This time, with my niece and my Sydney-based grandnephew. As expected, it’s the typical drill. Gaudi’s masterpieces, La Rambla, Passeig de Gràcia, Ciutat Vella, El Born, the beach, Montjuic and the Palau de la Musica Catalan. The colors of Gaudi’s Barcelona, the food options in Mercat de La Boquería, the chaotic tourist crowd, the vibrant music and sports — all these define Catalan Barcelona. An adequate, if not exuberant introduction to Europe for #aponimamu #withanaccent !
Park GuellPlaça CatalunyaParc Guell
Having arrived mid-morning, we left our bags in the hotel and hit the ground running. Mercat La Boqueria is closed on Sundays but some seafood restaurants deep inside were open for desayuno (breakfast). But we wanted a substantial (!!!) seafood lunch before the Spanish lunch hour. Por supuesto, we had our way. And we were fed adequately and hopped off with jolly bellies. Paella de Marisco, butifarra, pan con tomate, pimientos padron, and patatas bravas made for a good start.
Lunch at Ancora in La BoqueriaMercat de La Boqueria The Pooper
Meant to do a day trip to Girona or Sitges but time wasn’t enough. Gave up on those short trips and instead decided to explore more of Barcelona. Glad over this decision as we found time to visit Palau de la Musica Catalan and spend an early evening at La Barceloneta. Palau deserves more attention, for sure, and the beach is so much better (and more comfortable) during late spring or early summer. What struck me most however is the growing Filipino community here in Barcelona. Our hotel in the Old Town sits across a church apparently frequented by Filipinos. Heard Sunday Mass there where a Filipino priest said Mass and the church is 2/3 full, mostly with Pinoys. And brace yourself, the entire service was in our local language! I was even invited to offer flowers (“Flores de Mayo”) at the end of the service and by the time I stepped out of the church, there was a line of Filipino vendors offering Filipino snacks and other foodstuff. Made me feel like I was home. For a good 1 hour, the only language I heard was Filipino!
San Agusti Church Arco Sagrada Familia
Barcelona is a must-destination. It has a different vibe from the rest of Spain. Must be the Catalan flavor. Plus art, music, history, the beach and gastronomy all play so beautifully together in this one destination. Gaudi’s many masterpieces alone should take at least 3 days even if all entry tickets have been pre-booked! Just that the thick tourist crowd can be exhausting, with skilled pickpockets utterly threatening and annoying. They say local residents dislike tourists and make no bones showing their disgust but fortunately we didn’t experience any of this resentment.
One thing really going for Barcelona (as compared with other major cities in Spain) is its beach. Once home to Catalan fishermen, La Barceloneta is now a vibrant neighborhood by the Mediterranean Sea famous for its sandy shores, small clubs and boutique restaurants and bars serving seafood tapas.
We were in luck. Sun was out. And the sandy shore wasn’t so crowded with sunbathers. The seafront restaurants had empty seats which we readily claimed. As a former fishing village, its claim to fame as the best source of seafood is justified. Allegedly, the best Paella de Marisco is served here. Big fan of seafood here so I’m always on the lookout for those briny fresh harvests from the sea.
Moritz Bar . I had my cava here. Much like Prosecco, its Italian cousin. Perfect with anchovies on toast. The wait staff were so nice that one called me “Ate” (older sister) even though he could pass as my son. I was rather expecting tourists patronising this seafront barbut instead found locals. A good sign. The prices were also quite reasonable considering its prime spot for sunset views, sea breeze and shore access. Nothing was outrageously priced. That was a pleasant surprise.
Coming from Montjuic where we endured the heat and the uphill climbs, we were prepped to just go easy here in the playa (beach) and then perhaps check out the mercato in the neighborhood. Anything to take our minds off the frustration of visiting Fundacion Miro in Montjuic on a Monday when it was closed! The sea breeze not only ruffled our hair, but clearly emptied our minds of earlier woes. Just that I kind of expected temps to drop as the evening progressed but we were constantly reminded that summer has begun.
Failed to wait till sunset. Couldn’t wait till 9pm. Must be lovely in this part of coastal Barcelona. But our tired bodies pulled us off our seats to start our trek back to our hotel. Maybe next time. Meanwhile, we passed old residential buildings along narrow streets and alleys with laundry hanging from balconies or windows. A few more blocks walking back to the metro station was a row of seafood restaurants and lively bars. Ciao!
Thought we’d start our New Year right with a visit to our favorite charity projects . Always the most appropriate way to start the year. As we uphold Fr. Boyet’s legacy and mission, we likewise took note of how blessed we are the previous years.
Fr. Boyet in Bahay at Yaman ni San Martin de PorresMy Sydney-based nephew and his family plus US-based friends including my godson.
While my friends spent the holidays abroad, I stayed home to welcome my balikbayan kin and friends. A joyous occasion always to meet up and celebrate with them. Friends from school are truly a treasure — I’ve always reminded apos about this. While in school, you choose who’d be your lifetime friends. One can’t choose family (ouch) but one can choose friends. So there. Their friends — some have since migrated — are my “adopted apos” and like them, I am just as excited to see them.
No matter how far, it’s only a P2P ride away to be with these friends.
Apo’s BFF who’s been my “adopted apo” since their grade school days.
Oh yes, there are no forthcoming trips yet but we sure welcomed the year with as many Resto bookings. Besides that, there’s the appointments with my doctors and lunch/coffee dates with Mu. It’s only been 10 days this first month of the year, yet we seem to have filled out our calendar good! Same old grind? It’s 2025, but we continue to celebrate. Thank You, for the energy. The opportunities to meet and hug people we’ve missed!
Lunch at ChingoloOur iced matcha latte and shakerato coffee at 12/10
This wraps up my pre-sailing jitters and excitement and the 12 nights enjoyed cruising on Celebrity Edge. Not my first cruise but my first on Celebrity Cruises. Just learned it’s been acquired by Royal Caribbean and that’s good. I’ve sailed with Royal Caribbean before with my family and that’s one of my memorable trips to this day. I must say they sure know their business and I couldn’t complain, really.
The years were 1986. 2000. 2003. 2019. And now 2024. From the first visit to this recent trip, I am so happy to visit the same spots, while still leaving more for the succeeding trips. Who knows when the next one will be? There is simply too much to see, enjoy and cherish. The old monuments are still there. Many of the major museums are still free. The West End musicals and plays are still way cheaper than if you were to watch it in Broadway. The dining scene has improved way over my expectations —- as tastes and cuisines have merged and made for a gastronomic experiment. The tea and coffee scene, along with the pastries, is still divine. And the markets and little shops — especially the bookstores and vintage shops — an experience not to be missed.
The best buns we’ve tried. Notting Hill. Buns from Home. 2024. London
As for Liverpool, the confidence wasn’t 100% when I pulled this into our itinerary. I love the Beatles but I wasn’t sure my apo and her mom would enjoy the vibe here. Still, I thought the city has way more than the Beatles and there’s the cafe and pies scene like everywhere in UK, plus the museums. The waterscape may also provide a change in scenery, or so I thought. Well, I actually worried for nothing. My 2 girls loved it here. It likewise helped we had a good hotel. (Trivia: this 70 y.o. booked the hotel and they gave us a room for the “elderly”. Read: handicapped or someone with mobility issues. The room had installed handrails everywhere and the toilet is actually as big as a good-sized room!)
About Edinburgh, this is a trip down memory lane for me. Was here in 1986, at the height of winter, alone. No digicams, no selfie-sticks, no credit cards, no cellphones. I stayed longer than planned when I met a couple who asked me to dogsit for a couple of days in a cottage not too far from the Holyrood Park. I didn’t realize the dog was a Rottweiler who loves to cuddle. But I had a couple of days in a cottage all by myself, rent-free and with full access to the refrigerator filled with good stuff to make filling sandwiches which I packed whenever out of the house. I kept the litter box clean and walked the dog to the nearby park. But I dared NOT bathe this pet that stood taller than me! This explains why I chose an apartment near the same park for our Edinburgh stay. I couldn’t remember the place where I stayed in 1986, but wanted to reminisce the same familiar spots. No energy though this time to hike around.
Three generations. We’ve made family trips, more often pre-pandemic, but of late, I’ve been doing more “gramping”. That’s the new slang for travels with a grandparent. I love it. I craft the major itinerary, meaning I decide on the destinations, work out the hotels and transport. Sometimes, including the major walking tours too. The youngest takes care of navigating us through the cities, researches and decides where to eat, museums and attractions to visit. Her mom is the one who keeps us sane, minding our bags, the groceries and the DIY breakfasts and snacks in the bag! We’re a team. My kind of family travels. Looking forward to the next one!
The real reason why we are here. Anna’s London Exhibit 2024
Back in London from Edinburgh. Trained in at King’s Cross and checked out Platform 9 3/4 before heading home to our London crib. Post-exhibit event (the major reason why we are here), we spent an entire day reliving Nottinghill — that Julia Roberts and Hugh Grant starrer with that famous quote “I’m just a girl standing in front of a boy, asking him to love her.” That was way back in 1999. The first time I set foot here in 1986 pre-Nottinghill the movie, I just remember this area as a spot for book lovers and shoppers for antiques and curio items. The coffee and scone scene is still fabulous — tried Cheeky Scone — and was not disappointed. It was a long walk from Nottinghill up to Chinatown bordering SOHO but we needed our nourishment after visiting the book shops, that famous blue door from the blockbuster movie and all the quaint curio shops left and right of Portobello Road.
King’s Cross Train Station is a fabulous structure but it is now more famous for this spot. Thanks to JK Rowling’s Harry Potter . King’s Cross Station
Now, Portobello Road just off Nottinghill Gate Station gives off bohemian vibes. There are countless vintage shops, delis and coffee shops. Very vibrant, and quite busy too. It is tempting to shop around or just browse through books in those little bookstores that’s hardly the norm in big cities. I even found a basket full of wrapped books where a conspicuous sign state “blind date with a book”. What a creative idea! There’s a hint of what the book is all about and it’s like a teaser of what you’d find upon unwrapping the package.
Nottinghill Spots
Book and film lovers will find a haven in Nottinghill. But do watch the movie first for context. 😉 Otherwise you’d just think of this bohemian village in London as a place for shoppers and maybe as a dating place. Besides, that “blue door” can just be another door to anyone unless you have seen, and enjoyed the movie. Soon after finding the movie spots, enjoying the scones with coffee and shopping for cutesy vintage items, we went for more walks in search of a serious meal. Four Seasons at Gerrard Street was our choice for early Chinese dinner. Now this may sound like a day of eating, shopping and fangirling to you, but that’s exactly what it was. When in London, as with anywhere else, you’re free to make your own memories. Ta Ta!
It’s been 38 years and finally, I’m back. Hardly had any photos back in 1986 and visited only a few sites then — pre-digicams, no Google maps, no uber. This time around, we’ve pre-booked our train rides, apartment, Johnnie Walker experience and tours of the Old Town and New Town for 2 straight days and left the other days for whatever we fancy doing at the moment. It’s only Day 2 and we have 2 more days to go. But my legs are up from all that walking uphill and downhill and my arms are sore holding an umbrella up. I promise to wear a raincoat tomorrow if it still rains! Or maybe we should do the Museums when the weather doesn’t cooperate.
First Order of the Day: Johnnie WalkerNext Order: Haggis, Neeps and Tatties
As soon as we got off the train and dropped our bags in our rented apartment, we took the road via the nearby Holyrood Park and booked a ride to the Johnnie Walker Shop for a tour much like the one we did in Amsterdam. Enjoyed the history and the rest of the Scotch Whisky tasting experience. One even takes a “quiz” so you can enjoy your own “blend”. Personalized. Customized. Enough to rev up our appetite for a dinner of haggis with neeps and tatties, steak pies, fish and chipsat the Tolbooth Tavern which has stood the test of time the last 200 years. The next day we found another 200 year old lunch place — easy to do here in Edinburgh. Old is in vogue so it’s quite interesting to try “new things” in this Scottish capital. Like the Harry Potter tours. But please… no ghost tours for me.
Diagon Alley inspired by Victoria StreetElephant House is the “birthplace” of Harry Potter. A cafe where J.K. Rowling wrote the famous series.
But if you ask me, I like best the strolls around Dean Village by the water of Leith, and the park around Scott’s Monument. And yes, the view of Edinburgh Castle from the Vennel Steps is one of the unbeatable shots. Just be prepared to scale those steps! And when visiting Holyrood Palace, check out the Holyrood Park and meet new canine friends who enjoy all the grassy space. As for Arthur’s Seat — I have watched “One Day”, both the movie starring Anne Hathaway and the series (which I prefer), but I’m still not convinced I’d like to do this hike. But then again, we still have 2 more days. Between the hike and the museums here, you know where the preferences lie.
Gramping. It’s becoming a trend where grandparents travel with grandchildren. It can be fun, but it can also be disastrous for some especially if there are no shared interests and food preferences. I have taken trips with the “apos” (grandchildren) before — once to Madrid to stay with a niece, and another time to Sydney to visit our relatives. But lately, we have taken trips together on our own, staying in hotels or apartments, charting a travel itinerary based on what the 3 of us wish to do and deciding each day on what and where to dine. Mostly, we ended up visiting museums and cultural attractions but we also managed to squeeze in a concert in each of the trips. The very first gramping was in 2023 starting in Amsterdam where we literally exhausted as many museums we can cover, checking out the bars and sleeping in most mornings. Our days started late unless we planned some day trips and we almost always managed to eat well. From Amsterdam, we took trains to move around and based ourselves in Brussels, Brugges, Nimes and Avignon before moving to Paris. Food porn all the way without minding the calories as we burned them just walking all around. It was a wonderful trip and we delighted on our food discoveries while tracing Van Gogh’s provençal life. Wrote many blogs about this gramping adventure but here’s the blog summary.
It has been under a year since that gramping when we found ourselves haphazardly planning a 2nd gramping. This time to Italy. An invitation for my nieta to join a few other Filipino artists to exhibit their works in Venezia is simply too difficult to pass up. And so it went that I caught up with them on their last day in Venice, as I was coming off another trip. The plan was to train from Venice to Florence where we based ourselves and did day trips to many other Tuscan spots before settling in Rome where we flew back to our Manila nest. Just 2 weeks. Too many places we wish to visit but not enough time. As I came off another trip, the apos crafted our travel itinerary right down to where and what we’d eat as well as some time for a cafe crawl and bar hopping. Once more, we had a wonderful time. Never thought I’d pile up so many journals for this rather short trip but the memories just overflow and required some “order” for proper safekeeping!
By this time, we 3 are pretty sure we travel well together. Apos are now quite adept crafting travel itineraries, hotel bookings, train reservations and dining options. The last item is important. With only 3 of us, it is nearly impossible to share meals if we don’t have similar food preferences. We also share the same passion for a good brew and gelato breaks are a given whenever we’re traveling. Happy hours are delightfully enjoyed and this is when we love chatting about our favourite spots and plan where else to go. We have also mastered the art of grocery shopping for some lazy dinners and breakfasts while doing our laundry.
And now, we’re off again. The full activity in UK beckons so watch this page for updates. Ciao for now.
If I had my way, I’d either go to Lake Como or head south to Sicily. Perhaps even jump off from there to visit Malta, which has been in my bucket list for sometime. But this is an unplanned trip and the principal destination is Venezia for nieta’s participation in an art exhibit there. Met up with them, spent just another night in Venice and hopped on a train the next day to Firenze. Having based ourselves there for 7 days and 6 nights, we spent 3 whole days doing excursions to explore Tuscany and the Italian Riviera. After a week, off we went to the Eternal City. Not enough time to cover as much ground in historic Rome but we managed quite well. Nothing rushed. We skipped some but enjoyed whatever we managed to visit. This blog summary lists all the cities and neighborhoods we ticked off in about 2 weeks. Just click the links for more photos and details. Ciao!
After a visit to Maxxi Museum of Contemporary Art, we took a cab to Trastevere for dinner. Tourists and locals alike seemed to be all here, lining up for dinner. We’ve chosen to try Tonarello, in the Piazza Della Scala. We each ordered pasta as our “primi” and then shared a bowl of mussels. I know, we didn’t want to disappoint the Italians by making a meal out of our pasta dishes — Cacio y Pepe, Carbonara and Amatriciana — but those carbs served in their pans can be very filling. We love the moules, as well as the Prosecco. We even love the chaos and the noise you get when eating al fresco in some corner in Trastevere. The “shouts” to those in line when a table is vacated is a practiced skill. For desserts of gelato and tiramisu, we tried another barwithin the same area. As in somewhere more quiet. 😉
TrastevereChurch of Santa Maria Della Scala
Because traffic is banned from some sections like the piazzas, outdoor dining especially when it’s near-summer is truly delightful. Just around the block, tables under huge umbrellas were laid out with handicrafts, artisan jewellery, art pieces, and other curios. There was also an abundance of antique bric-a-brac in the outdoor stalls as well as in tiny vintage shops. The good coffee shops — called bars here — are easy to spot. There is almost always a line. Same goes for gelaterias which are spread all over Rome.
Al fresco Dining in TrastevereSant’ Eustachio Coffee on the go
Not sure if it’s because of the time of day we visited, but Monti seems less crowded. We had breakfast in one of the bars here. A breakfast which may well be a post-meal dessert as we ordered tiramisu and cannolis to go with our coffee. Well, we’re in Rome! The busker music then drew us out of the bar and into these cutesy, tiny vintage shops and record bars which of course took some of our precious time. All’s well, we’re having a good time. Not rushing, just browsing. At mid-morning, some activities have just began. Like bread deliveries to trattorias, shop openings, street-sweeping, etc. You can tell these Italians start their days late. And enjoy their coffee under the morning sun. (We took our breakfast table INSIDE).
Monti Neighborhood Monti
We’re glad we spent time in this neighborhood. The vibrant scene has such a local flavor that’s missing in many tourist traps. Of course, The tourists have already discovered these bohemian spots but somehow, that old character remains. Was trying to figure out what changed — and I’m guessing the tourists are here “on their own”, taking less photos, and NOT herded around in groups with a tour guide. No umbrellas! No pushing for that impossible “sans crowd” posterity shot before a fountain, a building, a Bernini sculpture. No cam whores! Why? Besides, the visitors seem to be more interested in the trattorias and osterias here. They must be hungry like us too, so the concerns and priorities differ. What do you think? 🤔
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