lifeisacelebration

Back in 2017, I planned to walk from Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP) to Roncesvalles via the Napoleon Route. Unfortunately, that route was closed off due to weather conditions and I instead walked via the Valcarlos route. While I enjoyed this first leg of the Camino Frances, I felt cheated of what is claimed to be the most scenic route crossing the Pyrenees from the French border into the Spanish town of Roncesvalles. And so, I decided I’d give it another try after 8 years. My hair has since turned grey and the young friends I’ve met from the Express Bourricot transport office have matured and ready to build their young families. For a village of 1,500 French-Basque residents, I love the fact that most anyone know everyone.

We booked a lovely apartment for 4 nights in Saint Jean Pied de Port (SJPP). The idea is to walk for 3 days, but stay in the same place. That means we get fetched/transported back to our flat after each day’s walk, and next day driven back to the point where we were earlier fetched to pick up where we left off. Sounds neat. Saves us the trouble of packing & unpacking and sleeping on different beds every night. Also, I like the idea of having a “home” even for 4 nights — with ref and pantry adequately stocked with fruits and groceries. We also love doing the laundry! 

A day before our departure for SJPP, I got an email from Alicia (who runs the apartment) that SJPP experienced some heavy rainstorms and our rooms got flooded. Major headache, as it was too late to look for a sub. Alicia was kind enough to book a replacement apartment only 150 meters away. Trusted her completely and crossed my fingers there wouldn’t be any further issues. As it turned out, we got 2 very roomy flats, each modestly but sufficiently equipped. The best part is it’s only a few meters from the gate towards the start of the Chemin de Saint Jacques (Camino) and right across it, an artisan boulanger patissier operates a shop from where the aroma of freshly-baked breads wafts through the misty air of this French basque village. 

Every morning, we step out meeting other pilgrims buying their baguette from the vendo machine in front of the boulangerie. It’s like a ritual before setting off on the Camino. And by day’s end, some old folks sit by the bench munching their pastries with their espressos or chocolat. After a day’s walk, I enjoy opening our windows and peeking down, people-watching, while my beef steak or pork sinigang stews. A whole roast chicken for 3 pax too. Fresh white asparagus, mushrooms , iceberg lettuces and the stoutest bean sprouts completed most of our dinners. And those passing pelegrins must have sniffed the steamed rice from our kitchen! All that walking revved up our appetites and nothing beats eating our local dishes. Unlike in Barcelona and Pamplona, we only went out for coffee and pastries here in SJPP. Real meals devoured in our flats on a dining table by the kitchenette. 

We started walking a day after we arrived. Got our pilgrim passports, shopped for groceries and visited the village church on the day we arrived. Also tried some shopping. The flats felt like home, especially after taking out of our luggage and hanging out our clothes for the next 4 days. Since it’s been raining the few days before our arrival, we took out our raincoats but prayed we’d be blessed with good sunny weather during our walks. Read what happened in the next blog 😉