It’s my 4th time in Fukuoka, and my 2nd visit this 2025. But it’s my 1st time visiting with young adults, all 3 of them, all under 30. I pulled up the average to mid 30’s and that changes the whole complexion of this holiday. For starters, they booked the flights, chose the hotel and area (Tenjin), drew up the travel itinerary including dining options. I’m not complaining but I had to skip some meals as I couldn’t keep up with their appetites and bar trips. Also, we’re here “officially” for an art event — the Art Fair Asia Fukuoka (AFAF). My nieta has 2 art works on exhibit along with other Filipino contemporary artists. We arrived a day early and left 4 days after the event. Enough time to explore Fukuoka as well as do a day trip to visit Dazaifu Shrine, Beppu Ropeway, Lake Kinrin and YUFUIN Floral Village.
Art by Anna Bautista. Art Fair Asia Fukuoka 2025. Dazaifu Shrine
Of the 3, the young adults were most excited over the YUFUIN Floral Village. I’ve earlier written about Dazaifu Shrine and Beppu, but hardly on this animé inspired village. My young travel mates said I should have watched the movies before coming, if only for better appreciation. In my Studio Ghibli-starved mind, I can only agree with the observation. But I did try to pay more attention to the tiny, colorful, cute-sy souvenir shops and snack booths. I do appreciate the Harry Potter-themed store, and I recognised Miffy, Miss Minchin until the smell of newly-cooked croquettes and kani sticks got my attention. The slight drizzle gave me a convenient excuse to stay in one of the shaded stalls serving peach sour and craft beers. 🙄
Mt Tsurumi Yufuin Floral Village
On Day 4, our “travel planner” cum artist took us to Fukuoka Art Museum. Oh, this we enjoyed so much. The museum has an impressive collection of works by contemporary artists to include Miro, Basquiat, Warhol and Kiefer whose exhibit we visited in Palazzo Strozzi in Florence last year. The collections also included many artworks by Japanese artists. The Museum itself is an interesting work of art. Just outside the museum building is that famous pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama. That familiar yellow polka-dotted pumpkin!
Yayoi Kusama in Fukuoka Art Museum Fukuoka Art Museum
From the museum, we traced the water edge to find “& Locals”, a cafe serving set meals which you eat overlooking the lake. They were simple meals like the mackerel I had with the finest-tasting tea. Interestingly, there were meal instructions to pour tea over the rice meal for better flavor! Plus we all enjoyed the dessert of matcha kakigori we shared. The lunch set us up for a good stroll across Ohori Park with all its tranquil beauty under an overcast sky. The temps are a tad lower compared to the summer heat that welcomed us on Day 1.
& Locals CafeOhori Park
The remaining days were spent mostly shoppingand eating. The dining and shopping spots are different though — the young adults are more keen on Pokémon Center, Tokyu Hands, GU, Uniqlo. As for dining, there is never enough ramen, tsukumen, ice cream, tonkatsu, gyukatsu, gyoza and yakitori. Trips to the Family Mart and 7-Eleven are normal and frequent. I had my egg sandwich fix while the boys made sure they have enough onigiri. For ice cream, we’d walk to the Daimyo Soft Creme and for coffee, Blue Bottle Cafe in Tenjin.
TsukumenGyukatsu
Weather forecast was rainfall throughout our Fukuoka holiday but we were blessed with cloudy skies with a few sunny spells. No rain except for a few slight drizzle episodes. The Art Fair was successfully launched and the after-event party a fun time. We enjoyed all our meals and all attractions. It was a breeze exploring Fukuoka, and would have wanted to stay longer. Seriously. But all’s well. We can always plan another visit 😉
Emy and I feel almost sad to leave our Frauenfeld home, a home that is never locked at night, where neighbors’ voices are hardly heard, where the only noises you’d hear would be the washing machine spinning or the coffee beans grinding. Or our loud Filipino voices and laughter! Our dear Lylah, her hubby and 2 sons, have become our family in Switzerland for a few days.
Since we paid good money to join this Trafalgar tour, Lylah helped us stuff our bags in her car trunk once more, and dropped us off at our Zurich hotel (Hotel Renaissance). On the way to Zurich, Lylah showed us the sights in Wintherthur…..where Fredy was born and raised , where his father continues to live, where they also used to live and run a boutique, and where Fredy still runs a printing press. That same afternoon, we joined our bus for an orientation tour of Zurich’s old town which included Fraumunster and its lovely stained glass windows designed by Marc Chagall. Just across we found Grossmunster in its Romanesque splendor, which literally
means big (gross) cathedral (munster). Considered the “mother church” of Reformation in German-speaking Switzerland, the stained glass windows by Giacometti are just as lovely. The magnificent display of colors aptly complemented Giacometti’s Christmas story. Of course , we didn’t miss Bahnhofstrasse, considered Zurich’s elegant shopping street. Back in the hotel, we met Miranda our Tour Guide along with our fellow travelers on Trafalgar which included 9 USA-based Filipinos, 3 USA-based Koreans, 4 Australians, 2 Canadians, 3 Carribeans who found home in Florida, and Americans from Texas, Las Vegas, California. Miranda promised us a cheese fondue during the orientation meeting, but the fondue never made an appearance. We had chips and nuts.
August 28 Saturday
Early wake up call (gosh, the ordeal begins…..) for our motorcoach ride to Venice . Our Tour Director Miranda decided that we break our journey to do what we can do in Lucerne today while the sun is out. So, we took our lake cruise today . Then, some from the group joined the cable car ride to the mountaintop of Stanserhorn. Emy and I took the chance to instead explore the town where we found a small church, a market where we
Stanserhorn
bought bread, and a small grocery. We then took the Gotthard Route via Bellinzona, with a stopover in Lugano. Some snapshots again here and there in Lugano though the boys in the tour group were quite distracted by topless sunbathers in a nearby swimming pool by the lake. I like my picture with the Carribeans who call Miami, Florida their home now.
No stopover in Milan , which marks my first disappointment with Trafalgar! And there waiting in Mira near Venice was our 2nd disappointment. Hotel Il Burchiello should be spelled ILL Burchiello. This small hotel is so far away from Venice, has hardly any nearby tourist landmark, serves very bad dinners (both of the porkloin or dehydrated roast beef variety ) and even has this old waiter (he maybe the owner of the small hotel) who had the nerve to show his disgusto when Emy and I showed up late for dinner. How on earth Trafalgar rated this hotel among the “first class hotels” is utterly unfathomable. Two dinners in a row, and no seafood. And I thought we were in Venice!
August 29 Sunday
I won’t talk about dinner tonite in ILL Burchiello. It’s a bad ending for what is to be a very good day for Emy and I in Venice. This , despite the Tour Director’s not so subtle proddings for the 2 of us to join the rest on the gondola ride and lunch cruise to the island of Burano.
Where do I begin? First, we started the day with mass at St. Mark’s Basilica. The 9am mass in Italian in this Byzantine church on this sunny Sunday sets the theme for the rest of our journey throughout Europe. Today, I asked our good Lord to send us angels to guide us all throughout our trip and bring us back home safe and sound with happy memories. Which is exactly what we got, plus more. Emy and I walked around the Piazza San Marco and nearby alleys and found another church (St. Pancratius?) . Then we got ourselves a ticket to ride the ferry to Burano ….all for just 10 euros!!!! Wow, isn’t this a better deal than the 50 euros Trafalgar charged our fellow travelers for the lunch cruise to Burano? Wait till Miranda hears this!!!
With that in mind, Emy and I planned on a superb lunch in the island which we reached after some 45 minutes on the ferry and after 2 stops in Lido and Pta de Sabiano. Burano is truly a quaint little Italian island town…….with its small two storied buildings and shops in bright orange, sunny yellow, pastel pink , royal blue and even magenta shades! They even have the equivalent of the leaning tower of Pisa in the island. But the highlight of this side trip lies in the seafood lunch its well managed little bistros and osterias have to offer. Emy and I feasted on seafood pasta and fried fish so fresh, served by the very hospitable bistro owner cum waiter. Of course, my half liter of prosecco went well with the seafood lunch.
After a good lunch, Emy and I had good reasons to digest our superb lunch by shopping around. On full stomachs, we bought our venetian glass pendants, wristwatches in bright yellow, green and the more conservative choco brown leather straps. We also got some shawls, but not the lacy types Burano takes pride in . On our ferry back to San Marco, we decided to cancel plans to get off Lido and instead went straight back to join our group in San Marco. While sitting it out on the ferry , we saw our group’s private launch and thought we probably didn’t miss much fun. Nothing beats being with the locals, as we did on this ferry ride. The ride itself has many stories to tell….. from the patient father attending to his 2 little girls whose mother is in a real terrible mood she wouldn’t stop reprimanding the little ones, to the local teens who can do with some cologne, to the other tourists on board like us who wouldn’t stop spreading out and folding back their Venice maps.
At least, Emy and I didn’t feel so deprived when we faced off with our 2nd dinner at ILL Burchiello. We simply thought back of the superb lunch of fish and pasta we enjoyed in the island of Burano and the memory served us well. Besides, there’s all the watches and pendants we bought “to review” before calling it a night.
August 30 Monday
Another early wake up call. Breathing a sigh of relief that we are finally leaving ILL Burchiello and its stern looking hotel owner, we joined our motorcoach for the ride to Imperial Vienna, Austria. Our Tour Director really hyped about how grand our hotel lodgings are in Vienna, reminding all of us that the hotel used to be a Royal Guesthouse right beside Schonbrunn Palace. Having said that , I knew the hotel must be in the city suburbs rather than the desired city center. I still remember having made that metro ride from the city center just to visit Schonbrunn Schloss sometime in 2000. Well, the hotel is ok though the courtyard “described by Tour Director Miranda” is really simply that, a courtyard. Nothing fancy about it. But the breakfast area is really one for the books. Adorned with a stage intended for performances complete with heavy burgundy curtains, the breakfast room is the best part of the hotel. Our rooms are not air conditioned though, and we had to pray that it will get cooler at night so we need not sweat in our rooms.
A lucky break is our decision to go to Schloss Schonbrunn as soon as we got our bags in our rooms. Truly grand, the palace is a sight to behold. I got Emy to climb the stairs and do an “Evita” in one of the balconies. While our fellow travelers rested their limbs and soulfully unpacked their clothes or took their showers, Emy and I were in the Palace grounds happily snapping away! Good thing Emy finally got satisfied with her shots of this squirrel who just kept hopping away, we found time to visit the nearby St. Michael’s Church near our hotel. We heard mass in Austrian-German and repeated our prayers for a safe and fun journey.
On our way back to the hotel, we found this small café where we tried their “dumplings” to go with some pasta dinner, an experience that need not be repeated. Well, you can’t win them all. At least the café owner was very gracious.
August 31 Tuesday
Our first whole day in Vienna. Emy joined the optional tour of Schonbrunn Palace to see the interiors while I snored the morning away. By the time they were done, I was ready to join the ride to the city where a local guide showed us Hofburg Palace and nearby monuments and buildings. Snap , snap , snap for more photo shots. Too bad the Spanish Riding School is closed. That would have earned a visit from us.
I heard mass at St. Stephen’s Cathedral and texted Emy to find her way to the church where I am seated exactly on the left side of the nave, 13th pew. After mass, we shopped around before queuing up at the Hotel Sacher for the world famous sachertorte and sacherkoffee. What can I say? The coffee with the chocolate liquor is very very good. But I won’t miss the sachertorte. Never mind that the hotel keeps in its vault the “secret recipe” for the chocolate cake. Our local bakers can whip up a better chocolate cake. Besides, their staff are so unfriendly. I asked for water only to be told that I have been served 2 glasses already and that if I like, I should order mineral water instead. The nerve. The waitress even tried to seat Emy and I in the bar, which we flatly refused as we insisted on a table of our own. Ayayay……….these 3rd world babes won’t keep quiet.
Emy will be watching a concert tonight without me. I saw one the last time I was here. While waiting for the bus to pick us up to bring some to the concert hall and the non-joiners back to the hotel, we did a few more rounds in the city center. I wasn’t as lucky as the other time I was in Vienna in terms of shopping. I loitered around with fish and chips on hand, viewed the shop windows and found none interesting enough.
September 1 Wednesday
Today, we leave Vienna and cross over to capital of Bohemia…. Prague. Before reaching this Czech capital, we found time to stroll the gardens of Lednice Palace. The Italianate gardens are real pretty . I took the chance to have photos taken with my new friends from the tour group, the Korean couple Harry and Grace with Harry’s sister Jung. And also Roger who was traveling with his mom and stepfather.
In Prague, we stayed in this big but cold edifice called a hotel. The colossal hotel is very Communist in its coldness, but they have better meals and its buffet! Enough to warm our hearts and deprived stomachs. After a good dinner, we joined the optional illuminations tour with a local guide. Caspar is one exacting, but thoroughly efficient tour guide. He measures his words, never more , never less. And all in a “what you need to know” basis. If I were to write a novel about some Czech spy, Caspar with an almost subtle limp will be that character. He showed us Hradcanny Castle grounds, took us on this small train ride that brought us to the old town square (Stare Mestro) where the Tyn Church, very Bohemian Gothic in architecture, dominates the entire Old Town Square.
On our way back to the hotel in the fringes of the city (where Tram No. 8 ends) , we couldn’t help but notice how lively and vibrant nightlife is in Prague. The many students going to university in this capital probably explains it. But I will likely place my bets on the fact that this Bohemian capital boasts of many good jazz clubs and reasonably priced beers! The small alleys and bends are littered with tiny pubs and jazz joints. Wish Emy and I braved going out and trying out these pubs! Perhaps, another time.
Still in Prague, enjoying a hearty breakfast. Soon after, Caspar gave us a city tour starting with the Hradcanny Castle. In full daylight, we saw the palace grounds dominated by the towering St. Vitus Cathedral and St. George’s Basilica. Caspar explained that the uniforms of the Palace guards were designed by the same celebrity costume designer for the movie “Amadeus”. Hmmm, it pays to have an artistic and talented playwright as the president of the country. Such dramatic flair can only be President Vaclav Havel’s. Caspar didn’t fail to tell us also that much of the film was actually shot in Prague, rather than in Salzburg where Mozart was born or in Vienna, where he stayed . Oh, one last thing: Mozart conducted the premiere of his “Don Giovanni” in Prague no less in 1787!!! Richard Wagner also gave guest performances in this Bohemian capital.
Passing by the Toy Museum, we went through the old castle steps and found our way back in the Old Town Square to view the Stare Mestro in full daylight. This time while waiting for the Astronomical Clock of the Old Town Hall strike the hour and do its parade of the 12 apostles. This main attraction in the Old Town Square is worth the neck-breaking wait for the clock to strike the hour. After this, we were given time on our own for lunch and some shopping. Emy and I found ourselves buying corn on the cob which managed to drip on Emy’s jacket, blouse and shoes. Too tired to notice? Obviously not, as we still went shopping for Infant Jesus of Prague ceramics, old black and white Prague photos lovingly framed, and other souvenir items. Lunch was in a small Chinese restaurant we found near a supermarket . Rice, glorious rice!! After lunch , we tried looking for marionette theaters only to learn that most marionette plays are in the evenings. We stopped ourselves short of going to Wenceslaw Square and lost our chance to pass by the lovely Franciscan Gardens and the majestic National Museum. Our feet won’t carry us any further.
As Caspar instructed, we went through the only street shaded with plane trees, straight up to the hotel with many flags just before a bridge with a metronome (our 2nd meeting place) . Very precise. Very exact. We waited by a bronze statue of a woman with her right hand reaching out as if asking for alms. Naturally, we couldn’t resist posing exactly like the statue. There were other tourists there but only we posed that way. It must be a Pinoy thing.
Next we went to Karmelitska Street where we found the Infant Jesus of Prague, a Spanish Renaissance gift given to the Church of Our Lady Victorious. This was the first Baroque church in Prague. While intended for use by German Lutherans back in 1611, the Church fell to the Catholic Carmelite Order. It has since been a destination for pilgrims from all over the world. It also soon became a favorite hangout for pickpockets . Someone in our tour group had a bad experience of having her bag picked. Good thing she sensed it and the Filipina beside her pushed the thief who dropped her wallet. Gosh, they are everywhere in Paris, Rome, Madrid, and now in Prague.
Then , Caspar brought us to the Opera House where an old humorous man insecure with his limited English showed us around . The performance hall was impressive, but the highlight of the tour should really be the way this funny septuagenarian gave a history of the place accompanied by his piano “recitals” for us all. He was just too funny in his eagerness to please us with his own renditions of Mozart’s great classics.
Finally, we found ourselves in Mala Strana , the Little Town or Small Quarter which is a good anteroom to the magnificent Charles Bridge. Awesome. Just awesome. We could have enjoyed staying longer on the bridge but the fear of pickpockets along with many artists vying for tourists’ attention somehow stains our respect and awe for these marvelous monuments and historic bridges. It was difficult to digest the beauty of the place while holding dearly to one’s pockets.
After this, we were again on our own, strolling around and accidentally finding the Rudolfinum which houses the Dvorak concert hall along the Vlatva River . This neo-Renaissance building honors the 2nd Czech musical genius. Heading for the only bridge with the metronome, we found ourselves too early for the rendezvous. So we strolled along the banks of the Vlatva River, had a cold soda which Emy thinks is too expensive, and enjoyed the breeze.
Before calling it a night, there was also time to drink a few but heavy mugfuls of beer in this pubhouse where this Czech accordionist played music and entertained us. If you ask me, I would have appreciated instead a saxophonist jazzing up some music for us. Incidentally, Tour Director Miranda promised us a Folklore Dinner Show which never came. We overheard her asking the hotel staff if there is a group performing tonight and the hotel staff said no. When someone in the tour group reminded her about the promised folklore show, Miranda lied through her teeth and said it’s no good anyway. At this point, her credibility with Emy and myself plummeted down to zero.
September 3 Friday
A not so early morning wake up call. It’s not too far from Czech to Munich , I guess. We passed by Pilsen as if to remind us that we are moving from the Bohemian beer capital to the German beer capital.
While on the motorcoach, we saw some of Munich’s monuments as well as the Olympic area. We were dropped off in this square with another astronomical clock to wait for the appointed hour for some “parade of statues” much like what we found in Prague. Before then, I took the time to go to the St. Joseph’s Church and yet another church whose name I can’t recall. It’s a bigger church and I found an Adoration Chapel inside with some devout Catholics singing hymns . I felt like there were angels singing a sweet melody. Then it was time to head back for the square to watch the clock strike the hour and this time the “parade” included a joust ….. some medieval story to tell and it spanned some 8 minutes I think. No wonder, the Australian Noreen, lost her battery while trying to film the whole episode. She claims her camera’s battery went dead just seconds before the highlight of the parade. I craned my neck to the very last minute and worried I couldn’t put my head back in its normal place . After the clock spectacle, the tour group is supposed to assemble in the middle of the square for a walk down to the Hofbrauhaus. I took time to get inside the Town Hall and take some shots , only to find the whole group waiting for moi. Oops…….
We found Hofbrauhaus with the oom pah pah band as just another hall with people downing mugs and mugs of beer. What is so awfully wrong here is that we were in such a great place with what seems to be a good band with some really good beer to drink , but at the wrong time! We could have done better going to the Hofbrauhaus after , and not before our German dinner of beef with red cabbage or pork accompanied by that very German sauerkraut. And speaking of dinner, we had a real lousy and salty German dinner. It must be the place…..I mean, I am sure we could have found a better place serving better German food. Urghh….and we all looked forward and paid good dollars for this optional dinner!
September 4 Saturday
From Munich to Lucerne, we had a late start which is a welcome relief! On the way to Lucerne, we made a stopover at Liechstentein. Many from the group paid for stamps on their passports. Emy skipped that and instead explored the very small principality. Emy shopped for some items while I strolled around and found this Liechsteinstein National Museum. The principality didn’t have much to offer though.
This and only this time, Trafalgar billeted us in a hotel within the city center. Can’t go wrong with a hotel just a few meters away from the famous Chapel Bridge of Lucerne. Emy and I took the chance to have our snapshots with the bridge in the background as well as walk through the bridge to cross the river and hear mass in this Catholic Church in Lucerne. It was a lovely mass with lots of singing. The Swiss couple beside me were so nice they kept pointing out to me the pages so I can sing along with them. But everything was in Swiss German, so how? Well, I tried. They hardly noticed.
After the mass, we took the same route to get back to Hotel Flora. We were lucky to have a group comprising some Philharmonic orchestra billeted in the same hotel. It’s a small hotel and it’s pleasing to listen to some of these orchestra members “rehearse” in their rooms.
September 5 Sunday
Many in the group have left early morning for the bus ride to the Zurich airport. Only about 6 of us stayed behind to enjoy a late breakfast. The Canadian couple are excited over their holiday extension in Engelberg, while the Australians Noreen and Jacky had an early start for Interlaken. Emy and I eagerly waited for Moonlight Lylah to pick us up for our trip down south to Saas Fee to view the oldest glaciers.
And so it went that our breakfast served as an early lunch. Brunch , if you like. By the time Lylah fetched us, we were bursting at the seams. The vistas from Lucerne to Interlaken are fabulous. Very blue waters (even more blue than Austria’s Blue Danube) with sailboats dotting the lakes. Then some 3 hours of driving towards Goppenstein…. On land, across the mountain on the Kandersteg (auto on rails!), on land again. It was some experience to ride the Kandersteg, and it only cost SwF25 each way. But alas, we missed the ice grotto in Saas Fee by just 10 minutes. All because we made the mistake of circling the small town to get to the cable car terminal. We could have just taken the lift in the parking lot and headed straight for the cable cars, but no luck. Oh well, at least we saw the small Swiss chalets, the old wooden stilts, the bobsleigh rides, and this noveau ride where one hangs from a rope much like you’d pin your laundry on a clothesline and slide real fast from end to end. So much for adventure…….When I told Fredy we missed him on the ride down to Saas Fee, he said “Then I would have missed the ice grotto as well…” Ho hum, swiss humor.
On our way back to Frauenfeld, we stopped by this hotel-restaurant called Brunig-Kulm Gasthaus for our much coveted Cheese Fondue. Wow. White wine, a variety of cheeses mixed with wine and kirsch, bread lumps, and voila! Hmm, what joy! And we ate dinner with this whole vista of mountains ! Of course we left room for very Swiss dessert called Vermicelle Rahm or something made of chestnut paste looking like pasta strips topped with merengue! Oh wow……never mind that we missed the ice grotto. Gives us a good reason to be back in Switzerland.
September 6 Monday
After a late night, we slept through most of the morning. Then we did the laundry. Emy and I took turns hanging our clothes to dry. Good thing the sun’s out. We need clean clothes for our Russian tour!!!!
By this time, our minds are set on the trip to St. Petersburg and Moscow. After the ordeal of getting our Russian visa, we thought we just go ahead as planned despite the disturbing news on Russia. It wasn’t enough that 2 Russian domestic planes crashed minutes apart, there was the more unsettling Beslan school siege where more than a thousand , mostly children, were held hostage by Chechen rebels. We can only pray again that God will keep us safe and healthy, and surround us with His angels to protect us from harm.
Tonight’s farewell dinner with our Swiss family consisted of baked veal smothered with herbs and that famous Rosti which is really the Swiss equivalent of hash brown. Except that it tastes much better. We also had more cheese varieties to complement our meal: Emmi Apero Brinz (very expensive), appenzeller extra, Thurgauer Rohmkose, and Bonaparte. Impressed? I got all these cheese titles from Lylah’s grocery receipt!!!! And then there’s the Sprungli chocolates for dessert. More wows for our gracious hosts. She really made sure we got our Swiss holiday.
Look at these pictures. It’s not some Ku Klux clan rally or some costume party or some parade. This is a Good Friday procession in the heart of Seville, Spain. We stayed in Hotel Don Paco, and right in front of our hotel, some 4 to 5 processions must have passed. Carried on the shoulders of locals called “costaleros” , the pasos(religious statues) weaved through the narrow streets from almost all corners! Behind and in front of the pasos walked locals called “nazarenos” wearing capes as you’d see in these photos. Some are in white capes, others in purple, some in blue, and many others in black and green . From our hotel , we watched as all these processions emerged from all streets………..and seemed to merge in the plaza near the shopping center (Serpies). Not too far away, we found a St. Joseph’s chapel where we heard Good Friday mass . It was ironic that the streets outside were fully packed with crowds of all ages, and then find many vacant seats inside the church. Among the churchgoers were senior folks, young children obviously towed by their grandparents, and us. The other adults and young teens were all out in the streets watching the religious processions and then disappeared into the many tapas bars all around Sevilla. A bit sad about this, but then times have changed. Walking back to our hotel, we got stuck with more processions.
City Tour of Seville
The following morning, our local guide Carmen toured us around Seville, starting with Casa Pilatos which sadly pales in comparison with Alhambra. But of course. Yet it is not bad at all. Then there is the cathedral with the Giralda Tower which only happens to be the 3rd largest Gothic Cathedral and the biggest altar in the world after St. Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican , and St. Paul’s in London. The Cathedral also happens to be the resting place of Christopher Columbus. And then there is the Alcazar, the royal palace where Muslim taifa rulers and Christian monarchs including Pedro I (Peter the Cruel) lived. Before calling it a night, we went to watch a Flamenco Show in this place crowded by tourists of almost all nationalities. The ticket to the Patio Sevillano show already included a glass of diluted wine or some diluted juice. The show started with 4 female flamenco dancers, each one good. It was wonderful to watch the dancers’ agility with the fans, castanets or even their shawls! But the best was the solo performance of this male flamenco dancer who sweated through his routine. He stomped the floor like there was no tomorrow, he flipped his hands better than the women dancers, his back arched more than any other. That performance alone, makes it worth it. Such intensity!
A famous landmark in Seville is the Plaza Espana in Maria Luisa Park where they had the 1929 American – Iberian Exhibition marking 500 years since the time Christopher Columbus discovered America. Truly a panorama of tiled ballustrades, fountains, towers, etc. Most of the lovely buildings were converted into embassies. We took many of the photos on this spread in this park.
Lunch meant more tapas and a good paella. But we were finding it difficult to appreciate the paella here as we were not used to a very wet paella. Perhaps that is really how the Spaniards cook their paellas? Mind you, we have tried many while touring around Spain.
Here in Sevilla, it was not different. It was just as wet as the other paellas we have tried. But then, there were the many tapas to try. Jamon Iberico, quezo manchego, and those baby eels. Hmmm. Yummy.
Remember the opera “Carmen”? Our guide reminded us of this young maiden working in a tobacco factory where 6,000 other women worked, and which magnificent building now houses a college in Seville. This is very near the Sevilla Pavillion which by the way, now houses a casino. And here’s some trivia from our local guide: Lope de Vega, Cervantes and Shakespeare all died in the same year. Hmmm. Okay.
The next day, we left Sevilla soon after breakfast on our way to Lisbon, Portugal. Two hours into the ride, we reached the border. Before crossing, we stopped by this village where they make my favorite ham : Jamon Iberico de Jabugo. What makes it so special? Hogs used to make this ham are fed acorns! After this, you can forget Jamon Serrano.
Spain is one country certainly worth visiting. But if there is one area where we would choose to stay longer, that would be Sevilla. Tapas, flamenco, jamon jabugo. If you get lucky, you may even watch a bullfight.
Who wants to go through all the trouble of securing a UK visa for a day trip to the Rock of Gibraltar? In my home country, a UK visa is as rare as a visa for the US, and costs quite a lot. A day in the Rock of Gibraltar does not do justice to the nearly US$100 we paid for the visa to enter this UK colony.
The Rock
The Rock is a crown property of United Kingdom in the southern coast of Spain. This limestone promontory juts out into the Strait of Gibraltar and on a clear day, one can enjoy a glimpse of Northern Africa across the Strait . History claims that the area was named after a former slave Tariq who led an army guarding the Rock. Natives thus called the rock Jabal Tariq, which meant Tariq’s mount. Through the years, Jabal Tariq assumed the name Gibraltar. It is interesting to mention that before Columbus discovered America, Gibraltar was thought to be the end of the earth. In fact, the Spanish town Tarifa actually means end of something in Arabic. It was thought then that if one were to go beyond Tarifa, one would fall over the edge of the earth!
With its extended tunnel system or underground passages, the site proved to be a keystone in defending the area against the Germans during World War II. Such military significance inspired the saying “solid as the rock of Gibraltar” . In fact, Prudential Financial uses the Rock as its logo to signify how solid the company is!
Hell Lady Driver from Gibraltar
With 40%!o(MISSING)f the land area classified as nature preserve, there was very little area and very little to do within the Rock. We took a taxi driven by a 67 year old hell of a driver grandmother cum tourist guide. Cost us 20 euros to zigzag our way up to the highest point . Right on this site, we found the “Two Pillars of Hercules” . The myth went that one of the pillars rests on the Rock , while the second pillar rests on the African side.
We visited one of the hundred caves that can be found in this peninsula . The most famous are St. Michael’s Cave and Gorham’s cave. The stalactites are really no different from the usual, and we found ourselves out of the cave soon enough , only to find that the place at the mouth of the cave is littered with monkeys. My apologies, but I was never a big fan of monkeys. Especially the unruly kind. One even got comfortable sitting on the head of one of the elderly ladies. There were so many we felt crowded out. So we decided to take the cab down and simply check out the shops. Just an hour and a half strolling around, and that was it for our adventure on this rock fortress. If we had a chance to stay a couple more days here, I am almost sure we’d run out of things to do. So there. Been there, done that.
The weekend seemed promising as we planned to spend it in a beachfront hotel in Fuengirola in the Costa del Sol area. There was time enough too to visit Mijas, a quaint little town with whitewashed houses, cobble-stoned paths, and donkey or buro carts. Looking at pictures from Mijas, I swear one can easily mistake them for shots of Santorini with its whitewashed stone houses and blue-painted doors. Plus, from what we hear, the shopping is good too!
But I am really getting ahead of my story…………
It was an ordeal having to wake up early today to visit Alhambra Palace before driving out of Granada towards Costa del Sol. If you care to have a good 8hour sleep, make sure you don’t spend Semana Santa in dear Espana. I have no problems with our accommodations in Granada. It was a big mistake though to open the windows and enjoy the breeze last night, when all seemed quiet and tranquil. The commotion outside in the streets below our open windows drew me out of a deep slumber. When I woke up, I couldn’t even think if I were home in Manila, or in Madrid, Toledo or Granada. Granada it was, and it was only 2:30 in the morning. As the shuffle of passing feet and lighted candles finally dawned on me, I simply said my prayers as this religious procession passed and turned the corner from our hotel. The mild shock was hard to shake off, so I struggled to catch a few more winks before our tour of Alhambra Palace early this morning.
Alhambra and the Cathedral of Malaga
Our local guide, Antonio, looked like your average retired professor of history in university. He rattled off dates and other details relating to Alhambra Palace , a former Moorish royal residence . Alhambra dominates the skyline and has 2 parts : the Alcazaba (fortress) and the Palacio de Nazaries. Nasrid Granada, being one of the richest cities in Medieval Europe, certainly showed off their wealth in this magnificent palace. History dates Muslim conquest as early as 711 A.D., until they were expelled after ruling for well over 700 years. As Antonio explained, Granada was the last Muslim stronghold which was finally recaptured during the reign of Fernando and Isabella, the royal Catholic monarchs of Castilla and Aragon, two of the four major provinces of Spain. Antonio did not fail to point out to us the original concept of airconditioning where antique plumbing drew water to flow around and through the Palace to “cool” it , how tiled walls and intricate wood carvings obviously bear Moorish elements, and how the Moorish monarchs may have enjoyed the Generalife Gardens right beside the palace.
In the afternoon, we passed by the famous Cathedral of Malaga where “pasos” bearing the statues of Christ and Mother Mary were being readied for the procession. (Let’s hope this time, it won’t pass our hotel at 2:30am). We did not stay very long here and just had enough time to check out the Cathedral and view the Palace atop a hill . Which was fine, as we longed to reach our hotel in Fuengirola. Our room in Hotel Pyramides offered a beachfront view in this golf club resort town. Many of the guests were tanned to the bones either from sunbathing or from playing too much golf. The hotel served good food and our spacious room even had an anteroom! My friend Emy promptly checked out the nearby supermercado and bought a few hundred grams of Jamon Iberico de Jabugo (to die for, take my word for it) and Quezo Manchego (from sheep, love it!). Not bad. And all that ham and cheese went with Sangria too. Oh, such a lovely day! But not for long………our very big room looks out to the bars and nightclubs by the beach, with all that disco music blaring without let up till 5 a.m. My, these Spanish teens and yuppies surely know how to live it up. And it was a Thursday night!
Day Trip to Mijas
We woke up late the following morning. After all that disco music, who cared to wake up early? Not wasting time, we checked the maps and bus routes and slipped out of the hotel to take the bus from Fuengirola to Mijas. This quaint little town did not disappoint. We had our very own little Santorini minus the beach and the caldera. Touts for donkey rides were hard to shake off, but we managed to stroll around the little town on our own and enjoyed it immensely. I bought an ottoman footstool, a leather backpack, Spanish fans, even a flamenco dress for my grandniece! Oh, I can’t wait to see her in this red and white polka-dotted dress with its tiered skirt. The flamenco dress for the 4 year old went with a pair of castanets too! Now, tell me which doting grandmom could resist that?
By the time we were done with our shopping , we were really ready for our lunch. We feasted on frituras (flour coated and fried seafood such as squid, fish, shrimps) , paella, grilled swordfish and that cold very Spanish soup called Gazpacho. I liked everything else, but I wasn’t a big fan of cold soups. So there……..
On our way back to our hotel, we thought there was time enough for a stroll at the beach. So, soon after we dumped our stuff, we headed for the beach. There were not too many people around. We wondered why. We were almost back at the hotel when we finally discovered why. It’s siesta time!
Just a short, comfortable one hour drive from Madrid to reach this impressive city of 3 cultures. I have to admit that I had my expectations of Toledo, having seen too many paintings of the Spanish city. Yet, I was still awed by its sheer beauty. This place shouldn’t be missed, and should be in everybody’s list to visit after Madrid. Through many narrow alleyways, we passed many houses with Moorish balconies. These ‘extensions’ served as ‘peek out’ places for Muslim women staying indoors and preferring not to be seen. I can just imagine them sneaking a look into the vibrant street scene in Toledo’s narrow alleyways while fiddling with their worry beads.
The mixture of artistic styles speaks volumes on how Arabs, Christians and Jews once lived together in this former imperial capital. Much like the mixed settlements found in the walled city of Old Jerusalem ( check out my earlier blog: When Every Prayer Bead Counts in Israel). The maze of streets make up this city bound by walls and accessed through various gates. We entered through the main gate, the Bisagra Gate, and passed a number of synagogues, mosques and churches. The highlight of my trip to Toledo is easily the Church of Santo Tome , made famous by El Greco’s painting “El Entierro del Conde Orgaz” which translates to “The Burial of Count Orgaz”. By itself, this painting makes the trip to Toledo truly worthwhile. To this day, I can still imagine the many shades of black in this painting. El Greco is truly a genius. The sheer white organza over the black garment showed his genius to the fore. One can almost feel how thin and gossamer the organza fabric was. So with the lacy cloth adorning the necks of those depicted in the scene. El Greco lived out his sunset years in Toledo and truly paid homage to his second home as he immortalized the now famous vista of the entire township, the skyline dominated by the Alcazar and the Toledo Cathedral, and the many winding alleys and cobble-stoned pathways of this place so rich in history and steeped in culture.
Mudejar Style In Art and Architecture
All around the historic city, there is the mozarab (Christians who lived under the Muslim rule) and mudejar styles expressed in the art and architecture.
The arches, ornately designed windows , and other architectural elements envelop you as you walk their streets. While viewing Toledo’s famous cathedral, we saw many tourists shunted to the sides as cars weaved through the very narrow streets of this former capital of La Mancha, now declared a heritage site. (That is the 3rd time I used the word narrow). While waiting for the cars to pass, it was easy to get tempted to get inside some of the quaint looking stores selling mazapan and turrones. And so we allowed ourselves to be tempted and then and there, decided to leave space in our bags before flying home to load up on these goodies. While munching our new finds back into the square, we paused to take in the cathedral with its very flamboyant Gothic architecture. The doorway, with its 3 doors, depicted features of hell, forgiveness and judgment. It was reported that there was a time when indulgences were granted to penitents passing through the door of forgiveness or pardon. These days, it is almost always closed except for very special occasions.
A Hero’s Sorrow
On a hill to the right of the Cathedral isthe Alcazar, the military citadel. A most interesting story has been attached to this monument of art and heroism. The Siege of Alcazar recounts the heroism and supreme sacrifice in the name of patriotic duty of General Jose Moscardo Ituarte back in 1936. For 70 days, Moscardo held out for General Franco’s Nationalist forces and defended the citadel. The Republicans then captured Moscardo’s 16 year old son, Luis, and threatened to shoot him unless Moscardo cedes the citadel. Asking to speak to his son, Moscardo said “Commend yourself to God and die like a patriot” to which his teenage son replied “That, I can do”. Truly, Luis is his father’s son. Moscardo lost his son and up to his final days, wore a black cloak of mourning over his army uniform. The drama and the tragedy are now integral to any story relating to the cathedral.
Long after we left Toledo, we can’t help wondering if the religious tolerance accounted for the very diverse character of this heritage site. Imagine the very Gothic Toledo Cathedral with Mudejar characteristics (claimed to be the 3rd largest in the world), or houses lining the alleys with their Moorish balcony extensions over your heads as you pass, as well as imagining the interfaith harmony as Arabs, Jews and Christians all established their settlements here in this place where their respective arts and culture were allowed to flourish and blossom. The peace and harmony fostered by this religious tolerance may have encouraged many Arab, Jewish and Christian scholars to settle in Toledo and hone their crafts. Just like the Pax Romana where art and culture flourished, here is another example that indeed, “Peace Pays” .
I have been practicing my Spanish for a while………and felt confident enough to go around Spain just a month after my surgery. My doctor said I drive her crazy. My surgeon said I should go ahead and celebrate life. Between those 2 medical opinions, I favored my surgeon’s advice.
Long Trip to Madrid From Manila
With my nephew Ryll and good friend Emy in tow, we braved the long trip from manila to madrid. Left 5 pm Monday; arrived noon next day in Madrid. It was a long trip via Hongkong and Paris. And that is not counting the 3 hour wait in each airports! The Air France flights all went smoothly, and we actually enjoyed all the in-flight meals and movies.
Talking about first experience in good old Madrid……….we hired a cab as soon as we stepped out of the airport to take us to Hotel Praga where we would meet up with our travel group same day 6pm. The taxi driver was some hustler who reminded us so much of Mel Gibson with his unshaven moustache and beard. Senor Gibson overcharged us – we paid 50 euros for a cab ride that should have just cost us only 30 euros. He said it was the Spanish fiesta, as we arrived right on Fathers’ Day (which we later learned was the Feast Day of St. Joseph), and therefore there are extra cab charges. We did not bother arguing with him on our first hour on Spanish soil. By the time we reached Hotel Praga in Madrid, we were just too eager to wave him goodbye.
We met Roberto, our tour director from Cosmos, along with 48 (yes, 48) fellow travellers. A real big group which included 11 Filipinos including the 3 of us. There was this Filipino-Chinese family of 6 pax and a couple from Dallas, Texas who have not visited the Philippines for nearly 2 decades. The tour group also counted some Canadians, British, Australians, Mexicans, Americans. Mostly senior citizens except for the Canadian group made up of young Cornell University graduates, maybe in their mid 20’s. Emy and I roomed up, while Ryll roomed up with Douglas. After our meeting with the Tour Group, Ryll , Emy and I didn’t waste time and went to explore Madrid straight away. We took the bus from the hotel to reach Plaza Mayor.
Right smack in the middle of Puerta del Sol near Plaza Mayor is Kilometro 0 where 10 streets converge and where distances are all measured. There were so many people around. And so many pickpockets too! Too many shops, tascas, tapa bars. Except that the shops were all closed because , as Senor Gibson said, today is a holiday!
Long Walk For A Cup of Chocolate and Some Churros
Armed with our Lonely Planet travel book, we walked up to Calle de Preciados and found Iglesia de San Gines. No, we weren’t planning to go to church today. The LP book had the iglesia as landmark to find what was allegedly the best place for churros con chocolate. Mind you, the Chocolateria de San Gines has every right to boast it has the best churros in town. It was an experience just dunking those churros in that thick hot chocolate. While enjoying all this, we can’t help but notice this old man we assumed to be the owner of the chocolateria with his loyal dog by his side, seated at a corner table. He saw everyone in, and barked orders from his seat. We likewise assumed that the busboy , cashier and other servers must be his son and daughters. I told Ryll that i can see myself in that old man. Tucked into a corner with a loyal dog, reading a good pocketbook, sipping good chocolate or coffee, and barking orders without let up!
Energized by the hot choco and churros, we tried walking back to the Plaza Mayor to catch our bus back to the hotel, but instead ended walking along Calle de Alcala. It was the other way. No problem. The LP book said we should find the Plaza de la Cibeles and the Palacio de Communicaciones here. What a magnificent sight! And it is only their Post Office. The lights did justice to the ancient building, so we took turns having our photos taken here with all that illuminated background. We were sure the Goddess Cybele wouldn’t mind. We also found a church nearby, which happened to be St. Joseph’s Church. The Church was all darkness with lights focused only on the altar where a small choir was singing church hymns. Got goose bumps right that moment, just watching and listening.
Of Siestas, Old Restaurants And A Bit of Shopping
On the way back to the hotel, we also found El Corte Ingles, a famous department store chain. Of course it was closed. We thus kept our money. And since it is nearly Holy Week, we expect to save a lot of money at the rate the Spaniards spend siestas and close shops on almost any excuse or holiday. Let us just hope the restaurants, tavernas, tascas remain open. After all, we do have a long list of Spanish food to check out: paella, callos, cocido madrileno, chochinillo, fabada, bacalao al pilpil, manchego cheese, jamon jabugo, jamon serrano, chorizos, pescado en salsa verde, sopa castellano, turrones, etc.
On our way out of Madrid, we did have a chance to dine at Casa Botin, the acclaimed oldest restaurant in the world. Or so it is claimed in the Guinness Book of Records. El Botin is famous for its cochinillo (suckling pig), cordero (roast lamb), pescado (fish) with accompanying mushrooms and green beans. Ernest Hemingway was said to have dined here often, even had a favorite spot by the brick wall. You can only imagine how many diners tried to sit in that same spot (I should know, I did) and rub their backs on the brick wall.
Other than Casa Botin, there was also that unforgettable lunch at Museo del Jamon. No callos at the time we were there. Instead, we had Fabada, Frituras, Sopa Castellana, Chorizo, Quezo and Gambas. You bet we didn’t miss the chance to try the Manchego cheese. We were still drooling over our lunch here only to be roused out of our dreamy adventure when someone tried to pickpocket Ryll. Nothing stolen, but those 2 gypsies sure came close to it as they managed to unzip Ryll’s front pockets!!!!
No shopping, all eating. Not a bad deal. As we waved temporary farewells to Plaza Colon, Plaza Callao, Plaza Espana, Royal Palace, Puerta del Sol, Plaza Mayor, on our way out of Madrid, we felt our bulging waistlines and thought………….Espana is threatening to fatten us for the next 2 weeks.
Has anyone been to Bulgaria? Well, our traveling group didn’t cover much ground in Bulgaria but what I remember about this trip is how well we started it. Coming from more than a week’s travel around Greece, we drove from Thessalonika towards Bulgaria. Our introduction to Bulgaria was a visit to the impressive, awesome Rila Monastery. The pictures do not do justice to the lovely sights of Rila Monastery. Do please remember that I was then still using a non-digital camera. Just point and shoot, no reviews permitted. If one gets a double exposure, tough luck.
The Monastery of St. John of Rila
I am not into antiquities. I am not even a collector of anything. I never formed any attachment to material things and a piece of art for me, is really something best preserved and safekept in a museum. At best, I will forever keep a good photo of the place I visited to serve my memory right. It was very cold when we got to Rila Monastery. As in snowy cold. Must be about 3 inches of snow. Which added to the mystery of the place. There were not too many tourists. I’d say there was just our group , which is kind of big at over 30 pax, and perhaps a couple of small groups. I hardly knew where to start.
RILA Monastery
The Monastery of St. John of Rila is the most famous, if not the largest, Eastern Orthodox monastery in the whole of Bulgaria. This UNESCO World heritage site is a monument to faith, culture and architecture. Some writings cite St. John of Rila as having founded the monastery in the 10th century. Others say he lived in a cave not far from the monastery, and that his remains were safekept in the monastery. (Story goes that St. John or St. Ivan to the Bulgarians, couldn’t put up with the moral decline prevalent during his time, that he chose to live like a hermit in a cave dwelling. Now, if all of us are of the same character as St. John of Rila, I bet this world will run out of caves……..) Whatever, this complex is certainly worth a visit even if one were to skip all other sights in Bulgaria . It is not much to look at from the outside. The front wall looked even bleak.
Alexander Nevsky Cathedral
But as one enters, you will be in awe and marvel at the sights with the high snow-capped mountains as backdrop. One goes through the church entrance and allow one’s self to be enthralled by all the frescoes, the icons, the mosaics which all add to the spirituality within the monastic grounds. This place is Bulgaria’s own renaissance. Now, I wish we could have spent more time here in Rila. But we were told this is just a stopover on our drive towards Sofia. A very pleasant stopover, indeed. Perhaps, next visit we should arrange staying at least a night in the monastery itself. Now, that would really require another visit!
From Rila to Sofia, the Capital of Bulgaria
But hold it………..from Rila, we drove towards the nation’s capital. It was very dark by the time we reached the capital. Hotel Intercontinental provided us with a very pleasant overnight stay. The hotel complex is huge, in stark contrast to the poverty around it. It was hard to enjoy a good meal in the rooftop restaurant and ignore the dilapidated one storey residential dwelling of Sofia’s urban poor. Nor to enjoy the many lanesof the bowling alleys in the basement of Hotel Intercontinental. Perhaps it was constructed as such, if only to discourage hotel guests from venturing out of the hotel compound and risk getting mugged. I wandered around the shops within the hotel complex and felt happy with the single purchase I made. A new cardigan! After dinner and a soak in the tub, I was ready to count sheep.
Sofia is very cosmopolitan. Truly a nation’s cultural, political and commercial capital. The Alexander Nevsky Cathedral with its golden dome is very lovely to look at. My untrained eye soaked in all that beauty while my fellow travelers got busy checking out the many stalls by the cathedral’s side. I can’t blame them. The hand-embroidered table linens and lacy materials were hard to resist. My roommate on this tour, Marylou, ended up with a bundle of table linens. I thought then that she must have a huge dining table. We also checked out Turkish Bashi Mosque, and admired the ancient Church of St. Georgi. There was also an impressive looking Opera and a few concert halls in the city. I thought then how difficult it must be to listen to the opera while one’s stomach is grumbling. My apologies, but it was hard to ignore the contrasts and the gap between the rich and the poor in Sofia. This is not new to me. I see it everyday back home in my own country. Very sad. On that sad note , I missed the opera tonight and had another good night’s sleep instead. Tomorrow, we move towards Bucharest, Romania!
(I have revisited many countries but not Romania. Not sure if I’d ever have a chance to do another trip here. Meanwhile, I’m reposting my 1996 journal here as I’ve learned Travel Blog site where I posted my blog now risks a shutdown.)
On the bus on way to Romania, we swapped horror stories. Sensing the mood, our Globus Tour Director promptly reminded us of the story of Count Dracula. Not the Hollywood version, but the Transylvanian version. Bran Castle in Transylvania, built in the mid 1300s, is the legendary home of the Count of Dracula.
By the time we reached Bucuresti, our hairs stood on edge and we were all ready to scream at moment’s notice. The Hotel Bucuresti fuelled the grim mood , what with its old world interiors, heavy gold and burgundy drapes, wide windows framed by yards and yards of mothball-smelling curtains. My bednight table held a lamp which must have seen better times. Or maybe, I am simply an imbecile with no appreciation of old world charm. But how do you deal with a front desk staff and concierge dressed in black plants and burgundy vests standing tall and unconcerned? We arrived middle of the night, and we were reminded to go to this hall where they would serve our dinner. The hall had bad lighthing, and the red carpet looked like it needed replacement. If some thief came to this place, I will bet my bottom dollar they cannot go very far if they snatched any of the furniture here. The lamp shade, the decor, even the hard wood table gave a feeling of heaviness just before our forgettable dinner. For the first time, I am happy for the long bus ride. Sitting many hours on the coach, I was eager to catch many winks and prep myself for the days ahead.
First off, we boarded our coach and had a city tour. Bucharest truly lives up to its monicker of “Little Paris” or Paris of the Balkans. The tree-lined boulevards, complete with its own version of the Arc de Triomphe, was reminiscent of the high life in Paris, France. We strolled along Bucharest’s oldest and very charming Calea Victoriei or Victory Avenue and passed flower-festooned parks and gardens, the Revolution Square, the National History Museum, the Royal Palace, etc. I did not know how to feel when we were brought to the exact spot where the Ceausescu couple were publicly executed. Next we went to visit the House of the Parliament or what they call as the Parliament Palace, touted as the second biggest ever building in the world next only to the Pentagon. Wow! This structure is a monstrosity. The dictator must have been carried away when he had this structure built. The Palace was built exclusively with Romanian materials and therefore is a showcase of Romanian talent for the arts and architecture. The same is true for all the furnishings inside the Palace. Don’t be surprised to be dazzled by all the talents expressed in this colossal structure. No wonder former President Nicolae Ceausescu and his wife Elena were publicly executed for excesses committed during his 24 year rule. Or should I say 24 years of his dictatorship?
Next, we went to Cotroceni Palace and Museum. This royal palace was home to former King Carol I, whose monarchy ended in the 1940’s. In 1977, then President Ceausescu converted this royal residence into a guesthouse. The Museum housed many pieces of medieval art. If you ask me, the palace architecture by itself is a museum piece. Our last stopover was at the Village Museum, an outdoor museum showcasing Romania’s rural architecture. Carefully taken apart and reassembled at the Village Museum, one would find old rural barns, peasant homes, cottages, small churches, wind and watermills, and
artisans’ workshops from all over the country. Strolling around this “village” was actually quite refreshing. We also took advantage of the leisurely afternoon to enjoy the lovely Cismigiu Gardens. Then back to the hotel to freshen up before our dinner . Tonight, we tasted a typical Romanian fare and excellent local wine, while enjoying the songs and folk dances. It was a good way to end our Romanian Adventure.
Just out of Israel, we changed buses and drove towards Cairo.Our new Globus Tour Director took over from David (sob…..) and her first encounter with Steven was not very pleasant. As she led us to our bus with a cracked windshield on the right corner, Steven joked if she caused that crack. She was a little bit on the chubby side and didn’t receive the joke, and the laughs it drew, very kindly. For that reason, I will not be mentioning her name here. After all, she was indeed a very competent guide. Maybe just a little too sensitive.
The Hotel Mena Oberoi in Cairo, Egypt stunned us back to our senses. In a five star luxury way! We are indeed in Egypt………as the luxury hotel was located right smack in an area where one is afforded a view of the pyramids! You’d feel that you only have to venture out and walk towards the pyramids! As it turns out, the hotel was a former palace in the outskirts of the city , a stone’s throw away from the Giza Plateau. I honestly thought we had to cover many miles to drive out of Cairo to see a pyramid, but here we were looking at a few in our very own neighborhood! The palatial hotel covers about 40 acres, boasts of a garden that smells of jasmine, an olympic size swimming pool right in the shadows of the Great Pyramids of Giza. We were so lucky that we arrived at the exact time that a wedding was taking place in Mena House. Just a small crowd, but one can tell it was a very elegant , albeit modern Egyptian wedding. When we checked out our sleeping quarters, we were again pleasantly surprised by the sheer size of our hotel rooms. The luxurious interiors made us feel like royalty. And the food! This time, I turned completely Middle Eastern on my choice of food. I enjoyed all the hummus, bread (nahn? chapati?) , lentils (dahl?), barbeque (kebabs?) , curry, etc. My friend Steven was not up to it, and suffered a bum stomach on his very first day in Egypt.
Pyramids, Camels, and a Bum Stomach?
After a good sleep last night, we were ready to explore Cairo. Our guide immediately took us to the 3 pyramids of King Chephren, Cheops, and Mykerinos. And of course, the Sphinx! We took some very good photos here. In fact, my all time favorite travel photo was the one taken where I posed “leaning” on the Sphinx. Our smaller group also tried scaling one pyramid —- this one’s not the perfect triangle pyramids you normally see. Check out the picture and you’d know what I mean. We also took our camel rides here. Arlu and I rode on the same camel and I must have shattered Arlu’s eardrums as I nearly screamed each time the camel took a step. More screams getting on and off the camel. I was so scared I would fall off. Steven with his bum stomach sat it out, but later regretted not joining us. He was pestered by touts offering camel rides the whole time. As soon as we dismounted our camels, he literally ran to join us and sought help to fend off the touts. LOL.
Awesome Museum. King Tut and His Treasures. Mummies.
The motorcoach took us back to the city center for lunch. Then, we were driven to the National Egyptian Museum where we were shown around the impressive Halls of this museum like no other. There was a special section housing the treasure of the boy King Tutankhamen. King Tut to many. The bejewelled sarcopaghus with vibrant colors of gold, royal blue, deep green, ruby red, etc. make you gasp at the sheer wealth enjoyed by these Pharaohs. A pity King Tut didn’t live long enough to enjoy his treasures and his very privileged life. There was also a separate gallery where they kept the mummies. Now this one gave me the creeps. Never again. I have seen one mummy too many.
When we were done with the Museum, we were advised by our guide about some unfortunate incident just outside the museum grounds. A bus packed with German tourists was bombed , and there were casualties. Egypt is very serious with their tourism industry, which accounts for about half of it entire economy. This is truly bad news. Poor tourists and their families. I can’t imagine the grief, especially since these guys were here on holiday, supposedly having fun and enjoying their adventure. Then and there, a couple in our group elected to cancel the rest of their trip to head home. I said a prayer and then decided I’d stick it out with the group. We would be flying out of Cairo tomorrow anyway, towards Aswan where our Oberoi boat waited to take us for the cruise along the River Nile. We headed back to our lovely hotel soon after, and enjoyed what’s left of the day checking out the grounds of Mena House.
Flight to Aswan, where our Cruise Boat Is Waiting
The following morning, we took our domestic flight from Cairo to Aswan. Security was very strict and our flight was delayed. It was almost lunch when we landed in Egypt’s sunniest Southern city. We took our bags and boarded our cruise boat—-not the big sized liner, but one with maybe just 5 levels and a roofdeck. The boat is not going anywhere today, but this would be our cramped sleeping quarters for the next 8 nights. My roommate and I spent the next hour unpacking, and then wondering where best to store our suitcases. While the boat had no plans to go anywhere today, we found the Nile at its most beautiful here. Our guide promised us a feluca ride (sail boats, good for maybe 10 pax) to check out some tiny islands along the Nile.It was nice just watching the sailboats etch the sky with their tall masts or just sitting on the boat’s roofdeck listening to Nubian music. We also found time to check out the old Aswan dam, a few miles down the river. From the top of the 2 mile world-famous High Dam you can gaze across Lake Nasser, the huge reservoir created when it was built, and the huge power station to the north. This was truly an engineering feat when it was built in the 1960s. Some trivia here: the dam construction threatened to submerge some historic temples like Abu Simbel . The Egyptian government sought UNESCO’s help which then launched a world wide appeal help to salvage the temple. The result was another engineering feat. It was a salvage operation like no other, where the temple was dismantled and raised again up the sandstone cliff where they had been built over 3,000 years ago! The 2 temples, when reassembled, were in exact relationship to each other, and still manage to bring out the full might of the pharaoh god in this edifice. Whew!
Off to Kom Ombo and Edfu.Then Luxor and Karnak. Valley of the Kings
From Aswan, Kom Ombo and Edfu are both easily accessible. I cannot remember all the names of all the egyptian gods and the names of the many temples, except one dedicated to a crocodile god, Sobek. These magnificent temples are all in a dramatic setting on high ground beside the Nile. Another I remember is Horus, the falcon-headed god and Isis too. The temple designs are very unique , and even follow some sort of a pattern. When I viewed my photos , I can hardly tell one temple from the other as they all seem to have been built using more or less the same proportions and entrance facades.
Cruising the Nile has a lot of advantages. For one, life in Egypt is more or less restricted along the banks of the Nile, and therefore all the temples and magnificent monuments can be found there. It was also an experience just watching the sunset on the boat’s roofdeck while seeing how some Egyptians live. The Nile River sometimes narrows in certain areas, such that you can practically watch kids bathing along the riverbanks waving as we passed by. For another, there is so much to be said on the food served on cruises such as this. After one buffet meal, i refused to check out the buffet spread anymore and contented myself getting a seat on this table with the best view, and ordering my pasta and soup dinners. I avoided the salads, as Steven said he may have gotten his bum stomach from the raw salads. Also, the boat cruises ever so slowly, hopping from point to point without rushing to it. Thus, we slept like babies enjoying their lullabies. What a life!
When we reached Luxor, the temp was a burning 48 degrees celsius! I limited my wardrobe to the crew necked shirts i bought in Israel and put back all the other blouses and cardigans back into my suitcase. (One thing about cruises, someone can do your laundry!) Some in our group chose to stay with the boat than brave the heat. Sure, the heat sapped our energy but i just couldn’t pass up this opportunity to visit Luxor and Karnak temples and explore the many monuments of ancient civilization in the Valley of the Kings. The Southern temple, Luxor, is dedicated to Amon. That’s what my 1996 journal says. I also inscribed “Harem of the South” but now cannot recall the story behind that. Both Luxor and Karnak Temples were built on a massive scale . Mind-boggling if you ask me. The columns are so huge it eclipsed the ones I saw in Greece. The temple complex spans many acres , maybe a hundred, and boast of many other monuments worthy of being displayed in major museums. The hieroglyphics and statues of temple gods speak of an ancient civilization far advanced for its time. And the undying colors! Our guide mentioned that Egyptologists have to this day not uncovered the plant sources for these undying hues. And then there was the most famous tomb in the Valley of the Kings, circa over 1,000 years before Christ. Howard Carter’s discovery in 1922of this tomb inspired the many Egyptologists who remain hooked on studying this ancient civilization. It has also inspired many books, novels and even movies. King Tut’s fabulous treasures caused a worldwide sensation especially after its discovery was clouded by the myth of the curse attached to its discovery. Some tourists refused to enter the site of the tomb discovery, thinking the curse might rub off on them. My party of 5 pax braved it and went down with our guide. Coming out into the sweltering heat after that, I stubbed my toe. I hoped then that it had nothing to do with the curse! Next we hiked off to the temple of Queen Hatshepsut, the only woman to rule over Egypt as a pharaoh. Her temple was named “Djeser Djeseru” , meaning splendor of splendors. And believe me, it was aptly named.
Some adventure we had today. When we went out for a stroll during this warm night, we saw the temples all lighted up. So lovely. There was a hotel by the cliff, where guests may take this white open top carriage, which I found so romantic. The carriage rolled past us, and long after they passed, we can still hear the horse hooves hitting the road in regular intervals. Somehow, that had a mesmerizing effect on all of us. We went back to our boat just in time for late dinner. Again, I stuck to my pasta and soup dinner. Then we all trooped to the lounge and downed two bottles of wine. We could have had more, but there was a flight to catch tomorrow.
Back in Cairo
Back in Cairo today. It was pleasant to be back in Mena House. The palatial grounds welcomed us and it was good to exercise our limbs after being cooped up in those cramped quarters on the boat. Not much to do today except to shop. Oh oh. I won’t tell you about the rest but I shared with many my habit of buying charms wherever I go. For Egypt, Turkey, Greece and Israel, I bought enough charms to put in a bracelet. There was the menorrah from Israel (menorrah is like a charm to the jews, placed on the right side of the doors to their homes, much like a blessing to those who enter) , there’s a camel, an image of King Tut (yeah, brave huh), a bug that was supposed to be a god of fertility, a miniature temple column, and a miniature Aladdin’s lamp! This way, I “composed” my own charm bracelet which now serves as my best souvenir from my travels. Neat, don’t you think? My friends have now started this habit as well, and we sometimes compare our charms whenever we meet using our bracelets.
Our last day in Cairo was spent visiting the oldest part of the city, known as Coptic Cairo. Originally a Roman fortress town called Babylon, one can still see the Roman walls in all its splendor. Then there was the Citadel of Saladin with its beautiful mosque. We even visited this Hanging Church and I tell you, that flooring sure shakes. Regardless of our different faiths, we all said a prayer of thanksgiving that we were kept safe and enjoyed our trip all around Egypt. Too bad some of us in the group canceled the trip upon learning of the bombing incident near the National Egyptian Museum. Back in the hotel, we checked out the grounds once more. It was dusty all around. The winds carried the sands from the desert. So we trooped back to our hotel rooms and started packing for our homeward trip tomorrow.
It was sad to say farewell to newfound friends. We weren’t sure when we would meet again, but my traveling companions have been my friends for thelast 2 weeks, some for the last 38 days. We shared the same adventures, laughed at the same jokes, delighted in the many sights we visited. Hopefully, our paths will cross again.
(At the time, there were no digital cams. I scrimped on my shots and the few I took suck. Thank you, Anastasia Anastasia78, for sharing these shots with me of the lovely Mena Oberoi Hotel in Cairo, Egypt)
lifeisacelebration 