Tag Archive: Madrid



Live like it’s the last day of your life? Naaah. If that’s my mantra, I’d likely just stay home and spend time with family. Or pray in a convent or church.

 

I live like there are many days ahead to celebrate life. I go to the Prado and take in just a few. Knowing there would be other days to enjoy more. Leisurely. No rush. I visit Barcelona for a weekend thinking there would be many more weekends to spend there. I love visiting and revisiting places I enjoyed. That explains why I take photos in the exact same places where I had my photos taken years ago. The unwanted pounds. The unwanted lines and wrinkles. Little reminders of time past. Who cares? I’m enjoying life. Without the rush.

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It’s not that I recommend it, but more than a few times I find myself buying a ticket from a vending machine to catch a train departing in less than 5 minutes. Imagine the thrill of brisk walking to the escalators, down to the ramps or platform, and hearing the train doors close behind you after having just hopped in.

 

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And how about the excitement of reaching your destination? No matter how much you’ve read up on the place, I like the momentary ignorance and madness of deciding which way to go out of the train or bus station. Do I turn right, left or go straight? When I went to Aranjuez, I wondered whether I’m getting off in the middle of a forest. That’s how it looked just before the train stopped and I heard the announcement that we have reached Aranjuez. I walked for about 10 minutes to reach the Royal Palace and Gardens. No one to ask as most others who got off the train took the bus or were fetched by friends or relatives. It would feel the same way going to Valle de Los Caidos, except that most bus passengers are likely tourists like you too.

 

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Fortunately, Spain has a superb transport system. The Metro, regional trains, fast trains, buses are all so easy to deal with. And clean! I also found the Spanish very friendly and helpful. Once, there was this middle-aged lady who actually walked with me for some blocks till the last corner just before my destination. In Alcala de Henares, the young students tried to be very precise with their directions (a plaza or square lined with plane trees, a building with many columns, a house with bronze statues and a fountain, etc).

 

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It helps that google allows me to do virtual tours and obtain directions. While I do get maps and check out the attractions in each place, I always seek to get images of the palaces, museums, parks or whatever else I intend to visit. This allows me to easily “spot” the sites I intend to visit.

 

 

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What I love about traveling solo is I get to linger longer in places I like, and eat whenever it suits me. The only drawback is that I don’t get to eat all I like. I mean, you can only order so much for yourself, right? No one to share with. My routine is normally to eat small portions but more often, so I get a variety of the foods I’d like to try without appearing like a glutton.

 

 

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Good research, with lots of allowances for spontaneity, and a good pair of walking shoes. Or boots to keep those walking legs warm when the temp drops. This is important. No way I’m walking anywhere unless I have comfortable footwear. Many make this mistake of looking fashionable rather than comfortable. Trust me, they are not mutually exclusive.

 

 

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So who says you’re too old to travel solo? I have no talent in the kitchen. Just survival cooking for moí. I’m pretty neat at home but it’s not like I enjoy domestic chores. I love to read, but my pocketbooks travel with me. A bench in the park and a cup of good brew make perfect companions. I get my adrenaline rush chasing trains, snapping photos and eating local delicacies. When I am home, I am more likely doing my “research” or blogging rather than busy with my knitting needles. C’est la vie! 😉😉😉

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Why ever not? Stayed away from my beloved pig for some weeks since Segovia. Time to have that memorable moment to savor before going home to Manila.

 

 

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Casa Botin or Sobrinos de Botin is in the Guinness Book of Records as the OLDEST RESTAURANT in continuous operation in the world. Established in 1725, its claim to fame is even bolstered by an endorsement from no less than Ernest Hemingway who once said the place serves the best cochinillo. Like Hemingway, many Spanish and Western authors have been lured to this place and actually had the restaurant as setting in their novels.

 

 

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Be warned though. The place is a tourist trap. Make sure you have reservations. Decide whether you’re having the suckling pig or the suckling lamb. Both are good. And if you’re a party of say 4pax, you can actually share a couple of cochinillo and an order of Cordero. Tell the waiter you are sharing and they’d take care of splitting the 3 orders into 4 platefuls of the coveted meat. Then share a pitcher of sangria or a bottle of house wine. No sense ordering the set menu of €43 per pax when the included dessert is just some dollop of ice cream. And if you’re skipping dessert, you might as well order the morcilla from Burgos for appetizers, if you like.

 

 

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After your Botin dinner, walk off all that cholesterol to the Mercado de San Miguel for errrrr…… more cholesterol. There’s a bounty of choices here. Nougats or turrones, crema de Catalan, meringues, yogurt, etc. And if by chance you’re able to work up an appetite other than for desserts, visit this TV guy named Senen and check out his tortilla española. Buen Provecho!

 

 

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How best to spend €3? Buy a ticket to the Museo Sorolla!

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This is the house where the great Spanish painter Joaquin Sorolla lived with his lovely wife and muse Clotilde. This is where he painted in his spacious, lovely studio. Imagine the great painter here with his wife and 3 lovely children. And the gardens!

 

 

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Joaquin and Clotilde make for a truly handsome couple. Judging by their portraits, they seem to be so much in love! There is a sala exclusively for Clotilde. The Spanish Master was truly inspired to paint this lovely sitter! And their children….. my favorite is Sorolla’s painting of Clotilde and the baby. So much love and warmth there. . . . . in an expanse of white blanket!

 

 

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Have you ever been to a house with so much good vibes? For a Spanish villa this size, it’s amazing how all those positive vibes of love and adoration seem to be in the air all throughout the Casa!

 

 

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If you’re planning to visit, bring a book to read in the lovely garden. It’s not big, but I absolutely enjoyed the villa’s tiny but well-appointed garden. Hard to believe it’s just off a busy street in the city. Come to think of it, you may enjoy the garden without even paying the €3. The admission fee is for viewing the artworks inside the lovely villa. But please don’t scrimp on this one. When you come out of the villa after viewing Sorolla’s paintings and appreciating the beauty of his former art studio and residence, you’d actually be feeling good. There is something so “positive” inside that house that is worth more than the measly fee you paid.

 

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It was the day before my homeward journey. Weather forecast is cloudy, rainy day. So I made up my mind to stay home and start packing. Alas, the sun’s out by noontime! Packing can wait. And my itchy feet won’t.

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While in line to enter one of the smaller museums in Madrid, I met this French mom and daughter tandem who told me about their trip to this university town. Alcala de Henares, just a half hour €3.20 trip by Cercanias train from Madrid’s Atocha Renfe Station. I love university towns! It also happens to be the birthplace of Miguel Cervantes of the Don Quixote fame. That’s it. I must go.

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Glad I had a hearty breakfast. Lunch can wait. After all, this is Spain! When I got to Atocha Renfe Station, the train to Alcala is scheduled to leave in 5 minutes. I was fidgety as the lady before me couldn’t make up her mind. I made it with a minute to go. This is getting to be a habit! After a few stops, we reached the university town where Miguel Cervantes was born. Just a 10 minute walk from the train station to Plaza Cervantes.

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It’s a lovely plaza. In the middle is a bronze statue of the town’s favorite son and a kiosk with intricate ironworks. Around the plaza are old brick buildings and churches with spires now serving as havens for resident storks. I sat on a bench and took pleasure just watching the storks going about their business in their “residential nests” and flitting from one rooftop or spire to the next. It’s a community of storks here in Alcala de Henares!

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From the Plaza, I walked along Calle Mayor towards Casa Cervantes where the famous Don Quixote author lived. It’s a beautiful house, well-preserved with many interesting memorabilia. And it’s free! The bronze statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza seated on a bench right in front of the house was a hit with tourists.

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All around, it’s as if Cervantes still lives among the young population of university students. Young men and women manning tourist bureaus, souvenir shops, coffee bars, theaters. And the storks! Just look up and you’re bound to find their nests on rooftops and church spires. The Archbishop’s Palace is a favorite among these resident storks and it’s a challenge to find them in between the gargoyles!

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It was an afternoon well-spent in Alcala de Henares. And guess what….. I took the train ticket- dispensing machine at the station with a minute to go!

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I only meant to walk off all those chocolate bars I ate. Perhaps even contemplate a little after visiting a convent. No camera strung around my neck. Today I’m a local enjoying Madrid’s gardens and parks. I tried talking to Siri but she just kept misunderstanding every word I said. I finally gave up.

 

 

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From Atocha Station, I crossed the street towards Prado. As I passed the Botanical Garden, I glimpsed tulips in lively colors and knew I couldn’t skip a visit here. Yellow, deep red, pink, even purple! From the flower gardens to the forest of trees surrounding a pond, the tranquility of spending a good hour here is just what I need. I only wish I brought my book!

 

 

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Siri, who couldn’t understand a word of what I’m saying 😄 proved handy as I snapped photos with my iPhone cam. From the Botanical Garden, I strolled towards the Iglesia de San Jeronimo. A lovely church especially at night when it is illuminated as a perfect background to the Prado Museum. Turning right as I passed the church, I crossed the street to enter Parque de Retiro. This park is more easily accessed from the Metro Line 2 (Red) Retiro Station, but if you’re guilty over some chocolate pleasures lately, it’s a better, longer stroll from this gate towards the metro station.

 

 

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Rather than walk straight towards the boating lake, I strolled off towards Palacio Cristal. There is a smaller, charming pond here complete with geese hungry for potato chips and cheese curls. I saw some tourists feeding them such and I can’t say that’s good for these geese. With the same iPhone cam, I took a video of a street artist whose music is so apt for a lazy afternoon like now.

 

 

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Finally, I passed the boating lake till I reached the Retiro Station for my metro ride home. But not without stopping for a snapshot of Plaza de la Independencia and Puerta de Alcala. Not the best shot as it is against the light. But who’s complaining? Siri was such a lovely companion today. Esta bien!

 

 

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I only meant to walk off all those chocolate bars I ate. Perhaps even contemplate a little after visiting a convent. No camera strung around my neck. Today I’m a local enjoying Madrid’s gardens and parks. I tried talking to Siri but she just kept misunderstanding every word I said. I finally gave up.

 

 

20120502-204055.jpg

 

 

From Atocha Station, I crossed the street towards Prado. As I passed the Botanical Garden, I glimpsed tulips in lively colors and knew I couldn’t skip a visit here. Yellow, deep red, pink, even purple! From the flower gardens to the forest of trees surrounding a pond, the tranquility of spending a good hour here is just what I need. I only wish I brought my book!

 

 

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Siri, who couldn’t understand a word of what I’m saying 😄 proved handy as I snapped photos with my iPhone cam. From the Botanical Garden, I strolled towards the Iglesia de San Jeronimo. A lovely church especially at night when it is illuminated as a perfect background to the Prado Museum. Turning right as I passed the church, I crossed the street to enter Parque de Retiro. This park is more easily accessed from the Metro Line 2 (Red) Retiro Station, but if you’re guilty over some chocolate pleasures lately, it’s a better, longer stroll from this gate towards the metro station.

 

 

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Rather than walk straight towards the boating lake, I strolled off towards Palacio Cristal. There is a smaller, charming pond here complete with geese hungry for potato chips and cheese curls. I saw some tourists feeding them such and I can’t say that’s good for these geese. With the same iPhone cam, I took a video of a street artist whose music is so apt for a lazy afternoon like now.

 

 

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Finally, I passed the boating lake till I reached the Retiro Station for my metro ride home. But not without stopping for a snapshot of Plaza de la Independencia and Puerta de Alcala. Not the best shot as it is against the light. But who’s complaining? Siri was such a lovely companion today. Esta bien!

 

 

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If you can enjoy Madrid without shelling a euro, why ever NOT? This blog will hopefully guide you to enjoy Madrid without shelling a euro.

 

 

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My best freebie experience in Madrid is my visit to the Senado. I sent an email requesting permission to view Juan Luna’s “Battle of Lepanto”. My blog on this adventure speaks of my Filipino pride. Juan Luna has that effect on us.

 

 

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From the Senado, you can switch to that most remarkable Spanish Master whose art evolved through the years. Take the Metro to Principe Pio. Off the beaten path, but your interest would peak just knowing that Goya is buried here in Ermita de San Antonio off Paseo de Florida. Headless. His frescoes on the dome is Madrid’s mini- Sistine Chapel. Do check out my blog on this Goya adventure.

 

 

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Need some air? Have a small picnic at the Parque de Retiro. Off the Retiro Station, have a glimpse of Plaza de la Independencia before strolling off to the Park. It is a huge park. I easily spent 2 hours walking, sitting, reading here. I wished I brought a sandwich and a thermo jug of good brew. Perhaps next time.

 

 

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Luna and Goya. Then a relaxing afternoon and picnic at the Retiro Park. Not bad. It doesn’t end there. More freebies in store for you. 😊By 5pm, start moving your ass to get back on the metro for a ride to Banco de España from where you can begin your paseo along Paseo del Prado. Prado Museum is free from 6 pm onwards. On the other hand —- just a few hundred meters away —- the Museo del Reina Sofia is free from 7pm till closing time at 9pm. I would suggest you don’t view the exhibits in one go. After all, it’s free so what’s the rush? Just make sure you don’t go on those days the museums are closed. But if you only have a day and want to enjoy these freebies, you’d be fine restricting yourself to the Prado. Stay till closing time to leisurely view the works of art of the Spanish Masters.

 

 

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Have another day to spend without spending? Well, you can always go back to Museo de Reina Sofia (6-8pm) or there’s Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol and the Cathedral of Almudena. The last 3 make for a great photowalk. Don’t forget to visit the crypt beside the Almudena Church! And if there’s still time, go sit in any of the parks near Almudena Church and Palacio Real. Sabatini Garden and Plaza del Oriente invite you to simply relax and catch your breath while enjoying great views. If you’re lucky, you can even witness the changing of the guards. Or the changing of the royal horses. Both are great spectacles!


I kept putting it off. I have this nagging thought that Reina Sofia pales in comparison to Thyssen and Prado. That there isn’t much beyond Guernica. That in all likelihood, I probably wouldn’t even enjoy Guernica as I’m not crazy about abstracts, cubism nor surrealism.

 

 

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A visit drew an unexpected surprise. Salvador Dali. His “muchachas” paintings soon became my and my niece’s favorites. Somehow, I enjoy the mystery of seeing “backs”, thinking what the sitter is thinking…….. This comes as a big surprise to amateurish me. I mean, dummy that I am when it comes to art, I honestly thought Dali only delved in surrealism. Not my cup of tea. Seeing the muchachas paintings struck a chord in me. I’m sure my niece felt the same way too.

 

 

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How about you? What do you think are they thinking? Were the sitters pretty? Were the muchachas young, middle-aged or old? How about this painting of another remarkable artist — Balbuena’s Desnudo — in the same hall as Dali’s two muchachas.

 


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I spent so much more time in this hall. Longer than the time I spent viewing the Guernica where there is a thick crowd. Somehow, I feel many just visited to see the Guernica. Well…. It is really all a matter of preference. As for me, I have made up my mind. These 3 paintings rank high in my list.

 

 

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In those days, monarchy may have spelled POWER…….and EXTRAVAGANCE. But there’s a breed who chose to live in convents and commit themselves to a life of prayer and devotion.

 

 

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One such monarch is Juana of Austria, sister of King Philip II. She founded the Monasterio de las Descalzas Reales in 1559. The Franciscan nuns in this functioning convent are better known as the “barefoot royals” because of their aristocratic backgrounds. The convent also houses the tomb of its “fundador” Juana of Austria, one of few royals not buried in the royal resting place in El Escorial.

 

 

(I only managed to snap the exterior shot. The rest of the photos were all sourced from the Net)

 

 

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The guided tour is only for one hour, but certainly worth the €7 admission. (Prado Museum is €12, free after 6pm) I could have waited for a later tour in English but couldn’t wait as I was eager to view the works of arts donated by the nuns’ wealthy families. And so it was a guided tour in Spanish for me. Having read up on the Monasterio, it was “muy facil” to follow the guide’s spiel.

 

 

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By this time, I am beginning to appreciate smaller museos. Prado and Thyssen are fine, worth every euro and time spent. By that, I mean lots of time. It’s hard to digest all that art in one go. In the case of smaller museums, the “collections” maybe fewer but definitely NOT less significant. In this Convento, I have this feeling that the wealthy families of the barefoot royals donated what’s “BEST” from their own collections and treasures. I can only imagine them saying goodbye to a daughter or a sister and parting with a treasured work of art to keep the novice nun “company” and provide a source of joy.

 

 

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The Convent is bigger than I thought. We did the rounds from hall to hall, chapel to chapel, all around a lovely courtyard. But nothing beats the moment one enters the convent. The grand staircase is so stunning that it is agonizing to leave the area to view the rest of the monastery. This area is part of the original palace owned by the Royal Treasurer Alonso Gutierez before it was sold to Juana in 1555. The frescoes and trompe-l’oeil on the balustrades, arches and walls will leave you mesmerized. Not to be missed is the “royal balcony” fresco as one climbs the staircase. Here you’d find King Philip IV with Mariana of Austria, the Infanta Margarita Teresa and the Prince of Asturias, Felipe Prospero who died at age 4.

 


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The chapels, cloisters, choir area, halls and corridors are all crammed with paintings, tiles, frescoes, sculptures, woodcarvings and other pieces of art. And the tapestries! Surely they’re there not just to “warm” the convent during winter. Speaking of which, I’ve got to say that there’s a certain degree of “warmth” in each piece of art in here. Perhaps because they were “favorite” works of art of some of the nuns — looked at and over and over as they evoke fond memories of their families? Perhaps they lovingly view, even touch these art pieces whenever they missed their families? Who knows? But unlike some “cold” works of art on display in some museos, I enjoyed this short but very comprehensive tour of the Convent the most. And in Spanish at that! Don’t fail to visit this convent when in Madrid. It is just a short walk from Puerta del Sol, right behind El Corte Ingles.

 

 

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Done the Prado Museum thrice. Each time, I was drawn more to the Spanish Masters. With much time to spend in Madrid, I was able to schedule my Prado visits in such a way that I devote the next 2 hours just viewing 1 or 2 artists.

 

 

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Goya is among Spain’s greatest, if not THE. His statue stands on a prominent site on the Museum square, and rightly so. I lost count of how many galleries or halls inside the Museo where his paintings hang. But I do remember that Goya requires more time and attention. Amazing how his works evolved through the years. The religious paintings, the nude paintings, the more surreal — shall i say “fierce”? — paintings. More amazing is his life story. Imagine him as a man about town, painting the Duchess of Alba in all her nakedness, witnessing the Mayo Dos failed insurrection and painting it from memory, going deaf as he began on his “Pinturas Negras”, dying in Bordeaux, France and buried in Madrid without his head. That last piece of information about his headless body so intrigued me that I ventured to search for his resting place.

 


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The metro stop says Principe Pio. Walking right from the station along Paseo de Florida for some 10 minutes, the statue of Goya proudly stands in the glorietta fronting the Ermita de San Antonio de la Florida. I thought I was seeing double when I reached the place, only to learn that a sister church with twin features was built right next to the original which has since been turned into a Museum. The mortal remains of Goya lie in the original 18th century Neo-classical church, while worship was transferred to the adjacent sister church. Both churches are tiny, with floors shaped like a Greek cross.


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As expected, photography was not allowed inside the tiny museum-church. A pity. I would have loved to snap photos of Goya’s frescoes. The photo above and those below are some photos grabbed from the Internet, just to give you an idea of Goya’s genius. Surely, the Hermitage of Saint Anthony is so fortunate to house Goya’s masterpiece. There are mirrors — spotted at least 4— so one can view the ceiling, the dome without craning one’s neck. Still, I couldn’t help looking up to admire this intriguing man’s work. For a while there, I thought there was a banister or some kind of railing around the dome to allow one to go up and view the frescoes up close. I even assumed Goya painted from there while his assistant busily stirred his pigments. Was I dead wrong.

 


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The cherubs painted on the ceiling looked like they were lifting the drapes for the audience to view the obra maestro. A child’s leg “hanging” from the banister made me realize that the feigned banister is part of the painting showing villagers witnessing a miracle of San Antonio. The artist even painted himself with a black cloak in this dome fresco! Each character in the painting has a different facial expression — pain, adoration, awe, joy, gratitude, festive, surprise, glee, fright, even indifference. Very very expressive figures and gestures caught in canvas. I like how Goya’s paintings seem to have blurred edges (this layman’s description), as if the artist smudged over the edges without losing the details. The restoration work done here and completed in 2005 is definitely commendable.

 


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Yet this site, this tomb of this magnificent artist is often missed. As I have. Been here 2 months until I ventured off the beaten path. But why headless, you ask? Goya died in Bordeaux in 1828. His head was stolen in France before the body was transported to Spain to be buried under  a very modest gravestone here. In death, as in life, Goya’s story truly invites one to either stand in awe or sit in contemplation. Now….. Let’s have that last look on Goya’s “Naked Maja”. Did the Duchess of Alba really sit for this painting? Or did she “lie” for this painting? 😊😊😊

 


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