Our first home base was in Osaka. Right in Namba’s Dotonbori area. The aroma of food wafting from the food stalls and restos kept us going especially on our first night. We have made our wagyu dinner reservations but ended up in the wrong resto branch. And that’s after some time looking all over the place, scanning all the alleys. We were tempted to just skip it and instead check out the many ramen or yakitori or crab places but how can we give up on matsusaka beef 🥩? The staff in the “wrong branch” took us to the right outlet just a few meters away. Seemed like they’re used to guests getting lost or missing the right branch. The night ended well and we were satisfied with our first dinner in Osaka. 👌
Wagyu Dinner at Matsusaka-gyu MFushimi Inari Looking Empty of Visitors
Woke up early the next morning for a train ride to Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, but it seemed most everybody had the same “brilliant idea”. Walked all around until our knees went jello, then moved to Fushimi Inari where once more, a long line of visitors have already assembled. Alas, the gods smiled on us and we found a break in the line so we promptly took snapshots of the shrine’s vermilion gates looking empty. By the time we were done, we took the Keihan Line to Kyoto’s geisha district, Gion. This time, we failed to spot any geisha, geiko nor maiko. But we enjoyed Hanamikoji alley in peace as the sun set in Kyoto.
Another Tourist Trap: Arashiyama Bamboo ParkSundown in Gion District
Osaka and Kyoto are just 15 minutes apart via Shinkansen. So convenient. And from the JR Namba Station near our Osaka crib, we took the rapid express train to Nara Deer Park the next day. Just under an hour. Easy. But not as easy is the trip to Hiroshima and Miyajima. Took the 1.5 hour Shinkansen, the half-hour local train from Hiroshima to Miyajima and finally the 8 minute ferry ride to the island. But hey, if you have the time, and the JR Pass, it’s worth visiting. The pass is good for the Shinkansen, local train and ferry. Just make sure you don’t doze off on the ferry ride or you’d end up making a round trip!
Miyajima IslandNara Deer Park
On our way to Tokyo, we broke our journey in Kyoto for a quick visit to Kiyomizu-dera and to enjoy some Uji matcha delights. Suitcases left in the station’s coin lockers, we were off to take the local train from Kyoto Station to Kiyomizu-gojo via Tofukuji. The uphill climb from Exit 4 took a half hour. The thick crowd we met served no encouragement to truly explore this beautiful temple but we’re not complaining. Time enough for a visit and catching our late afternoon Shinkansen to our next crib, Tokyo. Watch this page for more of our adventures!
This 2022 is a better year judging by how the pandemic woes have eased and how international borders have opened up. Soon after we returned from our Nile cruise early in 2020, we survived a lockdown which saw us cancelling as many as 3 international trips in 2020 and staying in for much of the time throughout 2020-21. Sad news from family and friends we haven’t, couldn’t visit reached us and all we could do was pray and try to stay healthy. My annual visits to my family in Sydney was put on hold until OZ borders opened up in February 2022. I wasted no time and secured a visa to visit Sydney last May 2022. Stayed a good 6 weeks and felt gratitude seeping in that our family is well and in good health.
La Familia. OZ Chapter. It was winter that mid year in Sydney. Lovely to bond with family again, especially since there are just 2 of us sisters in the original branch of the family.
Soon after, it was time to visit a niece now based in Guam. Renewed my US visa to visit this territory in the Northern Pacific and spent a month, thinking there isn’t much to do in this tiny island. I was prepared to get bored and promised not to whinge. Well, I must have done whatever there is to do in Guam from hotel staycations, duty-free shopping, watching a musical, binging on movies in the nearby cinema, trying Chamorro meals, driving and touring around the island, swimming and other water adventures. There were a number of family friends to meet up so there’s aplenty to do and catch up on. Besides, there was a birthday to celebrate!
A day excursion to Bikini IslandAnd a birthday to celebrate!
In between these visits, I made 2 domestic trips. One to holiday in Boracay with dear friends who are my extended family, and another to Cagayan de Oro in Southern Philippines to celebrate a friend’s retirement and birthday. My relationship with these extended families makes me feel so very thankful for their friendship and the bond that ties us forever. Their children are all my godchildren — from baptism to wedding — and our friendship counts decades with the younger members forging an equally strong bond among themselves. This relationship will last beyond our lifetimes!
And then there’s our Fukuoka trip this last month of the year. Not our first time to Kyushu Island in the southern part of Japan, but we were just too eager to travel again as a group. Who cared who was guiding us or where we were going? Destinations hardly mattered. There were just 3 major sights: a garden in autumn foliage, an active volcano and a gorge, and a canal cruise. And onsens and kaiseki in between. Enough. In the company of these travel buddies, we’re good. Fun as always. More fond memories. We are blessed.
When we reached Arden Hotel Aso in Minami-Aso, we didn’t have any high expectations. Lying in a village in Kyushu, Japan, the onsen hotel must have been neglected much throughout the pandemic judging by its peeling wall paint along the corridors. But its vast garden was well-kept and the resident rabbits look well-taken care of. The rooms are very clean though, and the food superb. The kitchen crew must have stayed along with the garden staff. This you can tell by the quality of its kaiseki dinners. As for the onsen and hot spring baths, we had the area nearly all to ourselves. A choice of indoor and outdoor onsen, as the mood dictates. Swell!
Arden Hotel AsoThe Garden is perfect for strolls and meditative breaks. Be prepared to meet the resident rabbits!
In winter, it’s agonizing to decide whether to try the outdoor onsen and hot spring baths or to simply check out the indoor onsen. Just walking from the hotel in yukatas to the spas within the complex — a very short walk, actually — can be an ordeal because of the freezing weather. But the indoor onsen is far from being a poor choice. My only complaint is that I could hardly tolerate the hot temps as I dipped in. That is why the outdoor onsen makes so much sense!
No cams allowed inside so these are photos from the hotel website.
We all enjoyed the onsen prior to dinners and breakfasts while we were here. And in the afternoons soon after our day excursions, the gardens provided some perfect breaks for meditation or just me-times. Our spacious rooms looked out to these gardens and the autumn foliage added much to the garden’s charm. In spring and summer, these gardens seem perfect for weddings. I can imagine round tables littering the beautiful rock garden, the food and cocktails served under the maple trees, a string quartet just around the garden rocks and many rabbits jumping around the lawn.
These are the covered corridors towards the outdoor onsen. Used by both humans and rabbits. Cocktails in spring/summer temps should be good here. This looks out to the garden.
And yes, I mentioned kaiseki dinners. The breakfasts were good too! If one’s skipping the day excursions, staying in for these meals could even be a treat! Our first was topped by Aso beef, a kind of wagyu that may not be of the same quality as your Kobe or Matsusaka beef, but Aso comes from Akaushi cattle raised in this area. You’ve just got to try it!
Aso Beef is this omakase’s highlight! While the Aso beef shabu shabu is good, I was drawn more to the sea bream carpaccio here. And that tempura is really gooooooood!
Takachiho Gorge is one beautiful consequence of an ugly, devastating tragedy that occurred some 90,000 years ago. This natural beauty was formed when Mount Aso erupted, leaving volcanic basalt columns lining the narrow chasm cutting across the Gokase river. The river waters eroded the lava where the rock formation resembles the scales of a dragon and from where a 17- meter high Minainotaki waterfall further enhance this beauty in the Kyushu mountains.
Takachiho GorgeTakachiho Gorge
Mount Aso lies in the middle of the Kyushu Island in Southern Japan. It has five peaks of which Takadake is the massif’s tallest at 1,592 m (5,223 ft) in elevation. This is best viewed from the Mt. Aso National Park. Dotted with several craters, the Mount Aso caldera claims to be the largest in the world, spanning 25 kilometers in length and 18 kilometers in width. Laced with many trails, the area provides several hiking options. Interestingly, there are a few villages and towns within the caldera where one also finds Akaushi cattle and horses. Life here revolves around the Shinto Shrine where festivals are held to honor the volcano.
Aso CalderaA Shinto Shrine
While here, we witnessed a procession of sports cars driven by car aficionados. So many Porsches in a few minutes parked side by side near the Visitors Center. Couldn’t resist having a photo taken. Don’t judge us 🤣
There are several hotels lining Tumon Bay in Guam. The new ones are quite impressive but Dusit Thani Guam Resort is still tops when it comes to the beach scene. We booked a beachfront room overlooking the bay (which spills out to the Philippine Sea) and found the beach scene and sunset views spectacular! Many waited for sunset. We couldn’t get enough of it so we had dinner at the hotel’s Tasi Grill overlooking the beach. On a summer night like this, a mojito hits the spot.
View from the Balcony View from the Hotel Pool
I love the vibe here. Young families on staycation for the weekend. Shuttling between the beach and the lovely pools is a favorite activity. The hotel bar lounge and a restaurant are top hangouts as one sips his fav brew or cocktail. Most waiters are Filipinos, as are the bands. The songs they played are no different from the typical repertoire back in Manila. I tried to cut down on calories by ordering a salad for dinner but we got a complimentary dessert of 2 slices of matcha cake. My favorite. Need I say more?
View from the balcony The Beach At Night
Dusit Thani Guam Resort, and its sister hotel Dusit Beach Resort share the same beach. The hotel facilities include a spa which you pass each time you head out to the pool and the beach. I bet many were lured to have that massage when the spa fragrances wafted through their nostrils. Smelled soooo good! The lobby is dotted with so many nooks and crannies for a quiet drink (which you can take out and around the lobby from the bar) while not straying too far away to enjoy the music from the bar band. And I bet those entertainers are Filipinos too. Great singing.
This kid stands watch while dad & mom enjoy the beach. La vie est belle✨Too bad the pool closes at 7pm
So next time you’re heading this way, try this beachfront hotel. I know. We’re booking this Christmas too!
Hafa Adai! As in “half a day”? But make that the whole day for a more leisurely drive. There’s really no rush but the coastal road brings you from the Philippine Sea to the Pacific Ocean coast. North to South. West to East. Just be sure to bring water or any beverage along with snack food to tide you over since the dining places are not that many. Fret not though since the distances between points are very short. Guam is a tiny island that it’s a chore to manage to get lost!
Liberty. Lone Sailor. Tollai Talaifak. Guam Seal. The Basilica
We started rather early not so much to cover more ground but to beat the sweltering heat. It showers intermittently here but when the sun’s out, it can get uncomfortably hot. From the Liberty Statue, the Lone Sailor, Plaza de España, Two Lovers Monument, historic Tollai (bridge) Talaifak, Cetti Bay Overlook, Magellan Monument, Nuestra Señora de Soledad Fort, Fort Santa Agueda to the Dulce Nombre de Maria Basilica and the Guam Museum. We met, and in fact made friends with, some Japanese and Korean tourists. Young travelers from countries just 2-3 hours flight away. They make car rental a flourishing business here in Guam and I just love how they are partial to top down sports carsin neon colors! In case you are just as inclined, be sure to slather a generous amount of sunblock or BURN!
Nuestra Señora de Soledad Fort in Umatac Bay.
It is fascinating that Guam and the Philippines share similar war histories. Very interesting to note that while Ferdinand Magellan discovered the Philippines on March 16, 1521, his expedition actually made a stopover in Guam 10 days prior. In both the Philippines and Guam, the unholy alliance of government and religion ruled for over 300 years. Both were likewise sold off under the Treaty of Paris toAmerica and both were “abandoned” by US of A and suffered Japanese occupation, only to be later “liberated” by Uncle Sam after heavy bombardment to weed out the Japanese. The timelines are almost the same. And both cultural traditions and national identities heavily damaged by the foreign conquests. Same fate? Forover two centuries too, the 4-month voyage of the Acapulco-Manila Galleon Trademade stopovers in Guam or the Marianas Islands on their return trips to the Philippines. A Magellan Monument stands in Umatac by the bay, a stone’s throw from the Nuestra Señora de Soledad Fort where presumably, the Spaniards kept watch against sea pirates. The sentry tower and cannons in this fort look almost identical to the fort features of their equivalents in Manila and Cebu in Philippines.
Two Lovers Point in Tamuning
Two Lovers Point is a popular seaside cliff that overlooks Tumon Bay and the Philippine Sea. There is a legend of two doomed lovers and their forbidden love that ended with both leaping — with their hair tied together in a single knot — to their deaths here. There are many versions of the story but somehow, the romanticism and tragedy are further amplified by a “heart lock wall” where young pairs write their names on heart-shaped love locks to hang here. Much like those you’d see in Paris, Seoul Tower, Brooklyn Bridge, Rome, etc. Yes, this “sells”. Some distance away and without the crowd, we found this heart-shaped photo opp. Just as romantic, but without the tragic story. 💕😍
The beach scene may not vary much but the hotel facilities and amenities may provide enough variety to make hotel-hopping a worthy pastime. Despite the pandemic, the hospitality industry seems to be thriving and it feels so much like home given that many of the hotel staff are Filipinos who’d readily interact with you in the local language. Tourism may have waned for sometime but slowly picking up as those from the mainland and Asian neighbors are coming. I met many young Koreans, many of whom are students here. The same class of Korean teens whocame to study English in the Philippines. You’d find them booked for weekends in hotels, crowding the infinity pools and having a grand time. They also came ready with their Jack Daniels peeping out of their beach bags as they troop back to their hotel rooms. The balcony scene in most hotels gives a glimpse of their idea of fun.
Night view from the hotel balcony. The Tsubaki Tower
Dining out on weekends is a grand family affair. And hotel restaurants offering buffet lunch and dinner compete for patronage. The Tsubaki Tower ups the ante with unlimited wine and champagne. How can you resist that? Sundown cocktails are another thing. And best of all, there’s a fountain show at certain hours in the evening by the poolside. Unlike other hotels, The Tsubaki’s pool is open till 11pm. Other hotel pools are closed off as early as 7pm.
The Pool scene in the evenings. Fountain Show at Poolside
Cocktails are served either at the bar on the 27th floor or by the poolside. The La Cantina has a wide variety of bubbly spirits and offers a grand view of Tumon Bay. Watch paddlers, kayakers, jet skiers from the bar while sipping your wine and enjoying the soft sounds from the piano and the crooner. Should you opt to enjoy your beer or some other alcoholic drinks by the poolside, time your stay with the music and fountain show. It’s worth the wait.
Unlimited Wine and Champagne at BuffetsChill Nights at the bar
But then again, you may be too tired after an afternoon of water adventures or late night swimming at the pool. Tsubaki’s well-appointed rooms are perfect for relaxing evenings. If you get an Oceanside room, you may even watch the fountain show from the comforts of your balcony. La vie est belle. Life is beautiful!
Every Wednesday, the Chamorro Village comes alive with food booths, children’s rides, curio shops and blaring music from the dance hall. The Chamorros are the indigenous people of the Marianas Islands and likely descended from the Spanish, Mexican, Japanese or Filipinos. Its language has sprinklings of Spanish, as does the Filipino language. Both Chamorro and English are spoken in this Micronesian Island. Yes, Micronesia. Quite apart from Hawaii, which is a Polynesian island. The 2 are on different regions of the Pacific, in fact nearly 4,000 miles apart with Guam resting on the West side of the vast Pacific Ocean. And no, it is NOT among USA’s 50 states. Like Puerto Rico, Guam is a US territory.
Hafa Adai is Chamorro for HelloPricey corn!
This Wednesday, we watched the native Guamanians and some tourists crowding a dance hall. I was surprised to see a fat carabao being paraded around for $3 rides around the village. The children are not the only riders; I found a full grown man enjoying his ride too. Must be a tourist. The booths displayed both food and souvenir items like floral clothes and curio stuff. Corn on the cob served with mayonnaise, bacon and cheese will cost you $7 (!) and other food sold were mostly grilled or barbecued.
Carabao Rides for $3 per person. Crowded on Wednesdays
When we passed the dance hall, an elderly man invited us to enter and join the dancing crowd of mostly locals. We politely said no, and simply watched. There was a good crowd – despite the pandemic-and it’s a good sense of how island life is in this corner of the world. It’s a Wednesday, the middle of the week, but the locals are behaving like it’s the start of the weekend. Judging by how difficult it was to find a parking space, this village must be the “in” meeting place in an island where locals take to the beach by day and dance their “worries” away by night.
Her first solo exhibition was in 2019. That early,her fascination with empowered women spoke through her symbolic “Maria Claras” expressed as modern Filipinas. Through the years, this theme almost always found expression in many of her art works. Somehow evolving, but the message remains and its meaning more clearly professed and manifested. Added in are the iconic abanicos (fans) and the kalachuchi flowers.
A few taking residence in her temporary art studio. In Her Studio
Mona Clara. I remember this as the title of her first painting of a Modern Filipina. Mysterious just like Mona Lisa. “Confused” just like Maria Clara. Maria Clara in today’s language has come to mean either the country’s costume, or describe the traditional, shy, demure, noble and virginal Filipina. It is also one of the main characters in the book “Noli Me Tangere” where she is said to symbolise the state and sad plight of the motherland, our Philippines.
In this artist’s mind, her character MONA CLARA combines the qualities of mystery, tradition, confusion and some traces of humor. Perhaps one can even detect a subversive element. Through the years, the series depicted the Modern Filipina in today’s culture in a very satirical way. The approach and treatment leave the viewer to draw his/her own interpretation. Without question, the artist wittingly invites the viewer to discern a serious message.
LEÓN GALLERYWork In Progress
This 6th solo exhibitionis titled “Redefinition”, which explores, celebrates and challenges what it means to be a Modern Filipina. Using the Filipino terno as a visual device, it is a challenge to the standards set by Maria Clara — by Filipinas themselves, through the brushstrokes of Filipina artist Anna Bautista.
Emblematic of the history of Maria Clara, the Philippine terno has long stood for tradition. These were what a woman was to wear but more than that, what a Filipino woman had to be. It is a living time capsule of the culture,art, fashion, government systems, politics and societal norms that thrived in old Philippine society. Anna believes the Philippine Terno has evolved alongside Filipinas — partly in how it looks, but mainly in what it stands for.
This Fish Market smelt soooo good. I was adamant to put oysters on the bed of my tongue as soon as I landed in Sydney and those cravings just had to be satisfied. I didn’t expect there were so many oyster choices! Good thing our food guru friend’s instructions were simple enough. Get the smallest oysters. Have the Balmain Bugs cooked with Singapore Chili. Then throw in a piece of lobster, calamari, grilled salmon and octopus on skewers, and some sashimi and Kani salad to start with.
Frankly, I couldn’t tell rock oysters from Coffin Bay oysters (yeah, what a name for a bay that yields really good oysters). Nor whether they were sourced from Sydney or Merimbula. I can only tell the Pacific Oysters are the largest, yet nowhere as large as those served to us in San Francisco, California. Enjoyed these appetizers way too much, along with the freshest tuna, salmon, scallops and other fish sashimi. I could have stopped there and gone home real happy but those bugs are still a-cooking! And the salmon and octopus a-grilling!
Balmain Bugs in Singapore ChiliGrilled Salmon and Octopus with Lobster Mornay
Heaven landed in Nicholas Seafood Bar in Sydney Fish Market in Pyrmont. Next to our table is a band of athletic men feasting on scampi and bottles of wine. They were happy to down their alcoholic delights and the scampi was just an excuse to keep their stomach linings warm and not empty. In fact, they hardly touched them as they got busy with their spirits. Not so with us 3 Oriental ladies who feasted on all these lovely seafood finds like there’s no tomorrow.
An hour and a half passed and we were bursting at the seams. Even before we capped our lunch with a cup of our favourite brew, I was already planning on setting this gastronomic treat as a Sydney tradition. Unforgettable. Each morsel a culinary delight. All that for 3 ladies with discerning tastes. Please don’t judge us 🙄
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