Category: Food Trip



Long before the Don Bosco Salesians sold it, we have been dropping by for their yummy and affordable gelato ๐Ÿฆand pasta ๐Ÿdishes. Simply called “Amici”, it was more like your neighborhood cafeteria. You get your tray, line up, and point to the dish you like. The “turo turo” concept was not lost in this cafeteria then run and managed by the Salesian priests. You can order a bowl of sinigang ๐Ÿตor dinuguan to share with a friend, or try the Italian “longganiza” or sausages, or the roast chicken. My favorite then was their roast turkey. Oh yes, they had turkey! Whenever I needed my turkey fix, I get it here without having to buy the whole bird.

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From a simple neighborhood cafeteria, they started selling gelato, then pasta, then pizza. Thanks to the Italian priest managing the place in the early days, my Italian favorites couldn’t be more Italian! The cafeteria set-up meant diners get their own utensils, glasses and pitchers of water. One also orders soda by the liter, to share among friends around the table. The condiments section even included chili flakes, olive oil and Parmesan cheese ….. but not for long.

 

 

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Delish. Not pricey. Where else can you order authentic gelato for P35 a scoop? Or pizza for P240? My favorite aglio olio was then selling for only P115 a plate with ample dollops of Parmesan flakes. You bet more diners came. The lines grew longer. The diners extended beyond the pack of noontime mass goers in the nearby Don Bosco Church. โ›ชThe gelato line up counted more flavors. More cakes ๐Ÿฐadorned the display cabinets.

 

 

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The Salesians may have been surprised about Amici’s instant success. And running a dining place is truly not within their mission. Sold to the same group which used to own Red Ribbon, the place is now called Cara Mia. But to “old timers” like me, it would still be Amici. The place has since abandoned the cafeteria set-up, introduced more Italain dishes, AND UPPED THE PRICES. That’s the sad part. My gelato is now double the original price. And the pasta and pizza now sell for at least 50% more. Service is far better though. And the place is dolled up and looks much neater. They even have branches too. Plus you can phone in your orders for home delivery.

 

 

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After being away for some time, I longed for comfort food and found many here. In fact, I dropped in twice in 3 days and ordered the same stuff. Creatures of habit? Perhaps. but judging by the new desserts line-up, I’m sure to pick up new favorites โ˜บ

 

 

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Amici or Cara Mia is right within the Don Bosco compound near the Church. Entrance via Arnaiz Road (Pasay Road) near the corner of Chino Roces (Pasong Tamo Street). You can park behind the dining place by entering the gate to the Don Bosco Printing Press (between Amici and the gate to the church) or you can park at Waltermart at the corner and just walk to Amici. There is a branch in Ayala Triangle but I much prefer this original place ๐Ÿ˜Š


 

Four months. Four Countries. November 2011 through February 2012. Extended till May 2012. Vietnam. Thailandย . Bhutan. Spain. Each country a delight to visit. Each country with its own distinct, unique cuisine. The languages compete with the culinary delights to render you “tongue-twisted”.

 

 

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It lasted about a week each in Vietnam and Bhutan. And some 4 nights in Bangkok, Thailand. Then all of 10 weeks in Spain. My taste buds were never as confused as they were in the last 4-6 months. But if this is what confusion means, I wouldn’t mind being in that state for a prolonged period. ๐Ÿ˜Š๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜˜

 

 

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Vietnamese cuisine tastes “clean” and subtle. Happily combining Asian flavors with French mastery of the kitchen, the dishes are beautifully plated even if purchased off a corner stall in the market. Besides, Vietnamese dishes are more veggies than meats which lessen one’s guilt but not the pleasure. The same aesthetic value can be said of Thai dishes. The vibrant colors combine so well in every single plate or tray whether they are vegetables, fruits or meats. And the sauces! Each single dish presents a variety of options by way of sauces. Major decisions!

 

 

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The food in Bhutan is an altogether different story. There isn’t much by way of meat choices unless you are craving for yak burgers. Vegetarians would have a field day here in this Himalayan kingdom but the spices are just too much for my liking. But I like their mountain rice and the simplicity of their vegetable dumplings and soups.

 

 

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Aroused by the flavors of the Orient , my taste buds were ready to be assaulted by the varied, meaty, cheesy, olive-oily dishes of Spain. From the very beginning, I knew 10 weeks won’t be long enough to try all 500 or so bacalao dishes. But really, I can’t complain.

 

 

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We tried and compared the churros con chocolate from Chocolateria De San Gines and Valor, we sampled the croquetas and quezos in Mercado de San Miguel, we dined in 101 Tapas in Andalucia, traveled to Valencia for their authentic and original paella, ate not once but twice in Segovia for that cochinillo we’ve dreamed about, relished the morcilla from Burgos and the Leche flan and crema de Catalan of Barcelona.

 

 

So, after 4-6 months….. What do you think am I craving for? Sure I miss those Vietnamese rolls, the pad Thai, momos, Jamon y Quezos . But nothing beats food from home. I shamelessly requested a good friend to cook my favorite pancit, ordered halo-halo in the middle of a board meeting, drove all the way to Binondo for my lumpia and quikiam fix, waited mornings for the taho vendor, emptied my dish of dinuguan and puto in record time, and to this day, still dreaming of bibingka with kesong Puti and my favorite seagrapes (Lato) salad. Pinoy food rocks! ๐Ÿ˜

 

 

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This is a Phlog. That’s short for Photo Blog. Here goes. My life in Madrid in Phlog.

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HOME SWEET HOME


 

 

This is the moment where I take a break from travel blogging. Back home now after 2 and 1/2 months based in Madrid, after 42 blogs on WordPress and 5 more on TravelBlog. I was busy apartment-hunting with my niece, IKEA-shopping for furniture, waiting and wasting lotsa time for the delivery men, and getting serious with household chores. Well, sort of.

 

 

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So, how was it? I never made it out of Madrid in the first 4 weeks. In fact, the first week spent in a hotel was most boring, while the 2nd week apartment-hunting provided the excitement. I did most of my Madrid walks during the first week as there wasn’t much to do in the hotel. Besides, wifi sucks in that hotel.

 

 

The 3rd and 4th weeks were devoted to furnishing the apartment, having the appliances and furniture delivered and assembled. I enjoyed this part. In between, my daily trips were largely to Carrefour, the palenque and the Chinese stores for food and little things like sandwich bags, detergents and other cleaning stuff.

 

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By the 2nd month, we were nicely settled and welcomed our first batch of guests. All girls. No room for men guests as there is only 1 toilet and 1 bedroom. The sofa bed in the living room warmed many backs. My “survival cooking” survived. No one grew hungry, for sure. While we had no TV and wifi yet, we spent a lot of time chatting, laughing and eating.

 

 

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By this time, I have already mastered the metro system, the “free days and viewing hours” of most museums, the bus system and gained “Suki” from the palenque. My favorite vendor is this man who would always offer me a sliver of Jamon or Quezo to try. “Para prober” he always says. And I always gladly accepted. โ˜บโ˜บ

 

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I’ve spent Semana Santa in Andalusia, a long drive to Valencia and a last weekend in Barcelona. In between, there were day trips to Segovia, Avila, El Escorial, Valle de Los Caidos, Toledo, Aranjuez, and Alcala de Henares using the bus, the regional train, or the fast train. I experienced ALL seasons in the last 10 weeks. In Valencia, temp went from 7 Celsius to 27 Celsius in 8 hours. In Segovia, it snowed. Crazy, I know. I have been to Costa del Sol, Malaga and Granada before and felt no craving to revisit. Not yet. I would have wanted to see Salamanca again but there was no chance. Shopping for gifts to bring home took precedence. Perhaps next time.

 

 

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Now I’m home…. in sweltering heat. I miss my daily walks in cool weather. I miss dragging my “old lady’s” shopping trolley whenever I set out to do the groceries or marketing. I miss my pair of boots which I left in the apartment. Back to normal. Back to “Lola mode”. No more solo trips except to the beauty parlor. My elves waited too long and it’s time to catch up with one another.

 

 

Since I arrived, I have completed all my blogs on my Spanish “holiday” (or have I?) and stayed home most of the time. It breaks all newly- formed habits and patterns. I even miss our washing machine in Madrid! Oh well……..


I do not pretend to be a connoisseur, nor am I saying I’ve tried all culinary delights around here. But I dare say that what I have found so far, I LIKE!

 

 

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A trip to Avila meant bringing home some boxes of those yemas and cookies irreverently called “Tetillas de Monja” . Lenten Season meant we should try that Lenten delicacy called “Torrijas” or “Torrejas” —- frankly a cross between a French Toast and a bread pudding.

 

 

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In Segovia, never miss a cochinillo meal at no less than Meson de Candido. They didn’t build a monument for Candido for nothing. It’s only a half hour AVE train ride from Madrid. The cochinillo, the cathedral and the Alcazar are good enough reasons for a day out to Segovia.

 

 

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Of course, one must try the authentic paellas here in Espaรฑa. We tried some when we sat and dined in Plaza Mayor, while watching the crowds in chilly weather. But the best was introduced to us by our foodie friends who brought us to this hole in the wall somewhere in Tres Peces, 20 near the Anton Martin metro station. It is called Ventorillo Murciano.

 

 

A trip to the Mercado de San Miguel is also a must-try. Have your cheese and croqueta fix here. Or grab a drink or two while savoring some boquerones, Jamon, langostinos or some other shellfish. We even found some Chicharon, which they call cucurucho!

 

 

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We checked out Casa Botin, that oldest running restaurant in the world, but there was a long line that Easter Sunday. No problem. The same foodie friends D and J introduced us to another Hemingway favorite haunt. Restaurante Salvador does not serve Botin’s suckling pig (besides, we had our cochinillo fix in Segovia) but it certainly serves the best Rabo de Toro. My friends said this is the same place where matadors hang out after a corrida. And one of them matadors had an affair with no less than Ava Gardner. Whether it was after or during her marriage to Frank Sinatra is debatable. But who cares if one is served bull’s tails for dinner?

 

 

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Now, if you’re on a tight budget…..you don’t have to do Mc Donald’s or KFC here. Do check out some local food chain. There is Museo del Jamon, and there is Paradiso del Jamon. Both serve โ‚ฌ1 bocadillos (sandwiches) and some good ol’ Spanish delicacies from Quezo, Jamon, Callos, Albondigas, Tortilla, etc. You choose!

 

 

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But do save some euros for that churros con chocolate. If you go to the palenque (market), you can have your desayuno (breakfast) of cafe or chocolate WITH either churros or porras (like bicho bicho) for only โ‚ฌ2. Cheaper than a Mc Do breakfast! Or you may want to line up for some freshly-baked breads and pastries (like Garnier’s) but it would be difficult to resist the pastries. At least ONCE, try the churros con chocolate โ˜•in either Chocolateria San Gines off Calle del Arenal near Puerta del Sol, OR Valor near Plaza Callao.

 

Buen Provecho!


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When I think of Segovia, I would always have this fleeting image of a cochinillo in all its shining crispness. I could even almost hear the crackling sound way before that crunchy skin touches my lips. Sure, I’m a glutton without remorse. But let me explain.

 

 

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Back in 2002, I set out on a tour of Spain armed with a long list of must-visit destinations and an equally long list of errr……must-try eats. Among them is the cochinillo at the Meson de Candido. Unfortunately, we landed in Segovia during Lent. On Good Friday at that. Meatless Friday. You don’t know how I’ve always dreamed of that cochinillo all these last 10 years!

 

 

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Sans liver sauce. Sans all those herbs like our Cebu lechon. But it sure tastes gooooood. Ten years of frustration completely wiped out with the first bite! (I’m shameless when it comes to food). So glad we started our tour of Segovia with a “proper lunch”. By the time we were ready to walk around, we were hopping with energy.

 

 

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The 2,000 year old Roman aqueduct is Segovia’s claim to fame. Well, besides the cochinillo of course. Even the Segovians have no pretensions about this and even built a statue to honor Seรฑor Candido. These days, the restaurant is run by Candido’s nephew. Sobrino de Candido. Much like Madrid’s CASA Botin is now called Sobrino de Botin. Which makes me wonder……what happened to the hijos, or hijas?

 

 

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Outside of the cochinillo and ancient aqueduct, Segovia has so much more to offer. Half a day visit doesn’t do it justice. And do get a local guide to walk you through the medieval town. The Segovia Cathedral and Alcazar are must-sees. I was particularly impressed with the icons and sculptures inside the cathedral. Gregorio Fernandez’ “Cristo Yacente” needs sometime to “digest”. Initially, I thought the sculpture lies on a light blue blanket and that a piece of that fabric was likewise placed over parts of Christ’s body. It looked so real, with its many folds, that you wouldn’t think it’s part of the sculpture. If I knew he was this good, I would have paid more attention viewing his art at the Museo de Prado. This tour also introduced me to Juan Juni with his masterful interpretation of “Llanto Sobre Cristo Muerto”. I took close-up shots of the facial expression on one of the statues, showing pure agony.

 

 

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As for the Segovian Alcazar, this is really more than just another royal castle. The architecture and interiors artfully combine Romanesque, Gothic and Mudejar influences. The royal residence was also among the favorites of some monarchs which include Alfonso X, Henry IV and Isabela the Catholic. Within the medieval walls, one also finds former synagogues attesting to earlier Jewish settlements.

 

 

Mind you…..while this is already my 2nd visit, my recollection of the Alcazar was actually limited to the story that the royal castle inspired Walt Disney to design Sleeping Beauty’s castle in that theme park. Easy to forget this petty trivia once you get inside the royal residence. What’s more, you get a lovely view of Segovian landscape from one of the towers. No wonder the former monarchs loved it here!

 

 

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I have earlier blogged on my first desayuno (breakfast) of churros con chocolate here in Madrid. Where else, but in Chocolateria San Gines. There, I reminisced about my first taste of the churros con chocolate “to die for” back in 2002. I remember telling my nephew then that when I grow old, I would love to put up a coffee bar or Chocolateria like this where a corner table will be reserved for me….. much like the owner — an old man and his dog we met back then.

 

 

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When I blogged about getting lost tracing my steps back to Chocolateria San Gines, and actually learning (the hard but delicious way) how easy it could have been to find the place (just off Calle del Arenal, walking from Puerta del Sol), a couple of friends suggested I also try the churros con chocolate at Valor. I did. More than that, I also tried a boxful of Valor chocolates!

 

 

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After more than a couple of weeks setting up house here in Madrid, I finally found time to check out this other chocolate shop. I was surprised to find that it is so near Puerta del Sol. Well actually, much nearer Plaza Callao. A metro ride to Plaza Callao, walking towards Postigo de San Martin, it was delightful to find Chocolateria y Bomboneria Valor.

 

 

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So, what’s the verdict? Admittedly, Valor is “better located” as Chocolateria San Gines is actually in an alley behind the Iglesia San Gines. Surprisingly, I also met 3 Filipinas waiting on tables in Valor. Now, some say Valor’s interiors are better, especially as one can look out to a livelier street scene in this corner off Plaza Callao. True. But I do like the old charm of San Gines.

 

 

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The chocolate in Valor is mas sabroso. But I prefer the churros of San Gines! So if I were to choose between the 2, I would really rather get lost searching for Chocolateria San Gines. So there. โ˜•โ˜•โ˜•

 

 

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Can you blame us? Who goes to Cebu and not try its lechon and chicharon? If the best Cebu lechon comes from Talisay (I know, I know, I’d get lotsa flak writing this), then don’t argue with me when I say the best Chicharon hails from Carcar. Chicharon pa lang, ulam na!

 

 

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It’s more fun in the Philippines, indeed! But make sure you do Visita Iglesia in Saint Catherine of Alexandria Church to spare you from hypertension resulting from cholesterol overload. At the time we visited, the parish was closed. Thus, we appreciated its beauty — styled like most Greek Orthodox churches with onion-domed bell towers — from the outside where we also found many statues of saints adorning the fence around the church.

 

 

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Right beside the church is the Carcar Museum. Yes, a Museum! Well actually, an American-styled dispensary years before and now converted into a lovely Museum complete with various illustrations tracing its history in this heritage capital of the province of Cebu. The Carcar Rotunda is also as American as the Carcar Museum. This white gazebo stands right before the church and the museum, which together comprise a most charming plaza.

 

 

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There was a museum guide who showed us around. The American-era dispensary was actually built in 1929 during the term of Don Mariano Mercado as Mayor. Among other landmarks are the municipal pool behind the Dispensary building, the Carcar Rotunda and the Rizal Monument. If I had my way though, I would replace the statue of Don Mariano with something more “cheerful” or “leader-like”. Call me irreverent but I thought the statue displayed Don Mariano’s shy, even tentative side. ๐Ÿ™‚

 

 

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Where to buy Chicharon? No worries. They’re everywhere! Inside the malls, outside the malls, along the streets, inside your bus or cars! The prices are no different though from the crunchies you can buy back in the city just an hour’s ride away. It is not known though that Carcar was once what Liliw is to Laguna, or Marikina to Rizal (now Metro Manila). Somehow, this 17th century shoemaking industry faded from the scene as competition set in and other industries flourished.

 

 

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Just off the Plaza, and visible from the porch of the Carcar Museum is the town’s oldest house. Owned by Don Florencio Noel, the house is still lived in and is fondly called by Carcaranos as “Dakong Balay” which literally means “big house”. Now declared by the National Historical Institute as a heritage house, the house remains unaltered but lovingly restored and preserved by fourth generation descendants of the Noel family.

 

 

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Cebu is NOT all about lechon. There’s the coveted, sought-after Chicharon from Carcar too! ๐Ÿ˜ Kidding aside, Cebu has much to offer. In between the lechons and the chicharons, its natural wonders and rich history make it a must-destination.

 

 

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Oh, how we indulged ourselves! More so after a NO-TUKI-SIGHTING day in Oslob. Imagine having to wake up at 3am to leave at 4am, cruising the next 3 hours down to Southern Cebu to meet the gentle whale sharks. F.R.U.S.T.R.A.T.I.O.N. Those giants stood us up!

 

 

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Not like us to let this frustration ruin our day, we made good use of our time (and money spent on the hired van) to make a few interesting stopovers on our drive back to Cebu City.

 

 

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Boljoon. Our first stop heading back to the city from Oslob driving along the coast. One of the oldest towns in the Philippines. Strategically located, facing Bohol Strait some 100 kilometers south of Cebu City. The church of Nuestra Seรฑora Patrocinio de Maria, built in 1599 making it the oldest remaining stone church in Cebu, is very well preserved. The Museum adjoining the Church is a pleasant surprise.

 

 

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If I have not read earlier blogs on Boljoon, I would have easily dismissed it as another sleepy town. As we passed this seaside municipality, a huge limestone and granite rock caught our attention — allegedly a cavity formed by the collapse of a mountain range. These natural wonders never fail to amaze me — truly an unplanned composition of water and wind. It is likely that Boljoon may have derived its name from “nabulho”, meaning “collapsed”.

 

 

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I took the stairs and was floored by the vista of the Boljoon Church courtyard framed by mountains. Wow. You don’t get this view every day. Somehow the vista transported me to those times of the frailes. A truly colonial feel. I can almost visualize the frailes doing their paseos in the courtyard or venturing out of the church premises for a grand view of the sea. More than that, the Parish Museum has much to offer – from church vestments, well-preserved parish records and manuscripts dating as far back as the 17th century, to various religious artifacts and archaeological finds. Among these archaeological finds are Japanese porcelain and other artifacts. Since the church compound also has its own burial grounds, skeletons were also unearthed. What all these excavation finds reveal can fill many pages of a book, telling of a rich heritage of an otherwise “sleepy, seaside town”. We never bothered before, but these discoveries now beg our attention. It’s all up to us to make, and cherish, that connection to our past.

 

 

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Our group planned this 3 day, 2 night adventure in Cebu highlighted by a visit to Oslob. This small, heretofore vaguely known town in Southern Cebu hugged the limelight when it was reported that whale sharks — Butanding in Donsol, “tuki” in Cebuย — were discovered. The “feeding” of these friendly gentle giants invited so much attention and excitement that we promptly packed our bags and flew to Cebu. This, even after the disastrous earthquake that rocked Negros and Cebu a few days before our flight.

 

 

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We arranged for a van to pick us up at the new Harold’s Hotel in Cebu City at the ungodly hour of 4am. Having feasted on lechon the day before — the day of our arrival — I hardly slept because of a disturbing headache (which I later learned was actually triggered by a spike in my blood pressure) which deprived me of the needed winks.

 

 

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We tried to catch some sleep in the van as we cruised towards Oslob on that 3 hour drive. Armed with my own life vest, life buoy and snorkeling equipment (all hand carried from Manila), we were ready eager when we arrived 7am in this remote village. The makeshift registration kiosk wasn’t that busy as it was a Thursday and it was just our group, a family, 2 Caucasian couples and a lone Frenchman arranging for a date with the gentle, krill-fed whale sharks.ย 

 

 

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But it was not to be. We waited another 3 hours, content with stories from this local who regaled us with her own adventures feeding the whale sharks. By 10am, we prepared to leave as the “spotters” who rounded up the area several times came back empty-handed. ย Disappointed. Frustrated. Deprived of an adventure dreamed of weeks before. Thank God I was in the company of good (and cheerful) friends with whom a day is never dull nor devoid of “adventure”.

 

 

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Now, WHAT TO DO? The 3 hour return trip was marked by stopovers in Boljoon, Dalaguete, Carcar and Simala. Separate blogs to follow, as each has a story to tell. Tuki or no tuki, we certainly didn’t waste our day! ย When you guys go, better pray you meet them. Pray for good weather. It rained nearly the whole night and early morning of our visit. The whale sharks may have been sooo disturbed by the strong current and choppy waters. ย