Category: Travel, travels



I like the vibe here. More than anywhere else. It has the “truly African” feel to it. Or perhaps, I should say “Truly Zambian”.

 

 

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Just a few meters away is the edge of the cliff. Have your Eggs Benedict breakfast here while “listening” to the smoke that thunders. Victoria Falls!

 

 

Breakfast right by the “smoke that thunders”. What beats that? I’d readily give up my oyster and champagne breakfast for this experience. Yes, it is more than just breakfast. It’s quite an experience to munch through your Eggs Benedict while listening to the gushing waters from the falls and feeling that “spray” of water as the wind blows your way.

 

 

 

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Thank you, Chikie, for this photo. I really hammed it up, didn’t I?

 

 

To think I was already so pleased with Zambezi Sun’s buffet breakfast. And my premier breakfast spot right by the pool, which Ngandan secures for me every morning! Can’t complain about this Zambian leg of my African journey. Everything worked out perfect here. It’s in the stars!

 

 

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Royal Breakfasts indeed! A local, Ngandan, secured this spot for me each morning.

 

 

From our hotel, it’s only 2 kilometers trailing a path to view the Falls from different angles. Make that 4 kilometers for a return trip. The sun is out but the path is slippery owing to the water spray from the waterfalls. I’ve read about this tourist who slipped and fell from the edge (yes, he died) when a baboon sprung from nowhere to snatch his bag. So let me just say I took great care scaling those steps, crossing the wet bridge, watching out for baboons and yes, snapping way too many photos.

 

 

 

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An aerial shot of the Falls with the Zambezi Sun Hotel on the lower left. From this spot, we hiked towards the steel bridge where we had a better viewing of the Falls and the Livingstone Bridge. Had a good “spray” too!

 

 

You can only take so many photos of the SAME Victoria Falls. From a helicopter, from the edge, from the bridge, from the many viewing spots. Lighting differs quite a bit, and the mist from the Falls can make or break a shot. After a while, you stop. Wiping my camera lens, I can only feel gratitude in my heart for all these natural wonders. The Falls. A rainbow here and there. Standing on a spot of land in Zambia, while looking out to the other tourists standing on a spot of land in Zimbabwe just across the Falls. Or looking down to the Zambezi River where some dare white-water raft or swim at Boiling Point. Such beauty. And I was there!

 

 

 

 

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Photo Credits: Chikie. (That’s me up front, busy snapping photos while getting slightly wet from the water spray)

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That’s the hiking trail. Just 4 kilometers return trip. And look at that rainbow!

 

 

Oh, by the way, there are some others who’d rather view the Falls while jumping off Livingstone Bridge which connects Zambia to Zimbabwe. If you care for a jump, just remember that a young woman once bungee-jumped and the rope snapped and she plunged straight into the waters. She had the presence of mind to swim under the currents to pull her feet off the rope then swim up to the nearest rock to wait for rescue. Now, what are the chances you can do a repeat of that? Best of luck, chap!

 

 

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You can only take so many photos of the same Falls.

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SEE THAT BUNGEE-JUMPER? IT’S THAT TINY RED DOT BELOW THE LIVINGSTONE BRIDGE WHICH CONNECTS ZAMBIA TO ZIMBABWE.

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THE LIVINGSTONE BRIDGE. AND THE ZAMBEZI RIVER BELOW. SOMEWHERE THERE IS THE “BOILING POINT”.


We took the 90 minute flight from Johannesburg and landed in the Livingstone International Airport. Frankly, one can hardly call it that. It’s a very small airport, manned by a minimum of airport crew who looked like a cast from some ongoing movie shoot. For a while, I suspected the X-ray machine would damage my camera and iPad. Don’t ask me why. The thought crossed my mind. Though I never expressed my fears.

 

 

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This is Africa!

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ZAMBIA

 

This is hardcore Africa. From the time we stepped out of the airport, fetched by a hotel van driving past dusty Livingstone with locals in colorful outfits, I sensed AFRICA. Soon enough, we were in our hotel touted as the nearest hotel to the majestic Victoria Falls. Not exactly in the same rank as its sister-hotel — the Royal Livingstone Hotel — but I like its ambience. Less colonial in architecture. Definitely more African.

 

 

 

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Honestly….I passed only 2 roads in Livingstone, Zambia. And yes, those are the blue taxis of Zambia!

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Not that old. But this is typical in the whole of Livingstone’s “CBD”.

 

The stark contrast between this small dusty town’s character and the grandness of the hotels by the Falls couldn’t be more pronounced. Zambezi Sun Hotel is a beautiful hotel with a very African theme. It is also a nature reserve where giraffes, baboons, crocodiles and zebras freely roam the grounds. It was tempting to leave some nuts just outside our room’s sliding doors. Or by the swinging bench by the river where a sign “Beware of Crocodiles” promptly got me off the bench to retreat back to my air conditioned room.

 

 

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This is my breakfast view during my stay in Zambezi Sun Hotel.

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Pleasantly surprised to find superb food quality and service here in Zambia. My favorite serving lady is named Nganda.

 

 

Once, the hotel van we were riding had to stop to let this towering giraffe pass. Another time, we got all excited when a good looking zebra roamed around the hotel front, unmindful of hotel guests snapping photos and following him around. My, we don’t even have to go to a wildlife park to see these safari animals. They’re everywhere. Sitting by the pool with a Mosi beer and a plateful of fries, I waited to check the rates for a foot massage by the pool. (Forget it. It’s way too much) From the corner of my eye, I saw a monkey and a tiny animal I couldn’t make out snooping from behind a tree. Not sure if they like French Fries or a beer, but really, I didn’t need company then. 😄

 

 

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Zebra right by the hotel entrance!

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Taken while inside the hotel van. The van stopped to let this regal safari animal pass. Giraffes in Zambezi Sun Hotel!

 

A bit of trivia: You can tell an alligator from a crocodile judging by the shape of their snouts. crocs have narrower, V shaped snouts while alligators have wider U shaped snouts. Alligators are also generally darker, almost black in color. As for the Lacoste reptile, it’s meant to be a crocodile. A green crocodile. Only in Lacoste. 😊

 

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Typical buildings in Livingstone’s CBD.

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And yes, this is a Catholic Church in Livingstone, Zambia.

 

 

Ah, I’ve been wrong so many times but I was never this sooooo wrong about one country. As we left Livingstone, Zambia I took one last look at the Saint Theresa Church along the Airport Road. Frankly? I didn’t expect to find Catholics in Zambia. It seems I was simply too engrossed over the country’s natural wonders that I was an epic failure in the other departments. To find almost every Zambian speaking fluent English came as a total surprise. And don’t tell me I should have known this country was once under British rule. There were many other ex-British colony countries I’ve visited where language was a problem. Not here. I totally enjoyed talking to the locals. Zambians are among the friendliest I’ve met. They can be quite chatty too. How delightful to find new friends!

 

 

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LOO WITH A VIEW? We found this tented toiled just a few meters from the cliff edge by the Victoria Falls.

“To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries.” – Aldous Huxley (1894-1963)

 

SUNSETS IN ZAMBIA


How many sunset shots before you give your camera a rest? How many Mosi beers or red wines or cocktail drinks while cruising along the Zambezi River before you call it a day? How many beast surprises – an elephant here, a croc there, a hippo by the riverbank – before you realize THIS IS AFRICA!

 

 

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Sunset While Cruising the Zambezi River

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Cruising Till Sundown

 

 

Here in Zambia, Lady Luck was with me all the way. The 25-minute helicopter flight, the Livingstone Island Visit, the African Queen Sunset Cruise. I’ve seen more elephants and hippos here than in all my zoo visits combined in my lifetime! Like I hardly remember how I felt when I saw that lone elephant while on a boat to Livingstone Island. We spotted more on our heliflight as the copter flew over an island with as many as 7 elephants there! Like I could hardly contain my enthusiasm over the nearly guaranteed viewing of hippos while doing the Sunset Cruise. They were not few. One too many, with one managing to draw oooohhhhs  and aaaaahhhs from the cruise passengers as he opened his mouth as in a big yawn.

 

 

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Ever wondered why elephants flap their ears?

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Hippos Are Main Attractions Too.

 

 

All that excitement……. helped along by an “OPEN BAR” and a very friendly English-speaking crew. I started and ended with red wine. Tempting to try Mosi Beer. Truly Zambian, but that can wait another day. Every now and then, I’d carry my glass from the bar to the deck. Who ever grows tired of sunsets?

 

 

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This is the little “sister” of the African Queen Sunset Cruise.

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The crew of friendly sailors were all so friendly on the whole 2 hour cruise.

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Who ever grows tired of sunsets?

 

A bit of trivia here: Elephants flap their ears to cool themselves as when it’s hot or when it’s upset. When you see one, don’t bother guessing if it’s feeling warm or upset. Best is to simply stay away.

 

Cheers, everyone! GESONDHEID!

 

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Truly Zambian!


The view takes your breath away. And that’s not an overstatement!

 

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Oh, that lonely bench again! I see it everywhere. With a promise of a perfect view!

 

Knysna Heads. Imagine pre-steam ships going through that gap sailing into the lagoon. I can sit here all afternoon till sundown just staring into those breakers, watching the tides flow without breaking a stride to spill out into the vast Indian Ocean. Truly, an impressive view especially when the tides lift and flow over the rocks and sandbars.

 

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Walking Towards the Rocks and the Lighthouse

 

The scenery before we stopped to appreciate this lagoon view somehow prepared us. My, this is really prime property with this premier view! The rocks, the tides, the lighthouse. Sitting on that bench with a cup of good brew or a flute of champagne should complete the deal. And don’t tell me it’s too early for my bubbles!

 

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The Lighthouse

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Framed by the Bus Window. So Lovely On This Wintry Day!

 

So, what did we miss? This foodie missed something big time. We passed it on our way to the lighthouse. Didn’t give it much attention as we were eager to see the views from the rocks. Read about it. But it didn’t stick. Aaahhhh….. This old hag must be losing it.

 

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I want to cry. Waaaaahhhhh!

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And we just passed it without giving a hoot! Waaaaahhhhhh.

 

And it’s just not the view. Breakfast all day in this cafe. Good coffee and wine selection. No pretensions. Just good home-cooked comfort food. EASTHEAD CAFE. Yay! Knysna truly surprises. The lagoon, the waterfront, the quays, the lighthouse, the quaint cafés and bistros. I can live here!

 

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The Coffee Connection in Old Knysna

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Lemon Meringue Pie and a Frothy Coffee @Coffee Connection

 

You lose some. You win some. In the “Old Knysna” I didn’t miss checking out Coffee Connection. This social hub has the best lemon meringue pie I ever tasted. Climbing up the stairs to go to the loo, I noticed how quaint the staircase, flooring and restrooms are. As it turned out, this 20-year old coffee hub is housed in an 18th century building which has since become a landmark in the “Old Knysna”. Nice. I got my frothy coffee, the best pie and the old charm of an 18th century landmark edifice. Swell.

 

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SAY THAT AGAIN!

 

 

Easthead Cafe just had to wait for my next visit! Maybe I can spend more time here in Knysna. Charming place. Good food. My neighborhood!


Nearly a half hour’s drive from the principal town of Oudtshoorn lies the limestone mountains of the Klein Karoo. The Cango Caves claim to have one of the biggest stalagmite formations in the world. Now, I’m not a big fan of caves and stalagmites or stalactites, but thought the supervised tour would be a good opportunity to spend a “productive” hour or so.

 

 

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This is the “atrium”. Looks like a hall waiting for a concert to commence!

 

 

The caverns and tunnels opened up to “atriums” like the photo above. Like there’s a big hall ready for a concert. The stalagmite formations are very impressive. I had to deliberately stop snapping photos after convincing myself that one can only have so many photos of these natural wonders.

 

 

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Dripstone caverns. Cango Caves claim to have the largest stalagmite formations in the whole world.

 

 

An adventure tour is available where one can view more drip stone caverns while fumbling on all fours. Not for me. As we walked through the tunnels and passageways, I was peeling off layers of shirts I earlier put on as the cave temp rose. Besides, I was quite content to see and photograph “Cleopatra’s Needle”. All of 9 meters and “only” 150,000 years old. Easily, it’s the main attraction inside the Cango Caves.

 

 

 

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The many drip stone formations which took millions of years to form are breathtaking. And that’s coming from someone who doesn’t dig caves and stalagmites/stalactites. Amazing how these caverns can exist beneath these limestone mountains! As we were leaving, I reviewed some interior shots and found this. I couldn’t make heads or tails off the last photo. Can you?

 

 

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BOO!


You don’t go to Africa to visit a zoo, right? But then again, you may not get so lucky with your safari drives so…… consider this a “preview” of what’s good to see. This is Cango Wildlife Ranch just outside Oudtshoorn, the principal town of the Little Karoo.

 

 

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Cango Wildlife Ranch in the outskirts of Oudtshoorn. South Africa

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The leopard we missed in the safari.

 

 

As it turned out, we missed 1 out of the Big 5. The LEOPARD was very elusive. We saw the lions, cape buffaloes, elephants and the rhinos. Four out of 5 ain’t bad for a first safari adventure. More so if one has seen more antelopes that one can name, plus the cheetahs, hippos, baboons, wildebeest, warthogs, crocs (or were they alligators?) and many bird species.

 

 

 

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Simba’s Dad?

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In the animal kingdom, I’ve got to admit the male lion with his lovely mane is so much lovelier than the lioness.

 

 

It was a cold, rainy day when we reached the Wildlife Ranch. Protected by disposable raincoats, we passed the hanging bridge and boardwalks to view the many animals, crocs and birds. I was reminded of “Residence Inn” in Tagaytay, only better. At least the lions, tigers and leopards freely roam around a rather limited but adequate space rather than put in cages too small to drive them crazy over time.

 

 

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The wildlife ranch (zoo to many) is well-kept, clean and nearly odorless. And the guides are very very good.

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No tigers in Africa. But there’s one here in Cango Wildlife Ranch.

 

 

Some visitors came for photo ops with the beasts. There was a man looking a tad tentative for his pictorial with a cheetah. The beast must be fed well to be so unmindful of visitors and obedient to its trainers or zookeepers. We had a very playful guide touring us around. Twice, on a bend, she hid to surprise me with a tap on my shoulder or a “bite” on my leg. Each time, it earned a mild scream from moí. She was good!

 

 

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Cold and rainy day.

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To this day, I wonder what he’d do if that cheetah so much as roared.

 

 

Small and manageable, the ranch must be a hit with children too young for safaris. The flamingos, bats, vultures and other birds look happy residents. The ranch is well kept, clean and nearly odorless. The visit is best combined with a visit to the Cango caves some distance from the town, if you have time to spare. But don’t forget to leave some time for wine tasting in this wine region. There are a number of wine estates here with superb dining outlets. Now, wouldn’t that complete your day!

 

 

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Now, that’s a real vulture!

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Friends who know me know that I don’t have much interest in shopping. I do not begrudge those who do, but I’m always armed with a good book (or even a map!) to while away the time while my buddies do the shopping. A good brew or a glass of syrah helps too. My family would always spot a good corner in some cafe or bar where they’d deposit me while they shop.

 

 

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The Exotic Pates of Africa: Crocodile Meat, Impala, Ostrich, Springbok, Kudu Pate.

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Rooibos Tea. No caffeine. Really!

 

 

But I’m a sucker for food items. And if they come in small packages, I’d surely knock them off the shelves. Out of Africa and Taste of Africa offered such African delicacies that I couldn’t resist snatching up bags of the caffein-free rooibos tea. Good and healthy. And how about the pâtés from such exotic meats like crocodile, impala, kudu, springbok and ostrich? Yeah, quite a find! These I most certainly need to bring home.

 

 

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Chair Made With Ostrich Leather!

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Benches Made with Ostrich Leather. Love the Blue Color!

 

 

Small parcels like those pâtés and local teas are fine. But how about the ostrich leather chair and benches from Berluda? I want those! I probably should have purchased one of those ostrich leather bags or purses instead. But retired that I am, I would likely spend more time on that chair than carry a bag to wherever. And so I left without any ostrich souvenir. 😂

 

 

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PLEASE> No more biltongs.

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Love the colors!

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Knysna Quay is a treasure trove of curio shops and coffee bars!

 

 

In Knysna Quays, we did some craft shopping. There are nice beadwork to be found here. Matching African neckwear and bracelets. Got a couple of those. In the Elephant Park, there are more souvenir items like magnets, keychains and headwear. If you’re into safari vests and jackets, you’d find some with the words “Cango Wild Ranch” or “Knysna Elephant Park” emblazoned on the chest.

 

 

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The Knysna Elephant Park Sun Visor (Thanks Beth!)

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Refrigerator Magnets, and other souvenirs.

 

 

In Hout Bay before our boat ride to the Seals Island, there were street vendors with local handicraft for sale. Bulky souvenirs I call ’em. I’d stick to my small parcels of table delights!

 

 

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Craft finds in Hout Bay

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Wooden Bowls from Hout Bay


Ebony and Ivory. Black and White. Remember the Beatles song composed by Paul McCartney? Named “Song of the Century” this song assumes more relevance as South Africa struggled out of apartheid to give more meaning to the song’s message of whites and blacks living in harmony.

 

 

From Cape Town through Barrydale and Oudtshoorn to Knysna with sleepovers along the way in the lovely landscape, seascape and flynbo gardens of South Africa. I wanted to see them elephants in the wilds. So, why here in Knysna Elephant Park?

 

 

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We hold hands. They hold trunks. Sweet!

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Remember Paul McCartney’s Ebony and Ivory?

 

 

Well, these are abandoned elephants now cared for in a controlled but free-range environment just outside the lovely town of Knysna. For a few rands, you can buy buckets of apples and oranges to feed the elephants. Amazing how these young mahouts trained these animals to stand behind a metal bar, waiting to be fed, every time a tractor “van” unloads park visitors. My only regret is that the baby elephants are blocked out by the bigger ones come feeding time. Once I tried feeding the baby who was reaching out with his trunk to pick up an orange, only to be loudly and angrily shooed off by the adult elephant. The not so little one scampered off. Hungry. Poor baby. 😒🐘

 

 

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Ready with our buckets full of apples and oranges!

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Here, Baby. Mommy has a bucketful of oranges for you! Sssshhhh….

 

 

I’m sure it’s an altogether different experience seeing them in a wildlife park. But the vastness of this park assumes a natural habitat where they graze freely, even if their residents are a little spoiled and “bucket-fed” by park visitors. Since you can’t get up close to one in the wilds without risking being trampled upon by these beasts, this experience is good for first-timers like us. Interestingly, many safari accidents involved elephants more than lions, leopards or some other fierce animals. Just remember that an elephant’s foot, measured in circumference, multiplied by 2.5 approximates its height. So, if you’re following some elephant tracks in the wilds, you’d have an estimation of this animal’s size.

 

 

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Mommy Elephant or Daddy Elephant? (AT KNYSNA ELEPHANT PARK)

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More park visitors off the tractor van. More food!

 

 

Feeding the elephants should be an exciting experience for kids. If I was thrilled getting an elephant’s trunk hover and snatch up the orange on my palm, what kid won’t? Yet for all its size, I am amazed how gently and quietly these big animals move. A big one can sneak right behind you and snatch that apple or orange before you’re ready! One actually nudged one of the ladies, nearly pushing her back with the elephant’s trunk. Naughty elephant! so remember NEVER to turn your back on an elephant. 🐘🐘🐘

 

 

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One of the lady visitors got a nudge on the back. Naughty elephant!

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My Sweet Caroline! (At Knysna Elephant Park. South Africa)

 

 

Gentle giants. That’s what they are. Moody, maybe. But they have such a sweet, endearing nature. Men as predators of these gentle creatures make me sick. Those beautiful tusks are their curse. Many of the elephants in Knysna Park were orphaned when poachers killed their parents to retrieve those prized ivory tusks. Knysna provided a sanctuary for them. One can only wish time will come when these animals are spared from poaching and allowed to live in the wilds without the threat of extinction.

 

 

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They’re moody. They’re sentimental. They’re sweet. Orphaned elephants in this sanctuary in Knysna are cared for with tons of love and affection.

 

 

TRIVIA: Male elephants are called bulls. Females are cows. And the baby elephants are calves. Just like cattle. When you see a herd of elephants, it’s likely the adult elephants are cow elephants. All female. Why? The bull elephants stay with the herd only till the young reach puberty. Then they’re on their own, coming back only for mating purposes. Those bastards! (Excuse my French)


I was looking forward to visiting Simonstown not only to check out the Jackass Penguins in Boulders Beach but likewise to visit Jubilee Square. Ever heard the story of “Just Nuisance”? That’s the name of the Great Dane who “served” in the Royal Navy back in the 1940s.

 

 

Errrr, do I have your attention now? The story certainly got my attention. You see, Just Nuisance is one very popular and well-loved dog who has become part of the town’s history. Story goes that sailors in the town’s naval station regularly fed this Great Dane who has acquired a taste for fries, beer and other drinkers’ crumbs. When these sailors went for R & R in Capetown, the spoiled canine would follow them, hopping on trains even. For sure, this dog felt he “belonged” to the Royal Navy and counted many sailor friends. So loved was he that a bronze statue in Jubilee Square was made in his honor.

 

 

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Penguin Colony at Boulders Beach. Simonstown. South Africa.

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Jackass Penguins or African Penguins? (Photo Credits to E. Ong)

The Penguins. Not The Dog.

 

But wait. We’re talking about the Penguins here. These tuxedo-ed residents of Boulders Beach have been here for a while. There was an entire colony of these African Penguins just a few meters from Seaforth Restaurant where we had lunch. An entire colony! There they were going about their business, unmindful of us camwhoring tourists. There were signs warning visitors from feeding nor touching them. Good thing they built a boardwalk where we can actually “follow” them, watch them, photograph them, observe them. These look like “happy birds” not “angry birds” who wouldn’t hesitate to interact with humans swimming in the nearby waters. We found some nesting, with those cute-sy “holes” in the sandy beach. Others busily playing by the shore. I can imagine them rolling on beach towels laid out by beach swimmers on some summer days. Happy Feet!

 

 

 

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Penguins Having A Party! (Photo Credits: E. Ong)

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Play Time for these African Penguins!

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African Penguins in Boulders Beach. Some on the boulders. Others a-swimming!

 

 

Check out this video of these charming birds. Just a glimpse of Happy Feet in this penguin colony.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EBpz4gZpuvM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

 

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That’s the Boardwalk around the Penguin Colony in Boulders Beach

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I wonder what these 2 Jackass Penguins Are Saying To Each Other


Leaving Capetown is an ordeal. It’s heartbreaking to leave a place as lovely and postcard-pretty as Capetown. The sea and mountain sceneries are in perfect harmony here. Whether you are facing the Atlantic or the Indian Ocean, you will be dazzled by these magnificent backgrounds. The coves, where sailboats blow across the waters like toys, pulled by their colorful sails, can render the romantically-challenged quite desperate. Ahem. I can’t count the number of times I listened to the surf of the ocean and heaved a deep sigh in this lovely South African city.

 

 

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There is much to do in Cape Town. Like revisiting all those places we’ve seen. Its charm drives you to do that.

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The sound of the Ocean lulls one to an almost melancholy state. The surge and the spray just in time to wake you from that mindless state.

 

 

Off to the farm, the caves, the ranch we go. But first, some serious business. LUNCH. And what perfect pitstop. The R62 Deli in Joubert-Tradauw Wine Estate makes your day. Place is so intimate it makes you feel like you dropped in on your best friend’s for some home-cooked meal. As with many perfect meals, lunch here is simply made with the simplest, freshest ingredients. It leaves just enough room for everyone to indulge in their wines, be it rosé, Sauvignon or shyrah.

 

 

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I almost grew tired spotting and snapping shots of the rainbow.

The resident mascot of Joubert Tradauw Wine Estate’s R62 Deli

 

 

The bean soup reminded me of my best Hungarian goulash somewhere in Eastern Europe, and the salads couldn’t be more Mediterranean. I can stop there, maybe even skip the dessert (a rare occasion) and linger around the wine estate on this pleasantly cool day. The very playful dog (Jacquie?) made everyone feel at home. I bet he’d tag along for a stroll. We also sneaked in and checked the small kitchen where more bean soups stewed, fresh arugulas and fruits ready to compose a salad, a chocolate cake freshly-baked and ready to be sliced.

 

 

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Freshly-harvested greens and fruits. Straight from the farm. And their wines go well with the Klein Karoo tapas.

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I want to remember every detail through an old sepia-colored filter. Call me romantic. Or romantically-challenged? But this tiny place is oozing with charm that even an ordinary brew of coffee would likely taste better.  But wait, hand me that French Chocolate Cake! 

 

 

French Chocolate Cake!

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At the end of this dining area is the small Mediterranean-style farm kitchen which is open for everyone to step in to check what’s cooking!

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I can drink gallons of coffee or tea here.