Tag Archive: Fort Santiago



Intramuros comes to mind whenever we have foreign visitors to take around Manila. Over the years, I’ve lost count of foreign guests and “balikbayans” I’ve toured around the former walled city and nearby historical and cultural spots. But today is different. We have a free day and we’ve decided we’d check out the now pedestrian zone around Plaza San Luis Complex where you’d find San Agustin Church, Casa Manila, Casa Blanca, Barbara’s, Cafe Intramuros, Batala Bar, and not too far away, the Centro de Turismo and Museo de Intramuros. I’m only too happy to stroll along the cobblestoned General Luna Street devoid of motor vehicles and the ubiquitous pedicabs and tricycles. Now you’d find visitors on bamboo bikes, segways or horse-drawn calesas competing for space with the pedestrians. It even felt strange to find the San Agustin Church without cars crowding its beautiful frontage. Such scenes completely changed, nay transformed Intramuros. About time!

San Agustin Church
Across the Church is the Plaza San Luis Complex

The coffee scene in Intramuros now counts Batala Bar and Cafe Intramuros alongside Barbara’s. We started our day with brunch in Batala Bar. From its windows, we have views either of the San Agustin Church or the Plaza and Casa Manila. There were not too many visitors but I need to mention that despite the summer heat, it was such a pleasant experience to go around the area. The service crew and the security staff are very friendly, accommodating and generous with their knowledge about the place. When people go out of their way to please, it is always a sign of good training and work ethics. 👍

Plaza San Luis
View from Batala Bar

Casa Manila gives a glimpse into the lifestyle of the “illustrados” — Filipino families who enjoyed affluence during the Spanish times. The Casa or house is actually a mansion bearing the colonial style of architecture and taste — in stark contrast to the more modest “Bahay Kubo”. The antique furniture, wide windows, huge kitchen with antique cauldrons is a trip down memory lane. Like as far back as the 1850’s. Easily, one can spend an hour here. Around the Casa, one is never short on dining options. The cafes and restaurants are to be found just as soon as one exits Casa Manila via the staircase from the kitchen spilling into the plaza with the fountain at the center. There are also souvenir shops though I think they can improve in this department.

Inside San Agustin Church
Inside Casa Manila

The Centro de Turismo is under renovation so we spent an hour or so instead in the Intramuros Museum. Housed in what was then the San Ignacio Church and Convent, it is a treasure trove of historical and religious artifacts. For sure, the Intramuros Admin did a terrific job on this project. A half day itinerary for tourists may include visits to San Agustin Church and its Convent cum Museum, Casa Manila, followed by lunch in any of the cafes and restaurants within the Plaza San Luis. And there’s also Ristorante Delle Mitre across the street where there’s a good assortment of desserts and baked goods.

Museo de Intramuros
Inside Museo de Intramuros

Now if you still have energy and time left, you can always proceed to Manila Cathedral and Fort Santiago. We did, but not so much to tour around but to check out Papa Kape inside Fort Santiago. We heard so much about their Black Gulaman Americano Coffee and the Tahoat Coffee — a concoction that blends “taho” and oat milk cafe. Both iced, we enjoyed our bev as well as the resident cats within the cafe. Not a bad day to spend like “local tourists” in our own city!

Mr. Cat sleeping on the best seat of the house. Tahoat and Black Gulaman Coffee best served “iced”.
Papa Kape

How often do we entertain foreign guests and balikbayan (returning Filipinos) family and friends?

 

 

I’ve done quite a few — from long weekend trips in mountain villages up North or to some beach destinations down South to whole day together-ness via roadtrips north or south of Manila. And for the briefest encounters……. There’s THE DRILL. A glimpse into over 300 years under Spanish rule (Fort Santiago y Intramuros) + the heart and core of Chinatown (a.k.a. Binondo Walk cum Foodtrip) + end-of-day relaxation along Manila Bay interspersed with brief food tripping episodes.

 

 

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Rizal Park

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Fort Santiago in Intramuros, Manila

 

 

By itself, the Rizal Park-Intramuros-National Museum can take a whole day already. But who wants to do long walks at 39 Celsius in humid April? I say the Museum can wait and the Park can easily be a “drive-thru”. We were first driven to Fort Santiago (entrance: 75 pesos, 50 pesos for students) passing Rizal Park (Dr. Rizal is the national hero), and then walked from Fort Santiago towards San Agustin Church, the oldest surviving church in this predominantly Catholic country. If there’s time, you can visit the Museum housed in the Convent adjoining the Church or visit Casa Manila (showcasing Filipino-Spanish lifestyle) just off the church corner. Or you can choose to sit on a horse-drawn carriage (the cheaper calesa or the pricey caruaje) sightseeing for the next hour or two. The choices depend on how much time you have. In some instances, I totally skipped Fort Santiago and instead visited Baluarte de San Diego. More trees there. Ergo, more shade!

 

 

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The National Art Gallery which used to be Legislative Building

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Baluarte de San Diego in Intramuros, Manila

 

 

From Intramuros, you can either take a cab or a jeepney or drive past the Museum and City Hall across Jones Bridge overlooking the lovely Postal Office to reach Binondo. Hungry or not, a Binondo Walk is never complete without dropping in on those “hole in the wall” spots. My personal favorites are Po Heng Lumpia House and Dong Bei Dumpling House. Need I tell you what they serve?

 

 

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Chinese Lumpia (Vegetable Roll) from the best : Po Heng Lumpia House in Binondo, Manila.

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Dumplings or Sio-Mai. Freshly Made!

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Kutchay Siomai or Dumplings with Chives Fillings. Only from that hole-in-the-wall, Dong Bei Dumpling House in Binondo, Manila.

 

 

Finally done with Hispanic Philippines (Intramuros) and Chinoy Philippines (Binondo Chinatown)? Maybe it’s time for a cup of Cappuccino in Harbour Square within the reclaimed area housing the Cultural Center of the Philippines, Folk Arts Theatre and Philippine International Convention Center. It’s your modern Philippines complete with junk food outlets lining the Bay. Grab a bite here, if you like. Many choices across a wide price range. This is also a superb place to unwind or chill while waiting for the famous Manila Bay Sunset.

 

 

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Manila Bay, viewed from Harbour Square in the CCP Complex near Cultural Center of the Philippines.

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Roxas Boulevard near Manila Bay. At Twilight.


I wasn’t meaning to write about our national hero and join the PTB Blog Carnival , thinking I needed to clear my backlogs first. But as it turned out, a couple of friends from TravelBlog visited the Philippines and had an extra day to spend in Manila. Thought I’d give them the drill:  Spanish-Philippines in the morning,  Chinatown-Philippines for lunch, and Hollywood (American)  cum “Urban/Modern” Philippines late afternoon till early evening.  The “Philippines-Philippines” episode can wait till they get their walking feet to Bicol starting with an off-chance,  late-in-the-season Butanding Interaction in Donsol, Sorsogon.

I enjoy meeting new friends.  Jan and Polona are from Slovenia and belong to my other “community” at TravelBlog. Young, full of energy, and eager to know the Philippines .  And I was just as eager to introduce our country, our culture to them. So we began the morning with a tour of Fort Santiago and a drive-through Intramuros.  The latter deserves another leisurely afternoon.

Fort Santiago

There are heaps of good write-ups on Fort Santiago.  And blogs matched with stunning photography of this “walled city”.  I brought my rusty Point & Shoot Camera just so I can take souvenir shots with my young Slovenian friends.   My young Slovenians surprisingly did their homework and knew enough about our national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal, and about his last days in Fort Santiago.  No need for any history lessons.  These travelers, as opposed to tourists, know their stuff.   It was I who was sufficiently surprised.  Inside the Rizal Shrine ,  they took their time reading “Mi Ultimo Adios”.   I must confess I never went past the “Adios Patria Adorada, Region del Sol Quirida”  stuff.  😦

Amazingly, there was a translation of Mi Ultimo Adios in other languages.  Jan and Polona painstakingly read through some, especially the one translated in Czech.   Even as translated,  they were quite impressed with the many talents of our national hero.  Having visited many other countries,  they were pleased to find that our own is a man of peace.  And not another military chief or warrior who liberated the country from oppressors.  This gave another perspective of allowing one’s self to be impressed about the power of the pen.   How a philosophy, an ideology can move people . How it can enlighten and liberate an entire race to think on its own.   Of his many talents,  Dr. Jose Rizal certainly used the power of the pen to give life to common sentiments heretofore repressed.

There are times when I feel sentimental and wax poetic.  Moments when I find myself reading and taking pleasure in reading poems.   No favorite poets for me.  I read whatever takes my fancy.   But “Mi Ultimo Adios” ?  I never gave it a chance.  I do not know why.  Perhaps because it was part of the school curriculum and I associated it with the obligatory history lessons.   Thanks to Jan and Polona, I rediscovered the beauty, the wisdom and the rhythmic beat of Rizal’s patriotism in this farewell poem.

“I die when I see the sky has unfurled its colors 
And at last after a cloak of darkness announces the day; 
If you need scarlet to tint your dawn, 
Shed my blood, pour it as the moment comes, 
And may it be gilded by a reflection of the heaven’s newly-born light.”

Shame on me.  To have someone from a foreign land teach me a lesson on appreciation of one’s own.   This stanza was nearly “alien” to me. As I said,  I hardly went beyond the “Adios Patria Adorada” line.  Yet Rizal’s passion and patriotism resonated with these lines of poetic candor.


“If upon my grave one day you see appear, 
Amidst the dense grass, a simple humble flower, 
Place it near your lips and my soul you’ll kiss, 
And on my brow may I feel, under the cold tomb, 
The gentle blow of your tenderness, the warmth of your breath.”

Lovely. Simply lovely.  He may be a doctor of medicine. A hero.  A painter.  A sculptor. An engineer.   And more.  But in my book, he is  a poet par excellance.

This is my entry to the PTB Blog Carnival celebrating Dr. Jose P. Rizal’s 150th birthday with the theme “Rizal and Travel”, hosted by Ivan Henares .