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The Birds of Eden or Whales of Plettenberg Bay?

Filed under: Africa, Travel, travels — Leave a comment

December 16, 2012

This blog was written some months back. For the life of me, I couldn’t figure out how I missed publishing it. I beg your indulgence. This “back blog” completes my series on South Africa’s Western Cape.

This morning, we bundled and layered up good for a cold day at sea. No matter how cold it gets, we were ready for the whales. Humpbacks or Southern Rights, we’re eager to see them whales. The sun was out. But the water’s far from calm. Our premium whale-watching cruise was cancelled for safety reasons.

We were hoping till the last minute. Quite frankly, I hardly paid attention to the majestic seascape offered by Plettenberg Bay as I mulled over the idea of seeing them Southern Rights in their own territory. All too often, our sleepy demeanor was disturbed whenever our coach coasts along the Adriatic and Indian Seaboard while our Tour Director points somewhere off the blue waters. A whale? Where? I couldn’t trust my eyesight and I simply obliged by snapping photos here and there. Upon review, I was dismayed to find nothing other than what looked like rocks off the ocean.

Well, no whales today. And we leave tomorrow for our safari. Tough luck. Instead, we headed for the Birds of Eden to while away that frustrating afternoon. On other days, this could have been an interesting afternoon. The photos speak for themselves. Those are beautiful birds. But. They. Are. Birds. 🙂

As we exited the bird sanctuary, we found a Monkey park right beside it. Also baboons right outside the bird park. They all looked busy. Either they found something to eat and share among themselves or they are simply on a “stroll”. Either way, they scare me. They look very aggressive. So unlike the safari “beasts” who didn’t seem interested in humans.

And so, the day ended with some despair over the botched whale watching adventure. Coming on the heels of another botched adventure (cable car ride to the Table Mountain, no less!), we knew we just had to find our amusement elsewhere. Like a food adventure? Very well. Thank God South African cuisine didn’t disappoint.

Tags: Africa, Birds of Eden, Plettenberg Bay, South Africa, Southern Rights, Western Cape, Whales

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Strange Conversations in Sagada

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 4 Comments

December 12, 2012

It was a long weekend. And since I’ve long wished to visit Sagada, my niece arranged everything for this trip. Deprived of many winks, I wasn’t in the best of moods when we made our breakfast stop.

Me: Chow King? Chow King for breakfast?
Driver: The group in the 2nd van wants a Chinese breakfast.
Me: Hmmmm. I’m walking to the corner where there’s a Jollibee. (*not smiling*)

Me: Coffee and Hamdesal for me. Where are the newspapers?
Jollibee Girl: *no reaction*
Me: Bakit ayaw mo sumagot? (Why won’t you answer?) *grumpy now*

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Niece takes over, and I move to take a seat and a table for us. As it turned out, no hamdesal for me. The girl at the counter took my order as another breakfast rice meal. Hungry, I had no energy to insist on my first order. *looking defeated*

Mood Changer: First Sight of Banaue Rice Terraces

Banaue Rice Terraces

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Me (in SUMAGUING Cave): Paano katagal ito? (How long will this take?)
Cave Guide: 1 1/2 hours. Pero sa inyo, baka 2 1/2 hours. (In your case, maybe 2 1/2 hours)

Mood Changer (looking at companions): Will you take my photos, please?

Spelunking in Sumaguing Cave. DAW. :))

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Venue: Log Cabin (arrived 1 hour early for 7pm buffet dinner)

Me: I’m an hour early for my dinner reservation. Can I sit by the bar while sipping a glass of wine?
Wait Staff (Girl): No wine by the glass. You must order 1 bottle.

—- The wait staff (Boy) squeezed himself behind the bar and snagged his shirt.—–

Wait Staff (Boy): OMG. (Some expletives…. then makes out like he’s about to cry)
Me (*feeling sorry*): Sayang. It’s a nice shirt, but you can stitch it up.
Wait Staff (Boy): It’s Chanel. Very expensive. (Slips out, comes back in a new shirt)
Me: That’s another nice shirt.
Wait Staff (Boy): It’s another Chanel.

Wait Staff (Boy): Your dinner table is outside. You can sit by the bonfire meanwhile.
Me: I want a table inside. Too cold outside.

Later…….

Wait Staff (Girl): I got you a table inside. Follow me. (They set up a table INSIDE 1 of the rooms)
Me: It’s a small table. We’re 7 pax.
Wait Staff (Girl): Nothing I can do. You made late reservations.
Me: That’s odd. We were told days before of our confirmed reservations.
Wait Staff (Girl): Well, I don’t handle reservations here. Blah Blah Blah

Later……… A group of 4 complaining ladies were also brought inside the room. Guess what, they had ANOTHER table set up good for 4, while 7 of us squeezed ourselves around a table good for 5.

Mood Changer: I stuffed my plate with food from the buffet. (The spread was a disappointment, but that’s another story. I got mostly veggies as they “rationed” the carving. When we went for seconds, there was none left. They offer you PANCIT instead )

They set up a SMALL table good for 5 pax (we were 7) INSIDE one of the bedrooms. When we said the table’s too small, they ho-hummed us. Later, they set up ANOTHER table for 4 complaining ladies. So there was ANOTHER table!

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On the short hike up to Kiltepan Peak to view the sunrise, the place was a-buzz with youngsters oozing with morning energy as compared to my “low-batt” state. As mentioned in my earlier blog, a lady fiscal went berserk so early in the morn. Confronting a driver who allegedly told her to move to the side of the dirt road, she went a-cussing and a-cursing. Not exactly the kind of language welcomed by early-risers out to enjoy a Kiltepan Sunrise.

Me: Who is that angry lady?
One Youngster: Tita (Aunt)….. Must be AMALAYER.
Me: Who?
Another Youngster: Not AMALAYER. Sounds like AMA-FISCAL.

Then, the sky brightened as the sun peeps out. There was thunderous applause, enough to drown out the monologue started by AMA-FISCAL..

Mood Changer: Laughter. That’s enough, no videotaping allowed. We laughed, we clapped, we enjoyed our Kiltepan Sunrise.

Crowd waiting for Kiltepan Sunrise

Tags: Mountain Province, Philippines, Sagada

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AMALAYER Nearly Ruined Our Kiltepan Sunrise

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 1 Comment

December 11, 2012

I’m a liar. AMALAYER. Of late, this has been a not so private joke among Filipinos especially those from the city traversed by MRT and LRT. The videotaped monologue from this young lady nearly screaming at the top of her lungs versus a lady guard caught the attention of not a few urbanites. Perhaps she woke up on the wrong side of the bed. Maybe she’s going through something. Definitely the guy who videotaped the scene shouldn’t have. Well, that’s my take on the matter. But that is not to condone all that verbal abuse. as what happened here in Kiltepan Peak.

Thank you Rex for this lovely photo!

Even Siri didn’t fail. Methinks. I can still feel the breeze.

After that backbreaking overnighter ride to Sagada and that very torturous (but rewarding) spelunking episode at SUMAGUING Cave on the very day of arrival, we pulled ourselves out of bed at 4:30 am to be up and ready for the Kiltepan Sunrise. Still sleepy on the van ride, we missed the bend, backed up and drove on dirt road all the way to where many vans and cars were already parked. We knew there was quite a crowd before us judging by the noise of early morning chatter as we sniffed the morning air.

The Crowd @Kiltepan Peak.

Pleasure in Tranquility!

But wait. It wasn’t just senseless morning chatter we were hearing. Someone was cursing and cussing. So early in the morning!

Foolish woman I am. Should have reminded myself to bend like the grass, to welcome whichever way the wind blows, to simply observe, perhaps with a grin that couldn’t be wiped off my face, to accept but without conforming. But I couldn’t help remarking (just to my companions) that early risers like us don’t deserve this eardrum-stinging “AMALAYER” language directed at one of the drivers from this lady fiscal. How can this lady even brag she’s a lady fiscal with the power to put her adversary behind bars? Tsk. Tsk. One couldn’t help eavesdropping. One and all were all hostages to this drama. The unwanted scenario quickened my pulse; blood surging through my face. Creating reddish splotches. Unbidden. Good thing it was still dark. I felt I’d rather put my head on the chopping block than listen to all the cussing.

Another lovely shot, Rex.

Why do i get a feeling some vampire lurks behind those pine trees? Photo Credits: Rex.

I wondered apprehensively and waited patiently for what’s to happen next. I have to commend the crowd of youngsters for restraining themselves, suffering like me throughout that offensive monologue. And then the sky slightly opened up. And the crowd cheered! The lady fiscal mercifully shut up. As the sun rises, the moon fades. Coffee mugs a-ready and we were all set for some peace and quiet. Finally. And beauty. Nature never fails.

Caught. By. Rex.

Shaky Hands. Moon Fading.

I sniffed as the drama ended. Looked behind me as I caught the last image of a fading moon. Before me, the sun threatened to brighten a day which didn’t start very well. I inched closer for a shot. No DLSR nor my trusted G12 with me. Just Siri, my iPhone cam.

The better shots displayed above were taken by my young friend Rex of Spaceman T-Rex. Thank you, Rex.

Mevlana Rumi: Come, come again, whoever you are, come!
Heathen, fire worshipper or idolatrous, come!
Come even if you broke your penitence a hundred times,
Ours is the portal of hope, come as you are.

Tags: AMALAYER, Kiltepan, Kiltepan Sunrise, Mountain Province, Philippines, Sagada

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THE CoLLECTIVE: Twisted, Hip & Artistic

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Food Trip — 7 Comments

December 8, 2012

When my “elves” asked me to take them to this place day after day, I knew they wouldn’t stop until I give in. Telling me to buy film from here for their Polaroid cam was a lame excuse. I knew there was more to this than a Polaroid film.

Non-descript Frontage of The Collective

Entrance through a narrow alley opened up to a spacious court hemmed in by walls painted with surreal art. The shops within this gym-like structure have the most brilliant titles or names. Certainly for the hip, unpretentious crowd. Thought-provoking… As with the art plastered on the walls.

Very artsy, don’t you think?

My “Elves” took turns having themselves photographed here.

There are a number of dining options here. Don’t be surprised to know the elves extracted a promise from me to head back for either late lunch or snacks here. They’re eyeing some of these curious eateries.

Art On Walls.

Will try out this place next time.

Quite honestly, I do like the place. Artsy, yes. Slightly twisted, yes. Irreverent, very. Yet there’s something about the place that makes you feel comfortable. The rock stools I found odd, yet ingenious. The painted walls and irreverent signs remind me of some Parisian scenes. The whole place is very Bohemian.

Very Hip, indeed.

Ingenuity. These rock stools may not be comfortable though, per one of the elves.

Though not exactly new, this is yet another hangout for the young and artistically-inclined. I’m neither. Yet I know I’d be back. With the elves. And then with the not-so-young to check out some of the food joints.

All reasonably priced, I assure you.

Check out the menu on the right!

Here you go. Menu of Kubyertos.

Friday and Saturday nights must be busy nights. I can imagine a rock band playing while foodies check out the tiny cramped food joints. So…. Is it a date?

Love this alley!

Tags: Dining in Makati, Makati, Makati Hangout, Malugay Street, The Collective

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SAGADA Blues: Backbreaking Rides, Hanging Coffins and Terraced Rice Paddies

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 5 Comments

December 6, 2012

It was a long, backbreaking, butt-busting ride. Half a day on the road with half of Manila packed in vans, cars, jeeps and buses weaving through the winding roads to Banaue and Sagada. Obviously, the long weekend lured many city people to check out the mountain air and remote villages in Mountain Province. The van we hired for our group of 7 pax was actually very comfortable. BUT, it was a very lonnnnnggg ride. Traffic along zigzag routes kept us glued to our seats, munching junk snacks whenever we wake up from brief naps.

Topload! (I wouldn’t dare…) Photo Credits: Peter

Love this photo of Manong and his wooden bike. Sagada 2012. (Peter, you do have an eye for great photos like this one!)

By the time we found this old man in his local “Igorot” costume with his wooden bike, we had the sun shining on us. As well on the Banaue Rice Terraces. Having tinkered with my camera on the long ride, I messed up and couldn’t put the cam to its original settings. Too much light, good only for zoomed-in and close up shots. What did I do? And we just got here! Thank God I was traveling with 2 photography nuts. Many of the shots here were taken by Peter and my niece Sarah. A few i took, using my iPhone cam. Thank you, Peter and Sarah. Thank you, Siri!

Banaue Rice Terraces. How about waking up from a long, butt-busting van ride to a vista such as this? Photo Credits: Peter

Lovely View of the Rice Terraces @ Banaue.

By the time we reached Sagada Homestay, we were all feeling like old men and old hags. Dropped our bags, napped for an hour or so, before checking out the hanging coffins and the “punishing” SUMAGUING Caves. Lunch was in Masferre’s while dinner was in this hip joint called Kimchi Cafe and Bar. A tiny eccentric place that easily transforms into a charming folk house as soon as the sun sets. This is where you find good, artistic use for bottle caps 🙂

Masferre’s for Lunch. But what we really wanted to do was lie down and sleep!

Dinner at Kimchi Cafe and Bar. Look at how they used bottle caps to decorate the place. Perfect with bottles of beer and music by Bob Marley!

After SUMAGUING Cave, I was completely wasted. Got out of the cave at 7pm and found my niece asking nearly everyone coming out if they’ve seen me with my guide James. Sarah has been here before and it was she who had so much faith I can do this spelunking expedition. She regrets now she didn’t catch on video the first words off my mouth as I climbed out of the cave :-0

The long, hot shower was very soothing. As I cleaned my feet and legs of mud, I realized why I kept slipping on the climb up. Too wasted to wash my own muddied clothes, I gave them away. No Internet, no TV as I didn’t need any prodding to hit the sack. As I closed my eyes, I must have fallen asleep just as my back touched the bed. I woke up at 2am just as my niece got in. I barely heard all the banter among tourists around a bonfire just outside the Homestay. I sensed the fun, the drunkenness, even the coquettish laughter from women speaking English with varied accents. It would have been fun to eavesdrop but my body and all my senses were longing to get back to sleep. SUMAGUING Cave does that to you.

Don’t I look LOST? Sumaguing Cave. Thank you Peter, for this shot.

Hanging Coffins. And we did ask. The natives used ladders to put and hang these wooden boxes bearing their dead. If you look closely, you’d find a skull and some bones on top of one of the boxes. Photo Credits: Peter

Knocked out good and completely re-energized for the Kiltepan sunrise, I even managed to make my coffee before stepping out of the Sagada Homestay. While some went for more “punishment” via the Bomod-ok Falls, others checked out the terraced rice paddies, more hanging coffins and rock gardens. You looking at me? You guessed right. No falls for me. Having stubbed my big toe inside the cave, I’m not doing any more trekking to explore natural waterfalls in Sagada.

NO, I’m not following the leader. Terraced rice paddies in Sagada.

Fresh mountain air. Great mountain view. Sagada.

Sagada. Mountain Province. Philippines.

Tags: Hanging Coffins, Kimchi Cafe Bar, Masferre, rice terraces, Sagada, Sagada Homestay

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ROCK & ROLL @SUMAGUING CAVE

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

December 5, 2012

Here’s one for the books. No, I wouldn’t call it spelunking. Not even caving per se. In my book, it’s pure and simple curiosity and blind courage that found me at the mouth of SUMAGUING Cave in Sagada one late afternoon and mindlessly saying “yes” to this adventure. After all, so many of my young blogger-friends have blogged about it. So, I was naturally curious. AND ….. adequately challenged. 😊

The Descent.

Directional Sign to Sumaguing Cave

I’ve been to many caves and had my fill of stalagmites and stalactites. You can say I didn’t have much by way of expectations. My only concern is to get out of it before nightfall as it was already 4pm when we began our descent. James, our guide, looked nonchalant seeing there’s a not-so-young adventurer in his group of 5 pax. I looked around and concluded I must be among the oldest, if not THE oldest, with the curious lot of caving enthusiasts that late afternoon.

Interior Shot. Traffic Inside the Sumaguing Cave! Sagada.

That headlamp was a brilliant (pun intended) idea!

The cave was packed with youngsters who shared the same not-so-brilliant idea with us to spend the long weekend in Sagada. The crowd meant long waits as the group of descending first-timers wait for a line making way to climb up and out of the cave. The extended waits made me rethink my intentions. And as I pondered, I knew this was more a challenge rather than a sightseeing adventure. One look at our guide James competently balancing a lamp between his thigh and left hand while offering his right hand to me, and I knew I just had to get this over and done with.

More Traffic Down Below, Inside the Sumaguing Cave.

Getting All Muddied Up Inside Sagada’s Sumaguing Cave

I was ready. With a headlight and gloves, I made my way down. The initial descent was over slippery rocks. I felt more confident when we did away with footwear, gripped our soles over rocks around pools of water, and slowly, carefully dipped our toes, then our entire legs in cold waters. All the while, I refrained from asking James how much further we should go let I lose heart. I knew the options were quite limited. James had to go with the group and should I choose not to continue, it’s either I go with another group climbing out or I wait for our team. Besides, I was actually growing confident myself, even excited!

No Way To Go But Barefoot Inside Sumaguing Cave

A Natural Beauty @ Sumaguing Cave

This rock cavern gave me a most memorable souvenir when I stubbed my big toe as I nearly slipped climbing up. It was nearly 7pm by the time we got out of the cave. But that was not really the exciting part. Nor was climbing up a rope. From the cave bottom, our guide James positioned himself in a way where he can actually pull us up with one hand through huge rocks a la Jackie Chan. I grabbed his hand, made big strides up and over the rocks but couldn’t pull myself over! Knowing James couldn’t hold my full weight, I didn’t waste more seconds. One hand held by James, I straddled my left leg over the rock and……… ROLLED! Oh yes, even James wasn’t sure what I was doing! But….. I made it.

Yee Haw! I made it!

Now, Where’s the rest of my group? (Lost Inside Sumaguing Cave)

ROCK AND ROLL, indeed! Surely, that made my day. Aching calf, thigh muscles and sore shoulders, the pain remained long after my uber-dirty, muddied clothes were washed and dried. Oh my, what was I thinking then???

Close Up Shot. Inside Sumaguing Cave.

Cold waters inside the Sumaging Cave

Cold. Slippery. At times, Slimy.

Tags: Mountain Province, Philippines, Sagada, Spelunking, SUMAGUING Cave

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The Old (And Dead) Rich of La Loma

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels — 8 Comments

November 29, 2012

When one speaks of La Loma, 2 things easily come to mind. LECHON. And the old cemetery.

I joined a guided tour organized by the Museum Foundation of the Philippines with no less than Architect Manuel Noche guiding us through the flamboyant architecture and interesting history of this urban cemetery.

Little Monuments in the Old La Loma Cemetery

The great divide between rich and poor is very evident here. In death, as in life, the rich enjoy the prominence, the grandeur, the prime slots. One “street” in this city of the dead counts a number of mausoleums big enough to house several of the squatter-families of Manila. Prominent family names adorn the fronts of many of these flamboyantly designed mausoleums for the rich and famous. It’s like a “who’s who of Philippine High Society”.

No. It isn’t a church. It’s a Mausoleum.

Another Mausoleum for the Barredo Family. La Loma Cemetery. Quezon City.

A big pseudo-baroque chapel dedicated to Saint Pancratius within the cemetery which served as its funerary chapel from 1884 to 1962 is now fondly called “Lumang Simbahan” (literally translated “Old Church”). Rich and famous dead lying side by side in their private, marbled resting havens – – truly a city for the dead spanning 54 hectares of land in this former capital (Quezon City) of the Philippines. Spared from the ravages of war where much of Manila was bombed out during the 1945 Battle of Manila, but not spared from serving as execution site during the Japanese occupation. Just the same, Campo Santo de La Loma is a significant link to Philippine history and architecture. After all, this 2nd oldest cemetery (1884)counts among its buried citizens the important icons of history, the old rich and famous, religious leaders and the simply famous. And yes, you read that right. 1884. Second oldest public cemetery, according to Architect Noche. Paco Cemetery spanning only 4 hectares IS the oldest (1822).

Lumang Simbahan or Chapel of Saint Pancratius within the grounds of La Loma Cemetery. Served as funerary chapel from 1884 to 1962.

Details of the funerary chapel which has been abandoned and closed since 1962. Except for the sign “Epistula”, we found no other marker to explain its history.

Despite the heat, we trudged on dripping with enthusiasm and sweating with history lessons from our architect tour guide. If it were any cooler, i dare say these photos may remind one of the old cemetery tours done in Paris, Buenos Aires, and New Orleans.

This is NOT an ordinary street. It cuts across the La Loma Cemetery, lined on both sides by old mausoleums belonging to prominent and old elitist families in the Philippines.

Quite a sight. Who would have thought this is in the Philippines? Or that there’s 54 hectares of cemetery property within the Metropolis?

All of 54 hectares within the metropolis. You’d think one should find better use for this land in this time and age. But it is an important piece of our history. I’m sure the hoi polloi would be interested to read up on the history of some of the prominent families interred here. Them are some of the aristocratic families of old. The illustrados. The hacienderos. Viejo familias. Their names ring familiar as many industries, companies, schools, even streets are named after them.

Must be an old tree growing out of a Mausoleum.

I can only imagine Dona Victorinas coming to light candles and offer flowers in many of these Mausoleums. 😉

As we moved from mausoleum to mausoleum, from one gravesite to the next, we can’t help wonder how squatter-families live here. As we stood in awe viewing the grandeur of some architectural designs and sculptures, we also didn’t miss the empty gravesites where little children play nearby and where laundry hangs from a rope loosely hung between 2 trees. Mixed emotions here. I feel for these impoverished families, yet I lament that this “open air museum” seems to have been taken over by illegal occupants. I really hope our government finds a suitable relocation site where these families can resettle.

This one looks rather NEW. All of 3 storeys high. Looks a bit tacky to me.

There were many interesting statues and monuments. Architect Manuel Noche said he brings his architectural class to these cemeteries every now and then to study art and architecture. Well, history too.

I know there are some who go visit on their own, but guided tours are best if one wants to appreciate the place’s historical and architectural significance. You may google all you want but you may miss out on some historical tidbits. Besides, it’s good to visit as a big group. It’s more fun!

Another Mausoleum for the Rich and Famous.

……….while others are interred in another part of the cemetery.

Tags: Cemeteries, La Loma, Mausoleums, Philippines, Quezon City, Urban Cemeteries

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Taal Volcano From The Lakeshore and From The Ridge

Filed under: Philippine Travels — 7 Comments

November 22, 2012

“And if travel is like love…it is mostly because it’s a heightened state of awareness, in which we are mindful, receptive, undimmed by familiarity and ready to be transformed. That is why the best trips, like the best love affairs, never really end.” ~ Pico Iyer

As I’ve earlier blogged, I never grow tired of Tagaytay. Neither of Taal Volcano. Whether it’s viewed from the lakeshore in Talisay, Batangas or from the Tagaytay Ridge. With guests, we drove south from Manila at exactly 8am and back by 1pm. Just a short 5 hour day trip to view the world’s smallest active volcano.

The lakeshore scene from Club Balai Isabel included men fishing out seaweed from the waters by the shore. And then plunking them back down somewhere farther. Don’t ask me why. But it made for a lovely morning vista for city people like us. The men were still there even while we had a simple lunch of bulanglang soup and club sandwiches at the Club’s Terraza Cafe.

It’s always good being back here. I so love the place here I’m longing to spend a long weekend with my family here again. Yes, again. And again.

Soon after lunch, we negotiated the 9 kilometer uphill drive towards Tagaytay City. This time, we entered the Taal Vista Lodge for the view of the same volcano from the ridge. Hard to imagine this ridge used to be part of the volcano which collapsed in a major eruption centuries ago. By this time, so much has changed in Tagaytay. I long for the rustic feel which is fast fading — what with all the high rise structures under construction.

So, let’s hope the local authorities in Talisay, Batangas and Tagaytay City remember to preserve the charm of these small city and town. I’d be terribly saddened to see these places ruined as they are being “built up”. Taal Volcano may look the same, but the “old charm” adds to the ambiance, the romance of viewing this small monster from the lakeside and from the ridge.

Tags: club balai isabel, Taal Lake, Taal Volcano, Tagaytay City, Tagaytay Ridge

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WAIT TILL THE SHOE LADY DIES……

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 4 Comments

November 20, 2012

I know. I know. Sounds morbid. Even cruel. But can’t help thinking THAT while walking the “streets” within the hallowed grounds of La Loma, North and Chinese Cemeteries in Manila.

The architect/tour guide mentioned how Evita Peron’s grave in Recoleta Cemetery draws in millions of tourists and yield tourism moolah for Argentina. Yes, Evita of that Broadway musical fame. The same lovely lady who married Juan Peron just a year before Juan became President of Argentina. The same lady who tried to run as Vice President of the same South American nation.

Evita. Don’t you feel like breaking out to sing “Don’t Cry For Me, Argentina”? That musical has forever etched this Argentinian First Lady into our minds and pop culture. Many believe she’s the inspiration for a local ex-First Lady who similarly held political posts while the husband was President. The latter has inspired many comedy acts and invariably, the plays emphasized her flamboyant lifestyle and alleged “obsession” with shoes. Given the flamboyance displayed in these urban cemeteries, the architect/tour guide is spot on when he quipped “Wait till xxxxx dies……”.

Some of those mausoleums are even bigger than village churches I’ve been to. Really, in death as in life….. the disparity between rich and poor is very evident. The affluent within high society made sure their family names are immortalized in the “city of the dead”. Spanning many hectares of land, I am amazed to find how vast these cemetery parks are. I visited 3 in a day. La Loma, North and Chinese Cemeteries. Each deserving to have their stories told.

Even now, these cemeteries are drawing in tourists. It is just lamentable that the authorities are unable to deal with the squatting problem. If you ask me, these squatters have grown out of control. The very reason why I didn’t have the courage to “tour” on my own. I joined a tour organized by the Museum Foundation of the Philippines and was only too happy to have the brilliant Architect Manuel Noche and the hilarious, ever-energetic Ivan Man Dy walk us through history as we walked around the mounds and mausoleums, some of which are as high as 3 storeys.

Watch this page for sequels!

Tags: Imelda, Imelda Marcos, La Loma, Manila Cemeteries, North Cemetery, Shoe Lady

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COFFEE & SAINTS: Our Daily Meals

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Food Trip — 4 Comments

November 8, 2012

Coffee & Saints is a coffee shop run by the Don Bosco PUGAD, a project for migrant youth from all over the country. Other projects include bread making and water filtering stations where young men aged 17-21 gain technical skills and self-worth.

You’d find the coffee shop right beside the Don Bosco Church and within the church compound and parking lot. In my earlier blog, I wrote about a few of its simple menu offerings. Today, the tiny coffee shop now offers home-cooked meals at very affordable prices. Check out these daily offerings through the photos below.

Remember how we used to troop to Amicí just outside the church compound after hearing mass? At the time, it was just a simple “carinderia” with great pasta offerings and many gelato flavors. Well, Coffee & Saints is no trattoria and no, they only offer Pinoy everyday meals. But from the “Silog” series come these comfort food at prices well within one’s budget. Who says you can’t enjoy home-cooked comfort food while staying frugal? Plus the tiny dining place is tidy, packed with ambience, and manned by eager to please migrant youth.

And if you’re still stuck with Coffee & Saints’ original “Silog series”, they’re still available. EVERYDAY. Same with their desserts, except that some of the “Kakanin” are available only at certain hours of the day. Me? I promise to try a new dish every visit along with my “standard daing na bangus”. And if you don’t care for their desserts, ask for the Pugad cookies priced at P20 each. There are cookies flavored with malunggay or ashitaba leaves. The same leaves you’d find in your ginisang mongo and dinuguan dishes.

And oh, don’t forget to try their Barako coffee or the chocolate batirol. The Pugad boys will cheerfully serve them while you’re waiting for your orders. Bless these boys. God bless you too for patronizing this place!