Category: Spain


HOME SWEET HOME


 

 

This is the moment where I take a break from travel blogging. Back home now after 2 and 1/2 months based in Madrid, after 42 blogs on WordPress and 5 more on TravelBlog. I was busy apartment-hunting with my niece, IKEA-shopping for furniture, waiting and wasting lotsa time for the delivery men, and getting serious with household chores. Well, sort of.

 

 

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So, how was it? I never made it out of Madrid in the first 4 weeks. In fact, the first week spent in a hotel was most boring, while the 2nd week apartment-hunting provided the excitement. I did most of my Madrid walks during the first week as there wasn’t much to do in the hotel. Besides, wifi sucks in that hotel.

 

 

The 3rd and 4th weeks were devoted to furnishing the apartment, having the appliances and furniture delivered and assembled. I enjoyed this part. In between, my daily trips were largely to Carrefour, the palenque and the Chinese stores for food and little things like sandwich bags, detergents and other cleaning stuff.

 

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By the 2nd month, we were nicely settled and welcomed our first batch of guests. All girls. No room for men guests as there is only 1 toilet and 1 bedroom. The sofa bed in the living room warmed many backs. My “survival cooking” survived. No one grew hungry, for sure. While we had no TV and wifi yet, we spent a lot of time chatting, laughing and eating.

 

 

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By this time, I have already mastered the metro system, the “free days and viewing hours” of most museums, the bus system and gained “Suki” from the palenque. My favorite vendor is this man who would always offer me a sliver of Jamon or Quezo to try. “Para prober” he always says. And I always gladly accepted. ☺☺

 

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I’ve spent Semana Santa in Andalusia, a long drive to Valencia and a last weekend in Barcelona. In between, there were day trips to Segovia, Avila, El Escorial, Valle de Los Caidos, Toledo, Aranjuez, and Alcala de Henares using the bus, the regional train, or the fast train. I experienced ALL seasons in the last 10 weeks. In Valencia, temp went from 7 Celsius to 27 Celsius in 8 hours. In Segovia, it snowed. Crazy, I know. I have been to Costa del Sol, Malaga and Granada before and felt no craving to revisit. Not yet. I would have wanted to see Salamanca again but there was no chance. Shopping for gifts to bring home took precedence. Perhaps next time.

 

 

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Now I’m home…. in sweltering heat. I miss my daily walks in cool weather. I miss dragging my “old lady’s” shopping trolley whenever I set out to do the groceries or marketing. I miss my pair of boots which I left in the apartment. Back to normal. Back to “Lola mode”. No more solo trips except to the beauty parlor. My elves waited too long and it’s time to catch up with one another.

 

 

Since I arrived, I have completed all my blogs on my Spanish “holiday” (or have I?) and stayed home most of the time. It breaks all newly- formed habits and patterns. I even miss our washing machine in Madrid! Oh well……..


Live like it’s the last day of your life? Naaah. If that’s my mantra, I’d likely just stay home and spend time with family. Or pray in a convent or church.

 

I live like there are many days ahead to celebrate life. I go to the Prado and take in just a few. Knowing there would be other days to enjoy more. Leisurely. No rush. I visit Barcelona for a weekend thinking there would be many more weekends to spend there. I love visiting and revisiting places I enjoyed. That explains why I take photos in the exact same places where I had my photos taken years ago. The unwanted pounds. The unwanted lines and wrinkles. Little reminders of time past. Who cares? I’m enjoying life. Without the rush.

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It’s not that I recommend it, but more than a few times I find myself buying a ticket from a vending machine to catch a train departing in less than 5 minutes. Imagine the thrill of brisk walking to the escalators, down to the ramps or platform, and hearing the train doors close behind you after having just hopped in.

 

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And how about the excitement of reaching your destination? No matter how much you’ve read up on the place, I like the momentary ignorance and madness of deciding which way to go out of the train or bus station. Do I turn right, left or go straight? When I went to Aranjuez, I wondered whether I’m getting off in the middle of a forest. That’s how it looked just before the train stopped and I heard the announcement that we have reached Aranjuez. I walked for about 10 minutes to reach the Royal Palace and Gardens. No one to ask as most others who got off the train took the bus or were fetched by friends or relatives. It would feel the same way going to Valle de Los Caidos, except that most bus passengers are likely tourists like you too.

 

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Fortunately, Spain has a superb transport system. The Metro, regional trains, fast trains, buses are all so easy to deal with. And clean! I also found the Spanish very friendly and helpful. Once, there was this middle-aged lady who actually walked with me for some blocks till the last corner just before my destination. In Alcala de Henares, the young students tried to be very precise with their directions (a plaza or square lined with plane trees, a building with many columns, a house with bronze statues and a fountain, etc).

 

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It helps that google allows me to do virtual tours and obtain directions. While I do get maps and check out the attractions in each place, I always seek to get images of the palaces, museums, parks or whatever else I intend to visit. This allows me to easily “spot” the sites I intend to visit.

 

 

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What I love about traveling solo is I get to linger longer in places I like, and eat whenever it suits me. The only drawback is that I don’t get to eat all I like. I mean, you can only order so much for yourself, right? No one to share with. My routine is normally to eat small portions but more often, so I get a variety of the foods I’d like to try without appearing like a glutton.

 

 

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Good research, with lots of allowances for spontaneity, and a good pair of walking shoes. Or boots to keep those walking legs warm when the temp drops. This is important. No way I’m walking anywhere unless I have comfortable footwear. Many make this mistake of looking fashionable rather than comfortable. Trust me, they are not mutually exclusive.

 

 

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So who says you’re too old to travel solo? I have no talent in the kitchen. Just survival cooking for moí. I’m pretty neat at home but it’s not like I enjoy domestic chores. I love to read, but my pocketbooks travel with me. A bench in the park and a cup of good brew make perfect companions. I get my adrenaline rush chasing trains, snapping photos and eating local delicacies. When I am home, I am more likely doing my “research” or blogging rather than busy with my knitting needles. C’est la vie! 😉😉😉

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Why ever not? Stayed away from my beloved pig for some weeks since Segovia. Time to have that memorable moment to savor before going home to Manila.

 

 

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Casa Botin or Sobrinos de Botin is in the Guinness Book of Records as the OLDEST RESTAURANT in continuous operation in the world. Established in 1725, its claim to fame is even bolstered by an endorsement from no less than Ernest Hemingway who once said the place serves the best cochinillo. Like Hemingway, many Spanish and Western authors have been lured to this place and actually had the restaurant as setting in their novels.

 

 

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Be warned though. The place is a tourist trap. Make sure you have reservations. Decide whether you’re having the suckling pig or the suckling lamb. Both are good. And if you’re a party of say 4pax, you can actually share a couple of cochinillo and an order of Cordero. Tell the waiter you are sharing and they’d take care of splitting the 3 orders into 4 platefuls of the coveted meat. Then share a pitcher of sangria or a bottle of house wine. No sense ordering the set menu of €43 per pax when the included dessert is just some dollop of ice cream. And if you’re skipping dessert, you might as well order the morcilla from Burgos for appetizers, if you like.

 

 

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After your Botin dinner, walk off all that cholesterol to the Mercado de San Miguel for errrrr…… more cholesterol. There’s a bounty of choices here. Nougats or turrones, crema de Catalan, meringues, yogurt, etc. And if by chance you’re able to work up an appetite other than for desserts, visit this TV guy named Senen and check out his tortilla española. Buen Provecho!

 

 

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How best to spend €3? Buy a ticket to the Museo Sorolla!

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This is the house where the great Spanish painter Joaquin Sorolla lived with his lovely wife and muse Clotilde. This is where he painted in his spacious, lovely studio. Imagine the great painter here with his wife and 3 lovely children. And the gardens!

 

 

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Joaquin and Clotilde make for a truly handsome couple. Judging by their portraits, they seem to be so much in love! There is a sala exclusively for Clotilde. The Spanish Master was truly inspired to paint this lovely sitter! And their children….. my favorite is Sorolla’s painting of Clotilde and the baby. So much love and warmth there. . . . . in an expanse of white blanket!

 

 

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Have you ever been to a house with so much good vibes? For a Spanish villa this size, it’s amazing how all those positive vibes of love and adoration seem to be in the air all throughout the Casa!

 

 

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If you’re planning to visit, bring a book to read in the lovely garden. It’s not big, but I absolutely enjoyed the villa’s tiny but well-appointed garden. Hard to believe it’s just off a busy street in the city. Come to think of it, you may enjoy the garden without even paying the €3. The admission fee is for viewing the artworks inside the lovely villa. But please don’t scrimp on this one. When you come out of the villa after viewing Sorolla’s paintings and appreciating the beauty of his former art studio and residence, you’d actually be feeling good. There is something so “positive” inside that house that is worth more than the measly fee you paid.

 

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It was the day before my homeward journey. Weather forecast is cloudy, rainy day. So I made up my mind to stay home and start packing. Alas, the sun’s out by noontime! Packing can wait. And my itchy feet won’t.

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While in line to enter one of the smaller museums in Madrid, I met this French mom and daughter tandem who told me about their trip to this university town. Alcala de Henares, just a half hour €3.20 trip by Cercanias train from Madrid’s Atocha Renfe Station. I love university towns! It also happens to be the birthplace of Miguel Cervantes of the Don Quixote fame. That’s it. I must go.

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Glad I had a hearty breakfast. Lunch can wait. After all, this is Spain! When I got to Atocha Renfe Station, the train to Alcala is scheduled to leave in 5 minutes. I was fidgety as the lady before me couldn’t make up her mind. I made it with a minute to go. This is getting to be a habit! After a few stops, we reached the university town where Miguel Cervantes was born. Just a 10 minute walk from the train station to Plaza Cervantes.

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It’s a lovely plaza. In the middle is a bronze statue of the town’s favorite son and a kiosk with intricate ironworks. Around the plaza are old brick buildings and churches with spires now serving as havens for resident storks. I sat on a bench and took pleasure just watching the storks going about their business in their “residential nests” and flitting from one rooftop or spire to the next. It’s a community of storks here in Alcala de Henares!

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From the Plaza, I walked along Calle Mayor towards Casa Cervantes where the famous Don Quixote author lived. It’s a beautiful house, well-preserved with many interesting memorabilia. And it’s free! The bronze statues of Don Quixote and Sancho Panza seated on a bench right in front of the house was a hit with tourists.

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All around, it’s as if Cervantes still lives among the young population of university students. Young men and women manning tourist bureaus, souvenir shops, coffee bars, theaters. And the storks! Just look up and you’re bound to find their nests on rooftops and church spires. The Archbishop’s Palace is a favorite among these resident storks and it’s a challenge to find them in between the gargoyles!

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It was an afternoon well-spent in Alcala de Henares. And guess what….. I took the train ticket- dispensing machine at the station with a minute to go!

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I only meant to walk off all those chocolate bars I ate. Perhaps even contemplate a little after visiting a convent. No camera strung around my neck. Today I’m a local enjoying Madrid’s gardens and parks. I tried talking to Siri but she just kept misunderstanding every word I said. I finally gave up.

 

 

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From Atocha Station, I crossed the street towards Prado. As I passed the Botanical Garden, I glimpsed tulips in lively colors and knew I couldn’t skip a visit here. Yellow, deep red, pink, even purple! From the flower gardens to the forest of trees surrounding a pond, the tranquility of spending a good hour here is just what I need. I only wish I brought my book!

 

 

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Siri, who couldn’t understand a word of what I’m saying 😄 proved handy as I snapped photos with my iPhone cam. From the Botanical Garden, I strolled towards the Iglesia de San Jeronimo. A lovely church especially at night when it is illuminated as a perfect background to the Prado Museum. Turning right as I passed the church, I crossed the street to enter Parque de Retiro. This park is more easily accessed from the Metro Line 2 (Red) Retiro Station, but if you’re guilty over some chocolate pleasures lately, it’s a better, longer stroll from this gate towards the metro station.

 

 

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Rather than walk straight towards the boating lake, I strolled off towards Palacio Cristal. There is a smaller, charming pond here complete with geese hungry for potato chips and cheese curls. I saw some tourists feeding them such and I can’t say that’s good for these geese. With the same iPhone cam, I took a video of a street artist whose music is so apt for a lazy afternoon like now.

 

 

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Finally, I passed the boating lake till I reached the Retiro Station for my metro ride home. But not without stopping for a snapshot of Plaza de la Independencia and Puerta de Alcala. Not the best shot as it is against the light. But who’s complaining? Siri was such a lovely companion today. Esta bien!

 

 

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I only meant to walk off all those chocolate bars I ate. Perhaps even contemplate a little after visiting a convent. No camera strung around my neck. Today I’m a local enjoying Madrid’s gardens and parks. I tried talking to Siri but she just kept misunderstanding every word I said. I finally gave up.

 

 

20120502-204055.jpg

 

 

From Atocha Station, I crossed the street towards Prado. As I passed the Botanical Garden, I glimpsed tulips in lively colors and knew I couldn’t skip a visit here. Yellow, deep red, pink, even purple! From the flower gardens to the forest of trees surrounding a pond, the tranquility of spending a good hour here is just what I need. I only wish I brought my book!

 

 

20120502-205812.jpg

 

 

Siri, who couldn’t understand a word of what I’m saying 😄 proved handy as I snapped photos with my iPhone cam. From the Botanical Garden, I strolled towards the Iglesia de San Jeronimo. A lovely church especially at night when it is illuminated as a perfect background to the Prado Museum. Turning right as I passed the church, I crossed the street to enter Parque de Retiro. This park is more easily accessed from the Metro Line 2 (Red) Retiro Station, but if you’re guilty over some chocolate pleasures lately, it’s a better, longer stroll from this gate towards the metro station.

 

 

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Rather than walk straight towards the boating lake, I strolled off towards Palacio Cristal. There is a smaller, charming pond here complete with geese hungry for potato chips and cheese curls. I saw some tourists feeding them such and I can’t say that’s good for these geese. With the same iPhone cam, I took a video of a street artist whose music is so apt for a lazy afternoon like now.

 

 

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Finally, I passed the boating lake till I reached the Retiro Station for my metro ride home. But not without stopping for a snapshot of Plaza de la Independencia and Puerta de Alcala. Not the best shot as it is against the light. But who’s complaining? Siri was such a lovely companion today. Esta bien!

 

 

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If you can enjoy Madrid without shelling a euro, why ever NOT? This blog will hopefully guide you to enjoy Madrid without shelling a euro.

 

 

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My best freebie experience in Madrid is my visit to the Senado. I sent an email requesting permission to view Juan Luna’s “Battle of Lepanto”. My blog on this adventure speaks of my Filipino pride. Juan Luna has that effect on us.

 

 

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From the Senado, you can switch to that most remarkable Spanish Master whose art evolved through the years. Take the Metro to Principe Pio. Off the beaten path, but your interest would peak just knowing that Goya is buried here in Ermita de San Antonio off Paseo de Florida. Headless. His frescoes on the dome is Madrid’s mini- Sistine Chapel. Do check out my blog on this Goya adventure.

 

 

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Need some air? Have a small picnic at the Parque de Retiro. Off the Retiro Station, have a glimpse of Plaza de la Independencia before strolling off to the Park. It is a huge park. I easily spent 2 hours walking, sitting, reading here. I wished I brought a sandwich and a thermo jug of good brew. Perhaps next time.

 

 

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Luna and Goya. Then a relaxing afternoon and picnic at the Retiro Park. Not bad. It doesn’t end there. More freebies in store for you. 😊By 5pm, start moving your ass to get back on the metro for a ride to Banco de España from where you can begin your paseo along Paseo del Prado. Prado Museum is free from 6 pm onwards. On the other hand —- just a few hundred meters away —- the Museo del Reina Sofia is free from 7pm till closing time at 9pm. I would suggest you don’t view the exhibits in one go. After all, it’s free so what’s the rush? Just make sure you don’t go on those days the museums are closed. But if you only have a day and want to enjoy these freebies, you’d be fine restricting yourself to the Prado. Stay till closing time to leisurely view the works of art of the Spanish Masters.

 

 

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Have another day to spend without spending? Well, you can always go back to Museo de Reina Sofia (6-8pm) or there’s Plaza Mayor, Puerta del Sol and the Cathedral of Almudena. The last 3 make for a great photowalk. Don’t forget to visit the crypt beside the Almudena Church! And if there’s still time, go sit in any of the parks near Almudena Church and Palacio Real. Sabatini Garden and Plaza del Oriente invite you to simply relax and catch your breath while enjoying great views. If you’re lucky, you can even witness the changing of the guards. Or the changing of the royal horses. Both are great spectacles!


What’s all the hype?

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It’s really just a pedestrian path bordered by 2 narrow streets. One attraction is the market in La Boqueria. A convent used to stand on this site. Now it is a busy market bursting with camera-toting tourists snapping photos of fruits, vegetables, Jamon y Quezos and such stuff in lively colors. There are dining places within the market. Not the most comfortable, if you ask me. But we felt compelled to do this touristy thing so we can strike it off our list of must-do’s and must-experience. For the rather steep price we paid, I would rather eat someplace cleaner. 😒

 

 

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Fruits. We found many exotic fruits here, including mangoes and pineapples. My niece bought a pack for us to eat as appetizers while waiting for our paella, pulpo ala gallego, boquerones, and patatas bravas. We ate with our bags on our laps, while listening to an altercation 2 tables away. The diners there were complaining about their “cuenta” or bill. So much for “ambience” dining here where floors are as dirty as can be.

 

 

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Thick with tourists, we easily found tables here. Not as many tourists eat here, I guess. After all, you can have your fill ordering bocadillos while walking along Las Ramblas. This weekend was particularly crowded as even local tourists are here to add numbers. The red, blue and green “hop on, hop off” buses are almost always full. We decided to do the whole route for the red and blue tourist buses rather than hopping off every so often. Besides, not too many sites invited our attention outside of the Gaudi stuff. For sure though, those buses unloaded many tourists here in Las Ramblas. And many stayed till nightfall. The noise in the nearby hotels must be unbearable.

 

 

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Just like back in Madrid, there were policemen spread around the area. This is a haven for pickpockets and scam artists after all. Am not surprised. Every 3-4 persons I met along the path walking from Catalunya all the way to Licieu needed no intro as tourists given their cameras, belt bags and Barcelona maps. My advice? Be sure you have decided where to go before stepping out of your hotel. Commit the directions on the map to memory. Or take a photo with your phone cam. Checking your cellphone invites less attention than spreading a map in the middle of a street. Remember that they don’t just pick pockets here. They can snatch your bags too. I should know. A friend of mine lost a bag containing cash, passport and travel documents here some 10 years ago. Hard lesson to learn.

 

 

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Gaudi. When he graduated from Architecture School, the school director said he’s either a fool or a genius. We all know now how he turned out.

 

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Sagrada Familia is in everyone’s list when visiting Barcelona. Gaudi’s spirituality, religiosity and love for the environment manifest in all his works. His understanding of nature and how he integrated it into his art or his architecture is simply beyond imagination. Unfortunately, Gaudi never taught nor left any written documents of his work.

 

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Inside the Sagrada Familia, one senses Gaudi’s religiosity most profoundly. While his work remains unfinished to this day, this genius spent over 40 years on the Sagrada Familia until his tragic death in 1926. From a well-groomed “man-about-town” given to gourmet tastes, Gaudi’s last few years were marked by frugality. When he was accidentally hit by a tram while crossing a street and lost consciousness, he was mistaken for a beggar and was not given immediate medical attention. Such a sad ending for a man whose works now give Barcelona unparalleled pride.

 

 

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And the details. All of 18 towers representing the 12 apostles, 4 evangelists, Virgin Mary and Jesus Christ. The Nativity facade and all its statues. Inspired by the organic shapes of nature, the interiors integrated Gaudi’s architecture with other crafts where he gained skills like ceramics and stained glass. This modernist style also finds expression in Casa Battló, La Pedrera and Park Guell, to name a few.

 

 

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Gaudi’s style is so distinct, so seemingly unrestricted to a point of flamboyance. You don’t need a tour guide to spot a Gaudi when walking the streets of Barcelona. Casa Batlló is a prime example of Gaudi’s art. The “wavy” structures, ceramic-filled towers, stained glass windows framed by intricately-designed ironworks.. For sure, Gaudi raised a lot of eyebrows during his time!

 

 

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And then there’s Park Güell. Like a fantasy land with all those vibrant colors! My only regret when I visited the park was that I didn’t go much earlier. The crowd was so thick it diminishes one’s delight over this lovely park. Nearly all benches were taken. The grand staircase is so thick with tourists snapping photos of the dragon which has since become a Barcelona landmark.

 

 

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There’s so much more of Gaudi in Barcelona. But be warned. There are long lines. I strongly advise you go early to the Park one morning. Line up early for either Casa Battlló or La Pedrera the next morn. You can fill up the remainder of each day with “non-Gaudi” activities such as Las Ramblas, La Boqueria, Port Véll, Fundacio Joan Miro, Olympic Site, etc.