The first 20 kilometers or so was a gruelling uphill climb. Up until the Refugio Orisson, and further up to La Vierge (12 kms) where we arranged to be picked up by our mountain shuttle service. Further up is the Cross Thibault. I have great respect for those who hiked the entire 25 (or 27.5?) kms from SJPP to Roncesvalles in a single day. Man, that was hard! We broke the stage over 2 days and it still was challenging. For some, 25 or 27.5 kilometers may not seem so daunting. I’ve walked far longer in earlier Caminos but gaining over 1,300 meters elevation spells a major difference! The last time I did this was in 2017 but I took the Valcarlos route because Orisson was all mist and the center closed the route for the pilgrims. This time, I wanted to do the Napoleon Route which passes Orisson and Borda. The claim that this stretch is the most difficult because of the ascent is very true. Can’t disagree with that. It helped that the Pyrenees is simply so lovely and the mountain scenery in all its misty beauty distracted us from the rhythm of painful strides as muscles here and there ached. Beautiful meadows and farms and looking back, breathtaking vistas of the valley. Plus the wildlife, counting sheep, wild horses and cattle with mountain bells strung around their necks. I only started worrying when we strayed off the mountain roads and walked on cliffside rocky inclines. Too careful I’d step on and dislodge some stones or slip over some rolling rocks, my cliffside glimpses somewhat affected my sense of balance. And confidence. But we made it. Struggling, but not miserable. We persevered.
From what I’ve read, many pilgrims miss the La Vierge — a spot where a statue of The Virgin stands — and the border between France and Spain as one crosses the Pyrenees. This is Navarre. We were mindful to keep this in mind. We also took note of the highest point — this is Col Lepoeder. No way one would miss this. It’s that high point from where it’s nearly all downhill for 5 kilometers or so. It is also the spot where one decides to go left into the beech forests (one of Europe’s largest) or right via “abandoned” country roads. Either way you end up in Roncesvalles. Reportedly, “left is death” and “right is life”. You bet we headed right. And even then, I have committed the numbers 112 into my memory. That’s the European emergency numbers. Like 911. About 3 kilometers down the country roads, one glimpses the rooftop of the grand looking monastery of Orreaga. That’s Roncesvalles in Navarra. A big sigh at this point. The struggle is about to end. The very welcoming hospitaleros in the historic monastery stamped our pilgrim’s passport and promptly led us in to book our beds. But alas, our mountain shuttle was there to ferry us back to Saint Jean Pied de Port for our 3rd straight night. We boarded our van like little children, eager to reach our crib and put up our aching legs before a hot shower. How sweet to get this over and done with. How fulfilling that we persevered and completed the first stage of Camino Frances. Hopefully, my companions will find themselves back on the mountain and forest paths to complete their pilgrimage walk.
Back in 2017, I planned to walk from Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) to Roncesvalles via the Napoleon Route. Unfortunately, that route was closed off due to weather conditions and I instead walked via the Valcarlos route. While I enjoyed this first leg of the Camino Frances, I felt cheated of what is claimed to be the most scenic route crossing the Pyrenees from the French border into the Spanish town of Roncesvalles. And so, I decided I’d give it another try after 8 years. My hair has since turned grey and the young friends I’ve met from the Express Bourricot transport office have matured and ready to build their young families. For a village of 1,500 French-Basque residents, I love the fact that most anyone know everyone.
Start of the Camino Frances
We booked a lovely apartment for 4 nights in Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP). The idea is to walk for 3 days, but stay in the same place. That means we get fetched/transported back to our flat after each day’s walk, and next day driven back to the point where we were earlier fetched to pick up where we left off. Sounds neat. Saves us the trouble of packing & unpacking and sleeping on different beds every night. Also, I like the idea of having a “home” even for 4 nights — with ref and pantry adequately stocked with fruits and groceries. We also love doing the laundry!
Our SJPP Crib
A day before our departure for SJPP, I got an email from Alicia (who runs the apartment) that SJPP experienced some heavy rainstorms and our rooms got flooded. Major headache, as it was too late to look for a sub. Alicia was kind enough to book a replacement apartment only 150 meters away. Trusted her completely and crossed my fingers there wouldn’t be any further issues. As it turned out, we got 2 very roomy flats, each modestly but sufficiently equipped. The best part is it’s only a few meters from the gate towards the start of the Chemin de Saint Jacques (Camino) and right across it, an artisan boulanger patissier operates a shop from where the aroma of freshly-baked breads wafts through the misty air of this French basque village.
Boulangerie with A Baguette Vendo Machine
Every morning, we step out meeting other pilgrims buying their baguette from the vendo machine in front of the boulangerie. It’s like a ritual before setting off on the Camino. And by day’s end, some old folks sit by the bench munching their pastries with their espressos or chocolat. After a day’s walk, I enjoy opening our windows and peeking down, people-watching, while my beef steak or pork sinigang stews. A whole roast chicken for 3 pax too. Fresh white asparagus, mushrooms , iceberg lettuces and the stoutest bean sprouts completed most of our dinners. And those passing pelegrins must have sniffed the steamed rice from our kitchen! All that walking revved up our appetites and nothing beats eating our local dishes. Unlike in Barcelona and Pamplona, we only went out for coffee and pastries here in SJPP. Real meals devoured in our flats on a dining table by the kitchenette.
The Village
We started walking a day after we arrived. Got our pilgrim passports, shopped for groceries and visited the village church on the day we arrived. Also tried some shopping. The flats felt like home, especially after taking out of our luggage and hanging out our clothes for the next 4 days. Since it’s been raining the few days before our arrival, we took out our raincoats but prayed we’d be blessed with good sunny weather during our walks. Read what happened in the next blog 😉
This time, with my niece and my Sydney-based grandnephew. As expected, it’s the typical drill. Gaudi’s masterpieces, La Rambla, Passeig de Gràcia, Ciutat Vella, El Born, the beach, Montjuic and the Palau de la Musica Catalan. The colors of Gaudi’s Barcelona, the food options in Mercat de La Boquería, the chaotic tourist crowd, the vibrant music and sports — all these define Catalan Barcelona. An adequate, if not exuberant introduction to Europe for #aponimamu #withanaccent !
Park GuellPlaça CatalunyaParc Guell
Having arrived mid-morning, we left our bags in the hotel and hit the ground running. Mercat La Boqueria is closed on Sundays but some seafood restaurants deep inside were open for desayuno (breakfast). But we wanted a substantial (!!!) seafood lunch before the Spanish lunch hour. Por supuesto, we had our way. And we were fed adequately and hopped off with jolly bellies. Paella de Marisco, butifarra, pan con tomate, pimientos padron, and patatas bravas made for a good start.
Lunch at Ancora in La BoqueriaMercat de La Boqueria The Pooper
Meant to do a day trip to Girona or Sitges but time wasn’t enough. Gave up on those short trips and instead decided to explore more of Barcelona. Glad over this decision as we found time to visit Palau de la Musica Catalan and spend an early evening at La Barceloneta. Palau deserves more attention, for sure, and the beach is so much better (and more comfortable) during late spring or early summer. What struck me most however is the growing Filipino community here in Barcelona. Our hotel in the Old Town sits across a church apparently frequented by Filipinos. Heard Sunday Mass there where a Filipino priest said Mass and the church is 2/3 full, mostly with Pinoys. And brace yourself, the entire service was in our local language! I was even invited to offer flowers (“Flores de Mayo”) at the end of the service and by the time I stepped out of the church, there was a line of Filipino vendors offering Filipino snacks and other foodstuff. Made me feel like I was home. For a good 1 hour, the only language I heard was Filipino!
San Agusti Church Arco Sagrada Familia
Barcelona is a must-destination. It has a different vibe from the rest of Spain. Must be the Catalan flavor. Plus art, music, history, the beach and gastronomy all play so beautifully together in this one destination. Gaudi’s many masterpieces alone should take at least 3 days even if all entry tickets have been pre-booked! Just that the thick tourist crowd can be exhausting, with skilled pickpockets utterly threatening and annoying. They say local residents dislike tourists and make no bones showing their disgust but fortunately we didn’t experience any of this resentment.
Barcelona. There’s more than just Gaudi. Like there’s the Palace of Catalan Music standing proud, holding concerts since 1908. This UNESCO World Heritage Site was designed in that Catalan modernist style by Architect Montaner, allegedly Gaudi’s mentor. Surely, there is no shortage of geniuses in the Catalan art world.
Concert HallEntrance to Palau De La Musica Catalan
We took a guided tour of the concert hall and was mesmerized by the beauty both inside and outside. Flamboyant, some might say, and likely invited critics during its day. The chandeliers, stained glass windows, the columns and pillars, the flower and animal decor in all its intricate detail. Built from 1905 to 1908, this concert hall was designed for a choral society founded in 1891. The Orfeó Català spearheaded the Catalan cultural rebirth and the magnificent edifice was declared a UNESCO heritage site in 1997. Since its 1908 opening, it has not stopped promoting local composers and artists. Many premieres of musical compositions have been staged here, and some movies and tv shows have featured the palace in all its grandeur.
Ticket Window
I would have wanted to stay longer in Barcelona if only to watch an opera or a flamenco and guitar show. The calendar lists Madame Butterfly in a couple of days but alas, we leave before then. A pity. Hard to leave this elegant edifice, so we had our simple lunch in its Cafe Palau. Just as grand. Every inch of space a masterpiece. For some reason, the cafe cortado and tinto de verano taste better 😉 The bocadillo may be forgettable but I enjoyed the caprese empanada.
Cafe PalauCafe Palau
Truly an architectural marvel. I couldn’t even get past that ticket window ! Next time I make a trip to Barcelona, I will surely check Palau’s concert and opera calendar to time my visit. Stunning is an understatement. Mind blowing, close.
I have been to Barcelona a few times but have never taken the cable car ride to Montjuic Castle. Meant to throw in a visit to the Fundacion Miro to view this Catalan’s artworks but the Museo was closed on Mondays. Darn. 🙄 Settled for a castle tour at high noon and soaked in all that summer heat. I can feel the tan covering my arms and face.
Montjuic Castle
There isn’t much to see within the Castle. I guess much of the excitement begins and ends with the cable car ride. Just a short ride, which in my book, I can do without considering the €17 fee. Didn’t know the buses can bring us to the castle from the funicular station. So if you wish to scrimp, you can save €17 by ditching the cable car. Use the bus to get around the Montjuic area. We could have, but the summer heat exhausted us. I am sure it’s better when temps are lower.
Barcelona Olympics. Estadi Olimpic 1992. But at the moment, I hear that Barça will play their home matches here while Camp Nou is under renovation. I’d love to watch one of those games even if Messi isn’t with the Barça team anymore. There’s Lamine Yamal. And Pedri. And Gavi. And Lewandowski. (No, I don’t like Raphinha) Yay, I digress. Happens all the time once football 🏈 (NOT soccer) is talked about. How I love the sport! Especially Messi. Big fan here 😉
We called it a day after snapping shots of the city from the castle’s ramparts. We could make out the Sagrada Familia at a distance and the Torre Glories looking like a giant bullet shining under the sun can’t be missed. So with the iconic W Hotel in La Barceloneta. After a walking tour around the Old Town (Ciutat Vella), visits to Montjuic and La Barceloneta completed our first whole day in Barcelona.
One thing really going for Barcelona (as compared with other major cities in Spain) is its beach. Once home to Catalan fishermen, La Barceloneta is now a vibrant neighborhood by the Mediterranean Sea famous for its sandy shores, small clubs and boutique restaurants and bars serving seafood tapas.
We were in luck. Sun was out. And the sandy shore wasn’t so crowded with sunbathers. The seafront restaurants had empty seats which we readily claimed. As a former fishing village, its claim to fame as the best source of seafood is justified. Allegedly, the best Paella de Marisco is served here. Big fan of seafood here so I’m always on the lookout for those briny fresh harvests from the sea.
Moritz Bar . I had my cava here. Much like Prosecco, its Italian cousin. Perfect with anchovies on toast. The wait staff were so nice that one called me “Ate” (older sister) even though he could pass as my son. I was rather expecting tourists patronising this seafront barbut instead found locals. A good sign. The prices were also quite reasonable considering its prime spot for sunset views, sea breeze and shore access. Nothing was outrageously priced. That was a pleasant surprise.
Coming from Montjuic where we endured the heat and the uphill climbs, we were prepped to just go easy here in the playa (beach) and then perhaps check out the mercato in the neighborhood. Anything to take our minds off the frustration of visiting Fundacion Miro in Montjuic on a Monday when it was closed! The sea breeze not only ruffled our hair, but clearly emptied our minds of earlier woes. Just that I kind of expected temps to drop as the evening progressed but we were constantly reminded that summer has begun.
Failed to wait till sunset. Couldn’t wait till 9pm. Must be lovely in this part of coastal Barcelona. But our tired bodies pulled us off our seats to start our trek back to our hotel. Maybe next time. Meanwhile, we passed old residential buildings along narrow streets and alleys with laundry hanging from balconies or windows. A few more blocks walking back to the metro station was a row of seafood restaurants and lively bars. Ciao!
We’ve covered Fukuoka in 2017 and 2022, both times in autumn. This spring, we enjoyed the Sakura season from Hiroshima, Miyajima (part of Hiroshima)and Fukuoka. Only 3 items in our agenda — cherry blossoms, food trip and shopping (for most). Our hotel in Fukuoka is right next to the Hakata Station where many shops and restos are, so that’s very convenient. I am not that keen on checking out more spots as I’m booked to be back later (and warmer) this year for some event. For now, let it be truly relaxing . And for more Sakura blooms, we trooped to Maizuru Park. We found many locals enjoying a picnic or just lazing around under the cherry blossoms. Hanami is taken quite seriously here and we’re glad to enjoy that with the locals here.
Maizuru Park
The park is built adjoining Ohori Park around the ruins of Fukuoka Castle. The castle used to be the largest castle in the Kyushu area (Edo Period 1603-1868) but only the walls and a few turrets remain. The story goes that the castle was best forgotten as a symbol of Japan’s feudal past. Just like Shukkeien Park in Hiroshima, Maizuru also has an art museum beside it.
Maizuru Park
After viewing all these hanami spots, we were only too glad we are experiencing the last few days of Sakura here. The crowds are mostly locals, much unlike the thick crowds to be found in the bigger cities like Tokyo, Kyoto and Osaka. The weather cooperated — mostly sunny days in Hiroshima and Fukuoka with temps tempered by our thick and warm clothes. As a big group DIY-ing it, we were surprised we never disbanded nor got separated riding buses, ferries and trams. Dining and shopping was never a problem as our hotels enjoyed a good location. After many trips to Japan, this is only my 2nd time to witness Cherry blossoms in full bloom. First time with the tourist crowds, this 2nd time with the locals. Certainly worth the trip!
Third time is a charm. So they say. The first was in autumn, the next one in winter. This time in spring, in time for Sakura or hanami — a Japanese term meaning cherry blossoms viewing. At the time we planned this trip, we hardly planned around the Sakura season. But the timing’s perfect. And we made good on visiting 4 famous cherry blossoms viewing spots here in Hiroshima.
Hiroshima A Bomb Dome in Peace Memorial Park
Amidst the grim reminders of the horrors of war, the white sakura blooms lining the river are truly beautiful. Motorboats plying the river, passing the Atomic Bomb Dome, give tourists a respite just viewing the cherry blossoms following a heart rending episode in the nearby war museum. A good walk from here, a wharf serves ferries taking in passengers from the Peace Park to Miyajima Island. Still part of Hiroshima, but the 40-minute ferry ride to the island offers more hanami with over a thousand cherry trees along the island’s walking paths towards the iconic floating Torii gate . Another option (which I took on earlier visits) is to take the 30 minute train to Miyajima-guchi and then hitch on the 10-minute ferry to the island. Yet another option is to ride the streetcar (in lieu of the train) all the way to Miyajima-guchi and take the 10-minute ferry. Cheaper, but a few minutes longer.
We took this streetcar after the ferry ride from Miyajima island to Miyajima- guchi Port. Either take this or the train back to Hiroshima.
Oh, let me just say that visiting Miyajima is always a good option sakura time or not. More so if you’re a big fan of oysters and eels. In this tiny island, you’d also be surprised to know that they have their own brewery. What to pair with your oysters and congee eels? There’s a choice of sake or beer. Good combo if you ask me. And then there are those maple-leaf shaped cakes with varied fillings — tried the red bean, matcha and chocolate. Good with Miyajima Coffee , or if you care for more sweets, an affogato from the same Miyajima Coffee Shop.
Hiroshima Castle
Back in Hiroshima city proper, one can visit Hiroshima Castle. You’d find less cherry trees here but if you’re visiting this reconstructed castle, those sakura blooms are a bonus during this time. And a short walk from here is the Shukkeien Park. There may be even less cherry blossom trees planted here but the entire landscape is sooo soothing to the eyes and calming to frayed nerves. The ponds, the bamboo trees, the tea garden, rock gardens, all add to the charm. Pink and white blossoms welcome visitors right by the entrance to the Park. I highly recommend this garden park especially if one has the luxury of spending 1-2 hours here. I notice there is an adjoining Museum and a lovely garden cafe too. It’s not a bad idea to spend an entire afternoon in this spot.
Shukkeien ParkShukkeien Park
So there. Four spots for your next hanami. Sayonara!
The last so many years, I’ve been writing my travel journals on a regular basis. Traveling every so often, hardly staying put. The last 2 years were even busier as I had to keep up with the energy levels of my grandchildren on trips they’re visiting for the first time. Well, as I’ve always said — there is no time to waste, especially when one rolls into their seventies. The first 6 weeks of the year were quite eventful and we struggled to hurdle some setbacks. Only got to work out and prep for forthcoming travels lately and those visa applications remain pending as I write this. No firm travel plans yet except one end of this month while pondering where in Europe to go come mid May. Initially thought of Italy being the Jubilee Year. But the “Jubilee crowd” makes me anxious over tourist and pilgrimage crowds as I’ve heard of long queues just to visit a single spot. Not my cup of tea.
Praying for Pope Francis
Italy has always been my favorite and praying for Pope Francis’ recovery is foremost in my mind. I also want to do another pilgrimage walk in Spain since my last time was even before the pandemic. And of course, there is always the lure of visiting Paris for the nth time. Who grows tired of Paris, anyway?
I try not to overthink (but I do!) at least until my Schengen visa is issued and released. My traveling companion (another “Nieto”) is visiting Europe for the first time so I’m sure he’d be interested in whatever spots or countries I choose for us to visit. With only 2 weeks to spare — corresponding to his school break — we can only cover 2-3 adjoining European countries at best. I know, we can do more but that’s not my idea of traveling. At least 3-4 nights in each spot is my ideal. Wish us luck!
Same time last year, I was only too happy to welcome the new year. It was a very challenging 2023 then and by God’s grace, we breezed through 2024 with many pleasant surprises and happy developments. And just like that, here we are on the last few weeks of 2024, looking forward to a very Merry Christmasand an even happier 2024.
Nightcap at Fairmont Hotel
The first quarter of 2024 was nearly uneventful until my visit to our OZ branch in Sydney. The visit was actually a prelude to an even longer trip crossing 3 time zones. Sydney was our takeoff point for our South American adventure. I waited to join my travel buddies on a flight to Santiago, Chile on April 2. The “barkada trip” covering Chile and Peru spanned over 2 weeks but I left earlier than the rest to join my 2 “apos” in the beautiful city of Venezia for the biennale exhibition. But that’s getting ahead of my story. Patagonia on Chile’s side is magnificent — the kind of adventure you should have planned for when you were younger. Seriously. But visiting it now still stirs that adventurous juice within you. The vista was so dreamy it casts a magical spell. We’ve had some mishaps and coming into Peru, experienced altitude sickness of sorts. Yet, we all cherish the memories and weeks after the trip, found it a chore to move on. We’ve traveled to many beautiful spots together but this South American journey is one for the books. Santiago, Patagonia, Machu Picchu, Cuzco, Lake Titicaca and all the places in between comprise one magical holiday, compelling us to rethink our future travel plans.
Torres Del Paine. Patagonia. Chile. Cusco. Peru
It was agonizing to leave this happy group to take that last seat on a flight from Lima, Peru to Madrid, Spain for a connecting flight to Venice, Italy. By the time I landed in Venice, I felt brain-fogged and nearly deaf after all those flight hours and anxieties over missing my connecting flight. My 2 elves were waiting for me by then as I managed to join them on the exhibit opening day. Without change of clothes, we didn’t miss a beat and went straight to the gallery where my grandma pride took overas I stared at apo’s lone entry hanging on a wall at Palazzo Mora. Grateful. Proud. Beyond Happy. We celebrated the day I arrived with a sumptuous Italian dinner before I hit the sack and snored the night away. Just one night. The following morning, we took the train for Florence where we spent 6 nights and then to Rome for 3 more nights before flying home. It was an Italian holiday that went better than planned.
Venezia
London
Some friends ask me where I get the energy. By September, we got ready for yet another art exhibition in London. Before the London exhibit, we took side trips to Liverpool and Edinburghin Scotland. A most rewarding trip in 3 cities in the United Kingdom. Apo and her mom enjoyed these detours and prepped us good for the exhibit of Filipino artists in D Contemporary in the Mayfairarea of London. Took all of nearly 3 weeks for this UK journey. Stayed home less than 2 weeks before flying back to Sydney — a second visit this year, and this time as a prelude to a New Zealand cruise aboard the Celebrity Edge. Not my first cruise but my first trip to further Down Under! Twelve nights on this big boat, half of which spent at sea. Our big group of 29 made it across those unpredictable waters and found the NZ spots under the tourist radar quite interesting, if not charming.
Celebrity Edge Cruiseship Behind me.
Marina in Auckland, New Zealand
I am home now. Happy to have bonded with my OZ family before and after my NZ cruise. Happy to be back to attend a reunion with college friends and of course, to spend Christmas and New Year with my family. No trips outside the country nor out-of-town. We are staying home to spend time with balikbayan kin and friends. The Yuletide calendar is full, marking a couple of birthdays and a wedding anniversary as well. We have made some Yuletide traditions simpler over the years. Simpler, but more “present”. Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas. May 2025 bring us peace, prosperity, harmony and many treasured momentswith our loved ones ❤️
lifeisacelebration 