Category: Peru



Same time last year, I was only too happy to welcome the new year. It was a very challenging 2023 then and by God’s grace, we breezed through 2024 with many pleasant surprises and happy developments. And just like that, here we are on the last few weeks of 2024, looking forward to a very Merry Christmas and an even happier 2024.

Nightcap at Fairmont Hotel

The first quarter of 2024 was nearly uneventful until my visit to our OZ branch in Sydney. The visit was actually a prelude to an even longer trip crossing 3 time zones. Sydney was our takeoff point for our South American adventure. I waited to join my travel buddies on a flight to Santiago, Chile on April 2. The “barkada trip” covering Chile and Peru spanned over 2 weeks but I left earlier than the rest to join my 2 “apos” in the beautiful city of Venezia for the biennale exhibition. But that’s getting ahead of my story. Patagonia on Chile’s side is magnificent — the kind of adventure you should have planned for when you were younger. Seriously. But visiting it now still stirs that adventurous juice within you. The vista was so dreamy it casts a magical spell. We’ve had some mishaps and coming into Peru, experienced altitude sickness of sorts. Yet, we all cherish the memories and weeks after the trip, found it a chore to move on. We’ve traveled to many beautiful spots together but this South American journey is one for the books. Santiago, Patagonia, Machu Picchu, Cuzco, Lake Titicaca and all the places in between comprise one magical holiday, compelling us to rethink our future travel plans.

Torres Del Paine. Patagonia. Chile.
Cusco. Peru

It was agonizing to leave this happy group to take that last seat on a flight from Lima, Peru to Madrid, Spain for a connecting flight to Venice, Italy. By the time I landed in Venice, I felt brain-fogged and nearly deaf after all those flight hours and anxieties over missing my connecting flight. My 2 elves were waiting for me by then as I managed to join them on the exhibit opening day. Without change of clothes, we didn’t miss a beat and went straight to the gallery where my grandma pride took over as I stared at apo’s lone entry hanging on a wall at Palazzo Mora. Grateful. Proud. Beyond Happy. We celebrated the day I arrived with a sumptuous Italian dinner before I hit the sack and snored the night away. Just one night. The following morning, we took the train for Florence where we spent 6 nights and then to Rome for 3 more nights before flying home. It was an Italian holiday that went better than planned.

Venezia

London

Some friends ask me where I get the energy. By September, we got ready for yet another art exhibition in London. Before the London exhibit, we took side trips to Liverpool and Edinburgh in Scotland. A most rewarding trip in 3 cities in the United Kingdom. Apo and her mom enjoyed these detours and prepped us good for the exhibit of Filipino artists in D Contemporary in the Mayfair area of London. Took all of nearly 3 weeks for this UK journey. Stayed home less than 2 weeks before flying back to Sydney — a second visit this year, and this time as a prelude to a New Zealand cruise aboard the Celebrity Edge. Not my first cruise but my first trip to further Down Under! Twelve nights on this big boat, half of which spent at sea. Our big group of 29 made it across those unpredictable waters and found the NZ spots under the tourist radar quite interesting, if not charming.

Celebrity Edge Cruiseship Behind me.

Marina in Auckland, New Zealand

I am home now. Happy to have bonded with my OZ family before and after my NZ cruise. Happy to be back to attend a reunion with college friends and of course, to spend Christmas and New Year with my family. No trips outside the country nor out-of-town. We are staying home to spend time with balikbayan kin and friends. The Yuletide calendar is full, marking a couple of birthdays and a wedding anniversary as well. We have made some Yuletide traditions simpler over the years. Simpler, but more “present”. Wishing everyone a Merry Christmas. May 2025 bring us peace, prosperity, harmony and many treasured moments with our loved ones ❤️

My OZ family
Christmas Party

Planned years ago but then, the pandemic threw a monkey wrench on our travel calendar for 2020. Postponed a couple of times, we finally managed to pull through this 2024 minus some friends originally in the list. We’ve settled on Chile and Peru but not without some major iti changes like dropping Atacama Desert and instead including Patagonia. We were also close to implementing “Plan B” as half in our group have not obtained Chilean visas a good week before the trip. In the end, all of us but one got our visas. The one who didn’t just caught up with us in Peru for the second leg of the trip.

Santiago, Chile

While I spent 3 weeks in Sydney prior to this South American adventure, I caught up with the group at the Sydney Airport for our trip to Santiago, Chile. They flew in from Manila for the connecting flight Down Under. The others chose to fly in to Chile from California. We also planned to enjoy 3 rest days prior to the start of the tour to rev up our energy, especially considering that this travel itinerary involves 6 domestic and regional flights. And that does not include a 10 hour bus ride from Cusco to Puno. Thinking back, it sure is a hectic, tiring and challenging journey. Only our excitement and sworn resolve to endure were going for us. And true, the familiarity and tested friendship helped along.

Lago Pehoe in Patagonia

The second leg of the journey spawned a few health concerns. Altitude sickness hit some of us especially as we moved from Cusco towards Lake Titicaca. It helped that the novelty and the magnificent scenery helped us endure some ailments, and that our hotels were well-prepared and accustomed to deal with such adversities. Not to be dismissed is the fact that we had very good guides in Patagonia, Cusco, Machu Picchu and Puno. We drew a lot of comfort in that. As we dwelled on our travel joys and woes, we all agreed that while the trip is longer and more tiring than most of our previous travels, we totally enjoyed it as the spots we visited are simply magical and breathtaking.

Lunch in Cusco

Here’s the blog summary of our adventures in Chile and Peru.

Touchdown, Santiago de Chile

A Neruda Kind of Day

Flying Into Patagonia

Torres del Paine, Chilean Side

Back In Lima, Peru

Segunda Vez En Machu Picchu

Getting High in Cusco (2017)

Higher Up in Lake Titicaca

Except for my piece on Cusco, all other blog links refer to our recent (2024) trip. It has been a while since I’ve done a really lengthy trip — this time, crossing 3 timezones. From Down Under (Sydney) to South America (Chile and Peru) to Italy. Watch out for my blogs on our Italian holiday with Nieto y Nieta. It’s a rather short one but never lacking in new adventures. After all, there is always something new to do or check out in Italy. Ciao!


Can’t believe I paid big bucks for this. Sure, I anticipated the racing heartbeat and low oxygen levels, but diarrhea? And not just moí — others in our traveling group experienced upset stomachs too. Just another offshoot of altitude sickness, they say. But we endured. Puno is where you’d find Lake Titicaca, the largest freshwater lake in South America and the highest navigable lake in the world. There are less than 20 “ancient” lakes on earth and Titicaca ranks among them. It also borders Bolivia to the east and sits at over 3,800 meters above sea level. That is just a few meters below La Raya, the highest point (4,300 meters) between Cusco and Puno which we passed on our way here. Feeling the way I did here, I gave up on my dream to visit Rainbow Mountain which tops at 5,200 meters, more than twice that of Machu Picchu!

Boat made of totora reeds.
The Lady Village Head

At this elevation, it’s interesting that the waters are very still, so calm it mirrors one’s reflection quite clearly and brightly! The lake claimed to be the birthplace of the Incas is 56% owned by Peru while the remaining 44% lies in La Paz, Bolivia. The lady you see on the photo above rules the village like a Mayor would. When we arrived, there was an assortment of fabrics, rugs, handicraft strewn on the floating island made of reeds, available for sale. Calls to mind my visit to Myanmar’s Inle Lake where I also found “floating villages”. The latter, I find more progressive though. Their weaving industry is far more superior and the villages have become self-sufficient with “floating gardens” complete with weaving factories, schools and even restaurants.

For Sale
The Village Chief’s Hubby

The closest city to the lake is Puno from where we took a private boat to reach Uros Village. The indigenous people who live here are called Uros themselves and they call the floating islands made of Totora reeds their home. I’ve read somewhere that should one fall into the lake, tradition dictates that no rescue will be done. That is, the person who fell into the lake would be considered an “offering” to the Earth Goddess”. Now, if you’re wondering about the lake’s depth, you bet it’s deep at 140 to 280 meters deep!

The boat ride took less than a half hour
from the hotel’s wharf.

We tried riding the “reed boats” but felt safer back in our tiny motorboat sailing to the island of Taquile for a short hike for our lunch. Then back to our Puno lakefront hotel. I like our Sonesta Posada del Inca Hotel’s lakefront yard. Breakfast offers a stunning view of the waters and the yard has cozy gazebos and sitting areas. Perfect for cocktails at sundown.

The hike before the lunch.

back to the hotel after this excursion


The first time was in 2017 to celebrate my birthday in a country that has been in my bucket list far too long. And Machu Picchu has been listed for the longest time, waiting to be ticked off! This time around, I made sure I’m in the best of health to truly enjoy this magical Incan citadel, only to learn I unfortunately have high altitude issues. Not as bad as it was 7 years ago, but it was concerning enough to make me mindful. When our guide led the group to climb up further for a better view, I begged off and waited solo for them to climb down and fetch me — after nearly an hour in a spot with no shade but with a fantastic view of the citadel. You bet I took endless photos to a point I confused myself which images to keep. And with so many tour groups passing and pausing in my spot, I must have heard 5 versions of the Machu Picchu mystery.

Stayed the night in this hotel in Sacred Valley before the Machu Picchu visit.

The last time I was here, I was struck with altitude sickness. Guess what? I had it again. But this time, milder. The 2017 episode must have messed up my mind as I wasn’t prepared for it and honestly didn’t know what to do. This time around, I had more confidence despite the migraine, racing heartbeat and low oxygen levels. My oxymeter says oxygen dropping to 70 but I made some breathing exercises and managed to elevate it to 80+, still below the 95 level but the quick relief gave me comfort. When it dropped below 70, I thought the gadget wasn’t functioning right but knowing the brain is affected by lack of oxygen, I headed to the hotel’s reception and asked for an oxygen tank. Voila. Problem solved. And unlike before, I stayed calm so my heartbeat was better managed below 100. (It raced to 127 well past my bedtime back in 2017) All’s well!

At the start of the hike, our guide led us uphill “for a better view”. I kept nudging him to ask how much further and higher, but this excitable guide kept saying I’d get the energy from the Incan Citadel to forge ahead! Naaaaah. I put my foot down and reminded him that I have a heart condition and would not climb any higher. This is my second visit here and knew it wasn’t necessary to climb up for a better view. No way. The view I see is perfect for me. I just couldn’t have it better. Best view without the struggle! So the rest of the troop climbed higher and came back for me after an hour – in a spot that could do with some shade. I drained my tube of sunblock and must have smelled sweet enough for a swarm of bees to chase me some half hour while waiting.

We may not have solved the “mystery” of Machu Picchu but everyone in the group was very happy for the experience. Tired. Yes. Fatigued. Yes. But just the thought that we finally got here after 5 years of planning — with all the mishaps — made us all feel fulfilled. Yes, I think that’s what it felt like. For me, the fact that I realized I have altitude issues renders me mindful on how I travel. Regrettably, I had to abstain from all the pisco sour cocktails and vino. Drank myself to nearly drowning point 😂 that it disturbed my sleep. It was a struggle but I managed. I just feel bad skipping on the wine especially during happy hours. 😩


From Patagonia, we flew back to the capital of Santiago, Chile and then switched airports and took an international flight to Lima, Peru. Long drives, a domestic flight and a regional/international flight in a single day. All endured with a smile as we excitedly prepped for our way towards Machu Picchu, obviously the highlight of our Andean adventure. But first, Lima for a couple of nights. The Plaza de Armas in the Centro Hispanico, the famous “kiss” statue in the Love Park or Parque de Amor, the Parque Kennedy with its many resident cats, the Basilica Catedral de Lima and the Basilica y Convento de San Francisco (with the catacombs!), Larcomar for shopping and dining along the Pacific Ocean. If you’re booked in a hotel within or around Miraflores, you’d enjoy exploring the area with its tiny shops and sangucherias like La Lucha near Parque Kennedy — exactly as I remember them back when I first visited in 2017. I was eager to once more try the Pisco Sour, the chicha morada, lomo saltado, suspiro de lucuma, chirimoya, lechon sandwiches, chicharones and Inca Cola.

Barkada Photo at Parque de Amor
under the Beso Statue

It was hot and humid but with a slight breeze. The men donned their shorts while the ladies wore their cotton shirts and sun dresses. Walked ahead of the group and skipped half of the catacombs tour, which I’ve done in 2017 and have no interest revisiting again. The other spots within the Centro Hispanico with all its colonial architecture — this I like. The only thing I failed to visit again in Lima is the fruit market where I enjoyed the sweetest chirimoya ever! Also, I wouldn’t mind a trip to Barranco to imbibe its more bohemian vibes and to try one of the Michelin-ranked restos in the capital. (Our Chilean visa issues threw a monkey wrench on our usual travel plans.)

Lima may not require many days to cover but it has its own charm. If you’re planning ahead, do make those restaurant reservations well ahead of time. This place is pure gastronomy where meat and seafood rank supreme. We didn’t do so badly in this department despite the lack of dining itinerary. Our last dinner as a group at Punta Azul in Miraflores was all seafood, wine and rice — as in all kinds of rice! Tried chicharonnes, pulpo, ceviche, scallops, and 4 rice dishes. Man, these Asians missed their rice!!!

Yummy sandwiches here — like lechon and chicharon! And the best fries.
Dinner at Punta Azul. 👍