Back in Manila, we’d schedule our cafe or bar dates at least once a week. The prospect thrills us and the actual experience is always a delight. On our trip to Sapa in Northern Vietnam, we spent an entire afternoon for our post-lunch cafe crawl. We haven’t had a proper dessert since we got here but first off, we just had to try the popular egg coffee and coconut coffee.
Cong CafeCoconut Coffee now tops my list of iced coffees
This is our first time to try coconut coffee. Cong Ca Phe is 👍that we recommend it — iced! More dessert than coffee, actually. Back in Hanoi, we tried egg coffee but it wasn’t the best so we went in search of good egg coffee here in Sapa. Found one in Le Gecko. In both coffee shops, we took “front seats” to appreciate the street scene. People-watching can be habitual if I were to live here. The cars and motorbikes with passengers or cargo (unbelievable!) passing by is what life is all about here. Sapa may be 6 hours away from cosmopolitan Hanoi but it certainly isn’t a sleepy town or ghost town. Sure, it’s in the boondocks but commerce and tourism has touched this mountain town and even the hill tribe folks are quite comfortable plying their wares in the streets here.
The street scene from Cong Ca Phe. Inside Cong Ca Phe
Cong Ca Phe is in a two-storey building, but the best seats in the shop are those in the porch. There is even a resident fur baby who seems so “at home” here. As for Le Gecko Cafe, it’s in another busy section of this mountain town near the pond area. Again, we took the “front seats” from where we enjoyed our egg coffee and an apple crumble pie.So yum! The egg coffee here is more dense, foamy and frothy than the one we tried in Hanoi. So so good that we actually thought of heading back after our dinner!
El GeckoEgg CoffeeOh, that apple crumble!
P.S. We actually trooped back the following day for another iced coconut cafe and to try the Cot Dua Com Xanh or Coconut Green Rice Coffee. So so refreshingly good!
We are actually headed for Sapa in Northern Vietnam, some 5-6 hours away from Hanoi. But there’s time enough to check out some Hanoi eats before the “nature trip” up North starting with this Hanoi signature dish called Cha Ca. Served with dill, spring onions and vermicelli, this turmeric fish is a classic. Cha Ca La Vong is its full title but in Hanoi, they simply call it Cha Ca. One of the popular restos serving this Hanoi specialty is just right across our hotel. The Cha Ca Thang Long Restaurant in the Old Quarter of Hanoi has 3 outlets IN THE SAME STREET but the one across our Hotel Peridot has a tiny, narrow courtyard leading to a two- storey French-inspired structure in faded yellow hues. The main ingredient is the grilled catfish marinated in turmeric and cooked with dill and spring onions right on the table. We were taught to fill our individual bowls with vermicelli before spooning in the turmeric fish with dill and other herbs like coriander and mint. There were also peanuts one can throw in with some fish sauce mixture to taste.
Cha Ca Vermicelli goes into bowl first, then spoon in the fish and herbs. Next, throw in the nuts and some sauce.
If you’re dining here, don’t think there are many menu options. People come here really for the Cha Ca dish. You may order some fried rolls just for variety but I didn’t find them particularly good. The Hanoi beer is a good accompaniment, or you can go for some tea instead. This is not my first time in Hanoi but it’s my first time to try this Hanoi dish.
Egg Coffee Hanoi Beer
Post-Chaka lunch, we trooped to the cafe a few meters away to try the EGG COFFEE. Introduced way back in 1940s during the French war, egg as a milk substitute just burst out as the perfect remedy at a time when milk was in truly serious shortage. I can’t say I was floored, but under the conditions when it was resorted to, I bet it was a hit! Now a popular Vietnamese coffee aside from that which uses condensed milk, the egg coffee is bold, foamy, dense, and syrupy. Best spooned than sipped. Almost like a dessert. An experience, if you like.
Rolls and Prawn Pad ThaiChicken in Skewers
After Sapa, we’d stop by Hanoi again before flying out. Let’s see how we make out in the dining department. In the same hotel where we stayed, I wouldn’t mind repeating some of the dishes we enjoyed in the lovely Grand Peridot Boutique Hotel. Not exactly traditional Vietnamese cuisine, but the prawn pad Thai, rolls and chicken in skewers made for a delightful dinner with all the theatrics in presentation, capped by a dramatic cocktail concoction. Xin Chao!
Once you cross 50 years since graduation, you treasure every moment, every minute, every get-together not knowing when the next one would be. Nor who’d be around at the next reunion. This sentiment prompted many based abroad to come home, and for the core organisers to line up as many events. Any excuse to see each other in the limited time everyone is around. Amazingly, the adrenaline of seeing each other again must have pumped up these “energiser bunnies” as every event, every single affair proved to be well-attended, well- organised, and superbly enjoyed! Best of all, that very same energy pushed these senior ladies to brave the long drive to LAIYA, San Juan in BATANGAS and to pull an overnighter in this wonderful paradise of a beach resort.
As one rolls into their 70’s, the service demands grow several notches higher. Food, customer service, cleanliness, convenience and leisure/entertainment option all become mandatory rather than simple wish lists. It would be a nightmare to fail their standards. But The Resthouse truly delivered. The 9-hectare beachfront estate provided the sea breeze, stillness, tranquility and scenic views to soothe the nerves after long drives. The memory of a beach affair among giggly, life-loving, cheerfuland cool, rocking grandmas is a gift made possible by The Resthouse management and staff. Five stars won’t suffice. And the fond memories will last for a very long time.
Thank you, The Resthouse, for granting our wish of this lifetime memory. We treasure our time spent in this slice of heaven on earth. Till our next gathering there!
From Hanoi, it took at least 6 long hours to reach Sapa in Northern Vietnam. We traveled by bus although there’s a train option. We passed many rice terraces and cinnamon forests along the uphill route. Lunch was way past noon and we finally arrived at Pao’s Sapa Leisure Hotel late in the afternoon. Well before sunset, thankfully. And without the rains despite the weather forecast.
View From Pao’s Sapa Leisure HotelRice Terraces of Sapa
Honestly, I expected a sleepy, ghost town far removed from the commercial entrapments of city life. We were surprised to find Sapa teeming with tourists — both locals and foreigners. As it turned out, our visit was timed a few days before this mountain town’s Culture Week celebrating the 120th year of tourism. Attracting as many as 2 million visitors , this town in the northern mountainous province of Lào Cai is bursting with preparations for the festivities and art performances of various ethnic groups. The town square where the Church takes center stage was teeming with people and littered with ambulant vendors.
View from our room’s terrace. 8pm Crowd at Town Square
One can feel the energy building up in the tiny stores lining the narrow streets and the mall housing the train station. It reminded us of “Sagada” back home as well as gave us “Baguio vibes”. The costumes from the hill villages provided local color and tribal feel. It took some dodging skills not to be trapped in the thick crowd as we navigated our way through the town squareand narrow streets. Music was blaring from the many food shops and bars sitting side by side with massage parlours offering foot, back or whole body massage. Tempting!
Photo Credits: May B. Sun Plaza in Sapa
We ditched our ride back to the hotel when we decided to walk but eventually hailed a buggy cart for as many as a dozen people to save our energy. We checked out the hotel outlets in search of desserts but only managed to order via room service. Called it a night for next day’s adventure. Let’s see what is in store for us when we next visit the Bac Ha Sunday Market some distance away.
Terrace of the restaurant where we had dinner.Garbed in local costume, near the Church.
The Bac Ha Market some 3 hour drive from Sapa totally overwhelmed me. But what’s most interesting isn’t so much what they sell but how the hill tribes of Northern Vietnam have created a community here. The Flower H’Mong, the Phu La, the Black Dao, Tay and La Chi Nhung minorities. How to tell one tribe from another? Don’t ask me 🧐
The forecast was one rainy WEEK, but we’ve been enjoying sunshine since we reached Sapa here in Northwestern Vietnam. On the day we visited this Sunday Market, it was totally humid. The animal trading — horse, buffalo, dogs, etc — wasn’t my cup of tea. So my travel mates and I spent more time in the fabrics/textiles area. Along the way, we passed some organic plants, herbs, nuts and fruits. There was a display of assorted natural “viagra” and the sales pitch is one for the books. We chanced upon a couple on a mission to stock up on a few of these herbs and the entire sales spiel was quite an entertaining spectacle. 😜
Local Color To The Core
The once-a-week market is truly both a community and commercial affair — a social and trading event that has lasted over a century now. It’s a privilege to witness this exotic cultural experience. The open, outdoor market stretches over an expanse that it would be easy to get disoriented. In particular, I enjoyed the local color and flavor such as finding a “barber shop al fresco”. It’s your mobile barber in action! Or a motorbiker with a basket full of chickens. I didn’t have the heart to try horse stew there though. Not for moí. Sorry.
Bac Ha Sunday MarketBarber Shop?
After lunch somewhere within the Sunday Market’s periphery, we headed for the Ban Pho village just a few minutes away. Corn wine was available but I took one sniff of the stuff and promptly avoided it. Must be over 50% alcohol, enough to knock one out after a few sips. If you ask me, you can give this visit a miss. The market is quite interesting even if some of the products can be found in the town and city malls, but the local color and experience cannot be replicated in the more cosmo and commercial spots. Nor the local herbs and ethnic vibes. The locals are also very friendly yet not pushy to make a sale which I like. The “pros” in the city shops give me a headache, actually. I’m glad we came despite enduring 6 hours on the road. Along the way, we also checked out the Vietnam/China Border. Separated only by a river, it’s amazing how these “neighbors” can literally wave to each other across the river. 👋
Too much excitement in one day! The Fansipan adventure involved cable car and funicular rides to reach Fansipan Mountain, the highest mountain in Vietnam. Touted as the “roof of IndoChina”, it is actually higher than Machu Picchu at over 3,000 meters. Hoang Lien Son mountain range spans the horizon as the cable car climbs up to the peak. Once there, some 600 steps await you. Along the way, there are temples, outdoor Buddhas and restos. One can even ride horses in the complex run and operated by Sun World Legend. We were a big group of adventurers who endured the long drive from Hanoi to Sapa just to get here. Seniors, young professionals and toddlers all out to enjoy each other’s company and savor the sense of family we’ve come to adopt, having traveled together way too many times and seeing the family grow.
The Fansipan Complex is huge! The cable car and funicular rides are run efficiently and the dining outlets and food courts within the entire park look promising. There are also snack booths and massage chairs to fill up one’s time and the crowds seem to be manageable. The entire time we were here, the day grew from cloudy to sunny back to sunny with some breeze. Luckily it didn’t rain. Just a slight drizzle.
Fansipan Funicular
Easily, one can spend 3 hours or more here. Longer, if you linger over lunch or snacks or if one is doing the temples. The ride to the peak via the funicular can be crowded and once at the top, it is quite magical to see, even feel, the fog envelop the area where one finds the tallest flagstaff of IndoChina. Be warned though : it can get windy and cooler once you reach the top so be sure to wrap up.
Glass-Bottomed Bridge
After Farsipan, we took on another challenge. The Bach Long Glass-Bottomed Bridge is touted as the longest in the whole world. Not one for the weak of heart. Nor one short of patience. We took too many transfers — 2 short van rides, an elevator that took all of 3 minutes, along with some waiting time in between transfers. Now, this phenomenal structure left us confused and inconvenienced. There are vans to take visitors from one level to the next. An elevator that takes a full 3 minutes to reach the suspension bridge. Why was this built, you’d ask? Just to land in the Guinness List? To draw in tourists, visitors seeking thrills and excitement? We found many locals when we visited. Thrill-seekers? I took a few steps and that’s enough. Why walk the entire stretch of 700 meters, pray tell?
Glass BridgeNearly 1 Kilometer Suspension Bridge
So there. Two major altitude challenges in one day. The first challenge was justified by the magnificent view of the mountain range. As for the glass-bottomed bridge, we must be insane to even consider coming here. 🤣
I’m home now. The fond memories of a recent trip still make me smile with gratitude. Happy Hours 24/7 for 3 weeks with my Nieto and Nieta. Obviously I am not yet done writing and posting (on FB and IG) about the trip, especially the last leg in Provence and in Paris. But that is not to say we didn’t enjoy Amsterdam, Brussels and Bruges. Each of the cities visited holds fond memories of the sights and experiences. Forever etched in our memories that even a croissant can easily evoke happy thoughts!
Our first croissant in Joordan, Amsterdam.
Those 3 weeks taught these young adults how to craft their travel itinerary, book walking tours, shop for online museum admissions, register for concerts and cluster/sequence our travel activities. I know this entailed some research including where to find accommodations and timing our train schedules. But way over this trip planning, the young adults learned how to use a laundromat, hand wash some items, press clothes and dealing with hotel front desks for a few demands. Google map has made navigating the areas a cinch, and Uber for transport and food deliveries made life much easier.
A Laundromat Experience
We didn’t scrimp on our meals. Enjoyed our Dutch, Belgian, Provençal and French meals. Even our beers! We spent on food whatever we saved on laundry expenses. I refused to pay €10 for each pair of pants that needed washing. The laundromat was our best friend, at only €6 for wash and €2 for a quick spin/drying per batch. In Provence, we used the hotel’s laundry services for only €15 each machine. Except in Amsterdam and Bruges, we skipped the €18 breakfasts and instead bought our breakfasts off supermarkets (fruits, salads and wraps) and boulangeries. Those fresh pears, peaches, strawberries and white asparagus gave me “highs” and started off my days. Nieto and Nieta ate more veggies (salads) too on this trip. Swell 💕
A new Instagram account (Jolli.belly) chronicled our dining adventures.
We had a good run. We missed out on a few spots and activities for lack of time or because we didn’t want to exhaust ourselves crazy (we’re on holiday!) but we enjoyed good weather even if the temps rose in Provence. We only encountered 2 “mishaps” but nothing that can’t be remedied. We just ended up feeling very annoyed but a good meal quickly took care of that. There were many pleasant surprises and we are very thankful for all these blessings. We prayed before stepping out of our hotel or apartments and expressed our gratitude every so often. In my heart, I know a good habit was reinforced and our faiths were fortified. “Thank You, Lord”was and is our mantra. 🙏
Who grows tired of Paris? There’s always something else to discover, to explore, to enjoy in this city. I think it’s my 7th time around Paris but this is my 1st time stepping into Eglise Saint Sulpice. It’s the 2nd largest church in Paris next to the Notre Dame Cathedral, but I suspect it became more popular because of the Da Vinci Code, a bestseller by Dan Brown turned into a movie topbilled by Tom Hanks. You remember the book? Or the blockbuster movie? I’m not sure if they still run “Da Vinci Code” tours 20 years after, but it sure was a popular thing to do then. And quite naturally, the tours started with a visit here, notwithstanding that the film company was never allowed to film here. The movie’s starting scene was actually shot in a Hollywood studio. All because Dan Brown sparked controversy with his claims that the Church insists aren’t founded on history and the bible truth.
Eglise Saint Sulpice in the Latin QuarterOn our way to Luxembourg Gardens, we stopped here for lunch. Our last lunch in Paris and on this trip. 🥲
Church visit done; lunch at Cafe Tournon. This being our last full day in Paris, we decided on a proper French lunch. I think we chose well and got lucky with a very accommodating crew. We likewise decided to separate so the young adults can meet up with friends while grandma goes to her favorite chapel. That means the hip Cafe Kitsune for the young ones and the Chapel of Our Lady of the Miraculous Medal at Rue du Bac for Mamu.
Lunch at Cafe TournonMeet-ups with Childhood Friends
Every time I visit Paris, I always try to come here. But it was closed when I got there and would reopen at 2:30 pm yet. There was a good hour to waste. I did remember there was a nearby Bon Marché Store with a marvellous gourmet food section. Next block; just across the street. I remember some random food finds here which I brought home for friends and family. Like always, good food excites me as it did while I navigated around the shelves and food sections in Bon Marche’s gourmet area. Some pâté here, fresh strawberries and peaches there, big, fat white asparagus about to go off season, some maché and rocket for my salad, and an assortment of bread and pastries. A happy place! Before I knew it, it was past 2:30 pmso I promptly paid and headed back to the chapel. Before long, I was at the metro station and got off at Liege near Rue du Moscou. Looked around the apartment, packed my bags for next day’s departure, prepared some salad and ate while staring out the window. I can bring these memories home so I want to remember them well. La vie est belle!
Chapel of Miraculous Medal at Rue du BacWe are only 3 but nieto deserves 2 servings. View from our Apartment Window
In our last few days in Paris, we hit 2 more museums. First off, Musée de l’Orangerie in the Jardin des Tuileries.Housed in an iconic edifice on the western section of the Tuileries garden, this was our chance to view Monet’s famous eight Water Lilies mural. Monet painted water lilies for well over 30 years till his death at 86. His lily pond in Giverny where he lived provided much inspiration resulting in over 300 artworks. Some in large format like the egg-shaped hall where a colossal mural greets you. For the first time since we landed in Europe, I wanted to shh shhh the crowds milling around the murals. It would have been nice to sit in the center of that hall to appreciate these huge works of Monet. Alas, it was noisy, and too crowded.
The 8 panels were Monet’s gift to the State, to be displayed based on his very specific conditions and design. Done just a few years before his death, but finally displayed only after he passed on. These panels are significant considering that Monet suffered from failing vision years before he died, so much so that he even had to label the colors of his paint tubes. He also painted other subjects, but still mostly from his gardens in Giverny. After all, the artist indulged in gardening as a favorite pastime and he loved painting outdoors.
By the time we moved to Musée d’Orsay, we were growing tired and frankly, overwhelmed. Too much stimulation from the first museum visit, the walks under the sun, crossing the Seine and struggling with the heat. It didn’t help that we were made to line up outside without shade even though our ticket specified a time for the visit. When we got in, we passed most everyone and decided to start on the upper floors first. Besides, the Van Gogh pieces were there.
Next, we went in search of Rodin. I earlier intended to bring them to Musée Rodin but there wasn’t enough time. Wow, Musée d’ Orsay is really huge. Some actually prefer it to the Louvre and I don’t blame them. I do like Orsay too especially since it has a really nice cafe inside and the ex-train station building is kind of a romantic setting for this museum. Not to forget, it also has a lot of nooks and quiet corners with stone benches where one can sit it out and rest! We called it a day after 2 hours. Guess we didn’t do justice to these museum visits. But our energy levels are really low now, having been “on the go” the last 3 weeks. I haven’t really counted but I suspect we’ve done at least 15 museums on this trip. The major art galleries should be around 7 or 8. Wow. We need to sit it out in the park now or head back to our apartment for a quick pre-sleep sleep. Or maybe we should hit the bar to celebrate 🥂 🤣
The Cafe inside the museum. Look at that huge clock, often a feature of train terminals.
My first time in Montmartre was unplanned. I was in a conference in London in 2003 and a friend invited me to stay with her while exhausting the remaining lease on her daughter’s flat in Paris. I said yes, and so did another friend who trained in from Zurich. The 3 of us spent dinner nights between Montmartre and Saint Germain des Pres and had an immensely wonderful time. In 2017, I brought my nieta here but only for a night. It was a chilly night so the artists left the square in Place Du Tertre earlier. The “painters’ neighborhood” was without painters that night it threatened to snow. So here we are, back again, with all the sunshine we need on this spring-soon transforming into summer Paris day.
Last time we had a meal in La Bonne Franquette. This time at Le Consulat. Coffee and Dessert at La Maison Rose or the Pink House in Montmartre.The “painters’ neighborhood” in Place Du Tertre.
Montmartre has many cafes and bistros. If you’ve been watching Amelie and Emily in Paris, the winding streets and hilly paths here would seem familiar to you. Le Consulat and La Bonne Franquette are both hangouts of many artists centuries ago, like Van Gogh, Cezanne, Monet, Renoir, Picasso, to name a few. Some have even set up studios here. And actually lived here, like Van Gogh and Dalí. In one corner, you’d find Espace Dalíwhere you’d find 300 of his works from a private collection of Beniamino Levi. Levi was one of Salvador Dali’s art collectors and art dealers.He intended to make popular then Dali’s sculptures and engravings aside from his paintings. This gallery is worth a visit if you’re a Dalí fan.
Espace Dali in Montmartre From Le Consulat where we had lunch, it was a short walk to the Pink House in one direction and the Espace Dali in the opposite direction.
So next time you visit SACRE COEUR Basilica, take a few more steps towards Place Du Tertre (if you’re a Filipino, it’s easy to remember this place that bears a name that sounds like one ex-Prez) to find centuries-old bistros frequented by many artists, poets and novelists. The coffee scene in the Saint Germain des Pres may be great but Montmartre has a number of good cafes too. And for tourists, the souvenir shops here may be more reasonably-priced, methinks.
Montmartre teeming with locals and tourists! Off Abbesses Metro Station. (I prefer getting off at Anvers)
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