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Away for nearly 3 months, I am now nicely settled. Home again. Back to the old grind. The same routine. The same food trip!

 

 

There were many food items I missed and you bet I didn’t waste time lining them up to stir up fond memories 😉 First on my list of must-eat was my favorite pancit. Now there are many versions of pancit (fried noodles) in this country and each version I pigged on. Shamelessly, I asked my good friend to cook my favorite pancit from Cavite — the one you eat with kilawing puso and culao toppings, along with a good sprinkling of Chicharon bits! Happiness :))

 

 

 

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Then there’s the trip to Razon’s for my halo halo fix and….. yes, the pancit palabok. Again, with generous dollops of Chicharon bits. I’m not sure if it’s really the pancit or the Chicharon that got me hooked. But really, any version of the pancit does it for moí!

 

 

 

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Back home, Manang Trining’s pancit is what everyone in the family comes home to after being away. For sure, this pancit stirs up many fond memories as every occasion is celebrated with this dish taking the middle spot on the dining table. The Chicharon is a side serving — like it’s “optional” yet I have yet to see someone foregoing that option when feasting on Manang Trining’s pancit.

 

 

 

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The Chicharon never misses making an appearance when it’s the Pancit Luglug or Pancit Malabon version. Some crushed, some in bigger chunks. Some plain Chicharon cracklings, others with a sliver of pork attached to the fatty stuff.

 

 

 

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Which brings us back to the question. Is it the Chicharon? Or the pancit?

 

 

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Spain ruled over the Philippines for nearly 400 years. Does it show? I’ve always said that Philippines is your “Latin country” in Asia. We do not have temples and wats, but the archipelago is dotted with many churches which see regular Mass-going Sunday crowds.

 

 

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UST. 400 years of history.

 

 

The oldest university in Asia? Only last year, this Catholic University celebrated its 400 years of existence since April 1611. A quadri-centennial celebration which drew in many alumni from all corners of the world. I had many friends based abroad who came home just for this event. It was a grandiose celebration, helped along by funds donated by its alumni who spent many happy university years here and saw the event as a payback for the education they earned.

 

 

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UST: Oldest University in Asia

 

 

Long before the Americans came, the Spaniards gave us education. This is the oldest university in the Philippines and the whole of Asia. It is also the only university ever visited by 2 popes 3 times: once by Pope Paul VI on Nov. 28, 1970, and twice by Pope John Paul II on Feb. 18, 1981 and January 13, 1995.

 

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University of Santo Tomas.

 

 

The students and alumni called “Thomasians” count many prominent Filipinos. Our national hero Dr. Jose P. Rizal (JPR) studied medicine here before he left for and continued his studies in Madrid, Spain. UST also takes pride in counting 4 Presidents among its alumni: Manuel Quezon, Sergio Osmeña, Jose Laurel and Diosdado Macapagal.

 

 

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The university belt bears witness to daily chaos. Traffic is bad and the streets are crowded with way too many pedestrians and ambulant vendors. The university has the largest campus grounds in the entire city and on the day I visited, I found many students enjoying a breezy afternoon within the “campus park”. A luxury I must say in this tropical country of over 90 million people.

 

 

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Next time I visit, I’d check out the university museum.

 

 

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Long before the Don Bosco Salesians sold it, we have been dropping by for their yummy and affordable gelato 🍦and pasta 🍝dishes. Simply called “Amici”, it was more like your neighborhood cafeteria. You get your tray, line up, and point to the dish you like. The “turo turo” concept was not lost in this cafeteria then run and managed by the Salesian priests. You can order a bowl of sinigang 🍵or dinuguan to share with a friend, or try the Italian “longganiza” or sausages, or the roast chicken. My favorite then was their roast turkey. Oh yes, they had turkey! Whenever I needed my turkey fix, I get it here without having to buy the whole bird.

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From a simple neighborhood cafeteria, they started selling gelato, then pasta, then pizza. Thanks to the Italian priest managing the place in the early days, my Italian favorites couldn’t be more Italian! The cafeteria set-up meant diners get their own utensils, glasses and pitchers of water. One also orders soda by the liter, to share among friends around the table. The condiments section even included chili flakes, olive oil and Parmesan cheese ….. but not for long.

 

 

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Delish. Not pricey. Where else can you order authentic gelato for P35 a scoop? Or pizza for P240? My favorite aglio olio was then selling for only P115 a plate with ample dollops of Parmesan flakes. You bet more diners came. The lines grew longer. The diners extended beyond the pack of noontime mass goers in the nearby Don Bosco Church. ⛪The gelato line up counted more flavors. More cakes 🍰adorned the display cabinets.

 

 

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The Salesians may have been surprised about Amici’s instant success. And running a dining place is truly not within their mission. Sold to the same group which used to own Red Ribbon, the place is now called Cara Mia. But to “old timers” like me, it would still be Amici. The place has since abandoned the cafeteria set-up, introduced more Italain dishes, AND UPPED THE PRICES. That’s the sad part. My gelato is now double the original price. And the pasta and pizza now sell for at least 50% more. Service is far better though. And the place is dolled up and looks much neater. They even have branches too. Plus you can phone in your orders for home delivery.

 

 

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After being away for some time, I longed for comfort food and found many here. In fact, I dropped in twice in 3 days and ordered the same stuff. Creatures of habit? Perhaps. but judging by the new desserts line-up, I’m sure to pick up new favorites ☺

 

 

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Amici or Cara Mia is right within the Don Bosco compound near the Church. Entrance via Arnaiz Road (Pasay Road) near the corner of Chino Roces (Pasong Tamo Street). You can park behind the dining place by entering the gate to the Don Bosco Printing Press (between Amici and the gate to the church) or you can park at Waltermart at the corner and just walk to Amici. There is a branch in Ayala Triangle but I much prefer this original place 😊


 

Four months. Four Countries. November 2011 through February 2012. Extended till May 2012. Vietnam. Thailand . Bhutan. Spain. Each country a delight to visit. Each country with its own distinct, unique cuisine. The languages compete with the culinary delights to render you “tongue-twisted”.

 

 

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It lasted about a week each in Vietnam and Bhutan. And some 4 nights in Bangkok, Thailand. Then all of 10 weeks in Spain. My taste buds were never as confused as they were in the last 4-6 months. But if this is what confusion means, I wouldn’t mind being in that state for a prolonged period. 😊😍😘

 

 

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Vietnamese cuisine tastes “clean” and subtle. Happily combining Asian flavors with French mastery of the kitchen, the dishes are beautifully plated even if purchased off a corner stall in the market. Besides, Vietnamese dishes are more veggies than meats which lessen one’s guilt but not the pleasure. The same aesthetic value can be said of Thai dishes. The vibrant colors combine so well in every single plate or tray whether they are vegetables, fruits or meats. And the sauces! Each single dish presents a variety of options by way of sauces. Major decisions!

 

 

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The food in Bhutan is an altogether different story. There isn’t much by way of meat choices unless you are craving for yak burgers. Vegetarians would have a field day here in this Himalayan kingdom but the spices are just too much for my liking. But I like their mountain rice and the simplicity of their vegetable dumplings and soups.

 

 

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Aroused by the flavors of the Orient , my taste buds were ready to be assaulted by the varied, meaty, cheesy, olive-oily dishes of Spain. From the very beginning, I knew 10 weeks won’t be long enough to try all 500 or so bacalao dishes. But really, I can’t complain.

 

 

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We tried and compared the churros con chocolate from Chocolateria De San Gines and Valor, we sampled the croquetas and quezos in Mercado de San Miguel, we dined in 101 Tapas in Andalucia, traveled to Valencia for their authentic and original paella, ate not once but twice in Segovia for that cochinillo we’ve dreamed about, relished the morcilla from Burgos and the Leche flan and crema de Catalan of Barcelona.

 

 

So, after 4-6 months….. What do you think am I craving for? Sure I miss those Vietnamese rolls, the pad Thai, momos, Jamon y Quezos . But nothing beats food from home. I shamelessly requested a good friend to cook my favorite pancit, ordered halo-halo in the middle of a board meeting, drove all the way to Binondo for my lumpia and quikiam fix, waited mornings for the taho vendor, emptied my dish of dinuguan and puto in record time, and to this day, still dreaming of bibingka with kesong Puti and my favorite seagrapes (Lato) salad. Pinoy food rocks! 😝

 

 

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This is a Phlog. That’s short for Photo Blog. Here goes. My life in Madrid in Phlog.

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Which room? The Rest Room. The Toilets. Water Closet. WC. CR. Comfort Room. Ladies Room . (Sorry, can’t check out the Men’s Room). By whatever title it’s called. By however it is named. This all important room gives away a lot. Oh yeah. Kid you not. Show me this Very Important Room (V.I.R.), and I’d tell ya what place you’ve been to.

 

 

The Window Looks Out to the Canals of Venice 😉

 

 

Back when I was in Germany, I found one that says “Hansel” and “Gretel”. Guess what. I waited with crossed knees for others to make the trip, before making my entrance. Why? I couldn’t remember which of Hansel and Gretel is the girl. It could have been an easy chore if it were named “Jack” and “Jill”. But nah……Hansel and Gretel it was. Another time, I stayed in a B&B in Venice that didn’t look much from the outside. But I got hooked as soon as I saw that the V.I.R. had a window looking out to that famous canal where the melody of O Sole Mio wafts in the air as one makes that all important body function. So there. From then on, I have paid more attention to this Very Important Room (my V.I.R.).

 

 

Well, it’s clean.

 

 

Years ago, it was enough to have them clean. Working water closets. Mostly all white. Then, the more modern places started sporting livelier colors. Pink. Sky Blue. Sunshine Yellow. Neon Green. They even started growing plants in that V.I.R. And started hanging paintings or drawings to brighten up the walls.

 

 

Antonio’s @Tagaytay

 

 

These days, they occupy more space. Some even have wide open windows. Wide enough for one to think twice before making full use of those precious seats. Obviously, those wide windows open up to either a garden, a body of water, or the mountains. No chance of a peeping Tom lurking around. (Though one is never sure, of course.)

 

 

Panglao Island Nature Resort @Bohol

Chateau Hestia @Tagaytay

 

 

Whenever we go to some fancy restaurant or hotel, I make it a point to visit the V.I.R. It says a lot about the place, don’t you think? Frankly, they should pay as much attention here as they would to their kitchen and dining areas. Especially if the meal is served over a 2hour period. For sure, a trip to the V.I.R. is inevitable.

 

So, how did these fancy and not so fancy dining outlets fare? You tell me!

HOME SWEET HOME


 

 

This is the moment where I take a break from travel blogging. Back home now after 2 and 1/2 months based in Madrid, after 42 blogs on WordPress and 5 more on TravelBlog. I was busy apartment-hunting with my niece, IKEA-shopping for furniture, waiting and wasting lotsa time for the delivery men, and getting serious with household chores. Well, sort of.

 

 

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So, how was it? I never made it out of Madrid in the first 4 weeks. In fact, the first week spent in a hotel was most boring, while the 2nd week apartment-hunting provided the excitement. I did most of my Madrid walks during the first week as there wasn’t much to do in the hotel. Besides, wifi sucks in that hotel.

 

 

The 3rd and 4th weeks were devoted to furnishing the apartment, having the appliances and furniture delivered and assembled. I enjoyed this part. In between, my daily trips were largely to Carrefour, the palenque and the Chinese stores for food and little things like sandwich bags, detergents and other cleaning stuff.

 

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By the 2nd month, we were nicely settled and welcomed our first batch of guests. All girls. No room for men guests as there is only 1 toilet and 1 bedroom. The sofa bed in the living room warmed many backs. My “survival cooking” survived. No one grew hungry, for sure. While we had no TV and wifi yet, we spent a lot of time chatting, laughing and eating.

 

 

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By this time, I have already mastered the metro system, the “free days and viewing hours” of most museums, the bus system and gained “Suki” from the palenque. My favorite vendor is this man who would always offer me a sliver of Jamon or Quezo to try. “Para prober” he always says. And I always gladly accepted. ☺☺

 

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I’ve spent Semana Santa in Andalusia, a long drive to Valencia and a last weekend in Barcelona. In between, there were day trips to Segovia, Avila, El Escorial, Valle de Los Caidos, Toledo, Aranjuez, and Alcala de Henares using the bus, the regional train, or the fast train. I experienced ALL seasons in the last 10 weeks. In Valencia, temp went from 7 Celsius to 27 Celsius in 8 hours. In Segovia, it snowed. Crazy, I know. I have been to Costa del Sol, Malaga and Granada before and felt no craving to revisit. Not yet. I would have wanted to see Salamanca again but there was no chance. Shopping for gifts to bring home took precedence. Perhaps next time.

 

 

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Now I’m home…. in sweltering heat. I miss my daily walks in cool weather. I miss dragging my “old lady’s” shopping trolley whenever I set out to do the groceries or marketing. I miss my pair of boots which I left in the apartment. Back to normal. Back to “Lola mode”. No more solo trips except to the beauty parlor. My elves waited too long and it’s time to catch up with one another.

 

 

Since I arrived, I have completed all my blogs on my Spanish “holiday” (or have I?) and stayed home most of the time. It breaks all newly- formed habits and patterns. I even miss our washing machine in Madrid! Oh well……..


Live like it’s the last day of your life? Naaah. If that’s my mantra, I’d likely just stay home and spend time with family. Or pray in a convent or church.

 

I live like there are many days ahead to celebrate life. I go to the Prado and take in just a few. Knowing there would be other days to enjoy more. Leisurely. No rush. I visit Barcelona for a weekend thinking there would be many more weekends to spend there. I love visiting and revisiting places I enjoyed. That explains why I take photos in the exact same places where I had my photos taken years ago. The unwanted pounds. The unwanted lines and wrinkles. Little reminders of time past. Who cares? I’m enjoying life. Without the rush.

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It’s not that I recommend it, but more than a few times I find myself buying a ticket from a vending machine to catch a train departing in less than 5 minutes. Imagine the thrill of brisk walking to the escalators, down to the ramps or platform, and hearing the train doors close behind you after having just hopped in.

 

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And how about the excitement of reaching your destination? No matter how much you’ve read up on the place, I like the momentary ignorance and madness of deciding which way to go out of the train or bus station. Do I turn right, left or go straight? When I went to Aranjuez, I wondered whether I’m getting off in the middle of a forest. That’s how it looked just before the train stopped and I heard the announcement that we have reached Aranjuez. I walked for about 10 minutes to reach the Royal Palace and Gardens. No one to ask as most others who got off the train took the bus or were fetched by friends or relatives. It would feel the same way going to Valle de Los Caidos, except that most bus passengers are likely tourists like you too.

 

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Fortunately, Spain has a superb transport system. The Metro, regional trains, fast trains, buses are all so easy to deal with. And clean! I also found the Spanish very friendly and helpful. Once, there was this middle-aged lady who actually walked with me for some blocks till the last corner just before my destination. In Alcala de Henares, the young students tried to be very precise with their directions (a plaza or square lined with plane trees, a building with many columns, a house with bronze statues and a fountain, etc).

 

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It helps that google allows me to do virtual tours and obtain directions. While I do get maps and check out the attractions in each place, I always seek to get images of the palaces, museums, parks or whatever else I intend to visit. This allows me to easily “spot” the sites I intend to visit.

 

 

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What I love about traveling solo is I get to linger longer in places I like, and eat whenever it suits me. The only drawback is that I don’t get to eat all I like. I mean, you can only order so much for yourself, right? No one to share with. My routine is normally to eat small portions but more often, so I get a variety of the foods I’d like to try without appearing like a glutton.

 

 

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Good research, with lots of allowances for spontaneity, and a good pair of walking shoes. Or boots to keep those walking legs warm when the temp drops. This is important. No way I’m walking anywhere unless I have comfortable footwear. Many make this mistake of looking fashionable rather than comfortable. Trust me, they are not mutually exclusive.

 

 

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So who says you’re too old to travel solo? I have no talent in the kitchen. Just survival cooking for moí. I’m pretty neat at home but it’s not like I enjoy domestic chores. I love to read, but my pocketbooks travel with me. A bench in the park and a cup of good brew make perfect companions. I get my adrenaline rush chasing trains, snapping photos and eating local delicacies. When I am home, I am more likely doing my “research” or blogging rather than busy with my knitting needles. C’est la vie! 😉😉😉

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Why ever not? Stayed away from my beloved pig for some weeks since Segovia. Time to have that memorable moment to savor before going home to Manila.

 

 

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Casa Botin or Sobrinos de Botin is in the Guinness Book of Records as the OLDEST RESTAURANT in continuous operation in the world. Established in 1725, its claim to fame is even bolstered by an endorsement from no less than Ernest Hemingway who once said the place serves the best cochinillo. Like Hemingway, many Spanish and Western authors have been lured to this place and actually had the restaurant as setting in their novels.

 

 

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Be warned though. The place is a tourist trap. Make sure you have reservations. Decide whether you’re having the suckling pig or the suckling lamb. Both are good. And if you’re a party of say 4pax, you can actually share a couple of cochinillo and an order of Cordero. Tell the waiter you are sharing and they’d take care of splitting the 3 orders into 4 platefuls of the coveted meat. Then share a pitcher of sangria or a bottle of house wine. No sense ordering the set menu of €43 per pax when the included dessert is just some dollop of ice cream. And if you’re skipping dessert, you might as well order the morcilla from Burgos for appetizers, if you like.

 

 

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After your Botin dinner, walk off all that cholesterol to the Mercado de San Miguel for errrrr…… more cholesterol. There’s a bounty of choices here. Nougats or turrones, crema de Catalan, meringues, yogurt, etc. And if by chance you’re able to work up an appetite other than for desserts, visit this TV guy named Senen and check out his tortilla española. Buen Provecho!

 

 

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How best to spend €3? Buy a ticket to the Museo Sorolla!

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This is the house where the great Spanish painter Joaquin Sorolla lived with his lovely wife and muse Clotilde. This is where he painted in his spacious, lovely studio. Imagine the great painter here with his wife and 3 lovely children. And the gardens!

 

 

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Joaquin and Clotilde make for a truly handsome couple. Judging by their portraits, they seem to be so much in love! There is a sala exclusively for Clotilde. The Spanish Master was truly inspired to paint this lovely sitter! And their children….. my favorite is Sorolla’s painting of Clotilde and the baby. So much love and warmth there. . . . . in an expanse of white blanket!

 

 

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Have you ever been to a house with so much good vibes? For a Spanish villa this size, it’s amazing how all those positive vibes of love and adoration seem to be in the air all throughout the Casa!

 

 

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If you’re planning to visit, bring a book to read in the lovely garden. It’s not big, but I absolutely enjoyed the villa’s tiny but well-appointed garden. Hard to believe it’s just off a busy street in the city. Come to think of it, you may enjoy the garden without even paying the €3. The admission fee is for viewing the artworks inside the lovely villa. But please don’t scrimp on this one. When you come out of the villa after viewing Sorolla’s paintings and appreciating the beauty of his former art studio and residence, you’d actually be feeling good. There is something so “positive” inside that house that is worth more than the measly fee you paid.

 

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