Category: Musings & Ramblings


PISA’s Leaning Tower and the Art of Keith Haring

Filed under: art, Europe, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
May 20, 2024

We came for the leaning tower, that iconic landmark of Pisa. But found more. “Tuttomondo” (All World) is one of Keith Haring’s last artworks before he passed away in 1990. The mural is on the rear wall of the Sant’ Antonio Abate church in Pisa, a short distance from the train station. Haring’s famous quote still resonates to this day: “Art should be something that liberates your soul, provokes the imagination and encourages people to go further.” Keith has a penchant for street art and graffiti art, as if searching for an audience that is more akin to the average Joe. In the 80’s, his career yielded 50 “public” artworks bearing social and political undertones. His vibrant works evoke motion and even seem cartoon-ish, a flash of energy represented in colorful and fun symbols, with messages bordering on activism.

We took our time viewing the mural. Huge as it is, we surmised we’d likely spend more minutes just staring at it. Finding this burger place just across it, we decided almost mindlessly to have our lunch there. The glass panels offered an unobstructed view of the mural and so that really worked for us. On full stomachs, we were ready to hop on a bus in search for the iconic tower. There was a big crowd! My first time here was in 1986, and bursting with energy then, I didn’t pass up the chance to climb up. At the time, I think the tower was leaning at a slightly sharper angle. Just a few years after my 1986 visit, experts came to “stabilise” the tower so it was closed to the public for some time. By the time I returned in 2000, it was open again. I visited a few more times: in 2009 and in 2016. So this visit is my 5th!

Art Burger across the Keith Haring Mural

In all of the 5 visits, I lament that I only did day trips from Firenze rather than spending more time to explore the town. I am sure there is more to see. But the tourist crowd turns me off. Also there were so many pickpockets. Apo caught a young girl pulling her bag during the short bus ride. While shopping around the stalls just outside the square, I can sense we weren’t so safe and held on to my purse. While buying train tickets at the machine in the station, there were teens in line ahead of us, trying to chat us up. I would have found that charming under “safer” circumstances but my mood didn’t take me there. A pity. But my radar was up and we simply opted to be more wary.

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Wining 101 in Tuscany

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On an excursion from Firenze, we visited Monteriggioni and Chianti and was delighted to receive wine lessons from AGRICOLA POGGIO AI LAGHI where we tasted 4 kinds of wine, oils and balsamic vinegar. It was a wonderful, fun-filled session and everyone in the group thoroughly enjoyed the wine and oil tasting as much as the humorous spiels by the host. They even served us a good pasta dish. It was a penne pasta dish where we were all encouraged to spice it up with their chili pepper olive oil. Not bad. I actually like it despite the fact that the penne came from a box. (Seems we’ve been spoiled, feasting on homemade pasta all our days here in Italy) But I particularly enjoyed their thick, syrupy balsamic vinegar from Modena. Served with toast, but I can imagine it pairing well with some fresh strawberries. Hmmm. But back to wine, we found the winery so warm and welcoming. Quite a sensory experience just by being there, savouring every drop, every sniff, every swirl, every gulp. So very pleasant, indeed!

Cheers!
2 kinds of balsamic vinegar.
Gold spoon or Silver spoon?

The winery caters to special events and parties. I can imagine big birthday and wedding celebrations here. Or corporate events, like a product launch. Must be equipped with a good kitchen, I presume. The set-up is quite impressive. The vineyards extend to the Monteriggioni area, a small commune with an interesting walled settlement dotted with tiny stores and cafes. A small chapel inside must have welcomed some pilgrims doing the Via Francigena as Chianti and Monteriggioni are along the Tuscan parts of the camino. When I saw the brown markers — as contrasted with the yellow and blue markers of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela — I was reminded of my pilgrimage walk some 8 years earlier from Viterbo to the Vatican/Rome.

Entrance to the Winery
The Wine Tasting Room

We may all be familiar with Chianti as a region and as a wine, but not Monteriggioni. When the guide gave us an hour to freely roam around, I thought that wasn’t enough time. Turns out it was really such a small compact commune that an hour is all you need. Yet it presents itself with a decent square, a tiny church, a cafe and a few stores selling local handicraft around the square or from the narrow alleys. Actually I felt I was in one of those Disney “lands”. Except that we had to hike up a decent distance to reach the piazza. Only needed a choo choo train to ferry us around and save some breath. 😩

Tuscany’s landscapes are a feast to the eyes. Coming from Firenze where art permeated the city’s soul, it was nice to breath in fresh air while sipping wine sourced from the vineyards right in front of you. The landscapes framed in the walled commune’s huge, arched gates are so pretty. Imagine this same scenery just before the grapes are harvested. Or when spring flowers are in bloom. Or even the tall, thin cypress trees swaying as the wind blows. Bellissima!

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A Day in Siena & San Gimignano

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Most tourists take this excursion out of Florence to visit Siena and San Gimignano. Did it in 2009; did it again this 2024 with “apos”. Like me, I’m sure they’d enjoy this part of Tuscany. If Florence is a Renaissance city, then it’s all medieval as you reach Siena and San Gimignano. All 3 teeming in art, history and culture. If only for these 3, Tuscany is truly a dream destination. For people like Frances Mayes (author: Under The Tuscan Sun), it even is home. Tuscany. Rolling hills, medieval buildings, breathtaking sceneries. Then throw in the vineyards and good food, and staying is no longer an option but a wonderful decision.

Siena’s Piazza del Campo
Siena Cathedral

The Siena Cathedral is hailed as the prettiest among Italy’s Gothic Cathedrals. The alternating black and white marbles present a unique striped exterior while the interiors hold even more jaw-dropping elegance and beauty, while continuing with the black and white band-striped theme. Che magnifico! I love that this heritage site is devoid of motor vehicles but that can only mean that visitors should be prepared to walk. Somehow, being closed to traffic gives Siena that “frozen in time” charm. Just like Venezia and many parts of Firenze.

Siena’s Lovely Cityscape
Michelin Guide Had This Listed

Our local guide calmly narrated the significance of the piazza and how it is used for horse races called “Palio”. Quite insane, this centuries old race. It’s a horse race, so the winner is the horse, not the jockey. I mean, the unsaddled horse that first crosses the finishing line may be without a jockey and still win. Just 3 laps around the fan-shaped piazza. 10 horses. Approximately, the race lasts 90 seconds. And they hold this pageant twice a year every July 2 and August 16 since the 15th century!

So Medieval
World’s Best Gelato (2024)?

Our luck held out in Siena. The guide recommended where we can enjoy good Cacio y Pepe — Papei Trattoria. Pici Cardinale, and Pappardelle al Cinghiale were likewise excellent! And more luck with our gelato. The ones we had in Siena were good. But the gelato in San Gimignano even better. A sign claims it’s named most popular gelateria in 2024. But 2024 isn’t over yet. Whatever. Not complaining about the gelato though. And over the moon with our lunch at Papei.

“Medieval Manhattan “
San Gimignano’s Box-Like Towers

San Gimignano’s medieval towers from the 12th to the 13th centuries now count over a dozen. A big drop from the more than 70 towers centuries ago when they adorned this Tuscan hill town. The 12th century Collegiata is often mistaken for a cathedral or duomo with its treasure of dramatic frescoes of the New Testament. The towers, the “duomo” , the piazza and the medieval architecture should paint a beautiful silhouette against the skyline at sundown, the way I viewed it back in 2009. No such luck this time. But the elves are happy with their gelato!

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No Touristy Stuff in Firenze?

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May 15, 2024

We had all of 7 days and 6 nights here in Florence. Minus 2 whole days for out-of-town excursions. I stayed in to recharge for 2 whole days while apos visited more museums and met up with friends. I made sure I sent them off to Uffizi Art Gallery and the Medici Museum but interestingly, they also visited the Ferragamo Museum and the Gucci Garden Museum. I remember they enjoyed the Dior Museum in Paris last year. After all, the lines are blurred between art and fashion. On Day 1 here, I joined them viewing Kiefer’s exhibit at the Palazzo Strozzi and the oldest pharmacy in the world. We also passed the piazza where the Duomo is, and we had meals at the Mercato Centrale. Beyond that, their interests seem to lie elsewhere. Just off Palazzo Strozzi is an impressive theater cum bookshop. Cinema Odeon is housed in a Renaissance palace with an amphitheater-like structure where you can claim a seat among stacks of books. We spent a lot of time here, and I’m told they went back the next day without me.

Palazzo Strozzi
Uffizi Gallery

We were all fascinated by the art exhibit we viewed almost on a whim (Kiefer in Palazzo Strozzi) and Cinema Odeon — a very unique bookstore around Piazza Strozzi. So with our random dining finds for best gelato, best pizza, best bistecca, best paninis, best affogato and best rooftop bar. While we decided on our first bistecca at the Mercato, we chanced upon this gelateria which suggested we try this very local flavor called “buontalenti”, named after the inventor of the Italian gelato himself! The movie “Eat, Pray and Love” featured this pizza joint which now proudly hangs a photo of Julia Roberts — and we dare say it isn’t a hype. We actually enjoyed their Napoletania and Primavera pizzas, along with those Italian rice balls called arancino. Dining tips came in handy too from the hotel concierge and we’re glad we heeded Alex’s advice. Missed the ribollita and pasta I had years earlier in Trattoria ZaZa and Trattoria Garibaldi, but we totally enjoyed our dinners at Trattoria il Giardino (loved the Tuscan coccoli) and Trattoria Burrasca (best bistecca!). As for happy hours, nothing beats sipping rosé at sundown in Art on View Rooftop Bar. If this all sounds to you like a food trip, it seriously is. The same DNA runs in their veins, after all.

View on Art Rooftop bar.
The Duomo

The days I wasn’t with them, they went for quick lunches at All’ Antico Vinaio. And ate more gelato. They also swore they had the best affogato in Vivoli and promised to take me there. And I swear they were not lying! I offered to take them around the historic center to check out spots they missed but these 2 had other interests. Told you 😜 A food trip in Italy? Not a bad idea. As for me, I’m ready for our out-of-town excursions. Makes life simpler just hopping in a bus to take us to touristy spots with a laid-out itinerary guided by a tour director. No bus or train tickets to buy. No lunch reservations to book. And I ensure these 2 learn some history outside of the dining scene. Ciao!

Best Affogato!

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Post-Biennale, Off to Firenze

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May 13, 2024

By noontime, we trooped to Mestre Train Station for our ride to Florence. Made sure our trip has 0 stops as I doubt we have the energy to switch trains and drag our big bags. We were famished by the time we reached Firenze SMN Station. Our apartment is just off the Basilica Di Santa Maria Novella but it took all of our energy to walk with our luggage in tow. Having checked in, we fell in love with our apartment. With 6 nights to spend here, I’ve decided to stay in for a much-needed rest to recover my sapped energy, do the laundry (3 weeks load!) and send off the apos to make other arrangements like meet some friends, hit more art galleries, do shopping or whatever else in the next 2 days. The NEXT couple of days. Today, some introductions are in order.

Basilica of Santa Maria Novella
The oldest pharmacy — now perfumery — in the world.

As soon as we loaded the first batch of laundry into the washing machine, we took off. Very near our apartment is the oldest running pharmacy in Florence, and in the world: the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. It all started in 1221 with Dominican friars developing a botanical garden of plants and herbs to produce healing ointments, balms and other medicines. Over time, the concoctions produced perfumes which counted royalties and prominent families among its clients. We sniffed around — and liked the scents but didn’t end up buying any. From this pharmacy, we walked a few blocks to reach Palazzo Strozzi where we promptly bought tickets to view Anselm Kiefer’s exhibit “Fallen Angels”. Very impressive. Not our first impression though, but his art grows on you as you spend more time with the artworks.

Kiefer’s “Fallen Angels” in Palazzo Strozzi

On our first day in Florence, we passed the Piazza Di Santa Maria Novella, visited the world’s oldest pharmacy, viewed an art exhibit, admired the magnificent Duomo, chanced upon the Odeon Theater cum Bookshop, and ended up in Mercato Centrale for dinner. We wanted to eat in the nearby trattorias but we were so hungry that we found the long lines frustrating. And so, we had our first bistecca florentina at the Mercato. Rarely that we dined without any conversation, but this is one moment. We devoured the Chianina beef like there’s no tomorrow. Gelato for a good finish and we had the best flavor ever — buontalenti, named after Bernardo Buontalenti, the Florentine inventor of Gelato.

Bistecca alla Florentina
Gelato
Mercato Centrale

Having crossed 3 timezones, I looked forward to the next 2 days of doing nothing. Well, not exactly nothing. Like a doting abuela, I did the laundry and even cooked dinner. I also managed to book excursions for the next 2 days : one to Cinque Terre and another day trip to visit Siena, San Gimignano, Chianti and Monteriggioni. Plus a dinner booking at a nearby Trattoria il Giardino. Nieto y Nieta were on their own the first 2 whole days in Firenze, meeting their Abuela only for dinner either at the apartment (for a home cooked meal) or in a nearby trattoria. We did return to the Mercato Centrale to buy dinner to eat in the apartment. Even the young get exhausted as they preferred to stay in in the apartment that became our cozy home for a week. And they’re only on their second week while their Abuela has already clocked 6 weeks. 😜

More to write about Firenze. Wait for the next blog.

Good pasta, osso buco and coccoli
Soft music on a chilly night.
I’m on holiday 💤
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Last Seat to Venice

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The original plan was just Chile and Peru either via California or Sydney. Choosing the latter, it was a no brainer to fly ahead and spend some weeks there to be with family. And then the Venice exhibit of Nieta popped up. Of course, we had to be there! But there’s the business of visas and bookings. And I’d be on my last couple of days in Peru when the vernissage and exhibit opening happens. Apos would have to go on their own while their abuela arranges to later join them. My brain matter was all over the place. Temporary hotel bookings were made but the flights out of Lima, Peru didn’t offer many options. That last seat was non-refundable and non-rebookable. Take it or leave it. I took it. Problem is I’d be flying from Puno to Lima, Peru a day prior on LatAm and based on my previous experiences, this airline wasn’t the most reliable. Sweeping all anxieties aside, I crossed my fingers and prayed for a seamless flight out of Lima to arrive in time for the Venice Biennale 2024 exhibit opening.

Touchdown, Venezia!
Around Venice

The Iberia flight out of Lima had a Madrid stopover. I was tempted to enjoy some churros or tapas with Rioja but chose to remain sober and clear-minded for the connecting flight. Can’t miss this connection. Anxieties spilling all over, overflowing. Thankfully, the flight was uneventful and so was the airport shuttle I took for Mestre Station near our hotel in Venice. Oh, did I tell you? The hotel I booked in Venice near the exhibit venue cancelled our booking. A major headache since the Venice Biennale 2024 was already in full swing and most hotels are either fully booked or if available, at outrageous rates! Because my apos will arrive some days before me, I wanted to make sure they have reliable hotel bookings and that being first-timers in Venezia, they will easily find their hotel. Venice being Venice, it isn’t easy wandering around this car-less city and dragging luggage from one vaporetto station to the next. So Mestre was our choice. And what a relief hearing these 2 apos calling out to me as soon as I got off the shuttle at the Mestre train station. All’s well. We’re together now. And as soon as I dropped off my bag in our hotel, we took off for lunch and the exhibit.

Lunch was here.

After lunch, we proceeded to Palazzo Mora to view apo’s “From Here, To There” artwork. I may have missed the cocktail reception for the artists and invited friends, but I got here in time for the public opening. Said a Thanksgiving prayer, as I felt my heart swell with pride and love. Not just for apo’s piece but also for the 11 artworks of other participating Filipino visual artists included in this exhibition in Venezia. So proud of all of them. I was nearly dancing out of Palazzo Mora when done, and celebrated with apos with a gondola ride to imbibe Venetian vibes and savor every moment of this magical moment. The gondolier sang us a beautiful Italian song — not the typical O Sole Mio or Santa Lucia, but it was beautiful and so soothing on an exciting day like this one. Our nerves calmed, we hopped out of the gondola to wander around St. Mark’s Square, Bridge of Sighs and the Rialto Bridge.

Dreams do come true.
I cried just viewing Nieta’s artwork in Palazzo Mora.
Our Gondola Ride

While apos have been here some days before me, I spent only a night here as we’ve decided to train out the next day for our next base for Tuscan excursions in Firenze. It’s my 5th visit here but felt like it was my 1st as I saw Venice through Nieto y Nieta’s perspectives. We wandered around while enjoying our gelatos and rode the vaporettos with the locals. All in a half day. By sundown, I was ready to drop. Bushed. Can’t even remember where we had dinner. I only managed to take a bath and pull out my sleeping garment and next-day wardrobe for the train ride to Florence. Mercifully, the train leaves noontime so we were all able to sleep in the whole morning. 💤

Posterity Shot at Piazza San Marco

Arrivederci, Venezia

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Our South American Adventure

Filed under: Chile, Musings & Ramblings, Patagonia, Peru, South America, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
May 11, 2024

Planned years ago but then, the pandemic threw a monkey wrench on our travel calendar for 2020. Postponed a couple of times, we finally managed to pull through this 2024 minus some friends originally in the list. We’ve settled on Chile and Peru but not without some major iti changes like dropping Atacama Desert and instead including Patagonia. We were also close to implementing “Plan B” as half in our group have not obtained Chilean visas a good week before the trip. In the end, all of us but one got our visas. The one who didn’t just caught up with us in Peru for the second leg of the trip.

Santiago, Chile

While I spent 3 weeks in Sydney prior to this South American adventure, I caught up with the group at the Sydney Airport for our trip to Santiago, Chile. They flew in from Manila for the connecting flight Down Under. The others chose to fly in to Chile from California. We also planned to enjoy 3 rest days prior to the start of the tour to rev up our energy, especially considering that this travel itinerary involves 6 domestic and regional flights. And that does not include a 10 hour bus ride from Cusco to Puno. Thinking back, it sure is a hectic, tiring and challenging journey. Only our excitement and sworn resolve to endure were going for us. And true, the familiarity and tested friendship helped along.

Lago Pehoe in Patagonia

The second leg of the journey spawned a few health concerns. Altitude sickness hit some of us especially as we moved from Cusco towards Lake Titicaca. It helped that the novelty and the magnificent scenery helped us endure some ailments, and that our hotels were well-prepared and accustomed to deal with such adversities. Not to be dismissed is the fact that we had very good guides in Patagonia, Cusco, Machu Picchu and Puno. We drew a lot of comfort in that. As we dwelled on our travel joys and woes, we all agreed that while the trip is longer and more tiring than most of our previous travels, we totally enjoyed it as the spots we visited are simply magical and breathtaking.

Lunch in Cusco

Here’s the blog summary of our adventures in Chile and Peru.

Touchdown, Santiago de Chile

A Neruda Kind of Day

Flying Into Patagonia

Torres del Paine, Chilean Side

Back In Lima, Peru

Segunda Vez En Machu Picchu

Getting High in Cusco (2017)

Higher Up in Lake Titicaca

Except for my piece on Cusco, all other blog links refer to our recent (2024) trip. It has been a while since I’ve done a really lengthy trip — this time, crossing 3 timezones. From Down Under (Sydney) to South America (Chile and Peru) to Italy. Watch out for my blogs on our Italian holiday with Nieto y Nieta. It’s a rather short one but never lacking in new adventures. After all, there is always something new to do or check out in Italy. Ciao!

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Segunda Vez en Machu Picchu

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April 22, 2024

The first time was in 2017 to celebrate my birthday in a country that has been in my bucket list far too long. And Machu Picchu has been listed for the longest time, waiting to be ticked off! This time around, I made sure I’m in the best of health to truly enjoy this magical Incan citadel, only to learn I unfortunately have high altitude issues. Not as bad as it was 7 years ago, but it was concerning enough to make me mindful. When our guide led the group to climb up further for a better view, I begged off and waited solo for them to climb down and fetch me — after nearly an hour in a spot with no shade but with a fantastic view of the citadel. You bet I took endless photos to a point I confused myself which images to keep. And with so many tour groups passing and pausing in my spot, I must have heard 5 versions of the Machu Picchu mystery.

Stayed the night in this hotel in Sacred Valley before the Machu Picchu visit.

The last time I was here, I was struck with altitude sickness. Guess what? I had it again. But this time, milder. The 2017 episode must have messed up my mind as I wasn’t prepared for it and honestly didn’t know what to do. This time around, I had more confidence despite the migraine, racing heartbeat and low oxygen levels. My oxymeter says oxygen dropping to 70 but I made some breathing exercises and managed to elevate it to 80+, still below the 95 level but the quick relief gave me comfort. When it dropped below 70, I thought the gadget wasn’t functioning right but knowing the brain is affected by lack of oxygen, I headed to the hotel’s reception and asked for an oxygen tank. Voila. Problem solved. And unlike before, I stayed calm so my heartbeat was better managed below 100. (It raced to 127 well past my bedtime back in 2017) All’s well!

At the start of the hike, our guide led us uphill “for a better view”. I kept nudging him to ask how much further and higher, but this excitable guide kept saying I’d get the energy from the Incan Citadel to forge ahead! Naaaaah. I put my foot down and reminded him that I have a heart condition and would not climb any higher. This is my second visit here and knew it wasn’t necessary to climb up for a better view. No way. The view I see is perfect for me. I just couldn’t have it better. Best view without the struggle! So the rest of the troop climbed higher and came back for me after an hour – in a spot that could do with some shade. I drained my tube of sunblock and must have smelled sweet enough for a swarm of bees to chase me some half hour while waiting.

We may not have solved the “mystery” of Machu Picchu but everyone in the group was very happy for the experience. Tired. Yes. Fatigued. Yes. But just the thought that we finally got here after 5 years of planning — with all the mishaps — made us all feel fulfilled. Yes, I think that’s what it felt like. For me, the fact that I realized I have altitude issues renders me mindful on how I travel. Regrettably, I had to abstain from all the pisco sour cocktails and vino. Drank myself to nearly drowning point 😂 that it disturbed my sleep. It was a struggle but I managed. I just feel bad skipping on the wine especially during happy hours. 😩

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Back in Peru (2024)

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April 20, 2024

From Patagonia, we flew back to the capital of Santiago, Chile and then switched airports and took an international flight to Lima, Peru. Long drives, a domestic flight and a regional/international flight in a single day. All endured with a smile as we excitedly prepped for our way towards Machu Picchu, obviously the highlight of our Andean adventure. But first, Lima for a couple of nights. The Plaza de Armas in the Centro Hispanico, the famous “kiss” statue in the Love Park or Parque de Amor, the Parque Kennedy with its many resident cats, the Basilica Catedral de Lima and the Basilica y Convento de San Francisco (with the catacombs!), Larcomar for shopping and dining along the Pacific Ocean. If you’re booked in a hotel within or around Miraflores, you’d enjoy exploring the area with its tiny shops and sangucherias like La Lucha near Parque Kennedy — exactly as I remember them back when I first visited in 2017. I was eager to once more try the Pisco Sour, the chicha morada, lomo saltado, suspiro de lucuma, chirimoya, lechon sandwiches, chicharones and Inca Cola.

Barkada Photo at Parque de Amor
under the Beso Statue

It was hot and humid but with a slight breeze. The men donned their shorts while the ladies wore their cotton shirts and sun dresses. Walked ahead of the group and skipped half of the catacombs tour, which I’ve done in 2017 and have no interest revisiting again. The other spots within the Centro Hispanico with all its colonial architecture — this I like. The only thing I failed to visit again in Lima is the fruit market where I enjoyed the sweetest chirimoya ever! Also, I wouldn’t mind a trip to Barranco to imbibe its more bohemian vibes and to try one of the Michelin-ranked restos in the capital. (Our Chilean visa issues threw a monkey wrench on our usual travel plans.)

Lima may not require many days to cover but it has its own charm. If you’re planning ahead, do make those restaurant reservations well ahead of time. This place is pure gastronomy where meat and seafood rank supreme. We didn’t do so badly in this department despite the lack of dining itinerary. Our last dinner as a group at Punta Azul in Miraflores was all seafood, wine and rice — as in all kinds of rice! Tried chicharonnes, pulpo, ceviche, scallops, and 4 rice dishes. Man, these Asians missed their rice!!!

Yummy sandwiches here — like lechon and chicharon! And the best fries.
Dinner at Punta Azul. 👍
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Heading South. Really South.

Filed under: Chile, Musings & Ramblings, Phlog, South America, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
April 9, 2024

Have you been to Punta Arenas? How about Puerto Natales to check out the Chilean side of Patagonia? Torre del Paine and the calving glaciers of Balmaceda y Serrano are certainly NOT to be missed. (But that segment of the trip deserves a separate blog.) And right now, I’m just too confused what to write about. Too many highlights! This trip to Chile has had its varied stressful episodes — like delayed visa issuances, many changes in itinerary, postponement from an originally-scheduled trip in 2020, 5 years in planning and all of 8 domestic, regional and international flights (including Peru) on this trip but we are not complaining. 😉

Punta Arenas. Flew from Santiago to this southern tip of the narrowest, longest country in the world.
Hi there. Or as they say here, Hola!

Snow-capped mountains, the bluest waters, glaciers, waterfalls and fields of alfalfa. Plus the wildlife. Andean condors, armadillos, sheep, Patagonian horses, fox and guanacos. And if you’re seriously into wildlife, there are whales, sea lions, penguins, pumas, and flamingoes. Frankly, we’re quite happy seeing the Andean condors. Nature at its best!

Replica of the NAO Victoria , the first ship to circumnavigate the world.

After some days resting our butts in Santiago, Chile we flew south to Punta Arenas and Puerto Natales. The Chilean Patagonia. We had good luck and timed it perfectly in the weather department. While temps hovered between negatives and positive 7 Celsius, the sun was out the 5 days we were here. Every mountain peak showed up! Even the clouds parted into unique patterns, letting the sun beam for better-lighted snapshots. Slight showers, snow flurries, but only for brief moments. And those peaks and valleys showed up in all its clear glory, making photography buffs in our group grow insanely excited and happy. Same goes with the camwhores who have stacked up megabytes in their photo galleries. Our gizmo’s batteries drained and storage full. But that slight setback was ignored completely as we just couldn’t move on from the landscapes, seascapes we saw before us. Nothing can upset my dreamy Patagonia vibes here. The clouds above and the rolling waves from both the South Atlantic and South Pacific Oceans cheered us up. The Strait of Magellan was a good reminder of how Magellan discovered this southern Chilean strip before navigating onwards to discover the Philippine Islands in the 1520’s. Hmmm, we share some history here. And it’s interesting how we each “turned out”.

The Barkada in Fundo San Fernando where we had a soupy beef dish that reminded us of pochero.
Hiking is always a happy adventure for this group.
At Fundo San Fernando’s Parque Keuken

For many of our meals, lamb ruled. Ranchos and estancias provided meaty dishes with portions overly generous that carnivores may choose to live here. As for seafood, I enjoyed their ceviches, pulpo, and filete de cormoran. Been searching for the “Chilean sea bass” but it appears this is pure branding since the real fish is simply referred to as corvina just like the dorado or salmon commonly available. For sure, they grow real sweet tomatoes and onions — just these 2 sprinkled with olive oil and salt enough to prep your appetite. Coffee was a disappointment though, at least those served in our hotels. I rather expected strong, quality coffee thinking Colombia is in the same region. Thus, our morning runs included trips to cafés to pick up our morning brew. This in seriously chill mornings where the sun rises at 7:30 am.

Across our lovely hotel in Puerto Natales is this park fronting the sea.

Between Punta Arenas where the airport is located and Puerto Natales where Torre del Paine can be found, is a nearly 3 hour drive. It must be lonely driving these well-paved roads in winter. But on second thought, those towers covered in snow in all its resplendent beauty can’t fail to cheer anyone up. Just lovely.

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