It sounds nearly arrogant to say “Been here; done that” but I must confess that the enthusiasm before this trip wasn’t at par with my first visit in 1996. Just the same, being with friends give it a whole new dimension and in particular, I looked forward to sailing, without care, just chilling. It didn’t matter if I were to miss some sites included in our offshore excursions. I’ve seen them before and doubt if much has changed since. But I’m curious to just sail, watching life unfold. Slowly. Unhurriedly. And with my time-tested travel buddies. Besides, this is my first trip in 5 months and I’m eager to travel again. Anywhere.


Back in 1996, it was hot and humid with temps hitting high 40’s in May. This time, it’s cool during the day at 15-22C and even cooler as the sun sets and the wind blows. February is a good month to visit Egypt. And having this riverboat all to ourselves clinches the fun element of this trip. Our group of 16 would go up the deck to read, chat, drink and eat — donned in bathrobes — and just while away the time in between the 2 activities slated for each day. Each activity is a lesson in ancient history, just enough to stimulate our mental faculties. And a bit of physical exertion, just to check if those sweat glands are still functioning. Ahem.


Life by the riverbank varies by the season. When I first visited, summer meant watching children play, swim and bathe in the Nile. It was also teeming with wildlife especially cattle while some fisherfolks are busy sinking their hooks. This winter, there is hardly any activity along the Nile except for those feluccas doing business ferrying passengers crossing the river, or going to riverside restaurants. It gets even busier come sundown when tourists go for sunset rides on sailboats. Curiously, there are also the more enterprising boatmen selling wares to cruisers like us. Right there along the Nile. They’d say “hello, hello” at the top of their lungs while we’re at the deck. As we look down, they display their wares and manage to toss up their goods for our scrutiny. The haggling begins and some minutes later, hard currencies are dropped. Swell.


Cruising clears one’s mind of many cobwebs. Just watching the scenery change ever so slowly puts one’s spirit at rest. It’s like a movie set in slow motion. In the beginning, I’d claim a corner up in the deck and say my prayers. Attempts at meditation. But the ever solicitous staff and your travel companions can easily engage you any moment. So I had my quiet moments inside my cabin instead, staring out the wide window by the bed watching Nile life unfold and while enjoying the melodious ripple of the water as the sailboat slowly sliced forward. How precious. On this trip, I slept a good 3 hours earlier than my usual past midnight knock off. I haven’t done that in a very long time. Aaaaahhhh, the sweet life!

