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Making Memories (2023)

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October 24, 2023

This 2023 is a year marked by so many milestones. In a couple more months, we’d prep to welcome a new year and I just can’t wait to give my yearend update! I know, I’m 2 months early but there is just so much to tell. Or write about. Early on, the year started with health travails within the family. Throughout the year, we’ve learned to manage the heartbreaks and inconveniences. To some extent, we even managed to ignore the problems and carried on celebrating life. At this stage, we felt we just can’t skip nor miss, or worse, waste the opportunities. Life will always have its ups and downs. The challenge lies in how we can stay happy. And hopeful.

Half Full or Half Empty? To see or not to see?

Dead of Winter in Early January in Japan

Started the year with a winter trip to Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto. A visiting niece has long wanted and has never been to Japan so I obliged. After all, Japan is always a good idea. Yeah, I was in this land of the sun just last November 2022 and it hasn’t been 2 months yet! And a few months later around spring, I’d find myself back again in the Kansai region with my 2 other nieces. I can’t believe I made 3 trips to Japan in a span of 5 months. Not that I’m complaining. I love Japan.

We planned our trip to Europe in between trips to the hospital’s emergency room. One of us got her visa a day before departure. 😩 We were scheduled to arrive late in Amsterdam without a hotel room on our first night. Managed to book a room only from the airport’s departure lounge. All’s well. And the trip turned out to be truly unforgettable with a few mishaps here and there. I traveled with my 2 grandchildren from Amsterdam to Brussels to Brugges to Provence to Paris. The train connections we arranged as we went along.

The trip to northwestern Vietnam was a welcome break amidst all the stress from life’s uncertainties. Never mind that it took 6 hours going from Hanoi to Sapa. If only for the clouds rolling through the mountains carved by rice field terraces, as well as the coffee scene, this trip to Northern Vietnam is worth it. And the impromptu meet-ups in Phuket, Thailand with our OZ branch of the family turned out to be the perfect stress-buster. As they say, when life hands you lemons, make lemonade! Such a lovely time we had basking under the sun and digging our toes in the sand. The holiday resort we stayed in was perfect for us. The resort activities kept us entertained and there was plenty of time to catch up with one another too.

The year 2023 likewise marked the golden jubilee for my college batch. More than 5 decades of friendship. We did well with a yearbook, a beach weekend, trip to a pottery workshop, many luncheons and cocktails, and a lovely video and collage of all our homecoming events. What a blessing to experience all these — reminiscing our teenage years in college and delighting in how we still manage to enjoy each other’s company as we rolled into our 70’s. With some now living abroad, we have missed each other far too long. But it never took that long to pick up where we left off. An old joke persists. An old story repeated countless times.

And the golden jubilarian turning septuagenarian? It all happened in 2023. What a milestone! In our batch, I was the youngest. The last to turn 70. To my elves, I’m ancient. The same elves who treated me to a degustacion in Metiz Restaurant. Not wanting to go home yet after dinner, we lingered at our favorite hotel lobby just chatting till they closed shop. On the very day I turned 70, we had lunch in Beso Beso which translates to “kisses”. A lovely time for the family as we then proceeded to hear Sunday Mass after lunch and indulged in some shopping later, before another family dinner at Made Nice. It was a Sunday, a birthday truly made nice as we stayed together a good part of that day. Quite rare now as everyone gets busy with new jobs, a career, some projects. An opportunity not to be missed. Nor wasted. Memories. Life is a celebration.

Tags: Asia, Beso Beso, cafe crawl, Degustacion, Europe, Family, Family Travel, Food Trip, Hanoi, Japan, Kyoto, Made Nice, Musings and Ramblings, Osaka, Phuket, Sapa, Thailand, Tokyo, Travel, Travels, vietnam

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Elsewhere In Hanoi

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September 27, 2023

Not my first time here but I’m traveling with my Nieta who’s a first-timer in Hanoi. Had a list of touristy spots but she crafted her own itinerary which included a visit to Vietnamese Women’s Museum, another café crawl and some honky-tonk noodle joint. Not to forget, she wanted also to check out a rooftop bar with a city view and thankfully , our hotel in Hanoi has a really lovely SkyBar . Would have included a shopping adventure on our last day in Hanoi but there wasn’t enough time . After all, our trip was really focused on Sa Pa in Northwestern Vietnam and we just had to fly in and out of Hanoi. So we made good use of those 2 days in the capital. No war museums, no mausoleum, no prison visits, really nothing that we’d find depressing. Just all positive vibes!

Vietnamese Women’s Museum

First off my Nieta’s list is the Vietnamese Women’s Museum. Went there for 2 principal reasons: the permanent collection of women’s costumes is awesome AND we were also intrigued by gender issues within some mountain tribes we met when we visited Sapa. One of our guides there recounted how women in her tribe have no say in choosing their grooms. As early as age 15-16, a man can choose a girl to be his wife, “kidnap” her for 3 days, and then arrange their marriage. Bride kidnapping is a tribal custom still practiced in this day and age. How and why? Let me just say it’s utterly bizarre that the custom is still practiced now. But it’s a culture thing and so let’s skip the subject 🧐

We also didn’t miss that Bun Cha noodle shop made popular by the show “Parts Unknown”. It’s a hole in the wall now listed in the Michelin Guide. Check out my earlier blog on this. Another popular spot is Banh Mi 25 in Hanoi’s Old Quarter. We grabbed a couple of banh mis to eat in our room but I must say the banh mis I’ve tried in Hoi An is a notch or so better. Just the same, Banh Mi 25 is reasonably good and value-for-money. Once you’ve had your fill, you should be ready for the nightlife. We’re not party people but we sure know how to enjoy a drink or two. Choosing to enjoy a nightcap in our hotel, we tried the Ignite Sky Bar’s cocktails. Strawberry Daiquiri, Mango Margarita, and more. Sunset and city views are perfect from this rooftop bar. La vie est Belle!

Tags: Asia, Food Trip, Hanoi, Musings and Ramblings, Travel, Travels, vietnam, Vietnamese Women's Museum

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The Coffee Scene in Hanoi

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September 23, 2023

We are back in Hanoi and still seriously in search for the best egg coffee — and where else should we look but where it all started? First discovered, or rather concocted in 1925, when an ex-bartender of the famous 5-star Metropole Hotel thought of substituting fresh milk with egg to make Hanoi’s “cappuccino”. It was the perfect solution at a time when milk was a luxury and scarce. Only problem then was that it took an entire half hour to beat the high-quality free-range eggs to make a cup of egg coffee! Thankfully, the egg blenders have made this tedious process a thing of the past now. It can only be expected that the man — Nguyen Van Giang — who created and introduced the egg coffee runs the best egg coffee place in Hanoi. Still in the same unpretentious building and yes, still the same recipe but likely using egg blenders. For the life of me, I was kind of hesitant to try raw egg yolks in my coffee but Mr. Giang’s recipe reportedly uses only eggs from free-range hens fed on natural food! They say there’s a secret ingredient but I bet Mr. Giang shared that with his daughter who now runs the 2nd best egg coffee shop “Dinh Cafe”.

Since we’ve already tried the iced coconut coffee of Cong Ca Phe when we were in Sapa, Northern Vietnam, we skipped their Hanoi outlet and instead booked another grab ride to arrive in the Hidden Gem Cafe. Truly hidden! The narrow alley snaked past a garage and two flights of stairs. But we’re so happy to be here. Amazing how the owner recycled so much stuff and seamlessly put them all together here. Here, we tried the sticky rice iced coffee, a good looking lemonade with blue tea and an iced coconut coffee. Their bahn mi and rolls may not be the best but they’d do if you’re hungry. It simply is exciting to be in this spot which we found bohemian and artsy. Just be sure you beat the crowds by coming real early or at odd hours. I’m sure it gets busy and because it’s not air conditioned, you may not get the spot we had where there’s a breeze to ward off the heat.

This coffee place didn’t waste any walls nor corners. There was always something going on on some walls — a mural, a garden, something both artistic and odd. The 2 flights of stairs get you on the 3rd floor that’s more “al fresco”. Better than the 2nd floor which we found more stuffy. I am not sure we’d find this place on our own. Booking a grab ride was easy and real cheap! So install that app if you haven’t.

But in case you haven’t tried Iced Coconut Coffee — that modern-day concoction of coffee, coconut cream, milk and ice cream — there are several outlets of Cong Ca Phe in Hanoi. Choose one nearest you, and have that iced coconut coffee fix! This time, feel the communist vibe here with the cafe’s military-green walls, a server clad in military uniform and comm posters straight out of the 1970s to instill that vibe! Mind you, we had the best iced coconut coffee here. Oh, there’s the green rice coconut coffee too which I particularly liked. More like a dessert. Enjoy ☕️ 🧋

Tags: cafe scene, Coffee, Cong Ca Phe, Egg Coffee, Food Trip, Giang Cafe, Hanoi, Hanoi old quarter, Hidden Gem Cafe, iced coconut coffee, Travel, Travels, vietnam, Vietnamese Cappuccino

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Parts Now Known (Hanoi)

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September 21, 2023

Parts Unknown by Anthony Bourdain is one of my fav shows. Lamentably, Tony is no longer around to guide us. Not only in terms of what and where to eat, but on how to appreciate food in the context of culture and even traditions. One show on Hanoi food adventure is that one where Bourdain dined in some honky-tonk joint with no less than THE PRESIDENT OBAMA. So what do you expect from a food show that features a dinner date between Tony and Barack?

I remember searching for a pho joint in Ho Cho Minh City whose claim to fame is that President Bill Clinton happened to eat there. Pho 2000 isn’t bad but I’d say food taste is really just your average Joe. Or average Huy or Nam, if you like. And now, there’s Bun Cha Huong Lien. But first a lesson on what is pho vs Bun Cha. Pho is a noodle soup while bun cha is more dry. Like having barbecued pork over your vermicelli plus some really, really good broth flavoured with sweetened vinegar and fish sauce. I love bun cha!

The Combo Obama goes with this Seafood Roll

Price-wise, this joint is a winner. You can’t go wrong at these unbelievably low prices for some truly good soupy dishes. And the servings are soooo generous. The veggies and vermicelli are all laid out on a platter even before you order anything. I guess the veggies and thin noodles go with anything you order. Go help yourselves, folks. Just don’t expect fancy tableware nor linen service 😂 . Service is not impeccable but fairly prompt and standard. Honky tonk that it is, we actually enjoyed the same bun Cha and Combo Obama that Barack and Tony Bourdain enjoyed. Value for money it is.

Oh, btw, “bun” in Vietnam means vermicelli and “cha” means grilled pork. Bun Cha is one of the iconic dishes here in Vietnam and certainly worth a try! And once you’re done eating, how about going up to the upper floor to check out the glass-encased box on display where Obama and Bourdain ate their bun Cha along with their dining sets and tiny stools. Such is Bun Cha Huong Lien’s claim to fame. Enjoy!

Tags: Anthony Bourdain, Asia, Barack Obama, bun Cha, Food Trip, Hanoi, pho, seafood roll, Travel, Travels, vietnam

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Dining in Hanoi

Filed under: Asian Holidays, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

September 19, 2023

We are actually headed for Sapa in Northern Vietnam, some 5-6 hours away from Hanoi. But there’s time enough to check out some Hanoi eats before the “nature trip” up North starting with this Hanoi signature dish called Cha Ca. Served with dill, spring onions and vermicelli, this turmeric fish is a classic. Cha Ca La Vong is its full title but in Hanoi, they simply call it Cha Ca. One of the popular restos serving this Hanoi specialty is just right across our hotel. The Cha Ca Thang Long Restaurant in the Old Quarter of Hanoi has 3 outlets IN THE SAME STREET but the one across our Hotel Peridot has a tiny, narrow courtyard leading to a two- storey French-inspired structure in faded yellow hues. The main ingredient is the grilled catfish marinated in turmeric and cooked with dill and spring onions right on the table. We were taught to fill our individual bowls with vermicelli before spooning in the turmeric fish with dill and other herbs like coriander and mint. There were also peanuts one can throw in with some fish sauce mixture to taste.

Vermicelli goes into bowl first, then spoon in the fish and herbs. Next, throw in the nuts and some sauce.

If you’re dining here, don’t think there are many menu options. People come here really for the Cha Ca dish. You may order some fried rolls just for variety but I didn’t find them particularly good. The Hanoi beer is a good accompaniment, or you can go for some tea instead. This is not my first time in Hanoi but it’s my first time to try this Hanoi dish.

Post-Chaka lunch, we trooped to the cafe a few meters away to try the EGG COFFEE. Introduced way back in 1940s during the French war, egg as a milk substitute just burst out as the perfect remedy at a time when milk was in truly serious shortage. I can’t say I was floored, but under the conditions when it was resorted to, I bet it was a hit! Now a popular Vietnamese coffee aside from that which uses condensed milk, the egg coffee is bold, foamy, dense, and syrupy. Best spooned than sipped. Almost like a dessert. An experience, if you like.

After Sapa, we’d stop by Hanoi again before flying out. Let’s see how we make out in the dining department. In the same hotel where we stayed, I wouldn’t mind repeating some of the dishes we enjoyed in the lovely Grand Peridot Boutique Hotel. Not exactly traditional Vietnamese cuisine, but the prawn pad Thai, rolls and chicken in skewers made for a delightful dinner with all the theatrics in presentation, capped by a dramatic cocktail concoction. Xin Chao!

Cocktails With A Flair

Tags: Asia, Cha ca, Cha Ca Thang Long, Egg Coffee, Food Trip, Hanoi, Peridot Grand Boutique Hotel, Travel, Travels, vietnam

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The People You Meet

Filed under: Africa, Asian Holidays, Australia, Europe, India, Musings & Ramblings, Philippine Travels, Spain, Travel, travels — 13 Comments

July 27, 2017

A fellow blogger once asked how many countries I have visited. A friend once “humble-bragged” by advising I should start planning to cover all 7 continents to “round up my travels”. Unfortunately, I don’t keep count. Why do they, I wonder? Nor does it matter to me what others think I missed or should have done. I go where it pleases. And beyond the sights, my memorable experiences are always characterized by the people I interacted with. That includes the people I traveled with. I have the good fortune of traveling with many, varied circles of friends outside of family. The foodies, the sightseers, the adventurers, the history buffs, the art and culture vultures, the hikers, as well as those who just long for some R & R. Not stuck with any single group, I relish the company of each. That includes a peculiar group I’d call the “losers” — people who don’t care getting LOST, seeing the ”mishap’ as another opportunity to explore!

In Bhutan, I found a very admirable tour and hiking guide. My friend Beth and I “adopted” Sonam whom we referred to as our godson. We are still in touch, thanks to Facebook. We were updated with Sonam’s adventures from a young man to bridesgroom to young father, moving from Bhutan to Australia. I credit Sonam for making it possible for me to hike up to Taktshang Monastery aka Tiger’s Nest. The hike is quite dramatic considering you see the site high up in the mountain from the base where pilgrims and tourists commence the hike or horseback ride for the first 1 hour. I chose the latter to conserve my energy for the hike and met Tring, the old man whose horse is likewise called Tring. Don’t ask why. Meanwhile, I left my friend Beth with our driver who grew years older (again, don’t ask me why 🙄) accompanying my friend up to the Halfway Station. Tashi Delek!

Still on Bhutan, I have to say I’ve been so impressed with how kind and caring their people are. Whenever I stopped for oxygen breaks, there were locals eyeing me as if asking if I need some help. They’d only stop staring and got on with whatever they were doing when I smiled to reassure them I’m still alive 😊 Also, I never found a race so detached from material wealth as these Bhutanese. Sure there were poor people around, but I never once felt that money mattered most to them. I sure hope that didn’t change over the years since I’ve been there.

Because I run a blog site, one of my followers learned I was staying in Madrid for nearly 3 months back in 2013. He messaged to invite me to a good Cocido de Madrileño lunch plus an afternoon tour of the city’s hidden gems. The best tour I ever had! Under the tourist radar sites included trespassing on strangers’ apartments to view better preserved medieval walls of Madrid. Well not exactly trespassing — Marco actually knocked on strangers’ apartment doors to view the walls from their porches! And these locals were most accommodating.

Because I made many solo trips in and around Spain, I met a lot of new friends and interacted with many locals. Before getting off a bus, I’d ask the driver which is the best way to reach the Plaza Mayor. Invariably, the bus driver will advise me he’d be back on that dropoff by a certain time for my ride back. Better than riding a cab! On that New Year’s Eve I was in Madrid, I jumped up and down with the locals,shared drinks with them, and even hugged them as the clock struck 12. My niece and them locals were family 😘

In Mongolia, my friends and I had a chance to visit a ger, eat an authentic lunch, and observe how a typical Mongolian family lead a nomadic lifestyle. I parted with my locally-crafted necklace to give to the “lady of the ger” who cooked and served us some dumplings and tea right inside the ger. We didn’t sleep in a ger. I don’t think I could unless one goes to the gers put up for tourists with modern conveniences 😜

In Hanoi, I found children playing “sipa” which literally translates to kick. It’s a native game in Vietnam, Philippines, Thailand and other Asian countries. I joined those kids for a game in my wedged sandals while carrying my bag. Beat that! Then in India, I strayed from our travel group and found ourselves in the kitchen of a Sikh Temple where they were preparing to feed a long line of devotees. The volunteer cooks looked tired but friendly. And locally? I remember spotting a fellow blogger in a Masskara festival in Bacolod City. I approached Enrico and here’s our photo before the parade started! Listen to the drum roll…

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Tags: Africa, Bhutan, Hanoi, Madrid, Musings and Ramblings, Philippines, Solo Travel, Spain, Travel, travels

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HANOI: Not A Persnickety Trip

Filed under: Asian Holidays, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

December 6, 2014

Well, NOT all trips need to be planned. My young friend Paula Peralejo-Fernandez of Our Restless Feet meticulously arranged our first 3 days of adventure off Hanoi with visits to Hoa Lu, Tam Coc and a heavenly 2-day cruise along Halong Bay via Paradise Cruises, but our last 2 days in Hanoi was meant to simply meet up, dine and shop with friends. We ended doing that, plus more. So much more spontaneity, ditched plans, instant meet-ups, unplanned discoveries, and more unplanned shopping.

Every night after dinner, we’d go in search of our favorite custard apple (“atis”) .

Our eyes brightened up each time we meet fruit peddlers on bikes.

Before our first day in Hanoi was over, we’ve acquired the requisite skill of crossing streets, dodging bikes and cars, while keeping an eye on fruit stands and shops. Multi-taskers to the core. A former colleague now based in Hanoi learned we were in town and promptly whisked us away after our hotel brekkie to give us a city tour and food trip. (Thank you, Bing!) The Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum stands tall and proud in the vast square, but no HCM because the body is off somewhere for “re-waxing (???). In the same square, we found the Prime Minister’s Office, which looks really grand.

HCM is out.

The Prime Minister is in.

Museum of National History

We found time to visit the National Museum of History. Well-curated museum that we all feel jealous for this piece of Vietnamese pride. More national pride to be found in the War Museum where downed American bomber-planes are proudly displayed. Here, I drew a good laugh from local kids playing a game of “sipa” (kick), a game I played when I was a kid. Feeling still adept at this game, I asked them if I could join the game. In wedged sandals and a bag in one hand, I must have given them quite an entertainment that drew laughs till the sun set in Hanoi. Enjoyed that!

War Museum

On wedged sandals and bag in one hand, I happily kicked the afternoon away!

The Maison Centrale or Hoa Lo Prison in the French Quarter reminded us of the horrors of war. Much of the exhibits were of the French-era prisoners. Ergo, it’s by and large about the Vietnamese revolutionaries held behind bars, many executed using the guillotine, here. The Americans call it “Hanoi Hilton” because 200-300 captured American pilots were interrogated and tortured here. Their “experiences” were not however documented and exhibited here.

Maison Centrale or Hanoi Hilton?

Under French rule, Vietnamese revolutionaries were jailed, shackled, and tortured here in Hoa Lo.

Quite depressing to see how humans can inflict inhumane punishment during war. “Tortured” by these images, our friend cum “local guide” brought us to the real, modern Hanoi Hilton for a cuppa and some sweet pastries before driving us home. And home is this boutique hotel near Hoan Kiem Lake bordered by many stalls and shops selling everything from shirts, bags, coats, slippers, souvenirs, fruits, coffee, tea, even turtles! Mind you, those turtles are for sale NOT as pets but as food. Yay!

The real Hanoi Hilton all dressed up for Christmas!

Turtles sold in markets and supermarkets. NOT as pets, but as dinner on your table!

More retail therapy and more food porn in 48 hours in this city. No meticulous planning, but surely, a fully-booked but relaxing holiday for us all. The sampan and cruise boat rides, the Hoan Kiem lake view provided the nerve-soothing experiences. The retail therapy provided the ~~haggling~~ experience with the locals. The food trips satiated our belly cravings and another dimension of this memorable travel experience.

The newly-opened Royal City with its 7-storey undeground mall! Kichi-Kichi rotary hotpot was quite a dining experience here!

Hoan Kiem Lake

Tags: Hanoi, Hanoi Hilton, Hoan Kiem Lake, Maison Centrale, Museum of National History, Royal City, War museum

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HOA LU and TAM COC On A Rainy Day

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December 3, 2014

It was a late flight and an hour past midnight arrival. Yet we managed to sleep well and enjoy a hearty breakfast in the few hours left before our mid-morning pick-up for the Hoa Lu and Tam Coc trip. The drive was comfortable, and our guide Húng gave us a good introduction to Vietnam’s glorious past.

Hoa Lu, just a 2-hour drive from Hanoi.

Hoa Lu is an ancient capital in the 10th – 11th century before the capital was moved to Hanoi. There were only 5 rulers under this dynasty, but 5 may seem many considering the dynasty reigned for less than half a century. Most interesting were the stories involving an emperor who was succeeded by a 6-year old son, replaced by his regent and top general who then married the first emperor’s widow. Just 3 square kilometers in size, the site featured palaces, shrines and temples to honor these emperors : Dinh Tien Hoang and Le Dai Hanh, their sons, and Queen Duong Van Nga.

Temples are dedicated to people; Pagodas to Buddha. Something new I learned from Hung.

Vietnamese lunch was served just before our boat ride in Tam Coc. So we were so full while enduring a 1 1/2 hour sampan boat ride that stretched into 2 because the heavens opened up and we took cover under one of the natural cave “tunnels” while it poured. Still, the giant limestone karst formations jutting out of the rice paddies provided an impressive site. It’s like Halong Bay on land, or rather between rice paddies. Too bad they just harvested the rice when we paddled our way through the Ngo Dong River. We made our way back with newly-bought raincoats and braved the rain while our boat man paddled the boat using his feet in a fast-paced rhythm.

The Sampan Ride along the river hemmed by rice paddies, dotted by limestone rock formations.

It was a no-brainer to decide to cancel the biking around rice paddies after the boat ride. Instead, we dried ourselves and made our way on a 2 1/2 van ride back to the city. Not complaining here. We had a wonderful time despite the rain.