pure sincerity.   And then, he fishes wads of bills from his pocket and told us not to take offense but he would be returning our payment of £7 each.  He said it was the only way he knew how to return the “favor”.   Imagine that!  I got a free tour, a picnic and a free lunch.   Yet more than that is what stuck in my mind. All these years,  I have been conscious of the chances, the opportunities to “return the favor”.   Let those random acts of kindness roll…………all around the world.

Nanjing Misadventure

The 2nd random act of kindness happened in Nanjing, China.  Yes,  that’s where I had this freaky accident.  But I don’t want to spoil my Scotland monologue with this 2nd story.  Perhaps you should read it another time.  Dwell on the Scotland story and he who has no name.   If I can sketch,  I can illustrate every facial feature of this kind charming man. Think about it.  He was my angel.  The girl who has the knack for ending up with her last US$20 in her pocket back in those days.  Or take weekend trips at the height of winter because lodgings and tours are way cheaper then. A sucker for low-season deals.

When you’re done and care to know the 2nd story,  come read about my Nanjing Misadventure.  

P.S. Back in those pre-digicam days, I took very few photos of my trip because having the films developed cost a fortune.  I also had with me the cheapest camera you can find, as these blurry photos show.  But I wrote my travel journals even then.  Diaries. That’s what they were called.  Not blogs. After many years, I am now able to publish them! What’s that? I should keep it private? TMI? Who cares? I’m too old to keep secrets.   🙂