Tag Archive: Gelato



Most tourists take this excursion out of Florence to visit Siena and San Gimignano. Did it in 2009; did it again this 2024 with “apos”. Like me, I’m sure they’d enjoy this part of Tuscany. If Florence is a Renaissance city, then it’s all medieval as you reach Siena and San Gimignano. All 3 teeming in art, history and culture. If only for these 3, Tuscany is truly a dream destination. For people like Frances Mayes (author: Under The Tuscan Sun), it even is home. Tuscany. Rolling hills, medieval buildings, breathtaking sceneries. Then throw in the vineyards and good food, and staying is no longer an option but a wonderful decision.

Siena’s Piazza del Campo
Siena Cathedral

The Siena Cathedral is hailed as the prettiest among Italy’s Gothic Cathedrals. The alternating black and white marbles present a unique striped exterior while the interiors hold even more jaw-dropping elegance and beauty, while continuing with the black and white band-striped theme. Che magnifico! I love that this heritage site is devoid of motor vehicles but that can only mean that visitors should be prepared to walk. Somehow, being closed to traffic gives Siena that “frozen in time” charm. Just like Venezia and many parts of Firenze.

Siena’s Lovely Cityscape
Michelin Guide Had This Listed

Our local guide calmly narrated the significance of the piazza and how it is used for horse races called “Palio”. Quite insane, this centuries old race. It’s a horse race, so the winner is the horse, not the jockey. I mean, the unsaddled horse that first crosses the finishing line may be without a jockey and still win. Just 3 laps around the fan-shaped piazza. 10 horses. Approximately, the race lasts 90 seconds. And they hold this pageant twice a year every July 2 and August 16 since the 15th century!

So Medieval
World’s Best Gelato (2024)?

Our luck held out in Siena. The guide recommended where we can enjoy good Cacio y Pepe — Papei Trattoria. Pici Cardinale, and Pappardelle al Cinghiale were likewise excellent! And more luck with our gelato. The ones we had in Siena were good. But the gelato in San Gimignano even better. A sign claims it’s named most popular gelateria in 2024. But 2024 isn’t over yet. Whatever. Not complaining about the gelato though. And over the moon with our lunch at Papei.

“Medieval Manhattan “
San Gimignano’s Box-Like Towers

San Gimignano’s medieval towers from the 12th to the 13th centuries now count over a dozen. A big drop from the more than 70 towers centuries ago when they adorned this Tuscan hill town. The 12th century Collegiata is often mistaken for a cathedral or duomo with its treasure of dramatic frescoes of the New Testament. The towers, the “duomo” , the piazza and the medieval architecture should paint a beautiful silhouette against the skyline at sundown, the way I viewed it back in 2009. No such luck this time. But the elves are happy with their gelato!


By noontime, we trooped to Mestre Train Station for our ride to Florence. Made sure our trip has 0 stops as I doubt we have the energy to switch trains and drag our big bags. We were famished by the time we reached Firenze SMN Station. Our apartment is just off the Basilica Di Santa Maria Novella but it took all of our energy to walk with our luggage in tow. Having checked in, we fell in love with our apartment. With 6 nights to spend here, I’ve decided to stay in for a much-needed rest to recover my sapped energy, do the laundry (3 weeks load!) and send off the apos to make other arrangements like meet some friends, hit more art galleries, do shopping or whatever else in the next 2 days. The NEXT couple of days. Today, some introductions are in order.

Basilica of Santa Maria Novella
The oldest pharmacy — now perfumery — in the world.

As soon as we loaded the first batch of laundry into the washing machine, we took off. Very near our apartment is the oldest running pharmacy in Florence, and in the world: the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. It all started in 1221 with Dominican friars developing a botanical garden of plants and herbs to produce healing ointments, balms and other medicines. Over time, the concoctions produced perfumes which counted royalties and prominent families among its clients. We sniffed around — and liked the scents but didn’t end up buying any. From this pharmacy, we walked a few blocks to reach Palazzo Strozzi where we promptly bought tickets to view Anselm Kiefer’s exhibit “Fallen Angels”. Very impressive. Not our first impression though, but his art grows on you as you spend more time with the artworks.

Kiefer’s “Fallen Angels” in Palazzo Strozzi

On our first day in Florence, we passed the Piazza Di Santa Maria Novella, visited the world’s oldest pharmacy, viewed an art exhibit, admired the magnificent Duomo, chanced upon the Odeon Theater cum Bookshop, and ended up in Mercato Centrale for dinner. We wanted to eat in the nearby trattorias but we were so hungry that we found the long lines frustrating. And so, we had our first bistecca florentina at the Mercato. Rarely that we dined without any conversation, but this is one moment. We devoured the Chianina beef like there’s no tomorrow. Gelato for a good finish and we had the best flavor ever — buontalenti, named after Bernardo Buontalenti, the Florentine inventor of Gelato.

Bistecca alla Florentina
Gelato
Mercato Centrale

Having crossed 3 timezones, I looked forward to the next 2 days of doing nothing. Well, not exactly nothing. Like a doting abuela, I did the laundry and even cooked dinner. I also managed to book excursions for the next 2 days : one to Cinque Terre and another day trip to visit Siena, San Gimignano, Chianti and Monteriggioni. Plus a dinner booking at a nearby Trattoria il Giardino. Nieto y Nieta were on their own the first 2 whole days in Firenze, meeting their Abuela only for dinner either at the apartment (for a home cooked meal) or in a nearby trattoria. We did return to the Mercato Centrale to buy dinner to eat in the apartment. Even the young get exhausted as they preferred to stay in in the apartment that became our cozy home for a week. And they’re only on their second week while their Abuela has already clocked 6 weeks. 😜

More to write about Firenze. Wait for the next blog.

Good pasta, osso buco and coccoli
Soft music on a chilly night.
I’m on holiday 💤

Long before the Don Bosco Salesians sold it, we have been dropping by for their yummy and affordable gelato 🍦and pasta 🍝dishes. Simply called “Amici”, it was more like your neighborhood cafeteria. You get your tray, line up, and point to the dish you like. The “turo turo” concept was not lost in this cafeteria then run and managed by the Salesian priests. You can order a bowl of sinigang 🍵or dinuguan to share with a friend, or try the Italian “longganiza” or sausages, or the roast chicken. My favorite then was their roast turkey. Oh yes, they had turkey! Whenever I needed my turkey fix, I get it here without having to buy the whole bird.

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From a simple neighborhood cafeteria, they started selling gelato, then pasta, then pizza. Thanks to the Italian priest managing the place in the early days, my Italian favorites couldn’t be more Italian! The cafeteria set-up meant diners get their own utensils, glasses and pitchers of water. One also orders soda by the liter, to share among friends around the table. The condiments section even included chili flakes, olive oil and Parmesan cheese ….. but not for long.

 

 

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Delish. Not pricey. Where else can you order authentic gelato for P35 a scoop? Or pizza for P240? My favorite aglio olio was then selling for only P115 a plate with ample dollops of Parmesan flakes. You bet more diners came. The lines grew longer. The diners extended beyond the pack of noontime mass goers in the nearby Don Bosco Church. ⛪The gelato line up counted more flavors. More cakes 🍰adorned the display cabinets.

 

 

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The Salesians may have been surprised about Amici’s instant success. And running a dining place is truly not within their mission. Sold to the same group which used to own Red Ribbon, the place is now called Cara Mia. But to “old timers” like me, it would still be Amici. The place has since abandoned the cafeteria set-up, introduced more Italain dishes, AND UPPED THE PRICES. That’s the sad part. My gelato is now double the original price. And the pasta and pizza now sell for at least 50% more. Service is far better though. And the place is dolled up and looks much neater. They even have branches too. Plus you can phone in your orders for home delivery.

 

 

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After being away for some time, I longed for comfort food and found many here. In fact, I dropped in twice in 3 days and ordered the same stuff. Creatures of habit? Perhaps. but judging by the new desserts line-up, I’m sure to pick up new favorites ☺

 

 

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Amici or Cara Mia is right within the Don Bosco compound near the Church. Entrance via Arnaiz Road (Pasay Road) near the corner of Chino Roces (Pasong Tamo Street). You can park behind the dining place by entering the gate to the Don Bosco Printing Press (between Amici and the gate to the church) or you can park at Waltermart at the corner and just walk to Amici. There is a branch in Ayala Triangle but I much prefer this original place 😊