Category: Europe


Cinque Terre, Finally

Filed under: Europe, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
May 23, 2024

It’s been on my bucket list for the longest time. Oh well, there’s a lot more in that list and I’m just thinking Italy here. Italy draws me back time and again. It’s always been my happy place and I’m not just thinking food. And since I’m showing first-timer apos around, we did the holy triangle (Venice, Florence, Rome) but I made sure I squeezed in a destination that’s a first visit for all 3 of us. And Cinque Terre it is. Would have loved staying a few nights to explore all 5 villages but time was against us. We did just a day trip and covered only 4 towns: Manarola, Monterosso, Riomaggiore and Vernazza. We’ll check out Corniglia another time. Frankly, I would have been happy with just 2, but doing 2 more is a pleasant bonus.

Vernazza
Manarola

Our tour bus took us on an easy (but early) ride from Florence to La Spezia. Upon arrival, we took brief train rides going from one village to the next. In Manarola, there was a short hike if one were to get a magnificent view of the colorful houses built along the slope of the hill. Many tourists hiked up along a rocky path with railings and some spots presented photo opps . We spent some time here and yes, snapped a lot of photos. Our first set of posterity shots in Cinque Terre! Along the rocky path, we spotted doors presumably leading to residences. I imagined myself coming out of one of those doors opening up to these awesome scenes especially the sunset views.

Monterosso
Riomaggiore

Manarola was our “introduction” to this fabulous place. Can’t believe I missed this place in all my visits to Italy. It’s less than 3 hours from Florence, even nearer than Venice. We love the vibe of all coastal villages. My “beach bum” dream comes into gear whenever we get near any body of water. There is something very relaxing watching the sun rise or set against an ocean or sea view. Or sipping your coffee as the sea breeze wafts through your hair. Gelato stops became the order of the day, and since we are in the Ligurian region, it’s trofie pasta with pesto sauce for lunch. Too bad we failed to try their anchovies! But the seafood salad appetizers made up for it. 😘

You need good strong legs to do this again.

After Manarola, we came upon Vernazza. Easily my favorite town. I love how the “busyness” of the town with bustling street vendors and the lively church by the shore with many small boats not so neatly “parked” side by side, make up a vibrant village replete with al fresco cafes and fruit stalls. It’s like a scene from a movie. The same tourist crowd seems to be charmed by the next 2 lively towns of Monterosso and Riomaggiore. But Monterosso boasts of a longer shoreline, attracting a beach crowd. It was a cold day when we visited but the sun is out so the low temps didn’t deter the younger ones to lay out beach towels and strip to their swimsuits and hit the water. Oh, the recklessness and energy of youth!

Our trip took a solid 12 hours, about 5-6 hours accounted for by the time spent on the bus. It’s like spending just slightly more than an hour in each village. It would be nice to revisit and spend nights in one of the towns. Dilemna is, which town? I’d likely choose Vernazza but one vote went to Monterosso. We all agreed we’d hike up to Corniglia next visit. So there. Ciao!

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Comment

PISA’s Leaning Tower and the Art of Keith Haring

Filed under: art, Europe, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
May 20, 2024

We came for the leaning tower, that iconic landmark of Pisa. But found more. “Tuttomondo” (All World) is one of Keith Haring’s last artworks before he passed away in 1990. The mural is on the rear wall of the Sant’ Antonio Abate church in Pisa, a short distance from the train station. Haring’s famous quote still resonates to this day: “Art should be something that liberates your soul, provokes the imagination and encourages people to go further.” Keith has a penchant for street art and graffiti art, as if searching for an audience that is more akin to the average Joe. In the 80’s, his career yielded 50 “public” artworks bearing social and political undertones. His vibrant works evoke motion and even seem cartoon-ish, a flash of energy represented in colorful and fun symbols, with messages bordering on activism.

We took our time viewing the mural. Huge as it is, we surmised we’d likely spend more minutes just staring at it. Finding this burger place just across it, we decided almost mindlessly to have our lunch there. The glass panels offered an unobstructed view of the mural and so that really worked for us. On full stomachs, we were ready to hop on a bus in search for the iconic tower. There was a big crowd! My first time here was in 1986, and bursting with energy then, I didn’t pass up the chance to climb up. At the time, I think the tower was leaning at a slightly sharper angle. Just a few years after my 1986 visit, experts came to “stabilise” the tower so it was closed to the public for some time. By the time I returned in 2000, it was open again. I visited a few more times: in 2009 and in 2016. So this visit is my 5th!

Art Burger across the Keith Haring Mural

In all of the 5 visits, I lament that I only did day trips from Firenze rather than spending more time to explore the town. I am sure there is more to see. But the tourist crowd turns me off. Also there were so many pickpockets. Apo caught a young girl pulling her bag during the short bus ride. While shopping around the stalls just outside the square, I can sense we weren’t so safe and held on to my purse. While buying train tickets at the machine in the station, there were teens in line ahead of us, trying to chat us up. I would have found that charming under “safer” circumstances but my mood didn’t take me there. A pity. But my radar was up and we simply opted to be more wary.

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,
Comment

Wining 101 in Tuscany

Filed under: Europe, Food Trip, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment

On an excursion from Firenze, we visited Monteriggioni and Chianti and was delighted to receive wine lessons from AGRICOLA POGGIO AI LAGHI where we tasted 4 kinds of wine, oils and balsamic vinegar. It was a wonderful, fun-filled session and everyone in the group thoroughly enjoyed the wine and oil tasting as much as the humorous spiels by the host. They even served us a good pasta dish. It was a penne pasta dish where we were all encouraged to spice it up with their chili pepper olive oil. Not bad. I actually like it despite the fact that the penne came from a box. (Seems we’ve been spoiled, feasting on homemade pasta all our days here in Italy) But I particularly enjoyed their thick, syrupy balsamic vinegar from Modena. Served with toast, but I can imagine it pairing well with some fresh strawberries. Hmmm. But back to wine, we found the winery so warm and welcoming. Quite a sensory experience just by being there, savouring every drop, every sniff, every swirl, every gulp. So very pleasant, indeed!

Cheers!
2 kinds of balsamic vinegar.
Gold spoon or Silver spoon?

The winery caters to special events and parties. I can imagine big birthday and wedding celebrations here. Or corporate events, like a product launch. Must be equipped with a good kitchen, I presume. The set-up is quite impressive. The vineyards extend to the Monteriggioni area, a small commune with an interesting walled settlement dotted with tiny stores and cafes. A small chapel inside must have welcomed some pilgrims doing the Via Francigena as Chianti and Monteriggioni are along the Tuscan parts of the camino. When I saw the brown markers — as contrasted with the yellow and blue markers of the Camino de Santiago de Compostela — I was reminded of my pilgrimage walk some 8 years earlier from Viterbo to the Vatican/Rome.

Entrance to the Winery
The Wine Tasting Room

We may all be familiar with Chianti as a region and as a wine, but not Monteriggioni. When the guide gave us an hour to freely roam around, I thought that wasn’t enough time. Turns out it was really such a small compact commune that an hour is all you need. Yet it presents itself with a decent square, a tiny church, a cafe and a few stores selling local handicraft around the square or from the narrow alleys. Actually I felt I was in one of those Disney “lands”. Except that we had to hike up a decent distance to reach the piazza. Only needed a choo choo train to ferry us around and save some breath. 😩

Tuscany’s landscapes are a feast to the eyes. Coming from Firenze where art permeated the city’s soul, it was nice to breath in fresh air while sipping wine sourced from the vineyards right in front of you. The landscapes framed in the walled commune’s huge, arched gates are so pretty. Imagine this same scenery just before the grapes are harvested. Or when spring flowers are in bloom. Or even the tall, thin cypress trees swaying as the wind blows. Bellissima!

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Comment

A Day in Siena & San Gimignano

Filed under: Europe, Food Trip, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment

Most tourists take this excursion out of Florence to visit Siena and San Gimignano. Did it in 2009; did it again this 2024 with “apos”. Like me, I’m sure they’d enjoy this part of Tuscany. If Florence is a Renaissance city, then it’s all medieval as you reach Siena and San Gimignano. All 3 teeming in art, history and culture. If only for these 3, Tuscany is truly a dream destination. For people like Frances Mayes (author: Under The Tuscan Sun), it even is home. Tuscany. Rolling hills, medieval buildings, breathtaking sceneries. Then throw in the vineyards and good food, and staying is no longer an option but a wonderful decision.

Siena’s Piazza del Campo
Siena Cathedral

The Siena Cathedral is hailed as the prettiest among Italy’s Gothic Cathedrals. The alternating black and white marbles present a unique striped exterior while the interiors hold even more jaw-dropping elegance and beauty, while continuing with the black and white band-striped theme. Che magnifico! I love that this heritage site is devoid of motor vehicles but that can only mean that visitors should be prepared to walk. Somehow, being closed to traffic gives Siena that “frozen in time” charm. Just like Venezia and many parts of Firenze.

Siena’s Lovely Cityscape
Michelin Guide Had This Listed

Our local guide calmly narrated the significance of the piazza and how it is used for horse races called “Palio”. Quite insane, this centuries old race. It’s a horse race, so the winner is the horse, not the jockey. I mean, the unsaddled horse that first crosses the finishing line may be without a jockey and still win. Just 3 laps around the fan-shaped piazza. 10 horses. Approximately, the race lasts 90 seconds. And they hold this pageant twice a year every July 2 and August 16 since the 15th century!

So Medieval
World’s Best Gelato (2024)?

Our luck held out in Siena. The guide recommended where we can enjoy good Cacio y Pepe — Papei Trattoria. Pici Cardinale, and Pappardelle al Cinghiale were likewise excellent! And more luck with our gelato. The ones we had in Siena were good. But the gelato in San Gimignano even better. A sign claims it’s named most popular gelateria in 2024. But 2024 isn’t over yet. Whatever. Not complaining about the gelato though. And over the moon with our lunch at Papei.

“Medieval Manhattan “
San Gimignano’s Box-Like Towers

San Gimignano’s medieval towers from the 12th to the 13th centuries now count over a dozen. A big drop from the more than 70 towers centuries ago when they adorned this Tuscan hill town. The 12th century Collegiata is often mistaken for a cathedral or duomo with its treasure of dramatic frescoes of the New Testament. The towers, the “duomo” , the piazza and the medieval architecture should paint a beautiful silhouette against the skyline at sundown, the way I viewed it back in 2009. No such luck this time. But the elves are happy with their gelato!

Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Comment

No Touristy Stuff in Firenze?

Filed under: Europe, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
May 15, 2024

We had all of 7 days and 6 nights here in Florence. Minus 2 whole days for out-of-town excursions. I stayed in to recharge for 2 whole days while apos visited more museums and met up with friends. I made sure I sent them off to Uffizi Art Gallery and the Medici Museum but interestingly, they also visited the Ferragamo Museum and the Gucci Garden Museum. I remember they enjoyed the Dior Museum in Paris last year. After all, the lines are blurred between art and fashion. On Day 1 here, I joined them viewing Kiefer’s exhibit at the Palazzo Strozzi and the oldest pharmacy in the world. We also passed the piazza where the Duomo is, and we had meals at the Mercato Centrale. Beyond that, their interests seem to lie elsewhere. Just off Palazzo Strozzi is an impressive theater cum bookshop. Cinema Odeon is housed in a Renaissance palace with an amphitheater-like structure where you can claim a seat among stacks of books. We spent a lot of time here, and I’m told they went back the next day without me.

Palazzo Strozzi
Uffizi Gallery

We were all fascinated by the art exhibit we viewed almost on a whim (Kiefer in Palazzo Strozzi) and Cinema Odeon — a very unique bookstore around Piazza Strozzi. So with our random dining finds for best gelato, best pizza, best bistecca, best paninis, best affogato and best rooftop bar. While we decided on our first bistecca at the Mercato, we chanced upon this gelateria which suggested we try this very local flavor called “buontalenti”, named after the inventor of the Italian gelato himself! The movie “Eat, Pray and Love” featured this pizza joint which now proudly hangs a photo of Julia Roberts — and we dare say it isn’t a hype. We actually enjoyed their Napoletania and Primavera pizzas, along with those Italian rice balls called arancino. Dining tips came in handy too from the hotel concierge and we’re glad we heeded Alex’s advice. Missed the ribollita and pasta I had years earlier in Trattoria ZaZa and Trattoria Garibaldi, but we totally enjoyed our dinners at Trattoria il Giardino (loved the Tuscan coccoli) and Trattoria Burrasca (best bistecca!). As for happy hours, nothing beats sipping rosé at sundown in Art on View Rooftop Bar. If this all sounds to you like a food trip, it seriously is. The same DNA runs in their veins, after all.

View on Art Rooftop bar.
The Duomo

The days I wasn’t with them, they went for quick lunches at All’ Antico Vinaio. And ate more gelato. They also swore they had the best affogato in Vivoli and promised to take me there. And I swear they were not lying! I offered to take them around the historic center to check out spots they missed but these 2 had other interests. Told you 😜 A food trip in Italy? Not a bad idea. As for me, I’m ready for our out-of-town excursions. Makes life simpler just hopping in a bus to take us to touristy spots with a laid-out itinerary guided by a tour director. No bus or train tickets to buy. No lunch reservations to book. And I ensure these 2 learn some history outside of the dining scene. Ciao!

Best Affogato!

Tags: , , , , , , , ,
Comment

Post-Biennale, Off to Firenze

Filed under: Europe, Food Trip, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
May 13, 2024

By noontime, we trooped to Mestre Train Station for our ride to Florence. Made sure our trip has 0 stops as I doubt we have the energy to switch trains and drag our big bags. We were famished by the time we reached Firenze SMN Station. Our apartment is just off the Basilica Di Santa Maria Novella but it took all of our energy to walk with our luggage in tow. Having checked in, we fell in love with our apartment. With 6 nights to spend here, I’ve decided to stay in for a much-needed rest to recover my sapped energy, do the laundry (3 weeks load!) and send off the apos to make other arrangements like meet some friends, hit more art galleries, do shopping or whatever else in the next 2 days. The NEXT couple of days. Today, some introductions are in order.

Basilica of Santa Maria Novella
The oldest pharmacy — now perfumery — in the world.

As soon as we loaded the first batch of laundry into the washing machine, we took off. Very near our apartment is the oldest running pharmacy in Florence, and in the world: the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella. It all started in 1221 with Dominican friars developing a botanical garden of plants and herbs to produce healing ointments, balms and other medicines. Over time, the concoctions produced perfumes which counted royalties and prominent families among its clients. We sniffed around — and liked the scents but didn’t end up buying any. From this pharmacy, we walked a few blocks to reach Palazzo Strozzi where we promptly bought tickets to view Anselm Kiefer’s exhibit “Fallen Angels”. Very impressive. Not our first impression though, but his art grows on you as you spend more time with the artworks.

Kiefer’s “Fallen Angels” in Palazzo Strozzi

On our first day in Florence, we passed the Piazza Di Santa Maria Novella, visited the world’s oldest pharmacy, viewed an art exhibit, admired the magnificent Duomo, chanced upon the Odeon Theater cum Bookshop, and ended up in Mercato Centrale for dinner. We wanted to eat in the nearby trattorias but we were so hungry that we found the long lines frustrating. And so, we had our first bistecca florentina at the Mercato. Rarely that we dined without any conversation, but this is one moment. We devoured the Chianina beef like there’s no tomorrow. Gelato for a good finish and we had the best flavor ever — buontalenti, named after Bernardo Buontalenti, the Florentine inventor of Gelato.

Bistecca alla Florentina
Gelato
Mercato Centrale

Having crossed 3 timezones, I looked forward to the next 2 days of doing nothing. Well, not exactly nothing. Like a doting abuela, I did the laundry and even cooked dinner. I also managed to book excursions for the next 2 days : one to Cinque Terre and another day trip to visit Siena, San Gimignano, Chianti and Monteriggioni. Plus a dinner booking at a nearby Trattoria il Giardino. Nieto y Nieta were on their own the first 2 whole days in Firenze, meeting their Abuela only for dinner either at the apartment (for a home cooked meal) or in a nearby trattoria. We did return to the Mercato Centrale to buy dinner to eat in the apartment. Even the young get exhausted as they preferred to stay in in the apartment that became our cozy home for a week. And they’re only on their second week while their Abuela has already clocked 6 weeks. 😜

More to write about Firenze. Wait for the next blog.

Good pasta, osso buco and coccoli
Soft music on a chilly night.
I’m on holiday 💤
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Comment

Last Seat to Venice

Filed under: art, Europe, Italy, Musings & Ramblings, Travel, travels — Leave a comment

The original plan was just Chile and Peru either via California or Sydney. Choosing the latter, it was a no brainer to fly ahead and spend some weeks there to be with family. And then the Venice exhibit of Nieta popped up. Of course, we had to be there! But there’s the business of visas and bookings. And I’d be on my last couple of days in Peru when the vernissage and exhibit opening happens. Apos would have to go on their own while their abuela arranges to later join them. My brain matter was all over the place. Temporary hotel bookings were made but the flights out of Lima, Peru didn’t offer many options. That last seat was non-refundable and non-rebookable. Take it or leave it. I took it. Problem is I’d be flying from Puno to Lima, Peru a day prior on LatAm and based on my previous experiences, this airline wasn’t the most reliable. Sweeping all anxieties aside, I crossed my fingers and prayed for a seamless flight out of Lima to arrive in time for the Venice Biennale 2024 exhibit opening.

Touchdown, Venezia!
Around Venice

The Iberia flight out of Lima had a Madrid stopover. I was tempted to enjoy some churros or tapas with Rioja but chose to remain sober and clear-minded for the connecting flight. Can’t miss this connection. Anxieties spilling all over, overflowing. Thankfully, the flight was uneventful and so was the airport shuttle I took for Mestre Station near our hotel in Venice. Oh, did I tell you? The hotel I booked in Venice near the exhibit venue cancelled our booking. A major headache since the Venice Biennale 2024 was already in full swing and most hotels are either fully booked or if available, at outrageous rates! Because my apos will arrive some days before me, I wanted to make sure they have reliable hotel bookings and that being first-timers in Venezia, they will easily find their hotel. Venice being Venice, it isn’t easy wandering around this car-less city and dragging luggage from one vaporetto station to the next. So Mestre was our choice. And what a relief hearing these 2 apos calling out to me as soon as I got off the shuttle at the Mestre train station. All’s well. We’re together now. And as soon as I dropped off my bag in our hotel, we took off for lunch and the exhibit.

Lunch was here.

After lunch, we proceeded to Palazzo Mora to view apo’s “From Here, To There” artwork. I may have missed the cocktail reception for the artists and invited friends, but I got here in time for the public opening. Said a Thanksgiving prayer, as I felt my heart swell with pride and love. Not just for apo’s piece but also for the 11 artworks of other participating Filipino visual artists included in this exhibition in Venezia. So proud of all of them. I was nearly dancing out of Palazzo Mora when done, and celebrated with apos with a gondola ride to imbibe Venetian vibes and savor every moment of this magical moment. The gondolier sang us a beautiful Italian song — not the typical O Sole Mio or Santa Lucia, but it was beautiful and so soothing on an exciting day like this one. Our nerves calmed, we hopped out of the gondola to wander around St. Mark’s Square, Bridge of Sighs and the Rialto Bridge.

Dreams do come true.
I cried just viewing Nieta’s artwork in Palazzo Mora.
Our Gondola Ride

While apos have been here some days before me, I spent only a night here as we’ve decided to train out the next day for our next base for Tuscan excursions in Firenze. It’s my 5th visit here but felt like it was my 1st as I saw Venice through Nieto y Nieta’s perspectives. We wandered around while enjoying our gelatos and rode the vaporettos with the locals. All in a half day. By sundown, I was ready to drop. Bushed. Can’t even remember where we had dinner. I only managed to take a bath and pull out my sleeping garment and next-day wardrobe for the train ride to Florence. Mercifully, the train leaves noontime so we were all able to sleep in the whole morning. 💤

Posterity Shot at Piazza San Marco

Arrivederci, Venezia

Tags: , , , , , , , , ,
Comment

Elsewhere In Paris (2023)

Filed under: Europe, Travel, travels — Leave a comment
June 12, 2023

Who grows tired of Paris? There’s always something else to discover, to explore, to enjoy in this city. I think it’s my 7th time around Paris but this is my 1st time stepping into Eglise Saint Sulpice. It’s the 2nd largest church in Paris next to the Notre Dame Cathedral, but I suspect it became more popular because of the Da Vinci Code, a bestseller by Dan Brown turned into a movie topbilled by Tom Hanks. You remember the book? Or the blockbuster movie? I’m not sure if they still run “Da Vinci Code” tours 20 years after, but it sure was a popular thing to do then. And quite naturally, the tours started with a visit here, notwithstanding that the film company was never allowed to film here. The movie’s starting scene was actually shot in a Hollywood studio. All because Dan Brown sparked controversy with his claims that the Church insists aren’t founded on history and the bible truth.

Eglise Saint Sulpice in the Latin Quarter
On our way to Luxembourg Gardens, we stopped here for lunch. Our last lunch in Paris and on this trip. 🥲

Church visit done; lunch at Cafe Tournon. This being our last full day in Paris, we decided on a proper French lunch. I think we chose well and got lucky with a very accommodating crew. We likewise decided to separate so the young adults can meet up with friends while grandma goes to her favorite chapel. That means the hip Cafe Kitsune for the young ones and the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal at Rue du Bac for Mamu.

Lunch at Cafe Tournon
Meet-ups with Childhood Friends

Every time I visit Paris, I always try to come here. But it was closed when I got there and would reopen at 2:30 pm yet. There was a good hour to waste. I did remember there was a nearby Bon Marché Store with a marvellous gourmet food section. Next block; just across the street. I remember some random food finds here which I brought home for friends and family. Like always, good food excites me as it did while I navigated around the shelves and food sections in Bon Marche’s gourmet area. Some pâté here, fresh strawberries and peaches there, big, fat white asparagus about to go off season, some maché and rocket for my salad, and an assortment of bread and pastries. A happy place! Before I knew it, it was past 2:30 pm so I promptly paid and headed back to the chapel. Before long, I was at the metro station and got off at Liege near Rue du Moscou. Looked around the apartment, packed my bags for next day’s departure, prepared some salad and ate while staring out the window. I can bring these memories home so I want to remember them well. La vie est belle!

Chapel of Miraculous Medal at Rue du Bac
We are only 3 but nieto deserves 2 servings.
View from our Apartment Window
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Comment

A Couple More Musée in Paris

Filed under: Europe, Travel, travels — Leave a comment

In our last few days in Paris, we hit 2 more museums. First off, Musée de l’Orangerie in the Jardin des Tuileries. Housed in an iconic edifice on the western section of the Tuileries garden, this was our chance to view Monet’s famous eight Water Lilies mural. Monet painted water lilies for well over 30 years till his death at 86. His lily pond in Giverny where he lived provided much inspiration resulting in over 300 artworks. Some in large format like the egg-shaped hall where a colossal mural greets you. For the first time since we landed in Europe, I wanted to shh shhh the crowds milling around the murals. It would have been nice to sit in the center of that hall to appreciate these huge works of Monet. Alas, it was noisy, and too crowded.

The 8 panels were Monet’s gift to the State, to be displayed based on his very specific conditions and design. Done just a few years before his death, but finally displayed only after he passed on. These panels are significant considering that Monet suffered from failing vision years before he died, so much so that he even had to label the colors of his paint tubes. He also painted other subjects, but still mostly from his gardens in Giverny. After all, the artist indulged in gardening as a favorite pastime and he loved painting outdoors.

By the time we moved to Musée d’Orsay, we were growing tired and frankly, overwhelmed. Too much stimulation from the first museum visit, the walks under the sun, crossing the Seine and struggling with the heat. It didn’t help that we were made to line up outside without shade even though our ticket specified a time for the visit. When we got in, we passed most everyone and decided to start on the upper floors first. Besides, the Van Gogh pieces were there.

Next, we went in search of Rodin. I earlier intended to bring them to Musée Rodin but there wasn’t enough time. Wow, Musée d’ Orsay is really huge. Some actually prefer it to the Louvre and I don’t blame them. I do like Orsay too especially since it has a really nice cafe inside and the ex-train station building is kind of a romantic setting for this museum. Not to forget, it also has a lot of nooks and quiet corners with stone benches where one can sit it out and rest! We called it a day after 2 hours. Guess we didn’t do justice to these museum visits. But our energy levels are really low now, having been “on the go” the last 3 weeks. I haven’t really counted but I suspect we’ve done at least 15 museums on this trip. The major art galleries should be around 7 or 8. Wow. We need to sit it out in the park now or head back to our apartment for a quick pre-sleep sleep. Or maybe we should hit the bar to celebrate 🥂 🤣

The Cafe inside the museum. Look at that huge clock, often a feature of train terminals.
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,
Comment

Back in Montmartre, Paris

Filed under: Europe, Travel, travels — 2 Comments
June 11, 2023

My first time in Montmartre was unplanned. I was in a conference in London in 2003 and a friend invited me to stay with her while exhausting the remaining lease on her daughter’s flat in Paris. I said yes, and so did another friend who trained in from Zurich. The 3 of us spent dinner nights between Montmartre and Saint Germain des Pres and had an immensely wonderful time. In 2017, I brought my nieta here but only for a night. It was a chilly night so the artists left the square in Place Du Tertre earlier. The “painters’ neighborhood” was without painters that night it threatened to snow. So here we are, back again, with all the sunshine we need on this spring-soon transforming into summer Paris day.

Last time we had a meal in La Bonne Franquette.
This time at Le Consulat.
Coffee and Dessert at La Maison Rose or the
Pink House in Montmartre.
The “painters’ neighborhood” in Place Du Tertre.

Montmartre has many cafes and bistros. If you’ve been watching Amelie and Emily in Paris, the winding streets and hilly paths here would seem familiar to you. Le Consulat and La Bonne Franquette are both hangouts of many artists centuries ago, like Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Picasso, to name a few. Some have even set up studios here. And actually lived here, like Van Gogh and Dalí. In one corner, you’d find Espace Dalí where you’d find 300 of his works from a private collection of Beniamino Levi. Levi was one of Salvador Dali’s art collectors and art dealers. He intended to make popular then Dali’s sculptures and engravings aside from his paintings. This gallery is worth a visit if you’re a Dalí fan.

Espace Dali in Montmartre
From Le Consulat where we had lunch, it was a short walk to the Pink House in one direction and the Espace Dali in the opposite direction.

So next time you visit SACRE COEUR Basilica, take a few more steps towards Place Du Tertre (if you’re a Filipino, it’s easy to remember this place that bears a name that sounds like one ex-Prez) to find centuries-old bistros frequented by many artists, poets and novelists. The coffee scene in the Saint Germain des Pres may be great but Montmartre has a number of good cafes too. And for tourists, the souvenir shops here may be more reasonably-priced, methinks.

Montmartre teeming with locals and tourists!
Off Abbesses Metro Station.
(I prefer getting off at Anvers)
Tags: , , , , , , , , , , ,
Comment