Category: Philippine Travels

Juan Luna Shrine: So, who shot the Patriot’s wife?

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August 9, 2011

How much do we know of the Luna brothers? Honestly? I simply know one is a painter, the other a General. Both are patriots. And both are friends and contemporaries of Dr. Jose P. Rizal. Many of us would think that knowledge is enough. Toinks!

Juan Luna Shrine in Badoc, Ilocos Norte

On our way from Laoag to Vigan, we passed Badoc, Ilocos Norte. This is the last town of Ilocos Norte. And this is the birthplace of the Luna brothers. The Juan Luna Shrine can be found here — a building made of brick housing the memorabilia and paintings of this patriotic, and very controversial painter.

Death of Cleopatra (Museo del Prado @Madrid)

Spolarium (now on display @National Museum of the Philippines)

Luna killed his wife and mother-in-law because of

jealousy.

So goes the story. Makes for a great headline.

The patriot who painted such classics and award-winning Spoliarium (Gold Medal, 1884, now on display at the National Museum of the Philippines), Death of Cleopatra (Silver Medal, 1881, Museo del Prado in Madrid), Parisian Life (another Silver Medal, 1889, GSIS Museum), Battle of Lepanto, Blood Compact (1886, Malacanang Palace), Una Bulakenya (1895, Malacanang Palace), among others. The patriot as a murderer? Says who?

Inside Juan Luna Shrine

The Tour Guide did not miss a beat telling and retelling this story. Sure, Juan Luna shot his mother-in-law and wife dead. We also just learned that he shot his brother-in-law Felix Pardo de Tavera too in the same incident, but this “lucky” fellow survived. Was it an accident or was this a crime of passion?

Most answers you’d find point to Juan Luna shooting his wife Paz in a fit of jealousy. The accused lover was a certain Monsieur Dussaq. Having settled in Paris after his marriage, I can only assume this Dussaq is one Frenchman. So, did Juan shoot his wife et al? All this after only 6 years of marriage. Our Ilocano Tour Guide has another version. Like Juan tried to force open the door to their home in Paris by shooting at the door knob, not knowing the mother-in-law was peeping through the keyhole with the wife right behind her. Quite a stretch………..if you ask me. But oh well, that’s the version. (*big yawn)

The couple had 2 children but one died in infancy. The surviving child, Andres, is also a painter and the architect who designed Arlegui House, the residence of ex-President Cory Aquino, and the San Vicente de Paul Church in San Marcelino Street. Many of his works were unfortunately destroyed during the Second World War.

Rizal as a Scribe? or a Sphinx?

Una Bulakenya (Used To Be On Display @Malacanang Palace, Now @National Art Gallery)

The Other Luna Brothers

Juan’s passion for the arts was influenced by his brother Manuel who was also a painter. A better one, if we were to believe Dr. Jose Rizal. From Badoc, Ilocos Norte, the Luna family moved to Manila where the brothers studied. Manuel and Juan traveled together to Spain where Juan had more art (painting) lessons while Manuel ventured into music and later claimed fame as a violinist.

When Juan was arrested for shooting his wife and later acquitted (on grounds of insanity), it was Antonio (yes, General Antonio Luna) who accompanied him from Paris to Madrid and finally to Manila. Both brothers were arrested for rebellion charges, and later released. Juan headed back to Spain, while Antonio remained and was later killed by the Kawit Batallion (another controversial story involving Emilio Aguinaldo, but that’s another story).

One unfinished, intriguing story involves the painting “Una Bulaquena” or Woman from Bulacan. The painting was inspired by a woman who was allegedly the one great love of Antonio Luna, though the other version cites Juan having courted her after losing/shooting Paz. A case of sibling rivalry? Who knows?

This photo shows how tall or short Rizal was..........

Juan Luna’s Distinguished Models

Not many of us know that Dr. Rizal actually posed as Datu Sikatuna in Juan Luna’s “Blood Compact”. In his silver award-winning painting “Death of Cleopatra”, our national hero actually posed in earlier sittings as a scribe complete with a headdress , making him look like a sphinx. Juan Luna himself posed as Marc Anthony in the same painting. Somehow, I can imagine how these men must have enjoyed all these sittings, horsing around, posing in costumes, etc.

The original Parisian Life painting used to hang here in Bahay Nakpil-Bautista in Quiapo

Then of course everybody knows Dr. Rizal was one of the 3 models in the GSIS-acquired “Parisian Life”. The other 2 gentlemen in the painting were Juan Luna himself and Ariston Bautista, in whose house this same painting hung for years. Errr, that is yet another story again.

But these men were not just models. They were our heroes. Patriots. Gentlemen-friends, if you may. Their love of country, passion for the arts and literature, intellect, perhaps even love of women must have bound them like blood brothers in a place far away from home and family, in an era marked by secret alliances and trysts, murder and heroism.

C’est la vie………..

Inside the Shrine @Badoc, Ilocos Norte

Exit Through The Backyard: More Paintings (Reproductions)

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Tags: Antonio Luna, Badoc, Battle of Lepanto, Blood Compact, Death Of Cleopatra, Heritage Site, Ilocos, Ilocos Norte, Juan Luna, Parisian Life, Paz Pardo de Tavera, Philippine Heroes, Spolarium, Una Bulaquena

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Silangan Gardens and Pinto Art Museum

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 7 Comments

August 5, 2011

Just in the suburbs. This oasis of peace and quiet is truly an art haven. As my friend puts it, this is our very own MOMA (Museum of Modern Art). A not-to-be-missed destination. You don’t even have to be an art lover to enjoy this place. But there is no guarantee you won’t end up as one by the time you’re done.

Despite the humidity, the place offers a pitstop for tired bodies, restless minds and depressed spirits. Strolling around the gardens aimlessly, we soon learned why this place has become famous for pre-nuptial photo shoots. It is most certainly a haven of creativity. And I am just talking about the gardens here. Wait till you go through the Museum proper, where I advise you to go slow to digest every ounce of art and culture.

The Pinto Art Museum and Silangan Gardens is right inside Grandheights Subdivision in Antipolo City. I’m lousy with directions so if you plan to visit the place, give them a call at (+632) 703-4453 or (+63917) 608-6754) to ask for directions. There is much to see here. And it is not difficult to wander aimlessly and view the collections of noted neurologist and art patron Dr. Joven Cuanang. We were lucky to find the good doctor in his residence right within the gallery compound when we visited. He was most kind and even eagerly showed us around the many items of art inside his residence hemmed in by the lovely gardens.

How To Say “Ma.wa.lang.Ga.lang. Po.

It is of natural consequence that one views these collections with a sense of pride over Pinoy ingenuity and artistry. Filipino artists, both famous and promising, found a home here. Dr. Cuanang talks about his collections like a father would lovingly and proudly talk about his children. Like all his sentiments and emotional attachments wrap each piece of art and collection. We were not surprised to learn that the good doctor has not parted with ANY piece of art that he has acquired through the years. Each of these acquisitions hangs proudly on the Museum walls in this architectural complex designed by no less than artist Antonio Leano. The high ceilings , white stone walls , open porches and sprawling gardens all make for a very colonial/Mexican architecture. As one weaves from hall to hall to view the exhibits, there is an element of unhurriedness and pleasure as one’s aesthetic senses are stirred. Surely, this place is a labor of love!

Thanks to Dr. Cuanang and his vision and advocacy, we are able to enjoy our own MOMA within the City.

PS. We visited again on April 5, 2018 and found even more improvements, including its Cafe Rizal. Met Dr. Cuanang once more and felt jealous that this man lives within the Museum grounds and only had to step out and literally stroll around the gardens, visit the galleries and then stop for a drink in the cafe. What a great life!

https://youtu.be/qfbrgcvIcho

Tags: Antipolo, Dr. Joven Cuanang, Philippine Art, Philippines, Pinto Art Museum, Silangan Gardens

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My 7 Links: Life Is A Celebration

Filed under: Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 11 Comments

July 16, 2011

The same blogger who added me among the Pinoy Travel Bloggers also nominated me to participate in My 7 Links Project . This brilliant project by Tripbase intends “to unite bloggers from all sectors to share lessons learned and create a bank of long but not forgotten blog posts that deserve to see the light of day again”. Thank you Marky Ramone Go of Nomadic Experiences for the nomination.

MY MOST BEAUTIFUL POST: Reunion with the Sea Pets of Donsol

Not Just the Whale Sharks, There’s the Shrimp Fishermen of Donsol Too!

It was by far my most awesome animal experience. One adventure for the books. Very first time in late February 2011 and the next one last May. This 2nd time around, with family. Beautiful animals. Beautiful experience. Beautiful family bonding time which lasted a week, beginning with this trip to Donsol. The adventure is forever inked in our memories. And that’s what makes it all the more beautiful. And if anyone’s about to complain over the many face photos you find in this blog……..eat your heart out! We love being FAMILY 😉

MY MOST CONTROVERSIAL POST: Las Casas Filipinas de Acuzar

Luksong Baka @Ciudad Acuzar

This beats many a collector’s dream. I am not sure whether to thank the collector, to envy him, to condemn him or what.

Uprooted from various areas within the country were a small chapel, the entire turn of the century school building, and many ancestral houses to form part of the new “old town” representing Mr. Acuzar’s collections. This development inevitably invited many critics to scream foul, asserting that these historical landmarks are best left and preserved wherever they were. So much furor for the transfer of all these heritage structures to satisfy one man’s dream collection! At the same time, there were also those who hail the transfer of all these ancestral and historical structures to one area with a good promise that the owner/collector will preserve the structures. Though a private collection and property, “Ciudad de Acuzar” is bound to attract a lot of attention, and likely curious visitors.

MY MOST HELPFUL POST: Eating Around the Philippines

I have joined, and now moderate, a community of travel bloggers from all over the world. Judging by the blogs written about the Philippines, I felt compelled to jot down this “food guide” to introduce our local delicacies. What it accomplished is to get more of my friends from TravelBlog to visit the country and feast on our local cuisine especially the fruits. Unexpectedly, I also received a lot of mail from Filipino readers whose appetites and happy childhood memories were stirred just reading this blog.

A POST WHOSE SUCCESS SURPRISED ME: Konya: Mevlana and the Center of Sufism

I knew nothing about Sufism till a few months before this trip. The mystique of the dance by the Whirling Dervishes held nothing for me. I may have read , even watched docu-films about them, but none registered. The dance is called “Sema” which has formed part of Turkish culture, custom and history. Sema represents the mystical journey of man’s spiritual ascent by way of maximum and unlimited tolerance, love without regard for race, color or creed. A kind of spiritual maturity entailing acceptance of ALL religious beliefs. Now, wouldn’t that philosophy bring peace to our world? For sure, this journey gave me a newfound tolerance for other religious philosophies.

This post was hailed by TravelBlog as “Blog of the Year 2009” for Middle East (Writing Category).

A POST THAT I FELT DIDN’T GET THE ATTENTION IT DESERVED: When Every Prayer Bead Counts in Israel

At the time I visited Israel in 1996, I was not a very spiritual person. Perhaps I am still not. But I know that after this visit, I came home a changed person. Still a ‘work in progress’. But one’s got to try.

I have said rosaries every now and then before this trip, and I say them almost daily now. And this time, I ‘feel’ every passion in each rosary bead. Covering Israel is very much like saying the rosary every hour every day. The passion of Christ in each and every rosary bead is most felt in this Holy Land. Heretofore I would recite the rosary in an almost mechanical fashion. But now, I can picture the very image of each and every mystery and feel the presence of our Saviour in a most spiritual way. So YES, this blog deserves more attention. If not from you, from ME — as a reminder of the transformation I went through back then.

MY MOST POPULAR POST: Craving For Bicolano Food?

Care for SILI SHAKE?

I do not know if my “reputation” precedes me. I love food. I love dining out. I grew up with a good appreciation that my good behavior will be rewarded with a nice “edible” treat.

And so this blog tops the list in my wordpress blogsite. My Travelblog Top Post is obviously about food adventure in some resort town too. So I am somehow getting this message that I should soon graduate into food blogging. But then again, all my travels are never complete without the food adventures. So whether you like it or not, I’d stick to travel blogging. 🙂

THE POST THAT I AM MOST PROUD OF : Same Places Through The Years

This is about my first solo adventure and my very first trip to Europe. Nerves strung high, anxieties overflowing, I made it to Bradford, England without a hitch. From there, I wasted no weekend at the height of winter to visit other places then so alien to my eyes and young traveler’s mind. Little did I know that this journey would stir that wanderlust and forever link me to the rest of the world.

This blog was also voted one of TravelBlog’s Best Blog For 2010 in both the Europe writing and the Europe photography sections. It also earned for me the Hall of Fame Award in TravelBlog, after more than 2 years of blogging.

Now, it’s my turn to nominate 5 other travel bloggers for this My 7 Links Project. Here goes:

The Pinay Solo Backpacker She has no home, sweet home, just pure enjoyment of the world and culture. Nobody to look after her during her trip, nobody that will put barriers to the destinations she is willing to see… Gail is an icon in the blogosphere. Never afraid to go, wherever her heart takes her.

Flipnomad His way of traveling kept on changing, from going to the usual resorts to going to nearby provinces to backpacking. All these opened his eyes to a lot of other cultures and gave him a chance to meet interesting people that have interesting views in life. One trip he made which I plan to do is the one month El Nido trip. What bliss!

The Lost Boy Lloyd A young blogger showing so much promise. Lloyd looks forward to weekends and school breaks to do more traveling. A prolific blogger, and fast gaining a following from both young and old folks like me.

Philippine Travelogue Another young blogger offering excellent travel tips on where to go, what to do, how to enjoy. Met Brenna by accident in Chinatown, spotted her through the many blogs she’s done which I have read. Very young indeed, and very talented.

Lakwatsero Another icon in the blogosphere. Angel treks, he climbs, he swims, he dives, he photographs, he writes, and he writes well! Been following his blogs and enjoying them thoroughly. The narratives and photographs will keep you entertained, and appropriately educated/informed.

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Just How Do You Eat Alagao?

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 20 Comments

July 5, 2011

Yes, Alagao. I hail from the province and what I know of alagao is that it has a “hairy” leaf. Yes, H.A.I.R.Y. But it is one hell of a versatile leaf. Just like the guava leaves, they can be used to wash wounds or applied to open cuts. Whenever we have indigestion or suffering from gas pains, our elders would come up with this concoction and force us to drink the alagao tea, if you can call it that. Gosh, I even remember our quack doctor with some cut up alagao leaf or two on his temples to cure his headache!

As kids, we would play-cook and readily discard the alagao leaves among our “ingredients” for whatever it was we are boiling or concocting. That’s because we didn’t like the “felt” texture of the leaf. Hairy has no room in our kids’ menu back then. But in this part of Antipolo, alagao takes centerstage in this lovely lunch buffet. Was I in for a pleasant surprise!

Signature Appetizer Is Alagao Leaves With Spices & Other Fillings

It was past my lunchtime when we reached Crescent Moon Cafe. I do not know how long it has been in business in this corner in Antipolo, Rizal, but it sure is a well-kept secret. It was a very humid day, and we have just visited the Angono-Binangonan Petroglyphs at high noon! Hungry, I was quite ready to eat a cow by the time we reached this cafe and its lovely garden and koi ponds.

Choose your fillings, then wrap and roll!

As its signature appetizers, one makes his own “rolls” using an alagao leaf and stuffing it with various spices. There’s fried garlic, minced onions, green chili for the brave ones, alamang fried to a crisp, cut up basil leaves, cubed mangoes, ginger and some nuts. You choose your fillings, lay them on the leaf, smear it with some sweet dark sauce, and then wrap the leaf like you would a lumpia. Voila! The sweet, salty, sour and spicy all compete for attention and make out a sensation that is not quite the same as any other. What do you know, I actually like it!

Owned by Lanelle Abueva-Fernando, niece of National Artist Napoleon Abueva and daughter of former UP President Jose Abueva, the place has no pretentions. I understand there is really no set menu here, but the signature alagao appetizer is a mainstay. For this lunch , we had soup, a steamed fish, some crispy noodles with vegetable curry toppings, a chicken dish which I ignored (not because it wasn’t good, but a chicken is a chicken is a chicken if you know what I mean), and another vegetable dish. Me? I focused on the alagao rolls, steamed fish and the curried vegetables with crispy noodles. And for dessert? We had suman served with a quarter of a mango. I could do with another quarter, actually, but for P35o for a set lunch, I should not be complaining. I like their suman. No need for sugar or anything else. The suman, by itself, is complete in its sweetness and creaminess. You can buy them too as take-home pasalubong for P275 a bundle.

No, It's Not Soup. It's The Topping for the Crispy Noodles.

Done with lunch, one can stroll around the garden and pond. On a hot day, this place offers a refreshing break. The trees all around make it tolerable despite the humidity. But it is not conducive for any shopping. Lanelle Abueva-Fernando’s pottery is right within the compound and her works are on display and available for sale. There were nice teapots and matching teacups, serving plates , cups and saucers, jars, sugar and creamer sets, etc. By the time we were done with lunch, all I wanted to do was to get back to the airconditioned vehicle. You see, Crescent Moon Cafe is NOT airconditioned. You can do away with that setup in Tagaytay (like in Sonya’s Garden) but not so here in Antipolo. Or maybe it was simply a hot humid day when we visited. Struggling to keep my eyelids from drooping shut, I decided to enjoy the comforts of airconditioning in the vehicle.

Crescent Moon Cafe in Antipolo City

It looks cool. Temp 38C

By the way, make sure you don’t come on a Sunday or Monday when Crescent Moon Cafe is closed. And do remember that it is only open for lunch. For directions, you may call +632 630-5854 . But allow me to try. 😉 If you are coming from Sumulong Highway, go straight past the Ynares Rotunda and Unciano Hospital. You’ll soon find Flying V gasoline station which is on the left side of a three forked intersection. Take the rightmost road and drive past a Shell station, then Milagrosa Subdivision. A few meters past the subdivision, you’ll see the Crescent Moon signboard. Take that road, and enter the Crescent Moon compound on the left side of the road. The exact address is Sapang Buho, Ascencion road. Barangay Dalig, Antipolo City.

And don’t be fooled. There is still a tree-lined walkway towards the Cafe. You’d walk this path from the street to get inside. It’s a pleasant walk.

The Art of Pottery

Entrance to Crescent Moon Cafe

This May Help Get You There 😉

When it comes to the subject of food, I readily go overboard. I have earlier submitted my entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival for the month of July 2011 with the theme “Awesome Food Experience While Traveling” hosted by Anton Diaz of Our Awesome Planet. But hey, what’s wrong with a 2nd entry? There is always room for good food, right?

Tags: alagao, alagao leaves, Antipolo, crescent moon cafe

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Of Balaw Balaw and the Higantes Festival of Angono, Rizal

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 9 Comments

Taka or Papier Mache Masks

It wasn’t my first time in Angono’s Balaw Balaw Restaurant. And even before my first visit, I have heard enough about the exotic cuisine offered in this specialty restaurant cum art gallery. Artist Perdigon Vocalan has long gone; but his wife carries on the tradition so to speak. Angono is famous for its artists and Balaw Balaw seems to have lured many of them to this dining place for both eats and art talk. Around 100 of Perdigon Vocalan’s paintings and those of other folk artists are displayed in the 2nd floor Museum above the specialty restaurant along with various sculptures representing the rich cultural heritage and folklore of Angono, Rizal.

Balaw Balaw Specialty Restaurant in Angono, Rizal

Inside Balaw Balaw Specialty Restaurant

Call It A Food Adventure

It was too early for the dreaded “sawa” and “bayawak” dishes. That was some relief. 🙂 I may be adventurous with food but I will most definitely have second thoughts about putting that stuff into my mouth. Instead, we partook of the “maruya” — fried banana cooked with some flour and smothered with sugar. This I like. The ginger tea that went with it was a perfect match. Reminded me of those afternoon snacks served by my grandmother back when tea was served in a bowl rather than an earless mug or tea cup.

The place is called “Balaw Balaw” after that very Tagalog side serving cum appetizer or sauce made from “alamang” mixed with rice and some herb called “angkak” to give it a reddish coloring. Fermented for some 3 days, this side serving goes well wrapped in “mustasa” or mustard leaves, and eaten with anything grilled like fish or meat. Some actually use it like one would use “patis” or fish sauce with their “sinigang” or sour broth.

Would you believe there are 12 kinds of sinigang in this food establishment? I do remember having tried in the past this sinigang dish with fish native to Angono-Binangonan-Baras-Tanay area. Sinigang na kanduli is good. I also liked the grilled hito or catfish. And the fried dalag with its yummy roe! Although they serve it, this place entices you to be more adventurous outside of the usual kare-kare, kaldereta, and ihaw-ihaw. Not to forget, there is also the Fried Itik — the tagalog version of the famous Peking Duck. And there’s Minaluto, which is really like a ‘binalot’ plus tons more. Likewise wrapped in banana leaves, then steamed, this makes for a meal by itself. So, what are you guys having? As for me, I’m quite content with the maruya, ginger tea, and an hour’s look-see around the 2nd floor Art Gallery and the 3rd floor craftshop for the “taka”.

The Last Supper

The Art Capital of the Philippines?

Angono boasts of 2 National Artists: the late muralist Botong Francisco and the musician Maestro Lucio San Pedro. Many of the Angono artists, including Perdigon Vocalan, were influenced by the late Carlos “Botong” Francisco who died in 1968. On the other hand, the Angono National Symphonic Band exists, though not too many heard of it. Maestro San Pedro inspired many musical talents through his guidance of this band. His most famous musical piece is “Sa Ugoy ng Duyan”, immortalized in a woodcarving or wood sculpture to be found in this Art Gallery . San Pedro passed away in 2002, almost on the same date as Botong Francisco.

"Sa Ugoy Ng Duyan"

Art of Taka (Papier Mache)

Soon after our mid-snack of maruya, we sat for a few more minutes to watch how “taka” is made. Frankly, it is your usual papier mache but instead of vases, bowls, jars, or picture frames, this Angono art flourished to a form that the Higantes Festival of Angono is now celebrated every November 23rd. The “Higantes” are actually giant caricatures made of papier mache. Folklore has it that the caricatures are those of the Spanish landlord (and his family) for lands tilled by Angono locals. This explains the sharp features in the “higantes” masks and dolls, and the standard hands-on-the-hips representations crafted by the Angono folks. It is said that in a way, the art of mask-making was an expression of how locals view their “masters” or landlords. This is the same Spanish landlord and his family who banned all fiestas in the area except for the Feast Day of San Clemente every November 23. Folklore has it that the Spanish landlord thought too many fiestas or celebrations are wasteful. For this reason, the natives found a way to ventilate their protest every November 23 through these taka effigies which are paraded around town, and which fiestas culminate in a fluvial procession on the waters of Laguna de Bay.

I have never been to its fiesta , but it should be interesting to witness one this coming November 23. Amazing how local folks turned papier mache into an art in this neck of the woods. The papier mache masks certainly bear a resemblance to long-ago mestizo landlords. The arrogant placement of the hands on the hips is the perfect give away.

Photo Sourced From The Web

So , do we have a date this November 23rd? Great. And while we await that date, how about we refresh our memory of this long-ago song composed by National Artist San Pedro with lyrics from Levi Celerio? Take time to picture what was on the artists’ minds when they crafted this lovely song. 🙂

Sana’y di nagmaliw ang dati kong araw
Nang munti pang bata sa piling ni nanay
Nais kong maulit ang awit ni inang mahal
Awit ng pag-ibig habang ako’y nasa duyan

Refrain:
Sa aking pagtulog na labis ang himbing
Ang bantay ko’y tala, ang tanod ko’y bituin
Sa piling ni nanay, langit ay buhay
Puso kong may dusa sabik sa ugoy ng duyan

Sana’y di nagmaliw ang dati kong araw
Nang munti pang bata sa piling ni nanay
Nais kong maulit ang awit ni inang mahal
Awit ng pag-ibig habang ako’y nasa duyan

Sa aking pagtulog na labis ang himbing
Ang bantay ko’y tala, ang tanod ko’y bituin
Sa piling ni nanay, langit ay buhay
Puso kong may dusa sabik sa ugoy ng duyan

Nais kong matulog sa dating duyan ko, inay
Oh! inay

Tags: Angono, Balaw Balaw, Binangonan, Higantes Festival, Petroglyphs, Philippine Festivals, Taka

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Going SILLY Over SILI SHAKE!

Filed under: Food Trip, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 11 Comments

July 3, 2011

I have a soft spot for Bicol. And I have a big appetite for Bicol dishes. Oh, not just dishes. Of late, I have discovered and loved their exotic shakes and ice cream! (Ice Cream Photo Borrowed From FlipNomad)

Sili Ice Cream @1st Colonial Grill

SILI Rocks

We found this cozy place called Bicol Blends Cafe in Daraga , Albay — right along the Rizal Road connecting Legazpi City to Daraga all the way to our previous destination, Donsol. First time we chanced upon it, we were actually at 1st Colonial Grill which is right beside this cafe. Now, 1st Colonial Grill was what brought us to this neck of the woods. The Tinapa Rice and Buko Chopsuey there are good reasons for a visit. Over and above that, we were longing to try that famous SILI ice cream. SILI???? Yes, sili as in chilis as in peppers as in HOT and SPICY.

Tinapa Rice @1st Colonial Grill

It didn’t look threatening at all. In fact, it can pass for strawberry ice cream at first glance. But wait till you taste the last drop. The spice kicks in. Your tongue feels the “burn”, and so does your palate as you finish up with that last lick. So be sure to have a tall glass of water at arm’s reach. But wait, there’s more than just the SILI ice cream here. Right beside 1st Colonial Grill is a coffee shop cum pastry shop owned by the same family. Bicol Blends Cafe soon took over as our favorite coffee place in Bicol for its exotic pastry items and even more exotic shakes.

The Deceptive Sili Shake @Bicol Blends Cafe

There is the pili shake. And the sili shake. Just like the sili ice cream, the sili shake can be quite deceptive. It starts off like your typical, standard milk shake. But the finish! Oh, the finish…….will remind you to take your food “slowly” as our elders would often say when we were younger. Chew slowly. Drink. Don’t slurp. Savor every bite. Relish every sip. And give your taste buds the chance to discern the variety of flavors each food morsel offers!

And the baked stuff offered quite a variety. Pan de Bicol Express? This is a big pandesal stuffed with bicol express. Don’t be fooled by the “mini-pan” description. It is a big pandesal. Had it for breakfast along with my favorite brew. Whoa! Did that perk me up! Understatement of the year. I love the dough, just like the way I want my pandesal. But the filling shook me up crazy with all those spices so early in the morning. Besides, it takes an acquired taste to welcome coconut cream-based fillings at this early hour. I dare the brave ones to try it.

Pan de Bicol Express To Rev Up Ur Mornings@Bicol Blends Cafe

The second breakfast I had in Bicol Blends Cafe, I tried the Pili Bread. Now this one is as mild as seeing majestic Mount Mayon first hour of the morning. Pili nut abounds in Bicol and is a regular take-home or pasalubong item. I love it. I find it quite expensive but it is a nut truly our own, so flaunt it. Eat it. Buy it! Many modern and fusion restaurants in the area have actually found ways to get that nut into their Bicolano cuisine, accompanied by the unforgiving sili and drowned in the usual coconut cream. Mixed into their bread, or shaved like one would with almonds to garnish a pasta dish, the taste of this pili nut is never obscured by the other flavors.

A Milder Treat To Start The Morning: Pili Bread @Bicol Blends Cafe

Bicol Blends Cafe

If we were spending a few more mornings in this place, I would have tried their Laing Offerings. Perhaps next time? For sure, I will be making a visit to this place not just for my sili and pili fix, but also for the cozy ambience and wifi connection the place offers. Maybe I’d also try their Malunggay Ice Cream and Tinutong Ice Cream. All those crazy ice cream flavors! For your info, you can dine in either 1st Colonial or in Bicol Blends Cafe and order from the menu of either since both are owned by the same family. Nice 🙂

Craving for more Bicolano food? Check out this blog. More yummy photos too. Oh, take me back. Take me back!

More? Just click the link above for more bicol dishes.

This is my entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers’ Blog Carnival for July 2011 with the theme “Awesome Food Experience While Traveling In The Philippines” hosted by Anton Diaz . Bon apetit!

Tags: 1st Colonial Grill, Bicol, Bicol Blends Cafe, Food Trip, Pili Shake, Sili Ice Cream, Sili Shake

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Say Hello to ‘Mi Ultimo Adios’

Filed under: Don't Skip Manila!, Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 12 Comments

June 6, 2011

I wasn’t meaning to write about our national hero and join the PTB Blog Carnival , thinking I needed to clear my backlogs first. But as it turned out, a couple of friends from TravelBlog visited the Philippines and had an extra day to spend in Manila. Thought I’d give them the drill: Spanish-Philippines in the morning, Chinatown-Philippines for lunch, and Hollywood (American) cum “Urban/Modern” Philippines late afternoon till early evening. The “Philippines-Philippines” episode can wait till they get their walking feet to Bicol starting with an off-chance, late-in-the-season Butanding Interaction in Donsol, Sorsogon.

I enjoy meeting new friends. Jan and Polona are from Slovenia and belong to my other “community” at TravelBlog. Young, full of energy, and eager to know the Philippines . And I was just as eager to introduce our country, our culture to them. So we began the morning with a tour of Fort Santiago and a drive-through Intramuros. The latter deserves another leisurely afternoon.

Fort Santiago

There are heaps of good write-ups on Fort Santiago. And blogs matched with stunning photography of this “walled city”. I brought my rusty Point & Shoot Camera just so I can take souvenir shots with my young Slovenian friends. My young Slovenians surprisingly did their homework and knew enough about our national hero, Dr. Jose Rizal, and about his last days in Fort Santiago. No need for any history lessons. These travelers, as opposed to tourists, know their stuff. It was I who was sufficiently surprised. Inside the Rizal Shrine , they took their time reading “Mi Ultimo Adios”. I must confess I never went past the “Adios Patria Adorada, Region del Sol Quirida” stuff. 😦

Amazingly, there was a translation of Mi Ultimo Adios in other languages. Jan and Polona painstakingly read through some, especially the one translated in Czech. Even as translated, they were quite impressed with the many talents of our national hero. Having visited many other countries, they were pleased to find that our own is a man of peace. And not another military chief or warrior who liberated the country from oppressors. This gave another perspective of allowing one’s self to be impressed about the power of the pen. How a philosophy, an ideology can move people . How it can enlighten and liberate an entire race to think on its own. Of his many talents, Dr. Jose Rizal certainly used the power of the pen to give life to common sentiments heretofore repressed.

There are times when I feel sentimental and wax poetic. Moments when I find myself reading and taking pleasure in reading poems. No favorite poets for me. I read whatever takes my fancy. But “Mi Ultimo Adios” ? I never gave it a chance. I do not know why. Perhaps because it was part of the school curriculum and I associated it with the obligatory history lessons. Thanks to Jan and Polona, I rediscovered the beauty, the wisdom and the rhythmic beat of Rizal’s patriotism in this farewell poem.

“I die when I see the sky has unfurled its colors
And at last after a cloak of darkness announces the day;
If you need scarlet to tint your dawn,
Shed my blood, pour it as the moment comes,
And may it be gilded by a reflection of the heaven’s newly-born light.”

Shame on me. To have someone from a foreign land teach me a lesson on appreciation of one’s own. This stanza was nearly “alien” to me. As I said, I hardly went beyond the “Adios Patria Adorada” line. Yet Rizal’s passion and patriotism resonated with these lines of poetic candor.

“If upon my grave one day you see appear,
Amidst the dense grass, a simple humble flower,
Place it near your lips and my soul you’ll kiss,
And on my brow may I feel, under the cold tomb,
The gentle blow of your tenderness, the warmth of your breath.”

Lovely. Simply lovely. He may be a doctor of medicine. A hero. A painter. A sculptor. An engineer. And more. But in my book, he is a poet par excellance.

This is my entry to the PTB Blog Carnival celebrating Dr. Jose P. Rizal’s 150th birthday with the theme “Rizal and Travel”, hosted by Ivan Henares .

Tags: Fort Santiago, Intramuros, Manila, Philippines, Rizal, Rizal Shrine

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Typhoon Signal #2 @Camsur Water Complex in Naga

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 4 Comments

May 25, 2011

So, there’s a typhoon? I looked out the window of our hotel in Legazpi City and Mount Mayon beckoned in all her majesty. No hiding behind clouds. Sun’s up, and you can view the entire volcano. Pretty sight. It wasn’t even raining today! By the time we packed our bags to leave towards Naga , we made a mental note of returning to this hotel if we don’t find any decent lodgings in CWC or in Naga. I know, it is a good hour’s drive. But hey, we are on vacay! Surely, we can go back and forth wherever our hearts take us.

I grew frustrated trying to book a family trailer in Camsur Water Complex (CWC) in Pili near Naga City. I have heard so much about the place attracting such an international crowd that I logically assumed it would be of global standards. The photos of CWC were so inviting even for non-wakeboarders like us. Plus : It should be a novelty sleeping in a transformed container van. And it would be a thrill to try wakeboarding too. But dealing with the Reservations Desk was an ordeal. (Calling Governor L. Ray!)

A good book, bed weather, a bottle of beer, a cool breeze. The pool can wait!

I made online inquiries and finding that there is a family trailer available even for one night (I tried booking for 2 nights), I labored to book it on that free night. Five e-mails. A couple of calls. Several text messages to their published mobile number. I got 2 replies, each one saying a family trailer is available for one night. I kept repeating that I was actually BOOKING it. How frustrating. How tiring. Lost all energy. I gave up. Thought we’d just try our luck when we get to Pili, Camsur.

As it turned out, Typhoon Signal #2 in Bicol Region was a blessing in disguise. No problem. Just Opportunities. Many cancelled their bookings. The scheduled Beauty Pageant to be held in CWC may even be cancelled at the last minute , depending on how the weather conditions improve or deteriorate. Imagine finding these ladies in their bikinis (woot! woot!) , all made-up, hair carefully permed , walking around in their silver high heeled sandals. 🙂

So we found ourselves reaching CWC and learning we can have the family trailer van for 2 nights. Yey! We were happy, even if the lady behind the Desk didn’t look happy to have us. (Calling Gov. L-Ray…..) The Family Trailer looked just the way I expected it. The children expected it to have wheels though. :)) The vans were painted blue, green or red. We got the red one. The painting is almost faded, and the kitchen cupboards are in dire need of repair. Who said this CWC place is new? The entire place looks nice. Up close though, your heart breaks that the place may not look as good if the property is not managed well. And they sure have an issue with ants all over the place. A stray cat even visited us the following morning, whom the kids fed. Nicknamed “Bob”, he was our pet for 2 days.

No takers?

We checked out the Lago del Rey. No one’s wakeboarding. Who would? Everyone is expecting the typhoon to hit land anytime now. Armed with a good book, I soon took over a corner from where I enjoyed reading with a bottle of beer and a cool breeze. Lights were dimmed in this area, even if they call it a dining place. So I just concentrated on my drink instead. At least the waiting staff here were very friendly and efficient. Their pizza, grilled vegetable salad, barbeque, and whatever else we ordered were good. I am pleased. Pleased enough to forget my reservations ordeal and “not-so-warm welcome”. Before long, I found myself heading for those huts for a good rub. On a rainy afternoon, what beats that?

When we got back to our trailer home, my niece and nephew-in-law got ready to sleep in the “Master’s Bedroom” while my 2 grandchildren each took over the twin beds on the other end of the trailer van. Each one of them too excited to sleep ALONE on their bunk. Where does that leave their doting grandma? Poor Mamu 😦

And so it was agreed that Mamu will sleep with the not-so-little girl the first night, and with the not-so-little boy the 2nd night. Problem solved.

Goodbye, Bob the Cat

Tags: Bicol, Camsur, Camsur Water Complex, CWC, Naga

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Seismic Mayon On A Cloudy Day

Filed under: Philippine Travels, Travel, travels — 3 Comments

May 24, 2011

That grand old dame has her moods. Last time I visited, I only had a glimpse of her peak while cruising out of Legazpi City southbound for Donsol. Oh, the frustration! Imagine Cagsawa Ruins without Mayon. Most of the time, Mount Mayon hid behind clouds, peeking out for a few seconds or a full minute, only to hide again.

Not this time. I must have repeated myself countless times that Mt. Mayon is not like what it has been the one week we were in Bicol. But there she was. In all her majesty. Looking gloriously lovely, even on a cloudy day. As if teasing the gods since Typhoon Signal #2 was declared in the area. The clouds would pass, but the lady is set to make her appearance. She showed up from all the corners of Legazpi City, from Cagsawa Ruins to Daraga Church up on a hill. From Lignon Hills to halfway around Mayon Skyline. She stood there. Ever present. Set to make her majestic appearance. Like no one, no typhoon could stop her.

Taken from Mayon Skyline

The morning they declared Typhoon Signal #2, we looked out the window of Villa Amada Hotel where Mayon stood guard while our not so little ones were sound asleep. Deciding to make it a lazy day, we even managed a day trip to Mayon Skyline. Zigzagging up, we passed many children waving hello to us. Unlike my last visit when it was cold and foggy, the entire lake and the top peak of Mayon were both visible. We made it! The children were frustrated the Planetarium was closed (despite the sign that says “Welcome. We are open.”) and that there wasn’t much to do at the halfway resthouse. All that zigzagging, for nothing. But it was well worth the trip especially for me who missed this panoramic vista the last time. Intensified seismic activity you say? Oh ok. We’re heading down now. Thanks for the warning.

Tags: Albay, Bicol, Mayon, Philippines

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Reunion With The Butandings: The Sea Pets of Donsol

Filed under: Philippine Travels — 19 Comments

May 23, 2011

I kept my word. In an earlier blog , I reminisced about my late February butanding encounter and promised myself I’d bring my family to Donsol for the same awesome experience. That promise was fulfilled last week.

It was a straight drive from Makati to Barrio Dancalan in Donsol, Sorsogon. Meal stops at Max’s Lucena, late lunch at Camalig’s Let’s Pinangat, and several pee stops. The little ones were good travelers. Expecting them to be restless, we were surprised they slept through much of the 10 hour ride. Leaving at 5 am, it was almost sunset by the time we reached the Butanding capital of the world. We stayed in a place that must not be named as it was very nearly a mood killer for this vacay. Well, only as far as I was concerned. The rest of the family went uncomplaining and were just too tired to call it an early night when we reached the place.

We spent 2 nights here. Randy, the Butanding Interaction Officer (B.I.O) I had that time I had my 1st whale shark experience has been waiting for us and eager to meet my grandchildren, aged 10 and 13. My girls were also with me, all of whom were just as excited to meet the butandings. I wrote about Randy the last time, and has since been my textmate with his “jejemon” language which never fails to give me headaches. For the day, he was Kuya Randy to my apos. So with the 2nd B.I.O. who joined us on our boat, Kuya Bong. Yes, we hired 2 BIOs. Wanted to make sure my 2 apos can each have a BIO cum life guard when they jump to meet their whale shark friends.

The gentle giants didn’t let us down. The 1st jump for the apos (plus 1 of my girls) was a hurried one. No chance for dear Martin, my 10 year-old apo, to change his mind. The minute the spotters alerted Kuya Bong and Kuya Randy that a butanding lurks beneath the waters near our boat, they ordered them little ones to jump with them. Oh, I was so proud of them! No hesitation. No second thoughts. They jumped in tandem with their BIO kuyas, and promptly raised their thumbs up shortly after seeing the whale shark which Martin described as “as big as a Honda City car”. Not exactly huge. But its size is enough to get these kids all smiling and proud of their experience. You bet it was the start of non-stop chatter from this excitable 10 y.o. till he grew tired and fell nearly asleep on the boat.

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The duo of these kids’ mom and auntie was next. They made 2 jumps, without success. The first time, the butanding even displayed its dorsal fin for all to see. I was so excited I wanted to push anyone in front of me just to get a good shot. The second time around, they were just around 15 meters from the butanding whose shadow we can actually see from the boat. Oh, the frustration for these 2 ladies! The 3rd time around, and because the kids are so eager to have their turn, the BIOs allowed the 2 kids to jump with the 2 adults. Guess what. These butandings must have sensed the presence of my 2 apos that this 10 meter whale shark stayed with their new little friends for a while. I was beside myself on the boat, taking photos, when I saw them raise their thumbs up a second time. Happiness.

The B&B where we stayed, and which we refrain from naming here, packed a picnic brunch for us. No one wanted to eat. Or can’t. Too excited. Adrenaline pumping high. Me? I had this ill-timed eye infection that I stayed on the boat the whole time, snapping photos in between coffee and sandwiches shared with the boat crew. Though I’ve “met” the butandings just a couple of months back, I wouldn’t mind interacting with them again. But the glee I saw on the faces of them little ones and my girls are priceless. Empty stomachs, yet excited over this awesome animal experience. Too excited that 13 y.o. Patricia was swimming away from the pack, and without a life buoy at that! Enough to send her aunt into near-panic mode. But this grandma was watching the whole time. So did the 2 BIOs, Kuya Randy and Kuya Bong. We all knew that in glee, we sometimes make silly moves. But not that silly for my swimmer apo. Patricia , and her brother Martin, would likely not forget this experience for a very, very long time. 🙂